Travis Industries Avalon 700 NG User manual

10850 117th Place NE ¥ Kirkland, WA 98033
10850 117th Place NE ¥ Kirkland, WA 98033

Does the pilot
go out when
the gas control
knob is
released?
Does the
main burner
turn on?
Does the main
burner shut off
after 1 to 5 min.
after starting?
Does the heater
shut off 10 to 25
minutes after
starting or shut off
unexpectedly?
Does the
flame look
correct?
Does the
blower work
correctly?
Does the pilot
ignite with the
gas control
knob in?
Does the
igniter
spark?
No
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
No
No
No
No
No
Yes
No
Yes
No
Gas control knob
may not have
been held down
long enough (7)
Millivolt
production may
not be
adequate (7)
On/Off switch,
thermostat, or
remote control
may be off (10)
Gas control
valve may be
turned to
PILOT (10)
Spill switch
circuit may be
faulty (8)
Door may be open -
applies to 700 NG's
with serial # 1083 or
earlier (6)
Millivolt
production may
not be adequate
(7)
Main burner electrical
circuit may be faulty
(11)
Remote
control circuit
may be faulty
(20)
Thermostat
circuit may be
faulty (21)
Gas supply may be
turned off or the
system not purged
(4)
Pilot tube or
orifice may be
blocked (4)
Gas control
valve may be
defective (5)
Thermopile, or
wires leading to it,
may be defective
(9)
Gas control
valve may be
defective (5)
Pilot flame height
or pilot hood may
need adjustment
(8)
Heater may be encountering a
negative pressure situation
(12)
Vent may be too short to
produce sufficient draft
(14)
Spill switch may be
faulty (14)
Blower does not start
until heater is up to
temperature (18)
(THIS IS NORMAL)
Blower may
be defective
(20)
Blower circuit
may be faulty
(19)
Flame is blue for
the first 15
minutes (15)
(THIS IS
NORMAL)
Flame height
may be adjusted
too low (15)
Burner pan
holes may be
clogged (15)
Logs may not be
placed correctly
(15)
Air shutter may
need adjustment
(16)
Manifold
pressure
may be
incorrect
(17)
Orifice may
be obstructed
(18)
Gas control
valve may be
defective (5)
Gas control valve
may be defective
(5)
Spark electrode may
be too far away from
the pilot hood (3)
Piezo igniter
may not be
grounded (3)
Spark electrode may
have a cracked
ceramic base (4)
Piezo igniter
may be defective
(4)
Heater may be
unplugged or
household outlet
switched off
Wire to piezo
igniter may be
loose or
damaged (3)

Table of Contents Page 1
How to Use this Guide
Troubleshooting Flowchart.........................inside cover
Who should use this guide..........................................2
Precautions............................................................2
How to use this troubleshooting guide...........................2
Conventions..........................................................2
Tools required.........................................................2
Spare Components...................................................2
Natural Gas ("NG") vs. Propane ("LP") Heaters.................2
Troubleshooting Steps
Wire to piezo igniter may be loose or damaged................3
Spark electrode may be too far away from the pilot hood....3
Piezo igniter may not be grounded................................3
Spark electrode may have a cracked ceramic base..............4
Piezo igniter may be defective.....................................4
Gas supply may be turned off or the system not purged.......4
Pilot tube or orifice may be blocked..............................4
Gas control valve may be defective...............................5
Door may be open (700 NG's with serial # 1083 or earlier)..6
Gas control knob may not be held down long enough........7
Millivolt production may not be adequate.......................7
Spill switch circuit may be faulty.................................8
Pilot flame height or pilot hood may need adjustment........9
Thermopile may be defective (or wires leading to it)..........9
Gas control valve may be turned to pilot........................10
On/off switch, thermostat, or remote control may be off....10
Main burner electrical circuit may be faulty.....................11
Heater may be encountering negative pressure ................12
How to tell if you have a negative pressure situation......12
Cause # 1: Exhaust Fans in Air-Tight Homes................12
Cause # 2: Down Drafts..........................................13
Cause #3: Thermal Down Draft.................................13
Spill switch may be faulty.........................................14
Vent may be too short to produce sufficient draft..............14
Flame is blue for the first 15 minutes............................15
Burner pan holes may be clogged.................................15
Flame height may be adjusted too low...........................15
Logs may not be placed correctly.................................15
Air shutter may need adjustment..................................16
Manifold pressure may be incorrect..............................17
Orifices may be obstructed.........................................18
Blower does not start until heater is up to temperature.......18
Blower circuit may be faulty.......................................19
Blower is stuck on "HIGH"......................................19
Blower does not turn on (heater is up to temperature)......19
Blower may be defective............................................20
Remote control circuit may be faulty............................20
Thermostat circuit may be faulty..................................21
Removal & Replacement Instructions:
Removing the Door..................................................22
Removing the Ceramic Logs, and Ember Strip.................22
Removing the Ashlip Control Housing.........................24
Removing the Burner Pan..........................................25
Removing the Gas Control Valve, Manifold, and Orifices...27
Removing the Pilot Assembly (includes the spark igniter)..29
Removing the Pilot Tube...........................................30
Removing the Thermopile.........................................31
Removing the On/Off Switch......................................31
Removing the Rheostat............................................32
Removing the Piezo Igniter.......................................32
Removing the Wiring...............................................33
Removing the Power Cord.........................................34
Removing the Blower...............................................34
Removing the Blower Snap disk..................................36
Removing the Spill Switch Snap disk...........................37
Appendixes & Index:
Appendix 1: How Gas Heaters Work..............................38
What Turns the Main Burners On and Off..................38
What Prevents Gas Buildup...................................38
Appendix 2: Replacement Parts...................................39
Glossary...............................................................40
Index....................................................................42

