Aeros Stalker Phantom User manual

TABLE OF CONTENTS
Section 1.
General information
1.1. Introduction
1.2. Main data
1.3. Operation limitations
1.4. Flying tests
Section 2.
Set up procedure
Section 3.
Preflight inspection of the glider
Section 4.
Performance and flight characteristics
Section 5
Breakdown
Section 6.
Maintenance

Section 1. GENERAL INFORMATION
1.1. Introduction
The Stalker Phantom rigid wing is an advanced product of Aeros Ltd and Aerola Ltd. It is aimed at
improvement of modern competitive glider with very high performance combined with maximum safety and
comfort.
Please read and be sure you thoroughly understand this manual before flying your Stalker Phantom. Be sure
you are thoroughly familiar with the setup, breakdown, preflight inspection and maintenance procedures as
described in this manual.
In case of any doubts or questions contact your local dealer or Aeros.
1.2. Main data
The Stalker Phantom is a high-performance rigid wing glider designed for foot-launching, soaring and
cross-country flights
Table 1.2.
Stalker Phantom
Sail area, sq.m. 13.5
Wing span, m 13.2
Aspect ratio 12.9
Nose angle, 150
Max take of weight, kg (lb) 160(352)
Weight (without bags), kg (Ib) 41(90)
Breakdown length, m 5.8
Min sink rate(max take of weight, m/sec 0,65
Max glide ratio 19.5
Operation limitations
Table 1.3.
Operation load +4/-2G
Wind speed max, m/sec (mph) 12 (27)
Take off altitude, m 2000
Permissible temperature range, °C -15 /+40
Stall airspeed (straight flight), km/h 30 (18.6)
Maximum airspeed, km/h (mph) 110(68)
Minimum pilot weight, kg (Ib) 50 (110)
Maximum pilot weight, kg (Ib) 110 (198)
After structural, aerodynamic and flight tests, the Stalker Phantom has been shown to comply with DHV
requirements (DHV certificate No. for Stalker Phantom).
ATTENTION ! We do not recommend to use Stalker Phantom for aerobatic flights. Stalker Phantom
requires a pilot’s proficiency not less than Safe pro 4 (club pilot + 60 hours).
NOTE: manufacturer and ___________can in no way be responsible for safety of your flight in case of
exceeding operation limitations stated above in the present manual.
1.4. Flight tests
Your rigid wing glider Stalker Phantom (serial No ___ ) was tested______________
"The rigid wing glider is airworthy according to the present manual".
Test pilot__________________I_________________I

Section 2. SET UP PROCEDURE
The set up procedure should be carried out on a clean, non-abrasive surface.
ATTENTION: After each set up procedure you must perform a preflight inspection of the glider.
2.1. Take the speedbar out of the bag, spread the uprights. Install the speedbar. Pass the flap’s and RVG’s
ropes through channels in the speedbar and the stoppers. Fix the speedbar using the quick-pins. Hook front
wire.
2.2. Rest the glider on the control bar, pull tips out of the D-spar, put the bags inside the D-spar, take the pin
of the nose hardware out, spread the wings (don’t take the bags off the D-spar ends), remove Velcro tapes.
2.3. For one side at a time:
Stand at the leading edge side,
take the bag off the D-spar end,
press on the tongues of the tip clamp
put tip on the hooks
turn the tongue of the tip clamp to the D-spar wall’s side
unroll the sail, holding both aileron and flap
put in the tip tube
open the zipper on the sail’s tip and put the tip rib and clamp wall in to the sail, close the zipper
connect the tip rib to the trailing edge tube

Do the same for the other wing side
2.4. Nose unit connection
Put out the keel tube stinger
Open wings as far as possible – hardware at nose must join. If the nose ear does not match into the nose
fork, turn left and right keel beam to adjust position of the ear, corresponding to the fork
Insert nose pin. To do this, stand at the keel beam side, moving the keel beam slightly
Insert safety ring into the nose pin. Insert nose tube and secure it with the nose pin ring.
Put in the keel tube stinger
2.5. Install left and right trailing edge tube on the keel tube
2.6. Fasten root zippers on the upper and lower sail by 1/3 of their way
2.7. Install winglets
Screw out the head from winglet stud
Put the winglet on the tip so the stud will go through the hole in the tip
Screw the head on the stud and tighten it (winglet must not move on the tip)

