URAL Motorcycles 750cc Series Operating instructions

Repair Manual
750cc All Models
www.imz-ural.com

CONTENTS PAGE
INTRODUCTION.....................................................................................................................................4
PREPARING THE MOTORCYCLE FOR REPAIR................................................................................5
DETERMINING THE TECHNICAL CONDITION OF THE MOTORCYCLE....................................5
DISASSEMBLY AND REASSEMBLY..................................................................................................21
SERVICE AND REPAIR OF THE ENGINE...........................................................................................27
SERVICE AND REPAIR OF THE GEARBOX......................................................................................58
FINAL DRIVE AND DRIVE SHAFT REPAIR......................................................................................69
DISASSEMBLY AND REASSEMBLY OF THE FINAL DRIVE AND SIDECAR DRIVE................74
REPAIRING THE WHEELS....................................................................................................................81
REPAIRING THE FRONT FORKS.........................................................................................................85
INSPECTION AND REPAIR OF THE MOTORCYCLE FRAME.........................................................86
SUSPENSION SERVICE AND REPAIR.................................................................................................86
HANDLE BARS AND CONTROL CABLES..........................................................................................87
FUEL SYSTEM.........................................................................................................................................87
REPAIRING THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST........................................................................................88
SIDECAR REPAIR...................................................................................................................................88
ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT...................................................................................................................88
BEARING LIST........................................................................................................................................97
SEAL AND O-RING LIST.......................................................................................................................99

INTRODUCTION
This Manual covers the service and repair of Ural motorcycles, model years 2001 thru 2006.
Covered in this manual, replacement and/or repair of damaged parts, mechanical techniques,
special tools, and testing procedures. This manual has been designed for use by qualified
service technicians, mechanics, and engineers.
During service/repair always check positive and negative clearances between mating sufaces
to determine if they are within factory tolerences specified in each chapter of this manual.
Always replace components that are beyond the service limit outlined in each section. Always
use quality measurement instruments.
Instruction for disassembly and reassembly can be found in respective sections.
4

I
PREPARING THE MOTORCYCLE FOR REPAIRS
Irrespective of the type of anticipated repair work:
-Wash t he moto rc yc le ;
-Determine its technical condition.
For this purpose inspect visually and try out the separate units and the motorcycle in running.
Therefore, before estimating the technical condition of motorcycles that are brought for repairs
in running condition, adjust:
-Spark-plug gaps;
-Valve drive clearances;
-Carburetors at idle speed, at medium speed as well as synchronous operation of the cylinders;
-Brake controls;
-Clutch controls;
-Lean out and toe-in of the motorcycle and sidecar wheels.
Adjust the clearances, carburetors, etc. as described in Owner Manuals for motorcycles "Ural"
mod e ls Tourist, Patrol, Gear-up, Retro, and Troyka or as given
in respective sections of this Manual.
Also check presence and condition of oil in the engine crankcase, sump, gearbox, and final drive
housing, front fork legs and in the rear suspension and sidecar wheel suspensio n s hock
absorbers. Top up, if necessary.
II.
DETERMINING THE TECHNICAL CONDITION OF THE
MOTORCYCLE
The technical condition of the motorcycle and of its separate units changes in the course of
prolonged service. Quite a number of troubles, especially in the engine, may remain unnoticed
for a considerable time and are usually due to wear of major parts.
As the major and even less important parts get worn-out, the engine loses power, while the fuel
and oil consumption rises. Intensified noises in separate units appear while running. In the course
of operation, various damages are inflicted to the parts, either of mechanical nature or due to
fatigue and corrosion. Excessive play in joints becomes apparent. All this affects the dynamic,
economical and service features of the motorcycle.
The diagnosis and remedy of troubles in due time prolong the service life of the motorcycle.
Therefore periodic check-up o f the technical condition of the motorcycle is quite essential.
To estimate the technical condition of the motorcycle:
1. Make sure that all the equipment of the motorcycle is complete.
2. Determine the condition of the motorcycle by checking:
-Freewheeling distance
-Maximum speed developed in high gear
-Fuel consumption.
3. Determine the condition of the engine by checking:
-The rate of oil consumption
-Compression in the cylinders
-Abnormal noises or knocks
-Local heating and overheating
-O il leak s
-The performance of engine at different speeds and loads.
5

