XCS ULTIMATE 2 SLED User manual

ULTIMATE 2
SLED
BY
XCS INC.
MANUAL
Rev.2.5
2/16

3
Composite Video 0S 304 0S 303 Two HDSDI Video
In only loop through
75 Ohm
0S 304
1-14 Vdc+
2-Ground
3-Ground
4-14 Vdc+
1S 303
1-28 Vdc+
2-Ground
3-14 Vdc+
2B 302
1-14 Vdc+
2-Ground
0B 304
1-Ground
2-14Vdc+
3-Video signal
4-Video gnd.
2B 303
1-28 Vdc+
2-Ground
3-14Vdc+
Upper Camera Platform /Lower electronics housing connectors
Because our sleds are completely customizable, some connectors and placements can vary.
Camera platform rear view
Camera platform left side view
Camera platform right/left side
view
0B 304
1-Ground
2-14 Vdc+
3-Video signal
4-Video gnd
9mm tapped plugged hole for
0B Lemo X3
Often used for 2 pin Tally
connector
Lower electronics housing front view
1B 308
1-Power gnd.
2-14 Vdc+
3-Video signal
4-Video gnd.
5, 6, 7, 8 not connected
0B 304
1-Ground
2-14Vdc+
3-Video signal
4-Video gnd.
Two HDSDI video
loop through
75 Ohm
0.375” hole
With plug X2
Often used for 2 pin tally
Connector and 2nd HD line
0B/0S connectors have a 2 amp maximum output.
1B/1S connectors have a 3 amp maximum output.
2B 303 connector has a 17 amp maximum output.
2B 302 connector has a 30 amp maximum output.
Use only 75 Ohm 1.4Ghtz bnc connectors or higher on the HD video signals. It can be the difference
between a signal to the monitor or no signal. Retire those old analogue video cables to make sure
they are not used with HD video signal.
1
1
1
4
1
1
1
1
8
0S 304
1-14 Vdc+
2-Ground
3-Ground
4-14 Vdc+
1S 303
1-28 Vdc+
2-Ground
3-14 Vdc+

Warranty
Please read before using your equipment
Xtended Camera Support will warranty this product against defects in material and workmanship
for a period of one year from the date of invoice. XCS will pay parts and labor charges to repair or
replace any manufacturers defect under normal operating conditions. The buyer will be responsible for all
shipping charges.
This warranty does not cover, nor will the manufacturer be responsible for damages caused by
abuse, misuse, negligence, accidents, or by acts of God. All warranties expressed or written will be
voided if this equipment has been damaged by abuse, misuse, negligence, or accident.
Thoughtful engineering and design has been made resulting in no serviceable parts inside this
sled and monitor. Care must be taken when using all your equipment. One should protect it from water,
dirt, shock, and excessive heat. Proper routine maintenance of your equipment should be done. After all,
if the equipment fails, you stop working.
If you have any questions regarding care for any of this equipment, please call XCS and we will
be glad to advise you on any maintenance needed.
Proper care should be taken when shipping your equipment to protect it from shock damage.
At least 2.0” of a 4 lbs. Ester foam (or equal) should surround your equipment at all times when shipping.
Buy a quality shipping case.
Unlike any sled ever designed before, it takes a knowledgeable operator to understand the
technical hurdles and advancements XCS has made with the Ultimate sled designs.
We understand you have many options for sleds out there and most of them are less expensive
to purchase. However, an informed operator can quickly weed out all the competition and only one
manufacturer stands alone.
With proper care, this equipment will provide you with many years of service. Thank you for
choosing Xtended Camera Support.
1

