Sun-mar Centrex 2000 series User manual

PO-MANU0-0609XX

February 2009

Rev D6 Serial

________________

CENTREX 2000 FAMILY

OWNER’S MANUAL

Product Info: (905) 332-1314 Fax: (905) 332-1315 Tech. Service: (888) 341-0782

E-mail: compost@sun-mar.com http://www.sun-mar.com

600 Main St. 5370 South Service Rd.

Tonawanda, N.Y. Burlington, ON

14150-0888 U.S.A. L7L 5L1 CANADA

RATED CAPACITY

Weekend & Vacation Use

(Cottage Use)

NE Units; 6 Adults

Electric Units; 7 Adults

Residential & Continuous Use

NE units: 3 Adults

Electric Units; 4 Adults

Standard 41

Certified for liquid

containment, odors, and solid

end products in cottagel use

Certified to NSF/ANSI Standard 41

CENTREX 2000 CENTREX 2000 AC/DC

CENTREX 2000 NE

Electrical

Specifications

Centrex

2000

2000NE

2000AC/DC

Maximum Amps 3.6 NA 3.6/NA

Fan Watts

35 req. 1.4 opt. 35 req./

(Required or Optional 2.4 opt.

Hook-up)

Heater Watts 370 NA 370

(When on)

Average Power Use

200 NA 200

In Watts (Heater on

1/2 time)

- 28 -

OWNER’S MANUAL

CONTENTS

Introduction

Chapter

How your composting

toilet Works

How Composting Works

The Composting Chamber

Compost Finishing Drawer

Evaporation Chamber

Winter Use

CENTREX 2000 Family Part Numbers

Wiring Diagram

CENTREX 2000 Family Explosion

Drawing

Inspection

Check for Damage

Check for Parts and Functionality

Placement of unit

Installation

CENTREX 2000 Rough in Dimensions

Included in your kit

Installing the 1 Pint(500ml)

Low-Flush Toilet

Installation Considerations for

The Waste Pipe

The 3” (75mm) Waste Inlet

Drain Installation

Handling Effluent

Vent Pipe Location

Adjusting the Fan Gate

Vent Pipe Installation

Leading the Vent through the roof

The Diffusor

Electrical Considerations

12 Volt Fan Installation

Start Up and Use

Initial System Start Up

2-5

7-12

13-15

Chapter

Annual Start Up

Periodic Check Up

Ongoing Maintenance

Compost

Troubleshooting

Aerobic Compost Requirements

Compost Too Wet

Compost Too Dry

Waste not Breaking Down

Lumps

Drum Too Full

Flies

Mechanical

Troubleshooting

Urine Odor In Washroom

Occasional Urine Odor Outside

Sewage Odor when drum turns

Fan Noisy

Fan Not Working

Liquid Buildup/

Lack of Evaporation

Overflowing Liquid

Heating System Not Working

Liquid In Finishing Drawer

Drum Will Not Stay Vertical

Drum Will Not Turn

Drum Door Not Opening/

Closing

Waste Not Exiting Waste Pipe

Composting

Accessories

WarrantyInformation

Basic Maintenance

Electrical Specifications

16-19

20-24

- 1 -

- 2 - - 27 -

The key to the success of the “CENTREX 2000 Family” lies in it’s three chamber design. Each of the three cham-

bers; composting, compost finishing, and evaporation have their own independent environments for optimum effi-

ciency.

Introduction

HOW YOUR COMPOSTING TOILET WORKS

Composting is a natural recycling process where human

waste and toilet paper are broken down by microbes

into minerals and converted back to earth. Heat, oxy-

gen, organic material and moisture are needed to

transform this waste into good fertilizing soil, perfect for

your flower beds.

Oxygen is provided by the ventilation system, and by

tumbling the composting drum. Additional organic

material is introduced by adding “Compost Sure Blue”

(or 100% non-antibacterial wood shavings). The waste

entering the toilet is approximately 90% water content.

Any excess liquid which is not absorbed will collect on

the floor of the unit (evaporation chamber) where it

may be evaporated into water vapor and carried back

to the atmosphere through the venting system. The

remaining waste material is transformed into an inof-

fensive earth-like substance.

The Composting Chamber

The composting chamber is in the form of a Bio-drum

which holds the natural compost heat, provides the nec-

essary mass to maintain a good compost, and is rotat-

ed by turning the handle to achieve perfect mixing and

aeration.

During mixing, both the input door and the output doors

will remain closed. When the drum returns to the top

dead centre position ready to receive more waste, the

input doors remains open.

Compost is removed from the drum periodically, by

pulling the white drum locker button (on the handle side

of the composting unit)out, and turning the handle

counter-clockwise so that the drum rotates clockwise.

When this is done, the output door stays open, and

compost falls into the second chamber;-the compost

finishing drawer.

To ensure that the compost remains moist, but does not

get too wet (between 40 and 60% moisture content is

ideal), any excess liquid which the compost cannot

absorb drains through a screen in the rear of the drum

directly onto an evaporating tray beneath the screen,

and from there, overflows into the evaporating chamber.

The evaporating tray can be removed periodically to

remove peat moss debris that has accumulated.

Compost Finishing Drawer

The compost finishing drawer is at the extreme right of

the unit below the composting drum, and just above the

evaporating chamber. Compost from the drum is isolat-

ed in the drawer where it is allowed to ‘finish’ compost-

ing. For seasonally used units, several drawers of fin-

ished compost are normally removed at the beginning

of the season. Otherwise some composted material can

be extracted into the drawer and left there for 3-4

weeks until it is time to remove more compost from the

drum.

BBaassiicc

MMaaiinntteennaannccee

IInnssttrruuccttiioonnss

Sealand toilet and 'Centrex Family' Central Units

The toilet is porcelain and should be cleaned with hot water or bio-degradable products to avoid damage

to the compost. If required 'Compost Quick' or Baking Soda can be used diluted in hot water.

Three

times

week

weekly

maintenance

(every

second

day):

Turn drum to reveal waste inlet hole through access port and add compost mix at the rate of @ 1 cupful

(250ml) per person per day. (Scoop provided is 2 cups or 500ml)

Rotate handle clockwise to mix contents of Bio-drum and give 6 complete revolutions of the drum - (36-

40 rotations of the handle). Ensure that the drum door opening is in the vertical position at the end

after hearing the 'click' of the catch.

Spray 'Compost Quick' into the drum before and after mixing.

Check

compost

volume

and

condition

Bio-ddrum

and:

If the waste in the Bio-drum is too wet add wood shavings and check your drum screen for blockages to

improve aeration.

To speed up composting, add one scoop of Microbe Mix every second week, and ensure that the drum is

not more than 1/2 full. If the drum is too full, follow the instructions to extract compost (page 15).

Monthly

maintenance

and

emptying

cycle:

Rake out evaporation chamber with rake provided (the area below the finishing drawer). The black evap-

orating tray should be removed, solid matter tipped into the finishing tray and then replaced beneath the

drum screen.

Clean the drum screen. Remove the finishing drawer, the drum screen is to the left of the drawer on the

bottom of the drum. Spray the drum screen with Compost Quick and let sit for 15 minutes (this will help

to loosen the debris if the screen is not too encrusted). Scrub the screen vigorously with the wire brush.

If brushing the screen does not clear it and liquid is still not draining through the screen, use a screw-

driver or nail to puncture each hole in the drum screen.

Attention:

the

composting

unit

must

remain

plugged

electrical

outlet

continuously

function

odorlessly.

The

AC/DC

units

should

have

both

fans

running

while

used

electric

mode

prevent

recircu-

lation

between

vent

stacks.

you

will

away

from

the

residence

where

the

composting

unit

installed

for

longer

than

three

days,

the

power

may

disconnected

while

the

composting

unit

lays

dormant.

Evaporating Chamber

The third chamber is the floor of the Sun-Mar “CENTREX

2000 Family” which forms the evaporation chamber

from where excess liquids may be evaporated. You will

always see liquid in this area, which is waiting to be

evaporated.

In electric and AC/DC units, air is pulled through intake

holes at the rear of the unit; over the evaporating

chamber, and up the 2”(50mm) vent stack which exits

from the front of the composting unit when AC power is

being used.

On non-electric or AC/DC units, when AC power is

unavailable, natural draft caused by the chimney effect

of the 4”(100mm) vent and assisted by the 12 volt fan

draws air into the unit and up the 4”(100mm)vent

stack.

In the electric mode, the evaporation process is further

assisted by a thermostatically controlled heating ele-

ment in a separate sealed compartment under the

evaporating chamber. This heater is on when there is

liquid in the evaporating chamber, and mostly off when

the chamber is dry. The heating system maintains

warmth in the evaporating chamber, and the indirect

warmth assists the composting process, without the

compost drying out. A safety drain exits from the side

of the composter which drains off any excess liquid to a

cess pool, recycling bed, or other approved facility.

Winter Use

Because "Sun-Mar" units are made largely of fiberglass

and high grade stainless steel, freezing temperatures

will not damage the composting unit. Composting action

decreases as the temperature drops, so for continuous

use, the composting unit should be kept constantly at or

above 55-60 degrees F (13-15 C). All exposed vent

stack should be insulated (right up to 2" or 5cm below

the diffusor) to minimize the condensation in the pipe

and avoid ice blockages. Drain pipe should be insulat-

ed or, in extreme temperatures, heat tape used to pre-

vent ice blockages.

In extreme temperatures, an additional source of heat

will also be required.

If the compost is frozen in the drum, the unit may be

used periodically as a "holding tank", until the compost

warms up and the microbes emerge from dormancy.

Space should be made in the drum prior to freezing to

accommodate winter use. The drum should NOT be

rotated when the compost is frozen.

Make sure that the composting unit is protected from

snow and ice accumulation to ensure that moisture

doesn't get into the heater base. It is a good idea to

put a tarp over the composting unit to protect it from

snow.

- 3 -

- 26 -

Composting Drum:

Waste and bulking mix-

Finishing Drawer: Where

compost is put to ‘finish’

Evaporation Chamber: This is

where you will frequently see liq-

uid collecting.

