Vortex-RC VT-AllRounder Operating and maintenance manual

Instructional Manual
REV 3.0
Congratulations on your purchase of the “ Vortex-RC VT-AllRounder  ” – An airplane
that excels as a 3 channel trainer for first time fliers,
introduces ailerons to intermediate fliers and also
provides a platform for fully aerobatic platform to
perform any pattern maneuver in the book. A
perfect Allrounder.
Please take time to read through this manual in
detail as well as watch our videos that illustrate the
build steps. We recommend that you read several
steps ahead and test fit parts without using glue and
once you double check everything then only use the
adhesive. Our precision laser cutting ensures you will need minimal or no modifications to parts for a
fit, and that all fits are tight and accurate. If you find any part that does not fit properly, please read
the instructions and see pictures again to reorient/align correctly before using any glue.
We have written this manual so that the kit can be built individually as well as by groups of
students/builders. Please follow the build in the order as written below.
Additionally we have given 2 check mark places besides each step.
Check mark the first box when you complete the step. Check mark the second one, after you double
check the step, or when doing group builds have your project coordinator inspect and check it for you.
Watch our build videos, now on Youtube.
From unboxing to the maiden flight, we have it all on videos for you to
see, learn and follow to ensure you get the most out of the Speedsters.
Search Vortex-RC on Youtube, or follow the link : http://goo.gl/GMhxgG
or scan the QR-code on the right.
The manual has QR codes in each of the sections linking to relevant
videos to help you easily find the videos.
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Contents
o What's in the kit. Page 4
o What you need in order to complete the kit. Page 5
o Some basic stuff about materials used, and adhesives Page 6
o Build techniques - Hinging and Glueing. Page 8
o Building the Fuselage Page 10
o Building the Wing Page 22
o Installing the Electronics Page 34
o Appendix A Field packing checklist Page 38
o Appendix B – Preflight Page 38
o Appendix C – Trimming Guide Page 39
Important Measurements/Specifications:
Wingspan: 1450mm
Wing-area: Trainer: 465 sq in. Intermediate: 465 sq in. Expert : 395 sq. inches
Recommended All out Flying weight: Trainer : ~650gms Int/Expert Wing : ~750 gms.
Wing loading: Trainer: ~7 Oz/Sq. ft. Int: ~8Oz/Sq. ft. Expert : ~9 Oz/Sq. ft.
CG Location: 65MM from Leading edge at Root. Spar location.
Aileron Dimensions:
●For Intermediate Wing: 10cm from root. 5 Cm From Tip. Aileron width 4 Cm.
For Expert Wing: 12cm from root. 0Cm from tip ( extends till edge ) Aileron Width : 4cm.
Control Throws:
Rudder: 2.5cm Left and Right
Elevator: 1.5cm Up and Down
Int Wing: 2cm Up / 1.5cm down
Expert Wing: 1cm Up / 1Cm down
*The above are all measurements that any flier should start at. Later they may change to achieve
their desired flight characteristics/performance.
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What's in the kit.
o  1 Nos. Laser Cut Coro Sheet (A, B, C and D )
o 1 Nos. CNC cut Left Wing Airfoil Foam Panel in its
wing bed
o 1 Nos. CNC cut Right Wing Airfoil Foam Panel in its
wing bed
o 2 Nos CNC cut Foam wing adapters
o 2 Nos. Aluminium round spars ( For Expert Wing, 3 Pcs )
o 1 Nos. CA Adhesive
o 1 Nos. 5 minute Epoxy
o 2 Nos. Lamination sheets
o 1 Nos. Fiberglass adhesive sheet
o Control Horns ( 2 Nos. Trainer. 4 Nos. Intermediate and Expert )
o Clevis ( 4 Nos. Trainer. 8 Nos. Intermediate and Expert )
o Pushrods ( 2 Nos Trainer. 4 Nos. Intermediate and Expert )
o 4 Nos. Rubber Bands
o 3 Nos. Laser Cut Dihedral Brace
(Not included/required in Expert Wing)
o 2 Nos Wooden Spar Joiner Dowels
( Only for Expert Wing )
o 1 Nos Laser Cut Motor mount
o 2 Nos. Aluminium Wing Holding rods
o 1 Nos Battery Strap
o 1 Nos Pin and thread
o 4 Nos Machine Screws
o Velcro Hook and Loop Material
o 1 Nos. 320 Grit Sand Paper
o 1 nos. Hobby Knife
o 2 Nos. Decal Sheets
Electronics Package (Optional) includes:
o  9 gm Servos ( 2 Nos. for Trainer, 3 Nos for Intermediate
and 4 Nos for Expert )
o 1 Nos. 18Amp Brushless ESC ( Speed controller )
o 1 Nos 2822 1200KV Brushless Motor
o 3 Pair 3.5mm Bullet connector
o 1 XT60 Male Connector
o 1 Nos Balanced  Propellor 9x4.7
o 15cm Servo Extension wire ( 1 Nos. Trainer. 2 Nos
Intermediate and 4 Nos. Expert )
o 1 Nos Servo Y Cable (Only for Expert Wing)
o 1 Nos Prop Saver with Rubber Bands
o 8 Pcs Heat Shrink Tube Red and Black
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Laser cut precision Coroplast parts.
