Ventenna HFp Vertical User manual

HFp Antenna User’s Guide
User’s Guide
7 MHz – 54 MHz Amateur Radio Antenna
HFp
Vertical
entenna
The Ventenna Co. LLC
P.O. Box 2995
Citrus Heights CA 95611
www.ventenna.com

HFp Antenna User’s Guide
Page 2
Table of Contents
The HFp Antenna ------------------------------------------------------------------- 3
HFp Vertical Parts List ------------------------------------------------------------- 4
Assembling the antenna for use --------------------------------------------------- 5
HFp Vertical Configuration -------------------------------------------------------
HFp Configuration tables ---------------------------------------------------------- 7
Fine Tuning -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8
HFp Antenna Notes ----------------------------------------------------------------- 9
Antennas -------------------------------------------------------------------- 9
Set Up Hints ---------------------------------------------------------------- 9
Frequency Adjustments --------------------------------------------------- 9
Radials and SWR ---------------------------------------------------------- 10
Guy Lines ------------------------------------------------------------------- 10
The HFp Wrench ------------------------------------------------------------------- 11
HFp Setup Hints -------------------------------------------------------------------- 12
The HFp antenna,
assembled in its 40
Meter configuration,
with included guy
lines attached. It’s
about 9 feet tall –
you can just see the
top whip against the
tree background. If
the guy lines were
black, it would almost
completely disappear!

HFp Antenna User’s Guide
Page 3
The HFp Antenna
The HFp design provides a highly efficient vertically polarized antenna design in an extremely
portable package — the entire kit weighs a little over 2 pounds (1 kg). The antenna is highly
configurable, and covers all the Amateur bands from 7 MHz to 54 MHz (as well as most of the
frequencies in between). An optional coil is available for 80 Meters, which also provides
operation on 75 and 0 Meters. Typical setup time is about 5 minutes.
In this User’s Guide, you will find setup configurations for each Ham band from 40 Meters
through Six Meters, for the antenna sitting on the ground. If the antenna is on a balcony, or
mounted with the optional BackPack Mount Kit, you can use the configuration table as a starting
point, but you will need to experiment to get the setup right with the different mounting. There
is also a laminated card in the antenna bag, with the Ham Band configuration tables on it. The
card makes it easy to take the setup information with you on your portable operation trips.
The antenna is configured for different bands by the selection and orientation of the seven
elements that are included in the kit. Four of the elements are marked with a single stripe and
contain no loading coil. One element is marked with two stripes and contains a small inductive
load. One element is marked with three stripes and contains a larger inductive load. And one
element is about 2/3 the length of the others, and has no stripe. The elements are coupled
together by means of threaded Inter-Element Connectors (IECs).
In addition to using combinations of elements, the orientation of the loaded elements (the two
and three stripe elements) either UP or DOWN determines the operating frequency. In the
configuration table later in the User’s Guide as well as on the laminated configuration card, you
will see elements marked, for example, “2-stripe up”. If you assemb e these e ements in the
wrong orientation, the antenna wi not tune to the desired frequency. The one-stripe and
zero-stripe elements have no orientation, and may be assembled into the antenna either “up” or
“down”.
The HFp is designed to operate optimally with three tuned radia wires. We have found, after
much testing, that less that three reduces the antenna's effectivity, and more than three doesn't
seem to add much. This is true for ground mounted operation as well as elevated operation. The
antenna will certainly radiate with one or two radials, but unless you are hanging from a cliff, it
is worth the time to set up all three. The radial wires are coiled on plastic spools, and are marked
in several places along their length. In use, the ring terminal is attached to the antenna base, and
the wire is un-spooled to the correct mark for the band in use, as indicated in the Configuration
Chart. This length is the correct “tuned length” for the radial wire, not the quarter-wave length,
and will be different for ground-mount or elevated mount locations.
Guy lines are included with the HFp for use when it is windy, or when the antenna will be left up
for some time. It is recommended that the guys always be used for the 40 meter configuration.
The guy lines have lug rings which are placed between two of the upright elements (typically
between the fourth and fifth elements from the bottom), using a special IEC. The lines are then
run out to their full length and secured with the aluminum stakes provided, or tied to a handy
rock. Some small flag material attached to the guys will help prevent people from walking into
them. If the guys are run in the same direction as the radial wires, they will help protect the
radials from being tripped upon, as well. The Guy Line Sliders make adjusting the guy lines
very easy.

