Sun-mar Centrex 3000ne User manual

Serial

________________

“CENTREX 3000 FAMILY”

OWNER’S MANUAL

PO-MANU0-0826XX

February 2009

Rev D4

Product Info: (905) 635-1530 Fax: (905) 332-1315 Tech. Service: (888) 341-0782

E-mail: compost@sun-mar.com http://www.sun-mar.com

600 Main St 5370 South Service Rd.

Tonawanda NY Burlington, ON

14150-0888 USA L7L 5L1 CANADA

RATED CAPACITY

Weekend & Vacation Use

(Cottage Use)

8 Adults or families of 10 or

9 Adults or families of 11

Residential & Continuous Use

5 Adults or a family of 7 or

6 Adults or families of 8

Standard 41

Certified for liquid

containment, odors, and

solid end products in cottage use

Certified to NSF/ANSI Standard 41

CENTREX 3000

CENTREX 3000 AC/DC

CENTREX 3000 NE

- 1 -- 28 -

OWNER’S MANUAL

CONTENTS

Chapter

Introduction

Chapter

Electrical

Specifications

Centrex

3000

3000NE

3000AC/DC

Maximum Amps 3.6 N/A 3.6

Fan Watts 35Watts N/A 35Watts/2.4Watts

Heater Watts 360 N/A 360

Average Power Use 215 N/A 215

(heater on 1/2 time)

How your composting

toilet Works

How Composting Works

The Composting Chamber

Compost Finishing Drawer

Evaporation Chamber

Winter Use

CENTREX 3000 Family Part

Numbers

Wiring Diagram

CENTREX 3000 Family Explosion

Drawing

Inspection

Check for Damage

Check for Parts and Functionality

Placement of unit

Installation

CENTREX 3000 Rough in

Dimensions

Included in your kit

Installing the 1 (500ml) Pint

Low-Flush Toilet

Installation Considerations for

the Waste Pipe

The 3” (75mm) Waste Inlet

The Compost Collection Bin

Drain Installation

Handling Effluent

Vent Pipe Location

Adjusting the Fan Gate

Vent Pipe Installation

Leading the Vent through the roof

The Diffusor

Electrical Considerations

12 Volt Fan Installation

Start Up and Use

Initial System Start Up

Annual Start Up

Periodic Check Up

Ongoing Maintenance

2-5

7-12

13-15

Compost

Troubleshooting

Requirements of an Aerobic

Compost

Compost Too Wet

Compost Too Dry

Waste not Breaking Down

Lumps

Drum Too Full

Flies

Mechanical

Troubleshooting

Urine Odor In Washroom

Occasional Urine Odor Outside

Sewage Odor when drum turns

Fan Noisy

Fan Not Working

Liquid Buildup/

Lack of Evaporation

Overflowing Liquid

Heating System Not Working

Liquid In Finishing Drawer

Drum Will Not Stay Vertical

Drum Will Not Turn

Drum Door Not Opening/

Closing

Waste Not Exiting Waste Pipe

Composting

Accessories

Basic Maintenance

Warranty Information

Electrical Specifications

Getting Ready for

Winter

16-19

20-24

- 2 -

Introduction

HOW YOUR COMPOSTING TOILET WORKS

Composting is a natural recycling process where human

waste and toilet paper are broken down by microbes

into minerals and converted back to earth. Heat, oxy-

gen, organic material and moisture are needed to trans-

form this waste into good fertilizing soil, perfect for your

flower beds.

Oxygen is provided by the ventilation system, and by

tumbling of the composting drum. Additional organic

material is introduced by adding“Compost Sure Blue”

(or 100% shavings). The waste entering the toilet is

approximately 90% water content. Any excess liquid

which is not absorbed will collect on the floor of the unit

(evaporation chamber) where it may be evaporated into

water vapor and carried back to the atmosphere

through the venting system. The remaining waste mate-

rial is transformed into an inoffensive earth-like sub-

stance.

The Composting Chamber

The composting chamber is in the form of a Bio-drum

which holds the natural compost heat, provides the nec-

essary mass to maintain a good compost, and is rotat-

ed by turning the handle to achieve perfect mixing and

aeration.

During mixing, the input door at the top left will remain

closed. When the drum returns to the top dead centre

position ready to receive more waste, the input door will

remain open.

A drum stopper behind the doghouse on the right side

of the unit automatically holds the Bio-drum in a top

dead center position so that it is always positioned to

receive new material.

Compost is extracted from the drum by continuously

feeding into the collection bin (doghouse) whenever the

drum is rotated.

To ensure that the compost remains moist, but does not

get too wet (between 40 and 60% moisture content is

ideal), any excess liquid which the compost cannot

absorb drains through the screen in the bottom of the

drum directly onto an evaporating tray beneath the

screen, and from there, overflows into the larger evap-

orating chamber. The evaporating tray can be removed

periodically to remove peat moss debris that has accu-

mulated.

Compost Collection Drawers

and Chamber

The compost collection drawer is at the extreme right

and left of the unit below the composting drum, and just

above the evaporating chamber. The right drawer is

used only if you wish to completely empty the drum.

The collection drawer on the left is merely to provide

access to the evaporation chamber. Compost from the

drum will automatically feed into a collection chamber at

the far right end of the unit.

Evaporating Chamber

The third chamber is the floor of the Sun-Mar “CENTREX

3000” which forms the evaporation chamber from

where excess liquids are evaporated. You will always

see liquid in this area.

- 27 -

The key to the success of the “CENTREX 3000 ” lies in it’s three chamber design. Each of the three chambers; com-

posting, compost finishing, and evaporation have their own independent environments for optimum efficiency.

SUN-MAR Corp. warrants the original purchaser that this toilet is free from defects in material and

workmanship under normal house or cottage use. SUN-MAR Corp. will furnish new parts for any

part that fails within three years or five years on the fibreglass tank, provided that our inspection

shows that such failure is due to defective material or workmanship. Any part supplied by us to

replace another part is warranted for the balance of the original warranty period.

This warranty does not cover:

1. Damage resulting from neglect, abuse, accident or alteration; or damage caused by fire, flood,

acts of God or any other casualty.

2. Parts and accessories not sold or manufactured by SUN-MAR Corp. or any damage resulting

from the use of such items.

3. Damage or failure resulting from failure of the purchaser to follow normal operating proce-

dure outlined in the Owner’s Manual or in any other printed instructions.

4. Labor and services charges incurred in the removal and replacement of any parts found

defective under the terms of this warranty.

5. All returns to the factory must by made freight prepaid. All shipments from the factory are

made F.O.B. Burlington.

This warranty is in lieu of all other warranties expressed or implied, and no person is authorized

to enlarge our warranty responsibility, which is limited to the terms of this certificate. The

Company reserves the right to change, improve or modify its products without obligation to install

these improvements on equipment previously manufactured.

WARRANTY

- 26 - - 3 -

Winter Use

Because "Sun-Mar" units are made largely of fiberglass

and high grade stainless steel, freezing temperatures

will not damage the composting unit. Composting action

decreases as the temperature drops, so for continuous

use, the composting unit should be kept constantly at or

above 55-60 degrees F (13-15 C). All exposed vent

stack should be insulated (right up to 2" or 5cm below

the diffusor) to minimize the condensation in the pipe

and avoid ice blockages. Drain pipe should be insulat-

ed or, in extreme temperatures, heat tape used to pre-

vent ice blockages.

In extreme temperatures, an additional source of heat

will also be required.

If the compost is frozen in the drum, the unit may be

used periodically as a "holding tank", until the compost

warms up and the microbes emerge from dormancy.

Space should be made in the drum prior to freezing to

accommodate winter use. The drum should NOT be

rotated when the compost is frozen.

Make sure that the composting unit is protected from

snow and ice accumulation to ensure that moisture

doesn't get into the heater base. It is a good idea to

put a tarp over the composting unit to protect it from

snow.

In Electric or AC/DC units, air is pulled through intake

holes at the rear of the unit; over the evaporating

chamber, and up the 2” (50mm) vent stack which exits

from the front of the composting unit when AC power is

being used.

When using the NE or AC/DC units and AC power is

unavailable, natural draught caused by the chimney

effect combined with a 12 volt fan draws air into the unit

and up the 4” (100mm)vent stack.

In Electric or AC/DC units using the AC mode, the evap-

oration process is further assisted by a thermostatical-

ly controlled heating element in a separate sealed com-

partment under the evaporating chamber. This heater

is largely on when there is liquid in the evaporating

chamber, and largely off when the chamber is dry. The

heating system maintains warmth in the evaporating

chamber, and the indirect warmth assists the compost-

ing process, without the compost drying out. An safety

drain exits from the left side of the composter which

drains off any excess liquid to a cess pool, recycling

bed, old septic bed or other approved facility.

Basic

Maintenance

Instructions

Sealand toilet and 'Centrex 3000 Family' Central Units

The toilet is porcelain and should be cleaned with 'Compost Quick' or Baking Soda can be used diluted in

hot water.

Three

times

week

weekly

maintenance

(every

second

day

when

use):

Turn drum to reveal waste inlet hole through access port and add Compost Sure Blue at the rate of @ 1

cupful (250ml) per person per day.

Rotate handle clockwise to mix contents of Bio-drum and give 10 complete revolutions of the drum - (60

rotations of the handle). Ensure that the drum door opening is in the vertical position at the end after

hearing the 'click' of the catch.

Spray 'Compost Quick' into the drum before and after mixing - also once a week in base of unit and fin-

ishing tray.

Check

compost

volume

and

condition

Bio-ddrum

and:

If the waste in the Bio-drum is too wet add wood shavings to improve aeration.

If composting is too slow add one scoop of Microbe Mix every second week, and ensure that the drum is

not more than 1/2 full. If it is, follow the instructions for the emptying cycle.

Monthly

maintenance

and

emptying

cycle:

Rake out evaporation chamber with rake provided. The black evaporating tray should be removed, solid

matter tipped into the finishing tray and then replaced beneath the drum screen.

