Aerospace Speciality Products Not So Stubby User manual

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responsibility for personal or property injury resulting
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and accepts the uses Aerospace Speciality Products
products on these conditions. No warranty either
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Speciality Products products, except for replacement or
repair, at Aerospace Speciality Products option, of
those products proven to be defective in manufacture
within one month from date of original purchase. For
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Purchase will be required. Note: Your state may provide
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© 2017 Aerospace Speciality Products
Specifications:
Length: 12"/30.5 cm
Diameter: 1.637"/41.58 mm
Weight: 2.5 oz/70.9 gm
Parachute Recovery
Recommended Engines: A8-3; B6-4; C6-5
Skill Level: Beginner
Center of Pressure: 8.8" from tip of nose
This is a model rocket kit requiring construction.
Tools, adhesives, finishing materials, launch
equipment and engines are not supplied.
www.asp-rocketry.com
An easy-to-build model rocket kit! Great kit for
beginners and a fun sport model for the more
experienced modeler!
Estimated (calculated) altitudes:
with A8-3: 165 feet/50.3 meters
with B6-4: 405 feet/123.4 meters
with C6-5: 840 feet/256 meters

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Parts List - Be sure to check the following list to assure your kit is complete:
Parts List - Be sure to check the following list to assure your kit is complete:
2 Body Tubes (White), 1 Tube Coupler (Brown); 1 Engine Tube (Red), 1 Engine Block (Spiral-
Wound Paper), 1 Centering Ring (Spiral-Wound Paper), 2 Centering Rings (Laser-Cut Plywood), 1
Metal Engine Hook, 1 Set of Laser-Cut Balsa Fins, 1 Balsa Nose Cone, 1 Metal Screw Eye, 1
Kevlar® Shock Cord, 1 Elastic Shock Cord, 1 Launch Lug, 1 Parachute Kit, 1 Tube Marking Guide,
1 Decal Set, 1 Craft Stick.
Tools & Materials - You will need the following to complete your model:
Required: Adhesive (A wood glue, such as Elmer's Carpenters Glue or Titebond can be used for all
steps and is recommended); sandpaper (medium - 220 or 280 grit); pencil; scissors; hobby knife;
tape (cellophane or masking).
Optional: sandpaper (fine - 320 or 400 grit, extra fine - 500 or 600 grit); filler material (such as
Elmer’s Fill & Finish, Elmer’s Professional Carpenter’s Wood Filler or interior spackling paste);
sanding sealer (or balsa fillercoat); thinner (appropriate type for the sanding sealer); small paint
brush; paint (Spray paint, such as Rust-Oleum, Krylon, or Testors is recommended. Be sure not to
mix different types or brands of paint without testing.) - primer; colors as desired & clear; sanding
block; tack cloth.
Assembly Instructions - you can use the checkboxes to mark off each step as
they are completed.
⎕1) We’ll start by building the Engine Mount. Refer to Figures A through C as needed. Locate the
engine tube (the smaller red tube), the metal engine hook, the engine block (the smaller spiral-
wound paper block that fits inside the engine tube), the 2 plywood centering rings, the centering ring
(the larger spiral-wound paper block that fits outside the engine tube), and the Kevlar® shock cord
(which looks like a heavy piece of thread).
First test fit the wood centering rings over the engine tube - they should be a smooth, yet snug, fit. If
needed, use your sandpaper on the inside of the rings so that they fit easily. Set the rings aside for
now.
Slide First Centering
Ring Just Over Hook
Engine
Hook
1" Mark
From End
of Tube
Make Slit Here
Top
End
of Tube
Red Engine Tube
Apply Glue Around
OUTSIDE of Tube
Here
Apply Glue Around
OUTSIDE of Tube
Here
First Centering
Ring
Engine
Hook
Figure A Figure B
Take the engine tube, and with your hobby knife make a small horizontal slit about 1/8" wide and
1/4" from one end of the tube. Make a pencil mark 1" from the other end of the tube.
Slip one of the “hook” ends of the metal engine hook into the slit (you can hold the hook in place
with a small piece of tape if you need to) - be sure the hook is straight along and parallel to the tube.
Slip one of the plywood centering rings over the top end of the tube (the end closest to the slit) and