HFp Antenna User’s Guide
Page 4
HFp Vertical Parts List
Before assembling your antenna, verify that you have all the parts in the list below:
Item Description Quantity Item Description Quantity
Zero-stripe element 1 Base Plate 2
One-stripe element 3 Base Feet 4
Two-stripe element 1 Coaxial Pigtail 1
Three-stripe element 1 Radial Wire Spool 3
Collapsible Whip 1 Guy Line Spool 1
Inter-Element
Connector (IEC) 7 Radial/Guy Stake
Base Insulator 1 Laminated Setup Card 1
Ground Lug Assembly 1 Guy Line Sliders 3
HFp Wrench 1 Special IEC 1

HFp Antenna User’s Guide
Page 5
Assembling the Antenna for Use
1) Assemble the base by first screwing the four
feet into the ends of the aluminum base pieces.
After the HFp is set up, you can adjust these feet
to make it vertical.
2) Insert the base insulator bolt through the holes
in both pieces of aluminum. Install the Base
Insulator on the bolt, with a star washer under the
Insulator. Tighten the bolt, while holding the two
base plates to form them into an “X”, as shown.
3) Place the Wrench on the top of the plate, with
the mounting hole aligned with the hole just offset
from the center hole in one of the base pieces. Put
a star washer on an IEC, and put the IEC through
the Wrench hole and the Base Plate hole. Use
another IEC to position the wrench slot correctly
over the IEC removal hole.
4) Use one of the Wing Nuts on the bottom of the
plate to hold the IEC and Wrench in position.
5) Screw an Inter-Element Connector (IEC) into
the top of the Base Insulator, and place the center
conductor lug of the coaxial pigtail over the IEC
(the yellow wire).
) Put the coax shield lug (the black wire) on the
ground stud, then screw the wing nut on top of it -
not tight - you will need to take it off in a minute.
Then place the base on the ground or another flat
surface.
7) Take off the Ground Lug wing nut and put one
of the flat washers on the lug. Put the lug from
each of the three radial wires over the ground lug,
then the second flat washer on top, and secure
them tightly with the wing nut. Arrange the
Radial Wires in an equally-spaced 120 degree
triangular pattern from the base.
8) Next, use the Configuration Table or the
Laminated Card to determine which radiator
elements you need for the frequency band on
which you wish to operate, and their assembly
sequence.

HFp Antenna User’s Guide
Page
9) Install the elements in the correct
sequence, set the Top Whip to the correct
number of sections, and adjust the Radial
Wires to the correct mark (see "Final
Assembly Details", below). Adjust the
base feet so that the antenna is standing
vertical. Install the guy lines and secure
their ends. You may use one of the
Ground Stakes to hold the base assembly
down, if you like.
HFp Configuration
On the next page is the Configuration Table for the HFp. The same table appears on the
Laminated Card, and covers 40 through Meters.
Note that the length specifications for the extendable whip are in “Sections”. The whip fully
collapsed is one “section” long. The whip fully extended is six “sections” long.
Each different configuration calls out a specific setting for the whip, although it is important to
remember that these lengths were determined with the HFp set up in an open area, away from
any nearby objects. The antenna may be affected by nearby objects in any particular setup
location, and the specified lengths may need to be changed. Thus the whip lengths in the
Configuration Table may be deemed “starting points” for resonating the HFp at your frequency.
In some situations, where there are nearby objects strongly affecting the antenna’s resonant
frequency (typically lowering it), shortening the whip all the way may still not bring the SWR to
its lowest level. If this is the case, simply change the top 1-stripe element to the zero-stripe, and
move the whip to the top of the (now shorter) HFp. Then, once again, fine-tune the whip for the
best SWR. (On 40 Meters, you may have to re-configure the elements - see "Fine Tuning".)
Be sure to notice the orientation of the stripes on the two-stripe and three-stripe e ements.
They are always specified as “stripes-up” or “stripes-down”. Remember that the one-stripe and
zero-stripe elements may be assembled either “up” or “down”.
In the table, “Element 1” is the bottom element – the one screwed onto the base insulator.
With time, the element ends may become dirty, or develop corrosion. One of the “Scotchguard”
abrasive sponges works very well at cleaning the element ends to assure good electrical contact.
The threaded inter-element connectors may also occasionally require cleaning, as well. An old
toothbrush works well to clean the IEC threads.

