TANKLESS CE 12 KW Quick setup guide

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Model Number:_______________ Serial Number:________________
Information Manual…… Rev # 03.24.17
Installation and Troubleshooting Instructions for Electric Tankless Commercial Water Heaters
CE 12 KW, CE 15 KW, CE 18 KW CE 24 KW CE 27 KW CE 48 KW
CES 12 KW ,CES 15 KW, CES 18 KW CES 24 KW, CES 27 KW, CES 36 KW
CE 120 KW CE 144 KW or CE 108 KW CE 72 KW, CE 54 KW, or CE 48 KW
CES 120 KW CES 144 KW or CES 108 KW CES 72 KW, CES 54 KW, or CES 48 KW
FOR MORE DETAILED SCHEMATICS AND WIRING DIAGRAMS VISIT, HOTWATERHEATER.COM
2060 B Whitfield Park Avenue * Sarasota, FL 34243 * 800-826-5537 * [email protected]

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Table of Contents __________________________________
INFORMATION MANUAL for Commercial Heaters –Models
CE 12 KW CES 12 KW CE 15 KW CES 15 KW CE 18 KW CES 18 KW CE 24 KW CES 24 KW
CE 27 KW, CES 27 KW, CERO 27 KW, CE 36 KW CES 36 KW CERO 36 KW CE 48 KW
CES 48 KW CE 54 KW, CES 54 KW, CERO 54 KW, CERO 72 KW, CE 72 KW. CES 72 KW, CE 108 KW,
CES 108 KW, CE 120 KW, CES 120 KW, CE 144 KW, CES 144 KW
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PAGE #
How a CE and CES Series Heaters Work 3
Controls Explanation 4
Engineering Information and Breaker Sizes 5
Recovery Capacities Chart 6
CE Series Installation 7
Assembly Drawing 12 KW 15 KW or 18 KW 8
Assembly Drawing 24 KW 27 KW 36 KW 9
Assembly Drawing 48 KW 54 KW 72 KW 10
Assembly Drawing 108 KW 120 KW 144 KW 11
Troubleshooting electronic three phase units 12-17

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How an electronic Heater Works:
We have four lines of heaters; electromechanical (C series) and electronic (CE series), electronic (CES), and CERO series.
They all heat the fluid as it passes through but they are controlled in different manners depending on the customer’s
needs. This manual is specifically for the CE, CES, or CERO series units…..3 , 6 , 12 element or 24 element units for the CE and
CES series and 3,6,and 12 for the CERO units.
CE, CES, and CERO models: These models use a computer board to control the heating process. They need three pieces of
information to determine how much heat is necessary.
1. Water flow- This is determined by the flow meter and the information sent to the board. When the water tap opens,
the cold water entering the heater passes through the Flow Meter and the Flow Meter calculates how much water is
passing through the heater and it sends the signal to the Control Board once a second.
2. Inbound fluid temperature- A thermistor reads the inbound temperature of the water and sends a signal to the
Control Board.
3. Desired output temperature. The customer provides this information and can adjust the level using the rocker switch
at the left side of the unit for the 12 kw,15 kw, 18 kw, 36 kw, 48 kw, 54 kw, and 72 kw units and using either the
buttons on the board or the rocker switch on the right side for the 108 KW, 120 KW, or the 144 KW units.
4. On the CE and CERO series the acceptable temperature range the computer board will accept is 60-185 F and on the
CES series the output temperature is limited to 90 F.
5. The thermostats that shut down heating on the CE and CERO units are 200 F and on the CES series this mechanical
over temperature protection is at 90 F.
The Control Board takes the information given by the Flow Meter, the thermistor, and the customer and calculates every
second how many BTUs it needs to apply to the water to achieve the desired temperature and turns on the appropriate
number of elements.
Each time the unit turns on the series in which the elements turn on changes to balance out the element usage and to increase
the element life. This function is called dynamic load balancing.
The CERO units use special elements with titanium sheathing so be sure to order the correct part if you have a CERO model.

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Controls Explanation CE , CES and CERO Series models
Options for factory software settings include the following items
Commercial water heaters Safety shower heaters
CE and CERO CES
Maximum temperature: 60 to 185 F 60 to 90 F
Initial output setting per customer request 85 F
Freeze protection at 40 degrees F Yes Yes
For use on a recirculation system Yes No
F or C F F
Flashing to show over capacity condition Yes Yes
Shows output temperature and
Requested output temperature intermittently
Each 60 seconds Yes Yes
RS 232 interface available Yes Yes

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The following charts show the full load AMP draw, breakers required and physical size for each of our larger electronic units
(engineering chart) and the capabilities of each unit(recovery chart) in terms of temperature rise at a certain flow rate.