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down just over the hook. Apply a layer of glue to the outside of the engine tube just above the 1"
mark (see Figure A) and slide the centering ring down until it is in the proper location (see Figure B)
- be sure to check the alignment of the engine hook. Next apply a layer of glue around the outside
of the tube just below the top of the engine hook as shown in Figure B and and slide the second
plywood ring in place as shown in Figure C.
First Centering
Ring
Engine
Hook
Second Centering
Ring
Engine
Block
First Centering
Ring
Engine
Hook
Second Centering
Ring
Spiral-
Wound
Centering
Ring
Kevlar® Cord
Figure C Figure D
Apply a layer of glue inside the tube just above the end of the metal hook and slip the engine block
into place above the hook as shown in Figure C.
Take the Kevlar® shock cord and tie one end firmly around the spiral-wound centering ring. Apply a
layer of glue outside the tube above the second plywood ring and slip the spiral-wound ring over the
end of the tube into place as shown in Figure D. Set the engine mount aside and allow to dry.
⎕2) Locate the white elastic shock cord. Take the loose end of the Kevlar® and one end of the
elastic and hold the ends evenly. Tie a simple overhand knot about 1/2" to 1" from the ends and
tighten down the knot firmly so the two pieces of material are held tightly together. If needed, trim
the loose ends to about 1/4" to 1/2" long. See these steps shown left to right in Figure E.
Tube Coupler Body TubeBody Tube
Figure E Figure F
⎕3) Locate the 2 white body tubes and the tube coupler (the 3" long brown tube that fits inside the
body tubes). Make a pencil mark half-way along the coupler (1 1/2" from one end). Apply a layer of
glue around the inside of one the body tubes (you only need to apply the glue about 1" up inside the
tube) and then slip the coupler into the tube to the half-way mark. Apply glue to the inside of the
remaining body tube and insert the other end of the coupler until the tubes meet - see Figure F. Be
sure the tubes are straight and evenly aligned and allow to dry.
After the glue is dry, very lightly sand the outside the of the tube with medium or fine sandpaper
until the surface just loses its’ shine. This will allow the glue to penetrate the paper of the tube and
the fins to stick to the tube better. Locate the Tube Marking Guide and cut it out. Wrap the guide
around the body tube - line up the marks on each end to align the guide (see Figure G). Use a

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piece of tape to hold the guide in place. With a sharp pencil mark the body tube at the arrows at the
end of each line for the fins and the launch lug. Remove the guide from the tube. Using a drawer
edge, door frame or a small length of metal angle, extend each mark the full length of the tube (see
Figures H and I). On each of the 4 fin lines, make a mark 1/8" from one end of the body tube (this will
be the bottom end of the tube) and also make a mark on the launch lug line 2" from the same end of
the tube.
Make marks at !
ends of arrows!
on guide
Align marks at !
ends of guide
Body!
Tube
Figure G Figure H Figure I
⎕4) When the engine mount has completely dried, it is time to glue it into the body tube. First take
the loose end of the shock cord and thread it through the top end of the engine mount tube so that it
hangs out the back of the tube (the end where the hook extends from) - this will help to prevent from
getting glue on the shock cord while you are gluing the engine mount in. Test fit the engine mount
assembly into the body tube. If needed, sand the outside of centering rings for a smooth, but snug, fit
- you should be able to slide the engine mount into the tube in one smooth motion. Remove the
engine mount from the body tube.
With your craft stick spread an even layer of glue on the inside of the body tube where the engine
mount will fit. In one smooth motion, insert the engine mount into the bottom of the body tube (Be
sure to insert the end with the engine block first!). The bottom of the engine tube should be even with
the bottom of the body tube - the hook will be extending out from the end of the tube. See Figure J.
Allow to dry completely. After the mount is dry, thread the shock cord back through the engine mount
so that it is inside the main body tube.
Engine Mount Body Tube
Shock Cord
Root
Edge
Leading
Edge
Trailing Edge
Tip
Edge
Leading Edges
Trailing Edges
End!
Views!
of Fins
Figure J Figure K Figure L
⎕5) Locate the set of fins. Carefully remove the fins from the laser cut sheets of wood. You may
need to separate them from the surrounding wood with your hobby knife.
It is not required, but if desired you may round or airfoil the leading and trailing edges of the fins. This
will make the fins more aerodynamic and allow you rocket to fly higher than it would if you just left the