Page 2 How to Use this Guide
Who should use this guide
This guide was developed for service personnel and those selling Travis Industries products. Because of the
inherent danger involved with gas appliances, all work must be done by qualified personnel only. Your local
building official will have guidelines for those people considered qualified. The heater must be installed in
accordance with the owner's manual and the local building codes, if any; if not, follow ANSI 223.1. Bring an
owner's manual for the heater being serviced in case any installation or maintenance questions arise.
Precautions
• Turn off all gas to the unit before working on any component on the gas line
• When the gas is on make sure the remote, thermostat, or remote on/off switch does not turn on
• Make sure the appliance is unplugged when inspecting the wiring
How to use this troubleshooting guide
This guide uses a flow chart on the inside of the cover to help direct the troubleshooting procedure from start
to finish. A list of troubleshooting steps is on page 1 for those service personnel familiar with gas appliances.
The second portion of this manual is dedicated to removal and replacement instructions.
Conventions
When this troubleshooting guide refers to a side or
direction, use the following diagram to determine
direction.
Left
Rear
Front
Right
Bottom Top
Tools required
•Nutdrivers, open end & socket wrenches in 1/4", 5/16",
11/32", 3/8", 7/16", 1/2", 7/8", 1" sizes
•Gas Leak Detection Device (Gas Sniffer is recommended)
•Pressure Sensing Device (Magnehelic or manometer)
with 1/2" water column increments (0" to 15" minimum)
•Multimeter (with ability to detect millivolts and
continuity)
•Pipe Wrench
•Standard and Phillips-head Screwdrivers
•Pipe Sealant
•Wire with a male quick-connect attached to each end (called
a jumper wire)
•Power cord with male quick-connects attached to the hot and
common wires (called a hotwire)
Spare Components
When going on a service call, Travis Industries, Inc. recommends that the following spare components be
included to better facilitate a quick diagnosis and repair of the heater. These parts may be used to determine
which portion of the appliance is inoperative and can often make the repair quick and effective. In addition to
the items below, gas line equipment should be included if needed.
• Flex Tube or Pipe with Shutoff Valve • Spill Switch Snap disk • Thermopile • Piezo Igniter
• Burner Pan w/. Gas Control Valve (NG & LP) • Logs & Ember Strip • Wiring Harness • On/Off Switch
• Pilot Assembly (NG & LP) • Replacement Orifices (NG & LP) • Blower Rheostat • Blower Snap disk
• 3 Pilot Tubes (with compression fittings) • Blower
Natural Gas ("NG") vs. Propane ("LP") Heaters
Travis Industries' heaters use unique gas control valves, orifices, pilot orifices, and burner pans for natural
gas and propane versions of their heaters. They are not interchangeable, nor can they be converted. Natural
gas systems have a blue dot on the gas control valve, orifice, pilot assembly, and an "NG" stamped on the
burner pan (NOTE: The gas valve manufacturer puts light-blue paint on the screw heads – do not confuse this
with the paint Travis Industries uses). Propane systems have a red dot on the gas control valve, orifice, pilot
assembly, and an "LP" stamped on the burner pan.

Troubleshooting Steps Page 3
Wire to piezo igniter may be loose or damaged
Remove the control housing and check the orange wire leading to the piezo igniter. The connection must be
snug and undamaged. It has a round plug which fits over the piezo igniter. This wire may disconnect when
removing the control housing.
Make sure the
orange wire leading
to the piezo igniter is
still connected
On/Off Switch
Piezo Igniter
Remedy
Connect the piezo wire, making sure the connection is tight (crimp slightly if necessary). If the wire is
damaged, replace the pilot assembly which includes a new piezo igniter wire.
Spark electrode may be too far away from the pilot hood
Remove the front log and check to see that the electrode is no more than 1/8" away from the pilot hood. Press
the piezo igniter to see if a spark occurs between the electrode and pilot hood.
Pilot Hood
(the spark should
travel to the
center tab)
No more than 1/8"
Bend the spark
electrode if necessary
Remedy
Bend the spark electrode so that it is within 1/8" of the pilot hood. The diagonal offset in the electrode allows
it to be bent closer to the pilot hood if necessary (use needle-nose pliers).
Piezo igniter may not be grounded
The piezo igniter has a grounding tab near the thread which must touch the control housing. If you suspect the
piezo igniter is not grounded, remove it and check to make sure the tab is exposed and undamaged.
The grounding
tab must make
contact with
the mounting
plate on the
control housing
Piezo Igniter
Remedy
Bend the piezo grounding tab out or replace the piezo igniter.

