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These cutaway views of various cabinet styles provide
illustrations for some of the many possibilities of positioning
the pilot/actuator valve using the door as an activator. The
activator does not necessarily have to be a door. The
possibilities are only limited by the hardware available and the
imagination of the installer. Any surface or panel where a
slight movement
(approximately 1/32”)
can be created which
can be pressed by the knee, leg or hip has the potential to be
a hands free activator.
As an example, in the public washroom drop-in counter sinks
below, the Tapmaster actuator valve rests against a hinged
panel with a towel or grab bar mounted on it. Simply a light
push of the bar with the upper knee or lower thigh area acti-
vates the water flow releasing the bar stops it.
INSTALLING THE PILOT/ACTUATOR VALVE
First determine a height location where the
pilot/actuator valve is to be mounted on the
inside of the cabinet opposite the door
hinge, preferably about knee height or
higher. The objective is to mount the pilot/
actuator valve so that the inside face of the
cabinet rests against the button of the pilot/
actuator valve. This will set the door ajar
very slightly, about 1/32".
STEP #1 - Fasten the mounting bracket
with the wood screws and washers
provided, ensuring that there is approxi-
mately 1/4" gap between the inside of the
door and the face of the mounting bracket
(see illustration).
STEP #2 - Mount the pilot/actuator valve
onto the mounting bracket ensuring the inside of the door rests against the button of the pilot/
actuator valve. To adjust the position of the pilot/actuator valve relative to the door, use the
screw slots on the mounting bracket as a coarse adjustment and the 15/32-32 hex nuts on the
pilot/actuator valve body as a fine adjustment. The pilot/actuator should be positioned to assure
full travel of the button of the pilot/actuator valve while minimizing how far the door is set ajar or
offset
(Hint: Set the first nut on the pilot/actuator valve all the way down on the stem and adjust
second nut until the valve is properly adjusted then tighten the first nut to secure the valve).
STEP #3 - Route the control tubing with the self-adhesive plastic clips provided. The control
tubing is pressurized, be sure it is properly secured to prevent accidental damage by cabinet
doors, hinges or objects being transferred in and out of the cabinet.
INSTALLING THE PILOT/ACTUATOR VALVE IN VARIOUS CABINETS
1/4” Gap
Use bracket mounting screws
for coarse adjustment.
Use valve
mounting
nuts for fine
adjustment.
Cabinet
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INSTALLING THE VALVE BLOCKS
The Tapmaster valve blocks are connected in-line between the hot and cold shut off valves and
the faucet tubes as shown in Figure 2.
(Note: The valve blocks are identical in function and
may be used on either hot or cold water lines. Position them according to how the control tubing
will be routed). (Small leaks may take several minutes to show up).
STEP #1 - Hook up the control tubing from the pilot/actuator to the valve block with the plastic
sleeves provided as per Figure 1. (Note: To facilitate the
installation of the tubing and sleeves, dip the ends of the
tubing into hot soapy water and using a pair of needle nose
pliers push the tubing on to the barb fittings. An adjustable
wrench opened to the diameter of the tubing will assist in
pushing on the sleeves.
Take care not to damage the barb
fittings or crush the tubes.
If a tube must be removed from a
barb fitting, split the tube along its length with a sharp knife
(Do not pull as this may damage the barb).
STEP #2 - Turn off the
water supplies and place a
bucket underneath the shut
off valves to catch water that
may run out of the plumbing.
(Hint: Closing the faucet handles will
minimize leakage)
. Loosen the compression nuts on the connect-
ing 3/8” O.D. supply tubes, at the shut off valves. If the faucet
utilizes copper tube risers, bend and reposition the tubes in such a
manner as to create a 1-1/2" gap
(Do not kink).
To simplify the
installation, replace the copper risers with flex risers
(available at
most hardware stores)
. If this cannot be readily accomplished the
tubes will have to be shortened approximately 1-1/2”. Cut the
tubes with a tube cutter. If a tube cutter is not available a
hacksaw may be used, however be sure to de-bur and square the
ends. Extra compression nuts and sleeves are provided should
the tubes need to be cut.
STEP #3 - Prior to installing the valve blocks, open the shut-off
valves momentarily to flush out any debris in the water lines.
Large pieces of water borne debris will be trapped by the filter/
screen in the valve blocks and may reduce water flow or cause
noisy operation. As shown in Figure 2 connect the valve block(s)
with the integrated nut (input) to the shutoff fitting and the faucet
riser to the compression thread (output). Finger tighten only until
both valve blocks are in position. Be sure the plastic control tub-
ing and fittings are not damaged in any manner.
STEP #4 - Proceed to tighten the compression nuts using a 5/8”
wrench on the nut and a 7/8” wrench on the valve block body . Do
not over tighten 3/8” compression fittings with O-ring seals such
as the valve block input fitting. Hand tighten plus 1/2 turn with
wrench.
STEP #5 - Verify that all connections are tight. Turn on the
water supply(s) and inspect all connections for leaks. Set the
faucet, both hot and cold, completely open and push the cabinet
door to activate the water flow. Operate the Tapmaster on and
off rapidly to clear air from the valves. The valves may experience
some noise during on or off operation until the air is cleared. Allow
significant time to pass and then re-inspect all connections for
leaks
(Small leaks may take several minutes to show up).
Figure 1
Figure 2
FAUCET
RISER
OUTPUT
INPUT
SHUTOFF