4. Determine the condition of the clutch mechanism as follows:
-Check for separation of disks when the clutch is engaged;
-Check for smooth engagement of the clutch;
-See if there is slipping of the clutch;
-See if there are noises when the clutch is enga ged.
5. Determine the condition of the gearbox by checking:
-Proper enga ge me nt o f t he k ick-starter pawl;
-Timely return of the kick-starter pedal;
-Easy and accurate shifting of gears;
-The gears fo r jump ing o ut-of-mes h;
-Any oil leaks;
-Overhe at ing of parts;
-For any abnormal noises.
6. Dete rmine t he co nd it io n o f the d r ive s ha ft a nd the fina l drive b y c heck ing:
-O il leak s ;
-Local heating of parts;
-Excessive play in the flexible coupling joints, the universal joint, the toothed gearing, the whee l
hub articulation;
-Exce ss ive r un-out o f t he d r ive s ha ft;
-Condition of the flexible coupling.
7. Determine the condition of the wheels by checking:
-Wear and possible damage to the tires;
-Cracks and de nt s in t he w hee l r im;
-Wear of the brake drum inner surface;
- Wear of the wheel hub bearings;
-Axle play and radialrun-o ut o f t he w hee l r im a nd tire;
-The wheel spokes for intactness and uniform tension.
8. Determine the condition of the front fork by checking:
-Pla y in the steering co lumn;
-Pla y o f t he fork le gs in the fo rk cro ss-piece, also play in the bridge and in the fork bottom tips;
-Smooth performance with motorcycle running;
-Any hard knocks while running;
-Springs for seizure;
-The shock absorbers for leaks of fluid;
- Condition of casings and guards;
-Proper tightening of the fasteners.
9. Determine the condition of the motorcycle frame by checking:
-Damages and cracks;
-Condition of the rear mudguard;
- Fasteners for proper tightening.
10. Determine the condition of the rear s uspens io n b y c heck ing:
-Smooth performance when the motorcycle is running;
-Hard bumps in running;
- Leaks of fluid from the shock absorber;
-Condition of the silent blocks;
-Play in the joints.
11. Dete rmine t he co nd it io n o f the fue l ta nk b y c heck ing:
-Gasoline leaks from welded seams and joints;
-Proper function of the gasoline cock;
-Intac t ness o f hoses ;
-Dent s a nd da ma ges in t he ta nk s he ll.
12.Dete rmine t he co nd it io n o f the e xha ust s ystem b y c heck ing:
-Tightness of joints;
-Dents and damages.
6

13. Determine the condition of the controls by checking:
-Conditio n o f t he ha nd lebar w ith t wist gr ips a nd le vers, and their respective performance;
-The throttle control twist grip for easy rotation;
-Intactness of the cable sheath and the cables;
-Working condition and proper functioning of the front, rear and side-car wheels;
-The braking action of the brakes.
-Parking brake operability
14. Determine the condition of the sidecar by checking:
-Noises in the hinged joints of the side-car to the frame;
-Smooth working condition of the wheel suspension;
-For hard knocks;
-Leaks of fluid from the shock absorbers;
-Condition of the sidecar mudguard, sidecar body, its frame, the cushion and seat back, the
cover and the windshield.
15. Determine the condition of the electrical equipment by checking:
-Operations of the ignition lock, light switch, turn indicators, emergency ignition switch, "day-
night” switch;
-Performance of the ignition system, the horn, the pilot lights;
-Conditio n o f the wir ing a nd p lug-and-socket connections;
-Condition and operation of the speedometer.
A qualified mechanic of a service station or a repair shop will determine the condition of the
engine by listening for and analyzing the abnormal noises and knocking, and diagnose possible
troubles. The basic indications for investigating noises in a running engine with the help of a
stethoscope are listed in Table 1.
7