You will get all parts illustrated above but it may be oriented separately due to different sheet sizes available and
packaging constraints.
Laser Cut Plywood parts
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In order to complete the kit you will need the following
( check mark against each once you collect the items ) :
o Screw Driver o Metal Ruler
o Marker Pen o 90 deg Set Square
o Hot Glue gun and glue stick o Clear Packing Tape
You also need a clear and a flat table/surface or floor to work with. This is very important.
Having a flat surface will ensure your build goes straight and true.
You will also need the following to fly :
o 1 Nos 2200mah 3S Lithium Polymer Battery
o 1 Nos Lithium Polymer Battery Charger.
o 4 Channel or above radio set ( Tx and Rx )
About Coroplast
Coroplast, or Coro, which is a name given to
Fluted PolyPropylene sheets, is a lightweight,
sturdy, resilient material. Coroplast sheets has
parallel flutes which make the sheets very light
and strong and crushes, instead of breaking upon
impact. Coro bonds extremely well with
CyanoAcrylate, and epoxy. These characteristics
make it suitable for RC applications.
Some building techniques and styles are unique to building RC planes using Coro and can impart
even greater strength when used properly. Please read below and understand :
●Coro has higher strength perpendicular to the Flutes than Parallel to the flutes. Try it on
a piece of scrap. Its easy to bend the material in the direction of the flutes than in the
other side.
●Coro, when crushed can reduce strength. Be careful to not crush the flutes when
building .
●When cutting coro, parallel to the flutes, always cut in between the flutes using a new,
sharp knife/blade. When cutting perpendicular to the flutes, cut in multiple passes
taking care to not crush the material.
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About EPS Styrofoam
EPS, or Expanded Polystyrene , is commonly known as Thermocol and Styrofoam, is a closed cell
rigid and tough foam. EPS foam is available in various densities and we use a high density EPS
foam for CNC cutting our wing panels.
EPS foam is perfectly suited for hot wire CNC cutting, as it warps minimally and when cut the
material is absorbed in the outer layers of the foam and does not bead, like XPS foam, which is
prone to warping and beading.
EPS foam melts with CA adhesive, but Epoxy adhesives work great with it. Also, EPS foam can
be strengthening by laminating it . The Hot Wire process renders a layer of ‘foam-dust’ over the
panels. You need to gently sand that out before applying the lamination for best adhesion.
Sanding needed is super light and should be done carefully to avoid changing the airfoil shape
of the wing.
We ship the wing panels in their original wing beds. The wing beds not only provide protection
during shipping, but also should be used as jigs, when laminating and sparring to reduce the
chances of wing warping.
Hinging Technique.
Coro can be hinged easily. Just follow the steps below to create strong, clean and a flexible
hinge joint.
●Draw a line where the hinge has to be made, on the under side of the surface.
●Place a metal rule on the line, and adjust slightly so that the straight edge is in between
the flutes and not right over them.
●Using a sharp knife carefully cut only the upper surface of the Coro. Do NOT cut all the
way through. When cut, you should be able to bend the joint.
●Now we need
to clear the
hinge joint by
removing the
plastic material
. Bend the joint
all the way
through, and
tape it in place.
Carefully run a
sharp knife on
the edge and
slice of the
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plastic slivers on the edge.
●Once cleaned, bend the hinge joint completely, and put some packing tape on the hinge,
so that half of the tape is on one side and the other half is on other side as shown
below.
Glueing Technique - CA
Cyanoacrylate is a strong and fast adhesive that can bond Coro very well. However one has to
be extremely careful as once bonded it can be impossible to open the joint and will damage the
parts if attempted to be done. Please read below before using CA glue.
●Safety - CA can bond skin easily and instantly. Also CA fumes can irritate eyes and nose.
