Woodstock Soapstone Keystone User manual

WOODSTOCK SOAPSTONE STOVES
OWNER’S MANUAL
KEYSTONE MODEL 204
PALLADIAN MODEL 202
Woodstock Soapstone Company, Inc.
66 Airpark Road, West Lebanon, NH 03784
Toll Free 1-800-866-4344 • www.woodstove.com Rev 0320
Tested To UL 1482-2011 7th Edition
Listed By PFS Corporation
Model 204 Keystone Model 202 Palladian
Tested and Listed by

OUR PROMISE
We are sure you will enjoy your new stove. During the first six months
that you own it, test its performance and experience the comfortable
warmth of soapstone. If you are not thoroughly delighted with the
beauty, quality, and energy efficiency of your stove, you may return it for
a full refund, including the cost of return freight. This is the best con-
sumer protection plan in the industry.
EPA APPROVAL
This Manual describes the installation and operation of: 202 Palladian
Catalytic Soapstone Stove & 204 Keystone Catalytic Soapstone Stove .
Model 202 Palladian Catalytic Soapstone Stove & 204 Keystone
Catalytic Soapstone Stove meet the U.S. Environmental Protection
Agency’s cordwood emission standard for wood heaters sold after May
15, 2020. Under specific test conditions, this stove has been shown to
deliver heat at rates ranging from 9,989 to 46,437 BTU/hr., and average
emissions of 0.85 grams/hr.
The Keystone/Palladian model contains a catalytic combustor, which
needs periodic inspection and replacement for proper operation. It is
against the law to operate this woodstove in a manner inconsistent with
the operating instructions in this manual, or if the catalytic element is
deactivated or removed.
This wood heater has a manufacturer-set minimum low burn rate that
must not be altered. It is against federal regulations to alter this setting
or otherwise operate this wood heater in a manner inconsistent with
operating instructions in this manual.
LISTING TO UL #1482
Model 202 Palladian Catalytic Soapstone Stove & 204 Keystone
Catalytic Soapstone Stove has been tested to UL Standard #1482 7th
edition 2011 for safety, and is listed by PFS Corporation. UL Standard
#1482 is the standard for testing solid fuel heating appliances which is
universally recognized by all national building regulatory agencies
(SBCC, BOCA, ICBO) and individual states.
Please Note: Tested and Listed for US installations only
LIMITED WARRANTY
Your Woodstock Soapstone Stove will be carefully inspected before ship-
ment. We will replace any part which is defective in material or workman-
ship, free of cost, for a period one year from the date of purchase. If a defect
is discovered, please contact Woodstock Soapstone Company, Inc. for
instructions regarding return or replacement of the defective part.
CATALYTIC COMBUSTOR
WARRANTY
The catalytic combustor in your Keystone/Palladian Woodstove is fully
warranted for three years from the date of purchase against any defect in
workmanship or materials that prevent the combustor from functioning
when installed and operated properly. The catalytic combustor is addi-
tionally warranted for three years from the date of purchase for any
deterioration in the stainless steel substrate material. For instructions
regarding return or replacement of the catalytic combustor, please con-
tact:
Woodstock Soapstone Company, Inc.
66 Airpark Road
West Lebanon, NH 03768
Phone: [phone] • Web: www.woodstove.com
Tested and Listed by

MODEL 204 KEYSTONE &
MODEL 202 PALLADIAN CATALYTIC
TABLE OF CONTENTS
WARRANTY INFORMATION/CERTIFICATIONS............ Inside Cover
EPA Certification, UL Listing, Warranty, Catalytic Combustor Warranty
INSTALLATION....................................................... 1-12
Installation, Location, Chimneys, Fireplace Installation, Clearance Table, Wall
Protection, Floor Protection, Mobile Home Installation
OPERATION............................................................13-16
Setting up Your Stove, Seasoning Your Stove, Starting a Fire and Establishing
Draft, Engaging the Catalytic Combustor, Reloading & Overnight Burning, Ash
Removal, Surface Thermometer, Overfiring, Daily Use, The Fall Away Handle,
Firewood
CATALYTIC COMBUSTOR........................................ 17-21
How your Combustor Works, Inspection & Cleaning, Replacement, Catalytic
Probe Thermometer, Frequently Asked Questions, Catalytic Combustor
Warranty Information
MAINTENANCE..................................................... 22-24
Stove, Stone & Glass Cleaning, Gasket Replacement, Routine Checks, End Of
Season Maintenance, Creosote
TROUBLESHOOTING............................................... 25-27
SAFETY................................................................. 28-29
Overview, Installation, Smoke & The Chimney, Heat, Ash Removal,
Precautions, Emergency Procedures
PARTS LIST & DIAGRAMS......................................... 30-33
SPECIFICATIONS................................................... Back Cover

INSTALLATION
For over two centuries, New Englanders have heated their homes with soapstone stoves. A properly installed and
operated soapstone stove will warm your home and delight your eye for a lifetime.
Read this entire manual carefully. It explains how to install your Woodstock Soapstone Keystone or Palladian
Wood Stove safely and how to operate it correctly and efficiently. The clearances and procedures recommended in
this guide are in compliance with the recommendations of the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA), the
Underwriters Laboratories (UL), and the U. S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). You may feel some of them
are very stringent, but they should be followed. They were designed to protect you, your home, and the
environment. Improper installations are a major cause of serious fires. Failure to follow instructions may result in
property damage, bodily injury, or death.
Before installing a woodstove, check your local building codes and any requirements established by your insurance
company.
You may need a local building permit to install your stove. Any changes in your home must comply with building
codes. If the codes have not been fully updated, you may want to check with the Building Inspection Department or
your local Fire Department. A qualified stove installer should be aware of any changes and updates to local and state
codes and may be best suited to handle your installation work.
Many chimney sweeps are qualified installers. If you are unfamiliar with sweeps or need to locate a certified sweep
in your area, you can check listings at www.csia.org (Chimney Safety Institute of America). Builders and contractors
are another option. In some cases, homeowners install their own stoves. Before installing your stove, please review
carefully the stove installation, clearance, and safety information in this manual. Woodstock Soapstone has NFI
(National Fireplace Institute) certified woodburning specialists on staff and available to answer any questions you
may have about your installation. If you have questions, please call us toll free at 1-800-866-4344.
You should notify your insurance company that you are using a woodstove. Before you light your first fire, have a
local building inspector and your insurance representative inspect, and approve in writing, your installation.
LOCATION
A stove which is centrally located will heat the greatest area of your home. Heat
should be able to circulate easily into nearby rooms. Placing your stove near an open
stairway or register in the floor will help transfer heat to other rooms.
Other installation considerations are:
•Clearance to Combustibles
•Adequate Space for Wood Loading and Ash Removal
•Room Traffic Patterns
Most people install their stove in a room they use frequently where they can enjoy the
beauty and comfort of the stove. This also helps in ease of monitoring and reloading
the stove as needed.
A well planned placement will enhance your enjoyment of your stove and may save
installation costs.
The best location for a chimney and
woodstove is in the center of the
house. The chimney will be
warmer, draft will be better, and
radiant heat will be distributed
more evenly.
ALCOVE INSTALLATIONS
The Model 202 & 204 Palladian & Keystone Wood Stoves are not approved for an alcove installation.
An alcove is described as an area less than 512 cubic feet, which is equivalent to an 8’x8’x8’ space.