Evaporation Tray: Extends

the surface area of the

evaporation chamber

WARRANTY

SUN-MAR Corp. warrants the original purchaser that this toilet is free from defects in material

and workmanship under normal house or cottage use. SUN-MAR Corp. will furnish new parts for

any part that fails within three years or 5 years on the fibreglass tank, provided that our inspec-

tion shows that such failure is due to defective material or workmanship. Any part supplied by

us to replace another part is warranted for the balance of the original warranty period.

This warranty does not cover:

1. Damage resulting from neglect, abuse, accident or alteration; or damage caused by fire,

flood, acts of God or any other casualty.

2. Parts and accessories not sold or manufactured by SUN-MAR Corp. or any damage resulting

from the use of such items.

3. Damage or failure resulting from failure of the purchaser to follow normal operating proce-

dure outlined in the Owner’s Manual or in any other printed instructions.

4. Labor and services charges incurred in the removal and replacement of any parts found

defective under the terms of this warranty.

5. All returns to the factory must by made freight prepaid. All shipments from the factory are

made F.O.B. the factory.

This warranty is in lieu of all other warranties expressed or implied, and no person is author-

ized to enlarge our warranty responsibility, which is limited to the terms of this certificate. The

Company reserves the right to change, improve or modify its products without obligation to

install these improvements on equipment previously manufactured.

- 4 - - 25 -

ACCESSORY ITEMS FOR COMPOSTING

Solution containing a mixture of enzymes

designed to facilitate bacterial activity.

Also useful as a cleaner.

16 oz. (454 gm)

“Compost

Quick”

$15.50

EXPLOSION DRAWING OF COMPOSTING UNIT

SUN-MAR has developed a number of composting accessory items over the years in response to frequent requests

from users. These items may serve to improve composting speeds under some circumstances.

Name Description Container Price*

$16.00

Special selected dried bacteria to decom-

pose waste also includes dried enzymes

16 oz, (454 gm) Jar

“Microbe Mix”

“Compost Sure

Blue”

Bulking material containing 100%

chopped hemp stalk to provide moisture

retention, porosity, and free air space

within the compost.

30 litre (8 USG) /bag

$15.00

Prices do not include freight -

Please call for current freight charges before ordering or on-line at www.sun-mar.com

Prices subject to change.

Note:

If the peat moss you are using is powdery and fine, it will result in poor porosity and an excessively wet, oxygen deficient com-

post. You should change or modify your bulking material. This situation is most likely to happen with central units which are

exposed to a lot of flushing liquid. Modify by switching to wood shavings, or use “Compost Sure Blue” for optimum results.

- 24 - - 5 -

CENTREX 2000 FAMILY PART NUMBERS & DESCRIPTIONS

Symptom Cause Remedial Action Prevention

Drum Will

Not Turn

Drum Door

Not

Opening/

Closing

Properly

Waste Not

Exiting

Waste Pipe

or Gas

Bubbles at

Toilet

Set screw securing

handle to shaft has

broken

Steel pin securing

gear wheel to shaft

has broken

Drum fallen from

bearings.

Drum too full

Hinges Stuck

Waste pipe blocked

1. Drill out set screw and use tap to re-thread

hole.

2. Replace with Screw #10-32x 1 1/4" Hex

Socket Stainless Steel set.

3. If unavailable, call Sun-Mar for a replace-

ment. Serial number of the Centrex 2000

will be required.

Have your serial number ready and call Sun-Mar

for a replacement Small Gear Kit.

Have your serial number ready.

If the drum has fallen, contact Sun-Mar immedi-

ately. Serial number of the Centrex 2000 will be

required.

See Section on “Compost Troubleshooting- Drum

Too Full”

Drum Hinges have compost caked on them.

Spray with Compost Quick and clean with nylon

brush. This will push the obstruction away so

the door swings freely.

1. Ensure piping installation remains as per

“Installation Instructions” (See earlier sec-

tion), and modify if necessary.

2. Follow “Periodic Check Up” recommenda-

tions and options.

3. If still blocked, install clear-out port as per

“Instructions” (See earlier section) and

clear with plumbing snake.

Keep composting drum from

becoming overloaded. This puts

undue strain on the nylon gear.

Not a common repair.

Drum should never be more than

1/2 full.

# PART DESCRIPTION # PART DESCRIPTION

1PP-INLEP-0207CX Centrex Waste Inlet 17 (Incl. In Heating Element Kit) Insulation

2AO-ACCEP-0481BX Access Port 18 AO-THERA-0001AX Thermostat

3PP-BUSH0-0812XX Bushing Threaded 19 AO-HEATE-0311XX Heating Element C9286-1

4AO-SMALL-0440XX Nylon Drive Gear 20 PM-ALUMS-0811EX Aluminum Sheet

5AO-SHAFA-0851XX SS Shaft Kit 21 AO-DRUML-0469BX Drum Locker

6AO-FAN_A-0315KX Fan Assembly (Electric & AC/DC) 22 PP-SCRE00-0821EX Drum Locker Knobt

7PP-GASK0-0188XX Rubber Gasket 23 PP-INTAV-0797XX Air Intake Vent

8PP_DRUM0-0624CX Centrex 2000 Drum 24 PF-TANKC-0761EX Centrex 2000 Tank

9PP-BEARP-0758RX Bearing Plate 25 PP-BEARS-0787CX Drum Bearing Strip

10 PP-GASK0-0188BX Rubber U Channel 26 AM-DRUMS-0329EX Drum Screen

11 AP-DRAI0-0306EX Drain Assembly 27 AO-DRUMD-2004EX Drum Door

12 PF-EVAPT-0789EX Evaporating Tray 28 AO-DRUMD-2004EX Drum Door

13 PF-DRAW1-0764EX Centrex 2000 Drawer 29 AO-HANDL-3000EX Swivel Handle

14 P0-ELECB-0001AX Electric Box Assembly (Electric and AC/DC) 30 PP-TOPC2-0802BX Centrex 2000 Top Kit

15 PF-HEAT1-0760EX Centrex 2000 Heater Tray 30 PP-TOPC2-0802DX Centrex 2000 NE Top

16 PP-GASK0-0188BX Rubber U Channel 30 PP-TOPC2-0802CX Centrex 2000 AC/DC Top

31 PP-INLEP-0207CX Waste Inlet Pipe

- 6 - - 23 -

Symptom Cause Remedial Action Prevention

Heating

System Not

Working

(Electric

and AC/DC)

Liquid in

Finishing

Drawer

Drum Will

Not Stay

Vertical

Test to determine

whether failure has

occurred

Thermostat Failure

Heating Element

Failure

Drum Screen

Clogged

Unit tilted to wrong

side

Condensation run-

ning down vent

stack

Drum Locker

Broken

Pull drawer out and put your hand in the evapo-

ration chamber (Not in the liquid). If there is no

warmth rising from the floor of the unit, your

heating system is not working. It is most com-

monly the thermostat that has failed. If you

notice a lack of evaporation, but there is still

warmth in the heating chamber, see “Liquid

Buildup” for solutions.

Have your serial number ready and call Sun-Mar

for a replacement. (Detailed instructions are

included with the replacement part)

If the insulation behind the thermostat access

cover is moist or discolored, or heating does not

work after the new thermostat has been connect-

ed, then the heating element has failed.

Have your serial number ready and call Sun-Mar

for a replacement. (Detailed instructions are

included with the replacement part)

Please note: Because this part is not easy to

replace, and because there is far less chance

that you will need this part than a thermostat; we

recommend trying to replace the thermostat first.

Remove the finishing drawer. By reaching

through the opening, you should be able to

access the drum screen. Scrub vigorously with a

wire brush.

Use a 1/4” to 1/2” (6-12mm) wedge piece under

the right side of the unit to drain liquid more eas-

ily towards the overflow drain of the unit.

Liquid will be clear or yellowish in appearance.

Make sure all vent pipe exposed to the outdoor is

well insulated and there are no horizontal runs.

Have serial number ready and call Sun-Mar for a

replacement part.

A ground fault interrupt circuit is

recommended to protect your

Centrex 2000 from power surges if

your heating system malfunctions.

Your thermostat and fan are the

two constantly moving parts on the

unit, and so are the most likely to

fail. Both are fairly easy to replace.

DO NOT wash the outside of the

unit with a hose or pressure wash-

er. Install the unit so that ground

water or weather cannot get at the

base of the unit.

When returning the drum to top

dead center position, do not bang

against drum locker with excessive

force. Remember to pull out the

drum locker button before rotating

the drum backwards.

This chapter describes how to inspect your new Centrex 2000 prior to installation for damage and make

sure you have received all of the parts.

Inspecting

the unit for

damage

Check Carton

Contents

and

Familiarize

Yourself with

the

Centrex 2000

Placement of

Unit

Chapter 1

Inspection

i) If there is any visible damage to the carton-

the contents of carton MUST be inspected before signing bill of lading. Damaged units

should be refused. Call Sun-Mar immediately.

ii) Before signing the shipping papers and dismissing the driver.-

ensure that the carton contents have been inspected.

iii) If the shipper has left-

Report the damage immediately to the transport company and call Sun-Mar.

iv) Soon after delivery, remove the Centrex 2000 carefully

from the carton-

If there is hidden damage, or for any service Questions, contact Sun-Mar to determine

the best course of action.