Table 1
Determining the Technical Condition of Engine by major Noises and Knocks
Point (joint of
parts) where
knocking is
possible
Thermal
condition of
engine
Engine running mode
Zone where knocking is
audible
Nature of knocks
Conclusion about adequacy for
further service
Piston pin to connecting rod small end
Warm
Under load with sudden change to higher speed
Cylinder area
Clear sharp metallic clink
Discontinue motorcycle operation. Should knocks disappear if the ignition is retarded, adjust delayed ignition. If this does not help, remove carbon deposit from
combustion chamber and, if need be, replace piston pin, selecting
one to match the color marking of connecting rod small end.
Piston pin to piston boss
Same
Same
Same
Knocking is less clear and becomes louder once engine heats up
Same
Piston to cylinder
Cold
Idle speed
Same
Brittle metallic clink which increases with speed variation and becomes less audible when engine is warmed up.Similar knocks are audible when piston pin gets seized in connecting rod small end
Continue operation, if clink disappears after warming-up of engine. When repairing, replace piston Discontinue operation. Replace piston and piston pin
Connecting rod big end to crankpin
Any
At idle speed and especially when motorcycle "drags" in travel with thrott le valve lowered only partially (minor engine speed decrease)
Central portion of engine crankcase
Dull knocks of medium volume
Discontinue operation. Repair the engine
8

Point (joint of parts)
where knocking is
possible
Thermal
condition of
engine
Engine running mode
Zone where knocking is
audible
Nature of knocks
Conclusion about adequacy for
further service
Main bearing to crank shaft
Warm
Under load and once throttle valves are suddenly open
Engine crankcase at points of bearings location
Dull low-tone knocks
Discontinue operation. Repair the engine
Timing gear
Same
Idle running
In the area of gears location
Frequent (clattering) metallic rolling rattling (inconstant as to its tone)
Operation is possible. When repairing engine, replace faulty gears
Valves to valve seats
Warmed Idle running and free wheeling
Cylinder heads
Frequent ringing knocks which increase with speeding up irrespective of engine load
Motorcycle operation is possible. Readjust clearance. Grind-in valves, when repairing
Clutch discs
Any
Clutch engaged
Clutch cavity
Clear metallic clink
Operation can be continued. Inspect clutch when repairing engine
Flywheel to crankshaft
Any
Idle running, clutch released
Rear end of engine
Dull loud knocking which disappears once clutch is fully engaged
Discontinue motorcycle operation. Remove clutch, flywheel, check key joint, remount flywheel and fasten reliably
Alternator gear to camshaft gear
Any
Variable
Front top portion of en-
gine
Frequent rolling metallic ratting squeal
Having adjusted clearance between gears (by turning alternator frame), continue to run the motorcycle normally
Breather to front cover
Warmed
Idle running
Front end of engine
Frequent metallic clink
Operation can be continued. Inspect breather, having removed timing cover at first chance
9

Table 2 Trouble Shooting and Remedy
Trouble
Cause
Symptoms and diagnosing
Remedy
Engine fails to start :
I. Gasoline is supplied to carburetors, no sparking a) no gap between plug electrodes, carbon deposit or dirt in spark plugs, breakdown of insulator b) Microprocessor unit failed c) faulty ignition coil d) break in low -voltage wiring e) kill switch
a) undo spark plug, connect body to "ground" and check for sparking between electrodes c) if there is no spark when checking as described in Point 6 ignition coil is out of order d) remove front cover, switch on the ignition, close distributor contacts, bring a screwdriver to core of ignition coil. If low voltage circuit is intact, screwdriver will be attracted to core. If
screwdriver is not attracted to core, there is breakdown in circuit
a) change faulty spark plugs, or - depending on their condition - adjust gap or clean b) Replace microprocessor unit c) Replace faulty ignition coil d) recover wiring e) move to start position
10

Engine wont start
2. Weak or no compression in engine: a) no clearances in valve timing mechanism b) overtight valves due to carbon deposit or valve head burnt c) burnt or broken piston rings 3. Clutch slipping
a) when depressing the kick -starter, engine crankshaft turns freely with no sign of compression in engine b) when depressing the kick -starter, engine crankshaft turns freely with no sign of compression stroke evident in all cylinders or in one of them c) breather smoking 3. Engine crankshaft fails to turn when kick - starter is depressed
a) adjust clearances properly b) repair engine, grind in or repair valves c) repair engine, clean or change piston rings 3. Adjust clutch controls. If clutch continues to slip, repair it (disassembly and inspection being necessary)
Engine missing, uneven run, only one cylinder functioning
1. Lean mixture: a) erratic feed of gasoline to carburetor b) carburetor jets or misbalancing channel of floating chamber clogged 2. Faulty spark plugs 3. Poor contact of battery terminals 4. Poor sparking 5. Mixture too rich due to float chamber flood a) float needle valve either dirty or leaky b) float is leaky c) carburetor jet loose 6. Carburetor missadjusted 7. Piston rings sticking or damaged 8. Valves not tight in seats due to carbon deposit
1. Backfire in carburetor Check timing or loose rotor 2. Same as in p. 2, trouble 1 of engine 3. Pilot lamp is blinking 4. Wrong gap between side dischargers Wire pulled out of coil a) engine smokes badly, back fire in silencer, gasoline leaks from carburetor 6. Synchronized operation of cylinders disturbed 7. Lack of compression, engine smoking, oil fouling the spark plugs 8. Lack of compression
1. Same as in p. 2, first trouble of engine 2. Same as in p. 2, trouble1 of engine 3. Restore proper contact of battery terminals 4. Adjust the gap of side dischargers to 9 mm bending them a) clean the needle valve b) repair or replace faulty float c) set jet in place 6. Readjust carburetors; 7. Repair engine, clean or replace piston ring 8. Repair the engine, de-carbonize and grind-in valves
11

