AeroWorks EXTRA 330L User manual

AEROWORKS
33% EXTRA 330L
ASSEMBLY MANUAL

Congratulations! You have just become the owner of one of the highest quality ARF’s in both
material and workmanship in the industry. Aeroworks uses only hand select balsa wood and the
highest quality of light ply and hardwood available. All fiberglass parts are hand crafted and
inspected for imperfections. We have designed the Extra 330L to be lightweight, yet strong
enough to handle the aerobatic forces expected from a high performance airplane.
Thank you for purchasing the Extra 330L ARF. We wish you great success in both the assembly
and flying of your fully aerobatic airplane. If you have any questions or comments feel free to
call.
Aeroworks [phone]
[phone] Fax
Or write to: Aeroworks
401 Laredo Unit “D”
Aurora, Co. 80011
www.aero-works.net
Before starting the assembly process of your new 330L Extra ARF, Please read through the
assembly manual carefully, and inspect all parts and any hardware for imperfections or damage.
It is important to notify Aeroworks of any damage or problems with the model immediately. If
you wish to return this aircraft for any reason a 15% restock fee will be charged to the customer.
In addition the customer is responsible for all return shipping cost.
Aeroworks cannot insure the skill of the modeler in the construction or use of this aircraft.
Therefore, will not be accountable for any property damage, bodily injury or death caused by this
aircraft.
The purchaser also accepts all responsibility of any and all structural or
mechanical failures.
1

EQUIPMENT REQUIREMENTS
AILERONS: Servo’s: 70 Ounce minimum, two per wing, Digital and metal geared servos are
not required, however are recommended.
ELEVATORS: Servo’s: 100 Ounce minimum one per stab. Digital and metal geared servos
are not required. However are recommended. Especially if you plan on doing 3-D style
maneuvers.
RUDDER: Servo’s: 150 ounce minimum, two servos in tandem on a pull – pull system.
Digital and metal geared servos are not required, however are recommended. If using a 7 pound
or heavier motor you may put the servos in the tail section of the plane.
THROTTLE: A high torque servo is not necessary, 48 ounce minimum. However, a reliable
and fast servo is recommended.
RECEIVER BATTERIES: We recommend you use two batteries. A primary 1700 MA pack
and a back up 1100 MA pack. You will plug the primary into the battery port of the receiver and
the secondary into any available port. It is important to use two switches one per battery. There
are after market battery backer systems that can also be used. It is up to the builder too chose
which system they want to use. But we do encourage using two batteries.
SWITCHES AND WIRING: It is important to use heavy gage wire ( 22 gauge ) for all
switches, batteries, and extensions.
FUEL TANK AND LINE: Use a 32 oz. fuel tank with large diameter size fuel line. Gas will
cause fuel lines to swell and come off brass fuel tubing. Be certain to always tie down your fuel
lines with clips or wire. It is also recommended to solder a barb onto the brass tubing for extra
security.
HARDWARE: It is recommended that you use the optional hardware package offered through
Aeroworks. If you do not use the Aeroworks package, we recommend that you use high quality
hardware designed for the larger planes.
RECEIVER: The use of a PCM receiver is recommended.
2

STEP A
TIGHTENING AND RE-SHRINKING THE COVERING
Open your kit slowly and take care not to damage any parts of the kit. Remove all parts from their
plastic protective covers for inspection.
Before doing any assembly or installation of any decals it is very important to re-shrink or re-
tighten the already applied Ultracote covering. Due to the shipping process, heat and humidity
changes from different climates, the covering may become lose and wrinkle in the sun. If you
take the time to re-tighten the covering, you will be rewarded with a long lasting beautifully
covered model.
Using your covering iron with a soft sock, gently apply pressure and rub in the covering. If any
bubbles occur, your iron may be to hot, reduce heat and work slowly. If bubbles persist, using a
small pin, punch holes in the bubble to relieve trapped air and reheat. We do not recommend
using a heat gun on any of the foam surfaces. Too much heat on one area may cause the foam to
melt underneath the wood.
After you have tightened up the covering, it is time to start the assembly of your Extra.
STEP B
FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY
With sharp xacto knife cut covering away from wing and stab tube holes. Cut covering away
from stab and wing anti-rotation holes. Cut covering away from aileron servo wire access slot in
fuse. There are rudder servo cut outs in both the radio compartment and the rear of the fuselage.
We recommend placing your rudder servos in the radio compartment using a pull-pull system.
Most engines on the market are to light to utilize the rudder servos in the tail of the aircraft. If
your engine weighs less then 7 pounds you must use the pull-pull system.
3

