Urban Arched User manual

9/1/2013
AWNING / PATIO COVER
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
Before You Begin
Read the installation instructions thoroughly before beginning the installation procedure.
Perspective
In the Awning Instructions, “Back” means toward the home, “Front” means away from the home,
“Right” means the right side when facing the home, and “Left” means the left side when facing the
home.
In general, we will begin assembling the Awning from the right to the left. The normal slope per foot of
projection for the Awning is 1-1/2” or greater. The minimum slope is 1-1/3” per foot of projection.
Anything less than 1-1/3” may cause water to flow toward the home. Clearance above a door should
be a minimum of 6” to assure that the Awning will not interfere with the opening of the door.
Tools Needed
Drill, 1/8” and 5/32” Drill Bits, 1/4” Masonry Bit, 5/16” and 1/4” Nut Drivers, Level, Hack Saw, Shears,
Vise Grip or Clamp.

Step 1 – Mounting Rail
Create a level line where the Awning is to be attached to the home. Sometimes, it is desirable to
match the profile of the home rather than a level line. It is best to install the Mounting Rail as close to
the top of the home as possible for there is usually structural material to attach to at that point. It also
provides the best snow and wind profile for the Awning.
The drip rail on the home may have to be removed. If the
drip rail is not removed, allow a 1” to 2” space between the
drip rail and the Mounting Rail so that caulk may be applied
above the Mounting Rail. Place Sealing Tape on the back
of the Mounting Rail covering the holes. Fasten the
Mounting Rail to the home with #10 x 1-1/2” Hex Head
Screws following the reference line.
Secure all screws through the Mounting Rail and into
structural material on the home. It may be necessary to drill
extra holes in the Mounting Rail so that the screws can
secure into structural material. Caulk the top of the
Mounting Rail between the rail and the home to prevent
any water from entering behind the rail.
Step 2 – Drilling Awning Panels (To locate Support Channel and Gutter)
Determine how far from the front of the Awning the
Support Channel is to be located. Measure that
distance on the drilling template and drill a 5/32” hole
on the scored line. The minimum set back is 6” and
the maximum is 16”.
Place the drilling template on the end of the panel
with the clip end pointing downward and slide it flush
against the inside of the panel rib on the right side.
The predrilled hole closest to the clip end of the
template will locate the attachment of the gutter.
Mark these two holes with a pencil and repeat the
procedure for the left side of the panel, keeping the
template against the inside of the rib. Mark all of the
remaining awning panels in the same manner. Drill a
5/32” hole through the awning panels where they
have been marked.
Step 3 – Support Channel and Joiner
The Support Channel comes in 10’ lengths. The left end piece of Support Channel is marked with a
tag “Left End” and has been trimmed by the factory 3/4” or more.
Lay out all sections of Support Channel with the shortened section at the left end. Be sure that the
Support Channel is facing forward. Turn the Support Channel upside down. Where one section butts
against another section, insert a Support Channel Joiner so that it is even on both sides. Secure with
#10 x 1/2” TEK Screws through the Support Channel and Support Channel Joiner, two on the front
side and to on the backside of each section of Support Channel. BE SURE THAT THE SUPPORT

CHANNEL JOINER IS AGAINST THE INSIDE LEGS OF THE SUPPORT CHANNEL AND THAT
THE TWO SECTIONS THAT BUTT TOGETHER ARE EVEN.
Step 4 – Post Assembly
Determine the desired height of the posts.
Normal slope is about 1-1/2” of slope per foot of
projection. Insert the 30” section of the Post into
the 84” section for form a Standard Telescoping
Post. Where the sections join together, attach a
vise grip or clamp to the smaller section. This will
prevent the smaller section from sliding further
into the large section. Assemble all posts in a
similar fashion.
Position the end posts 6 – 12 inches in from
each end of the Support Channel. Insert the
small 1-1/4” sections of the Posts into the
Support Channel until it stops. Secure with #10 x
1/2” TEK Screws through the front and back of
the Support Channel and into the small section
of the Post. Space the remaining posts equally between the end posts and secure to the Support
Channel. If a post is spaced where a Support Channel Joiner is located, the post must be moved right
or left to be installed.
Step 5 – Awning Panel Assembly
All Awning Panels are alike. Stand up the Support Channel by
staggering the attached posts. The assembly of the Awning
Panels must begin from the right side of the Mounting Rail. Insert
the boxed end of the first Awning Panel into the Mounting Rail
with the overlapping rib extending beyond the end of the Mounting
Rail. The first panel may be secured in one of two places: 1)
through the back of the boxed end of the panel and into the
Mounting Rail, or 2) through the bottom of the Mounting Rail and
into the panel surface. Use a #10 x 3/4” Hex Head Screw.