Check that the carton contains the vent stack (pipe, fittings, roof flashing and diffusor);

“Compost Sure”, rake, drain hose and fittings, etc. Notify Sun-Mar if you are missing anything.

i) Turn the drum handle clockwise to rotate the Bio-Drum for mixing and aeration. (The drum

rotates counter-clockwise and the drum door closes). TThhiiss

iiss

hhooww

yyoouu

wwiillll

rroottaattee

tthhee

ddrruumm..

ii) Lift and remove the access door and rotate the drum until the drum opening is visible

through the the access door opening for adding “Compost Sure Blue”. TThhiiss

iiss

hhooww

yyoouu

wwiillll

aadddd

““CCoommp

poosstt

SSuurree

BBlluuee””ppeeaatt

mmoossss

mmiixxttuurree

ttoo

tthhee

ddrruumm

iii) Plug the unit’s electrical cord (Electric and AC/DC units) into a standard three-prong elec-

trical outlet, and feel the air movement from the vent outlet at the front of the unit to

ensure the vent system is working properly.

v) Pull out the compost finishing drawers at the bottom right of the unit.

vi) After the unit has been plugged in for ten minutes, place a hand on the floor of the

evaporating chamber (the area under the finishing drawer) to check it is warm to the

touch, and that the heater is working properly.

vii) Affix the “WARNING/CLEANING” sticker to the underside of the toilet seat cover, and check

that another is on the access port of the composting unit.

The unit should be installed so that the base is protected from weather. The rubber “u” chan-

nel at the bottom of the unit is well-sealed with silicone, but if the unit is sitting in water, has

snow melting against it, or rain pouring on it, this may eventually wear through and short out

the heating element. Install your unit with a protective cover of some kind around this area,

and do not install the unit in a pit where water can accumulate around it.

- 7 -- 22 -

Symptom Cause Remedial Action Prevention

Liquid

Buildup/

Lack of

Evaporat-

ion

Overflow-

ing

Liquid From

Drawer

Opening

Increased usage

Failure of heating

system

Mineral salts may

have accumulated in

the evaporation

chamber over a few

years, reducing

evaporation rates.

Overflow drain not

hooked up

Unit tipped forward

or to the right

Drains Blocked

The amount of liquid varies substantially between

installations. The overflow drain needs to be

installed on all Centrex 2000 with low-flush toi-

lets.

Check “heating not working”

To get rid of these, fill the evaporation chamber

with very hot water and 1/3 bottle of “Compost

Quick” enzyme liquid. Leave overnight. Drain all

Liquid through the overflow drain by tipping the

unit to the left (make sure overflow is hooked up

first)

Connect overflow safety drain (See also increased

usage above)

Check and ensure that the unit is level or tilting

slightly towards the left by placing a 1/4” - 1/2”

(6-13mm)shim piece under the right side of the

unit.

1. Rake peat mix away from left two corners

of Centrex 2000 Family. These are the

“buildup” areas. Use ‘hook’ end of rake to

pull debris from under drain baffles.If

drains are still clogged, proceed to step 2.

2. Check drain line for kinks, blockages or

upward bends. Remove and flush if blockages

present, unkink if bent and ensure that the

drain pipe is sloping downward. If your

drain pipe is in order, proceed to step 3.

3. Use a wire to poke peat moss out of the drain

assembly at the back. You will notice if this

is clogged because you will see a brown spot

through the opaque drain assembly. (Only

peat would make it through the drum

screen). If there is no peat clog, or the

problems continue, backwash the unit quickly

with a hose by applying the nozzle to one of

the drain assemblies and turning it on and off

very quickly. If the bottom of the unit is full of

liquid, you may wish to remove some prior to

back-washing. A shop-vac works well.

Install the overflow drain.

Rake evaporating chamber vigor-

ously at spring startups for cottage

use, and once every other month

for residential use.

1. A clogged drain is not very like-

ly to happen if you rake your

evaporating chamber 1-2 times

a season (cottage use) and 3-4

per year times for continuous

use.

2. Use premium 1” (25mm) ID

hose for the drain line. A good

hose will be less likely to kink.

Use elbows or fittings around

bends to prevent kinks.

3. Use Compost Sure Blue as your

bulking material.

4. Make sure that the evaporation

tray is installed properly(under-

neath the drum screen, with lip

pointing towards drawer and

lowest end pointing towards

the drains (to the left).

Chapter 2

Installation

ROUGH IN DIMENSIONS

Included

In Your Kit

Installing the

“1 Pint” Low

Flush Toilet

- 8 - - 21 -

Symptom Cause Remedial Action Prevention

Occasional

Urine Odor

Outside

Strong

Sewage

Odor

Present

when drum

turns

Fan Noisy

(Electric

and AC/DC)

Fan Not

Working

(Electric

and AC/DC)

1. Vent stack not

installed even

with peak of roof.

2. If vent stack is

installed above

roofline, natural

obstructions,

such as tall

trees, being

located in a

valley or close to

a hill may be

causing down-

draft.

Compost is

anaerobic

Fan damaged in

shipping, or bear-

ings are beginning

to wear if it is rat-

tling.

Fan vibrations res-

onating in vent pipe

(12 Volt Fan)

Debris in fan or

Mechanical Failure.

1. Check that the vent is installed 2-3 feet (600-

900mm) above the peak of the roof. If not,

extend the vent.

Guide wires may be necessary.

2. Add lime to the evaporation chamber; as

much as you think necessary. You will have

to rake more often if you do this. You can

also add lime to the compost if desired, but

no more than 1/2 cup(250ml) per week as it

may upset the PH balance in larger amounts.

3. Sun-Mar has a filter box available which will

filter the ammonia out of the vented air in a

downdraft situation. Call Sun-Mar for details.

Drum too full.

Handle not turned enough.

Incorrect bulking mixture used

1. If it is rattling, it may need to be cleaned or

the bearings are worn and the fan needs to

be replaced.

2. A hum is the normal sound the fan will make.

If you are in a very quiet setting it will be

more noticeable. If this is the case, consider

purchasing a fan speed control so that the

fan may be turned down when the noise

bothers you.

3. If it is a vibration noise, you may need to tie

down the top of the stack with guide wires and

bracket the pipe that runs up the side of

the structure.

Use pipe clamps to secure vent pipe or install fan

with rubberized couplings to help absorb vibra-

tions.

Have your serial number ready and call Sun-Mar.

Downdraft is dependent on wind

direction, as well as natural

obstructions, etc.

Initially, install the vent 2-3 feet

(600-900mm)above the peak of

the roof. If symptoms occur, add

lime or a filter box.

Ideally, drum should be maintained

at 1/2 full.

Drum should be turned every sec-

ond day, 6 complete turns of the

drum (36-40 turns of the handle)

Use Compost Sure Blue or 100%

non-antibacterial wood shavings

Clean the fan with a small brush

and/or compressed air nozzle once

every 2-3 years in cottage use, or

once a year residentially. To do

this, remove the fan assembly by

taking off the snap cap covers and

unscrewing the screws which hold it

in.

The entire assembly will then simply

slide out. This will prevent wear

and lengthen the life of your fan.

The fan is a continuously moving

part which will eventually have to be

changed. Do Not turn on and off

daily.

1- Owners Manual 1- 1 1/2” (38mm)Roof Flashing (Electric & AC/DC)

1- Warranty Card 1- 4” (100mm)Roof Flashing (NE & AC/DC)

1- Evaporation Tray 6- 2” x 30” (50760mm)PVC Pipe (Electric & AC/DC)

1- 8’ 4” (254cm)Drain Pipe 2- Compost Sure

1- Rake 1- 4” Diffusor (100mm)(Electric & AC/DC)

1- 3” (76mm)Centrex 2000 Inlet 1- 6” (150mm) Diffusor (NE & AC/DC)

5- 4” x30” (100x 700mm)ABS Pipe (NE & AC/DC) 1- Centrex 2000 Hardware Kit

1- 12 Volt 2.4 Watt Fan (NE & AC/DC) 1- Centrex NE Hardware Kit (NE & AC/DC)

1. Make sure the center of the floor flange is at least 11 inches

(280mm) from the back wall.

2. When Installing a new floor flange, make certain that the toilet

mounting bolts align properly with Sealand Traveler toilet mount-

ing pattern.

3. Secure flange to floor using flat head screws through counter-

sunk holes in flange. Insert bolts into slotted holes in flange

(Fig. A)

4. If toilet is being installed in a shower stall, apply a 1/4”(6mm) thick

by 3/4”(19mm) wide bead of glazing compound around the

circumference of the floor flange (Fig B).

5. Position floor seal by pressing the floor bolts up through the

holes in the seal.

6. Set toilet in place with bolts protruding up through mounting holes

in base (Fig C).

7. Install washers and hex nuts provided with toilet. Tighten nuts

down equally with standard 7/17” (12mm) open end wrench.

Remove excess Glazing compound from around base.

8. Connect water supply line to water valve (1/2” or 13mm MPT) inlet

using appropriate fittings (Fig D)

9. Turn on water supply and flush toilet to test for leaks.

10. Attach pedestal and pedal covers to toilet base. See instructions

below.

- 9 -

- 20 -

Symptom Cause Remedial Action Prevention

Urine Odor

Around

Unit

Horizontal runs or

downward slopes

on pipe are causing

condensate to

block pipe.

Fan has failed (110

volt) (Electric and

AC/DC)

Fan has failed (12

volt) (AC/DC and

NE)

Device other than

Sun-Mar diffuser is

installed on top of

the vent stack

Room where unit is

located is airtight.

2” Vent stack has

too many bends

and/or horizontal

lengths. (Electric

and AC/DC)

Install wall brackets on vent pipe to

prevent settling. DO NOT install hori-

zontal runs as liquid will collect and

block ventilation, causing odor.

The fan is a constantly moving part

and has a finite service life.

The fan is a constantly moving part

and has a finite service life.

Wind turbines or vent caps

should not be installed on or, instead

of a Sun-Mar diffuser.

Install your CENTREX 2000 in an

area with plenty of ventilation and

watch for competing appliances such

as bathroom fans and wood stoves.

Install the vent with minimal bends

(total bends should equal no more

than 360 degrees) and NO horizon-

tal or downward slopes.