STEP C
WING ASSEMBLY
1) Locate the pre cut hinge slots in the wing and aileron. The model comes with CA style
hinges pre installed, but not glued into the control surfaces. If you wish to use the CA hinges
we recommend adding additional hinges to each surface and use thin foam safe CA when
gluing in hinges. We have used the CA type hinges with no problems. However, we highly
encourage the builder to use the nylon pinned style hinge, such as the Klett ¼ scale hinge you
will have to enlarge the hinge slot to accommodate the nylon hinge. Check surfaces for
alignment and glue hinges into the control surfaces. We recommend using slow set epoxy or
hinge glue. Be certain to give yourself plenty of aileron throw. Recommended throw is 35
degrees minimum up and down. We also recommend using Ultracote to seal all control
surfaces.
2) Locate servo locations on bottom side of wings and remove covering. (Two per aileron)
Attach servo extension leads to your servos, it will be necessary to “Y” the two servos
together and run one wing panel into the aileron port of your receiver and the other panel into
an auxiliary port of your receiver, designated by the manufacturer of your radio. Tie the pre-
installed nylon string to your servos and pull the servo wire through the wing. Install servos
into wings. It is important to secure the servo connectors with tape, wire or after market clip
to be certain the leads do not disconnect.
3) Locate hardwood blocks pre installed in the ailerons. Drill and tap the control horn locations
for an 8/32 bolt. Install the control horns so your linkage will be 90 degrees to the servo arm.
We recommend using the Rocket city control horn assembly #ROC 01A.
8-32
TAP
90
DEGREE
TO
SERVO
ARM
CONTROL
HORN
4

4) When setting up the servo linkage, we recommend using 4-40 rod with a silver solder clevis.
It is very important to have all control linkages 90 degrees to the control surface and servo
arm. If more throw is required then the silver solder clevis will enable, then we recommend
using a du-bro swivel ball link at the servo arm for more movement.
SILVER SOLDER
CLEVIS
SERVO ARM AND CONTROL HORN AT 90 DEGREE
5) It is best to have the linkage as far in on the servo arm as possible and as far away from the
control surface as possible. If you are setting up the plane for 3D style flying. We
recommend using larger after market servo arms. It is important not to be closer then 1” from
the control surface with your control horn. If you get to close to the control surface you may
develop flutter. Special note: Remember to center all servos prior to connecting linkages to
servo. This will eliminate any binding when the radio is turned on.
6) Locate the hardwood dowel for the wing retainer bolt, located on the bottom of each wing.
Pre drill a 1/8” hole into the center of the dowel for the wing retainer bolt.
7) Slide aluminum tube through fuse and center in the fuse. Secure tube in fuse so tube cannot
move. A hose clamp works well for this. Slide both wing panels onto tube and push tight
against the fuse.
8) Drill and tap dowel and aluminum tube for 6-32 bolt.
Epoxy
hardwood in
wing tube
drill and tap
for 6-32 bolt
Wing
retainer
dowel
location
9) Leaving the aluminum tube in one wing panel, with wing retainer bolt secured, at all times,
will enable you to always find the tapped hole for the bolt. Remove one wing panel and
centered on the location of the retainer bolt, epoxy hardwood into the end of the aluminum
tube. Drill and tap hardwood for 6-32 bolt. Repeat for other wing, remembering to keep tube
in one wing at all times. It will be necessary to round the top of the wooden block to fit inside
contour of aluminum tube.
5