CHIMNEYS
Your chimney is a critical component of your wood heating system. A properly designed and constructed chimney will
help to provide safe and efficient woodstove operation. Hot exhaust rising up through the chimney also pulls combus-
tion air into the stove through the air damper. If a chimney is too short, or the flue too large, the hot exhaust will cool
and slow down. This can lead to poor stove performance, smoke spillage, back puffing, and even creosote build up in
the chimney itself. An excessively tall chimney could lead to a strong draft, which may make the fire difficult to control
with the stove damper. This could result in over firing the stove and lead to damage to the cast iron components as well
as the catalytic combustor. Whether you are installing a new chimney, or adapting an existing chimney to your wood-
stove, close attention to chimney height, flue size, and location should be considered.
Chimney Flue Sizing:
Keystone and Palladian stoves have 7” flue collars and are approved for the use of 7” or
6” vent pipe. If upsizing needs to occur due to an existing chimney the following general
rules apply:
1. Interior Chimney (no walls of the chimney exposed to the outside below the roofline):
the inside cross-sectional area of your chimney should be no more than 3x the cross-
sectional area of the woodstove flue collar.
2. Exterior Chimney (if there are one or more walls exposed to the outside below the
roofline) - The flue should be no more than 2x the cross-sectional area of the flue collar.
Recommendation: Woodstock Soapstone recommends the Keystone and Palladian wood
stoves, with either the 6” or 7” flue collar, a maximum of 8 inch x 10 inch rectangular or
10 inch round flue tile for an inside chimney . For an outside chimney, an 8 inch x 8 inch
square or 8 inch round would be the largest recommended. The smallest size we recom-
mend is 6 inches round. DO NOT VENT THE PALLADIAN OR KEYSTONE INTO A
CHIMNEY OF LESS THAN 6 INCHES IN DIAMETER.
Note: For flues that exceed the recommended area, a stainless steel chimney liner is rec-
ommended.
Height Requirements:
The chimney must extend 3 ft. above the point where it passes through the roof and
must also be 2 ft. higher than any roof surface or obstruction within 10 feet (measured
horizontally) of the chimney. You should check your local building codes for any other
requirements.
The recommended minimum chimney height is 15 feet from the flue collar of the stove to the top of the chimney. This
includes connector pipe and chimney pipe. There may be other factors to conform to code for clearances on the roof,
high wind, high altitude, etc., that may make the minimum height undesirable or a violation of
building codes.
CHIMNEY TYPES
DO NOT CONNECT THIS UNIT TO A CHIMNEY FLUE SERVING ANOTHER APPLIANCE.
There are two acceptable types of chimneys: Lined Masonry Chimneys and Class A, Pre-fabricat-
ed Metal Chimneys rated to 2100° F. Masonry chimneys must meet all applicable codes for a
safe installation.
Lined Masonry Chimneys:
Always have the chimney inspected prior to your stove installation. If your chimney is not lined
with appropriately sized clay flue tiles, or the clay tiles are old, cracked, damaged or otherwise
compromised, a stainless steel chimney liner or poured liner will be required. Depending on the
condition of your flue or clay tiles, the stainless steel liner may need to be wrapped in a high
temperature insulation blanket. A liner may also be recommended if your flue is too large for the
draft to flow properly (please refer to the section on chimney sizing). Our customer service
department can answer any questions regarding the use of a liner and/or insulating blanket.
Call 1-800-866-4344.
Existing chimneys should be checked twice a year for obstructions, creosote deposits, surface
cracks, chemical deterioration and poor construction. Any damage should be repaired immedi-
ately. Two other chimney related areas that should be checked are chimney penetrations at the
floor or ceiling joists, and at the roofline. There should be at least 2 inches of clearance between
Installing a Stainless Steel
Liner in a Masonry Chimney
Chimneys must
extend a minimum
of 3’ above roof
penetration...
... and a minimum of 2’
above the highest point
within 10’.
Terra Cotta Tile Lined
Masonry Chimney

the chimney and floor joists or other combustible materials. Poor flashing between the chimney
and the roof line can cause leaks and deterioration of chimney mortar.
You should make preliminary checks, but if you have any doubts, or are unfamiliar with chim-
ney construction, cleaning, or maintenance, have a local fire official or certified chimney profes-
sional inspect your chimney. If repairs are required, be sure to use someone who is knowledge-
able in chimney work and familiar with local code requirements.
In addition: All brick or cinder block chimneys should have clean out access with a tight fit-
ting door. Masonry chimneys should have a wash at the top. All chimneys should have a cap to
keep out rain and snow and to minimize downdrafts caused by wind.
Passing Through A Combustible Wall:
With an exterior chimney, in most cases the chimney connector (or stove pipe) will need to pass through a combustible
wall. The following are acceptable methods:
A. Use a section of Solid Insulated Prefabricated Metal Chimney to connect to the chimney - Use a section of insulated
prefabricated 2100° Class A chimney pipe listed to UL 103 HT (at least 1” of insulation or greater) the same inside diameter
as the stove pipe and maintain a 9” air space between the wall of the prefabricated chimney and the combustible wall. This
section of chimney pipe can be supported by a sheet metal plate securely fastened to the combustible wall, with a hole cut in
the middle of it. This will close the gap around the chimney pipe and the framed opening. (See Diagram A Below)
B. Build a solid brick surround around a tile liner - Frame a 3.5” thick brick surround into the combustible wall you need to
pass through. Maintain a minimum 12” brick separation from the clay liner to combustibles. The minimum 5/8” thick clay
liner should be cemented in place and run from the outer surface of the brick to the inner surface of the chimney. (See
Diagram B Below)
C. There are also UL Listed kits available that are specifically designed for passing through a combustible wall. For more
information on these kits, please contact Woodstock Soapstone Company. Please note: there are several UL listed wall pass
through kits available, always follow the manufacturers specific installation instructions. (See Diagram C Below)
For other methods, please refer to NFPA 211.
REMEMBER, UNPROTECTED SINGLE OR DOUBLE WALL STOVE PIPE SHOULD NOT PASS THROUGH A COMBUSTIBLE WALL OR CEILING TO
CONNECT TO THE CHIMNEY. YOU MUST USE AN APPROVED METHOD WHICH PROVIDES GREATER PROTECTION THAN SINGLE OR
DOUBLE WALL PIPE.
Prefabricated Metal Chimneys:
For high efficiency, freestanding woodstoves, like your Woodstock Soapstone stove, a Prefabricated
Metal Chimney must be listed as Class A and carry a UL Listing of 103 HT (high temperature). The
“UL 103 Type HT Class A” prefabricated chimney will have a temperature rating of 2,100° F.
There are prefabricated chimney systems that are approved to 1,700° F and are generally used with
fireplace inserts or factory built fireplaces. These ARE NOT suitable for use with your Woodstock
Soapstone stove.
At the point of the first penetration of a combustible surface (i.e., wall or ceiling) all subsequent venting components
need to be prefabricated “UL Type HT Class A”. If your prefabricated chimney goes through a living space it must be
enclosed, and that enclosure must conform to clearance standards for the prefabricated chimney. Your chimney must
pass through your roof and extend above the roof line in accordance with code standards. Please refer to height require-
ments on Page 2.
Connecting your stove to a
masonry thimble.
The minimum clearance for a single wall
metal stovepipe and terra cotta thimble at the
chimney connection is 12”
A.
Using a Prefabricated Metal Chimney section
to connect to an existing masonry chimney
located behind a combustible wall Use a UL listed and approved wall pass thru kit.
B.
Refractory
Cement
Insulated
section of
factory built
chimney
Sheet
Steel
Supports
9”
9”
9”
9
Refractory
Cement
Fireclay Thimble
12”
12”
12”
12
Stainless Steel
Connector
C.
UL listed
insulated
thimble
Minimum required
air space
Listed wall
protector &
cover shield
UL 103 HT Stainless
Chimney Connection