HFp Antenna User’s Guide
Page 7
03/08/12
Bottom Element Element Element Element Element Radial Whip
Element 2 3 4 5 6 Length Length
© 2009 The Ventenna Co., LLC www.ventenna.com 1-888-624-7069
2.5- - - - - - 1st
6M
1 0 - -
HFp Vertical - Ham Band Configuration Chart
- - 2.5
5
3rd
2nd
- -
- -
- -
- - 2.5
5th
4th
4
0 3-Up 31
8th
8th
0
- -
11
1
11
40M CW
40M SSB
1
2-Dn
1
2-Dn1
20M
1
1
1
1
1
10M
0
17M
15M
12M
1
0
1
1
1
Band
30M
13-Dn
0 3-Up 1
2-Dn
5- -
- - 6th
7th
3
0
- -
2.75
1 0
2-Up
2-Up
2-Up1 - -
A chart listing configurations for all the frequencies the HFp can cover is available on the
Ventenna website, at http://www.ventenna.com/Manuals.html.
Six Meter Setup
For six meters, assemble a One-Stripe and a Zero Stripe element, with a pull-out whip. Because
the Zeroes and the Ones are not end-sensitive, they may be assembled in any order and any
orientation. Screw the assembly onto the Base Insulator, and set the radial lengths to about three
feet. Set the whip to about 4 sections. With proper adjustment of the whip and the radial
lengths, you should be able to have the SWR below 1.5:1 across the entire -meter band, and
under 1.2:1 at the center of the band.
Fina Assemb y Detai s
Using the Configuration Table, extend the whip to the length for the band. (Remember – fully
collapsed is one “section”.) Screw the whip into the top element.
Tightly screw the bottom element for the band you want onto the base insulator IEC (finger tight,
not wrench tight). Be sure that the stripes are oriented “up” or “down” as required. Using the
threaded inter-element connectors, assemble the remaining elements – all finger-tight.
Unwind the radial wires to the proper mark and stake the spools down with the provided stakes
(or use rocks to weigh them down). You should try to evenly space the radial wires — place
them approximately a 120 degree angles from each other.
If it is windy, you should use the guy lines to secure the antenna. To do so, place the lugs
between two of the elements (using the Special IEC) and stake the other ends. (We recommend
you always do this for 40m and longer configurations, or if you are going to leave the HFp up for
a while… the wind can come up quickly.)