Empty out the collection chamber when full so it is ready to receive fresh material.

Clean the drum screen. Remove the finishing drawer, the drum screen is to the left of the drawer on the

bottom of the drum. Spray the drum screen with Compost Quick and let sit for 15 minutes (this will help

to loosen the debris if the screen is not too encrusted). Scrub the screen vigorously with the wire brush.

If brushing the screen does not clear it and liquid is still not draining through the screen, use a screw-

driver or nail to puncture each hole in the drum screen.

Attention:

The

composting

unit

must

remain

plugged

electrical

outlet

continuously

function

odorlessly.

The

AC/DC

units

should

have

both

fans

running

while

used

electric

mode

prevent

recircu-

lation

between

vent

stacks.

you

will

away

from

the

residence

where

the

composting

unit

installed

for

longer

than

three

days,

the

power

may

disconnected

while

the

composting

unit

lays

dormant.

- 4 - - 25 -

CENTREX 3000 FAMILY PART NUMBERS & DESCRIPTIONS

# PART DESCRIPTION # PART DESCRIPTION

1 AO-DRUMD-0481XX Centrex 3000 Access Door 22 PF-TNAK3-0831XX Centrex 3000 Tank

2 AO-FAN_A-0315KY Fan (Electric and AC/DC) 23 PP-DOBBO-0000XX Collection Bin Bottom

3 AO-FAN_A-0315KY Fan Assembly Housin (Electric and AC/DC ) 24 PP-SCRE0-0580XX Drum Locker Thumb Screw

4 AO-FAN_A-0315KY Plastic Fan Motor Cover (Electric and AC/DC) 25 PF-LOCK3-0836XX Drum Locker

5 PP-DRUMD-0846XX Centrex 3000 Drum Door 26 PP-BEARS-0787CX Drum Bearing Strip

6 Centrex 3000 Bearing Plate 27 PP-DOGTO-0000XX Collection Bin Top

7 PM-ROLLP0-0216XX Roll Pin 28 PP-INTAV-0797XX 3” (75mm) Air Intake

8 AO-SMALL-0440XX Nylon Drive Gear 29 PP-DRUM0-0837XX Centrex 3000 Drum

9 AO-SHAFA-0853XX Centrex 3000 Shaft Assembly 30 PM-DRUMS-0194XX Drum Screen

10 AP-DRAI0-0306XX 1” (25mm)Drain Assembly 31 PP-DRUMD-0846XX Centrex 3000 Drum Door

11 PP-GASK0-0188BX Rubber U Channel 32 AO-HAND0-0307BX Handle

12 PF-EVAPT-0789XX Evaporation Tray 33 PP-WASH0-0274XX Washer Pastic CSK

13 PM-ALUMS-0811XX Aluminum Sheet (Electric and AC/DC) 34 PM-SCREW-0251XX Screw #8 X 5/8" SS

14 PF-DRAW3-0746CX Centrex 3000 Drawer 35 PM-SCREW-0554XX Set Screw

15 PP-INSU0--187XX Insulation(Electric and AC/DC) 36 PF-TOPC3-0832CX Centrex 3000 AC/DC Top

16 AO-THER-0310GX Thermostat (Electric and AC/DC) 36 PF-TOPC3-0832XX Top Centrex 3000

17 PP-GASK0-0188BX Rubber U Channel 36 PF-TOPC3-0833XX Centrex 3000 NE Top

18 PF-DRAW3-0746CX Centrex 3000 Drawer 37 PM-ROLLP-0216XX Roll Pin

19 PO-CORD0-0181XX Power Cord 38 AO-PIPEP-0305XX 4” (100ml) Vent Inlet (AC/DC & NE)

20 PF-HEAT3-0833XX Centrex 3000 Heating Tray 39 PP-INLEP-0207CX Centrex Waste Inlet

21 AO-HEATE-0311XX Centrex 3000 Heating Element (Electric and AC/DC)

ACCESSORY ITEMS FOR COMPOSTING

SUN-MAR has developed a number of composting accessory items over the years in response to frequent requests

from users. These items may serve to improve composting speeds under some circumstances.

Name Description Container Price*

“Compost Quick” Solution containing a mixture of

enzymes designed to facilitate bac-

terial activity. Also useful as a clean-

er.

16 oz. (454 gm) spray

$15.50

“Microbe Mix” Special selected dried bacteria to

decompose waste also includes

dried enzymes.

16 oz, (454 gm) Jar

$17.00

$15.00

Bulking material containing 100%

chopped hemp stalk to provide

moisture retention, porosity, and

free air space within the compost.

30 litre (7.9USG) /bag

“Compost Sure

Blue”

Prices do not include freight -

Please call for current freight charges before ordering or on-line at www.sun-mar.com

Prices subject to change.

Note:

If the peat moss you are using is powdery and fine, it will result in poor porosity and an excessively wet, oxygen deficient com-

post. You should change or modify your bulking material. This situation is most likely to happen with central units which are

exposed to a lot of flushing liquid. Modify by adding 100% wood shavings, or use “Compost Sure Blue” for optimum results.

- 5 -- 24 -

1. Drill out set screw and use tap to re-

thread

hole.

2. Replace with Screw #10-32x 1 1/4" Hex

Socket Stainless Steel set.

3. If unavailable, call Sun-Mar for a replace-

ment. Serial number of the Centrex 3000

will be required.

Have your serial number ready and call Sun-

Mar for a replacement Small Gear Kit.

Have your serial number ready.

If the drum has fallen, contact Sun-Mar imme-

diately. We will make sure your problem is

fixed quickly.

See Section on “Compost Troubleshooting-

Drum Too Full”

Drum Hinges have compost caked on them.

Spray with Compost Quick and clean with wire

brush.

Call Sun-Mar to obtain a replacement drum

hinge.

Obtain a Drum Door Replacement Kit from

Sun-Mar. Be sure to specify serial number

and/or year of model for proper part.

1. Ensure piping installation remains as per

“Installation Instructions” (See earlier sec-

tion), and modify if necessary.

2. Follow “Periodic Check Up” recommenda-

tions and options.

3. If still blocked, install clear-out port as

per “Instructions” (See earlier section)

and clear with snake.

Keep composting drum from becom-

ing overloaded. This puts undue

strain on the nylon gear.

Drum should never be more than

1/2-2/3 full.

EXPLOSION DRAWING OF COMPOSTING UNIT

Symptom Cause Remedial Action Prevention

Drum Will

Not Turn

Drum Door

Not

Opening/

Closing

Waste Not

Exiting

Waste Pipe

or Gas

Bubbles at

Toilet

Set screw securing

handle to shaft has

broken

Steel pin securing

gear wheel to shaft

has broken

Drum fallen from

bearings.

Drum too full

Hinges Stuck

Hinge(s) broken

Drum Door Cut

improperly

Waste pipe blocked

- 23 -- 6 -

Chapter 1

Inspection

This chapter describes how to inspect your new Centrex 3000 prior to installation for damage and make

sure you have received all of the parts.

Check for

Damage

Check Carton

Contents

and

Familiarize

Yourself with

the

Centrex 3000

Placement of

Unit

i) If there is any visible damage to the carton-

the contents of carton MUST be inspected before signing bill of lading. Damaged units

should be refused. Call Sun-Mar immediately.

ii) Before signing the shipping papers and dismissing the driver.-

ensure that the carton contents have been inspected.

iii) If the shipper has left-

Report the damage immediately to the transport company and call Sun-Mar.

iv) Soon after delivery, remove the Centrex 3000 carefully

from the carton-

If there is hidden damage, or for any service Questions, contact Sun-Mar to determine

the best course of action.

Check that the carton contains the vent stack (pipe, fittings, roof flashing and diffusor);

“Compost Sure”, rake, drain hose and fittings, etc. Notify Sun-Mar if you are missing anything.

i) Turn the drum handle clockwise to rotate the Bio-Drum for mixing and aeration. (The drum

rotates counter-clockwise and the drum door closes). TThhiiss

iiss

hhooww

yyoouu

wwiillll

rroottaattee

tthhee

ddrruumm..

ii) Lift and remove the access door and rotate the drum until the drum opening is opposite

the access door for adding “Compost Sure Blue”. TThhiiss

iiss

hhooww

yyoouu

wwiillll

aadddd

““CCoommppoosstt

SSuurree

BBlluuee””ppeeaatt

mmoossss

mmiixxttuurree

ttoo

tthhee

ddrruumm

iii) Plug the unit’s electrical cord into a standard three-prong electrical outlet, and feel the air

movement from the vent outlet at the top left of the unit to ensure the vent system is

working properly.

v) Pull out the compost finishing drawers at the bottom left and right of the unit.

vi) After the unit has been plugged in for ten minutes(Electric and AC/DC units) , place a hand

on the floor of the evaporating chamber (the inside floor of the unit) to check it is warm

to the touch, and that the heater is working properly.

vii) Affix the “WARNING/CLEANING” sticker to the underside of the toilet seat cover, and check

that another is on the access port of the composting unit.

The unit should be installed so that the base is protected from weather. The rubber “u” chan-

nel at the bottom of the unit is well-sealed with silicone, but if the unit is sitting in water, has

snow melting against it, or rain pouring on it, this may eventually wear through and short out

the heating element. Install your unit with a protective cover of some kind around this area,

and do not install the unit in a pit where water can accumulate around it.

Symptom Cause Remedial Action Prevention

Heating

System Not

Working

(Electric &

AC/DC)

Liquid in

Finishing

Drawer

Drum Will

Not Stay

Vertical

Test to determine

whether failure has

occurred

Thermostat Failure

Heating Element

Failure

Drum Screen

Clogged

Unit tilted to one

side

Drum Locker

Broken

Pull drawer out and put your hand in the evapo-

ration chamber (Not in the liquid). If there is no

warmth rising from the floor of the unit, your

heating system is not working. It is most com-

monly the thermostat that has failed. If you

notice a lack of evaporation, but there is still

warmth in the heating chamber, see “Liquid

Buildup” for solutions.