Page 4 Troubleshooting Steps
Spark electrode may have a cracked ceramic base
If the spark electrode has a cracked ceramic base the spark will occur at the base – not near the pilot hood. To
inspect the ceramic base look down at the pilot assembly from the top through the burner pan and from the
front through the control housing. Cracking or an uneven space between the insulator and the electrode
indicates possible grounding near the base. If uncertain, remove the pilot assembly and inspect thoroughly.
Pilot hood
Thermopile
Spark
Electrode
Make sure the
ceramic portion
here is not cracked.
Look for cracks in
the white ceramic
sleeve the spark
electrode passes
through.
Remedy
Replace the pilot assembly.
Piezo igniter may be defective
If the piezo igniter is defective or damaged it will not create the electrical charge necessary. You may notice
that the red button does not create a "snap" when it is depressed or that the button has no spring resistance.
The only way to check this component is to replace it and see if it creates a spark (see picture on page 3).
Remedy
Replace the piezo igniter.
Gas supply may be turned off or the system not purged
After installation all air must be purged from the gas line prior to starting. Follow the instructions for purging
outlined in ANSI 223.1. All shutoff valves leading to the heater must be turned on.
Remedy
Turn on all gas shutoff valves and purge the gas line.
Pilot tube or orifice may be blocked
Pilot Hood
If no gas flow is present, check for blockage
here. If blockage is still detected, remove the
pilot assembly and tube and check for blockage
inside the pilot orifice. The pilot orifice
fits inside here.
WARNING: The pilot tube is often overlooked as a source of gas leakage. Check both pilot tube
connections after making any alteration to the pilot tube or pilot assembly (use a gas
leak detector)
Remedy
Remove blockage from pilot orifice by forcing air through it. Replace the pilot tube.

Troubleshooting Steps Page 5
Gas control valve may be defective
The gas control valve acts as the primary safety component on the heater. It regulates gas pressure, controls
gas to the main burner and pilot, and shuts off all gas if the pilot goes out or the spill switch senses a spill.
None of the components inside the gas valve are serviceable. Replace the valve if it isn't working correctly.
The seven symptoms listed below outline the most common problems. Find the symptom that most closely
resembles the problem encountered and follow the steps below it.
PILOT DOES NOT LIGHT EVEN THOUGH SPARK ELECTRODE SPARKS
In very rare cases the gas control valve does not allow gas to flow to the pilot tube. Check the following first:
• Gas Control knob is on PILOT and pressed in.
• Gas line has been fully purged.
• All shutoff valves are open.
• The pilot tube, orifice or assembly is not blocked.
After the above items have been checked, it can be determined the gas control valve is defective or blocked and
should be replaced.
PILOT GOES OUT WHEN GAS CONTROL KNOB IS RELEASED EVEN THOUGH THE VALVE IS
RECEIVING ADEQUATE MILLIVOLTS
Connect a multimeter set to millivolts to the middle terminal of the valve and the EPU terminal without
disconnecting any wiring (NOTE: either remove the ashlip control or use wire-piercing tips). Start the pilot
and keep it running by holding down the gas control knob. If the multimeter reads 125 millivolts or more, yet
the pilot goes out after the gas control knob is released, it is an indication that the EPU inside the gas control
valve is defective and the gas control valve will need to be replaced (NOTE: before replacing the gas control
valve, make sure the connection to the EPU is clean and firmly attached and the spill switch circuit is
working).
PILOT ADJ
VENT
T
O
L
P
I
ON
OFF
HI
LO
Check the
millivolt reading
at the EPU
terminal (with the
pilot running -
keep the gas
control knob
pushed in)
EPU terminal (Do not
disconnect any wiring)
White Thermopile Wire
Red Thermopile Wire
To spill switch
Red
Green
Multimeter set
to millivolts
Red
Make sure this connector does not touch the pilot tube -
use electrical tape if necessary to insulate it.
GAS CONTROL KNOB DOES NOT POP OUT WHEN RELEASED AFTER STARTING THE PILOT
If the gas control knob does not pop out when released after starting the pilot, the EPU inside the gas control
valve is not working correctly. This is a potentially dangerous situation.
Turn the gas control knob to "OFF", shut off gas to the heater, and do not operate the heater until the gas
control valve is replaced.
PILOT ADJ
VENT
T
O
L
P
I
ON
OFF
HI
LO
If the gas control knob does not
pop out when released, the gas
control valve MUST BE
REPLACED IMMEDIATELY.

Page 6 Troubleshooting Steps
Gas control valve may be defective (continued)
MAIN BURNER DOES NOT LIGHT EVEN THOUGH VALVE IS RECEIVING ADEQUATE MILLIVOLTS
Connect a multimeter set to millivolts to the middle and top terminal of the valve without disconnecting any of
the wiring. Start the pilot and let it run for 3 to 5 minutes. Turn the on/off switch and/or remote control on
(turn the thermostat to its highest setting if used) and check the millivolt production. If the millivolt production
exceeds 250 millivolts, yet the main burner does not turn on, it is an indication that the head coil (the valve that
opens up gas to the main burners) inside the gas control valve is defective and the entire valve will need to be
replaced.
PILOT ADJ
VENT
HI
LO
ON
OFF
White Thermopile Wire
Red Thermopile Wire
To spill switch
Red
Green
Multimeter set
to millivolts
Red
Check the maximum
millivolt production at
the top terminal with
the main burner turned
on (let the pilot burn for
3 to 5 minutes)
FLAMES DO NOT LOOK CORRECT (MANIFOLD PRESSURE IS INCORRECT)
First see the section "Manifold pressure may be incorrect" to check the manifold pressure. If the manifold
pressure is determined to be too high, the regulator inside the gas control valve is defective and the gas control
valve will need to be replaced.
PILOT OR MAIN BURNER DOES NOT SHUT OFF
If the pilot or main burner does not shut off correctly, there may be blockage inside the gas control valve.
Replace the gas control valve.
FLAME HEIGHT DOES NOT ADJUST
If the flame height does not adjust normally, first see the section "Manifold pressure may be incorrect" to
check the manifold pressure. If the manifold pressure is incorrect when the flame height is adjusted, and the
gas inlet pressure is adequate, replace the gas control valve.
Remedy
The gas control valve is not serviceable – replace the valve if it is not working correctly.
Door may be open (applies to heaters with a serial number of 1083 or earlier)
Heaters with a serial number of 1083 or earlier had a built in door switch that would shut off the pilot electrical
circuit if the door was opened. Newer models do not have the door switch. To check if the door switch is
disabling the heater, use a wire to jump the circuit between the two poles on the door switch. If the heater
works after jumping the connections, remove the door switch and permanently connect the two connections.
Remedy
Close the door, making sure the door switch "clicks" to indicate a closed circuit. Bend the contact tab if
necessary. If the door switch is faulty, it can either be replaced or the two wires leading to it can be connected
together permanently to bypass the door switch.