PREFABRICATED CHIMNEY CONFIGURATIONS
The diagrams below represent the most common and acceptable installations using prefabricated chimney pipe. The nec-
essary components are listed and shown in their appropriate locations. These components are Class A listed to U.L.
103HT (tested to 2100 degrees F.) Only components listed to UL 103HT can be used to install your wood stove.
Installation instructions are described below as examples only. More detailed instructions are available through
Woodstock Soapstone or the pipe manufacturer. ALWAYS FOLLOW THE MANUFACTURER’S SPECIFIC INSTALLA-
TION INSTRUCTIONS.
Installation 1- Flat ceiling through the roof
First, determine where the stove will be placed. Pay close attention to all required
clearances for the stove and connector pipe. Next, use a plumb line to locate the
Finish Ceiling Support in the ceiling above. Cut the appropriate sized hole in the
ceiling and frame in the necessary supports to secure the ceiling support. Install the
pipe adapter onto the first section of chimney pipe, and lower them into the Ceiling
support. Use an insulation shield in the attic to keep any insulation away from the
pipe. If the attic is a living space the chimney pipe must be fully enclosed. As the
pipe extends through the roof, install the appropriate flashing and storm collar to
keep the weather out. As the height of the chimney increases to meet code, it may be
necessary to install a roof brace (typically recommended at 5’ intervals). All chim-
neys should have the appropriate cap installed at the top to reduce wind and weath-
er related downdrafts as well as deter any animals from building nests. The connec-
tor pipe should extend from the flue collar of the stove to the pipe adapter at the
ceiling support. The male (crimped) end should always point down toward the stove. Be sure that each joint has enough
overlap for a secure connection. All connections should be fastened with screws, including at the flue collar and pipe
adapter. (Please refer to the manufacturers full set of installation instructions)
Installation 2- Pitched/Cathedral Ceiling through the roof
Determine where the stove will be placed. Be sure all clearance requirements are
satisfied. Choose the appropriate support for your installation (Support box or Roof
support package). Use a plumb line to locate the support in the ceiling above. Cut
the appropriate sized hole in the ceiling and install the necessary framing to secure
the support. Install the support according to its specific instructions.. Be sure that
the support hangs down below the ceiling far enough to maintain proper clearance
to the connector pipe (steeper slopes require more pipe below the ceiling). Install
the pipe adapter to the first section of chimney pipe and lower it into the support
box (or connect it to the bottom of the roof support). As the pipe extends through
the roof install the appropriate roof flashing and storm collar. Install the proper
chimney pipe lengths to meet code and recommended chimney height. It may be
necessary to install a roof brace for stability. Always install the appropriate cap to
the top of the chimney. Double wall connector pipe is recommended for installa-
tions that have 10’ or more from the stove to the chimney. Be sure that all joints in
the connector pipe are secure and fastened with screws, including at the flue collar and chimney pipe adapter. (Please
refer to the manufacturers full set of installation instructions)
Installation 3- Through the wall
This installation requires the use of an insulated wall thimble to penetrate a com-
bustible wall. Typically a 9”-12” chimney pipe and pipe adapter will pass through
the thimble and make the connection between the interior connector pipe and an
insulated tee with a clean out on the outside of the bulding. The tee and chimney
rising up from it rest on a wall support designed to bear the weight of the chimney.
Install lateral supports as specified as the chimney rises along the exterior wall. The
appropriate flashing and storm collar should be installed if the chimney penetrates
an eave or overhang. An offset of 15 or 30 degrees may also be used to go around an
overhang. As the chimney extends above the roof to meet code it may be necessary
to install a roof brace. (Please refer to the manufacturers full set of installation
instructions).
Stovepipe (Connector Pipe):
Connector pipe is either single wall (sheet metal) or double wall (sheet metal outer pipe with a stainless steel inner
pipe). We strongly recommend 22 gauge pipe (26 or 28 gauge is too thin for use with a wood stove). The connector pipe
should be 6 inch diameter to match the flue collar of the stove. If your connection to either a masonry chimney or prefab-
ricated chimney system is more than 8 feet tall, we recommend the use of double wall connector pipe. If you need to
Installation 1- Flat ceiling through the roof
Installation 2
Pitched/Cathedral Ceiling through the roof.
Class A
Chimney Pipe
Installation 3- Through the Wall
Attic Insulation Shield

reduce clearances for your connector pipe installation, double wall connector pipe would be recommended. All pipe con-
nections, including at the flue collar, must be secured with screws. DO NOT USE GALVANIZED SINGLE WALL PIPE.
Connector pipe is designed to connect your stove to your masonry lined or approved prefabricated chimney system.
CONNECTOR PIPE SHOULD NEVER BE USED AS A CHIMNEY AND SHOULD NEVER PASS THROUGH A
COMBUSTIBLE WALL, CEILING, WINDOW, CLOSET, OR ROOF. At the point where your stovepipe meets the
chimney, you must either vent into a masonry chimney with approved non-combustible transition, or a prefabricated
chimney system with a specially designed transition piece.
FIREPLACE INSTALLATION
Your Model 202 Palladian or 204 Keystone wood stove can be installed in front of an
existing fireplace with a lintel opening of 26.5” high or taller. Installing the Palladian or
Keystone soapstone stove in a fireplace setting is a great way to enjoy the view of the fire,
while greatly increasing the efficiency and reducing heat loss to the fireplace chimney.
We do not recommend placing the stove inside the fireplace, as it would be difficult to
access the control levers, load the stove, and much of the heat radiating off the stove
would not circulate into the room.
The preferred method is to install a stove in front of a fireplace and run a stainless steel
‘flex’ liner down the chimney, connecting it to the stove at the fireplace. Chimneys with
large flues should be re-lined to achieve proper draft. If the chimney does not have a tile
lined flue or if the tile is cracked or compromised, an additional insulating material must
be used.
It is important that there be a secure connection between the stove and the flue
liner. It is NOT acceptable to simply install a plate in front of the fireplace and run
a stovepipe through it. The stove pipe must connect with the liner for a continu-
ous outlet to the top of your chimney.
Stainless steel flex liner kits come in a variety of lengths and are readily available. These
kits include a flexible stainless steel pipe, tee with snout & clean out, a block-off plate for
the top of the chimney and a cap. Please contact Woodstock Soapstone Company for
more information on these kits. ALWAYS FOLLOW THE MANUFACTURER’S SPE-
CIFIC INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS.
If the fireplace surround is clad in wood trim, the proper clearance to a combustible
will need to be maintained. See illustrations to the left. An unprotected wood mantel
needs to be a minimum of 30” from the top of the stove. If a mantel shield is installed
that clearance can be reduced to 12”.
DO NOT VENT YOUR WOOD STOVE THROUGH A FACTORY BUILT FIRE-
PLACE UNLESS IT IS SPECIFICALLY LISTED FOR SUCH AN INSTALLATION .
Most factory-built fireplace chimney systems are only rated to 1,700° F, which is not sufficient for a freestanding wood
burning stove.
FLOOR PROTECTION REQUIREMENTS
Your Woodstock Soapstone stove must be set on an approved hearth or floor protection.
The hearth protects your floor from two hazards:
• Heat Transfer: Heat radiation from the bottom, front, and sides of the woodstove
• Ember Protection: Sparks and hot coals that may fall out during ash removal and
reloading of firewood
DO NOT INSTALL YOUR WOODSTOCK SOAPSTONE STOVE ON A COMBUSTIBLE SUR-
FACE (WOOD, CARPET, LAMINATE, OR VINYL, FOR EXAMPLE).
Even if you have a stone or tile overlay on wood, it is still considered combustible since the surface materials will not
provide adequate heat transfer protection.
Cap
Top Plate
Stainless
Liner
Keystone Stove in front of an
existing fireplace
30” clearance off stove
top without protection.
12” with a proper
mantel shield
Cleanout Tee
& Snout
Wood
trim
18”min. to combustible trim or
12” with rear heat shield
Wood
trim