Trouble
Cause
Symptoms and diagnosing
Remedy
Engine knocking Engine running well at high speed, while at medium revolutions backfire in carburetor becomes evident and at low speeds the engine stalls Engine fails to develop full power; with throttle completely open, motorcycle fails to speed up Engine overheats
1. Advanced (early) ignition 2. Piston pins, pistons, cylinders , crankpins, main bear ings are worn 1. Idle -speed jet clogged 2. Carburetors misadjusted (out of step) 3. Misadjusted clearance between valves and tappets 1. Late ignition Possible bad rotor 2. Untight fit of valves to their seats due to carbon deposit 3. Piston rings sticking or damaged 4. Cylinders and pistons worn badly 5. Valve springs broken 1. Mixture too rich: a) carburetor flooded due to poor fit of fuel needle valve b) clogged air cleaner c) carburetor throttle needle misadjusted 2. Mixture too lean: a) throttle needle misadjusted b) air leaks at carburetor-to-cylinder
head joints 3. Late timing
1. Knocks disappear, once ignition is delayed 2. An expert mechanic determines the cause by listening the running engine 2. Determine by listening engine running 3. Check clearance with f eeler It should be 0.1 -0,15 mm when the engine 1. Power increases once ignition is advanced 2. Lack of compression 3. Lack of compression, engine smoking, spark plugs fouled with oil 4. Verify them by measuring in repair shop
1. Engine fails to develop speedwhen
running idle: a) check whether gasoline flows out of float chamber (chamber flood)
a) engine fails to develop speed under load
b) backfire in carburetor 3. Power increases, once ignition is advanced
1. Turn distributor body counter-
clockwise check contact gaps
2. Repair the engine 1. Blow through idle -speed Jet 2. Readjust carburetors for operation in step 3. Readjust valve clearance
1. Turn distributor body clockwise.
2. Repair the engine. Remove carbon
and grind in valves 3. Repair the engine. Clean or change piston rings 4. Repair engine. Recondition or replace
cylinders and pistons in repair shop 5. Change springs
1. Clean float chamber of dirt, repair
and adjust fuel system:
a) check condition of fuel valve and fuel level in float chamber
b) take off air cleaner and wash it c) readjust carburetor a) readjust carburetor b) tighten up nuts fastening the carburetor to cylinder head. Should air leaks continue, change gasket 3. Turn distributor body clockwise.
12