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Installation of electronic water heaters .
1. Please review the engineering chart on page 5 for breakers needed and verify the voltage marked on the heater is
what you have at your facility.
2. Each unit has a set of brackets or C channel to mount to the floor. Attach the unit to the wall using the brackets
supplied with the unit.
3. Connect the pipe to the inbound and outbound side of the heater which is clearly marked. Hot is on the top and cold
on the bottom.
4. Attach the pressure relief valve to a line piped to the outside or a drain.
5. Test for leaks by flowing water thru the unit.
6. Each three phase unit has a distribution block with room for three hot lines and a separate spot for the ground. Attach
each unit to its separate disconnect using this block and cable supplied by the installer and be sure the wires are tightly
connected. The CE 108 KE has a disconnect for two CE 54 KW units and the CE 144 KW unit has a disconnect for two
CE 72 W units.
7. Attach the compressed air connection to the purge system per the attached purge system manual.
8. Connect electrical requirements for the purge system if applicable. This is applicable if the user will need power to
drive an external alarm.
9. Flow water thru the unit.
10. Check the settings on the delay switch in the unit. Factory settings are 1 meaning one minute. The unit will turn on 1
minute after you have power to the unit and the water pressure is above 3 PSI.
11. Check kill switch to insure it is in the off/(pushed in)position, if applicable.
12. Turn on the toggle switches to the unit/s; #10 in the picture on page 11.
13. Close the door or replace the front cover.
14. Perform the enclosure purge function in accordance with the enclosed purge system manual if applicable.
15. Turn on the breaker to the unit.
16. Monitor the output fluid temperature after 1 minute.
17. After 70-80 seconds view the temperature reading on the computer board thru the front cover or door.
18. The unit will have gone thru its diagnostics on the software and the LED screen will show various messages. Once the
temperature setting shows on the LED screen the unit is ready to be adjusted as to the temperature output desired.
19. Set the unit to the output temperature you desire using the rocker switch at the left of the unit or the right if in a
NEMA 4 enclosure . Click on the top to increase the temperature or on the bottom to reduce the temperature.
20. Replace the front cover or close the door.
21. Perform the enclosure purge function in accordance with the enclosed purge system manual if applicable.
22. Unit is now fully operational.

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Assembly Drawing for CE 12 KW CE 15 KW CE 18 KW CES 12 KW, CES 15 KW, CES 18 KW

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Assembly Drawing for CE 24 KW CE 27 KW or CE 36KW CERO 27 KW and CERO 36 KW CES 24 KW CES 27 KW CES 36 KW

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Assembly Drawing for CE 72 or CE 54 or CE 48 KW CERO 72 KW or CERO 54 KW CES 48 KW CES 54 KW CES 72 KW

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Assembly Drawing for CE 108 KW CE 120 KW or CE 144 KW..CES 108 KW CES 120 KW CES 144 KW

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Trouble shooting for electricians
CE and CES Series troubleshooting. Be sure you are a qualified electrician before proceeding.
This series of units operates off a flow meter and computer board that turn the units elements on and off. The thermostats in
this unit are solely a safety feature to shut the unit down in case of failure. Depending on how you are using your unit the
thermostats could be 90 F or 200 F. These thermostats determine the MAXIMUM temperature inside the unit before they
break the circuit.
1. Run fluid thru the unit and be sure any air is out of the unit.
2. Turn the unit on and watch the computer board.
3. If the computer board lights up and goes thru its diagnostic routine and shows your temperature setting when it is
finished then the following parts are working properly..computer board..#6 in the picture below and pressure switch
#9 in the picture below. If you have water pressure of over 3 PSI and the board does not light up then check the
pressure switch for continuity across the two spade terminals with wire connections on them. If it has continuity and
the board does not light up then you must replace the board. If it does not have continuity then you must replace the
pressure switch.
PROBLEMS THAT CAN OCCUR
No heating of any water
Solution
1. Verify that the computer board is on and reading the current temperature. If not then check the water
pressure and power in for a bad connection or not enough pressure.
2. Take the pressure switch out of the equation by connecting temporaily the in and out to the pressure switch.
If the unit comes on when you do this the pressure switch is the problem.
3. Verify there is no blockage in the water stream as mentioned in 3 above.
4. If the board does not come on then it is possible the board has failed. Call 800 826 5537 for a new one.
Insufficient heating
1A common problem with this unit at initial start up is a restricted flowmeter….see #2 in the picture below. This
part is a vortex meter that measures the fluid thru it. If there is any restriction the flexible tube will have to be
removed to enable a cleaning of the flow meter.
2If the unit is heating but not producing what you need check to see if the board is flashing. If yes, it is telling you it
is being asked to do more than it can. Back off the flow level till the board quits flashing. Then test the water
output and compare it to the set point. If the output temperature is still lower than expected you probably have a
bad element or a blown fuse. You will need to check continuity on all elements and fuses to determine which