UPPER CAMERA PLATFORM
This “Ultra low profile”, drop in style upper camera platform (UCP) has a single quick locking
clamp securing the camera plate in seconds. You will also notice that there is no flexing anywhere, and is
the lightest and lowest profile design in the industry. This allows you to use the shortest center post with
the heaviest of cameras.
After 18 years of operating Ultimate systems we have yet to see any vibration transmitted to the
camera no matter the camera weight, speed of travel, camera angle, or directional changes. This unique
UCP design however is only part of the overall design that makes this system’s stability second to none.
The quick release upper camera platform (UCP) is simply removed by unscrewing the knurled
locking ring and lifting off the post mount. Internal cable circular connectors are keyed so when
reattaching the post to the platform simply spin the post a few degrees if needed, allowing the
interconnection. The aluminum post mount is keyed and fits into the registration pin. Make sure you
securely tighten down the knurled locking ring, a firm hand tightening is all you will need.
There is no need to over tighten the Kipp handle on the dovetailed locking clamp. The Urethane
on the face of the clamp will hold the camera plate with light clamping pressure. Over time you may need
to replace this Kipp handle. The stud is made from soft zinc steel, the insert in the stage is hardened
stainless steel or alloy steel. By design, the Kipp handles stud will wear out first.
After a few years, if you find yourself over tightening the Kipp handle and the dovetail is sliding, or
the clamp is hanging up on the stainless steel shoulder bolts, you may need to simply adjust the two set
screws that keep the clamp in alignment. They are located on the side of the clamp. (See Adjusting
dovetail clamp at the end of this manual)
It takes only 3.5 revolutions to go from fully engaged to fully open on the Kipp handles 10-32 stud
to engage or release the camera dovetail plate.It takes ¾-1 revolution to loosen the camera plate. I
mention this because in low mode you will not want to turn the Kipp handle more than two full revolutions
when using XCS camera plates in low mode to loosen.
On the three 6-32 tapped holes for the receiver bracket on the front of the platform the screw
should not exceed .25” into the platform.
Front view Rear view
1
All composite video inputs and outputs are correctly wired through distribution amplifiers, using 75 ohm
conductors. The HDSDI BNC loops through to the lower electronics housing HD BNC connector. This
bypasses the sled electronics.
2
Composite video in
12Vdc FI&Z power only
12/24 accessory pwr. 2 amp max
HDSDI / Composite
loop through
12 Vdc camera
power
12 Vdc / video out for transmitter
12/24 Vdc camera power
9mm
Tapped/plug
hole

Left side view Bottom view
XCS Sliding Camera plate
The XCS camera plate design is unique in a multitude of ways. Unlike other plates it will not
vibrate when securely fastened. One plate design fits all current camera designs. However, there are
occasions when I like to use the XCS Alexa Adapter plate because of its unique Sony adapter or XCS
BPA adapter plate for the Alexa camera for additional camera flexibility.
You have three 15 mm rod holes in the front of the plate for motors and over 5.0” of Fore & Aft
travel for balance. A dovetail at the rear of the plate for our transmitter bracket keeps your video
transmitter at the highest point. There two additional dovetails on the lower electronics housing for the
transmitter bracket when working in low mode. There are two .375 x 16 TPI tapped holes for the camera
screws when not in use.
The left-right sliding camera plate is the most flexible camera plate ever designed. With slots, you
have the ultimate in flexibility in placing the camera plate on the cameras center of balance. Having the
additional advantage of a sliding plate, you will never again have to worry about finding a center balance
or run out of left or right balance adjustment as you move camera.
You will find ENG video cameras, Sony P5, 55, Arri SR’s, and Aaton are all down the center of
the plate. Alexa, F65 Panavision, Arri and Moviecam are all camera right side heavy, so the camera plate
when screwed into the base will be off towards the camera right side a bit, 3/16th’s to .25” would be
average.
In the beginning of ownership getting use to a new plate trying to find the camera plate’s
placement took a few hits and misses. Not with this plate. With the added design of the sliding camera
plate, it doesn’t have to be perfect, as you have more left to right adjustment than any other system. You
also have your fine balance adjustments at the bottom of the Lower Electronics Housing (LEH).
3
Video in / 12Vdc
Two clamp adjustable set screws
10-32 TPI Kipp locking handle
Knurled locking ring
Center post alignment pin