Have your serial number ready and call Sun-Mar

for a replacement. (Detailed instructions are

included with the replacement part)

If the insulation behind the thermostat access

cover is moist or discolored, or heating does not

work after the new thermostat has been connect-

ed, then the heating element has failed.

Have your serial number ready and call Sun-Mar

for a replacement. (Detailed instructions are

included with the replacement part)

Please note: Because this part is not easy to

replace, and because there is far less chance

that you will need this part than a thermostat; we

recommend trying to replace the thermostat first.

Remove the finishing drawer. By reaching

through the opening to the right, you should be

able to access the drum screen. Scrub vigorous-

ly with a wire brush.

Use a 1/4” to 1/2” (6-13mm)wedge piece under

the right side of the unit to drain liquid more eas-

ily towards the overflow drain of the unit.

Have serial number ready and call Sun-Mar for a

replacement part.

A ground fault interrupter circuit is

recommended to protect your

Centrex 3000 AC/DC from power

surges that could cause your heat-

ing system to malfunction.

Your thermostat and fan are the two

constantly moving parts on the unit,

and so are the most likely to fail.

Both are easy to replace.

DO NOT wash the outside of the unit

with a hose or pressure washer.

Install the unit so that ground water

or weather cannot get at the base of

the unit.

When returning the drum to top dead

center position, do not bang against

drum locker with excessive force.

- 22 - - 7 -

Symptom Cause Remedial Action Prevention

Fan Not

Working

Liquid

Buildup/

Lack of

Evaporat-

ion

Overflow-

ing

Liquid

Debris in fan or

Mechanical Failure.

Increased usage.

Failure of heating

system

(Electric & AC/DC)

Mineral salts may

have accumulated in

the evaporation

chamber over a few

years, reducing

evaporation rates.

Overflow drain not

hooked up

Unit tipped forward

Drains Blocked

Have your serial number ready and call Sun-Mar.

The amount of liquid varies substantially between

installations. The overflow drain needs to be

installed on all Centrex 3000 AC/DC with low-flush

toilets.

Check “heating not working

To get rid of these, fill the evaporation chamber

with very hot water and 1/3 bottle of “Compost

Quick” enzyme liquid. Leave overnight. Drain all

Liquid through the overflow drain by tipping the

unit up (make sure overflow is hooked up first)

Connect overflow safety drain (See also increased

usage above) Check and ensure that the unit is

level or tilting slightly towards the left by placing

a 1/4” - 1/2” (6-12mm) shim piece under the

right side of the unit.

1. Rake peat moss away from left two corners

of Centrex 3000 These are the

“buildup” areas. If drains are still clogged,

proceed to step 3.

2. Check drain line for kinks, blockages or

upward bends. Remove and flush if blockages

present, unkink if bent and ensure that the

drain pipe is sloping downward. If your

drain pipe is in order, proceed to step 3.

3. Use a wire to poke peat moss out of the drain

assembly at the back. You will notice if this

is clogged because you will see a brown spot

through the opaque assembly. (Only peat

would make it through the drum screen). If

there is no peat clog, or the problems contin-

ue, backwash the unit quickly with a hose by

applying the nozzle to one of the drain

assemblies and turning it on and off very

quickly. If the bottom of the unit is full of

liquid, you may wish to remove some prior to

back-washing. A shop-vac works well.

The fan is a continuously moving

part which will eventually have to be

changed. Do Not turn on and off

daily.

Install the overflow drain.

Rake evaporating chamber vigor-

ously at spring startups for cottage

use, and once every other month

for residential use.

1. A clogged drain is not very likely

to happen if you rake your

evaporating chamber 1-2 times a

season (cottage use) and 3-4

times for continuous use.

2. Use premium 1” hose for the

drain line. A good hose will be

less likely to kink. Use elbows or

fittings around bends to prevent

kinks.

3. Use Compost Sure as your bulk-

ing material.

Chapter 2

Installation

ROUGH IN DIMENSIONS

- 8 - - 21 -

Occasional

Urine Odor

Outside

Strong

Sewage

Odor

Present

when drum

turns

Fan Noisy

1. Vent stack not

installed even

with peak of roof.

2. If vent stack is

installed above

roofline, natural

obstructions,

such as tall

trees, being

located in a

valley or close to

a hill may be

causing down-

draft.

Compost is

anaerobic

Fan damaged in

shipping, or bear-

ings are beginning

to wear if it is rat-

tling.

(Electric & AC/DC)

Fan vibrations res-

onating in vent pipe

(12 Volt Fan)

NE & AC/DC)

1. Check that the vent is installed at least even

with the peak of the roof. If not, extend the

vent. Guide wires may be necessary.

2. Add lime to the evaporation chamber - as

much as you think necessary. You will have

to rake more often if you do this. You can

also add lime to the compost if desired, but

no more than 1/2 cup (250ml) per week as

it may upset the PH balance in larger

amounts.

3. Sun-Mar has a filter box available which will

filter the ammonia out of the vented air in a

downdraft situation. Call Sun-Mar for details.

Begin following: “Compost Troubleshooting” sug-

gestions.

1. If it is rattling, it may need to be cleaned or

the bearings are worn and the fan needs to

be replaced.

2. A hum is the normal sound the fan will make.

If you are in a very quiet setting it will be

more noticeable. If this is the case, consider

purchasing a fan speed control so that the

fan may be turned down when the noise

bothers you.

3. If it is a vibration noise, you may

need to tie down the top of the

stack with guide wires and bracket

the pipe that runs up the side of

the structure.

Use pipe clamps to secure vent pipe or install

fan with rubberized coupling to help absorb

vibrations.

Downdraft is dependent on wind

direction, as well as natural obstruc-

tions, etc.

Initially, install the vent equal with

the peak of the roof. If symptoms

occur, add lime or a filter box.

Follow “Ongoing Maintenance” and

use proper bulking material.

Clean the fan with a small brush

and/or compressed air nozzle once

every 2-3 years in cottage use, or

once a year residentially. To do this,

remove the fan assembly by taking

off the snap cap covers and

unscrewing the screws which hold it

in.

The entire assembly will then simply

slide out. This will prevent wear and

lengthen the life of your fan.

Included

In Your Kit

Installing the

“1 Pint” Low

Flush Toilet

1- Owners Manual 1- 1 1/2” (38mm)Roof Flashing (Electric & AC/DC)

1- Warranty Card 1- 4” (100mm)Roof Flashing (NE & AC/DC)

1- Evaporation Tray 6- 2” x 30” (50x760mm)PVC Pipe (Electric & AC/DC)

1- 8’ 4” (254cm)Drain Pipe 2- Compost Sure Blue

1- Rake 1- 4” Diffusor (100mm)(Electric & AC/DC)

1- 3” (75mm)Centrex 2000 Inlet 1- 6” (150mm) Diffusor (NE & AC/DC)

5- 4” x30” (100x 700mm)PVC Pipe (NE & AC/DC) 1- Centrex 3000 Hardware Kit

1- 12 Volt 2.4 Watt Fan (NE & AC/DC) 1- Centrex NE Hardware Kit (NE & AC/DC)

1. Make sure the center of the floor flange is at least 11 inches

(280mm) from the back wall.

2. When Installing a new floor flange, make certain that the toilet

mounting bolts align properly with Sealand Traveler toilet mount-

ing pattern.

3. Secure flange to floor using flat head screws through counter-

sunk holes in flange. Insert bolts into slotted holes in flange

(Fig. A)

4. If toilet is being installed in a shower stall, apply a 1/4”(6mm) thick

by 3/4”(19mm) wide bead of glazing compound around the

circumference of the floor flange (Fig B).

5. Position floor seal by pressing the floor bolts up through the

holes in the seal.

6. Set toilet in place with bolts protruding up through mounting holes

in base (Fig C).

7. Install washers and hex nuts provided with toilet. Tighten nuts

down equally with standard 7/17” (12mm) open end wrench.

Remove excess Glazing compound from around base.

8. Connect water supply line to water valve (1/2” or 13mm MPT) inlet

using appropriate fittings (Fig D)

9. Turn on water supply and flush toilet to test for leaks.

10. Attach pedestal and pedal covers to toilet base. See instructions

below.

Symptom Cause Remedial Action Prevention

- 20 - - 9 -

Symptom Cause Remedial Action Prevention

Urine Odor

Washroom

Horizontal runs or

downward slopes on

pipe are causing

condensate to block

pipe.

Fan has failed

(Electric or AC/DC)

12 volt Fan has

failed, or is not run-

ning (AC/DC & NE)

Device other than

Sun-Mar diffusor is

installed on top of

the vent stack

Room where unit is

located is airtight.

Vent stack has too

many bends and/or

horizontal lengths.

Re-install the vent so there are no longer any low

points where condensate can collect. If re-instal-

lation is not possible, drill a small hole in the bot-

tom of the low point (preferable outdoors) to

allow condensate to drain. (Note: watch for icing

in winter at this hole.)

Have your serial number ready and call Sun-Mar

for a replacement. Instructions are included with

the replacement fan.

Remove and replace fan. Fan should be on when

installed. When it is turned off it forms an

obstruction.

Wind turbines or vent caps may be discouraging

air movement. If so, replace with a Sun-Mar dif-

fusor.

1. Hold a lighter up to the air intake holes on the

back of the unit. Air should be drawn into the

holes. If air is not easily pulled in, check venting

for too many bends or horizontal lengths and/or

provide more ventilation to the room.

2. Install fresh air intakes on any competing

appliances.

1. Re-install the vent stack to reduce the number

of bends/eliminate horizontal lengths.

2. If the vent stack cannot be further straight-

ened, remove the fan assembly and reduce the

amount of recirculating air by covering up the

area between the fan exhaust and the 90 degree

vent intake elbow with duct tape or similar.