2.8.Connect the sail to the tip
fold the tip a little, slip the front and back corner of the sail on the head pins
press the sail to the tip with clamp wall (be sure there are no wrinkles on the sail between clamp wall
and tip)
2.9. Put out the tip tube, fold down the tip strut as much as possible and put the tip strut’s free end on the pin
on the trailing edge. The tip strut side edge must be under the angle on the tip rib’s bracket.
2.10.Lock the tip strut, connect top and bottom sail
2.11.Repeat steps 2.6 through 2.8 for another side
2.12. For one side at a time:
Set ribs to the trailing edge (don’t lock on center yet). Hook rubber of the ribs wire to the ribs wire
holding bracket. Make sure that each rib end is properly installed into the trailing edge tube. The tube
must be placed between the limiting plates on the rib fork (end)
Pull aileron rod out of the sail as far as possible

Attach the lever for rib tensioning to the ribs cable and lock it. Tightening force should appear
when the lever is parallel to the keel beam. If the tightening force appears from the very beginning, it
means that either the rib tips were not placed on the trailing edge tube or the rib tensioning wire is
jammed. It is necessary to check and correct all irregularities, and after that tense the ribs
2.13. Repeat steps 2.12 for another side
2.14. Connect left and right safety wire each other
2.15. Connect flap controls to the flaps.
2.11. Attach aileron levers to the ailerons.
2.12. SPADD installation:
Put it on the pin on the tip rib
Put out the tip tube and insert Quick Pin on other end
Put in the tip tube.
The pin on SPADD’s aileron side must be above the aileron’s pick-up bracket
2.12.Side wires connection:
Insert side wire end plate into the slot at the middle of upright and fix it with Quick Pin
There must be small slack on side wires with RWG off, if they are tighten too much you must check if
side wire freely go through the pulleys or blocked some were
2.13.Install nose and back cover.
Section 3. BREAKDOWN Procedure
3.1. Remove nose cone
3.2. Unhook side wires
3.3. For one side at time:
Put out tip tube
Remove SPADD
Disconnect winglet
Unlock tip strut
Open clamp wall
Put out top back corner of the sail from head pin

Fold tip strut as much as possible (tip tube should be removed) and put out it from the pin on the tip
rib end
Fold the tip a little and put out the sail from head pins completely
Open zipper on the sail, put out the clamp wall from the sail
Detach ailerons lever from ailerons
Put aileron rod into the sail and fix it with a rubber ring
3.4. Repeat steps 3.3 for another side
3.5. Detach flap control from the flap
3.6. Ease ribs off
3.7. Detach the trailing edge tube from the keel beam
3.8. Fold ribs down, pulling by the cord at the tip of the ribs wire
3.9. Disconnect keel stinger
3.10. Disconnect nose tube and nose pin.
3.11. Detach the tip rib from the trailing edge tube
3.12. Wrap sail around the D-spar, trying to avoid wrinkles
3.13. Disconnect tips and put covers on the D-cell ends.
3.14. Fasten flaps and ailerons on the D-cell by Velcro.
3.15. Ensure that the zippers in the center are folded correctly and the sliders do not go between the keel
beam and the D-cells.
3.16. Put protective covers on the keel beam as follows:
-One big cover – at the place of attachment of the trailing edge tube and ribs wire, wide part backwards;
-Smaller cover – at the place of attachment of rear wires;
-The smallest cover – at the end of tail tube.
3.17. Fold wings in.
3.18. Hide wingtips into the D-cells.
3.19. Put the glider cover on.
3.20. Put the glider down, upper side down.
3.21. Disconnect the speedbar, fold downtubes in, put down tubes along keel slightly turn them to be sure
that trailing edge does not touch the keel tube
3.22. Pull the flap rope out so the flap’s angles are out and put protective cover on the downtubes end19.
3.23. Always put the packed glider on earth or on the car with the zipper upwards.

