SWELL CATAMARANS Shadow User manual

SHADOW ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
SWELL CATAMARANS
Shadow
Assembly Instructions

SHADOW ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
SWELL CATAMARANS
Shadow Assembly Instructions
Disclaimer
While the content of this document arises from careful study, the author cannot in any
way guarantee the suitability of any recommendations made, and shall not be under legal
liability of any kind in respect of or arising from the content of this document or any error
therein, or the reliance of any person thereon.
The author makes no representations or warranties, express or implied, of any type
whatsoever.
Author: Tim Swinburn
Draft 3.0, September 2002
©Loday White Ltd
160 Tower Street, Brightlingsea, Essex, UK
Loday White Ltd (UK): Phone [phone] • E-mail [e-mail]
Loday White Ltd (France): Phone [phone] • E-mail [e-mail]
http://www.swell-catamarans.co.uk
Page i

SHADOW ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
Table of Contents
Introduction 3
Hulls & trampoline 5
Trampoline 5
Spinnaker blocks 6
Dolphin striker 6
Mast 7
Spreaders & diamond wires 7
Main halyard 9
Rigging the mast 9
Raising the mast 11
Trapeze adjusters 12
Mast rake and rig tension 12
Mast rotation 14
Mainsail downhaul 14
Boom 14
Lowering the mast 15
Mainsail 17
Batten tension 17
Hoisting the mainsail 17
Downhaul 18
Outhaul 18
Mainsheet 18
Traveller 18
Lowering the mainsail 19
Spinnaker 21
Outhaul, halyard, downhaul, sheets 21
Hoisting the spinnaker 24
Dropping the spinnaker 25
Foils 27
Daggerboards 27
Rudders 27
Crossbar & tiller 27
Maintenance 29
Before every sail 29
After every sail 29
Periodically 29
Annually 29
Parts and accessories 31
Accessories 31
Spare Parts 31
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SHADOW ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
PAGE INTENTIONALLY BLANK

SHADOW ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
I
T
b
s
K
T
ntroduction
he Shadow is a single-handed catamaran with mainsail and spinnaker. It has
een designed for high-performance sailing. The boat uses simple control
ystems and high quality fittings, with the lightweight hulls constructed from
evlar foam sandwich for maximum durability.
hese Assembly Instructions are intended to assist you in assembling the
Shadow, provide guidance with initial settings and make recommendations for
sailing the boat.
Sectio
n
1
These two icons indicate vital information for the safe
assembly and use of your Shadow, or suggested settings
from Yves Loday or Tim Swinburn.
ICON KEY
 Vital information
 Suggested setting
Vital statistics
SCHR handicap 1,07
Portsmouth yardstick 723
LOA 4,80 m
Width 2,40 m
Spinnaker 9,90 m2
Mainsail 12,95 m2
Mast height 8,0 m
Weight (ready to sail) 99,0 kgs
Hull construction Kevlar ™foam sandwich
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SHADOW ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
PAGE INTENTIONALLY BLANK
Page 4