Install wall brackets on vent pipe to

prevent settling. DO NOT install

horizontal runs as liquid will collect

and block ventilation, causing odor.

The fan is a constantly moving part

and has a finite service life.

The fan is a constantly moving part

and has a finite service life.

Wind turbines or vent caps

should not be installed on or,

instead of a Sun-Mar diffusor.

Install your Centrex 3000 in an

area with plenty of ventilation and

watch for competing appliances

such as bathroom fans and wood

stoves.

Install the 2” (50mm) vent with

minimal bends (total bends should

equal no more than 360 degrees)

and NO horizontal or downward

slopes.

4” (100mm)Venting should be

installed completely vertical, if

bends are necessary, use 45

degree elbows, (max. 2) and install

fan.

Installation

Considerat-

ions for the

waste pipe

The 3”

(75mm)

Waste

Inlet

The

Compost

Collection

Chamber

Drain

Installation

When installing the waste piping from the toilet to the composting unit, the following considerations should

be born in mind:-

i) The piping should be either 45 degrees or more to the vertical (if composting unit is directly below

toilet), or at a 2-3 degree angle (1/8”-1/4” or 4-8mm drop per foot maximum) so that the waste

travels with the liquid. Piping

should

not

installed

between

and

degrees

the

composting

unit

distance

from

the

toilet.

ii) Piping should not slope upwards at any point.

iii) Connections should be snug so that waste is not encouraged to “hang up” where pipe meets

connector.

iv) It is recommended that the waste pipe not be longer than 15 feet(4.5m) without installing a clear out

port (a Y fitting with screw on end cap) near the toilet to provide easy access should it ever be

required.

v) Use a soft sealant, such as silicone for the connection of the waste piping to the composting unit so

that the composting unit can be moved for servicing or other reasons should this ever be required.

vi) Insulate piping if unit is to be used during the winter.

For heavy winter use, the composting unit will need to be kept warm by enclosing it, insulating the

enclosure, and providing some heat source. The enclosure must not be airtight since the unit

must be able to draw air in.

The 3” (75mm) waste inlet (supplied with kit) should be installed where the waste pipe feeds into the com-

posting unit. This assembly will allow the waste to flow into the Bio-Drum without interfering with the

drums’ function. If more room is needed in your installation, you can substitute this assembly by con-

structing your own 3” (75mm) waste assembly from the examples shown below.

Line the base of the compost finishing chamber with a large garbage bag. Place the base of thecompost

finishing chamber against the right side of the unit, directly below the drum output, so that compost will

drop into the compost finishing chamber automatically. The top of the compost finishing chamber should

be placed on the bottom half so that it covers the drum output (the end of the drum where the compost

will come out).

The 1” (25mm) Safety drains at the left of the “Centrex 3000”, exit to both the front and back. To con-

nect one of the drains, (whichever is convenient), remove the orange plug, attach the 1”(25mm) hose

(included) and secure with a hose clamp. Ensure there are no kinks or upward bends in the drain hose.

Chapter 5

MECHANICAL TROUBLE SHOOTING

Most problems are prevented through proper maintenance and the use of proper bulking materials in the toilet. If

you do have a problem which may be a mechanical or installation problem, this Trouble Shooting section will help you

solve it. If you still have further questions, contact technical service at Sun-Mar for advice at 1-888-341-0782

Handling

Effluent

Vent Piping

Location

Adjusting

the fan

gate(Electri

c and

AC/DC)

Vent

Piping

Installation

The following are possible options to take care of the liquid:

- Use a container which is emptied periodically (water jug or small

barrel). This ensures a closed loop

system.

- Feed into a lined pit filled with gravel and sand. Such a recycling

bed also ensures a closed loop system.

- Feed into a small cesspit or “french drain”.

-Plumb into an existing septic or holding tank line.

Installation should be in accordance with applicable local regulations.

If running the vent pipe through a wall, it should be done with an upward sloping angle(as shown in the pic-

ture below). There should be NO horizontal or downward sloping sections. Installing the vent pipe with

horizontal or downward sloping sections will result in a urine odor around the composting unit. Below are

some examples of a desireable installation. If the unit will be used in colder weather, all exposed 2” vent

pipes should be insulated to reduce freezing and condensation.

The vent on the right is a 4” (100mm) non-

electric vent.

All others show possible 2” (50mm)

Centrex 3000 (electric) vent configurations.

If you believe that there may be a downdraft outside of the build-

ing, it may be a good idea to remove your fan assembly prior to

installation and set the fan gate to ‘0’ to prevent urine odor in the

bathroom. The fan gate is factory set to ‘3’, which recirculates air

within the unit. If there is a downdraft you may get blow back into

the room where the unit is installed. When setting the fan gate to

‘0’, you may lose some evaporation so it is also wise to hook up

the emergency drain.

Piping and fittings are of standard 2” (50mm) PVC thin wall tubing(central vacuum) and/or 4” (100mm)

PVC thin wall pipe. Additional pipe or fittings can be purchased from a building supply dealer. If you cannot

find them near your location, you can substitute schedule 40 pipe and use a rubber coupling to join this

pipe to the unit.

i) Minimize the number of sharp angles in the 2” (50mm)vent as each reduces vent efficiency. The 4”

(100mm) vent should be installed as near to vertical as possible. It is recommended if it is necessary

to have angles in the 4” (100mm) vent pipe that 45 degree angles are used whenever possible. On

the 4” (100mm) DC stack, bends should be limited to 2 - 45 degree angles. will necessitate the

Symptom Cause Remedial Action Prevention

Flies

Present

-compost too dry

-compost anaerobic

-kitchen/garden

waste added

-foreign material

added

1 .To get rid of flies, you can use any pesticide

that is used on your garden. Pesticides used

for garden use are not anti-bacterial so are

safe to use on your compost. If you prefer not

to use a pesticide in your compost, the unit

should be cleaned out completely and washed

with soapy water to kill any remaining eggs.

Once the unit is washed, it should be rinse

well to remove all traces of soap before

restarting the compost.

If using a pesticide to kill the insects, it maybe

purchased from a local garden center or

hardware store.

2. Natural larvacide that can be used in the com-

post is bacillus thuringiensis israelensis or BT i.

This is a natural aerobic bacteria that is found in

soil. The fly larvae ingest this bacteria.Once BT i

has been ingested by the larvae, it releases a

crystal in the larvae that essentially cuts the lar-

vae up. This does take about 2 weeks to work

since it kills the larvae, not the adult flies. This

can by purchased at stores that sell pond sup-

plies. The product name is Aqua-Bac or there is

another called Mosquito Dunks that is available

to consumers. Either of these products should

be dissolved in water and used as a soak for the

compost. This should be repeated every 2 days

for a week to make sure that all larvae are cov-

ered.

3. The other alternative to using pesticides is to

completely clean the toilet out, wash the inside

with soap and water

IMPORTANT:

Application of a pesticide in a Sun-Mar com-

poster is not a health concern because all Sun-

Mar units are vented. If using pesticides, avoid

spilling on the outer shell of the composter.

1. Keep compost moist. In order to

determine a good level of mois-

ture, shine a flashlight into the

drum. The compost should have

a slight gloss or shine. If it does

not, add warm water to it until it

reaches this consistency. Fungus

gnats tend to be attracted to a

dry compost, due to the fungus

which begins to form on the sur-

face when it dries out. A good,

moist compost will not be attrac-

tive to flies.

2. Do not add topsoil from the

ground, composted matter, or

kitchen scraps to the toilet. Flies

may be present in, or attracted

to these items.

3. If toilet is installed over an old

septic line,make sure that the

lines are well sealed. Insects

find unused lines attractive.

4.See “Compost Remediation” if the

compost smells- anaerobic com-

post will attract flies and drasti-

cally reduce the performance of

your composting unit

5. Use “Compost Sure Blue” or

wood shavings on their own if

unit is to be used every day.

- 19 -- 10 -

installation of a 12 volt fan.

ii) Do not lead the 2” (50mm) vent pipe downward or horizontally at any point. This may lead to the vent

pipe being blocked by condensation which would cause a urine smell in your bathroom.

iii) All connectors in the vent pipe should be sealed. Use

silicone

for

the

connection

the

vent

stack

the

toilet

case

the

composting

unit

has

moved

you

have

access

the

fan. PVC cement

may be used in the rest of the stack installation if desired.

iv) All exposed vent pipe should be insulated with the foam insulation. This is especially important for

winter or residential use.

v) The Sun-Mar 12 Volt fan is fitted inside a 12”(305mm) length of 4” (100mm) vent pipe for easy

installation, should it be needed. It is installed by either cutting out a section of the vent immediately

above the composting unit, or by raising the vent stack off of the composting unit and inserting the fan

section. The fan can be used with a solar panel and 12 volt battery, or by purchasing a 12 volt adapter

from your local hardware store and simply plugging it into the wall.

As shown in the installation, the vent stack should end

about 30” (75cm) above the peak of the roof so that it

is less subject to downdraft. Where the piping is taken

through the roof, the roof flashing provided should be

used to seal the installation. Insert the vent into the bell

of the roof flashing and slide the roof flashing down until

it lays evenly on the roof. Slip the upper edge or the roof

flashing flange under the shingles. Outline the flashing

on the roof. Raise the roof flashing and apply silicone

sealant or roofing tar inside the outline. Slide the flash-

ing back into place and firmly press onto the sealant.

The flashing is properly placed when the top part of the

roof flashing flange is tucked under the shingles and the

lower portion is sealed on top of the shingles so that

water sheds easily. Secure the flashing with corrosion

resistant nails at each corner and along sides. Any exposed nails should be sealed with silicone caulking.

The diffusor provided with the unit is a simple device to

be installed at the top of the vent stack with the larger

pipe protruding above the smaller. To install, simply glue

the diffusor on the topmost section of vent pipe. The dif-

fusor design encourages updraft, and discourages wind

and weather from going down the vent stack. Unlike wind

turbines, diffusors are less likely to freeze up in winter,

and are more effective in calm weather.