Installation

Considerat-

ions for the

waste pipe

The 3” Waste

Inlet

Drain

Installation

When installing the waste piping from the toilet to the composting unit, the following considerations

should be born in mind:-

i) The piping should be either 45 degrees or more to the vertical (if composting unit is directly below

toilet), or at a 2-3 degree angle (1/8”-1/4” or 3-13mm drop per foot maximum) so that the waste

travels with the liquid.

ii) Piping should not slope upwards at any point.

iii) Connections should be snug so that waste is not encouraged to “hang up” where pipe meets

connector.

iv) It is recommended that the waste pipe not be longer than 15 feet (460cm) without installing a clear

out port(a Y fitting with screw on end cap) near the toilet to provide easy access should it ever be

required.

v) Use a soft sealant, such as silicone for the connection of the waste piping to the composting unit so

that the composting unit can be moved for servicing or other reasons should this ever be required.

vi) Insulate piping if unit is to be used during the winter.

For heavy winter use, the composting unit will need to be kept warm by enclosing it, insulating the

enclosure, and providing some heat source. The enclosure must not be airtight since the unit

must be able to draw air in.

The 3”(75mm) waste inlet (supplied with kit) should be installed where the waste pipe feeds into the

composting unit. This assembly will allow the waste to flow into the Bio-Drum without interfering with the

drums’ function. If more room is needed in your installation, you can substitute this assembly by con-

structing your own 3” (75mm) waste assembly from the examples shown below.

This assembly can be constructed by using a 3 (75mm)inch coupling or elbow (as shown below) and a

piece of 3 inch(75mm) pipe. Glue the pipe into the end of the coupling or elbow that will sit on the

composting unit waste inlet opening. Cut this pipe so that only 1/2”(13mm) protrudes from the coupling

or elbow. This pipe will fit in the waste inlet hole and should end just above the opening in the drum,

without interfering with drum movement.

The drains must be connected for all applications. The 1” (25mm)Safety drains at the left of the

“Centrex 2000”, exit to both the front and back. To connect one of the drains, (whichever is conven-

ient), remove the plug, attach the 1”(25mm) hose (included) and secure with a hose clamp. Ensure

there are no kinks or upward bends in the drain hose.

Re-install the vent so there are no longer any low

points where condensate can collect. If re-instal-

lation is not possible, drill a small hole in the bot-

tom of the low point (preferable outdoors) to

allow condensate to drain. (Note: watch for icing

in winter at this hole.)

Have your serial number ready and call Sun-Mar

for a replacement. Instructions are included with

the replacement fan.

Remove and replace fan. Fan should be on when

installed. When it is turned off it forms an

obstruction in the vent.

Wind turbines or vent caps may be discouraging

air movement. If so, replace with a Sun-Mar dif-

fuser.

1. Hold a lighter up to the air intake holes on the

back of the unit. Air should be drawn into

the holes. If air is not easily pulled in, check

venting for too many bends or horizontal

lengths and/or provide more ventilation to

the room.

2. Install fresh air intakes on any competing

appliances.

1. Re-install the vent stack to reduce the number

of bends/eliminate horizontal lengths.

2. If the vent stack cannot be further straight-

ened, remove the fan assembly and reduce

the amount of recirculating air by covering up

the area between the fan exhaust and the 90

degree vent intake elbow with duct tape or

similar.

Chapter 5

MECHANICAL TROUBLE SHOOTING

Most problems are prevented through proper maintenance and the use of proper bulking materials in the composting

unit. If you do have a problem, the Trouble Shooting section will help you solve it. If you still have further questions,

contact technical service at Sun-Mar for advice at 1-888-341-0782

- 10 - - 19 -

Symptom Cause Remedial Action Prevention

1 .To get rid of flies, you can use any pesticide

that is used on your garden. Pesticides used

for garden use are not anti-bacterial so are

safe to use on your compost. If you prefer not

to use a pesticide in your compost, the unit

should be cleaned out completely and washed

with soapy water to kill any remaining eggs.

Once the unit is washed, it should be rinse

well to remove all traces of soap before

restarting the compost.

If using a pesticide to kill the insects, it maybe

purchased from a local garden center or

hardware store.

2. Natural larvacide that can be used in the com-

post is bacillus thuringiensis israelensis or BT i.

This is a natural aerobic bacteria that is found in

soil. The fly larvae ingest this bacteria.Once BT i

has been ingested by the larvae, it releases a

crystal in the larvae that essentially cuts the lar-

vae up. This does take about 2 weeks to work

since it kills the larvae, not the adult flies. This

can by purchased at stores that sell pond sup-

plies. The product name is Aqua-Bac or there is

another called Mosquito Dunks that is available

to consumers. Either of these products should

be dissolved in water and used as a soak for the

compost. This should be repeated every 2 days

for a week to make sure that all larvae are cov-

ered.

3. The other alternative to using pesticides is to

completely clean the toilet out, wash the inside

with soap and water

IMPORTANT:

Application of a pesticide in a Sun-Mar composter

is not a health concern because all Sun-Mar units

are vented. If using pesticides, avoid spilling on

the outer shell of the composter.

1. Keep compost moist. In order to

determine a good level of mois

ture, shine a flashlight into the

drum. The compost should have a

slight gloss or shine. If it does

not, add warm water to it until it

reaches this consistency. Fungus

gnats tend to be attracted to a

dry compost, due to the fungus

which begins to form on the sur

face when it dries out. A good,

moist compost will not be attrac

tive to flies.

2. Do not add topsoil from the

ground, composted matter, or

kitchen scraps to the toilet. Flies

may be present in, or attracted

to these items.

3. If toilet is installed over an old

septic line,make sure that the

lines are well sealed. Insects find

unused lines attractive.

4.See “Compost Remediation” if the

compost smells- anaerobic com

post will attract flies and drastical

ly reduce the performance of your

composting unit.

5. Use “Compost Sure Blue” or a

mixture of peat moss and

non-cedar wood shavings.

-compost too dry

-compost anaerobic

-kitchen/garden

waste added

-foreign material

added

The following are possible options to take care of the liquid:

- Use a container which is emptied periodically (water jug or small

barrel). This ensures a closed loop system.

- Feed into a lined pit filled with gravel and sand. Such a recycling

bed also ensures a closed loop system.

- Feed into a small cesspit or “french drain”.

-Plumb into an existing septic or holding tank line.

Installation should be in accordance with applicable local regulations.

If running the vent pipe through a wall, it should be done with an upward sloping angle(as shown in the

picture below). There should be NO horizontal or downward sloping sections. Installing the vent pipe

with horizontal or downward sloping sections will result in a urine odor around the composting unit.

Below are some examples of a desireable installation. If the unit will be used in colder weather, all

exposed 2” vent pipes should be insulated to reduce freezing and condensation.

The vent on the right is a 4” (100mm)

non-electric vent.

All others show possible 2” (50mm)

Centrex 2000 (electric) vent configura-

tions.

If you believe that there may be a downdraft outside of the building,

it may be a good idea to remove your fan assembly prior to installa-

tion and set the fan gate to ‘0’ to prevent urine odor in the bath-

room. The fan gate is factory set to ‘3’, which recirculates air within

the unit. If there is a downdraft you may get blow back into the

room where the unit is installed. When setting the fan gate to ‘0’,

you may lose some evaporation.

Piping and fittings are of standard 2” PVC thin wall tubing(central vacuum) and/or 4” (100ml) ABS thin

wall pipe. Additional pipe or fittings can be purchased from a building supply dealer. If you cannot find

them near your location, you can substitute schedule 40 pipe and use a rubber coupling to join this pipe

to the unit.

i) Minimize the number of sharp angles in the 2” (50ml) vent as each reduces vent efficiency. The

4”(100ml) vent should be installed as near to vertical as possible. It is recommended if it is

necessary to have angles in the 4” (100ml) vent pipe that 45 degree angles are used whenever

possible. On the 4” (100ml) DC stack, bends should be limited to 2 - 45 degree angles. will

necessitate the installation of a 12 volt fan.

ii) Do not lead the 2” (50ml) vent pipe downward or horizontally at any point. This may lead to the

Flies

Present

Handling

Effluent

Vent Piping

Location

Adjusting

the fan

gate(Electric

and AC/DC)

Vent

Piping

Installation

Vent

Piping

Installation

(Cont’d)

Leading the

vent

through the

roof

The Diffusor

Electrical

Considerat-

ions

(Electric and

AC/DC)

vent pipe being blocked by condensation which would cause a urine smell in your bathroom.

iii) All connectors in the vent pipe should be sealed. Use

silicone

for

the

connection

the

vent

stack

the

toilet

case

the

composting

unit

has

moved

you

have

access

the

fan. PVC cement

may be used in the rest of the stack installation if desired.

iv) All exposed 2” vent pipe should be insulated with the foam insulation. This is especially important

for winter or residential use.

v) The Sun-Mar 12 Volt fan is fitted inside a 11” (280mm) length of 4”(100mm) vent pipe for easy

installation, should it be needed. It is installed by either cutting out a section of the vent immediately

above the composting unit, or by raising the vent stack off of the composting unit and inserting the

fan section. The fan can be used with a solar panel and 12 volt battery, or by purchasing a 12 volt

adapter from your local hardware store and simply plugging it into the wall.

As shown in the installation, the vent stack should end

about 30” (75mm)above the peak of the roof so that it is

less subject to downdraft. Where the piping is taken

through the roof, the roof flashing provided should be

used to seal the installation. Insert the vent into the bell

of the roof flashing and slide the roof flashing down until

it lays evenly on the roof. Slip the upper edge or the roof

flashing flange under the shingles. Outline the flashing on

the roof. Raise the roof flashing and apply silicone

sealant or roofing tar inside the outline. Slide the flashing

back into place and firmly press onto the sealant. The

flashing is properly placed when the top part of the roof

flashing flange is tucked under the shingles and the lower

portion is sealed on top of the shingles so that water

sheds easily. Secure the flashing with corrosion resistant

nails at each corner and along sides. Any exposed nails

should be sealed with silicone caulking.

The diffusor provided with the unit is a simple device to

be installed at the top of the vent stack with the larger

pipe protruding above the smaller. To install, simply

glue the diffusor on the topmost section of vent pipe.

The diffusor design encourages updraft, and discour-

ages wind and weather from going down the vent

stack. Unlike wind turbines, diffusors are less likely to

freeze up in winter, and are more effective in calm

weather.