THE ULTIMATE GIMBAL
Your no tools adjustable gimbal is the most precision gimbal made in the steadicam industry.
Care should be taken so it will provide you with many years of service and reliability.
To adjust the gimbal up or down the post, simply turn the Kipp handle to loosen and move the
gimbal into position and retighten. You do not have to over tighten a gimbal’s Kipp lock on the carbon
fiber post. Snug is generally significant enough and doesn’t need the force required by other gimbal and
post designs.
When making very fine gimbal balance adjustments I have learned that by turning the gimbal
sleeve a little bit like a screw, this helps when making very precise micro adjustments.
One of the unique gimbal sleeve design features is the symmetrical contours on the fork and
cap. This gives the operator the same feel when operating in either high or low mode. The symmetrical
fork design allows considerably more hand room under the gimbal fork in normal mode and you will never
have to worry about pinching your thumb on the fork in low mode. Precise alignment of all three axis, no
tools balance adjustment, complete interchangeability and durability has made this gimbal the most
popular gimbal on the market.
On our standard 115 degree gimbal handle there is a 10-32 locking screw which is used for
tightening the gimbal handle onto your post in low mode. If you are using an XCS precision ground arm
post the screw lock is enough to hold the handle on the post. If you are using any other arm posts we
recommend you use the .187” safety pin that goes through the gimbal handle and arm post. We have
measured to many poor tolerance, undersized arm post on the market that may slip out of the standard
gimbal handle.
Under the foam grip on the standard handle is a .1875” through hole in the handle, if you like to
use a safety pin. We recommend melting the hole open with a soldering pencil. Or ask us to do this prior
to shipping.
If you are using the Ergo handle you will not need the locking screw because you do not flip the
handle over for low mode work.
Gimbal Cleaning & Care
You will find that you most likely will not be disassembling your gimbal and cleaning it very often.
In fact it may be years before you would need to do it, if at all. It varies on environmental conditions.
To remove the gimbal cap place gimbal wrench pins in two of the matching holes on the gimbal
cover.
Hold down on gimbal wrench pictured above, and turn to remove gimbal dust cover. A light tap
with a plastic screwdriver handle may be necessary.
Hold the gimbal upright when removing cap so not to have the fork and bearing cup fall off the
gimbal sleeve. Using the same gimbal wrench, remove the side dust covers on the gimbal fork.
This will reveal the two fork bearings. It is not necessary or recommended to remove the two side
journals or bearings from the gimbal fork or large main bearing in the gimbal cup for cleaning.
When removing the fork & bearing cup from sleeve be careful to slide it off evenly. It is a perfect
fit. DO NOT PRY, TAP OR DISASSEMBLE THE FORK OR BEARING TO REMOVE IT FROM
GIMBAL SLEEVE. If the bearing does not remove from sleeve smoothly, put it in the freezer for
30-40 minutes, as this will allow the bearing to be easily removed from the gimbal sleeve.
4

When cleaning the bearings we use a pressurized non-lubricated spray contact cleaner or
pressurized carburetor cleaner which works perfectly. Be advised to wear eye protection when
using any pressurized cleaner. I would spray the bearings and spin them. Repeat this three or
four times to remove any dirt and excess cleaner.
Lubricate with the oil of your choice. We use a Castro synthetic lubricant, but any type of
lubrication will work. Place a few drops on all the bearings and spin the bearings to work the
lubricant into the bearing cage. This lubricant may fly out when you spin it, so be forewarned.
Wipe clean the bearing journal on the gimbal sleeve. Wipe on a small amount of lubricant for
easier assembly of the bearing onto the journal. Insert the bearing cup onto the gimbal sleeve
and reassemble in reverse order. Once again I would give a light tap on the gimbal wrench to
tighten the cap on the sleeve.
We do not use, and do not recommend using any type of thread locker on these threads.
Gimbal handle removal & assembly
Before you replace your gimbal handle, take your new handle and inspect the spindle end
(tapered end portion that fits into the gimbal fork). Make sure the tapered portion has no dents,
scratches, or marring of any kind. If it does, do not use this spindle. The spindle must be clean and dust
free for assembly.
To remove the handle, please follow the instructions below:
Remove gimbal from the sled post. With clamping end of the gimbal facing up, insert 9” hex head
wrench provided through the gimbal handle sleeve into the hex head screw in the gimbal fork.
Remove the screw that holds the fork on the gimbal handle and set it aside. The fork should
separate from the spindle cleanly. If the handle is stuck on the fork, you might re-insert the screw
half way and tap the top of the hex head wrench. This will disengage the stainless steel spindle
shaft from the fork.
Reassemble in reverse order.
The recommend ASTM standard on the 10-32 TPI dry Alloy steel fork screw is 70 inch/pounds.
28 inch/pounds for a dry 316 stainless steel. Stainless steel is not recommended due to its ability
to loosen over time and temperature ranges. Do not over torque any screw. It may snap or worse
unknowingly be compromised
Failure to properly torque this screw could cause damage
Thread locker of any type is not recommended on the gimbal handle 10-32 screw. If properly
torqued when using a dry Alloy steel screw you can be confident it will not loosen.
What to do if the spindle is turning while you turn the hex head screw.
If this occurs, press down slightly on the fork with your index and middle finger next to the hex
head screw as you turn the wrench. This will put slight pressure on the spindle and hold it while you
loosen the screw.
Other notes:
If you replace the Kipp handle, we recommend not using hardened steel studded screws, soft
zinc is the best choice. Over a period of time Alloy or hardened steel could damage the threaded insert.
If you wish to remove the Kipp handle and use a standard hex head screw, a 10-32 TPI screw
size and .625” long should work fine.
5