Section 3. PREFLIGHT INSPECTION
3.1. Do complete preflight inspection of the glider. Check all parts and all assemblies of the glider.
Beginning at the nose go around the glider, check all details of the construction. Finish inspection by
checking the keel tube and control frame.
The less you hurry the more you’ll inspect!
3.2. Check nose junction.
The wires must be hooked in and secured.
All bolts must be screwed and secured.
The keel’s pulley lever must have no bends, the control wire must go through the pulleys, the wire
safety brace must have no bents and control wire must do not have possibility to go out from the pulley
3.3. Check the tip area.
The sail corners must be properly attached at the tip.
The Velcro around tip strut must be fixed properly. There must be no wrinkles on the sail which do not
allow the SPADD’s front edge to fit snug to the sail.
The SPADD must turn easily, it should be impossible to remove the quick pin without pushing the
button.
3.4. Check ailerons
Ailerons must turn easily, without extra efforts (to check this, unhook side wires, turn ailerons holding
them by the lever, to avoid damaging them).
3.5. Check aileron rod
The end of the aileron rod must be secured.
The quick pin which connects the aileron lever to the aileron should not be removable unless the button
is pushed.
3.6. Check the rib N5 junction. Open the zipper at bottom surface.
The aileron rod must be fixed at the control quadrant (sector) and secured (locked)
Control wires must go through the sector.
Control wires must go through the turn pulley in the front part of the rib N5
3.7. Check rib’s tips position
Walk along the trailing edge and check rib tips position.
The trailing edge tube must be supported at tip rib pulleys
3.8. Check the flaps deflection.
They must turn easily, without extra efforts.
After unfixing flap control rope flaps must go up easily and quickly.
3.9. Check the root area.
The trailing edge tube pins must be secured
The bolt fixing the downtubes to the keel tube must be screwed
Open the bottom and top root zipper by two thirds of its travel.
The ribs tensioning wire must be locked and secured properly.
All control cables must go through the control pulleys
Control cables must not be jammed.
The RWG rod on the keel must be fixed and locked
The RWG rope on the speedbar must easy turn the RVG pulley and after releasing the rope the RVG
pulley must turn back
The stopper rope and rubber on the stopper rope must not be broken.
Hang-in belt must be secured by the bolt, the nut should be locked, the belt should have no damages
3.10. Check ailerons neutral set up angle
In neutral position the trailing edge of the ailerons must be on the same level as flap’s trailing edge or
~5mm higher
3.11. Check side wires attachment.
The side wires must be connected to the downtubes and should be impossible to remove the quick pin
without pushing the button
The side wire must have slack if the RVG off and must have no slack if the RVG on
3.12. Check control system.
Take the glider as before take off, move control frame right and left.
The control frame must move easily, ailerons and SPADD must move properly.
Section 4. PERFORMANCE AND FLIGHT CHARACTERISTICS
Check and adjust your harness. We strongly recommend that you hang as low as possible (as close to the
speedbar as possible). Be sure that no part of the harness touches the speedbar while pilot moves over the
whole range as he or she will move in flight.
4.1. Take off