Troubleshooting Steps Page 7
Gas Control knob may not be held down long enough
The gas control valve requires approximately 125 millivolts production from the thermopile before the EPU
(pilot) valve will stay open. The thermopile will not generate enough millivolts until it becomes hot enough.
This can take up to 1 minute. Follow the instructions for starting the pilot in the owner's manual.
Remedy
See the directions under "Operating Your Heater" in the owner's manual.
Millivolt production may not be adequate
The millivolt system acts as a safety circuit, shutting off gas to the heater if the pilot goes out or the spill
switch detects a spill. It is also used to turn the main burner on and off. This system relies upon the
thermopile to produce millivolts. Follow the directions below to check millivolt production.
1. Turn the main burner switch to off.
2. Connect a multimeter to the middle and bottom terminal on the valve and light the pilot. Keep the gas
control knob pressed in to keep the pilot burning. Once the millivolt production reaches 125, the gas
control knob can be released and the pilot should stay lit. If the pilot goes out when the gas control knob
is released, even after millivolt production has reached 125, go to the section "Spill switch circuit may be
faulty". If the millivolt production does not reach 125 after one minute, go to the section "Pilot flame
height or pilot hood may need adjustment".
NOTE:Make sure neither of the wires leading from the thermopile have not become exposed. If the bare
wire touches the heater, the circuit will ground out and will not reach the gas control valve.
PILOT ADJ
VENT
T
O
L
P
I
ON
OFF
HI
LO
White Thermopile Wire
Red Thermopile Wire
To spill switch
Red
Green
Multimeter set
to millivolts
Red
Check the maximum
millivolt production on
the bottom two
terminals (let the pilot
burn for 3 to 5 minutes)
3. Keep the pilot burning for 3 to 5 minutes until the millivolt production peaks. The millivolt production
must reach at least 250 millivolts with the main burner off. If the millivolt production does not reach 250
millivolts, go to the section "Pilot flame height or pilot hood may need adjustment" to correct the
problem. If the millivolt production reaches 250 or greater, the millivolt production is adequate.
NOTE:If the main burner is turned on, the millivolt production will appear to drop because the head coil
(the valve that operates the main burners) will draw electricity from the millivolt system.
NOTE:If the heater operates for 1 to 5 minutes, then shuts off, it may be a defective thermopile.
Thermopiles create millivolts based upon the difference in temperature between the top and bottom
of the thermopile. A defective thermopile may create sufficient millivolts to keep the main burner
operating for the first minutes of operation. But once the entire stove warms, the difference in
temperature between the top and bottom of the thermopile decreases. Millivolt production then
goes down. This leads to the main burner shutting down.
NOTE:When using a thermostat or remote control, the millivolt production may need to be increased in
certain cases. The thermostat or remote wire creates electrical resistance in the main burner circuit,
making larger millivolt production necessary to offset the resistance.
Remedy
Inadequate millivolt production may be the result of a worn thermopile, inadequate pilot flame height, or a bent
pilot hood. Follow the directions above to determine if millivolt production is adequate.

Page 8 Troubleshooting Steps
Spill switch circuit may be faulty
The spill switch circuit is used to disable the heater if spillage is sensed from the draft hood. If a connection
between the components is loose, corroded, or damaged, the circuit will be cut off and the pilot will not stay lit
when the gas control knob is released. Follow the directions below to check the spill switch circuit.
1. Connect a multimeter set to millivolts to the middle terminal of the valve and the EPU terminal without
disconnecting any of the wiring (NOTE: either remove the ashlip control or use wire-piercing tips). Start
the pilot and keep it running by holding down the gas control knob. If the multimeter reads 125
millivolts or more, yet the pilot goes out after the gas control knob is released, it is an indication that the
EPU inside the gas control valve is defective and the gas control valve will need to be replaced (NOTE:
before replacing the gas control valve, check the section "Gas Control Valve may be Defective"). If the
reading at the EPU terminal is negligible, go to the next step.
PILOT ADJ
VENT
T
O
L
P
I
ON
OFF
HI
LO
Check the
millivolt reading
at the EPU
terminal (with the
pilot running -
keep the gas
control knob
pushed in)
EPU terminal (Do not
disconnect any wiring)
White Thermopile Wire
Red Thermopile Wire
To spill switch
Red
Green
Multimeter set
to millivolts
Red
Make sure this connector does not touch the pilot tube -
use electrical tape if necessary to insulate it.
2. Remove the spill switch and run a continuity check between the two spades on the switch. If there is no
continuity, the spill switch is defective and must be replaced. If there is continuity, go to the next step.
3. Remove, clean, and re-crimp if necessary the electrical connections shown below. Millivolt electrical
connections must be very conductive to pass the circuit. Dirty, corroded, or loose connections may
disable the circuit. If this does not correct the problem, replace the wiring harness.
EPU terminal Spill Switch
Gas Control Valve Draft Hood
Red
NOTE:
the electrical connections
are shown disconnected
for illustrative purposes
Check the four connections numbered below.
1
4
3
2Red
Red
NOTE:
Make sure this connection is
not grounding out (use tape if
necessary to insulate this
connection)
PILOT ADJ
VENT
T
O
L
P
I
ON
OFF
HI
LO
Remedy
The spill switch circuit may be interrupted by a faulty connection or spill switch, or a severed wire. Make sure
the EPU terminal does not ground out on the chassis. Follow the directions above to troubleshoot the spill
switch circuit.

