
Item No. 0BH-00-002 Revised 04/4/14 Copyright (C) 2008, Universal Metal Industries, Inc. Page 9
Best Practices
Venting Installation Instructions
Addendum to Installation
Instructions
Model: 7200 Series
IMPORTANT: Problems caused by improper installations are not covered by the manufacturer’s warranty.
IMPORTANT: Undersized and improperly installed duct pipe and/or other ventilation components will cause excessive static pressure (air
resistance), that may result in rattling, vibration and air buffeting noises, as well as inadequate ventilation.
1. Building Codes
Kitchen Hood Ventilators should be installed by qualified technicians familiar with state and local building codes.
2. Duct Pipe and Fittings (Elbows, Transitions, Roof & Wall Caps)
a. Use round or rectangular rigid metal duct only. Where possible, use round duct as it creates the least amount of static pressure.
DO NOT use flex duct.
b. All duct sections and fittings (EXCEPT DAMPERS, per Section 4), should overlap and be connected with at least 3 –4 equally
spaced screws and wrapped tightly with 2 –3 layers of Aluminum Foil Metal Duct Tape. This type of duct tape is more durable
than traditional cloth duct tape. DO NOT use butt joints.
c. For best air flow, elbows and pipe size transition fittings should not be directly connected to one another. Where possible, always
include at least 15 inches of straight pipe between fittings.
3. Duct Pipe and Fitting Sizes
IMPORTANT: No portion of any length of duct pipe or fitting should be smaller than the discharge port of the ventilator. This is very
important because any type of restriction anywhere in the ventilation system will cause increased static pressure (air resistance), that
may result in rattling, vibration and air buffeting noises, as well as inadequate ventilation. See Duct Sizing Chart and Area Calculations
section for more detail.
Duct Runs –Length
a. Configure the ventilation duct run to be as short and as direct to the outside as possible. Minimize the number of elbows and
transition fittings used. Complex or long runs should be reviewed by a qualified installer.
b. No portion of the ducting should be run so that the exhaust air flows downward. Since exhaust heat rises, forcing the air to flow
downward will cause increased static pressure. As previously mentioned, improperly installed duct pipe will cause excessive
static pressure (air resistance), that may result in rattling, vibration and air buffeting noises, as well as inadequate ventilation.
c. Duct runs for 1250 CFM ventilator models should not exceed 35 linear feet with two 90-degree elbows and two 45-degree
elbows, a damper and a roof or wall cap. Longer runs or additional elbows will result in decreased ventilation performance. Each
90-degree elbow is the equivalent of 6 linear feet of duct pipe; each 45-degree elbow is equivalent to 3 linear feet of duct pipe.
d. Always run ventilator ducts to the outdoors. DO NOT terminate a duct into an attic, basement, garage, crawl space under a
house, a chimney, other ducting or an enclosed room.
4. Dampers
IMPORTANT: DO NOT USE SCREWS TO ATTACH ANY TYPE OF DAMPER AS THE SCREWS MAY BLOCK THE DAMPER BLADES.
IMPORTANT: DO NOT USE MORE THAN ONE DAMPER IN THE VENTILATION SYSTEM. NOTE: Many styles of roof caps and wall caps
have built-in dampers. See Roof Caps and Wall Caps section for more detail.
Always use carefully crafted, tightly wrapped Aluminum Foil Metal Duct Tape on all connections and physically view and test the
damper blades to make certain they are opening and closing correctly. Make sure that the damper blades do not touch the duct walls
and that there is no debris blocking the free movement of the damper mechanism. Common things to look for include screws
protruding into the blade’s path, overspray of paint, plaster and insulation. If using rectangular duct, be sure that all four sides of the
duct are on the outside of the damper’s start collar or frame.