Topper Topaz 16C Quick start guide

www.toppersailboats.com
Topaz 16C/ 16CX
Rigging Instructions
Topaz16C Topaz16CX

TOPAZ 16C/ 16CX
RIGGING INSTRUCTIONS
INDEX
02. Introduction
02. Manufacturers Details
Rigging Instructions
03. BEAMS
03. TRAMPOLINE
04. LACING THE TRAMPOLINE
05. ATTACHING TRAMPOLINE
06. JIB BLOC S
06/ 07/ 08. MAST
08. TRAPEZE
08. DOWNHAUL/ IC ER SYSTEM
08/ 09/ 10/ 11. SPINNA ER
11/ 12. JIB
13. MAINSAIL
13. MAINSHEET
13. CAPSIZE LINE
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INTRODUCTION
These RIGGING INSTRUCTIONS have been compiled
to help you to rig your TOPAZ 16C/ 16CX.
Please also ensure that you refer to your TOPAZ
OWNERS MANUAL. The OWNERS MANUAL has
been compiled to help you to operate your craft with
safety and enjoyment. It contains details of the craft, the
equipment supplied or fitted, it’s systems and information
on its operation and maintenance.
Please read it carefully and familiarise yourself with the
craft before using it.
If this is your first craft, or you are changing to a type
of craft you are not familiar with, for your own comfort
and safety, please ensure that you obtain handling and
operating experience before assuming command of the
craft. Your dealer or national sailing federation or yacht
club will be pleased to advise you of local sailing schools,
or competent instructors.
PLEASE EEP THE RIGGING INSTRUCTIONS and
THE OWNERS MANUAL IN A SECURE PLACE AND
HAND THEM OVER TO THE NEW OWNER WHEN YOU
SELL THE CRAFT.
MANUFACTURER DETAILS
For further information, spares and accessories,
please contact the manufacturer:
TOPPER INTERNATIONAL LTD,
ingsnorth Technology Park,
Wotton Road, Ashford, ent TN23 6LN
Telephone [phone]
Fax [phone]
email [email protected]
TOPAZ 16
RIGGING INSTRUCTIONS
TOPAZ 16
TOOLS REQUIRED
In order to rig the Topaz 16, it is advisable to have your
tool kit to hand You will need a flathead screwdriver, a
phillips screwdriver, a pair of plyers and a socket set.
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TOPAZ16
TOPAZ 16
RIGGING INSTRUCTIONS
BEAMS
Lay the two hulls into the launching trolley cups bow first. This
will hold the hulls in the correct position to connect to the main
and rear beam.
8x lock nuts, washers and 8mm x 15mm s/s bolts are supplied.
You wll require assisstance to bolt the beams into the hulls. The
main beam has a ball deck step and is shaped to fit snugly into
the front socket of the hulls. The rear beam is smaller with a
traveller attached and a row of small plastic wheels along it’s
length. Again this is shaped to fit perfectly into the rear beam
sockets with the white plastic wheels facing aft.
Feed the bolts into
the holes in the hulls
going through the
washer and then
attach lock nut and
tighten.
Attach the main beam
first followed by the
rear beam.
TRAMPOLINE
A. Remove the beam end cap from the main beam.
B. Remove slugs from front beam.
C. Ensure that the 5mm glass tube is inserted into the sleeve
that runs along the front of the trampoline.
Insert 5mm glass tube and trampoline into the main beam.
Then slide across the length of the beam until the trampoline is
positioned centrally.
D. Re-insert slugs to the right and left of the trampoline
to hold it in position.
E. Re-affix beam end caps to secure trampoline in position.