A ground fault interrupter (GFI) circuit is recommended to protect your composting unit from electrical

problems. This may be installed directly on the wall socket or at the circuit breaker.

Symptom Cause Remedial Action Prevention

Waste not

Breaking

Down at all

(cont'd’)

Lumps

If many large

lumps have

formed in drum,

you will need to

remove them or

break them up

with the rake

tool. Follow the

prevention col-

umn to ensure

this does not

happen.

Drum Too

Full

Note: The drum

is too full when it

is over 1/2 full,

and the door is

not closing prop-

erly.

Antibiotics being

used for more than

a few weeks on a

continuous basis

may kill bacteria

Compost Too Dry

Over-Rotation of

Drum

Peat moss used as

bulking material

with no wood shav-

ings.

Compost not emp-

tied into finishing

drawer in a timely

fashion.

Kitchen/Garden

Waste added

When used normally, antibiotics will

only slightly slow compost. Add

Sun-Mar Microbe Mix and/or

Compost Quick during this period to

accelerate compost action.

Urinating elsewhere during this

period will also help minimize the

damage to the compost.

Follow recommendations for check-

ing and adding moisture in “PERI-

ODIC CHECKUP”.

Drum should be turned every sec-

ond day (when in use), 6 rotations

of the drum (36-40 of handle)

each time.

Use proper bulking material.

When drum is 1/2 full, remove

some compost to the finishing

drawer by rotating the drum back-

wards, to avoid surprise over-filling

of drum. Do NOT let drum get

above 1/2 full. (The drum is 1/2 full

when the level of the compost

reaches 4-6 inches(100-150mm)

below where the drum door hangs)

This will lead to lack of aeration,

and anaerobic compost, and the

inconvenience of having to remove

more than one drawer.

Do Not add kitchen or garden

waste.

Empty drum. Rinse out inside of drum, being

careful that liquid does not overflow out of the

drawer opening. Restart compost according to

“Initial System Startups”.

Follow instructions for “Compost Too Dry” on

page 17. And also add 1/2 gallon (2 liters) of

warm water.

Follow “ONGOING TOILET MAINTENANCE” on page

15, and also add 1/2 gallon(2 liters) of wood

shavings.

Begin using 100% wood shavings, as bulking

material.

1. Remove compost until drum is only half full or

less. Rotate compost thoroughly to aerate,

and add compost accelerants (Compost Quick

and Microbe Mix) if available.

2. If you need to dump more than one drawer of

compost, and you do not already have a suit-

able backyard compost heap, you may try an

open-slatted wooden crate (such as the kind

used to pack age fruits and vegetables).

Layer compost with bulking material and

leave crate outside for around 2 months to

finish composting.

- 11 -

- 18 -

12 Volt Fan

Installation

(AC/DC and

NE)

Every Sun-Mar AC/DC and NE model comes with a 12 Volt Fan for installation in the 4” stack. Its instal-

lation is required in the following situations:

-If you are installing both 2” (50mm)and 4” (100mm)vent stacks (prevents downdraft from

the 4” (100mm) vent in the AC/DC units)

-If you are in an area where you are subject to downdraft

-If you are using the unit residentially

-If you need to install the vent stack with bends

We include the 12 volt fan with the AC/DC unit because many AC/DC owners do install both vent stacks. It

may also be installed later if you wish simply by cutting a

section out of your vent and replacing it with the fan.

To install the fan initially, pick a spot on the stack that you

can reach easily. In order to get the best evaporative per-

formance from the fan, install it near the composting unit if

possible (remember, the fan will still not be enough to evap-

orate all liquids in a non-electric or DC only environment).

Once you have placed it where you wish, use silicone caulk-

ing, or rubberized couplings, to make the installation airtight.

Do not use glue at this area as you may need to change the

fan at a later date.

The 12 Volt Fan may be powered with a battery that is con-

nected to a generator, solar panel, or other alternative ener-

gy system. For use in AC, purchase a 12 Volt to AC Adapter

from any electrical store and snip off the female end - wire

the positive wire to the red wire on the fan, and the negative

wire to the blue wire on the fan. Tie them off with small wire

connectors, and plug your AC Adapter into the wall.

The 12 Volt Fan should be continuously running if used, as if it is not running it will act as a block in the

vent stack.

Symptom Cause Remedial Action Prevention

Use Sun-Mar Compost Sure Blue

100% wood shavings as a bulking

material.

Rotate the drum as advised. Do not

allow the drum to become too full.

Follow section on moisture in

“PERIODIC CHECKUP”.

Use toilet for urination.

Add correct bulking material.

Be sure to add Microbe Mix packet

at startup.

Install unit in warm area. The

warmer the area, the better your

compost will be! If evening temper-

atures fall below the prescribed

temperatures on a residential unit,

consider installing a heat source on

a timer for evenings.

Never add bleach or cleaning chemi-

cals.

Add water or flush toilet to moisten

compost.

Compost

Too Wet

Your compost

is too wet when

there are

standing pools

of liquid.

Compost will

smell of sewage

and is

anaerobic

Compost

Too Dry

Compost is too

dry when com-

post looks flat

and brown rather

than rich and

black.

Waste not

Breaking

Down at all

If this is the case,

the drum will fill

up quickly

Compost porosity is

poor. Too much

peat moss has been

used as a bulking

material. This is

compacting, pre-

venting liquid from

draining through,

and leaving no free

air space for oxy-

gen.

Drum screen

clogged

Moisture not being

added periodically

or before departure

on cottage units.

Toilet not used for

urination.

Insufficient bulking

material or not

enough peat moss.

Insufficient Microbes

Room Temperature

under 60F/15C

Bleach or other anti-

bacterial chemicals

added.

Compost too dry

For an immediate improvement in porosity add

about 1/2 (2 liters) gallon of wood shavings,

(not anti-bacterial) to the drum.

On an ongoing basis, change bulking material to

Compost Sure Blue or 100% wood shavings.

Remove the finishing drawer. The drum screen is

to the left of the finishing drawer opening. Spray

the drum screen with Compost Quick and let set

for 15 minutes. With a long handled wire brush,

vigorously scrub the drum screen.

Add 1/2 to 1 gallon (2-4 liters)of warm water

to compost in order to bring it up to appropriate

moisture level.

Peat moss retains moisture. 40-60% moisture

content is ideal for aerobic microbes to thrive.

Add Sun-Mar Microbe Mix

Install heat source to increase temperature.

Temperature should be kept above 55-60F/15C

constantly if toilet will be used on an ongoing

basis.

Empty drum. Hose out inside of drum. Restart

compost according to “Initial System Startups”.

Bacteria need moisture to live and move within

the compost. Compost should be quite moist,

40-60% moisture content.

- 12 - - 17 -

- 16 - - 13 -

Chapter 4

Compost Troubleshooting

This chapter will deal with problem that may arise with your compost, what is required to make your compost healthy

and how to correct problems if they arise.

Aerobic Compost Requirements

In a Sun-Mar, a good compost is predominantly aerobic, which

means that oxygen is available for aerobic bacteria throughout

the Bio-drum. Aerobic bacteria consume waste quickly and

odorlessly to produce carbon dioxide and water vapor and

leave behind a small fraction of the original waste volume in

the form of basic minerals. The end compost is a mix of valu-

able minerals and bulking material that has not decomposed.

To work effectively to break down waste, aerobic bacteria need

oxygen, moisture, available carbon (from the bulking material),

and warmth.

In a Sun-Mar, oxygen is provided by the tumbling of the drum

and the bulking material leaving free air space within the com-

post. Moisture is provided by the waste, and is made available

to aerobic bacteria by the moisture retention properties of the

bulking material. If the compost is too dry, add warm water.

In summary, to keep the compost aerobic, it is important to

rotate the drum, add bulking material, and keep the compost

moist.

Oxygen

Lack of oxygen becomes a problem where:

- Too much moisture eliminates the free air space,

- A lack of bulking material limits free air space,

- Aerobic bacteria use up oxygen in the compost.

Lack of oxygen causes the compost to become increasingly

anaerobic, which means that aerobic bacteria are displaced by

anaerobic bacteria. Anaerobic bacteria work slowly and pro-

duce undesirable ammonia, hydrogen sulfide, and methane.

Consequently, the maintenance of ‘free air’ space by periodi-

cally rotating the drum and adding the right bulking material is

very important in Sun-Mar units. Excessive rotation is not

helpful and can harm the compost by disturbing the bacteria

too much.

Moisture

If there is too much moisture, and the compost is approaching

saturation, oxygen is pushed out and anaerobic activity pre-

dominates. On the other hand, if there is too little moisture,

aerobic activity slows. For this reason, it is important to main-

tain adequate moisture levels (40-60% moisture content is

ideal). Generally, if you shine a flashlight in after mixing, there

should be a slight sheen of moisture on your compost.

Warmth

Too little warmth will cause aerobic activity to slow. Below 55-

60 degrees F., microbes will go dormant and composting will

stop. Composting speeds increase dramatically with tempera-

ture.

Characteristics of a Bad Compost

If your compost is over 8 weeks old and it exhibits one or more

of the following characteristics , then an operating change is

indicated.

 Extraction required too often (under 4

weeks)

 Large Lumps present in compost

 Compost muddy or clay-like

 Flies present (this may also be a problem

with foreign matter being added to unit; see

section on flies)

 Compost has strong unpleasant smell of

sewage when drum is turned.

 Toilet paper present in finishing drawer

Troubleshooting

In using this troubleshooting section, you should follow reme-

dial action in the order that they are given, unless you are sure

of the problem. You should see improvement in a week, and

your compost should be back to normal in 2-3 weeks. If it is

not, make sure that “Ongoing Toilet Maintenance” is being fol-

lowed and check the mechanical troubleshooting section.

One full bag peat mix to the drum.

1/2 Microbe Mix packet at start up, other 1/2 in two weeks

About 1 gallon of warm water into the drum

Fan and heater are operating

“Compost Quick” enzymes into drum before and after mixing.

Coat the evaporation chamber with it before using the unit.