A ground fault interrupter (GFI) circuit is recommended to protect your composting unit from electrical prob-

lems. This may be installed directly on the wall socket or at the circuit breaker.

Vent

Piping

Installation

(Cont’d)

Leading

the vent

through the

roof

The

Diffusor

Electrical

Considerat-

ions

(Electric

and AC/DC)

Symptom Cause Remedial Action Prevention

Waste not

Breaking

Down at all

(cont'd’)

Lumps

If many large

lumps have

formed in drum,

you will need to

remove them or

break them up

with the rake

tool. Follow the

prevention col-

umn to ensure

this does not

happen.

Drum Too

Full

Note: The drum

is too full when it

is over 2/3 full,

and the door is

not closing prop-

erly.

Antibiotics being

used for more than

a few weeks on a

continuous basis

may kill bacteria

Compost Too Dry

Over-Rotation of

Drum

Peat moss used as

bulking material with

no wood shavings.

Compost not emp-

tied into finishing

drawer in a timely

fashion.

Kitchen/Garden

Waste added

Empty drum. Rinse out inside of drum, being

careful that liquid does not overflow out of the

drawer opening. Restart compost according to

“Initial System Startups”.

Follow instructions for “Compost Too Dry” above.

And also add 1/2 gallon (2 litres) of peat moss.

Follow “ONGOING TOILET MAINTENANCE”, and

also add 1/2 gallon (2 litres) of wood shavings.

Begin using 100% wood shavings as bulking

material.

1. Remove compost until drum is only half full or

less. Rotate compost thoroughly to aerate,

and add compost accelerants (Compost Quick

and Microbe Mix) if available.

2. If you need to dump more than one drawer of

compost, and you do not already have a suit-

able backyard compost heap, you may try an

open-slatted wooden crate (such as the kind

used to pack age fruits and vegetables). Layer

compost with bulking material and leave crate

outside for around 2 months to finish com-

posting.

When used normally, antibiotics will

only slightly slow compost. Add

Sun-Mar Microbe Mix and/or

Compost Quick during this period to

accelerate compost action.

Urinating elsewhere during this

period will also help minimize the

damage to the compost.

Follow recommendations for check-

ing and adding moisture in “PERI-

ODIC CHECKUP”.

Drum should be turned three times

a week, 6-12 rotations each time;

or before departure for weekend

use.

Use proper bulking material.

When drum is 1/2 full, remove

some compost to the finishing

drawer by rotating the drum back-

wards, to avoid surprise over-filling

of drum. Do NOT let drum get

above 2/3 full. (The drum is 2/3 full

when the level of the compost

reaches 2-3 inches below where

the drum door hangs) This will lead

to lack of aeration, and anaerobic

compost, and the inconvenience of

having to remove more than one

drawer.

Do Not add kitchen or garden

waste.

- 11 -

- 18 -

- 17 -- 12 -

Symptom Cause Remedial Action Prevention

Compost

Too Wet

Your compost

is too wet when

there are

standing pools

of liquid.

Compost will

smell of sewage

and is

anaerobic

Compost

Too Dry

Compost is too

dry when com-

post looks flat

and brown rather

than rich and

black.

Waste not

Breaking

Down at all

If this is the case,

the drum will fill

up quickly

Compost porosity is

poor. Too much

peat moss has been

used as a bulking

material. This is

compacting, pre-

venting liquid from

draining through,

and leaving no free

air space for oxy-

gen.

Drum screen

clogged

Moisture not being

added periodically

or before departure

on cottage units.

Toilet not used for

urination .

Insufficient bulking

material or not

enough peat moss.

Insufficient Microbes

Room Temperature

under 60F/15C

Bleach or other

anti-bacterial

chemic

Compost too dry

For an immediate improvement in porosity add

about 3-4 gallons (4 litres) of wood shavings, of

any kind (except cedar) to the drum.

On an ongoing basis, change bulking material to

Compost Sure Blue or a 100% wood shavings .

Remove the finishing drawer. Scrub screen

(which will be visible with a flashlight on the bot-

tom of the drum) with wire brush. The overflow

drain should be hooked up.

Add 1/2 to 1 gallon(2-4 litres) of hot water to

compost in order to bring it up to appropriate

moisture level.

Peat moss retains moisture. 40-60% moisture

content is ideal for aerobic microbes to thrive.

Add Sun-Mar Microbe Mix.

Install heat source to increase temperature.

Temperature should be kept above 55-60F/15-

16C constantly if toilet will be used on an ongo-

ing basis.

Empty drum. Hose out inside of drum. Restart

compost according to “Initial System Startups”.

Bacteria need moisture to live and move within

the compost. Compost should be quite moist,

40-60% moisture content.

Use Sun-Mar Compost Sure Blue

or 100% wood shavings as a bulk-

ing material.

Use proper bulking mixture

Follow section on moisture in

“PERIODIC CHECKUP”.

Use toilet for urination.

Add correct bulking material.

Be sure to add microbe packet at

startups.

Install unit in warm area. The

warmer the area, the better your

compost will be! If evening temper-

atures fall below the prescribed

temperatures on a residential unit,

consider installing a heat source on

a timer for evenings.

Never add bleach or cleaning chem-

icals.

Add water or flush toilet to moisten

compost.

Every Sun-Mar AC/DC and NE model comes with a 12 Volt Fan for installation in the 4” (100mm) stack.

Its installation is required in the following situations:

-If you are installing both 2” (50mm) and 4” (100mm) vent stacks (prevents downdraft from

the 2” or 50 mm vent)

-If you are in an area where you are subject to downdraft

-If you are using the unit residentially

-If you need to install the vent stack with bends

We include it because many AC/DC owners do install both vent

stacks. It may also be installed later if you wish simply by cut-

ting a section out of your vent and replacing it with the fan.

To install the fan initially, pick a spot on the stack that you can

reach easily. In order to get the best evaporative performance

from the fan, install it near the toilet if possible (remember, the

fan will still not be enough to evaporate all liquids in a non-

electric or DC only environment). Once you have placed it

where you wish, use silicone caulking, or rubberized couplings,

to make the installation airtight. Do not use ABS glue at this

area as you may need to change the fan at a later date.

The 12 Volt Fan may be powered with a battery that is con-

nected to a generator, solar panel, or other alternative energy

system. For use in AC, purchase a 12 Volt to AC Adapter from

any electrical store and snip off the female end - wire the posi-

tive wire to the red wire on the fan, and the negative wire to

the blue wire on the fan. Tie them off with small wire connec-

tors, and plug your AC Adapter into the wall.

The 12 Volt Fan should be continuously running if used, as if it

is not running it will act as a block in the vent stack.

12 Volt Fan

Installation

(AC/DC and

NE)

- 16 - - 13 -

This chapter will deal with problem that may arise with your compost, what is required to make your compost healthy

and how to correct problems if they arise.

Requirements of an Aerobic Compost

In a Sun-Mar, a good compost is predominantly aerobic, which

means that oxygen is available for aerobic bacteria throughout

the Bio-drum. Aerobic bacteria consume waste quickly and

odorlessly to produce carbon dioxide and water vapor and

leave behind a small fraction of the original waste volume in

the form of basic minerals. The end compost is a mix of valu-

able minerals and bulking material that has not decomposed.

To work effectively to break down waste, aerobic bacteria need

oxygen, moisture, available carbon (from the bulking material),

and warmth.

In a Sun-Mar, oxygen is provided by the tumbling of the drum

and the bulking material leaving free air space within the com-

post. Moisture is provided by the waste, and is made available

to aerobic bacteria by the moisture retention properties of the

bulking material. If the compost is too dry, add warm water.

In summary, to keep the compost aerobic, it is important to

rotate the drum, add bulking material, and keep the compost

moist.

Oxygen

Lack of oxygen becomes a problem where:

- Too much moisture eliminates the free air space,

- A lack of bulking material limits free air space,

- Aerobic bacteria use up oxygen in the compost.

Lack of oxygen causes the compost to become increasingly

anaerobic, which means that aerobic bacteria are displaced by

anaerobic bacteria. Anaerobic bacteria work slowly and pro-

duce undesirable ammonia, hydrogen sulphide, and methane.

Consequently, the maintenance of ‘free air’ space by periodi-

cally rotating the drum and adding the right bulking material is

very important in Sun-Mar units. Excessive rotation is not

helpful and can harm the compost by disturbing the bacteria

too much.

Moisture

If there is too much moisture, and the compost is approaching

saturation, oxygen is pushed out and anaerobic activity pre-

dominates. On the other hand, if there is too little moisture,

aerobic activity slows. For this reason, it is important to main-

tain adequate moisture levels (40-60% moisture content is

ideal). Generally, if you shine a flashlight in after mixing, there

should be a slight sheen of moisture on your compost.

Warmth

Too little warmth will cause aerobic activity to slow. Below 55-

60 degrees F., microbes will go dormant and composting will

stop. Composting speeds increase dramatically with temper-

ature.

Characteristics of a Bad Compost

If your compost is over 8 weeks old and it exhibits one or more

of the following characteristics , then an operating change is

indicated.

 Extraction required too often (under 4

weeks)

 Large Lumps present in compost

 Compost muddy or clay-like

 Flies present (this may also be a problem

with foreign matter being added to unit; see

section on flies)

 Compost has strong unpleasant smell of

sewage when drum is turned.

 Toilet paper present in finishing drawer

Troubleshooting

In using this troubleshooting section, you should follow reme-

dial action in the order that they are given, unless you are sure

of the problem. You should see improvement in a week, and

your compost should be back to normal in 2-3 weeks. If it is

not, make sure that “Ongoing Toilet Maintenance” is being fol-

lowed and check the mechanical troubleshooting section.

Although the start up instructions remain the same no matter what your application, different situations

will require different actions and this chapter will explain what they are.