The design arm allows the user to expand the mass of the sled allowing greater stability in any
system. By moving your monitor and batteries in/out this will decrease /increase your panning inertia
allowing your system to glide along when expanded, or whippy when compressed.
The two hex head screws on the side of the clamp when loosened, allows you to move your
monitor in and out.
When flipping your monitor into low mode, operators need only to loosen the Kipp handle on the
center post clamp, then flip your monitor and monitor arm over and reattach the clamp.
There is an 8-32 Phillips FHMS located on the inside of the post clamp. If you wish to have the
locking clamp rotated to the other side, simply loosen the Phillips head screw, remove the split clamp, flip it
180 degrees and press it on lightly, then reattach the screw with a bit of nonpermanent Loctite.
Once again we use 10-32 TPI Kipp handles on the sled. If you wish to replace the Kipp handles
you will need the 10-32 TPI stud, different lengths for different applications. A set of these spare screws
are provided with the sled.
2” Telescoping Carbon Fiber Post
Our quick release bayonet mount means never
before has changing center posts been so easy.
When disconnecting from the UCP you will need
to unscrew the knurled ring completely. When
disconnecting from the Lower Electronics
Housing (LEH) you need only to turn the knurled
ring 60 degrees and pull up on the post. When
connecting or disconnecting the center post,
there is never any need to connect or
disconnect wires inside the post. The post itself
contains a custom designed cable with mating
keyed contacts. The coiled cable contains
correct wire gauge sizes for power, video coax
and signal wires.
The multi-layered custom wound post assures maximum post rigidity with no “flag poling” like other
designs. Currently this post design is up to 15X more rigid than current aluminum designs. To extend the
post you simply need to loosen the center post clamp and slide in or out, retighten the clamp when set to
length. There is a slot in the aluminum reducer ring that aligns to the ruler mark on the inner post. This
allows the UCP and Lower Electronics Housing (LEH) to stay in alignment. There is a safety stop in the
inner post preventing the post from sliding apart.
6
Dual Rod Monitor Support Arms