Trouble
Cause
Symptoms and diagnosing
Remedy
High oil consumption Oil leaks under alternator, under oil pump drive gear plug, at engine -to- gearbox joint and under timing box cover Squealing sound in breather Possible dry breather
1. Piston rings burnt or damaged 2. Cylinder face or piston worn 3. Breather seat in gearbox cover worn 4. Holes for draining oil from cylinder heads clogged Breather jammed and its driving pin sheared Breather jammed in cover seat
1. Smoke emits from breather, engine
smokes, spar k plugs wet with oil 2. Same as in p. 1
3. Oil dripping from breather duct
4. Heavy carbon on spark plug
electrodes, spark plugs oily and engine
smokes
With engine running, gases are blocked up in crankcase; heavy oil leaks through joints Breather fouled with aluminum
deposit and scoring of locating surface
in cover seat
1. Repair the engine. Chan ge piston rings 2. Repair the engine. Rebore cylinders or replace them 3. Repair the engine 4. Repair the engine Repair the engine Repair the engine
Power Transmission
Clutch slips Clutch fails to release fully (drags) When kick-starter is depressed, its pedal moves down, but engine crankshaft fails to turn Kick-starter pedal fails to return in top returns slowly
1. Clutch fails to engage fully due to misadjusted controls 2. Driven disks oily
Misadjusted clutch gear (lever
excessive play) 1. Pawl, pawl pin or teeth of kick- starter ratchet are either worn or damaged. Clutch slips 2. Pawl spring is damaged or weak Kick-starter return spring weak or broken or spring pin sheared
1. Check whether clutch lever play is
sufficient
2. Check when dismantling or
inspecting
Check play of clutch lever located on handlebar 1. Having engaged gear, depress kick- starter. If motorcycle remains still -it is kick-starter that it faulty; if kick -starter is operated, but crankshaft fails to turn
- then clutch is slipping Check and make sure that kick-starter
pedal returns freely
1. Readjust controls by turning the
adjusting screw so as to provide clutch
lever tip play within 5 to 8 mm 2. Dismantle the clutch. Wash disks in gasoline, eliminate cause of oil clogging Readjust clutch gear by turning the adjusting screw out, so as to provide full release of clutch and play of clutch lever within 5 to 8 mm at the tip 1. Repair the gearbox. Change pawl or reverse its position Change pawl pin.
Change gear. Check proper adjustment
of clutch controls. If need be, readjust it 2. Repair the gearbox. Change pawl spring Repair the gearbox. -Change spring or pin
13

Trouble Cause Symptoms and diagnosing Remedy
Gears won't shift Won't shift to 1st gear Gear change foot pedal fails to return Gear disengages spontaneously with motorcycle running Reverse gear disengages Spontaneously with motorcycle reverse running Shifting of gears is difficult Noise in gearbox Gear noise in final drive Overheating of final drive casing
Adjusting screws of foot pedal shift mechanism are misadjusted Push reverse lever forward Return spring either weak or damaged 1. Gear change foot mechnism out of adjustment 2. Gear shifting fails due to wear of quadrant indexing flutes or due to bent gearshift quadrant 3. Teeth of gear shift sleeves worn out Gear teeth faces of reverse gear worn out 1. The clutch cant be disengaged, slips 2. Seizing of gear shifting forks on shaft or in quadrant slots, splines of shift sleeves are badly worn 1. Gearing teeth worn out 2. Clutch or main shaft bearings worn Backlash between teeth of gears too small or too great (0.1 to 0.3 mm being tolerated) 1. Wear or damage of parts Readjust brakes 2. Play of brake pedal misadjusted
Operating the pedal does not results in reaching the position where the gear engages Gear shifting is faultless, but foot pedal fails to return after being depressed 1.Knocks when gear shifting Remove final drive and send to repair shop for check-up 1. Dismantle and check in a repair shop 2. No or small play of brake pedal
Adjust screws according to the Manual . Change the ratchet Repair gearbox. Change return spring 1. Readjust gear change foot mechanism 2. Repair gearbox. Recover indexing flutes or change quadrant together with its shaft, straighten out bent quadrant 3. Repair the gearbox Repair gearbox. Replace the gear 1. Adjust the clutch drive 2. Repair the gearbox. Inspect and replace worn parts, if required 1. Repair the gearbox. Change wornout gears 2. Same Change worn out bearings Repair the final drive. If need be, change it or its separate parts 1. Repair the final drive. Change the drive or worn parts 2. Adjust play correctly
14