Chapter 4

Compost Troubleshooting

Initial System Start Up

Begin operation by carrying out the start up procedure described below, and then continue with the “Ongoing

Toilet Maintenance” routine. It normally takes six weeks before a compost is properly established. You will know

this has happened when: - Compost Volume increases more slowly

- Compost turns black and becomes loam-like

- Toilet paper decomposes within a few days

One entire bag of Compost Sure Blue to the drum or 100%

non-antibacterial wood shavings.

1/2 Microbe Mix packet at start up, other 1/2 in two weeks

About 1 gallon (4 litres) of warm water into the drum

Fan and heater are operating

“Compost Quick” enzymes into drum before and after mixing.

Coat the evaporation chamber with it before using the unit.

Loose peat moss from the evaporating chamber until the com-

post is established, which takes approximately 6 weeks.

Black evaporating tray under drum screen to the left of the

right finishing drawer.

Compost collection bin (Doghouse) with garbage bag.

-Provides carbon base and initial mass

for compost.

-Adds necessary microbes which will

breakdown the compost.

-Moistens carbon base

-The unit is ready for use

-Speeds start up of compost by acting

as a catalyst to assist bacteria.

-Prevents possibility of start-up odor in

the evaporating chamber.

-Until the compost is active, some peat

moss may fall through the screen or

drum door into the evaporating cham-

ber

Extends the surface area of evaporation

chamber

-Allows easy removal of finished com-

post.

Action Why?

CAUTION

1. Do NNOOTTadd or clean the toilet bowl with chemicals. Chemicals will kill the bacteria.

IINNSSTTEEAADD, clean the bowl liner with”Compost Quick”, or very hot water and baking soda.

2. Do NNOOTTadd plastic, glass, metal, cleaning fluids, cigarettes. Add only waste and bulking material.

3. Kitchen or garden waste are NNOOTTrecommended.

4. Do NOT

add baby wipes of feminine paper as they will not compost.

Toilet paper is a good source of carbon and should be added after use.

ADD

SPRINKLE

PLUG IN

SPRAY

RAKE

POSITION

LINE

Chapter 3

Start Up and Use

- 15 -- 14 -

Action Reason for Action

Add 1 cupful (250ml) of Sun-Mar Compost Sure Blue (or 100% non-antibacterial

wood shavings) to the Bio-Drum per person per day of use.

Turn Handle to rotate the drum a minimum of 10 revolutions, every second

day when in use. Pull the drum locker button and turn the drum 1/2 turn past its’

resting position to level the compost inside the drum. DO NOT forget to return the

drum opening to a position under the wastepipe.

Unplug the unit if you are leaving for a period of more than a few days. If you

are leaving one weekend and coming back the next, you may unplug the unit.

Consider installing a timer to shut the unit off after 48 hours to evaporate excess

liquid. If you are leaving for a period of more than a few days, or the compost

appears dry, add approximately 1/2 gallon (2 liters) of warm water to keep the

compost moist.

Check compost collection bin to make sure the bag does not need changing.

Compost will automatically move along the drum into the doghouse every time the

drum is rotated. When the bag becomes full, simply empty into a secondary com-

post container, where the compost will remain for another 6 months before using.

If your unit is used seasonally and is not used heavily,

you may not have to remove any compost at all during

the season. If so, follow “Annual Startups”.

- Maintains the carbon/nitrogen

balance

- Absorbs liquid

- Helps oxygen penetrate for aerobic

composting

- Mixes and oxygenates the compost

- unplugging unit will conserve power

and keep compost from drying.

- addition of water helps keep the

compost moist

- Moves some compost to the next

stage for finishing

- Ensures that the drum does not get

too full

- Provides extra time for composting

to be completed

Ongoing Toilet Maintenance

The procedure below is designed to keep the compost:

- Moist, but not too wet

- Well aerated and mixed

- Well balanced and aerobic

**Sealand Toilet users;

Removal of the Sealand Water Valve is advised for winter months where the toilet portion may be

exposed to freezing temperatures. The plastic housing of the water valve will crack if any moisture is left inside, necessitat-

ing the replacement of this part which is NOT covered under your warranty.

Annual Start Up (seasonal units only)

Many units are only used regularly throughout the summer. For such seasonal units Sun-Mar recommends that the

following start up procedure be followed at the beginning of the season.

Action Reason for Action

Empty the compost that is in the compost finishing chamber, and use the rake to

clean out the evaporation chamber.

(Optional) If more space is required in the drum, remove additional drawers

of compost , by releasing the drum lock (white button on right side of unit), and

rotating the drum clockwise (the handle turns counter-clockwise) to extract compost

into the drawer. (At the beginning of the season, it will all be finished compost)

Add 1/2 gallon (2 litres) of warm water.

As an option for optimal composting,

Add SUN-MAR “Microbe Mix” . We do not recommend using topsoil as it may con-

tain fly larvae.

SUN-MAR “Compost Quick” enzyme can also be used as a compost accelerant.

Your fertilizer is ready.

- This is a good time to remove peat

debris

Frees space in the composting

chamber for the new seasons com-

posting.

- Raises moisture level

- Even though the compost still has

microbes in it, you may want to start

the year by replenishing your batch

of microbes.

- Compost Quick helps to accelerate the

action of the microbes.

Periodic Check Up

Once your unit has been through initial or annual start-ups, and ongoing maintenance procedures are being fol-

lowed, Sun-Mar recommends a system of periodic checks be undertaken.

Action Reason for Action

Rake peat moss debris from the evaporation chamber, making sure to rake from

the rear of the chamber, including the back two corners of the unit. Raking should

occur on a yearly basis for cottages (best done at annual startups), and a bi-

monthly period for continuous users.

Check your compost moisture level on each visit for cottage users and once

every two weeks for continuous users. This can be done by shining a light into the

Bio-Drum. The compost should have a slight gloss or shine to it. A moisture

meter may also be used if so desired. Range should be 4-6, which represents

40% to 60%

Clean the drum screen. Remove the finishing drawer. The drum screen is locat-

ed to the left of the drawer. Spray the drum screen with Compost Quick and let sit

for 15 minutes (this will help to loosen the debris if the screen is not too encrust-

ed). Scrub the screen vigorously with the wire brush. If brushing the screen does

not clear it and liquid is still not draining through the screen, use a screwdriver or

nail to puncture each hole in the drum screen.

- Ensures drains cannot get plugged

and evaporation is improved.

- A good compost is between 40% and

60% moisture content.

- Prevents lumps, ensures toilet paper

breaks down quickly.

- Prevents insects

- Prevents liquid from accumulating in

the drum.

- Keeps compost from getting

anaerobic.

- 15 -- 14 -

Action Reason for Action

Add 1 cupful (250ml) of Sun-Mar Compost Sure Blue (or 100% non-antibacterial

wood shavings) to the Bio-Drum per person per day of use.

Turn Handle to rotate the drum a minimum of 10 revolutions, every second

day when in use. Pull the drum locker button and turn the drum 1/2 turn past its’

resting position to level the compost inside the drum. DO NOT forget to return the

drum opening to a position under the wastepipe.

Unplug the unit if you are leaving for a period of more than a few days. If you

are leaving one weekend and coming back the next, you may unplug the unit.

Consider installing a timer to shut the unit off after 48 hours to evaporate excess

liquid. If you are leaving for a period of more than a few days, or the compost

appears dry, add approximately 1/2 gallon (2 liters) of warm water to keep the

compost moist.

Check compost collection bin to make sure the bag does not need changing.

Compost will automatically move along the drum into the doghouse every time the

drum is rotated. When the bag becomes full, simply empty into a secondary com-

post container, where the compost will remain for another 6 months before using.

If your unit is used seasonally and is not used heavily,

you may not have to remove any compost at all during

the season. If so, follow “Annual Startups”.

- Maintains the carbon/nitrogen

balance

- Absorbs liquid

- Helps oxygen penetrate for aerobic

composting

- Mixes and oxygenates the compost

- unplugging unit will conserve power

and keep compost from drying.

- addition of water helps keep the

compost moist

- Moves some compost to the next

stage for finishing

- Ensures that the drum does not get

too full

- Provides extra time for composting

to be completed

Ongoing Toilet Maintenance

The procedure below is designed to keep the compost:

- Moist, but not too wet

- Well aerated and mixed

- Well balanced and aerobic

**Sealand Toilet users;

Removal of the Sealand Water Valve is advised for winter months where the toilet portion may be

exposed to freezing temperatures. The plastic housing of the water valve will crack if any moisture is left inside, necessitat-

ing the replacement of this part which is NOT covered under your warranty.

Annual Start Up (seasonal units only)

Many units are only used regularly throughout the summer. For such seasonal units Sun-Mar recommends that the

following start up procedure be followed at the beginning of the season.

Action Reason for Action

Empty the compost that is in the compost finishing chamber, and use the rake to

clean out the evaporation chamber.

(Optional) If more space is required in the drum, remove additional drawers

of compost , by releasing the drum lock (white button on right side of unit), and

rotating the drum clockwise (the handle turns counter-clockwise) to extract compost

into the drawer. (At the beginning of the season, it will all be finished compost)

Add 1/2 gallon (2 litres) of warm water.

As an option for optimal composting,

Add SUN-MAR “Microbe Mix” . We do not recommend using topsoil as it may con-

tain fly larvae.

SUN-MAR “Compost Quick” enzyme can also be used as a compost accelerant.

Your fertilizer is ready.

- This is a good time to remove peat

debris

Frees space in the composting

chamber for the new seasons com-

posting.

- Raises moisture level

- Even though the compost still has

microbes in it, you may want to start

the year by replenishing your batch

of microbes.

- Compost Quick helps to accelerate the

action of the microbes.

Periodic Check Up

Once your unit has been through initial or annual start-ups, and ongoing maintenance procedures are being fol-

lowed, Sun-Mar recommends a system of periodic checks be undertaken.