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parts have failed. The fuse is in the fuse enclosure between the triac and the element and is denoted on the
picture on page 11, item #16.
3If the unit is still not heating the fluid as well as you think it should then do the following test.
Turn the flow on and the heat up till the board flashes at you like it says ther e is a full load on the unit.
Using an AMP gauge test each of the three phases for Amperage. On the from panel of the unit the name plate shows
the full load AMP draw for the unit. Compare that to the test you just did. If they are the same then the unit is doing
all it can do and you need to slow the flow or lower the heat level.
4If it is not pulling a full load document the draw on each line and compare it to the full load draw.
The lines the have a lower Amp draw have a part that is not working and it is probably an element or a thermostat in
that circuit.
Too much heat
1. This generally occurs when a triac fails and does not properly shut off the electricity flow to the elements. In this
case the thermostats sut the unit down but the customer will not be able to adjust the output temperature.
Find the failed triac by shutting off the flow and do the AMP draw test above. At no flow there should be no AMP
draw or minimal to light up the pilot lights.
2. Find the triac that is the problem by finding the element that is receiving AMP draw with an AMP gauge or by
testing the triac with the power off for an ohms reading. They should all be in around .63 ohms when measured
across the gate to the line.
You will have continuity always across the power lines of the triac if the triac has failed. Please also refer to the
tests following the drawing of the inside of the unit.
3. The following picture shows the inside of an electronic heater as a reference to the parts discussed.

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If the unit is still not working do the following tests before proceeding.
Turn off the main power.
1. Determine if the elements ohm to their correct reading…
: Ohms Test: Check each element(#4 in the above picture) with an OHMs meter for correct readings. If the elements
reads 0 or flickers it is bad and needs to be replaced. If the failed element looks like it was split from the inside it probably
failed due to air in the heater and you need to check the water source for a problem.
6KW 240 volts= 10 OHMS
6 KW 208 volts= 7.2 OHMS
6 KW 277 volts= 12.8 OHMS
5 KW 240 volts= 12.2 OHMS
4.5 KW 240 volts= 13 OHMS
4 KW 240, 6 KW 288 volts= 15 OHMS
3 KW 240 volts= 19.5 OHMS
2. Test the thermostats(#3 in the above picture). The thermostats have only a safety funtion in the CE series and
generally only fail in an overheating situation. They shut the unit down if the temperature inside exceeds their
setting. The thermostat can fail permanently if the water in the chamber overheats and if it goes over 260 degrees
Fahrenheit the fuse side of the thermostat will burn and the thermostat will never work again. The thermostat will
have continuity if the fuse side of the thermostat is still good.
The thermostats condition is determined by a continuity check AFTER POWER IS OFF AND AFTER COLD WATER HAS
BEEN RUN THRU THE HEATER TO RESET THE THERMOSTATS.
Continuity is tested between the arms on the thermostat. Occasionally, you get a false positive on a thermostat. It
may read as good but have a weak connection.
If a thermostat tests as “no continuity” the thermostat should be replaced.
3. TEST the triacs. (#13 in the above picture) The triacs allow powerto pass thru them once the gate valve is opened by
the computer board sending a signal thru the gate. This gate post is labeled #1 in the picture below and is smaller
than the other two posts. Take an ohms reading across posts one(gate) and two(power out) of the triac as labeled
in the picture below. It should read .63 ohms +/-. Then, check for continuity across posts two and three …which
are the outlet power and return power. Both these posts are larger than the gate post mentioned above. If you
have continuity the triac has shorted and must be replaced with the 800 volt triacs specified by the factory.

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TRIAC REPLACEMENT PROCEDURES
1. You need an allen wrench to loosen the screws that hold the trica to the plate.
2. Remove the three wires.
3. Put the white heat sync paste that came with the tric on the back of the triac.
4. Remove the old triac and replace it with the new one noting that the location of the gate stud that is smaller of
the other two is in the same place as before.
5. Be sure the triac is secure to the plate and that some white heat sync paste has seeped out the side
6. Attach the wires as they were before.
Fuses: The fuses are 35 AMP fuses for all 6000 watts at 240 volts and larger and 30 AMP fuses for the smaller size
elements. A simple continuity test will tell you if they are intact. They are easily removed from the black case by
unscrewing the fuse holder.
Call us at 800 826 5537 for assistance if you have any questions.
If the unit is still not putting out the temperature of fluid you expect you need to do the following tests.
Set the temperature to a high enough temperature and flow level that the heater will need maximum draw to fulfill
the task.
Test for full load AMP draw with an AMP meter after referring to the engineering chart on page 4 that shows FLA by
unit size and voltage.. Also at FLA, the computer board on the unit unit should be flashing which indicates you are
asking the unit to do more than it can do. It will also flash the temperature of the water it thinks it is creating for 15 of
every 60 seconds and then go back to flashing your requested temperature.
Reduce the temperature requested till the unit quits flashing. When the unit just quits flashing it should be operating
at close to full load and putting out the temperature you are asking for within 2-3 degrees.
Check for full load draw again and and the temperature output.

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Check the line voltage and be sure you are receiving the proper voltage across two of the three lines of your three
phase heater.
If the output temperature is not within 3 degrees you probably have an element that is not working or you have a
computer board that is expecting more or less power going to the elements.
Shut the unit off and do an ohms test on each element as shown in step 1 above .
If all elements are good re do the continuity test on the thermostats. If they all have continuity they are good and are
not the problem.
If all the above checks out and you do not get the output you should then you should call us at 800 826 5537 for help
or at any other time during this process.