Try to build in an open space, and use ventilation.
●Coro flutes can drip CA . Be careful when glueing coro, as excess CA will drip out.
●Use very little CA. Only a drop or so is usually needed. Building light is very important.
Try to use as little glue as possible, yet ensure the joints are tight.
●There are two ways in which you can use CA :
A.Put a drop of CA on one part and then, immediately put the other part on it.
B. Hold the joint together and “flow “ the CA in place.
We prefer to Tack glue using one or two drops , and then flow a few drops through the joint.
Remember: Do NOT use CA on the Wing panels.
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Building the Fuselage
Build Steps:
1. Cut out and label the parts
2. Glue the doublers - Assemble the Battery Tray, skids, battery hatch and fuse bottom
3. Prepare/Hinge the Tail surfaces
4. Assemble the Fuselage
5. Assemble the Wings
6. Install the electronics
7. Apply the decals
8. Measurement checks.
9. Go Fly !
Step 1: Cut out and label the parts. 20 mins
Cut out all of the coro parts from the laser cut sheets using the knife, taking
care not to damage the various notches built in. Use the metal ruler to help in
scoring the straight cuts.As you take out the parts, label them by writing out the
part names each as shown in the plans.
Note: We have intentionally kept the laser cut parts attached to the sheets so that
small parts are not lost when we put together the kits.
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Step 2. Glue the doublers - Assemble the Battery Tray, Battery Hatch, skids, Former-A and the
Fuselage bottom 15 mins
In this step, we will glue the two parts of the battery tray, two parts of
Former-A and the two
parts of two skids
together. The battery
tray has notches and
alignment holes on
one side. Make sure to
align them properly.
Also make sure the cut outs match against
each other before glueing. Glue the battery
tray parts together using CA adhesive .
Make two skids by glueing the skid parts together. We provide 4 skids parts . The two skids are made
by doubling each of the two skid parts. Use CA to glue the
skid doublers. Again ensure the notches align with each
other as accurately as possible. Similarly, align and orient
the two parts of Former-A so that the holes, and the
notches align perfectly. Then glue in place.
Place the Fuselage bottom sheet on the table so that the small alignment hole is on the right
side. Place the Fuse bottom doubler and glue in place, making sure the notches and the cut
outs align properly.
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Step 3. Prepare/Hinge the Tail surfaces. 30 mins
Prepare the Elevator by drawing a line 3cm from the trailing edge. You may
adjust the line so it comes in
between two flutes, which will
enable cutting . Refer to the
hinging technique explained
earlier in the manual. Use the
knife to cut out only one side  of
the coro material. The idea is to
create a hinge by cutting only one side of coroplast.
Flex the joint to one side, and clear out the protruding coroplast material carefully. Add packing tape
to the joint to reinforce. Test the elevator by moving it to both sides. It should be free to move.
Likewise prepare the rudder by scoring a line 3.5 cm
from the aft line. Follow the same technique as with the
elevator to create the Rudder hinge.
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Step 4: Assemble the Fuselage 1 hour
Lay out the two fuselage sides as shown below. THIS IS IMPORTANT, as there
is a different left and a right side. You do NOT want to end up with 2 Left or 2
Right side fuselages. The Left side has the hatch cutout, and the right side has
the servo cutout.
Glue the Elevator Servo Doubler and the fuselage side doublers. The Fuse side doublers
must be aligned precisely with the notches, and the cutouts.There is a different Left and Right
Fuse doubler. The Right Fuse doubler has a hole.  Double check before adding glue. The Servo
doubler needs to be glued accurately too.
Lay out the Formers A,B,C,D and
E as illustrated below. Each former has
a top and a bottom side. Be sure to
align them properly as shown below.
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Using a set square to maintain 90 degrees. Glue in the Formers B,C,D and E to the Right fuse
section. Note : Former A is NOT glued at this stage  . Also note that each Former has a different top and
bottom sides. Take care to NOT glue the formers upside down and ensure the notches align perfectly.
Next, Take the Wing mount plate, and align it correctly.
Test fit it into the notches within the fuse, and the Former B
and C . Take time to fit it as accurately as possible. The Wing
mount plate fits only from one side. So be sure to align
properly. Add CA to secure the plate in position
The Wing Mount plate has to be oriented so the cut out is on the rear side.
Carefully lay the LEFT side of the fuselage over the formers and the wing mount plate.
Take time to accurately fit each of the notches in place, without crushing or damaging the coro.
Once satisfied, flow a few drops of CA in place to ONLY the joints in Former B, C and the Wing
mounting plate.