Action Reason for Action

Rake peat moss debris from the evaporation chamber, making sure to rake from

the rear of the chamber, including the back two corners of the unit. Raking should

occur on a yearly basis for cottages (best done at annual startups), and a bi-

monthly period for continuous users.

Check your compost moisture level on each visit for cottage users and once

every two weeks for continuous users. This can be done by shining a light into the

Bio-Drum. The compost should have a slight gloss or shine to it. A moisture

meter may also be used if so desired. Range should be 4-6, which represents

40% to 60%

Clean the drum screen. Remove the finishing drawer. The drum screen is locat-

ed to the left of the drawer. Spray the drum screen with Compost Quick and let sit

for 15 minutes (this will help to loosen the debris if the screen is not too encrust-

ed). Scrub the screen vigorously with the wire brush. If brushing the screen does

not clear it and liquid is still not draining through the screen, use a screwdriver or

nail to puncture each hole in the drum screen.

- Ensures drains cannot get plugged

and evaporation is improved.

- A good compost is between 40% and

60% moisture content.

- Prevents lumps, ensures toilet paper

breaks down quickly.

- Prevents insects

- Prevents liquid from accumulating in

the drum.

- Keeps compost from getting

anaerobic.

- 16 - - 13 -

This chapter will deal with problem that may arise with your compost, what is required to make your compost healthy

and how to correct problems if they arise.

Requirements of an Aerobic Compost

In a Sun-Mar, a good compost is predominantly aerobic, which

means that oxygen is available for aerobic bacteria throughout

the Bio-drum. Aerobic bacteria consume waste quickly and

odorlessly to produce carbon dioxide and water vapor and

leave behind a small fraction of the original waste volume in

the form of basic minerals. The end compost is a mix of valu-

able minerals and bulking material that has not decomposed.

To work effectively to break down waste, aerobic bacteria need

oxygen, moisture, available carbon (from the bulking material),

and warmth.

In a Sun-Mar, oxygen is provided by the tumbling of the drum

and the bulking material leaving free air space within the com-

post. Moisture is provided by the waste, and is made available

to aerobic bacteria by the moisture retention properties of the

bulking material. If the compost is too dry, add warm water.

In summary, to keep the compost aerobic, it is important to

rotate the drum, add bulking material, and keep the compost

moist.

Oxygen

Lack of oxygen becomes a problem where:

- Too much moisture eliminates the free air space,

- A lack of bulking material limits free air space,

- Aerobic bacteria use up oxygen in the compost.

Lack of oxygen causes the compost to become increasingly

anaerobic, which means that aerobic bacteria are displaced by

anaerobic bacteria. Anaerobic bacteria work slowly and pro-

duce undesirable ammonia, hydrogen sulphide, and methane.

Consequently, the maintenance of ‘free air’ space by periodi-

cally rotating the drum and adding the right bulking material is

very important in Sun-Mar units. Excessive rotation is not

helpful and can harm the compost by disturbing the bacteria

too much.

Moisture

If there is too much moisture, and the compost is approaching

saturation, oxygen is pushed out and anaerobic activity pre-

dominates. On the other hand, if there is too little moisture,

aerobic activity slows. For this reason, it is important to main-

tain adequate moisture levels (40-60% moisture content is

ideal). Generally, if you shine a flashlight in after mixing, there

should be a slight sheen of moisture on your compost.

Warmth

Too little warmth will cause aerobic activity to slow. Below 55-

60 degrees F., microbes will go dormant and composting will

stop. Composting speeds increase dramatically with temper-

ature.

Characteristics of a Bad Compost

If your compost is over 8 weeks old and it exhibits one or more

of the following characteristics , then an operating change is

indicated.

 Extraction required too often (under 4

weeks)

 Large Lumps present in compost

 Compost muddy or clay-like

 Flies present (this may also be a problem

with foreign matter being added to unit; see

section on flies)

 Compost has strong unpleasant smell of

sewage when drum is turned.

 Toilet paper present in finishing drawer

Troubleshooting

In using this troubleshooting section, you should follow reme-

dial action in the order that they are given, unless you are sure

of the problem. You should see improvement in a week, and

your compost should be back to normal in 2-3 weeks. If it is

not, make sure that “Ongoing Toilet Maintenance” is being fol-

lowed and check the mechanical troubleshooting section.

Although the start up instructions remain the same no matter what your application, different situations

will require different actions and this chapter will explain what they are.

Chapter 4

Compost Troubleshooting

Initial System Start Up

Begin operation by carrying out the start up procedure described below, and then continue with the “Ongoing

Toilet Maintenance” routine. It normally takes six weeks before a compost is properly established. You will know

this has happened when: - Compost Volume increases more slowly

- Compost turns black and becomes loam-like

- Toilet paper decomposes within a few days

One entire bag of Compost Sure Blue to the drum or 100%

non-antibacterial wood shavings.

1/2 Microbe Mix packet at start up, other 1/2 in two weeks

About 1 gallon (4 litres) of warm water into the drum

Fan and heater are operating

“Compost Quick” enzymes into drum before and after mixing.

Coat the evaporation chamber with it before using the unit.

Loose peat moss from the evaporating chamber until the com-

post is established, which takes approximately 6 weeks.

Black evaporating tray under drum screen to the left of the

right finishing drawer.

Compost collection bin (Doghouse) with garbage bag.

-Provides carbon base and initial mass

for compost.

-Adds necessary microbes which will

breakdown the compost.

-Moistens carbon base

-The unit is ready for use

-Speeds start up of compost by acting

as a catalyst to assist bacteria.

-Prevents possibility of start-up odor in

the evaporating chamber.

-Until the compost is active, some peat

moss may fall through the screen or

drum door into the evaporating cham-

ber

Extends the surface area of evaporation

chamber

-Allows easy removal of finished com-

post.

Action Why?

CAUTION

1. Do NNOOTTadd or clean the toilet bowl with chemicals. Chemicals will kill the bacteria.

IINNSSTTEEAADD, clean the bowl liner with”Compost Quick”, or very hot water and baking soda.

2. Do NNOOTTadd plastic, glass, metal, cleaning fluids, cigarettes. Add only waste and bulking material.

3. Kitchen or garden waste are NNOOTTrecommended.

4. Do NOT

add baby wipes of feminine paper as they will not compost.

Toilet paper is a good source of carbon and should be added after use.

ADD

SPRINKLE

PLUG IN

SPRAY

RAKE

POSITION

LINE

Chapter 3

Start Up and Use

- 17 -- 12 -

Symptom Cause Remedial Action Prevention

Compost

Too Wet

Your compost

is too wet when

there are

standing pools

of liquid.

Compost will

smell of sewage

and is

anaerobic

Compost

Too Dry

Compost is too

dry when com-

post looks flat

and brown rather

than rich and

black.

Waste not

Breaking

Down at all

If this is the case,

the drum will fill

up quickly

Compost porosity is

poor. Too much

peat moss has been

used as a bulking

material. This is

compacting, pre-

venting liquid from

draining through,

and leaving no free

air space for oxy-

gen.

Drum screen

clogged

Moisture not being

added periodically

or before departure

on cottage units.

Toilet not used for

urination .

Insufficient bulking

material or not

enough peat moss.

Insufficient Microbes

Room Temperature

under 60F/15C

Bleach or other

anti-bacterial

chemic

Compost too dry

For an immediate improvement in porosity add

about 3-4 gallons (4 litres) of wood shavings, of

any kind (except cedar) to the drum.

On an ongoing basis, change bulking material to

Compost Sure Blue or a 100% wood shavings .

Remove the finishing drawer. Scrub screen

(which will be visible with a flashlight on the bot-

tom of the drum) with wire brush. The overflow

drain should be hooked up.

Add 1/2 to 1 gallon(2-4 litres) of hot water to

compost in order to bring it up to appropriate

moisture level.

Peat moss retains moisture. 40-60% moisture

content is ideal for aerobic microbes to thrive.

Add Sun-Mar Microbe Mix.

Install heat source to increase temperature.

Temperature should be kept above 55-60F/15-

16C constantly if toilet will be used on an ongo-

ing basis.

Empty drum. Hose out inside of drum. Restart

compost according to “Initial System Startups”.

Bacteria need moisture to live and move within

the compost. Compost should be quite moist,

40-60% moisture content.

Use Sun-Mar Compost Sure Blue

or 100% wood shavings as a bulk-

ing material.

Use proper bulking mixture

Follow section on moisture in

“PERIODIC CHECKUP”.

Use toilet for urination.

Add correct bulking material.

Be sure to add microbe packet at

startups.

Install unit in warm area. The

warmer the area, the better your

compost will be! If evening temper-

atures fall below the prescribed

temperatures on a residential unit,

consider installing a heat source on

a timer for evenings.

Never add bleach or cleaning chem-

icals.

Add water or flush toilet to moisten

compost.

Every Sun-Mar AC/DC and NE model comes with a 12 Volt Fan for installation in the 4” (100mm) stack.

Its installation is required in the following situations:

-If you are installing both 2” (50mm) and 4” (100mm) vent stacks (prevents downdraft from

the 2” or 50 mm vent)

-If you are in an area where you are subject to downdraft

-If you are using the unit residentially

-If you need to install the vent stack with bends

We include it because many AC/DC owners do install both vent

stacks. It may also be installed later if you wish simply by cut-

ting a section out of your vent and replacing it with the fan.

To install the fan initially, pick a spot on the stack that you can

reach easily. In order to get the best evaporative performance

from the fan, install it near the toilet if possible (remember, the

fan will still not be enough to evaporate all liquids in a non-

electric or DC only environment). Once you have placed it

where you wish, use silicone caulking, or rubberized couplings,

to make the installation airtight. Do not use ABS glue at this

area as you may need to change the fan at a later date.