Troubleshooting Steps Page 9
Pilot flame height or pilot hood may need adjustment
The pilot flame must engulf the top 3/8" of the thermopile for it to produce sufficient millivolts. A minimum
of 125 millivolts is required to keep the EPU valve inside the valve open (this keeps the pilot on). A minimum
of 250 millivolts is required to open the head coil (this allows gas to flow to the main burners). Too little
millivolts, and the pilot may not stay lit when the gas control knob is released or the main burner will not light.
If the maximum millivolt production is not adequate, check the following.
1. If the pilot flame is not tall enough to wrap around the thermopile it will need to be turned up. Located
on the lower left of the valve is the pilot flame adjustment screw. It is accessed by removing a cover
screw directly beneath the gas control knob. With the cover screw removed, turn the pilot adjustment
screw with a standard screwdriver to obtain the correct pilot flame height. The pilot flame should be
adjusted just enough so it engulfs the thermopile. Turn clockwise to lower the flame, counter-clockwise
to raise the flame. Make sure to replace the cover screw and gasket to avoid gas leaks.
NOTE:When using a thermostat or remote control, the millivolt production may need to be increased in
certain cases. The thermostat or remote wire creates electrical resistance in the main burner circuit,
making larger millivolt production necessary to offset the resistance.
2. The pilot hood must be positioned so the pilot flame wraps around the top 3/8" of the thermopile. If it
does not, bend the top of the pilot hood (use needle-nose pliers) so that it does (NOTE: the spark
electrode must not touch the pilot hood). If the pilot hood and flame height is correct, yet the millivolt
production is not sufficient, go to the section "Thermopile may be defective".
NOTE:If the heater operates for 1 to 5 minutes, then shuts off, it may be a defective thermopile.
Thermopiles create millivolts based upon the difference in temperature between the top and bottom
of the thermopile. A defective thermopile may create sufficient millivolts to keep the main burner
operating for the first minutes of operation. But once the entire stove warms, the difference in
temperature between the top and bottom of the thermopile decreases. Millivolt production then
goes down. This leads to the main burner shutting down.
PILOT ADJ
VENT
T
O
L
P
I
ON
OFF
HI
LO
PILOT ADJ
T
O
L
P
I
ON
OFF
Adjust the pilot height be removing the cover screw and
adjusting the pilot adjustment screw with a standard screwdriver.
Clockwise lowers the flame while counter-clockwise raises it.
Check the millivolt production while
adjusting the pilot. Do not adjust the pilot
so the millivolt production goes below 250.
Standard
Screwdriver
Pilot
Thermopile
3/8"
Remedy
Adjust the pilot flame height or bend the pilot hood if necessary (see the instructions above).
Thermopile may be defective (or wires leading to it are loose or damaged)
If the thermopile is defective it will not produce sufficient millivolts. Thermopiles are known to deteriorate
over time. After the pilot flame height, pilot hood, and wiring has been checked for proper operation, and the
millivolt production is still insufficient after allowing the thermopile to get up to maximum temperature, the
thermopile can then be determined to be defective and must be replaced.
Remedy
Replace the thermopile.

Page 10 Troubleshooting Steps
Gas control valve may be turned to PILOT
The gas control valve must be turned to the "ON" position (the index mark is below the gas control knob).
PILOT ADJ
T
O
L
P
I
ON
OFF
Make sure the gas control
knob on the gas control
valve is turned to ON (all
the way counter-
clockwise).
Remedy
Turn the gas control valve to ON.
On/off switch, thermostat, or remote control may be off
Make sure the on/off switch is turned on (see the owner's manual for the full operating instructions). Also
make sure the remote control has been turned on (if applicable) or the thermostat turned to its highest setting (if
applicable).
NOTE:Some installers may install the remote control or thermostat in a parallel circuit to the on/off switch.
In this type of installation if either the on/off switch or the remote/thermostat is turned on, the main
burners will come on.
MAIN BURNER
ON
OFF
Turn the switch on
the heater "ON".
Turn the thermostat to its highest
setting (if applicable).
Turn the remote
control on (if
applicable).
Remedy
Turn the thermostat to the lowest setting, and turn the remote control and on/off switch on.