Trouble Cause Symptoms and diagnosing Remedy
Running Gear
Rattling in front fork Oil leaks out of front fork Shock absorber squeaking Stiffness of suspension (bumpy) Fork rotation is dif ficult
1. Play of steering column in thrust bearings 2. Fork leg tube bushings badly worn 3. Fork leg tips or springs turned out 1. Front fork leg seals worn or damaged 2. Fork leg tip seals or their nuts loose 1. Rod unscrewed out of end piece 2. Carrier spring broken 1. Sagging of carrier spring 2. Too much effort required for shock absorber to expand or contract 1. Steering damper bolt too tight 2. Steering column bearing are too tight
1. Brake down the front wheel and by pushing motorcycle to and from by handlebar determine play in thrust bearings (by hand) 2. Set motorcycle up on rear stand, raise front wheel. If excessive play is evident when moving legs up and down, this is a sign of front fork being damaged 1. Oil stains on fork leg tips. Check condition of seals 2. Check tightening of nuts or seals 1. Cocking of cover. Dismantle shock absorber and check condition of parts 2. Same 1. Check condition of spring 2. Dismantle shock absorber, check for clogging of gauged ducts in piston and in lower valve (serviceable shock) 2. Change tightening repeatedly and try rotation
1. Eliminate play by tightening the bearings 2. Repair the fork, check condition of parts, change bushings 3. Undo binding nuts and check; screw up tips or springs, if necessary 1. Change seals 2. Screw in nuts or seals 1. Screw rod in completly 2. Change spring 1. Change spring 2. Wash parts and prime shock absorber with fresh fluid (serviceable shock) 1. Loosen bolt by turning it anticlockwise 2. Adjust tightening
15

Trouble
Cause
Symptoms and diagnosing
Remedy
Steering damper loose (fails to be tigh - tened up) Wheel spokes broken Play of wheel on axle and wobble of wheel in frame plane Fluid leaks from shock absorber (serviceable shock) Shock absorber piston rod travels freely (no load) in the beginning of extension or compression stroke Rear wheel suspension swinging in ex - cessive, knocks audible when fully extended
Steering damper friction washers oily or soiled Wrong tensioning of spokes or tensioning not uniform 1. Gland nut loose and out of position 2. Bushings or wheel roller bearings worn out Loose axle 3. Wheel spoke tension loose due to long service 1. Fluid container nut loose 2. Shock absorber rod damaged or worn; scores, dents are evident 3. Seal damaged or worn 1. Lack of fluid 2. Working cylinder has not enough fluid 1. Lack of fluid 2. Low fluid viscosity 3. Rebound valve leaky due to damage or clogging 4. Rebound valve spring resilience is reduced 5. Piston relief valve leaky 6. Piston broken or deep scores are evident
Disassemble damper and examine washers Examine and check tension of spokes by setting motorcycle on stand and turning the wheel; by pressing the wrench lightly to spokes, determine by sound if spokes are tensioned uniformly or not 1. Check by visual inspection
2. First make sure that the cause of trouble is not as described in p. 1
and 2. Without removing the wheel check for wobble 3. With motorcycle set on stand, rotate the wheel. Check run -out which should be within1.5 mm on wheel rim 1. Oil leaks from under nut 2.Fluid leaks along rod 3. Same. 6. Fluid leaks along rod
Clean friction washers, check faces do not grease or lube this part Repair the wheels. Change broken spokes and readjust proper tension of all spokes 1. Drive the gland nut home, then slacken by 1/8 of a revolution and lock it 2. Repair the wheel. Adjust tightening of bearings. In case parts are replaced, pack them with grease 3. Readjust proper tension of all wheel spokes 1. Tighten up fluid container nut 2. Change the rod 3. Change the seal 1. Add fluid if necessary 2. Pump shock absorber several times (making full strokes with rod) 1. Add fluid, if necessary 2. Prime with fluid of proper grade 3. Repair the shock absorber. Disassemble valve, wash it, replace damaged parts 4. Repair the shock absorber. Change the spring 5. Repair the shock absorber . Wash valve, check circular edges and, if necessary, lap in, otherwise change piston 6. Repair the shock absorber Change piston
16