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fin edges square (the airfoiled, or “teardrop” shaped fin is more aerodynamic than a fin that is just
rounded). In either case, be sure to keep the root edge (the edge that will be glued to the body tube)
square. The tip edge may be kept square or rounded. See Figures K and L (the left example in Figure
L is a rounded fin, the right example is an airfoiled fin). Using medium grit sandpaper, shape each fin
as desired (a sanding block is may be used for this). If you don't have a sanding block, lay the
sandpaper down on a flat surface and move the edges of the fin against the sandpaper. Be careful
not to remove too much wood at one time - roughly shape one side then turn the fin over and do the
same on the other side. Continue this procedure with medium and then fine sandpaper to further
shape and smooth the fins until you are satisfied with their appearance. Repeat with extra fine
sandpaper if desired.
Body
Tube
1/8"
Mark
Fin
Correct
Alignment
Incorrect
Alignment
Figure M Figure N
⎕6) You will now attach the fins to the body tube. One fin at a time, apply a thin layer of glue to the
root edge of each fin and to the body tube along the line where the fin will be attached and allow the
glue to dry.Next apply another thin layer of glue to the root edge of the fin and firmly press in place on
the body tube. Note that the bottom of the root edge of each fin should be even with the 1/8" mark
you made on the body tube (see Figure M). As the glue sets, be sure that the fin is straight out from
and parallel to the tube. Looking from the base of the model you can use the lines drawn down the
body tube as a guide to be sure the fins are straight. Allow the model to rest horizontally while the
glue dries on each fin (you can download the “Rocket Caddy” from our website to make a stand that
will hold your model horizontally). Repeat for the remaining fins. See Figure N for what correctly
aligned fins should look like and an example of incorrectly aligned fins.
After the fins are completely dry, apply a small amount of glue to the joint between the root edge of
the fin and the body tube. Smooth the glue with your finger to form a small, smooth fillet and remove
any excess glue (see Figure O). Allow the model to rest horizontally while the glue dries on each set
of fins. The fillets will strengthen the fin attachment.
Fin
Fillet
Body!
Tube
2" Mark on Body Tube
Launch Lug
Screw Eye
Nose Cone
Dowel
Figure O Figure P Figure Q

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⎕7) Locate the launch lug (the very small white tube). Using the same method as you used to attach
the fins, glue the lug to the body along the launch lug line you drew earlier. The bottom edge of the
lug should be at the 2" mark you made on the line (see Figure P). Be sure the lug is parallel to the
body. After the glue is dry, apply fillets to the lug.
⎕8) Locate the balsa nose cone, the nose cone dowel (that fits inside the hole in the bottom of the
nose cone) and the metal screw eye. Test fit the shoulder of the nose cone into the top end of the
body tube - sand the shoulder if needed for a smooth fit.
Take the screw eye and put a small amount of glue on the tip. Thread it into the hole bored in one end
of the dowel (see Figure Q). Squirt some glue into the hole in the bottom of the nose cone and then
insert the dowel and allow to dry.
⎕9) Refer to Figures R through V as needed for this step. Locate the bag containing the parachute
material, the round self-adhesive reinforcements, the four pieces of shroud line and the snap swivel.
Tape Disc
Parachute!
Corner
Make Hole Here
Shroud Line
Knot
Figure R Figure S Figure T
Apply one of the self - adhesive discs to each corner of the parachute as shown in Figure R. Press
each firmly in place. Next cut a hole (or an "X") in the center of each disc with your hobby knife (see
Figure S). Press down again on the self - adhesive discs to make sure they are well attached. Tie the
end of one of the shroud lines through the hole in one of the discs as shown in Figure T. Do not
tighten the knot all the way down as this will weaken the parachute material. Tie the other end of the
shroud line through the hole on the adjacent side of the canopy. Repeat for the remaining lines. It
should now look like Figure U. With one hand, pick up the parachute by the top center of the canopy.
With your other hand, gather together the shroud lines. Pull down on the lines so that the points of
the canopy are all even (see Figure V). Tie a knot about two inches from the bottom of the lines.
Thread the ends of the lines through the eyelet of the snap swivel (moisten the lines if needed) and
tie firmly. Apply a small amount of wood glue to the knot and allow to dry. Attach the parachute to the
rocket by attaching the snap swivel to the screw eye at the bottom of the nose cone.
!!!
!"#$%&'"(')*$"+,
-#.'/$"%'0.1.
Figure U Figure V
Pack the parachute according to the following directions (or use any method that you feel comfortable
with). Hold the parachute by the top of the canopy and the ends of the shroud lines until the canopy of
the parachute is formed into a spike. Fold the canopy in half vertically then roll into a cylinder small
enough to fit easily into the body. Wrap the shroud lines around the parachute. Insert the shock cord,
then the parachute down into the body tube then insert the nose cone into the end of the body tube.