Your stove MUST sit on one of the following:
•A hearth pad of solid masonry (brick or tile on concrete and mortared in place)
•A prefabricated hearth pad listed to UL approved standards. These pads are made to be placed on an existing floor.
Woodstock Soapstone Company has a good selection of these pre-made pads.
•A custom designed pad constructed of approved non-combustible materials which will protect the floor from sparks,
hot coals, and ashes; and prevents heat from being transferred onto the floor beneath.
IFYOU CHOOSE TO BUILD YOUR OWN HEARTH PAD
1) Start with a plywood base or sub-floor.
Over this apply:
2) a layer of insulating board with an R-Value of at least 0.59. Depending on the mate-
rial you choose, the insulating board can be as little as 1/2” thick. For additional
help with material specifications, contact Woodstock Soapstone Company at 1-800-
866-4344 or at [email protected].
Over this apply:
3) 1/4” or greater of a decorative, non-combustible material such as tile, slate, stone,
or brick. Use mortar or grout to set the material in place, then grout the seams.
Specifications for floor protectors may be listed in terms of R-value, K-value, or C-value.
To convert K or C value to R-value use the following formulas.
K to R: R=1/K x T (Thickness of the alternate material in inches)
C to R: R=1/C
Once alternate materials have been converted to R-values, the values of multiple layers can be added to determine the
combined protection. If the overall R-value meets or exceeds the specified 0.59 then the materials are acceptable.
DO NOT USE: Old-fashioned stove boards that were commonly sold in hardware stores as they DO NOT have ade-
quate protection and ARE NOT approved for primary floor protection under your stove.
Hearth Rugs also ARE NOT meant to be used as primary hearth protection. These are made to be used in addition to
an approved hearth, and are used as auxiliary decorative protection. They are not made to be a substitute for an
approved hearth pad.
Hearth Sizing:
Clearances for your Palladian/Keystone stove on the front, back and sides must be taken into consideration when
determining the placement and size of your floor protection. Vertical dimensions can be added to horizontal dimensions
on all but the loading door side to equal the clearances needed to a combustible floor surface. For example, if you are
required to have 10 inches in front of the stove for clearance and you have a raised hearth that measures 5 inches high,
the stove can sit 5 inches from the edge to equal the 10 inches required. The floor protection must extend under any hori-
zontal connector pipe and 2 inches beyond each side.
You can build your own hearth pad to fit
your decor. The hearth pad must meet a
minimum R value of .59
trim
board
1/4” slate or tile
3/4” plywood
or subfloor
non-combustible
insulation board
R-values of common hearth materials:
Ceramic Tile 1/4” 0.020
Granite 1/4” 0.020
Slate 1/4” 0.025
Cement Mortar 1/2” 0.025
Cementboard 1/4”-1/2” 0.20-0.39
Common Brick 2.25” 0.450
Common Brick 4.00” 0.800
Mineral/Ceramic Fiber Board 1/2” 1.10-1.470
Please Note: Always check with the manufacturer of the hearth material used to
verify the R or K value.
K Values cannot be added, convert to R value before adding multiple layers.

PARALLEL INSTALLATION HEARTH PAD
A. Floor protection in front of stove using 7” flue collar = 8”
Floor protection in front of stove using 6” reducer= 10”
B. Floor protection at loading door side = 16”
C. Floor protection non-loading door side = 8”
D. Floor protection behind stove = 8”
Minimum hearth size in a parallel installation is:36”D x 49”W
Recommended size is: 48” D x 60”W
CORNER HEARTH PAD
Minimum hearth size in a corner installation must be 54”x54” (with the front corner cut off). NOTE: On a hearth of mini-
mum size, the stove will not be centered left to right, but will meet the minimum required clearances.
Calculating a Corner Hearth Pad (per NFPA 211):
A=C x 1.414 + W/2 + D + Front Hearth Requirement
A =distance from corner to the front of the hearth pad
C = clearance from rear corner of appliance to wall (12” w/ rear heat shield)
1.414 = a constant
W/2 = one half the appliance width (12.5”)
D=appliance depth (20”)
Front Hearth Clearance= 10”
Example:
Palladian/Keystone with the Rear Heat Shield & Pipe Shield
& 6” Flue
A= 12” x 1.414 + 12.5” + 20”+10” A= 59.50”
Note: If using the 7” Flue A= 57.50”
WALL PROTECTION
The Keystone & Palladian models have been tested to UL standards for
clearances to combustible walls. The minimum clearances to unprotected walls are as follows:
Minimum clearances with no heat shields to unprotected combustible walls:
From the back-------------------30”
From the sides-------------------18”
Do not assume that a wall is not combustible because it has a nonflammable surface. A wall with any combustible
materials in it must be considered combustible. For example, a brick wall attached to wood studs is considered a com-
bustible wall. Over time, heat will pass through bricks and heat the wood, lowering the ignition temperature of the
studs, possibly resulting in a fire. As waves of radiant heat energy meet a combustible object, heat is absorbed and the
temperature of the object is raised, which can result in spontaneous combustion. Similarly, wood-framed walls which are
covered with tile, stone or fire-rated sheetrock must be considered combustible. Fire-rated sheetrock is also considered
combustible due to the paper covering.
If you wish to install your stove closer to a combustible wall than standard clearances will permit, you can either attach
a UL approved stove & pipe shield, or mount a protective non-combustible shield on the wall.
Stove and Pipe Shields:
Clearances can be reduced by attaching a UL approved heat shield and pipe shield. Woodstock Soapstone Company
carries heat shields specifically designed for this stove. When using one or both of these shields,the clearance behind the
stove can be reduced to 14.5 inches when top venting. The clearance behind the pipe can be reduced to 10 inches.
A=57.5”
or
59.5”
CORNER HEARTH PAD
Palladian/Keystone shown above
centered left to right
16”
8” with 7” flue
10”with 6” flue
8”
8”
Hearth pad must extend at least 16” on the loading door
side and 8” on non-loading door side and back. Front
will be either 8” or 10” depending on the flue size.
25”
20”