Insert the second Awning Panel into the Mounting rail, overlapping the adjoining rib. The overlapping
rib of the second panel should be directly under the first pre-punched hole on the right side of the
Mounting Rail. Secure the two panel ribs through the first hole with a #10 x 3/4” Hex Head Screw.
Insert a polystyrene splash block into the Mounting Rail between the two ribs on the first Awning
Panel. The splash blocks have a tight, secure fit and by tilting them forward while inserting, will ease
the process. Install the remaining Awning Panels and splash blocks in the same fashion by aligning
the pre-punched holes in the Mounting Rail with the Awning Panel ribs. The last Awning Panel should
be secure just as the first panel was, allowing the last panel rib to extend beyond the end of the
Mounting Rail and Front Support Channel.

Step 6 – Adjusting and Anchoring Patio Cover
Adjust the Patio Cover to the desired pitch and secure
the two sections of each post in the front and back
with #10 x 1/2” TEK Screws. After the posts are
vertically leveled, mark their location. Move the post
off the spot to allow location of an anchor.
Concrete Anchor
Keep holes at least 2” in from the edge of the
concrete to prevent cracking. Drill a 1/4” hole at least
2” deep in concrete. Put a nut and washer on the stud
flush with the end of the threads. Insert the stud in the
hole and tap so the nut and washer are flush with the
concrete. Tighten the nut about 4 turns to expand the
base of the stud. Remove the nut and washer from
the Rawl-Stud and place a post bracket over the stud.
Replace the washer and nut and tighten. Place the
post over the bracket and secure with a 1/4” x 1-3/4”
bolt and nut.
Wood Lag
Drill 1/8” hole in wood. Place post bracket over hole and screw wood lag into hole to start threads.
Continue post attachment.
Ground Anchor
Drive the ground anchor into the ground until the slotted hole meets the ground. Insert the locking pin
about 3” through this hole. Continue to drive the pin anchor until the second hole is at proper height
for mounting posts. Drive the locking pin through the anchor until it is flush with the ground.
Scroll Post
Attach the base of the scroll post to the concrete with a 1/4” x 5/8” anchor and nut.
Step 7 – Gutter
Secure the gutter to the end of the panels with #10 x ½” hex head screws every 6”. Attach the gutter
strap to the gutter and secure it to the top of the overlapped ribs with #10 x ½” hex head screws. By
pulling the gutter strap back further on the rib of the panel than the proceeding strap it is possible to
create limited water flow in the gutters. If this is attempted, the water should be directed towards the
downspouts. Downspouts may be installed anywhere in the gutter sections. It is recommended that
the joiner have sealant applied prior to inserting the gutter into the joint. (See Fig. R)
The right end of the Gutter should be even with the inside leg of the right rib of the right end Awning
Panel. This will allow the rib to extend beyond the Gutter on both ends of the Awning. Install the
remaining section of Gutter in the same fashion, butting the Gutter Sections and connecting with a
Gutter Joiner. Make sure that all joints are caulked and water tight. Should a leak develop after
installation, Peel and Seal may be applied inside the gutter.

Step 8 – Right and Left
There are two valances “Right” and “Left”. Insert the appropriate valance into the outside rib on the
appropriate end of the Awning. The valances are manufactured longer than the Awning projection to
allow a custom fit against the home. The tab on the front or smaller end of the valance is designed to
fit between the Front Trim and the Gutter. Cut the back of larger end of the valance to allow it to fit
against the home. Some installers prefer to bend a tab at the home from the excess material which
they secure to the home after the valance is installed. Attach the valance to the inside leg of the last
rib so that they are not visible from the outside. Secure the front end of the valance between the Front
Trim and the Gutter with #8 x 3/4” Screws.
Attach the Trim Brace to the inside of the rib in the Valance
with #8 x 3/4” Screws. Run the screw through the valance and
into the Brace for a strong hold. Align the Valance vertically
and drill through the top hole in the Trim Brace up through the
Awning Panel. Secure top of Trim Brace with #10 x 3/4”
Screws installed through the Awning Panel into the Trim
Brace.
Install Awning Corner Trim with #8 x 3/4” Screws.
When the side of a patio cover is attached to an
expando, the Valance may be cut just inside the outer
edge of the expando and attached to the home or the
complete side trim can be used. Butt panel flashing is
used to flash the first panel rib to the side of the home.
Cut the top and bottom rib on the butt panel flashing to
accommodate for the arch. Place a quality caulk/sealant
on the back of the top and bottom rib on the butt panel
flashing and attach to the home as needed using #10 x
3/4” Hex Head Screws.

Step 9 – Downspout (Read entire section first)
Secure the Downspout Adapter to the bottom of the Gutter
covering the hole provided. Secure in place with #10 x 1/2” TEK
Screws. When no downspout hole is provided, secure a
Downspout Adapter to the Gutter in the desired location and then
cut a hole within the area outlined by the Downspout Adapter.
Three Downspout Elbows are provided to allow the downspouts
to be set back and to provide a kick out at the bottom. The 7’
downspout may be cut if the set back distance is greater than the
distance of the two elbows. Secure each section with #8 x 3/4”
screws. Each downspout section should be secured with the
downspout straps provided. Excess strap material should be
removed.