HFp Antenna User’s Guide
Page 8
Fine Tuning
The best method to fine-tune the HFp is to use one of the portable antenna analyzers. There are a
number of these available from MFJ, AEA, Autek and others. A list comparing the different
models and prices can be found at http://www.eham.net/reviews/products/31.
Set up the HFp, with the extension cable you intend to use to connect it to your radio, and set the
analyzer for a frequency range which includes your target frequency. There should be a null in
the response at or near the target frequency. Adjust the whip to put it right on target.
If the null is out of the whip adjustment range, you will have to re-configure the elements to
bring it closer. Use the techniques in Frequency Adjustments to change the antenna
configuration to raise or lower the antenna’s frequency. When you get close, use the whip
adjustment to refine the SWR to the best reading.
You can also use your radio to set up the antenna. This is less desirable because it has the
potential to generate some interference to other stations, so you should only use it if you have no
other choice. The procedure is as follows:
1. Set up the HFp according to the chart for the band of interest.
2. Set the radio to AM mode, and for SWR indication. If the radio has adjustable power,
use a low power setting.
3. Transmit a very short carrier at the low end of the band. Note the SWR reading.
4. Transmit a very short carrier in the middle of the band. Note the SWR reading.
5. Transmit a very short carrier at the top end of the band. Note the SWR reading.
Ideally, the SWR should be lowest at the middle of the band, and higher toward the top and the
bottom of the band. If the SWR is not acceptable in the band, then do the next steps.
. If the SWR is lower at the bottom of the band, and increases through the band, then the
antenna is resonant at too low a frequency. Shorten the antenna whip one section, and do
steps 3) through 5) again.
7. If the SWR is lower at the top of the band, and increases through the band, then the
antenna is resonant at too high a frequency. Lengthen the antenna whip one section, and
do steps 3) through 5) again.
If changing the whip length does not get the SWR to an acceptable level at your operating
frequency, then the antenna will need to be re-configured. Use the techniques in "Frequency
Adjustments" to change the antenna configuration to raise or lower the antenna’s frequency.
After each change, do steps 3) through 5) again. When you get close, use the whip adjustment to
refine the SWR to the best reading.

HFp Antenna User’s Guide
Page 9
HFp Antenna Notes
The following hints and kinks can ease your setup, as well as provide you with ideas for
experimentation. While we have defined configurations for the ham bands, you can arrange the
elements into other configurations to cover the same, or other bands. In fact, the HFp can be
configured to ANY frequency between .5 and 35 MHz (down to 3.5 MHz when used with the
80M coil). We encourage you to experiment. If you find interesting configurations, please email
us and tell us about your experiments at <[email protected]>. There is also an HFp User’s
Group on Yahoo.com where HFp owners exchange interesting ideas.
Antennas
Any antenna truly worth the name will exhibit as large a “capture area” as possible. That is, it
will present the largest possible amount of resonant structure to capture (or radiate) signals. The
larger the “capture area” the better the antenna works. The HFp configurations shown in the
configuration charts were designed to have large capture areas, but it is possible to achieve a
resonant antenna in a smaller assemblage of the elements, if having a smaller physical structure
is desired. Experimenting with the mix of elements may result in different combinations of
elements for any particular frequency. Just remember that the shorter antenna won’t reach out as
far as the longer one.
A Set-Up Hint
One of the portable SWR Analyzers mentioned before will make setting up (or experimenting
with) the HFp antenna very easy, especially if the antenna is being used in an enclosed space, or
a location where there are large objects nearby, which may make the configuration different from
the chart.
Frequency Adjustments
Note - If you need to adjust the resonant frequency of the HFp because nearby objects are
affecting it, most likely the resonant frequency will have to be raised.
1. Raising the resonant frequency – Moving an inductive load position higher in the
antenna will raise the frequency. This can be accomplished by turning over one of the
loaded elements (putting the stripes “up”), or moving it up in the assembly of elements.
Removing a 1-stripe element, or replacing a 1-stripe element with the zero-stripe (making
the antenna shorter) will also raise the resonant frequency. And shortening the whip will
raise the resonant frequency.
2. Lowering the resonant frequency – Moving an inductive load position lower in the
antenna will lower the frequency. This can be accomplished by turning over one of the
loaded elements (putting the stripes “down”), or moving it down in the assembly of
elements.
Adding a zero- or a 1-stripe element (making the antenna longer) will also lower the
resonant frequency. And extending the whip will lower the resonant frequency.