Wall shields:
Clearances can also be reduced by mounting a ventilated shield on the wall that extends 36” out
beyond the stove (see diagram below). If you are installing wall protection, it should be spaced
out from the wall one inch. This air space allows air to flow freely behind the shield, cooling the
combustible wall and preventing a pocket of hot air from being trapped behind the shield. The
wall protection can be attached to the studs using long screws and ceramic wall spacers. The
spacers should not be installed directly behind the stove. The top and either a.) both sides, or b.)
the bottom must be left open for adequate ventilation.
*These clearances meet or exceed requirements of NFPA 211, Standard for Chimneys, Fireplaces, Vents, and Solid Fuel
Burning Appliances.
• These clearances apply to walls, ceilings, furniture and other combustibles.
• The 36” Vertical Stack Shield attaches to the back of the stove pipe and prevents excess heat
from being radiated from the pipe. Heat shield protection is only required for the first 36” of
vertical connector pipe.
• At least 30” is required from the front of the stove to combustibles (such as curtains, wall
hangings, and furniture).
The same clearances from your stove and stove pipe apply to both fireplace and freestanding
installations. Be particularly careful to check clearances to a wood mantel or a wood fireplace
facade. You must maintain a 30” clearance to an unprotected wood mantel. See Fireplace
Installations on Page 5.
Clearance Table For Model 202/204 Palladian & Keystone
Type of Installation!Top Vent Rear Vent Rear Vent with elbow Stove Sides
Type of protection"Stove Back Stovepipe
No Protection 30” 30” 30” 20” 18”
3 1/2” thick Masonry Against 20” 20” 26” 14” 14”
Combustible Wall*
3 1/2” thick Masonry with 12” 12” 19” 7” 12”
1” ventilated airspace*
24 ga. sheet metal with 12” 12” 19” 7” 12”
1” ventilated airspace*
1/2” thick non-combustible 12” 12” 19” 7” 12”
insulation board with 1” airspace*
UL Listed Rear Heat Shield and 14.5” 14.5”stove 22” 10” 18”
36” Vertical Stack Shield
Clearance
from stove
back and pipe,
which goes
straight up
Clearance
from stove
back and pipe,
which goes
straight back
Clearance from stove back
and vertical single wall
connector pipe. Using
reducer & 6”stove pipe.
81” Required Width
56”
Required
Height
EXAMPLE:
Wall shield sizing with the 12”
Minimum Clearance to
Combustible Wall/Top Venting.
Note: Wall shield size will vary
depending on distance between
stove and wall.
12”
Rear heat shield & pipe
shield greatly reduce
required clearances
30”
30” clearance from
top of stove to unpro-
tected wood mantel

CLEARANCE INSTALLATION DIAGRAMS
1) Parallel Installation, Single Wall Pipe, Top Vent
A
B
C
B
2) Parallel Installation, Single Wall Pipe, Back Vent
NO HEAT SHIELD
A. Back of stove to wall = 30” C. Above pipe to ceiling = 20”
B. Back of pipe to wall = 20” D. Side of stove to wall = 18”
WITH REAR SHIELD & PIPE SHIELD ATTACHED
A. Back of stove shield to wall = 22” C. Above pipe to ceiling = 20
B. Back of pipe shield to wall = 10” D. Side of stove to wall = 18”
WITH REAR HEAT SHIELD & PIPE SHIELD ATTACHED
A. Back of stove shield to wall = 14.5” C. Above pipe to ceiling = 20”
B. Back of pipe shield to wall = 10” D. Side of stove to wall = 18”
D
NO HEAT SHIELD
A. Back of stove to wall = 30” C. Above pipe to ceiling = 20”
B. Back of pipe to wall = 20” D. Side of stove to wall = 18”
D
A
C

A
B
NO HEAT SHIELD
A. Stove corners to side walls = 18”(determines placement)
B. Pipe to side walls = 20”
WITH REAR SHIELD & PIPE SHIELD ATTACHED
A. Stove corners to side walls = 12”(determines placement)
B. Back of pipe shield to side walls = 10”minimum
B
4) Corner Installation, Single Wall Pipe, Back Vent
NO HEAT SHIELD
A. Stove corners to side walls = 18” (determines placement)
B. Pipe to side walls = 25”
WITH REAR HEAT SHIELD & PIPE SHIELD ATTACHED
A. Stove corners to side walls = 12” (determines placement)
B. Pipe to side walls = 10”minimum
3) Corner Installation, Single Wall Pipe, Top Vent
CLEARANCE INSTALLATION DIAGRAMS
TOP VENT
A

MOBILE HOME INSTALLATION
CAUTION: THE STRUCTURAL INTEGRITY OF THE MOBILE HOME FLOOR, WALL AND CEILING/ROOF MUST
BE MAINTAINED.
Both the Keystone and Palladian stoves are approved for installation in a mobile home. Along with the general
installation requirements for your stove, there are further regulations that must be followed for installing a stove in a
mobile home. These regulations assume that the structure is very tightly constructed, made of metal, and that the home
can be moved. Mobile home regulations vary from one locality to another, and may include some, or all, of the following:
•The stove must be attached to the floor of the home.
•The stove must be grounded to the mobile home’s chassis.
•You must maintain the structural integrity of the home.
•You must bring outside air to the stove for combustion.
•You must use close clearance (double wall) connector pipe between stove and chimney.
•You must install a rain cap with spark arrestor.
•You may NOT install the appliance in a bedroom.
Since mobile homes are tightly constructed, YOU MUST SUPPLY OUTSIDE COMBUSTION AIR DIRECTLY TO THE
STOVE. Woodstock Soapstone Company makes an outside air adapter that attaches to the back of the stove. The flange
on this adapter will accept a 4” duct. We recommend flexible aluminum duct for ease of installation. Run the duct
through the floor to a ventilated crawl space below, and have it terminate in the crawl space underneath the stove. You
may want to install a piece of screen at the termination of the duct to keep out unwanted insects.
In a mobile home, the interior connector pipe must be close clearance (double wall) pipe. SINGLE WALL
CONNECTOR PIPE IS NOT ALLOWED IN A MOBILE HOME INSTALLATION.
Finally, metal straps must be used to bolt the stove to the floor of the mobile home. These straps are available from
Woodstock Soapstone Company at no charge.
Additional information about the installation of wood burning appliances in mobile homes is available from the
Department of Housing and Urban Development (HUD).
SETTING UP YOUR STOVE
Before you light your stove for the first time, please follow these instructions.
1) Remove the combustor shipping bolts 2) Install the bottom heat shield, 3) Install the flue
collar/cover plate, 4) Attach the knob for the bypass handle, and 5) Remove the ash pan cover.
(1.) Remove the combustor shipping bolts:
Before attaching your flue collar and cover plate, you will want to remove the shipping bolts that
were installed for transportation purposes. (1) First make sure the lever in the back is in the
upright position, closing the bypass cover. (2)Using either the top or back opening, reach into the
upper section of the stove and remove the heat deflector using a 7/16” wrench. The deflector is
installed with one bolt and star washer. (3) Lift the deflector and turn it 90° to remove it
temporarily from the stove. You’ll now have view of the combustor. (4) Using a 1/2” wrench,
remove the two long bolts and washers on the right and left side of the combustor and discard. (5)
Reinstall the heat deflector.
(2.)How to attach the Palladian/Keystone bottom heat shield:
The bottom heat shield prevents excess heat from being radiated from the ash pan housing onto
the hearth. The bottom heat shield also contains a pocket to hold the Fall-Away Handle.
1. Attach the “V-Shaped” pocket to the bottom of the heat shield. Hardware is
included with the manual and the 4 holes are pre-drilled. This pocket serves as
storage for the Fall-Away Handle.
2. There are 4 threaded holes in the bottom of the stove that line up with the 4 holes in
the shield. Slide the shield under the stove and attach it to the bottom of the stove
with the 4 bolts provided in the manual package. The shield hangs down below the
bottom of the stove, and rests on the bolt heads, leaving air space for cooling.
3. The “V-Shaped” pocket will be on the bottom of the heat shield, right under the ash door. Slide the Fall-Away Handle
into the V-pocket for easy storage.
Installation of Keystone and Palladian
bottom heat shield and V-pocket. The Fall Away
Handle slides into the V-pocket, as shown above.
Remove Combustor Heat Deflector
Remove Shipping Bolts