SHADOW ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
Hulls & trampoline
The hulls and beams are supplied ready assembled, with the following tasks
required before sailing the boat for the first time.
Trampoline
The boat is supplied with the trampoline and spinnaker chute fitting attached
to the front beam. To ensure even tension the trampoline is secured and
tensioned by five ropes: two cords which feed from the front beam through
the trampoline to the rear beam, by a securing rope from the rear of the
trampoline to the rear beam, and by two spinnaker block ropes from the side
of the trampoline to the hulls.
Sectio
n
2
1. Unroll the trampoline from around
the front beam and attach the two
trampoline cords to the hasps on
each side of the rear beam. Tension
each of the cords in turn, and secure
with half-hitches.
2. Feed one of the spinnaker block
ropes down through the eye in the
trampoline, so that the spinnaker
block shackle is above the
trampoline.
3. Feed the spinnaker block rope
through the stainless fitting by the
daggerboard, then through the
webbing loop on the side of the
trampoline. Fully tighten the rope and
secure with half hitches.
4. Repeat steps 2. and 3. for the second
spinnaker block rope.
5. Feed the trampoline tube through the rear of the trampoline. Attach the
rear trampoline securing rope to the centre of the tube so that the
trampoline can be tensioned outwards from the centre to each side.
6. Feed one half of the trampoline securing rope around the hasps on the rear
beam and the trampoline tube, as shown in the picture; secure with half-
hitches. Repeat for the other half of the trampoline securing rope.
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SHADOW ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
7. Tension the trampoline by pulling through all of the slack in the rear
trampoline securing rope, working
from the centre out to each side of
the trampoline. This may need to be
repeated several times to fully
tension the trampoline.
8. Re-tension the two trampoline
cords on each side of the rear beam,
to take up any slack.
9. Re-tension the two spinnaker block ropes, to take up any slack.
Spinnaker blocks
10. Attach the auto-ratchet spinnaker blocks to the shackles in the trampoline.
The pressure at which the ratchet mechanism engages in the spinnaker
blocks is adjustable, by turning the nut at the end of the block.
Dolphin striker
The dolphin striker below the front beam must be tensioned to resist
downwards pressure from the mast and rig during sailing.
11. There is an adjuster nut and a lock nut, which should both be loosened to
ensure that there is no dolphin striker tension already applied, then adjust
the first nut until it is just finger tight on the dolphin striker.
12. Make a mark on the thread above the nut (with a permanent marker), and
then tension the adjuster nut with a spanner until the mark is
approximately 6mm above the nut.
13. Lock the adjuster nut in place by tightening the lock nut down onto it.
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SHADOW ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
Page 7
M
T
s
w
c
p
B
C
A
ast
he rotating Shadow mast uses a lightweight aluminium extrusion, with
trength and gust response provided by adjustable spreaders and diamond
ires. A mast spanner on the base of the mast controls mast rotation, with
ontrol lines led to the sides of the boat. A powerful downhaul system
rovides control over mainsail shape and power, with control lines led to the
side of the boat.
Sectio
n
3
Spreaders & diamond wires
Spreader rake and diamond wire tension determines the response of the mast
(and therefore the mainsail) to gusts
and to crew weight. If the spreader rake
and diamond wire tension are set
correctly the mast shape will remain
stable and powerful to a suitable point
for your crew weight; then as the wind
becomes too powerful the forces in the
rig will exceed the supporting tension
of the diamond wires and the mast will
flex and start to de-power the rig.
The Shadow has three settings for spreader rake, selected by the clevis pins
attaching the rear of the spreaders to the mast.
A. Maximum power (spreaders fully
forward): suitable for heavier
crews, or light winds.
B. Medium power: suitable for most
crews and wind conditions.
C. Minimum power (spreaders fully
raked): suitable for lighter crews
or strong winds.
My spreaders
weight well. I
can still manag

are in the ‘B’ position, which suits my (75 kg)
am fully powered up in 15 knots of breeze, but
e the boat in force 5 gusting 6 conditions.
Attaching spreaders & diamond wires
1. Set the spreaders in your desired position, taping the split rings for security.
2. Hook the top diamond wire fittings into the key-holes in the sides of the
mast.

SHADOW ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
3. Attach the turnbuckle at the bottom of the diamond wires to the shackle
on the front of the mast, taping the split ring for security.
4. Tension the diamond wires with the turnbuckle, until the mast prebend is
approximately 38mm (1.5”) – this can be measured by pulling a thin cord
tight between the tip and bottom of the mast and measuring the distance
from the cord to the mast track.
5. Once the correct prebend is achieved, look down the mast track from the
tip. If the mast bends to one side, unfasten the diamond wires and reverse
the diamond wires then repeat step 4; if this doesn’t cure the bend some
packing will be needed on one diamond wire. Slacken the diamond wires
and fit a piece of packing (e.g. a discarded rivet stem or similar diameter
piece of stainless steel) between the spreader and diamond wire. Re-tension
the diamond wires until the prebend is approximately 38mm (1.5”), then
look down the mast track and check for any bend. Repeat with different
diameter packing until the mast is straight.
6. S
C
h
lacken the diamond wires and use silicone sealant to
OMPLETELY fill the holes where the top diamond fittings
ook into the sides of the mast.
7. R
a
s
p
s
a
e-tension the diamond wires until the prebend is
pproximately 38mm (1.5”). Use silicone sealant to completely
eal around the diamond fittings, then secure the small
rotective plastic covers over the diamond fittings with
ilicone sealant. Take care that the diamond fittings are
bsolutely sealed in the mast, since any gaps will allow water
into the mast and make capsize recovery difficult.