The 12 Volt Fan may be powered with a battery that is con-

nected to a generator, solar panel, or other alternative energy

system. For use in AC, purchase a 12 Volt to AC Adapter from

any electrical store and snip off the female end - wire the posi-

tive wire to the red wire on the fan, and the negative wire to

the blue wire on the fan. Tie them off with small wire connec-

tors, and plug your AC Adapter into the wall.

The 12 Volt Fan should be continuously running if used, as if it

is not running it will act as a block in the vent stack.

12 Volt Fan

Installation

(AC/DC and

NE)

installation of a 12 volt fan.

ii) Do not lead the 2” (50mm) vent pipe downward or horizontally at any point. This may lead to the vent

pipe being blocked by condensation which would cause a urine smell in your bathroom.

iii) All connectors in the vent pipe should be sealed. Use

silicone

for

the

connection

the

vent

stack

the

toilet

case

the

composting

unit

has

moved

you

have

access

the

fan. PVC cement

may be used in the rest of the stack installation if desired.

iv) All exposed vent pipe should be insulated with the foam insulation. This is especially important for

winter or residential use.

v) The Sun-Mar 12 Volt fan is fitted inside a 12”(305mm) length of 4” (100mm) vent pipe for easy

installation, should it be needed. It is installed by either cutting out a section of the vent immediately

above the composting unit, or by raising the vent stack off of the composting unit and inserting the fan

section. The fan can be used with a solar panel and 12 volt battery, or by purchasing a 12 volt adapter

from your local hardware store and simply plugging it into the wall.

As shown in the installation, the vent stack should end

about 30” (75cm) above the peak of the roof so that it

is less subject to downdraft. Where the piping is taken

through the roof, the roof flashing provided should be

used to seal the installation. Insert the vent into the bell

of the roof flashing and slide the roof flashing down until

it lays evenly on the roof. Slip the upper edge or the roof

flashing flange under the shingles. Outline the flashing

on the roof. Raise the roof flashing and apply silicone

sealant or roofing tar inside the outline. Slide the flash-

ing back into place and firmly press onto the sealant.

The flashing is properly placed when the top part of the

roof flashing flange is tucked under the shingles and the

lower portion is sealed on top of the shingles so that

water sheds easily. Secure the flashing with corrosion

resistant nails at each corner and along sides. Any exposed nails should be sealed with silicone caulking.

The diffusor provided with the unit is a simple device to

be installed at the top of the vent stack with the larger

pipe protruding above the smaller. To install, simply glue

the diffusor on the topmost section of vent pipe. The dif-

fusor design encourages updraft, and discourages wind

and weather from going down the vent stack. Unlike wind

turbines, diffusors are less likely to freeze up in winter,

and are more effective in calm weather.

A ground fault interrupter (GFI) circuit is recommended to protect your composting unit from electrical prob-

lems. This may be installed directly on the wall socket or at the circuit breaker.

Vent

Piping

Installation

(Cont’d)

Leading

the vent

through the

roof

The

Diffusor

Electrical

Considerat-

ions

(Electric

and AC/DC)

Symptom Cause Remedial Action Prevention

Waste not

Breaking

Down at all

(cont'd’)

Lumps

If many large

lumps have

formed in drum,

you will need to

remove them or

break them up

with the rake

tool. Follow the

prevention col-

umn to ensure

this does not

happen.

Drum Too

Full

Note: The drum

is too full when it

is over 2/3 full,

and the door is

not closing prop-

erly.

Antibiotics being

used for more than

a few weeks on a

continuous basis

may kill bacteria

Compost Too Dry

Over-Rotation of

Drum

Peat moss used as

bulking material with

no wood shavings.

Compost not emp-

tied into finishing

drawer in a timely

fashion.

Kitchen/Garden

Waste added

Empty drum. Rinse out inside of drum, being

careful that liquid does not overflow out of the

drawer opening. Restart compost according to

“Initial System Startups”.

Follow instructions for “Compost Too Dry” above.

And also add 1/2 gallon (2 litres) of peat moss.

Follow “ONGOING TOILET MAINTENANCE”, and

also add 1/2 gallon (2 litres) of wood shavings.

Begin using 100% wood shavings as bulking

material.

1. Remove compost until drum is only half full or

less. Rotate compost thoroughly to aerate,

and add compost accelerants (Compost Quick

and Microbe Mix) if available.

2. If you need to dump more than one drawer of

compost, and you do not already have a suit-

able backyard compost heap, you may try an

open-slatted wooden crate (such as the kind

used to pack age fruits and vegetables). Layer

compost with bulking material and leave crate

outside for around 2 months to finish com-

posting.

When used normally, antibiotics will

only slightly slow compost. Add

Sun-Mar Microbe Mix and/or

Compost Quick during this period to

accelerate compost action.

Urinating elsewhere during this

period will also help minimize the

damage to the compost.

Follow recommendations for check-

ing and adding moisture in “PERI-

ODIC CHECKUP”.

Drum should be turned three times

a week, 6-12 rotations each time;

or before departure for weekend

use.

Use proper bulking material.

When drum is 1/2 full, remove

some compost to the finishing

drawer by rotating the drum back-

wards, to avoid surprise over-filling

of drum. Do NOT let drum get

above 2/3 full. (The drum is 2/3 full

when the level of the compost

reaches 2-3 inches below where

the drum door hangs) This will lead

to lack of aeration, and anaerobic

compost, and the inconvenience of

having to remove more than one

drawer.

Do Not add kitchen or garden

waste.

- 11 -

- 18 -

Handling

Effluent

Vent Piping

Location

Adjusting

the fan

gate(Electri

c and

AC/DC)

Vent

Piping

Installation

The following are possible options to take care of the liquid:

- Use a container which is emptied periodically (water jug or small

barrel). This ensures a closed loop

system.

- Feed into a lined pit filled with gravel and sand. Such a recycling

bed also ensures a closed loop system.

- Feed into a small cesspit or “french drain”.

-Plumb into an existing septic or holding tank line.

Installation should be in accordance with applicable local regulations.

If running the vent pipe through a wall, it should be done with an upward sloping angle(as shown in the pic-

ture below). There should be NO horizontal or downward sloping sections. Installing the vent pipe with

horizontal or downward sloping sections will result in a urine odor around the composting unit. Below are

some examples of a desireable installation. If the unit will be used in colder weather, all exposed 2” vent

pipes should be insulated to reduce freezing and condensation.

The vent on the right is a 4” (100mm) non-

electric vent.

All others show possible 2” (50mm)

Centrex 3000 (electric) vent configurations.

If you believe that there may be a downdraft outside of the build-

ing, it may be a good idea to remove your fan assembly prior to

installation and set the fan gate to ‘0’ to prevent urine odor in the

bathroom. The fan gate is factory set to ‘3’, which recirculates air

within the unit. If there is a downdraft you may get blow back into

the room where the unit is installed. When setting the fan gate to

‘0’, you may lose some evaporation so it is also wise to hook up

the emergency drain.

Piping and fittings are of standard 2” (50mm) PVC thin wall tubing(central vacuum) and/or 4” (100mm)

PVC thin wall pipe. Additional pipe or fittings can be purchased from a building supply dealer. If you cannot

find them near your location, you can substitute schedule 40 pipe and use a rubber coupling to join this

pipe to the unit.

i) Minimize the number of sharp angles in the 2” (50mm)vent as each reduces vent efficiency. The 4”

(100mm) vent should be installed as near to vertical as possible. It is recommended if it is necessary

to have angles in the 4” (100mm) vent pipe that 45 degree angles are used whenever possible. On

the 4” (100mm) DC stack, bends should be limited to 2 - 45 degree angles. will necessitate the

Symptom Cause Remedial Action Prevention

Flies

Present

-compost too dry

-compost anaerobic

-kitchen/garden

waste added

-foreign material

added

1 .To get rid of flies, you can use any pesticide

that is used on your garden. Pesticides used

for garden use are not anti-bacterial so are

safe to use on your compost. If you prefer not

to use a pesticide in your compost, the unit

should be cleaned out completely and washed

with soapy water to kill any remaining eggs.

Once the unit is washed, it should be rinse

well to remove all traces of soap before

restarting the compost.

If using a pesticide to kill the insects, it maybe

purchased from a local garden center or

hardware store.

2. Natural larvacide that can be used in the com-

post is bacillus thuringiensis israelensis or BT i.

This is a natural aerobic bacteria that is found in

soil. The fly larvae ingest this bacteria.Once BT i

has been ingested by the larvae, it releases a

crystal in the larvae that essentially cuts the lar-

vae up. This does take about 2 weeks to work

since it kills the larvae, not the adult flies. This

can by purchased at stores that sell pond sup-

plies. The product name is Aqua-Bac or there is

another called Mosquito Dunks that is available

to consumers. Either of these products should

be dissolved in water and used as a soak for the

compost. This should be repeated every 2 days

for a week to make sure that all larvae are cov-

ered.

3. The other alternative to using pesticides is to

completely clean the toilet out, wash the inside

with soap and water

IMPORTANT:

Application of a pesticide in a Sun-Mar com-

poster is not a health concern because all Sun-

Mar units are vented. If using pesticides, avoid

spilling on the outer shell of the composter.

1. Keep compost moist. In order to

determine a good level of mois-

ture, shine a flashlight into the

drum. The compost should have

a slight gloss or shine. If it does

not, add warm water to it until it

reaches this consistency. Fungus

gnats tend to be attracted to a

dry compost, due to the fungus

which begins to form on the sur-

face when it dries out. A good,

moist compost will not be attrac-

tive to flies.

2. Do not add topsoil from the

ground, composted matter, or

kitchen scraps to the toilet. Flies

may be present in, or attracted

to these items.

3. If toilet is installed over an old

septic line,make sure that the

lines are well sealed. Insects

find unused lines attractive.

4.See “Compost Remediation” if the

compost smells- anaerobic com-

post will attract flies and drasti-

cally reduce the performance of

your composting unit

5. Use “Compost Sure Blue” or

wood shavings on their own if

unit is to be used every day.

- 19 -- 10 -

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