Troubleshooting Steps Page 11
Main burner electrical circuit may be faulty
The main burner electrical circuit turns the main burner on and off. If one of the components malfunctions, or
if a connection between the components is loose, corroded, or damaged, the circuit will be cut off and the
main burner will not turn on. Follow the directions below to check the main burner electrical circuit.
NOTE: THE #1 CAUSE FOR FAULTY MAIN BURNER ELECTRICAL CIRCUITS ARE
CONNECTIONS THAT ARE DIRTY, CORRODED, OR LOOSE. REMOVE, CLEAN, AND
RE-CRIMP ALL CONNECTIONS BEFORE REPLACING COMPONENTS OR WIRING. ANY
WIRING THAT IS EXPOSED OR SEVERED SHOULD BE REPLACED.
1. Start the pilot, let the thermopile warm, and turn the on/off switch to "ON" (and remote if used - set the
thermostat to its highest position if used). Remove the ashlip control housing and lay it on the floor in
front of the heater, making sure no wiring has come loose. Start the pilot and let it run for 3 to 5 minutes
to allow the thermopile to achieve maximum millivolt production.
2. Attach a multimeter set to millivolts to the middle terminal of the valve and keep it there for the following
steps. Touch the other multimeter probe to the top terminal on the valve. If the multimeter reads 250
millivolts or more, yet the main burner does not turn on, see the section "Gas control valve may be
defective". Otherwise, continue to the next step.
3. Remove the red wire from the on/off switch and touch the multimeter probe to the connector. If the
multimeter reads 250 millivolts or more, re-attach the red wire to the on/off switch and continue to the
next step. If it does not, yet the thermopile is generating adequate millivolts, the wiring between the gas
control valve and on/off switch is defective.
4. Remove the green wire from the on/off switch and touch the multimeter probe to the spade on the on/off
switch where the green wire was. If the multimeter reads 250 millivolts or more, re-attach the green
wire to the on/off switch and continue to the next step. If it does not, the terminals on the on/off switch
may be dirty, corroded, or loose – remove, clean, and re-crimp this connection. If this does not work,
the on/off switch may be wired incorrectly, turned off, or defective. See the section "Removing the
on/off switch" for details on wiring the on/off switch and how to replace it.
5. Remove the green wire that leads from the on/off switch to the jumper/remote/thermostat wire and touch
the multimeter probe to the connector on the end of the green wire. If the multimeter reads 250 millivolts
or more, re-attach the connection and continue to the next step. If it does not, the wiring between the
on/off switch and jumper/remote/thermostat wire is defective.
PILOT ADJ
VENT
HI
LO
ON
OFF
Gas Control Valve
NOTE:
the electrical connections are shown
disconnected for illustrative purposes
Check the numbered electrical
connections shown to the left.
Each number corresponds to
the numbered steps above.
Connect the positive probe to
the center pole of the gas
control valve while testing the
main burner electrical circuit
To optional thermostat
or remote control
Jumper wire for
manual control
- OR -
2
56
4
Green
Red
Green
3
6. Remove the green wire that leads from the gas control valve to the jumper/remote/thermostat wire and
touch the multimeter probe to the connector on the end of the green wire. If the multimeter reads 250
millivolts or more, re-attach the connection and continue to the next step. If it does not, the jumper wire,
remote control, or thermostat is defective (see the appropriate section).
7. The wiring between the gas control valve and jumper/remote/thermostat wire is defective.

Page 12 Troubleshooting Steps
Heater may be encountering negative pressure
This gas heater utilizes natural draft to pull the combustion products out of the heater and up the vent in the
same way that a fireplace does. In rare circumstances the vent does not create a natural draft strong enough to
vent the combusted natural gas or propane. When this happens the spill switch detects heat due to the lack of
natural draft and shuts off all gas to the heater. The pilot will need to be re-started before the heater can be
turned on again. This situation is called negative pressure because there is less pressure inside the house than
in the vent.
HOW TO TELL IF YOU HAVE A NEGATIVE PRESSURE SITUATION
The most common indication of a negative pressure situation is the heater (and pilot) turning off between 10
and 25 minutes from the time the main burner was started (this happens most often on cold days). The main
burner turns on, but instead of warming the vent and creating draft, it vents out of the draft hood at the rear of
the heater. The spill switch then heats up, and in about 5 to 15 minutes shuts off all gas to the heater (shutting
off the main burner and pilot). If a thermostat is used on your heater, and the pilot shuts down sporadically,
you may have a negative pressure situation.
CAUSE # 1: EXHAUST FANS IN AIR-TIGHT HOMES
A common cause of negative pressure is a house that is extremely air-tight that utilizes an exhaust fan of some
sort, either a kitchen Jenn-Air type fan or a bathroom fan. This fan pulls air out of the house which leads to
cold air coming in through the gas vent. The heater will start normally, but because there is cold air coming
downwards or creating a "cold air blockage" in the gas vent, the heater will not vent correctly and shut off in
10 to 25 minutes.
A kitchen or bathroom
exhaust fan may push
air out of the home,
causing air to be drawn
into the heater vent
Draft Hood When hot exhaust
products spill out of the
draft hood, the spill
switch shuts off gas to
the heater.
Remedy
To correct this type of negative pressure, make sure the exhaust fans are off while starting the heater. If this is
not feasible, the heater may need to be started a couple of times to generate a natural draft. In severe cases, a
draft inducer or air inlet may need to be installed to allow air into the home to help overcome the negative
pressure (use a barometric damper or crack the window).