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Finishing and Decorating
The model may be decorated and/or painted in many ways, depending on how you want it to look and
how much time you wish to put into it. The following instructions refer to a full finishing of the model
including filling the wood grain. Be sure to do all balsa filling, painting, etc. in a well ventilated area.
Alternately you may simply decorate the model with any colors of felt tip markers, decals/stickers, etc.
If you decide not to fully finish the model as described below, skip to the Flight Preparation and
Launching section.
⎕9) Prior to beginning this step, be sure to read any instructions on the brand of sanding sealer you
are using - follow the manufacturers directions if they vary from those below. Be sure to use the
thinner recommended by the manufacturer to clean your brush. Using fine sandpaper (then extra fine,
if desired) go over all the wood parts to ensure they are smooth. If there are any dents or “dings” in
any of the wood parts, apply one of the recommended filler materials to the area and allow to dry.
Sand the area until smooth and repeat if necessary. Wrap a single layer of scotch tape (or masking
tape) around the shoulder of the nose cone (the part that goes into the body tube) - this will prevent
building up the thickness of the shoulder while painting. Insert the nose cone shoulder into the top of
the body tube. Next apply a coat of sanding sealer to all wood parts (the nose cone and fins)- it is not
necessary to seal the nose cone shoulder. Allow the sealer to dry then apply a second coat. After the
second coat is dry, sand with medium or fine sandpaper until the surfaces are smooth. Continue with
single coats of sealer, sanding in between each coat, until the wood grain is completely filled and the
surface is smooth.
⎕10) You will need to use something such as a dowel or a section of newspaper rolled into a tight
cone inserted into the base of your model to hold it while painting. If desired, lightly go over the model
with a tack cloth to remove any excess dust or other particles which could mar the finish. It is a good
idea to do this before applying each coat of primer and paint. Be sure to read the instructions on the
brand of paint you are using - follow the manufacturers directions carefully. Be sure not to mix
different types or brands of paint without testing. It is recommended (but not absolutely necessary)
that you apply one or more coats of primer before the color coats of paint - this will give a much
smoother surface to your model and allow the paint to adhere better. If using primer, sand with fine
and/or extra fine sandpaper after each coat is completely dry. Use as many coats as needed to get a
smooth finish before proceeding to the color coats.
⎕11) First give a base coat of the lightest color you will be using on the model - several light coats
are preferable to one or two heavy coats (this will be true for all the colors you will be using). Apply as
many coats as needed to get a nice even color. Allow to dry thoroughly.
⎕12) If applying other colors, use masking tape to cover up the areas of the model you do not wish to
paint with the second color. Apply the second color as you did the first and allow to dry. Continue this
process if other colors are desired. After the paint has dried carefully remove the masking.
⎕13) At this time you may apply any decals, stickers, trim tape, etc. if desired. The enclosed water-
slide decals can be applied as follows: Cut out the decals, leaving as little clear area around them as
possible. One at a time, soak in a shallow bowl of room temperature water until the decal loosens
from the backing (30 to 45 seconds or so) and apply to the model. If necessary, dab away any excess
water with a paper towel. Allow the decals to dry completely. To protect the paint and other

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decorations, apply one or more coats of clear paint (such as Krylon Crystal Clear or similar) and allow
to dry.
Flight Preparation & Launching
Remove the nose cone and parachute from the body tube and loosely insert some flame - proof
recovery wadding (such as that made by Estes or Quest) into the top of the body tube. Use enough
wadding to fill the tube to a depth of at least one and a half body diameters.
Pack the parachute as you did in Step 8, insert the shock cord, then the packed parachute down into
the body tube. Slide the nose cone into the body tube. Be sure to check the fit of the nose - if too
tight, sand the shoulder down - if too loose, wrap with tape. The nose cone should be loose enough to
slip out easily, but tight enough so that you can turn the model upside down without it falling out.
Select an engine from the list of recommended engines. Slip the engine into the engine mount tube
until the engine hook slides down over the end of the engine to hold it into place. Insert the igniter
according to the manufacturers directions.
Place the rocket on the launcher by sliding the launch lug over the launch rod. Attach the micro - clips
to the igniter. Move back to a safe distance and be sure the launch area is clear. Check for low - flying
aircraft, give the countdown and launch!
To fly your model again, pull back the metal hook and remove the used engine (be careful if you just
flew it, it may be hot!). You may need to use a pair of pliers to grasp the exposed end of the engine to
help pull it out. Then repeat the instructions above for your next flight!
Be sure to read & follow the NAR Safety Code before flying
this or any other model rocket!
(Note: the NAR Safety Code is normally included with each package of Model Rocket Engines and
can also be found on the National Association of Rocketry web site at www.nar.org)
KEVLAR® is a registered trademark of E.I. du Pont de Nemours and Company