8. U
s
f
s

se rigging wire to secure the diamond wires into the
preaders. Use PVC tape around the spreader ends and the
ront of the spreaders, to reduce the risk of snagging the
pinnaker.
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SHADOW ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
9. Lock the turnbuckle in place with the securing pin to prevent
loss of diamond tension during sailing, which could result in
rig failure.
Main halyard

1. Feed the mainsail halyard around the pulley at the tip of the mast into the
mast track.
2. Use a screwdriver or knife-blade to feed the end of the halyard down the
track and out through the slot near the base of the mast.
3. Tie a stop knot in the bottom end of the main halyard, and use a stop knot
to secure the ring shackle for the mainsail to the other end of the halyard.
Rigging the mast
Rigging and raising the mast is easier if the mast support on the trailer is used
to support the mast tip while the rigging is attached.
1. Place the mast on its side with the foot of
the mast on the mast ball, with the mast
ball within the cutout in the fitting on the
base of the mast. Place the tip of the mast
on the trailer mast support.
2. In preparation for raising the mast, the
downhaul blocks should be secured
together at the rear of the mast (for
example with tape); this will reduce the
chance of damaging the blocks while the
mast is being raised.
3. Fit the shrouds and forestay to
the hounds shackle, with the
forestay between the two
shrouds. Attach the shackle to
the hound fitting on the mast,
with the shackle pin passing
through a trapeze fitting either
side of the hound, so that the
trapeze fittings act as spacers
between the shackle and the
hound fitting.
4. Fully tighten the shackle, and secure with rigging wire.
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SHADOW ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
5. Attach a piece of thin shockcord between the
two shrouds at spreader height. This reduces
the likelihood of the spinnaker halyard getting
caught behind the spreaders. Ensure that the
forestay is in front of this shockcord.
6. Attach the port and starboard shrouds to their shroud
plates, securing the split rings with tape.
My shrouds are attached to the middle (4th) hole, which
gives me mast rake suitable for most conditions.

7. Feed the spinnaker halyard through the halyard block tied to the top of the
forestay; ensure that both ends of the spinnaker halyard are IN FRONT of
the shockcord between the shrouds.
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SHADOW ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
Raising the mast
Because of it’s light weight one person can raise the Shadow mast, using the
spinnaker halyard and cleat to hold the mast up while the forestay strops are
tied to the bridle plates.
1. Secure one end of the spinnaker halyard with a bowline around the front
beam, by the mast ball.
2. Feed the other end of the spinnaker halyard through the spinnaker outhaul
pulley on the bridle. Push the pivoting cover on the spinnaker halyard
clutch forward to OPEN the clutch, and then feed the halyard through the
clutch.
OPEN
3. Push the pivoting clutch cover back to LOCK the clutch on the spinnaker
halyard.
Page 11
LOCK

SHADOW ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
4. Feed the end of the spinnaker halyard through the spinnaker halyard pulley
in the middle of the trampoline, then tie a stop knot in the end of the
halyard. Note that the halyard must be pulled from behind the pulley, to
prevent the clutch releasing to OPEN mode!
5. Stand on the trampoline near the rear beam with the end of the spinnaker
halyard in one hand, lifting the mast as you move towards the front beam;
pull the spinnaker halyard through the pulley as the mast is raised, to hold
the mast up.
6. E
p
u
7. Step off the tr
nsure that the spinnaker halyard clutch is still in the LOCK
osition, and that the spinnaker halyard is securing the mast
pright.
ampoline and fasten the port and starboard forestay strops
through the shackles on the bridle plates, making sure that both forestay
strops are the same length.