HFp Antenna User’s Guide
Page 10
Radials and SWR
The HFp configuration charts define the tuned length radials for each Ham band, over
moderately damp, conductive ground.. These tuned lengths are an important concept in the
proper operation of a ground-mounted vertical antenna. A write-up available on the Ventenna
web site which explains the effect of different radial lengths, and especially the problems which
can be generated by radials that are too long. Go to "http://www.ventenna.com/Manuals.html",
and download “Radials for ground-mounted Verticals”.
Although we have determined that the HFp will usually operate properly with the three radials
provided, adding radials may help lower the SWR in some situations, particularly in elevated
mount installations or over dry or stony ground. It is easy to add extra wire to the radial system
to see what effect more radials might have.
You can also affect the performance of your antenna by lengthening or shortening the tuned
radials. Change all the radials the same amount, a little at a time, and follow the “Fine Tuning”
procedure to check SWR. Also, see "SWR" discussion at the end of this manual.
Guy Lines for the HFp Antenna
Use of the included Guy Lines is recommended if
you intend to leave the antenna up for any length of
time, or if it is windy. Although the antenna is
quite robust, and can withstand strong winds, it will
tip over under windy conditions if it is not guyed.
A Special IEC (Inter-Element-Connector), which
has a short sleeve on it, is used to allow the element
stack to rotate with the Guy Lines attached. The
short sleeve provides a small space between the
element and the nut in the center of the IEC. The
sleeve is crimped in place on the threaded portion
of the IEC.
Here is a picture of the Special IEC, showing the
sleeve.
The ring crimped to one end of each Guy
Line has an opening large enough to allow
it to fit loosely over the Special IEC sleeve.
Because of the loose fit, the three rings can
rotate freely when the element stack is
turned, preventing the guy lines from
wrapping around the element stack.
Here is a picture showing two elements, the
Special IEC, and the three Guy Lines
assembled together. This connection point
for the Guy Lines is usually above the
fourth element in the stack.

HFp Antenna User’s Guide
Page 11
At the other end of the Guy Line, the line is
threaded through two of the holes in the Guy
Line Slider, and is tied to the third hole. A
bowline knot is recommended here.
For each Guy Line, the loop between the tied
end of the guy line and the middle hole goes
over a Guy Stake, which is spaced about 10’
away from the antenna base. Then the three
sliders are adjusted to equally tighten the Guy
Lines, while checking that the antenna is
straight.
The slider moves very easily toward the antenna, tensioning the guy line. To loosen it, hold the
guy line on the antenna side of the slider, turn the slider slightly with your other hand, and slide
it toward the stake.
The HFp Wrench
The HFp wrench is designed to loosen a stuck IEC (Inter-Element-Connector) from the end of an
element - a common problem when the elements are tightened securely. The wrench is made of
hard aluminum, and may be used in the hand, or may be attached to the base plate of the
Vertical. It weighs 1.2 ounces.
The Vertical base plate application of the wrench makes it extremely convenient to loosen a
stuck IEC. Removing a stuck IEC is now a one-hand operation!
Install the wrench on your base plate, using the following diagram.
To loosen a stuck IEC, simply
insert the IEC stud into the
wrench hole in the base plate,
turning the element slightly to
align the nut flats with the
wrench slot. Then twist the
element to loosen the IEC.
Gro nd L g
hole
IEC Hole
HFp Wrench
Installation
Drill new wrench hole
at indicated location.
Install wrench sing
gro nd l g bolt. Use an
IEC to align slot over
wrench hole. Tighten
gro nd l g sec rely.
HFp
wrench
HFp
Base
Plate
Base Ins lator
hole