(3) How to attach the Palladian/Keystone Flue Collar and Cover Plate:
The flue collar and cover plate are interchangeable, so first you must decide whether you will vent your stove from the
top or the back. If you are venting from the top, you will put the flue collar on the top vent and the cover plate on the
back vent. If you are venting from the back, you will do the opposite.
TOP VENTING: First, attach the flue collar to the top of the stove using 4 of the 6 flat
headed machine screws included in the manual package. (An allen wrench is provided to
tighten them.)
Second, attach the remaining cover plate to the back of the stove. When you attach this part,
the top two screws are slightly longer than the bottom two screws, and they are already in the
screw holes to help eliminate confusion. Remove these two screws from the back, and reuse
them to attach the cover plate. The two screws for the bottom are included in the manual
package.
Do not overtighten these screws: simply tighten until the gasket has seated and the screws
are snug. When you top vent a Keystone and install the cover plate on the back of the stove,
you can put the soapstone insert on the top of the stove, right in front of the flue collar. It will
provide a convenient raised cooking surface for kettles and pots.
REAR VENTING: Attach the flue collar to the back of the stove using the 2 screws that are
already in the top holes plus 2 of the flat headed machine screws included in the manual
package. (An allen wrench is provided to tighten them.) The Keystone cover plate has a
soapstone insert when it is installed on top of the stove.
(4) How to Attach the Palladian/Keystone Bypass Damper Knob:
Attach the “press-on” black plastic knob on the end of the damper rod at the back of the stove
using a pushing, twisting motion; or gently hammer the knob onto the rod with a soft mallet.
(5.) Remove your Ash Pan Cover:
Open your ash pan door, located on the right side of the stove, below the loading door, slide
the ash pan out and remove the cover and set it aside. The cover can be used when removing
the ash pan from the stove for safe disposal of the accumulated ash.
From top to bottom: interchange-
able flue collar; Keystone cover
plate; and Palladian cover plate.
Remove the ash pan lid before
starting your first fire.

OPERATION
Prior to operating your new Keystone/Palladian woodstove, please refer to “Setting up your stove” on page 11, located
in the Installation portion of the manual.
Seasoning Your Stove
Both soapstone and cast iron need to be seasoned. The seasoning can be accomplished through a series of small to
moderate fires. Your Woodstock Soapstone Stove is an easy stove to season, because even a small fire will provide hours
of radiant heat once the stove is warm. There are two things you will notice during the first fire:
First, there will be a hot, acrid smell as the stove heats up.This smell is a result of the paint on the cast iron curing.
You will want to have your first fire on a day when you can open the windows in the house to provide adequate
ventilation. Fortunately, the odor is non-toxic and will only be present for the first few fires.
Second, there will be some condensation on the glass. This condensation is a result of moisture being driven out of
the furnace cement in the stove, and condensing on the inner surface of the glass. It takes a
couple of small fires to season the stove and remove this excess moisture.
After the first few fires, the texture and grain of the stone may become slightly more
pronounced, and the color may deepen slightly.
Starting a Fire
THIS IS IMPORTANT: Check the Draft Before You Light The Stove:
Before you light your stove, it is a good idea to check the draft. If you experience a down
draft (cool air moving down the chimney), you will need to correct this before you light the
stove. Otherwise, you may get smoke in the house.
1. Open the catalytic bypass damper by pushing the lever with the black knob all the way
down. This will open the bypass door. (Fig. 1)
2. Push the air lever next to the side door all the way down to “4” to completely open the
air damper. With the lever in the down position, maximum air is allowed into the
firebox. (Fig. 2)
3. Always confirm there is adequate draft before lighting the fire. Hold a lit match or light
a small piece of newspaper in the top of the firebox, where smoke exits. If the flame is
drawn out of the firebox, toward the flue, proceed with lighting the fire. If the flame
stands still or is pushed away from the flue exit, you must establish a good draft before
lighting a fire. There are several ways of establishing a draft, below are a few suggestions:
A) You may be able to correct inadequate draft by opening a door or window in the room
where the stove is installed. Wait a minute or two, then light a match again in front of the
flue outlet. The flame should be pulled into the flue opening.
B) A hair dryer or heat gun pointed at the flue exit is a good way to establish draft
without creating a lot of smoke. After you think you have draft, re-test with a match.
C) Light rolled up newspaper and hold it under the bypass door at the back of the stove.
This should warm the chimney enough to establish proper draft.
Lighting the Fire
DO NOT USE ANDIRONS OR A GRATE TO SUPPORT WOOD. BUILD A FIRE
DIRECTLY ON THE BOTTOM OF THE FIREBOX.
1) Once good draft has been established, build a fire on the floor of the firebox. Do not use additional grates,
andirons, or any other methods to support the fuel in the firebox. Start with crumpled newspaper and dry
kindling.
2) Now light the newspaper. Once it catches, you may leave the door open 1/4 to 1/2 inch for a few minutes to
promote air flow, but DO NOT forget to close it. DO NOT OPEN ASH PAN DOOR TO START THE FIRE.
3) Add small splits of firewood once the kindling has ignited. This will establish a bed of hot coals.
Always perform the “Match Test”
before lighting your stove. If you
light a match and hold it in front of
the flue exit, the flame will be
pulled into the flue collar if there is
enough draft to light the stove.
13
Figure 1:
Open bypass by lowing
lever with the black knob
Figure 2:
Open air fully by lower-
ing air lever down to “4”.