Trouble
Cause
Symptoms and diagnosing
Remedy
Shock absorber is knocking
1. Deteriorated rubber bushings or end fastening silent blocks 2. Bolts fastening the shock absorber are loose
1. Check fastening and condition of parts 2. Check fastening bolts
1. Change worn parts 2. Tighten up bolts
Controls
Carburetor throttle control grip is diffi - cult to twist Once hand is removed from twist grip, it turns spontaneously Rear wheel or side car wheel fails to be braked Front wheel fails to be braked
1. Adjusting screw too tight 2. Slide is seized Check cable routing 3. Sheath is out of shape or control cable damaged 1. Adjusting screw loose
2. Spring that brakes twist grip is
broken 1. Rear brake pedal play misadjusted 2. Brake shoe linings of rear wheel brake oily or dirt 3. Brake shoe linings worm out 1. Same as for rear wheel
2. Lubricate it and see if this will help. Pull out cable sheaths from twist grip
housing and by twisting the grip and
lowering cable sheath determine
cause of slide seizing
3. Check cable and sheath condition by outside inspection, check for seizing of cable in the sheath 1. Trouble is remedied as soon as adjusting screw is tightened up
2. Tightening of adjusting screw does not
remedy trouble 1. Readjust and try out rear brake action 2. After readjustment, as instructed in p. 1, brake shoes are slipping 3. After readjustment, as in structed in p. 1, brake shoes are slipping 1. Same as for rear wheel
1. Loosen and lock adjusting screw 2. Lubricate the slide. If twisting is still difficult, remove twist grip, examine it and lubricate 3. Change damaged cable or sheath. If the cables get seized, remove them, wash and lubricate 1. Readjust and lock screw 2. Repair the twist grip. Remove twist grip and replace 1. Reduce play of brake pedal by turning wing nut on brake link clockwise and simultaneously checking wheel rotation. Leave a slight play of pedal for heat expansion. 2. Remove wheel, wash brake shoes in gasoline and wipe dry. If oiling persists, check quantity and quality of oil in final drive and condition of the seal 3. Using adjusting bolts, readjust clearance of brake shoes 1. Reduce play of brake lever by turning out adjusting screw in brake cover; simultaneously check rotation of wheel. Leave a slight play for heat expansion.
17

Trouble
Cause
Symptoms and diagnosing
Remedy
Brakes overheat
1. No play in foot brake pedal or front brake lever, resulting in brake shoes being constantly pressed to drum 2. Brake cam pin seized 3. Brake cam seized due to large turn angle, caused by worn linings of brake shoes
1. Set up motorcycle on the stand, check rotation of wheels without depressing pedal and lever 2. Cam is stuck in position which corresponds to braking action and fails to return into initial position 3. Cam stuck in position cor - responding to maximum separation of shoes and fails to return
1. Set up motorcycle on the stand. Turn wing nut of brake pull rod counterclock wise until rear wheel revolves freely. By turning in ad justing screw on brake drum cover of front wheel ob tain free rotation of wheel. After adjusting, check brake performance 2. Lubricate cam. If trouble persists, take wheel off, remove brake cam, wash or reface it, if necessary 3. Using adjusting bolts re-adjust clearance of brake shoes
Electrical Equipment
With ignition lock key turned in first R. H. position, pilot lamp fails to light up With ignition lock key turned in first R. H. position, pilot lamp glows, but there is no sound when horn button is depressed
1. Kill switch "Off" 2. Lamp is blown 3. No contact on term inals of pilot lamp socket 4. Safety fuse of ignition system is blown 5. No contact: a)on battery terminals b) on terminals of ground c) on battery terminal c) on alternator
d) on terminals "2" and "3" of master switch " e) on positive and ground terminals of voltage regulator f) on "ground" terminal of engine g) on safety fuse terminals of ignition system 1. No contact: a) on terminal of horn wire lug b) on terminal o f wires in plug -and- socket connector c) on terminal in light knob contact d) on "ground" through switch body and handlebar 2. Break in wires of some circuit link from horn to lighting switch
1. Check, if "ground" is "On" 2. Check condition of bulb 4. Check, if safety fuse is intact 5. Check, if contacts are clean and tightened. Check, if wiring is intact, especially wire lugs at contact terminals of safety fuse block and ignition lock Check that contacts are clean and tightened. Check that wir ing is intact, especially, wire lug at contact terminals of distributor breaker and light turn-knob
1. Switch on "ground" 2. Change faulty bulb 3. Restore contact 4. Change faulty fuse 5. If necessary, cleancontact surfaces of wire lugs, restore condition of wiring, tighten up the terminals by means of screws and nuts If necessary, clean contact surfaces of wire lug, recondition wiring, tighten up terminals
18