Make sure you are hooked in and check your position hanging in the control bar.
Make the flaps ON by 1/3-1/5 way.
If the wind is more than 8m/s (18 mph) or is gusty, you have to have at least one wire assistant on the nose
wires and side assistant. The Stalker Phantom has a slight tail heavy static balance, which does not take
effect during take off.
When you hold the glider prior to your take off run, you should keep the nose slightly up and wings level.
The glider takes off easily in zero winds as well as with strong winds and does not require any special
methods of handling.
3.2. Flying
At first handling performances of the Stalker Phantom seem to be different from those inherent in other
gliders. The reason is that Stalker Phantom handles easily at any speed. Don't worry, you'll soon get used to
it. Make your first flight in easy flying conditions.
4.3. Flight Speed
Remember that the range of flight speed depends on the wing load. If you have big wing load and you fly
at minimum speed for the small wing load, you can get a stall.
Refer to the diagram below to determine trim speed that corresponds to your hook in weight, and adjust
hook in point in order to achieve this trim speed. Trim speed must be a little higher than minimum sink
speed. So, in thermals when you want to fly at min. sink speed, you should push the bar a little.
Flight speed
25,0
30,0
35,0
40,0
45,0
50,0
55,0
60,0
70 75 80 85 90 95 100
Hook in weight, kg
Speed, km/h
Stall speed, full flaps Safety Vmin, full flaps, stright flight
Stall speed, flap 0 Safety Vmin, flap 0, stright flight
Min sink speed Max glide ratio speed
Trim speed
Don’t fly in turns at speed less then min. Safe bank speed. See diagram below.
Flight speed in bank
30,0
35,0
40,0
45,0
50,0
70 75 80 85 90 95 100
Hook in weight, kg
Speed, km/h
Safety Vmin, full flaps, 30deg bank Safety Vmin, full flaps, 45deg bank
Safety Vmin, flap 0, 30deg bank Safety Vmin, flap 0, 45deg bank
At speed over 90-100km/ in gusty and bump conditions you can get a non-periodical hits on the wing,
which appears due to turbulence.
4.4. Turning
Stalker Phantom responds quickly to any bar movement, control efforts are small. The glider turns easily

and quickly at speed a little higher than the trim speed. As the glider begins to turn, you may push the bar
out a little for making the turn faster, and then move it back. Don’t do this at low speed. You must keep
the speed corresponding to the bank angle. Stalker Phantom is stable in multiple 360-degree turns in both
directions and has no sideslip.
4.5. Using RVG
RVG system is designed for increasing glide ratio at high speed. That system decrease the aileron set up
angle on 3deg. Therefore the pitch stability is decreased also and, as result, bar pressure becomes lower.
Trim speed with RVG ON becomes higher on 12-14km/h.
Climbing. RVG mode – OFF(rope is released). Excellent control at low speed, best possibility for
finding good climb. Too much bar pressure at high speed.
Gliding. RVG mode –ON (rope is pulled). Use that mode if you are going to fly for a long time at
speed higher than 75-80km/h. Glider has best glide ratio at high speed. Bar pressure do not make you tired
during long flight at high speed. That is quite difficult to climb with RVG ON due to high trim speed and
not that comfortable handling as with RVG OFF. Also in combination with backward CG position at low
speed the pitch stability can be not enough for climbing in turbulent conditions. So do not use that mode for
climbing.
4.5. Using flaps
The Stalker Phantom has flaps deflection range 0~55deg. After full flaps deflection trim speed is decreased
by 8~10 km/h and speedbar moves backward by 150 mm.
The 0 deg. flaps is the best glide ratio and min sink ratio configuration.
The 15-20 deg. flaps is the climbing configuration – glider has best control with good sink ratio
Big flaps deflection angles are not recommended for climbing due to substantial increase in sink speed and
decrease in glide ratio. These big angles can be used for landing and quick descent.
4.6. Landing
As the Stalker Phantom is a high performance glider, you should land only up the wind and avoid going
downhill. Stalker Phantom requires thorough handling during landing.
For landing it is recommended to use from half flap up to full flap configuration.
That is not allowed to do big flare up. In case of big flare there is high possibility to hit the ground with the
tip and damage the tip.
Keep the wings level, speed the glider up slightly and fly right down till the altitude is 0,5 - 0,8 m from the
ground to the speedbar. At this altitude decrease descent rate by pushing slightly on the control bar. When
you feel the glider unresponsive to the bar movement, quickly ease the bar out all the way before your feet
touch the ground. With a good sharp final thrust, the sudden increase in drag will slow the glider very
suddenly and you will land softly. In zero wind conditions you will make few steps to stop the glider.
REMEMBER. Do not ease the bar out with surplus speed! It leads to sudden flare up and falling. It is much
better not to move the bar out at all, than move it too early.
We wish you soft landing !