LACING THE TRAMPOLINE
A. Insert 10mm glass rod into rear of trampoline.
B. Tie loop on end of trampoline lacing line using a bowline knot.
C. Then slide the loop on the lacing line over the end of the
10mm glass fibre rod. You can then begin to lace the trampoline
onto the rear beam.
D. Then (1) feed line under rear beam, (2) over the top of the 1st
nylon wheel, (3) on to next wheel, (4) over the top of 2nd wheel,
(5) Then forward under the beam, (6) and down through the eye
in the rear of the trampoline around the 10mm rod, (7) then back
under beam...
E. ... (8) over the top of the 2nd wheel and (9) on to 3rd wheel.
Then continue lacing process until you reach the final nylon
wheel on the end of the rear beam.
F. Once at the end of the beam. Go back to first loop and tight-
en the section between the first wheel and the second. Then
tighten the loop between the second and third and so on.
G. With the tail of the rope, feed under beam, (10) loop it over
the far end of the 10mm glass fibre rod and then (11) back
under the beam.
H. (12) Round the last nylon wheel and (13) tie off between the
last wheel and the last but one.
NOTE; THE TRAMPOLINE LACING WILL NEED TO BE RE-
TIGHTENED FROM TIME TO TIME TO ENSURE THAT THE
TRAMPOLINE REMAINS TAUT.
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1b
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ATTACH TRAMPOLINE TO FRONT BEAM
A. Tie the front end of trampoline onto slug on front beam.
B. Pull tight, so end pulley wheel is tight in the back end of
the trampoline.
C. Tie off to slug using a half hitch with a knot against it to
stop it slipping.
Repeat this on the opposite side.
ATTACH TRAMPOLINE TO REAR BEAM
A. (1) Attach trampoline tensioning lines to the deck eye on
rear beam.
B. (2) Feed forward & through pulley wheel at rear of trampoline.
C. (3) Back through deck eye. Tension as tight as possible.
Then repeat process, this time through the stainless steel ring
fixed to the back of the trampoline (4-5).
(6) Back through deck eye. Again, tension as tight as possible.
Tie off with a round turn and two half hitches.
Then repeat on opposite side. Ensure trampoline is as taut as
possible to ensure a firm platform.
TIGHTEN CENTRE OF TRAMPOLINE
A. Tighten centre of trampoline by (1) feeding rope through
deck eye left-to-right, then (2) up to and through right trampoline
eyelet, (3) through left eyelet and back down (4) through deck eye
(left to right).
B. (5-6) Then feed right hand tail up through right trampoline
eyelet and left hand tail up through left trampoline eyelet, tighten
and tie off with a reef knot.
C. Tidy tail ends by tucking back down through eyelets.
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JIB BLOCKS
The jib block set includes (1) 2x rubber boots, (2) 2x jib blocks
and (3) a shackle.
A. To attach the two jib blocks to main beam, firstly, turn rubber
boot inside out. Then, Place over bottom of jib block.
B. Attach shackle to left eye (4) on the front beam.
C. Tighten shackle.
D. Fold rubber boot back over the eye.
E. Repeat, to attach second jib block to the right eye on the
front beam.
MAST
Lay mast section along centre of boat with the top of the mast
pointing towards the back of the boat.
A. Attach the rigging to the mast using the large bow shackle (1).
The rigging includes;
1x set of shrouds (coated in white plastic)
2x trapeze wires
1x forestay (metal ring and pulley).
B. Attach bow shackle including rigging to crane fitting (2)
located on the front of the mast section. It is important to tighten
this shackle.
Then you need to tidy the rigging lines in readiness for erecting
the mast.
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MAST c ntinued
C. Attach the shroud wires (coated in white plastic) onto the
chain plates on either side of the boat (3) Use the third hole from
the bottom of the chain plates. (4) Then secure chain plates to
the hull as shown.
D. Lay trapeze wires to either side of the mast, so that they are
roughly in the correct position ready to be attached once the
mast is upright.
E. Next is the jib halyard, the jib halyard comes in two parts (5).
Ensure one section is fed through ring (6) and small pulley (7)
on forestay.
F. Then feed end of spinnaker halyard through the small pulley at
the top of the mast (8).
G. Take spinnaker halyard to foot of mast tying ends together to
create a loop.
H. Position mast so that the foot of the mast is on the ball joint
on the front beam and secure in place with pin.
E. Attach striker bar (9) (front cross bar) between the hulls at front
of boat.
EN URE THAT THE
TERN OF THE BOAT I
FACING INTO THE WIND.
ENSURE THAT THE
MAST IS CLEAR OF
ANY OVERHEAD
CABLES OR
OBSTRUCTIONS!
Re-tidy all of the rigging.
You are now ready to
raise the mast. This is a
two person job.
E. Person One (1) should
be positioned towards
the front of the boat
holding the trapeze wires.
Person Two (2) should
support the top of the
mast behind the boat
and then walk mast
forward until it is upright.
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MAST c ntinued
F. Once mast is vertical, person 2 can remove the pin from the
ball joint allowing the mast to rotate freely.
G. Person 2 should then securely but loosely attach forestay to
striker bar shackle. You can then remove the mast lock pin.
H. Now tighten forestay and re-attach to striker bar shackle.
TRAPEZE
A. Attach shock cord and
rope with adjustement
stop to trapeze handle.
And feed through trapeze
wire eye (1). Then take
other end of cord. Feed
under line to other side of boat.
Up through trapeze wire
eyelet and handle as
before.
DOWNHAUL/
KICKER SYSTEM
You can now attach the
downhaul system to the
foot of the mast.
SPINNAKER KIT
A. Feed (2) spinnaker sock into (3) chute mouth groove.
Feed around ring. Note, this is a snug fit.
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SPINNAKER KIT c ntinued
B. You are now ready to attach the spinnaker sock and pole to
the boat.
Ensure sock is fed over the striker bar.
Attach velcro straps around spinnaker pole.
C. Then attach back of spinnaker sock around either side of the
base of the mast.
(4) One line attaches to the mast foot. (5) The second line at-
taches through loop on front of trampoline (next to the capsize
line pocket).
D. Tie loop (6) in spinnaker pole bridle rope, (7) feed through eye
on front hull by main bridle. (8) Take rope back through loop and
then (9) tie off on eye. Repeat on other side and pull tight till there
is a slight bend in the spinnaker pole.
E. (1) Take line from the chute mouth and (2) tie off on to the eye
on the front of the hull.
SPINNAKER HALYARD
A. To secure one end of the spinnaker halyard, tie to bridle
for time being.
B. Take other end of spinnaker halyard down mast and through
pulley on back of spinnaker pole running from back of boat
forwards.
Remove the rope that is securing the double block to the
spinnaker pole (this is for shipping purposes only).
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SPINNAKER HALYARD continued
C. (1) Feed spinnaker halyard forward and (2) through double
block and then (3) back to double cleat on front crossbeam aside
mast foot.
D. Attach ring on shockcord through back/ centre of trampoline
and tie off on eyelet on back of rear crossbeam/ centre.
E. Feed spinnaker halyard (4) back along trampoline, through
steel ring.
F. Then forward (5) to the guide pulley (6) on trampoline front
(by capsize line pocket).
G. (7) Then feed spinnaker halyard into back of spinnaker sock.
H. (8) Feed end of spinnaker halyard through the spinnaker chute
until the tail comes out the front of the chute. (Tip; it is easier to
do this by fishing the spinnaker halyard out of the chute with a
tiller arm or similar long object in order to feed it from the back of
the chute to the front).
SPINNAKER SAIL
A. To attach spinnaker, tie (T) tack line (attached to spinnaker
pole block) to ‘Tack’ of spinnaker sail with a bowline.
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T
T
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SPINNAKER SAIL continued
B. If you feed the front of the sail through your hands till you
come to the ‘Head’ (1) of the spinnaker sail. Attach Head of sail
to spinnaker halyard (2) coming from the top of the mast.
C. The spinnaker has two patches in the centre of the sail,
pass the spinnaker halyard (end from the chute mouth) through
the lower patch (3) (one with steel ring) then tie off onto other
patch (4) (one that is cross taped) through the cross tapes with
a bowline.
D. You can put sail back into the chute by pulling the spinnaker
halyard from the guide block (5) on the trampoline.
E. Ensure that the ‘Clew’ of the sail does not disappear down
the chute. It should remain poking out of the front of the chute.
(Tip; it is helpful if a second person holds the Clew of the
spinnaker sail at the front of teh chute whilst the first person
pulls the rest of the sail back into the chute).
F. Attach spinnaker blocks to eyelets on side of hulls. Ensure
rotation arrows on the block are facing in towards the centre of
the boat.
Feed spinnaker sheets through ratchet blocks and attach to the
Clew of the spinnaker sail.
JIB
A. Tie jib halyard (H) to top of
jib sail onto S hook.
B. Attach plastic hanks to forestay. Pull jib halyard to raise jib
attaching hanks as you go.
When sail is fully raised ensure that the S hook is locked into the
s/s ring at the top of the rigging.
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PULL
H
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C. (1) Tie jib tack line to
eye in tack of jib then feed
down through main bridle.
Then (2) back up to tack
of jib through eye.
Then (3) back down to
main bridle and tie off
through with a round
turn and two half hitches.
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1