Doesn't it looks more like a plane now ?
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Place the fuselage over the flat building table to ensure it is straight, and then flow a drop of
CA to the joints of the formers C,D and E.
Put the battery strap through the hole in the battery tray. Make sure you put this in the right way .
Glue the battery tray into the right Fuselage section. Note that the notch goes towards the back.
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Install the Former A in place. Carefully align the notches and fit it in place.
The Alignment hole goes towards the bottom.
Install the fuselage base. Put the fuselage section top down, and align the notches in the fuselage
base with those of the formers and the fuse sides. The FUselage bottom should be installed such that
the FUse doubler is on the inside. Again inspect and carefully fit each joint and ensure the Coro is not
crushed or damaged . Once satisfied, add CA glue to each joint.
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Hinge the Battery hatch and Install the battery hatch and windshield.
Create a hinge on the Battery hatch, by following the hinging technique explained above. The battery
hatch has to be prepared by scoring a line 2cm from the front.
Test fit the battery hatch and windshield.
Note: Glue ONLY the front part of the hatch the rear part is left to open. Glue the windshield piece
securely.
Glue the Laser cut ply motor mount .
Be sure to align the holes accurately and glue in place
.
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Prepare the Fuselage top by glueing in the Servo doubler in place. Place the Fuse top as shown
below and glue in the doubler in place. The Servo cutout is on the LEFT side of the fuselage, but the
doubler is glued to the inside surface, so when you glue in the cutout should be on the right side as
shown below.
Align the Fuselage top with all of the formers and Fuse sides carefully. Be sure the coro is not
crushed or damaged and that each notch fits properly. When satisfied, flow a few drops of CA over
each joint. Hold in place to ensure a good, tight bond is made.
Install the stabilizer . It is very important to glue in the
Horizontal and Vertical stabilizers square and true. Take
your time to align these parts properly before adding glue.
Use the Supplied Pin and thread to ensure that the Stabiliser
is perfectly centered as shown below.
Without using any glue, slide the rudder through the notch
in the stabilizer. and carefully install the stabilizer in place.
The notches help align the parts accurately, and the rudder
goes all the way through the stabilizer down to the base of the fuselage. You also
need to measure the distance from the nose, to the tip of the stabilizer using the pin
and thread to make sure the distances are equal. Adjust till satisfied, and then
without moving anything, add glue and give it a few minutes to bond securely.
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Install the skids as shown below. Flow CA glue through the joints to ensure these are properly
glued in.
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Apply the Fuselage Decals.
From the supplied Decal sheet, cut out the Left and the right Window sets and also the square black
Windshield.
Carefully peel off from the backing and align and glue in
place as shown.
After glueing, carefully cut off the holes in the decals
where the wing mount rods will be installed.
Install the wing mounting rods
Congrats. This completes your fuselage. Hope you have enjoyed the build so far. Take a short coffee
break and we shall then get back to glue the wings together !
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Instructions for building the Wing
The Trainer, Intermediate and the Expert wings are built similarly. Except the following
differences :
-Intermediate and Expert wing requires cutting,beveling and hinging of Ailerons
- Intermediate wing requires installing the servo in the center, after the wing build is
completed.
- Expert wing requires installing 2 servos and the necessary Control Linkages
- Expert Wing does NOT come with Dihedral braces. Also the Spar needs to be joined
differently as shown later.
The build process below is for all the three wing types. Most of the steps are common, but
pay attention to measurements, and specially the wing joining steps.
We shall illustrate the steps for building the Right wing. Follow Step 5 for Left wing also.
Step 5. Laminate the Wing panels. 1 hour
Note : In order to build the wings straight and true. Please follow the
instructions below carefully. The airfoils are high performance and in order to
use them effectively, you need to ensure the wing is not warped or twisted. It
is very easy to warp the wings if the instructions below are not followed.
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NOTE: We have figured out, that it may be better to put in the decals, before the Lamination is
done. This way, the longevity of the decals is increased. So just follow the steps below, but after
sanding, install the decals first, and then laminate.
Build on a Flat table or surface
A Take out the wing cores from their beds carefully. Note that there is a Left wing and a right wing.
How do you identify ? There should be a R and a L written on the wing bed. Also, the root edges of the
Trainer and Intermediate wings are cut at an angle ( to give the necessary dihedral ). Each wing panel
has its own bed. Do NOT mix this up. Label the wings and  beds using a marker pen . You should have
Wing-L , Wing-R, Bed-L and Bed-R at the end of this step.
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