The internal cable and connector are designed to spin and be removed. We changed from a fixed
connector design to make it field serviceable. If the cable slides out the bayonet end it will pop back into
the bayonet mount. Later designs have an internal retaining ring preventing the cable from sliding out.
To assure maximum integrity in the center post, there are no slots or grooves cut into the inner or
outer posts. It’s possible to spin the outer post around the inner post, uncoiling the inner-coiled cable
when connected to the LEH & UCP. Eventually this would make telescoping and compressing difficult.
Be cautious in trying not to spin your inner or outer tube more than 520 degrees in any one direction.
Damage to internal conductors may occur if repeated spinning of the cable persists in a single direction.
There are no serviceable components inside the post. However, the post cable can be easily
removed if need be. Be extremely cautious not to bend or break the protruding connector pins when
removing/inserting the post. If a pin is damaged do not try to engage it into the UCP/LEH mating
connector.
Changing over to a super post can be easily done in 5 minutes. When cleaning a post, use a soft
cloth and light duty cleaner. Do not wipe with a solvent that may remove the ink on the inner post.
Ultimate 2 Lower Electronics Housing (LEH)
Here is what this Ultimate 2 has to offer:
Battery Management System (BMS)
Microprocessor controlled system
that monitors all batteries plugged
into the LEH, draws power from 1,2
or 3 of those battery packs. When
you change batteries you change all
batteries at once. All batteries
plugged in are monitored and
selected by the computer to provide
both 12 & 24 Vdc when selected
based on power demand and
batteries ability to deliver power.
The BMS displays the individual
voltage of each battery plugged into
the system in 12 Vdc mode and
combined 12 and 24Vdc display in
24Vdc mode.
Single Power on/off pushbutton. With power “ON” LED indicator.
Single 12/24 pushbutton power selector.
User can power the system while using up to three 14 volt battery packs.
Or a combination of 1 or 2 14 volt battery packs and a single 24 volt pack.
Or a single 24 volt battery pack.
This allows you the largest variation of battery combinations.
User selectable “LO” battery indicator for 12 and 24 cameras. Blinking super bright amber LED.
On/Off control of the LCD backlight.
Correctly wired for the most demanding power situations, up to 500 watts can be distributed.
Video distribution amplifier for composite video and loop through for up to two HDSDI video lines.
Reverse polarity protected.
Short circuit protected.
On screen text warnings of power failures.
Signal noise filtering for video and power.
Left-right and fore-aft fine trim balance adjustments.
Telescoping battery plates up to 4.5 inches.
Your choice of Anton Bauer, PAG, or IDX V mount battery plates.
7
Battery Plate 1
Plate 2
Plate 3

Getting started with the Ultimate 2’s (U2) basic functions
The Ultimate system is designed to run both12/24 volt cameras, film or video.
The owner can use any type of battery chemistry in any combination.
The lower electronics housing will accept up to three 14.4 volt battery packs or up to two 14.4 battery
packs and one 24 Vdc battery pack at the same time.
The sled can deliver battery voltage when using 1, 2, or 3 14.4 volt batteries in 12 volt mode.
The sled can provide both 14.4 and 28.8 volts combined battery voltage, when using two or more 14.4
volt batteries in 24 volt mode.
In 24 volt mode a 14.4 battery must be on battery plate # 3 and additional on positions 1 or 2 or both.
The sled can provide both 14.4 and 28.8 volts when using one or more 14.4 volt batteries and one 24 volt
battery.
All the sleds 12 volt outputs and all 24 volt outputs are common. One of the unique design features is that
it does not provide an isolated 14.4 volt power source. Power noise filtering is used to eliminate hum
common in other sled systems and reduce the crosstalk that is possible in HD in high RF environments.
Backlit LCD screen- The LCD displays current individual battery voltage of all attached batteries in 12
volt mode. A combined voltage of battery position 3 in 24 volt mode and individual status of all other
batteries attached. Also displayed on sled power up for four seconds is the Serial number and software
revision level. System warnings will be displayed in case there power or over current, dead short in
cables, cameras, accessories.
MAIN PWR- Pushbutton turns the system on/off.
There is an amber LED pwr on indicator.
When turning OFF the power, button must be held
down for at least 1 second.
LO battery indicator- Amber LED blinks when the
voltage drops below the user selectable voltages.
Factory preset for the warning indicator as follows:
12 volt mode- Indicator blinks at 13.4 volts
24 volt mode- Indicator blinks at 24.2 volts
In 12 volt mode the 8 selectable settings are:
12.4, 12.6, 12.8, 13.0, 13.2, 13.4, 13.6, 13.8 volts
In 24 volt mode the user selectable settings are:
23.0, 23.2, 23.4, 23.6, 23.8, 24.2, 24.4, 24.8 volts
User has two different 8 position rotary switches labeled SW1 (24 volt mode) SW2 (12 volt mode)
located inside the electronics housing and can be accessed by removing the 6 screws holding the
housing cover together to select your preference for the low battery indication.
12/24 Camera Pwr button- Allows the operator to select the power Mode the system will be running at.
12V Mode for 12 volt camera systems and accessories.
24V Mode for 24 volt camera systems and accessories, while still delivering 14.4 volts to all 14.4 volt
output connectors. To achieve 24 volts when using 14.4 batteries you need to have at least two battery
packs and one pack has to be on battery plate #3. Or you can use a 24 volt battery on plate #3.
ON/OFF BACKLIGHT button- Turns the LCD screen backlight on/off.
Connectors on the LEH
These are the standard connectors and connections. Options available.
1B 308- Provides 14.4 battery voltage, video signal out 1V Peak-Peak from top stage.
0S 304- Provides 14.4 battery voltage, video signal out 1V Peak-Peak from top stage for video
transmitter.
8