4) Add small to medium splits onto the hot coals. Assuming the wood is dry, the fire should spread through the
wood. After about 10 minutes, close the air damper down about half way between the “2” and “3” mark.
5) After the stove top temperature reaches 250°F or your single wall pipe temperature reaches 300-350°F, close the
bypass by lifting the lever with the black knob all the way up into the closed position. It will stop when the
bypass is fully closed. All of the smoke from the firebox will now pass through the catalytic combustor. The
combustor will generate a substantial amount of heat as it “burns” the smoke passing through it.
6) Adjust the air control damper to a lower setting, our recommendation is near the “1” mark. The closer the lever
is to the “0”, the lower the burn rate, as less air is entering the firebox. The final damper setting will be
determined by the desired heat output from the stove, the condition of the wood being burned, and the draft
through the chimney system.
Engaging the Catalytic Combustor
The catalytic combustor will start to burn the gases and particles in the smoke when the
temperature of the smoke reaches approximately 500ºF, or after about 10-15 minutes of
establishing a strong fire. Each stove comes with a surface thermometer. Use the surface
thermometer to monitor your stove temperatures. The temperature on top of the stove is
approximately 1/2 the temperature inside the stove, so when the thermometer on the stove
top reads 250ºF, it is 500ºF inside. You will find that after the combustor is engaged, surface
temperatures will often rise considerably- evidence that the combustor is producing lots of
heat, and the pipe temperature will go down, indicating less heat loss to your chimney!
Engage the combustor by lifting the bypass handle (with the black knob) up until it clicks
into its upright position and then reduce the air damper to 1. You should see the bright
yellow flames slow down and become more orange in color. Make fine adjustments to your
damper (by moving it closer to 0 in 1/8 to 1/4 inch increments) until you achieve this slower
moving, darker flame. Closing the air damper to 0 will cause smoldering which can smoke
up your stove’s window and produce creosote.
Low & Overnight Burning
These instructions are intended as a guide to operating your wood stove. Your timing and
final damper settings will vary depending on chimney draft, type of wood, moisture content
of the wood, and size of the splits. The Keystone/Palladian model is simply designed and
intended to be user friendly, but it will take some practice to get used to it.
1) Before you open the loading door, you must fully open the catalytic bypass and the air damper. Wait a minute or
so for a strong draft to be established to prevent smoke from spilling back into the room.
2) Stir up the hot coals. If necessary, excess ash should be removed before reloading the firebox. Simply rake the hot
coals back and forth in the firebox to allow the loose ash to fall through the grate into the ash pan. Dispose of the
ash properly. Never put an ash container on a combustible surface, like a wood floor.
3) Place several small splits on top of the hot coals and allow them to ignite.
4) Load the firebox to capacity, leaving space for secondary combustion, with a mix of larger and smaller splits.
Close the loading door and allow the pipe temperature to come back up to 300°-350°.
5) Adjust the air damper to a low setting by lifting the lever up toward #1.
6) Close the catalytic bypass, by lifting the lever with the black knob all the way up into the closed position. It will
stop when the bypass is fully closed.
7) Initially the fire may appear to die out. This may cause a small amount of soot to collect on the glass. Any
buildup on the glass should go away with higher temperature burns
THE STOVE SHOULD NEVER BE OPERATED WITH THE DRAFT DAMPER COMPLETELY OPEN EXCEPT
WHEN KINDLING A FIRE OR RELOADING THE STOVE. It should be “damped down” or partially closed as soon
as the fire has been kindled or, if the stove is being reloaded, as soon as the fire has been re-established.
The amount of combustion air
available in the firebox is controlled
by the air control lever.
The combustor bypass lever; shown
here in the “engaged” position.
When the handle is down, the com-
bustor is “bypassed”.
14

NEVER BUILD A ROARING FIRE IN A COLD STOVE! It takes approximately 30-45 minutes to heat the
soapstone mass of the Keystone or Palladian stove thoroughly. Any attempt to hurry this process and generate
extremely high heat quickly could result in damage to the cast-iron or to the soapstone. Your patience will be
rewarded with hours of “stored” warmth.
The Surface and ProbeThermometers
We recommend placing the surface thermometer 8”-10”above the flue collar on
single wall stove pipe if the stove is vented out the top. If you are reading the single
wall stove pipe temperature, the interior flue exhaust temperature is about twice as
hot. Since the 22 gauge sheet metal pipe is more reactive (faster heat transfer) than the
stove top, it gives a better idea of exhaust temperatures. We recommend engaging the
catalytic combustor once the pipe thermometer reaches 250°-300° F. Once the
combustor is engaged, you should see the stove surface temperature rise and the pipe
temperature drop, indicating catalytic combustor activity. From a cold start it may
take 30-45 minutes to get the stove up to temperature. If you are reloading a hot
stove, wait approximately 10-15 minutes before engaging the combustor.
The surface thermometer is not a precise instrument – it will not tell you the exact
temperature inside the firebox or in the flue. If reading the surface temperature, the
thermometer will not register changes in temperature quickly due to the thickness and heat retention of soapstone. We
supply the thermometer to give you some idea of what is going on inside the stove, and to provide a guide for
operation.
STOVE TOP READING OPERATION
over 250º.....................OK to engage the combustor
400-600º......................Normal operating temperature
600-700º......................High burn range
over 700º.....................DO NOT burn in this range
The probe thermometer can be inserted into the port beside the flue collar in the rear of the stove. The probe
thermometer wll measure the temperature immediately downstream of the catalytic combustor. The sensing end of
the probe extends to within 1 inch of the face of the catalyst. The probe is calibrated from room temperature to 1700
degrees F. The catalyst can be engaged as soon as the temperature on this probe exceeds 500 degrees F, or as soon as
the temperature on the pipe thermometer exceeds 250 degrees (see above). The best operating range for the catalyst is
from 500 - 1400 degrees F. When the temperature on the probe thermometer exceeds 1400oF, we recommend closing
the damper to prevent excessive heat from occuring
Overfiring
The cast iron parts in your Woodstock Soapstone Stove are of the finest quality. Our cast
iron parts have been made in the same foundry since the mid 1980’s, and the foundry
itself has been in business for over one hundred years. Each cast iron part is inspected by
our stove builders before it becomes part of a stove. However, cast iron is not
indestructible. Experts have shown that cast iron begins to oxidize (reddish or whitish
discoloration) at 1400º F. Burning a stove frequently at excessive temperatures is known
as overfiring. When the surface temperature is consistently near or over 700º F, the stove
has reached 1400º F inside. Operation with temperatures in this range can lead to cast
iron warping, becoming brittle, and eventually deteriorating completely. Overfiring can
also shorten the useful life of the catalytic combustor.
Avoid overfiring by letting the combustor do most of the work in the stove. Your stove is operating at peak efficiency
when the combustor is “engaged”, with the damper lever set to a low to moderate setting, and the logs are glowing
with some low flames, or lazy floating flames. You will get the greatest amount of heat per pound of wood when the
stove is operated in this manner.
Daily Use
Your Keystone or Palladian is well-suited for continuous firing on a 24 hour-a-day basis. It will burn for hours on one load
of wood, and will provide steady heat for hours after the fire dies down. When the temperature on top of the stove drops
below 250º during an all-night burn, it is not necessary to disengage the combustor. Disengage the catalytic combustor when
you kindle a fire, or reload the stove. Once the catalyst is ignited, it will continue to function as long as there is smoke to
burn. This is true even if the surface temperature on top of the stove drops below 250º at the end of a long burn.
DO NOT OVERFIRE!
ATTEMPTS TO ACHIEVE
HEAT OUTPUT RATES
THAT EXCEED STOVE
DESIGN SPECIFICATIONS
CAN RESULT IN PERMA-
NENT DAMAGE TO THE
STOVE AND TO THE
CATALYTIC COMBUSTOR.
15
Place the stove top thermometer on the soap-
stone, in the center of the top of the stove, over
the the catalyst, or on the first 8-10” of single
wall stove pipe.