HFp Antenna User’s Guide
Page 12
More Hints for setting up the HFp Vertica
Base insu ator -
Place a 1/4-20 bolt into the hole in the center of one of the base plates. Place the second Base
Plate on the bolt.
Put one of the star washers on the bolt, thread the Base Insulator onto the bolt, and tighten it
down hand-tight.
Using the Wrench, and, while holding the Base Plates crossed at right angles, tighten the bolt.
Ground ug -
Newer Ground Bolts -
Place the Wrench on the top of the plate, with the mounting hole aligned with the hole just offset
from the center hole in one of the base pieces. Put a star washer on an IEC and put the IEC
through the Wrench hole and the Base Plate hole. Use another IEC to position the wrench slot
correctly over the IEC removal hole.
Use one of the Wing Nuts on the bottom of the plate to hold the IEC and Wrench in position.
Install the ground side of the Pigtail on the ground bolt, then place a flat washer over it. Install
the three radial wires, then the second flat washer, and tighten everything down with the wing
nut.
Older Ground Bolts -
Place one of the split washers one of the 1/4-20 bolts and thread it into the tapped hole closest to
the center of the base plate. Use the Wrench to tighten the bolt. Make this bolt just snug - so
the split washer just compresses. Don't over-tighten it!
Next, place the Wrench on the top of the bolt, using an IEC (Inter-Element-Connector) to align
the Wrench to the IEC guide hole. Leave the IEC in place until the wing nut is tightened.
Then put the second split washer on the top of the wrench, align the wrench with the IEC
removal hole (using an IEC), and put the nut on top to hold the Wrench in place.
Install the ground side of the Pigtail, then place a flat washer on the ground bolt. Install the three
radial wires, then the second flat washer, and tighten everything down with the wing nut.
Pigtai -
Newer pigtails -
The black lead is the shield braid of the coax, and goes to the Ground Bolt.
The yellow lead is the center conductor of the coax, and goes to the top of the Base Insulator
IEC.
Older pigtails -
The lead which is all yellow is the shield braid of the coax, and goes to the Ground Bolt.
The lead which is mostly milky-colored, with a short yellow part at the end, is the center
conductor of the coax, and goes to the top of the Base Insulator IEC.

HFp Antenna User’s Guide
Page 13
SWR (Standing Wave Ratio)
SWR is a measure of how well the antenna is absorbing the power generated by the transmitter.
The best SWR is 1:1 (referred to as "one-to-one"), which means that all of the power of the
transmitter is being absorbed by the antenna - just as you would like it to be. If the SWR in your
system is higher than 1:1, it means that some of the power sent to the antenna is being reflected
back to the transmitter, and not being used by the antenna.
Most modern transmitters will operate with full power into a load with an SWR of 2:1 or less.
But, if the SWR is higher than 2:1, many transmitters will cut back on the output power to
protect from damage caused by excessive amounts of reflected power.
In most situations, setting up the HFp according to the Laminated Card will result in an SWR
well below 2:1 - usually in the range of 1.2:1. And, with careful adjustment of the HFp element
stack and the radial wire lengths, it is possible to get the SWR down to essentially 1:1. But is it
worth the time and effort to try to achieve this ideal situation?
At 2:1 SWR, a little over 11% of the transmitter's power is not absorbed by the antenna, and is
reflected back to the transmitter. At 1.5:1, the returned power is 4%, and at 1.2:1, it's 0.8%
−
practically insignificant.
With most portable HF antennas it's not possible to get the SWR perfect, because they don't have
enough adjustment capability. But, with the HFp, if you really want to make it perfect, it is
possible - by carefully refining the radial lengths and the whip length. It'll just take a bit of time
to get the adjustments exactly right. A write-up available on the Ventenna website tells you how.
Go to "http://www.ventenna.com/files/SWR-Notes.pdf " for a copy, or go to the "Manuals" page
on the Ventenna website for a download link.
©2002-2012, The Ventenna Co. LLC
Last Update: Mar, 2012
entenna
The Ventenna Co. LLC
P.O. Box 227
Huston ID 83630
www.ventenna.com
1-888-624-7069