Trouble Cause Symptoms and diagnosing Remedy
With ignition lock key turned in first R. H. position, pilot lamp glows. When horn button is depressed horn sounds. Engine fails to start running. Weak sparking in spark plugs With ignition lock key turned in first R. H. position, pilot lamp glows. When switch "day -night" is switched on, there is no light With ignition lock key turn ed in first R. H. position, horn is switched on without depressing the push button With parking light "On", sidecar side lamps fail to glow With parking light "On", either front or rear lamp glows While engine is running at variable speeds, pilot lamp glows steadily. With motorcycle running, pilot lamp is blinking Turn indicators fail to light up although their switch is on With turn indicator switched on, not all turn indicators glow
1. No. contact: a) on terminals of red wires from ignition coil b) on wire terminal of ignition coil faces from low- voltage end c) on breaker terminal d) on wire terminals of ignition coil from high-voltage end 1. Fuse is blown 2. No contact on terminal of ignition lock Push -button jammed 1. Poor contact in connector 2. Wire break in circuit from fuse box terminal to connector or after it 1. One of lamp bulbs is blown 2. Break in wire past front lamp 1. No contact on "~" terminal of alternator 2. Alternator is faulty 1. Poor contact on "~" terminals of alternator 1. Fuse blown in fuse box 2. Some internal fault of turn relay 1. Turn indicator lamp bulb blown 2. No contact in wire terminals 3. No contact between indicator housing and "ground"
1. Check contacts for cleanliness and tightness, check that wiring is in good order in the se links of circuit 1. If wires are connected outside the connector, lamps start glowing 2. If wires are connected out side the connector, lamps fail t o glow 1. Take out lamp bulb that is not glowing, check it by examining its filament, or connecting it directly to battery 2. After check -up, lamps proved
to be in order Check fuse and flasher relay Check lamp bulb contacts on wire terminals and indicator housing to "ground" contact
1. Clean contact surfaces of wire lugs, recondition wiring, tighten up terminals with screws for better contact 1. Replace fuse 2. Restore contact Disassemble light switch and eliminate push -button jamming 1. Repair connection in coupling 2. Reconnect wires 1. Change faulty lamp bulb 2. Find break in wiring and fix 1. Clean wire lug and tighten up terminal 2. Check and replace the alternator when required Clean and tighten wire lugs and terminals 1. Change faulty fuse 2. Change flasher relay 1. Change lamp bulb 2. Restore contacts 3. Restore contact
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The loc a l hea ting a nd o ve r heat ing are de ter mined b y to uc h.
Dete r mine t he co nd itio n o f the c lut c h mec ha nis m b y c heck ing its p er fo r ma nce. W ith t he e ngine
at rest, engage the clutch, and then depress the kick-starter—the crankshaft should remain at rest.
Start the e ngine, re le ase the c lut c h a nd s hift o ve r to 1st ge ar—the motorcycle should remain
motionless. Once the clutch lever is smoothly released, the motorcycle should begin to move
smoothly, without jerks.
Turn t he t wis t gr ip t hro ttle co nt ro l ab r upt ly, thus ra is ing the thro ttle va lve (with the gear and the
c lutc h e nga ged ) t he moto r cycle should accelerate promptly, and pick up speed with no noti-
ceable slipping of the clutch.
Check t he co nd it io n o f the gearbo x, t he prope lle r s ha ft a nd the fina l drive b y a trial performance
of their mechanisms both on the run and at a standstill. The tolerated play in the final drive gear-
ing should not exceed 0.3 mm. The run-out of the propeller shaft is tolerated within 1 mm.
Check t he co nd it io n o f wheels b y a n a lterna te inspection with the wheels in the air. Check the
cond itio n o f w he e l hub bea r ings by turning the wheels and rocking them from side to side. The
wheels should rotate freely without noticeable play, seizing, clicks, etc.
The tolerated run-out and play of the rim is as follows: radial run-out—1.5 mm; axle play—1.5
mm; the run-out of tire (radial and axle) —3 mm.
The uniform tensioning of spokes shall be determined by sound when slightly striking against
them.
Determine the condition of the front fork, the rear suspension, that of the sidecar wheel, steering
controls by inspecting at rest and testing their performance in travel. The fork should rotate
freely in the steering column without any noticeable play, clicks and locking in any position
whatsoever.
The tolerated play of the bottom tips of the fork legs should be within 6 mm, with the front
portion of the motorcycle left in suspension. The front fork and the shock absorbers of the rear
suspension, as well as of the suspension of the sidecar wheel should operate smoothly, without
Jamming and cocking.
Whe n inspec ting a nd c heck ing co nd it io n o f t he sets a nd sepa rate assembly units, pay attention to
condition of the anticorrosive and paint coating of the parts. As soon as some defects are noticed,
find their cause by making use of Table 2.
After the inspection and check-up of the motorcycle, proceed with the necessary adjustments,
minor or major disassembling and the required repairs.
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