Loose bulking mixture from the evaporating chamber until the

compost is established, which takes approximately 6 weeks.

Black evaporating tray under drum screen to the left of the

drawer.

-Provides carbon base and initial mass

for compost.

-Adds necessary microbes which will

breakdown the compost.

-Moistens carbon base

-The unit is ready for use

-Speeds start up of compost by acting as

a catalyst to assist bacteria.

-Prevents possibility of start-up odor in

the evaporating chamber.

-Until the compost is active, some peat

moss may fall through the screen or

drum door into the evaporating chamber

Extends the surface area of evaporation

chamber

Chapter 3

Start Up and Use

Although the start up instructions remain the same no matter what your application, different situations will

require different actions and this chapter will explain what they are.

Initial System Start Up

Begin operation by carrying out the start up procedure described below, and then continue with the “Ongoing Toilet

Maintenance” routine. It normally takes six weeks before a compost is properly established. You will know this has

happened when: - Compost Volume increases more slowly

- Compost turns black and becomes loam-like

- Toilet paper decomposes within a few days

Action Why?

ADD

SPRINKLE

PLUG IN

SPRAY

RAKE

POSITION

CAUTION

1. Do NNOOTTadd or clean the toilet bowl with chemicals. Chemicals will kill the bacteria.

IINNSSTTEEAADD, clean the bowl liner with”Compost Quick”, or very hot water and baking soda.

2. Do NNOOTTadd plastic, glass, metal, cleaning fluids, cigarettes. Add only waste and bulking material.

3. Kitchen or garden waste are NNOOTTrecommended.

4. Do NOT

add baby wipes of feminine paper as they will not compost.

Toilet paper is a good source of carbon and should be added after use.

- 14 - - 15 -

Ongoing Toilet Maintenance

The procedure below is designed to keep the compost:

- Moist, but not too wet

- Well aerated and mixed

- Well balanced and aerobic

Your fertilizer is ready.

- This is a good time to remove peat

debris

Frees space in the composting

chamber for the new seasons com-

posting.

- Raises moisture level

- Even though the compost still has

microbes in it, you may want to start

the year by replenishing your batch

of microbes.

- Compost Quick helps to accelerate the

action of the microbes.

- Maintains the carbon/nitrogen

balance

- Absorbs liquid

- Helps oxygen penetrate for aerobic

composting

- Mixes and oxygenates the compost

- unplugging unit will conserve power

and keep compost from drying.

- addition of water helps keep the

compost moist

- Moves some compost to the next

stage for finishing

- Ensures that the drum does not get

too full

- Provides extra time for composting

to be completed

Add 1 cupful (or 2 handfuls) of Sun-Mar Compost Sure Blue(or100% non-anti-

bacterial wood shavings) to the Bio-Drum per person per day of use.

Turn Handle to rotate the drum 6 complete revolutions(36 - 40 turns of the

handle), three times a week when in use, or, if used only at weekends, only on

departure. DO NOT forget to return the drum opening to a position under the

waste pipe.

Unplug the unit if you are leaving for a period of more than a few days. If you

are leaving one weekend and coming back the next, you may unplug the unit.

Consider installing a timer to shut the unit off after 48 hours to evaporate excess

liquid. If you are leaving for a period of more than a few days, or the compost

appears dry, add approximately 1/2 gallon of warm water to keep the compost

moist.

Extract some compost into the finishing drawer when the drum is 1/2 full. It is

1/2 full when the compost reaches a level about 4-6 inches below the drum door

when the door is open.

To empty some compost into the drawer, pull the drum locker button and rotate the

handle counter-clockwise (to turn the drum clockwise). Turn at the same speed

you would normally do for mixing. If necessary, use the rake to level the compost

in the drawer. If there is not enough compost in the drawer, turn the drum back-

wards (clockwise) again 1 rotation.

Leave the compost in the finishing drawer to finish for 3-4 weeks or until you next

need to remove compost from the drum. We recommend storing compost in a con-

tainer before using.

If your unit is used seasonally and is not used heavily,

you may not have to remove any compost at all during

the season. If so, follow “Annual Startups”.

Periodic Check Up

- Ensures drains cannot get plugged and

evaporation is improved.

- A good compost is between 40% and

60% moisture content.

- Prevents lumps, ensures toilet paper

breaks down quickly.

- Prevents insects

- Prevents liquid from accumulating in

the drum.

- Keeps compost from getting

anaerobic.

Rake peat moss debris from the evaporation chamber, making sure to rake from

the rear of the chamber, including the back two corners of the unit. Raking should

occur on a twice yearly basis for cottages (best done at annual startups), and a bi-

monthly period for continuous users.

Check your compost moisture level on each visit for cottage users and once

every two weeks for continuous users. This can be done by shining a light into the

Bio-Drum. The compost should have a slight gloss or shine to it. A moisture meter

may also be used if so desired. Range should be 4-6, which represents 40% to

60%

Clean the drum screen. Remove the finishing drawer. The drum screen is locat-

ed to the left of the drawer. Spray the drum screen with Compost Quick and let sit

for 15 minutes (this will help to loosen the debris if the screen is not too encrust-

ed). Scrub the screen vigorously with the wire brush. If brushing the screen does

not clear it and liquid is still not draining through the screen, use a screwdriver or

nail to puncture each hole in the drum screen.

Once your unit has been through initial or annual start-ups, and ongoing maintenance procedures are being followed,

Sun-Mar recommends a system of periodic checks be undertaken.

Action Reason for Action

Annual Start Up (seasonal units only)

Many units are only used regularly throughout the summer. For such seasonal units Sun-Mar recommends that the

following start up procedure be followed at the beginning of the season.

Action Reason for Action

Empty the compost that had been left in the finishing drawer, and use the rake to

clean out the evaporation chamber.

Remove additional drawers of compost (if there is more than 6 - 8” in the

drum), by releasing the drum lock (white button on right side of unit), and rotating

the drum clockwise (the handle turns counter-clockwise) to extract compost into the

drawer. (At the beginning of the season, it will all be finished compost) Empty the

drawer and repeat extraction cycle until the level in the drum is reduced to about 6”

Add 1 gallon of warm water.

As an option for optimal composting,

Add SUN-MAR “Microbe Mix” . We do not recommend using topsoil as it may contain

fly larvae.

SUN-MAR “Compost Quick” enzyme can also be used as a compost accelerant.

Action Reason for Action

**Sealand Toilet users;

Removal of the Sealand Water Valve is advised for winter months where the toilet portion may be

exposed to freezing temperatures. The plastic housing of the water valve will crack if any moisture is left inside, necessitat-

ing the replacement of this part which is NOT covered under your warranty.

- 14 - - 15 -

Ongoing Toilet Maintenance

The procedure below is designed to keep the compost:

- Moist, but not too wet

- Well aerated and mixed

- Well balanced and aerobic

Your fertilizer is ready.

- This is a good time to remove peat

debris

Frees space in the composting

chamber for the new seasons com-

posting.

- Raises moisture level

- Even though the compost still has

microbes in it, you may want to start

the year by replenishing your batch

of microbes.

- Compost Quick helps to accelerate the

action of the microbes.

- Maintains the carbon/nitrogen

balance

- Absorbs liquid

- Helps oxygen penetrate for aerobic

composting

- Mixes and oxygenates the compost

- unplugging unit will conserve power

and keep compost from drying.

- addition of water helps keep the

compost moist

- Moves some compost to the next

stage for finishing

- Ensures that the drum does not get

too full

- Provides extra time for composting

to be completed

Add 1 cupful (or 2 handfuls) of Sun-Mar Compost Sure Blue(or100% non-anti-

bacterial wood shavings) to the Bio-Drum per person per day of use.

Turn Handle to rotate the drum 6 complete revolutions(36 - 40 turns of the

handle), three times a week when in use, or, if used only at weekends, only on

departure. DO NOT forget to return the drum opening to a position under the

waste pipe.

Unplug the unit if you are leaving for a period of more than a few days. If you

are leaving one weekend and coming back the next, you may unplug the unit.

Consider installing a timer to shut the unit off after 48 hours to evaporate excess

liquid. If you are leaving for a period of more than a few days, or the compost

appears dry, add approximately 1/2 gallon of warm water to keep the compost

moist.

Extract some compost into the finishing drawer when the drum is 1/2 full. It is

1/2 full when the compost reaches a level about 4-6 inches below the drum door

when the door is open.

To empty some compost into the drawer, pull the drum locker button and rotate the

handle counter-clockwise (to turn the drum clockwise). Turn at the same speed

you would normally do for mixing. If necessary, use the rake to level the compost

in the drawer. If there is not enough compost in the drawer, turn the drum back-

wards (clockwise) again 1 rotation.

Leave the compost in the finishing drawer to finish for 3-4 weeks or until you next

need to remove compost from the drum. We recommend storing compost in a con-

tainer before using.

If your unit is used seasonally and is not used heavily,

you may not have to remove any compost at all during

the season. If so, follow “Annual Startups”.

Periodic Check Up

- Ensures drains cannot get plugged and

evaporation is improved.

- A good compost is between 40% and

60% moisture content.

- Prevents lumps, ensures toilet paper

breaks down quickly.

- Prevents insects

- Prevents liquid from accumulating in

the drum.

- Keeps compost from getting

anaerobic.

Rake peat moss debris from the evaporation chamber, making sure to rake from

the rear of the chamber, including the back two corners of the unit. Raking should

occur on a twice yearly basis for cottages (best done at annual startups), and a bi-

monthly period for continuous users.

Check your compost moisture level on each visit for cottage users and once

every two weeks for continuous users. This can be done by shining a light into the

Bio-Drum. The compost should have a slight gloss or shine to it. A moisture meter

may also be used if so desired. Range should be 4-6, which represents 40% to

60%

Clean the drum screen. Remove the finishing drawer. The drum screen is locat-

ed to the left of the drawer. Spray the drum screen with Compost Quick and let sit

for 15 minutes (this will help to loosen the debris if the screen is not too encrust-

ed). Scrub the screen vigorously with the wire brush. If brushing the screen does

not clear it and liquid is still not draining through the screen, use a screwdriver or

nail to puncture each hole in the drum screen.