8. Once both forestay strops are secured untie the stop knot in the end of the
spinnaker halyard, push the pivoting cover on the spinnaker halyard clutch
forward to OPEN the clutch. Remove the spinnaker halyard from the
clutch and untie the other end of the halyard from the front beam.
Trapeze adjusters
The trapeze loops, ropes and shockcord are supplied as an assembly. Feed a
trapeze rope through the adjuster on one trapeze wire, and then tie a stop knot
in the rope. Pass the other trapeze rope and shockcord under the trampoline
and repeat the process for the second trapeze wire.
Mast rake and rig tension
The shroud plates determine mast rake: attaching the shrouds to lower holes
on the shroud plates increases the amount of mast rake and vice versa. The
forestay strops control rig tension.
Mast rake can be determined by using the trapeze hook and adjuster to
measure the distance from the hounds to the rear beam, and then moving
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SHADOW ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
forward with the trapeze hook and measuring how far in front of the front
beam the bottom of the trapeze hook touches the centreline of the hull.
1. With the mast pointing straight fore and aft lower one trapeze hook until it
is just touching the top of the rear beam, at it’s outside edge; cleat the
trapeze adjuster in this position.
2. Move
of the
My rak
(5”) in
rake su
forward and measure the point where the bottom
trapeze hook touches the centreline of the hull.
e is set so that this point is approximately 125mm
front of the front beam, which gives me mast
itable for most conditions.

3. Adjust the shroud plates and forestay strops and then re-measure the rake
until it is set to your preference.
4. Set the rig tension with the forestay strops so that the mast rotation is not
unduly restricted; check that the mast can be reasonably easily rotated using
the mast spanner.
Ensure that both forestay strops are the same length.
5. Lift up the bridle and secure the ring on the shackle to the forestay with a
2mm Spectra strop.
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SHADOW ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
Mast rotation
Feed the mast rotation control line
through one of the cleats on the mast
spanner, through the fairlead on the
mast spanner, through the turning
block on the trampoline, and then back
through the fairlead and second cleat
on the mast spanner.
Tie off the two ends of the spanner
control line with bowlines to the side of
the boat (normally to the shrouds) for
easy access while sailing.
I set my mast rotation upwind so that the spanner is pointing
towards the leeward shroud in most conditions. In strong
winds I de-rotate the mast so that the spanner points towards
the rear of the daggerboard, which helps de-power the
mainsail.
Downwind I release the spanner to allow maximum rotation.

Mainsail downhaul
Feed the downhaul control line through one of
the swivel-cleats on the side of the mast, through
the pulley of one of the downhaul strops, through
the turning block on the back of the mast, through
the pulley of the second downhaul strop and then
through the second swivel-cleat.
Tie off the two ends of the downhaul control line
with bowlines to the side of the boat (normally to
the shrouds) for easy access while sailing.
Calibration
It may be helpful to use calibration tape on each
side of the mast until you become accustomed to
how the downhaul affects sail-shape and power.
This will enable you to record and re-produce the most effective downhaul
settings for different wind conditions and sea-states.
Boom
The boom is attached to the mast on the
gooseneck, with shockcord to secure the
boom to the mast. It is important that
this shockcord is looped around the
button on the boom, to prevent the
boom separating from the mast during a
capsize.
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SHADOW ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
Lowering the mast
Lowering the mast can be performed single-handed and is the reverse of the
mast raising procedure, using the spinnaker halyard and cleat to hold up the
mast while the forestay strops are untied from the bridle plates.
Lowering the mast is easier if the mast support on the trailer is used to support
the mast tip while the rigging is removed.
1. Position the trailer behind the boat so that the trailer mast support can be
used to support the top of the mast.
2. Release the shockcord retaining the boom and remove the boom from the
gooseneck.
3. Untie and remove the downhaul control line and mast rotation control
line.
4. Untie the spinnaker halyard, outhaul, downhaul and sheets from the
spinnaker and remove the spinnaker from the boat.
5. Tie the end of the spinnaker halyard with a bowline around the front
beam, by the mast ball.
6. Pull the spinnaker outhaul line out of the outhaul pulley and small double
outhaul/halyard pulley.
7. Pull the other end of the spinnaker halyard out of the spinnaker chute, out
of the halyard pulley and Spinlock clutch on the trampoline, out of the
small double halyard/downhaul pulley, and out of the pulley on the front
of the front beam.
8. Feed the end of the spinnaker halyard through the outhaul pulley on the
bridle, then through the Spinlock clutch and halyard pulley on the
trampoline; tie a stop knot in the end of the halyard.
9. Untie the 2mm Spectra strop from the ring on the bridle.
10. Push the pivoting Spinlock clutch cover back to LOCK the clutch on the
spinnaker halyard. Pull the spinnaker halyard from behind the halyard
pulley on the trampoline to take up the slack, so the spinnaker halyard
supports the mast.
11. E
p
u
12. Untie the two
nsure that the spinnaker halyard clutch is still in the LOCK
osition, and that the spinnaker halyard is securing the mast
pright.
forestay strops from the shackles on the bridle plates, step
onto the trampoline and take the weight of the mast before pushing the
pivoting cover on the Spinlock clutch to the OPEN position.