Troubleshooting Steps Page 13
Heater may be encountering negative pressure (cont.)
CAUSE # 2: DOWN DRAFTS
The second cause of negative pressure is down drafts. If the vent termination is located in a position where
the wind currents push air downwards, air may be forced into the gas vent. This leads to a down draft
situation because the pressure is higher in the vent than in the house. The most common locations for down
drafts are homes located directly next to a lake or on the leeward side of tall trees or a hill. Because the
strength and direction of the wind varies, this type of problem is sporadic. The heater may start normally, but
because there is cold air coming downwards or creating a "cold air blockage" in the gas vent, the heater will
not vent correctly and will shut off. In some cases the heater may run normally but when the wind increases
or changes direction, a down draft is created and the heater will not vent correctly and shut off.
wind
Down drafts can be created by any tall
objects (usually trees or hills) directly
upwind of the vent. When the wind
blows it curls around the tall objects and
turns downwards, forcing air into the
vent.
Hills
Trees
Lake
Down drafts can be created by a
lake near the home. Because the
lake is often cooler than the air near
it, the surrounding air cools and
sinks, forcing air into the vent.
Remedy
The way to correct this type of negative pressure is to either increase the vent height so that it is above the
downward flow of air or install a draft-inducing hood or draft inducer.
CAUSE #3: THERMAL DOWN DRAFT
A rare form of negative pressure is a thermal down
draft. This type of down draft is created by the
natural convective tendency of a vertical vent. The
most common cause of this is a heater located in a
cold basement compounded by air exiting through the
upper portions of the home. In homes with two
fireplaces on different levels, you might notice the
downstairs fireplace tends to draw air in while the
upstairs fireplace will have adequate natural draft,
pulling the warmer air out of the home. The heater
may start normally, but because there is cold air
coming downwards or creating a "cold air blockage"
in the gas vent, the heater will not vent correctly and
will shut off.
Remedy
Correct this type of negative pressure by installing an
air inlet into the basement to help overcome the
negative pressure (use a barometric damper) (or use a
draft inducer). In severe cases the heater may need to
be started a couple of times to generate natural draft.
A heater located in a cold
basement may experience a down
draft due to warmer air escaping
out of the upper portions of the
home or an upstairs fireplace,
drawing air into the vent.

Page 14 Troubleshooting Steps
Spill switch may be faulty
The spill switch is an essential safety device used to detect spillage of combustion products. If the spill switch
is faulty the main burners will not light or will shut off sporadically. Follow the directions below to check this
component.
1. Follow the directions for removing the spill switch. Perform a continuity check on the spill switch. If
the spill switch does not show continuity it is defective and must be replaced.
2. Replace the spill switch with a new spill switch. Start the heater and start the main burner. Allow it to
reach full temperature for one half hour. If the heater shuts off, it is an indication that the vent may be
obstructed or too short (see the section "Vent may be too short to produce sufficient draft") to produce
sufficient draft.
HINT:An easy way to check for spillage is to run a leak detector around the bottom edge of the draft hood
- if the leak detector goes off (CO is present), the draft hood is spilling. A match can also be used
(check to see if the flame is drawin into the draft hood).
Remedy
Replace the spill switch.
Vent may be too short to produce sufficient draft
The vent must have at least 5 feet of vertical rise. Furthermore, if any horizontal run is used, the vertical
portion may need to be increased. The vertical vent is needed to create natural draft to pull the combustion
products out of the heater and up the vent in the same way that a fireplace does. If the vent is not tall enough,
it will not create a natural draft strong enough to vent the combusted natural gas. When this happens the spill
switch detects the lack of natural draft and shuts off all gas to the heater. The pilot will need to be re-started
before the heater can be turned on again. NOTE: when the spill switch shuts off the heater, it will need to cool
for a few minutes before the pilot can be started again.
Min. 5' Rise
B Vent
Remedy
Increase the vertical vent and check the heater's operation.

Troubleshooting Steps Page 15
Flame is blue for the first 15 minutes
This is normal for first 15 minutes as the heater is coming up to temperature. After the heater is hot enough
the flames start to turn an orange/yellow color.
Remedy
Wait 15 minutes for the heater to get up to temperature.
Burner pan holes may be clogged
If the flames on the heater do not completely light across the width of the burner, there may be some debris
clogging the burner pan holes (check for any pieces of log that may have chipped off, lint, etc.). There might
also be occasional "lifting" of flames in this case.
Remedy
Remove the logs from the burner and clean all the burner pan holes (see the instructions in the Owner's
Manual under "Maintaining Your Heater").
Flame height may be adjusted too low
Flame height is adjusted by the knob in the middle of the gas control valve.
PILOT ADJ
VENT
HI
LO
ON
OFF
The flame adjustment knob should adjust the
flame from 10" on high to 4" on low
Flame Height
Adjustment Knob
Index Mark
Turn clockwise to adjust the flame higher, counter-clockwise to lower.
VENT
HI
LO
Remedy
Turn the knob all the way counter clockwise to achieve the highest flame height. If the rear flames do not
reach 10" when turned to the highest position, the air shutter may need adjustment or the input pressure may
be inadequate.
Logs may not be placed correctly
The ceramic fiber logs must be placed correctly on the burner pan for the heater to burn correctly. Too much
flame impingement on the logs, sooting, or no "glowing" are symptoms of incorrectly placed logs (or an
incorrectly adjusted air shutter). This may lead to excessive sooting, increased emissions, shortened flames,
and decreased efficiency.
Remedy
Place the logs correctly (see the section "Removing the Ceramic Logs and Ember Strip") for placement
instructions.