Once your unit has been through initial or annual start-ups, and ongoing maintenance procedures are being followed,

Sun-Mar recommends a system of periodic checks be undertaken.

Action Reason for Action

Annual Start Up (seasonal units only)

Many units are only used regularly throughout the summer. For such seasonal units Sun-Mar recommends that the

following start up procedure be followed at the beginning of the season.

Action Reason for Action

Empty the compost that had been left in the finishing drawer, and use the rake to

clean out the evaporation chamber.

Remove additional drawers of compost (if there is more than 6 - 8” in the

drum), by releasing the drum lock (white button on right side of unit), and rotating

the drum clockwise (the handle turns counter-clockwise) to extract compost into the

drawer. (At the beginning of the season, it will all be finished compost) Empty the

drawer and repeat extraction cycle until the level in the drum is reduced to about 6”

Add 1 gallon of warm water.

As an option for optimal composting,

Add SUN-MAR “Microbe Mix” . We do not recommend using topsoil as it may contain

fly larvae.

SUN-MAR “Compost Quick” enzyme can also be used as a compost accelerant.

Action Reason for Action

**Sealand Toilet users;

Removal of the Sealand Water Valve is advised for winter months where the toilet portion may be

exposed to freezing temperatures. The plastic housing of the water valve will crack if any moisture is left inside, necessitat-

ing the replacement of this part which is NOT covered under your warranty.

- 16 - - 13 -

Chapter 4

Compost Troubleshooting

This chapter will deal with problem that may arise with your compost, what is required to make your compost healthy

and how to correct problems if they arise.

Aerobic Compost Requirements

In a Sun-Mar, a good compost is predominantly aerobic, which

means that oxygen is available for aerobic bacteria throughout

the Bio-drum. Aerobic bacteria consume waste quickly and

odorlessly to produce carbon dioxide and water vapor and

leave behind a small fraction of the original waste volume in

the form of basic minerals. The end compost is a mix of valu-

able minerals and bulking material that has not decomposed.

To work effectively to break down waste, aerobic bacteria need

oxygen, moisture, available carbon (from the bulking material),

and warmth.

In a Sun-Mar, oxygen is provided by the tumbling of the drum

and the bulking material leaving free air space within the com-

post. Moisture is provided by the waste, and is made available

to aerobic bacteria by the moisture retention properties of the

bulking material. If the compost is too dry, add warm water.

In summary, to keep the compost aerobic, it is important to

rotate the drum, add bulking material, and keep the compost

moist.

Oxygen

Lack of oxygen becomes a problem where:

- Too much moisture eliminates the free air space,

- A lack of bulking material limits free air space,

- Aerobic bacteria use up oxygen in the compost.

Lack of oxygen causes the compost to become increasingly

anaerobic, which means that aerobic bacteria are displaced by

anaerobic bacteria. Anaerobic bacteria work slowly and pro-

duce undesirable ammonia, hydrogen sulfide, and methane.

Consequently, the maintenance of ‘free air’ space by periodi-

cally rotating the drum and adding the right bulking material is

very important in Sun-Mar units. Excessive rotation is not

helpful and can harm the compost by disturbing the bacteria

too much.

Moisture

If there is too much moisture, and the compost is approaching

saturation, oxygen is pushed out and anaerobic activity pre-

dominates. On the other hand, if there is too little moisture,

aerobic activity slows. For this reason, it is important to main-

tain adequate moisture levels (40-60% moisture content is

ideal). Generally, if you shine a flashlight in after mixing, there

should be a slight sheen of moisture on your compost.

Warmth

Too little warmth will cause aerobic activity to slow. Below 55-

60 degrees F., microbes will go dormant and composting will

stop. Composting speeds increase dramatically with tempera-

ture.

Characteristics of a Bad Compost

If your compost is over 8 weeks old and it exhibits one or more

of the following characteristics , then an operating change is

indicated.

 Extraction required too often (under 4

weeks)

 Large Lumps present in compost

 Compost muddy or clay-like

 Flies present (this may also be a problem

with foreign matter being added to unit; see

section on flies)

 Compost has strong unpleasant smell of

sewage when drum is turned.

 Toilet paper present in finishing drawer

Troubleshooting

In using this troubleshooting section, you should follow reme-

dial action in the order that they are given, unless you are sure

of the problem. You should see improvement in a week, and

your compost should be back to normal in 2-3 weeks. If it is

not, make sure that “Ongoing Toilet Maintenance” is being fol-

lowed and check the mechanical troubleshooting section.

One full bag peat mix to the drum.

1/2 Microbe Mix packet at start up, other 1/2 in two weeks

About 1 gallon of warm water into the drum

Fan and heater are operating

“Compost Quick” enzymes into drum before and after mixing.

Coat the evaporation chamber with it before using the unit.

Loose bulking mixture from the evaporating chamber until the

compost is established, which takes approximately 6 weeks.

Black evaporating tray under drum screen to the left of the

drawer.

-Provides carbon base and initial mass

for compost.

-Adds necessary microbes which will

breakdown the compost.

-Moistens carbon base

-The unit is ready for use

-Speeds start up of compost by acting as

a catalyst to assist bacteria.

-Prevents possibility of start-up odor in

the evaporating chamber.

-Until the compost is active, some peat

moss may fall through the screen or

drum door into the evaporating chamber

Extends the surface area of evaporation

chamber

Chapter 3

Start Up and Use

Although the start up instructions remain the same no matter what your application, different situations will

require different actions and this chapter will explain what they are.

Initial System Start Up

Begin operation by carrying out the start up procedure described below, and then continue with the “Ongoing Toilet

Maintenance” routine. It normally takes six weeks before a compost is properly established. You will know this has

happened when: - Compost Volume increases more slowly

- Compost turns black and becomes loam-like

- Toilet paper decomposes within a few days

Action Why?

ADD

SPRINKLE

PLUG IN

SPRAY

RAKE

POSITION

CAUTION

1. Do NNOOTTadd or clean the toilet bowl with chemicals. Chemicals will kill the bacteria.

IINNSSTTEEAADD, clean the bowl liner with”Compost Quick”, or very hot water and baking soda.

2. Do NNOOTTadd plastic, glass, metal, cleaning fluids, cigarettes. Add only waste and bulking material.

3. Kitchen or garden waste are NNOOTTrecommended.

4. Do NOT

add baby wipes of feminine paper as they will not compost.

Toilet paper is a good source of carbon and should be added after use.

12 Volt Fan

Installation

(AC/DC and

NE)

Every Sun-Mar AC/DC and NE model comes with a 12 Volt Fan for installation in the 4” stack. Its instal-

lation is required in the following situations:

-If you are installing both 2” (50mm)and 4” (100mm)vent stacks (prevents downdraft from

the 4” (100mm) vent in the AC/DC units)

-If you are in an area where you are subject to downdraft

-If you are using the unit residentially

-If you need to install the vent stack with bends

We include the 12 volt fan with the AC/DC unit because many AC/DC owners do install both vent stacks. It

may also be installed later if you wish simply by cutting a

section out of your vent and replacing it with the fan.

To install the fan initially, pick a spot on the stack that you

can reach easily. In order to get the best evaporative per-

formance from the fan, install it near the composting unit if

possible (remember, the fan will still not be enough to evap-

orate all liquids in a non-electric or DC only environment).

Once you have placed it where you wish, use silicone caulk-

ing, or rubberized couplings, to make the installation airtight.

Do not use glue at this area as you may need to change the

fan at a later date.

The 12 Volt Fan may be powered with a battery that is con-

nected to a generator, solar panel, or other alternative ener-

gy system. For use in AC, purchase a 12 Volt to AC Adapter

from any electrical store and snip off the female end - wire

the positive wire to the red wire on the fan, and the negative

wire to the blue wire on the fan. Tie them off with small wire

connectors, and plug your AC Adapter into the wall.

The 12 Volt Fan should be continuously running if used, as if it is not running it will act as a block in the

vent stack.

Symptom Cause Remedial Action Prevention

Use Sun-Mar Compost Sure Blue

100% wood shavings as a bulking

material.

Rotate the drum as advised. Do not

allow the drum to become too full.

Follow section on moisture in

“PERIODIC CHECKUP”.

Use toilet for urination.

Add correct bulking material.

Be sure to add Microbe Mix packet

at startup.

Install unit in warm area. The

warmer the area, the better your

compost will be! If evening temper-

atures fall below the prescribed

temperatures on a residential unit,

consider installing a heat source on

a timer for evenings.

Never add bleach or cleaning chemi-

cals.

Add water or flush toilet to moisten

compost.

Compost

Too Wet

Your compost

is too wet when

there are

standing pools

of liquid.

Compost will

smell of sewage

and is

anaerobic

Compost

Too Dry

Compost is too

dry when com-

post looks flat

and brown rather

than rich and

black.

Waste not

Breaking

Down at all

If this is the case,

the drum will fill

up quickly

Compost porosity is

poor. Too much

peat moss has been

used as a bulking

material. This is

compacting, pre-

venting liquid from

draining through,

and leaving no free

air space for oxy-

gen.

Drum screen

clogged

Moisture not being

added periodically

or before departure

on cottage units.

Toilet not used for

urination.

Insufficient bulking

material or not

enough peat moss.

Insufficient Microbes

Room Temperature

under 60F/15C

Bleach or other anti-

bacterial chemicals

added.

Compost too dry

For an immediate improvement in porosity add

about 1/2 (2 liters) gallon of wood shavings,

(not anti-bacterial) to the drum.

On an ongoing basis, change bulking material to

Compost Sure Blue or 100% wood shavings.

Remove the finishing drawer. The drum screen is

to the left of the finishing drawer opening. Spray

the drum screen with Compost Quick and let set

for 15 minutes. With a long handled wire brush,

vigorously scrub the drum screen.

Add 1/2 to 1 gallon (2-4 liters)of warm water

to compost in order to bring it up to appropriate

moisture level.