BNC- Standard configuration provides two HDSDI loop throughs from top stage. Up to three available.
Rear Battery Housing
The rear battery housing can be moved in and out by loosening the two 10-32 SHCS. There are safety
stops on the ends so the housing will not slide off the rails. Over 4” of travel increases your panning
inertia.
Trim Knobs
The LEH comes set up with trim knobs on one side. They can be transferred to the other side of the sled
by loosening the set screw and spinning off the knobs. The left-right drive shaft must be removed and
reassembled on the opposite side. See “Swapping the inching knobs”.
Programmable Digital Level Placement
There are two 4-40 drilled and tapped holes on each side of the LEH. These holes are aligned with the
XCS HDPDL housing. The screws should not protrude into the LEH housing any more than .125”.
On Screen (LCD) Text Messages
On power up, the sled’s serial number #0000xxx and the software revision level are displayed for 4
seconds.
Listed below are on screen error messages displayed on the LCD when a failure of a cable, dead short,
accessory or camera occurs.
BATT 1 CANNOT BE 24 VOLTS- 24 volt battery connected to wrong battery plate, B3 only.
BATT 2 CANNOT BE 24 VOLTS- 24 volt battery connected to wrong battery plate, B3 only.
Above two messages are each shown for a few seconds followed by a shutdown of the sled.
24V Over Current Cycle Power- Over current draw on the system or dead short or more than 34 volt
input. Turn off power, remove the failed component, remove the batteries for 10 seconds, reinstall
batteries and turn back on.
12V Over Current Cycle Power- Over current draw on the system or dead short or more than 17.9 volt
input. Turn off power, remove the failed component, remove the batteries for 10 seconds, reinstall
batteries and turn back on.
9

LEH internal user selectable adjustments
To access the internal adjustments inside the LEH you first should remove it from the center post.
Remove the six 3/32” hex head screws holding the housing together. Lift up a few inches and turn it over.
There will be 6 to 8 wires and 1 or 2 connectors depending on your options connecting the top half to
bottom half - they do not have to be removed just be aware of them. You now have access to make the
following choice of adjustments.
1) Set the 12 and 24 volt low battery indicators SW1 & SW2
2) Move the battery plate designation order from standard wiring B1, B2, B3.
Setting the Low Battery Indicators
Factory preset: SW1- 24.2 volts, SW2- 13.4 volts
When setting your low battery indicator keep a few things in mind.
The chemistry, age and watt hr. of battery packs most commonly used.
The length of time I want to keep the system running after the “LO” battery indicator turns on
based the cameras current draw and camera shut down low battery voltage point.
Because battery types and wattages vary, we allow you to simply adjust the LO battery indicator
to fit your needs. There are two different settings. One for 12 volt mode camera systems SW2 and one for
24 volt mode camera systems SW1.
To set each LO battery indicator you simply need to turn the 8 position rotary switch label 0-8 that
corresponds to a specific voltage indicated. This setting indicates the voltage level the LED will turn on.
There are two rotary switches inside the housing and a voltage value key that shows the rotary switch
number and the voltage value it corresponds to (photo below).
Three battery
terminal blocks
Rotary switches to set
low battery indicators
10