JIB SHEETS
D. (1) Tie jib sheet onto jib block (located on front beam) using a
bowline knot.
E. (2) Take jib sheet up to & through the lower eye in the jib sail,
(3) down and...
... (4) through pulley cleat,
(5) ROU D BACK OF THE MAST
(to the other side of the mast)...
... (6) through the other pulley cleat (on the other side of the
mast)...
then (7) up to and (8) through top eyelet in jib sail
and then down to tie off on jib block with a bowline (9).
F. Untie tail end of jib halyard and tie one end off loosely onto the
bridle eye (F).
G. Store the remaining tail end in the halyard pocket (located on
the trampoline).
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F

MAINSAIL
A. Tie a stopper knot in the end of the main halyard, take round
turn through eye at head of sail and pull stopper knot tight to
head of sail.
B. Hoist mainsail, feed sail into groove in mast and then raise
mainsail by pulling main halyard.
MAINSHEET
A. Attach mainsheet rope/ block to traveller block on rear
beam with the shackle.
B. Feed tail end through cleat on carriage and then through
double pulley block.
C. Then feed through eyelet on back/centre of rear beam.
Tie off with a figure of eight knot.
D. Then attach mainsheet
system to mainsail with
S hook (S).
Tip; Tie two figure of eight
knots (8) in the mainsheet
approximately 1.5metres
from the block to prevent the
traveller car sliding into each
side of the rear beam track
when sailing.
CAPSIZE LINE
Tie round mast foot with a bowline, and store in Capsize Line
Pocket. You may wish to tie figure of eight knots along the line at
evenly spaced intervals (8). These will help as gripping points.
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S
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