Page 16 Troubleshooting Steps
Air shutter may need adjustment
The air shutter regulates the amount of mixing air allowed to the burners. It is factory-adjusted for use at
altitudes near sea level. But because gas quality and altitude vary, adjustment may be needed after installation.
The flames should be blue at the base and orange/yellow at the top with no sooting. When adjusted correctly,
the flames will be efficient and attractive.
1. Start the heater, and let it burn for 15 minutes.
2. Inspect the flames, using the illustration below as a guide.
Correct
Flames should be blue at the
base, yellow-orange on the top.
If the flames are over 12" tall or sooty on
the ends, open up the air shutter slightly.
If the flames are all blue and short,
close the air shutter slightly.
Not Enough Air Too Much Air
3. If the air shutter needs adjustment, use a screwdriver to turn the air shutter slightly (NOTE: the burner
pan will be hot, so care must be taken to prevent burning yourself). Clockwise closes the air shutter,
making the flames more orange. Counter-clockwise opens it, making the flames more blue. Move the
air shutter in very slight increments. Inspect the flame. The base of the flame should be blue, the body
of the flame orange/yellow, and there should be no sooting. The rear flame should be no taller than 12",
the front flame 2" to 3" tall. If the flame is sooty, the air shutter has been closed too far. If the flames
are all blue, the air shutter has been opened too far.
Air
Shutter
Gas Control Valve
Mixing Tube
Manifold
Use a screwdriver to
adjust the air shutter
Counter-clockwise
to open Clockwise to close
Standard
Screwdriver
This is factory set at 5/8"
for LP, 7/16" for NG
PILOT ADJ
VENT
HI
LO
ON
OFF
Remedy
Adjust the air shutter as described above.

Troubleshooting Steps Page 17
Manifold pressure may be incorrect
If the manifold pressure is too low there will not be sufficient gas to provide a tall, orange/yellow flame. To
check the manifold pressure, follow the directions below:
1. Turn the gas control valve to OFF.
2. Remove the manifold pressure plug with a 3/16" allen wrench (it is a 1/8" N.P.T. plug).
Air
Shutter
Gas Control Valve
Mixing Tube Manifold
Manifold Pressure Tap
(sealed with a 1/8" N.P.T. plug)
Use a 3/16" allen wrench to remove.
The heater must be turned off while
connecting or disconnecting the plug or
pressure sensing device. Gas will ignite
through the pressure tap hole if the heater
is on and the pressure tap hole is open!
WARNING:
3/16" Allen
Attach a pressure-sensing device
(magnehelic or manometer) to
measure the manifold pressure.
Use a 1/8" N.P.T. to flexible
tube fitting here. Use thread
sealant when replacing the
plug
PILOT ADJ
VENT
HI
LO
ON
OFF
3. Attach a magnehelic or manometer to the manifold with a 1/8" N.P.T nipple fitting (use pipe sealant).
4. Turn the gas control valve to ON. Start the pilot and main burner. Test the pressure. If the manifold
pressure is less than that listed in the table below, check the gas pressure before it reaches the gas control
valve and correct the problem. If the pressure is correct, yet the heater encounters periodic flame height
reduction, there may be an appliance on the gas line which is causing the heater to receive inadequate gas
pressure. To determine this, try turning on all the gas appliances (including the gas water heater) at once
and checking the manifold pressure. If the manifold pressure is too high, check the gas inlet pressure and
correct if necessary. If the gas inlet pressure is still not correct replace the gas control valve.
Manifold Pressure on
LO Manifold Pressure on HI Input Pressure Range
Natural Gas 1" W.C. 3.5" W.C. 5.5" to 7" W.C.
Propane 2.7" W.C. 11" W.C. 11.5" to 13" W.C.
5. Turn the gas control valve to OFF.
6. Remove the magnehelic or manometer and replace the plug with a 3/16" allen wrench (use pipe sealant).
Remedy
If the manifold pressure is too low, chances are the inlet gas pressure is not sufficient. Check the input
pressure to make sure it meets the requirements listed in the table listed above. If the input is too low, the gas
line will need to be corrected in order for the heater to work correctly. If the input pressure is correct and the
manifold pressure is not sufficient, the gas control valve will need to be replaced. If the manifold pressure is
too high, the gas control valve is defective and will need to be replaced.

Page 18 Troubleshooting Steps
Orifice(s) may be obstructed
The orifice(s) work in conjunction with the gas control valve to provide the correct amount of gas to the burner
pan. Any obstruction (lint, cobwebs, dirt) caught in an orifice will lead to improper performance. Follow the
instructions below to check for obstructions.
NOTE:If the orifice "whistles", replace it.
1. If the flame height is less than 6" tall in the rear, or 2" in front, the orifice(s) may need to be checked for
obstructions. First check the manifold pressure to see if that is correct, then adjust the air shutter. If the
flames remain too short, remove the orifice(s) and check for debris inside.
Burners with two mixing tubes use a #53
orifice on the front, #43 on the back.
While the orifice(s) are removed, check the
inside of the mixing tubes for obstructions.
Always use thread
sealant when replacing
the orifice(s).
Natural gas orifices
have a blue mark or
an "NG" stamped on
them
Propane orifices have
a red mark or an "LP"
stamped on them
Check for clogging by
removing the orifice
and looking inside.
Orifice (removed from
back side of manifold)
2. While the orifices are removed, use a flashlight to inspect the inside of the mixing tubes for any type of
obstructions that may interfere with gas/air flow (check for lint, cobwebs, dirt, etc.). If any debris is
lodged in the orifice remove the debris by forcing air through it. Do not poke or ream out the orifice to
clean it.
Remedy
The orifices or inside of mixing tubes will need to be cleaned (force air through it) or replaced.
Blower does not start until heater is up to temperature
The blower circuit is attached to a snap disk which senses when the heater gets up to temperature. Typically,
on high, the heater will get up to temperature in 15 minutes. On low it might take 30 minutes. Make sure the
heater is plugged in and the electrical outlet is supplying electricity before checking if the blower will turn on.
Remedy
THIS IS NORMAL - Allow the heater to get up to temperature.