Adjusting LCD Battery Display for B1, B2 & B3
The LCD displays output voltages for each battery labeled simply B1, B2 & B3.
The battery plate itself does not designate the order in which the batteries are displayed - B1, 2, or 3.
The three green terminal blocks on the circuit board labeled Batt 1, Batt 2 & Batt 3 where the battery
plates conductors are attached determines which battery plate is indicated as B1, B2 & B3 on the LCD.
So any battery plate could be set up as battery 1 for example, it would simply need to be connected to the
terminal block label “Batt 1”.
You can change this B1, B2 & B3 designation by simply changing the wires from the battery plate to the
terminal block. (See center photo above)
This may be important for operators who wish to take advantage of just one of unique sled designs
allowing it to accept and run a single 24 Vdc battery in conjunction with a 12 Vdc battery. Battery terminal
block 3 is the only terminal block that can accept a 12 or 24 volt battery. Battery terminal block 1 & 2 will
not allow the system to be powered by a single a 24 Vdc battery. Instead the LCD will display a text
message telling you that “B1 or B2 CANNOT BE 24 VOLTS” (See photo above) and turns the sled off.
Battery terminal block 1 can accept up to 17.9 Vdc.
Battery terminal block 2 can accept up to 17.9 Vdc.
Battery terminal block 3 can accept both 12 and 24 volt batteries up to 34 Vdc.
When running the sled with a 24 volt battery block only 24 volt connectors will have power. If you are
running 12 Vdc accessories you will need to add a 12 Vdc battery to one of the other battery plates.
11

Adjusting the Dovetail Clamp
If you find that your camera plate is sliding or the clamp is hanging up on the four shoulder bolts, the
clamp’s two set screws maybe out of adjustment and need to be reset.
Locate the two set screws on the side of the dovetail clamp, and back them out 2 full turns.
With a dovetail plate in the platform, snug up the clamp using the Kipp handle. Do not over
tighten it as if you are clamping it down, just snug so it takes a bit of end pressure to slide the
camera plate in the camera platform.
Snug up both set screws equally then the locking Kipp handle. The camera plate should hold firm.
(I measure the distance of the gap with a caliper and keep it close +/- .001 when new). The set
screws have a semi hard plastic thread locker on them. Once you set screws they should stay in position
without furthur thread locker. But if the screws seems loose do add a bit of thread locker. I flip the UCP
over (leaving the camera dovetail plate snug) and turn the two set screws in equally. This way I
can see and measure the gap.
Loosen and tighten up the Kipp handle a second time with normal finger pressure and make sure
that the camera plate does not slide. If it does slide, loosen the Kipp handle again back out the
set screws a very small amount - 1/10th of a turn at a time each set screw, remeasure the gap,
and tighten the Kipp handle. Repeat if necessary. I set the gap at +/- 0.001” measured at each
set screw when manufactured.
Just so you understand how little you need to move a 8-32 set screw for this adjustment I will
breakdown the numbers.
32 TPI set screw movement:
0.031” per one full revolution.
¼ turn movement equals .0077”
12

Swapping the inching Knobs side to side
The first photo is a cutaway of the LEH carriage and shows you how the shaft sits. It does screw through
a plastic nut that means you will have to turn out the drive shaft and turn it back in.
There are three spacers on the drive shaft. One on the inside end of the drive shaft, and one under the
knurled inching knob.
Remove the LEH from the post.
.050” hex head wrench removes the set screw on the knurled knob, spin the knob off the shaft.
Remove the two Phillips head screws on the bottom as shown.
Spin out the drive shaft, flip it around and spin it back in.
When you have the drive shaft almost all the way in, place spacer on shaft end, and insert it into
end cap.
Add spacer on other shaft end and add the removable end cap.
Screw in two Phillips head screws.
The Fore and Aft knob is very simple.
Loosen the set screw, and spin out the inching knob.
Remove the plastic cap on opposite side and place the knob on the shaft, tighten set screws.
Replace plastic cover on open hole.
13
3 shaft spacers
Two removable
Phillips screws
Set screw