Peat moss retains moisture. 40-60% moisture

content is ideal for aerobic microbes to thrive.

Add Sun-Mar Microbe Mix

Install heat source to increase temperature.

Temperature should be kept above 55-60F/15C

constantly if toilet will be used on an ongoing

basis.

Empty drum. Hose out inside of drum. Restart

compost according to “Initial System Startups”.

Bacteria need moisture to live and move within

the compost. Compost should be quite moist,

40-60% moisture content.

- 12 - - 17 -

Vent

Piping

Installation

(Cont’d)

Leading the

vent

through the

roof

The Diffusor

Electrical

Considerat-

ions

(Electric and

AC/DC)

vent pipe being blocked by condensation which would cause a urine smell in your bathroom.

iii) All connectors in the vent pipe should be sealed. Use

silicone

for

the

connection

the

vent

stack

the

toilet

case

the

composting

unit

has

moved

you

have

access

the

fan. PVC cement

may be used in the rest of the stack installation if desired.

iv) All exposed 2” vent pipe should be insulated with the foam insulation. This is especially important

for winter or residential use.

v) The Sun-Mar 12 Volt fan is fitted inside a 11” (280mm) length of 4”(100mm) vent pipe for easy

installation, should it be needed. It is installed by either cutting out a section of the vent immediately

above the composting unit, or by raising the vent stack off of the composting unit and inserting the

fan section. The fan can be used with a solar panel and 12 volt battery, or by purchasing a 12 volt

adapter from your local hardware store and simply plugging it into the wall.

As shown in the installation, the vent stack should end

about 30” (75mm)above the peak of the roof so that it is

less subject to downdraft. Where the piping is taken

through the roof, the roof flashing provided should be

used to seal the installation. Insert the vent into the bell

of the roof flashing and slide the roof flashing down until

it lays evenly on the roof. Slip the upper edge or the roof

flashing flange under the shingles. Outline the flashing on

the roof. Raise the roof flashing and apply silicone

sealant or roofing tar inside the outline. Slide the flashing

back into place and firmly press onto the sealant. The

flashing is properly placed when the top part of the roof

flashing flange is tucked under the shingles and the lower

portion is sealed on top of the shingles so that water

sheds easily. Secure the flashing with corrosion resistant

nails at each corner and along sides. Any exposed nails

should be sealed with silicone caulking.

The diffusor provided with the unit is a simple device to

be installed at the top of the vent stack with the larger

pipe protruding above the smaller. To install, simply

glue the diffusor on the topmost section of vent pipe.

The diffusor design encourages updraft, and discour-

ages wind and weather from going down the vent

stack. Unlike wind turbines, diffusors are less likely to

freeze up in winter, and are more effective in calm

weather.

A ground fault interrupter (GFI) circuit is recommended to protect your composting unit from electrical

problems. This may be installed directly on the wall socket or at the circuit breaker.

Symptom Cause Remedial Action Prevention

Waste not

Breaking

Down at all

(cont'd’)

Lumps

If many large

lumps have

formed in drum,

you will need to

remove them or

break them up

with the rake

tool. Follow the

prevention col-

umn to ensure

this does not

happen.

Drum Too

Full

Note: The drum

is too full when it

is over 1/2 full,

and the door is

not closing prop-

erly.

Antibiotics being

used for more than

a few weeks on a

continuous basis

may kill bacteria

Compost Too Dry

Over-Rotation of

Drum

Peat moss used as

bulking material

with no wood shav-

ings.

Compost not emp-

tied into finishing

drawer in a timely

fashion.

Kitchen/Garden

Waste added

When used normally, antibiotics will

only slightly slow compost. Add

Sun-Mar Microbe Mix and/or

Compost Quick during this period to

accelerate compost action.

Urinating elsewhere during this

period will also help minimize the

damage to the compost.

Follow recommendations for check-

ing and adding moisture in “PERI-

ODIC CHECKUP”.

Drum should be turned every sec-

ond day (when in use), 6 rotations

of the drum (36-40 of handle)

each time.

Use proper bulking material.

When drum is 1/2 full, remove

some compost to the finishing

drawer by rotating the drum back-

wards, to avoid surprise over-filling

of drum. Do NOT let drum get

above 1/2 full. (The drum is 1/2 full

when the level of the compost

reaches 4-6 inches(100-150mm)

below where the drum door hangs)

This will lead to lack of aeration,

and anaerobic compost, and the

inconvenience of having to remove

more than one drawer.

Do Not add kitchen or garden

waste.

Empty drum. Rinse out inside of drum, being

careful that liquid does not overflow out of the

drawer opening. Restart compost according to

“Initial System Startups”.

Follow instructions for “Compost Too Dry” on

page 17. And also add 1/2 gallon (2 liters) of

warm water.

Follow “ONGOING TOILET MAINTENANCE” on page

15, and also add 1/2 gallon(2 liters) of wood

shavings.

Begin using 100% wood shavings, as bulking

material.

1. Remove compost until drum is only half full or

less. Rotate compost thoroughly to aerate,

and add compost accelerants (Compost Quick

and Microbe Mix) if available.

2. If you need to dump more than one drawer of

compost, and you do not already have a suit-

able backyard compost heap, you may try an

open-slatted wooden crate (such as the kind

used to pack age fruits and vegetables).

Layer compost with bulking material and

leave crate outside for around 2 months to

finish composting.

- 11 -

- 18 -

- 10 - - 19 -

Symptom Cause Remedial Action Prevention

1 .To get rid of flies, you can use any pesticide

that is used on your garden. Pesticides used

for garden use are not anti-bacterial so are

safe to use on your compost. If you prefer not

to use a pesticide in your compost, the unit

should be cleaned out completely and washed

with soapy water to kill any remaining eggs.

Once the unit is washed, it should be rinse

well to remove all traces of soap before

restarting the compost.

If using a pesticide to kill the insects, it maybe

purchased from a local garden center or

hardware store.

2. Natural larvacide that can be used in the com-

post is bacillus thuringiensis israelensis or BT i.

This is a natural aerobic bacteria that is found in

soil. The fly larvae ingest this bacteria.Once BT i

has been ingested by the larvae, it releases a

crystal in the larvae that essentially cuts the lar-

vae up. This does take about 2 weeks to work

since it kills the larvae, not the adult flies. This

can by purchased at stores that sell pond sup-

plies. The product name is Aqua-Bac or there is

another called Mosquito Dunks that is available

to consumers. Either of these products should

be dissolved in water and used as a soak for the

compost. This should be repeated every 2 days

for a week to make sure that all larvae are cov-

ered.

3. The other alternative to using pesticides is to

completely clean the toilet out, wash the inside

with soap and water

IMPORTANT:

Application of a pesticide in a Sun-Mar composter

is not a health concern because all Sun-Mar units

are vented. If using pesticides, avoid spilling on

the outer shell of the composter.

1. Keep compost moist. In order to

determine a good level of mois

ture, shine a flashlight into the

drum. The compost should have a

slight gloss or shine. If it does

not, add warm water to it until it

reaches this consistency. Fungus

gnats tend to be attracted to a

dry compost, due to the fungus

which begins to form on the sur

face when it dries out. A good,

moist compost will not be attrac

tive to flies.

2. Do not add topsoil from the

ground, composted matter, or

kitchen scraps to the toilet. Flies

may be present in, or attracted

to these items.

3. If toilet is installed over an old

septic line,make sure that the

lines are well sealed. Insects find

unused lines attractive.

4.See “Compost Remediation” if the

compost smells- anaerobic com

post will attract flies and drastical

ly reduce the performance of your

composting unit.

5. Use “Compost Sure Blue” or a

mixture of peat moss and

non-cedar wood shavings.

-compost too dry

-compost anaerobic

-kitchen/garden

waste added

-foreign material

added

The following are possible options to take care of the liquid:

- Use a container which is emptied periodically (water jug or small

barrel). This ensures a closed loop system.

- Feed into a lined pit filled with gravel and sand. Such a recycling

bed also ensures a closed loop system.

- Feed into a small cesspit or “french drain”.

-Plumb into an existing septic or holding tank line.

Installation should be in accordance with applicable local regulations.

If running the vent pipe through a wall, it should be done with an upward sloping angle(as shown in the

picture below). There should be NO horizontal or downward sloping sections. Installing the vent pipe

with horizontal or downward sloping sections will result in a urine odor around the composting unit.

Below are some examples of a desireable installation. If the unit will be used in colder weather, all

exposed 2” vent pipes should be insulated to reduce freezing and condensation.

The vent on the right is a 4” (100mm)

non-electric vent.

All others show possible 2” (50mm)

Centrex 2000 (electric) vent configura-

tions.

If you believe that there may be a downdraft outside of the building,

it may be a good idea to remove your fan assembly prior to installa-

tion and set the fan gate to ‘0’ to prevent urine odor in the bath-

room. The fan gate is factory set to ‘3’, which recirculates air within

the unit. If there is a downdraft you may get blow back into the

room where the unit is installed. When setting the fan gate to ‘0’,

you may lose some evaporation.

Piping and fittings are of standard 2” PVC thin wall tubing(central vacuum) and/or 4” (100ml) ABS thin

wall pipe. Additional pipe or fittings can be purchased from a building supply dealer. If you cannot find

them near your location, you can substitute schedule 40 pipe and use a rubber coupling to join this pipe

to the unit.

i) Minimize the number of sharp angles in the 2” (50ml) vent as each reduces vent efficiency. The

4”(100ml) vent should be installed as near to vertical as possible. It is recommended if it is

necessary to have angles in the 4” (100ml) vent pipe that 45 degree angles are used whenever

possible. On the 4” (100ml) DC stack, bends should be limited to 2 - 45 degree angles. will

necessitate the installation of a 12 volt fan.

ii) Do not lead the 2” (50ml) vent pipe downward or horizontally at any point. This may lead to the

Flies

Present

Handling

Effluent

Vent Piping

Location

Adjusting

the fan

gate(Electric

and AC/DC)

Vent

Piping

Installation

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