Section 6. Maintenance
6.1. Tuning
A correctly tuned glider is comfortable and has good handling in all allowed flight modes. Stalker Phantom
has a number of adjustment points that can be used for changing its performance.
6.1.1. Hang point.
Trim speed should be different for different hook in weight. The more the weight, the higher speed you’ll
have (see Flight Speed). Adjust hang point, in order to achieve trim speed corresponding to your weight. If
the glider has already been tuned for lower weight, move the hang point backwards for a heavier pilot.
6.2. Regular inspections of the glider
It is necessary to check your glider regularly for damages, possible structural deformations, operational
depreciation, tuning. You have to inspect frame (D-spars, ribs, keel, trapeze), wires, all hinges and fittings,
bolt connections, sail, control system tuning.
6.2.1. Instruments and facilities
- Four supporting struts for proper setting up the glider relatively to the ground level
- Electronic inclinometer for measurement aileron setting up angle and angle of the control surfaces
deflection
- Lamp or lighter for searching cracks in D-spars
- Ruler and slide caliper
- Set of spanner and other bench tools
6.2.2. Inspection intervals
Before the first use;
After each rough landing, in order to find any possible structural deformations;
After every 100 hours of flight or annually, whatever comes earlier.
6.2.3. Frame inspection
Inspect D-cells with the view to find any distortions, damage, cracks, especially at root fitting area,
spar belt area. If you found some cracks on the outer surface of the D-spar skin, use the lamp for checking
if this crack exists on the outer skin – light the crack zone and look inside the D-spar, if you see the light
inside the D-spar, that mean you have a crack on the outer skin. If any D-cell damage detected, seek advice
and assistance in its repair from your local dealer. Don’t make repair yourself, unless you have experience
with repair of carbon plastic structures.
Inspect control frame wires and all control system wires, looking for broken threads, tear and signs of
corrosion and replace them if you found any.
Check all bolting. Bolts should be tightened and locked. Where self-locking nuts are used, not less
than 2 thread coils should be visible.
Check the keel beam and ribs, looking for permanent deformation, dimples, signs of corrosion, cracks,
especially near bolts and rivets.
Check rib hinges. Axial play must not allow the rib end to move more then 3mm. If the rib end moves
more, you have to bush the hinge hole for preventing such axial play.
6.2.4. Check the wing anhedral angle. Put the glider on the supporting struts – One strut on the nose,
another on the keel near rear wire fixing point, other two on the left and right side of the wing at the middle
of the D-spar span. Align the keel tube with the horizon level. Measure the anhedral angle by electronic
inclinometer. Put it on the top surface, align with the spar. Anhedral has to be -0.4 ÷-0.6deg
6.2.5. Check the aileron position. Measure the ailerons neutral setting up angle. In neutral position they
have to be placed on 1.2-1.4 deg up from the keel level.
6.2.6. Check the ailerons deflection angle. Maximum deflection angle up is 28deg, down – 15deg.
6.2.7. Check the hooking strap for wear. Replace it if discovering even the slightest symptom of wear.
6.2.8. Inspect the sail.
Thoroughly inspect the sail, looking for tears, torn threads at the seams, especially along the rear edge and
in the root part of the wing. Contact your local dealer or the manufacturer if the sail is damaged, and you’ll
get professional repair.
6.3. Maintenance
You should keep your glider in good condition, to ensure it has optimum performance for a long time.
Don’t put the glider in the cover down on an uneven surface with sharp edges. This can cause damage to
the D-cells.
Don’t transport your glider in a car without soft pads on the roof rack. This can cause damage to the D-
cells.
It is not recommended to leave your glider under the sun longer than it is necessary.
Don’t leave the glider resting on the control frame long when strong wind is blowing. This decreases
lifetime of the sail.
Don’t pack the glider if its sail is wet. If necessary, spread the sail and let it dry as soon as possible.
It is allowed to wash the sail with pure water only, without any soap or washing-powder.
When setting up and breaking down the glider, take care not to allow sand or dirt into the glider bag.

Keep the telescopic connections thoroughly clean, as their dirtying will make set up and break down
difficult or impossible.