Your connector pipe and chimney, or chimney pipe, should be inspected at regular intervals (not less than once every
two months). Examine the connector pipe for creosote, corrosion, loose seams, or excessive soot. Clean and replace as
necessary. The chimney, or chimney pipe, should be cleaned and checked by a certified specialist once a year. A small
mirror held at the cleanout door of a masonry chimney will be helpful. For a class A prefabricated metal pipe, some
disassembly is usually required.
The Fall-Away Handle
The metal “fall-away” handle, which comes with your stove, can be used to operate any of
the three controls on the stove: 1) The side door latch, 2) The draft damper control, and 3) The
catalytic bypass handle.
The FORK of the handle should be used to turn the latch, to push the door closed, or open
and close the damper.
The LEG of the handle should be used to pull the door open or to move the combustor
bypass into position.
The “fall-away” handle conforms to UL requirements and is made so that if you let go of it, it
will “fall-away” from the stove and not become too hot to handle.
Cooking
The soapstone top of your stove provides a good cooking surface for soups and stews or meals cooked in a Dutch
oven. The soapstone distributes heat evenly for long simmering, and the polished surface is a natural no-stick surface.
We do not recommend cooking directly on the stove top, as the surface will discolor. If the soapstone does discolor, it
can easily be restored by sanding lightly with 000 or 0000 steel wool. Soapstone griddles have been popular in New
England for years. They are available in a variety of shapes and sizes and can be purchased directly from Woodstock
Soapstone Company.
Firewood
Your Woodstock Soapstone Stove is designed to burn seasoned, natural cordwood only. Higher efficiency and lower emissions
generally result when burning air-dried hardwoods, as compared to soft woods or green, freshly cut hardwoods.
The moisture content of some trees may range as high as 50% – i.e., there is as much moisture in the tree as there is wood.
After wood has been stored for a year, the moisture content will usually range from 15-25%. Splitting wood before it is stored
will reduce drying time, result in more even burning, and lessen the danger of water vapor condensing in the chimney, creosote
formation, and damage to the catalyst. It is safer and more efficient to burn dry or seasoned cordwood than green or wet wood
that smolders.
The advantages of burning dry wood are many. Dry wood is lighter, easier to split and easier to carry. It is easier to light,
produces more heat and generates less smoke. If you burn wet wood some of the energy generated by the fire is used to drive
moisture out of the wood, rather than producing heat for you. Dry wood will maintain the highest combustor temperatures
and burn the most efficiently. Creosote is much less likely to form if you burn dry wood.
DO NOT BURN treated or painted wood, coal, garbage, cardboard, solvents, colored paper, or trash in your Woodstock
Soapstone Stove. Coal and artificial logs burn much hotter than wood and could cause damage,
through overheating, to the cast iron or the soapstone panels. Burning treated wood, garbage,
solvents, colored paper or trash may result in the release of toxic fumes and may poison or
otherwise render the catalytic combustor ineffective.
Burning cardboard, loose paper, and trash will add significantly to ash and soot build-up, and it
will not produce much heat. Fly ash from improper fuel can also coat or plug the combustor,
causing smoke spillage into the room.
Under normal operating conditions, the Woodstock Soapstone Stove is designed to last for
generations. It is not, however, designed for continuous over-firing, or firing with coal, artificial
logs or trash.
DO NOT BURN
• Treated Wood
• Coal
• Garbage
• Cardboard
• Solvents
• Colored Paper
• Trash
The fall-away handle may be used
to operate the controls on your
stove when they are too hot to
handle safely.
CAUTION
NEVER USE GASOLINE, LANTERN FUEL, KEROSENE, CHARCOAL LIGHTER FLUID, OR SIMILAR LIQ-
UIDS, TO START OR ‘FRESHEN UP’ A FIRE IN THIS STOVE. KEEP ALL SUCH LIQUIDS WELL AWAY
FROM THE STOVE WHILE IT IS IN USE.
16

CATALYTIC COMBUSTORS
Here is how your catalytic combustor works.
The catalytic combustor is a stainless steel foil with hundreds of cells. Precious metals,
such as platinum, are sprayed on the inside of these cells to coat the steel foil. This
creates the surface area which interacts with the wood smoke. The catalytic combustor in
your stove is very similar to the one in the exhaust system of your automobile and works
to achieve the same results - high efficiency and clean air!
When you first start a fire, you should bypass your catalytic combustor and let the smoke go directly up the chimney.
Once wood smoke reaches 500º F internally (about 10-15 minutes after re-establishing a strong fire), it is hot enough to
ignite the catalytic combustor. As the wood smoke passes through the cells in the combustor, the smoke reacts with the
precious metals which line the inside of the honeycomb and both combustible gases and particles in the smoke ignite
and burn. This “catalytic burn” reduces emissions and also increases heat output from the stove.
Without a catalytic combustor, between 5% - 40% of the chemical energy contained in wood simply escapes up the
chimney when wood is burned. Energy laden gases are exhausted up the chimney where they pollute the air or may
condense on the inside of the chimney flue as creosote. The slower the burn, without a catalytic combustor, the greater
the amount of energy that is lost. A long smoldering fire is the least efficient use of energy in wood, yet it produces lots
of smoke, which is the fuel supply for the catalytic combustor.
Most of the chemical compounds in wood smoke are combustible. The catalyst produces
high temperatures, which loosen the bonds of these chemical compounds and “burns” wood
smoke. A stove that “burns” these compounds and uses smoke as additional fuel will burn
more efficiently and produce more heat, while reducing creosote and air pollution at the same
time. However, most stoves cannot consistently produce temperatures high enough to burn
cleanly, particularly during long burning times - hence the need for a catalytic combustor.
Your catalytic combustor can get the most efficiency out of every piece of wood if it has
three things: temperature, turbulence, and time.
1. Temperature. The catalytic combustor can only start burning the gases in the wood smoke
after the smoke has reached at least 500 degrees F. Before the smoke reaches that
temperature, it simply is not hot enough to start the reaction at the combustor. This will
result in an inefficient smoldering fire.
2. Turbulence. The wood smoke can interact best with the precious metals inside the foil
cells if there is some variation in the air flow. Increased turbulence enables more of the
wood smoke to come into contact with more cells. The exhaust path as well as the irregular surface of the combustor
cells adds needed turbulence.
3. Time. Once the temperature and turbulence are achieved, the catalytic combustor just
needs to have enough time to burn all the gases in the wood smoke. For this reason, it is
best to minimize the amount of air you allow into the firebox once the combustor is
ignited. Allowing too much air into the firebox speeds up the rate at which the fire burns.
The ideal air setting for a long catalytic burn allows enough air to keep the wood burning
and producing smoke.
With proper care, a new catalytic combustor will give years of fuel savings and lowered
emissions. By following some simple guidelines you can ensure maximum combustor performance and longevity. Your
catalytic combustor is designed to last for 12,000 -14,000 hours of use. You can ensure yourself of getting the maximum
life from your combustor by following these simple guidelines:
1) Burn only natural, well-seasoned wood.
2) Wait until the exhaust gases reach about 500 degrees F (internally) before engaging the catalytic combustor (about
10-15 minutes after re-establishing a strong fire).
3) Bypass the combustor before reloading and leave the bypass open for a few minutes after reloading to raise
the temperature in the stove.
4) Don’t overfire the stove.
5) Clean the combustor regularly. See instructions below.
Cut-away drawing of the airflow
pattern in a Palladian & Keystone.
Air enters the firebox by washing
down over the window and exits
after going through the combustor.
Stainless Steel Foil Catalytic Combustor
within a steel frame.
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