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SHADOW ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
13. Rotate the mast to port so that the cut-out in the mast support allows the
mast to be lowered. Lower the mast and support the top of the mast on
the trailer mast support.
14. Remove the standing and running rigging from the mast, and then remove
the mast from the boat and trailer.
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SHADOW ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
M
T
fo
ro
th
a
Sectio
n
4 ainsail
he Mylar mainsail has a total area of 12.95 square metres, with full-length
am-cored battens. Sail shape and power is controlled by downhaul, mast
tation, outhaul, mainsheet and traveller controls. The mainsail is attached to
e main halyard by a ring shackle; the ring attaches to the corresponding hook
t the top of the mast when the sail is raised.
Batten tension
1. File the batten ends that protrude from the mainsail so that they are
smooth and rounded; this will reduce the chance of damaging the
spinnaker if it accidentally catches the back of the mainsail during a hoist or
drop.
2. Insert and tension all battens equally, so they are a snug fit in the mainsail.
Hoisting the mainsail
When hoisted the mainsail is attached to a hook at the top of the mast by the
ring shackle on the halyard.
1. Attach the halyard shackle to the head of the mainsail, with the stop-knot
to the front of the sail.
2. Insert the mainsail bolt rope into the flared section of the mast track and
use the halyard to pull up the mainsail. Carefully feed the bolt rope into the
mast track as the sail is hoisted, to prevent jams.
3. Once the sail is fully raised rotate the mast spanner slightly from side to
side, allowing the mainsail ring shackle to engage on the hook.
4. Feed the track clip at the foot of the mainsail into the flare in the mast
track and then feed the mainsail bolt rope down the mast track. Ensure
that the track clip is not caught in the main halyard.
5. Stow the main halyard in the trampoline pocket, ensuring that it is not
tangled with the downhaul and rotation control lines or the spinnaker
sheets.
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SHADOW ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
Downhaul
Feed the rope from one downhaul strop through the eye in the foot of the
mainsail, and cleat the end in the clam cleat on the side of the mast; repeat for
the other downhaul strop.
Outhaul
Feed the outhaul rope at the end of the boom through the eye in the mainsail
clew, and hook the stop-knot in the slot at the end of the boom.
Mainsheet
1. Shackle the bottom of the mainsheet assembly to the hasp on the traveller.
Tie the end of the mainsheet to the end of the traveller line, for easy access
to the traveller whilst sailing.
2. Tie the mainsheet strop around the boom
and through the eye in the mainsail clew,
using a bowline.
3. Adjust the angle of the mainsheet cleat
before sailing for the first time, to suit your
preference. Loosen the screw on each side
of the block, and rotate the cleat-mounting
bracket to adjust the angle.
Setting the cleat very high will make it
difficult to cleat the mainsheet, whereas
setting the cleat very low will make the
mainsheet cleat continually and be difficult
to uncleat.
Traveller
Upwind I keep my traveller centred until 15 to 20 knots, then
ease out 150mm (6”). As the wind increases to 25+ knots I
ease another 40mm to 150mm (3” to 6”).
Downwind I ease the traveller approximately 300mm (12”)
until 20+ knots, when I tend to release the traveller fully.

Page 18