STEP D
STAB AND ELEVATOR ASSEMBLY
1) Locate the pre cut hinge slots in the stab and elevator. The model comes with CA style
hinges pre installed, but not glued into the control surfaces. If you wish to use the CA hinges
we recommend adding hinges to each surface and sue thin foam safe CA when gluing in
hinges. We have used the CA type hinges with no problems, however we highly encourage
the builder to use the nylon pinned style hinge, such as the Klett ¼ scale. Check surfaces for
alignment and glue hinges into the control surfaces. We recommend using slow set epoxy or
hinge glue. Be certain to give yourself plenty of elevator throw. Recommended throw is 45
degrees minimum up and down. We recommend sealing all surfaces with Ultracote.
2) Locate servo location on bottom side of stabs and cut away covering. (One per stab) Using
the pre installed nylon servo wire attachment string, pull servo leads through stab. You want
to have the male end of the servo extension hanging out the stab and the female end hanging
out from the fuse. This will enable you to remove the stabs easily when necessary. It works
best to run one elevator servo extension into the elevator port of the receiver and the other
into an Aux port of the receiver designated by your radio manufacture. If you do not have a
radio capable of splitting the elevators into two different channels, it is possible to reverse
one servo and use the same port or channel in the receiver. There are after market servo
reverses that work well. Install servo into stabs. It is important to secure the servo
connectors with tape, wire or after market clip to be certain the leads do not disconnect.
3) Locate hardwood blocks pre installed in the elevators. Drill and tap block for control horn
locations for a 8/32 bolt. Install the control horns so your linkage will be 90 degrees to the
servo arm. We recommend using the Rocket city control horn assembly #ROC 01A.
Seal all hinge gaps
with Ultracote
covering
Rudder shown
CAP WITH
COVERING
CONTROL HORN
TOP VIEW
4) When setting up the servo linkage we recommend using 4-40 rod with a silver solder clevis.
It is very important to have all control linkages 90 degrees to the control surface and servo
arm. If more throw is required then the silver solder clevis will enable, then we recommend
using a du-bro swivel ball link at the servo arm for more movement.
6

5) It is best to have the linkage as far in on the servo arm as possible and as far away from the
control surface as possible. If you are setting up the plane for 3D style flying. We
recommend using larger after market servo arms. It is important not to be closer then 1” from
the control surface with your control horn. If you get to close to the control surface you may
develop flutter. Special note: Remember to center all servos prior to connecting linkages to
servo. This will eliminate any binding when the radio is turned on.
6) Locate the hardwood dowel for the 4-40 stab retainer bolt, located on the bottom side of each
stab. Pre drill a 1/8” hole into the center of the dowel for the stab retainer bolt.
7) Slide aluminum tube through fuse and center tube in fuse. Secure one end of tube in fuse so
tube cannot move. Slide one stab panel onto tube and push tight against fuse.
STAB RETAINER
DOWEL
MEASURE
EQUAL
DISTANCE
TAP FOR
4-40
BOLT
8) Drill and tap dowel and aluminum tube for 4-40 bolt. Secure stab to tube with 4-40 bolt, then
slide other stab onto tube and repeat retainer bolt installation. Be certain both stabs are tight
against fuse.
9) Leaving the aluminum tube in one stab panel, with wing retainer bolt secured, at all times
will enable you to always find the tapped hole for the bolt. Remove one stab panel and at the
location of the retainer bolt, epoxy hardwood into the end of the aluminum tube. Drill and
tap hardwood for 4-40 bolt. Repeat for other stab, remembering to keep tube in one stab at
all times.
STEP E
ENGINE BOX ASSEMBLY
1) Cut 1/8” ply engine box sides to correct length to accommodate your engine size. Be sure to
leave room for soft mounts if used. Soft mounting is not required. An easy way to
determine the correct length of box sides is to slide the cowl over Former F1 approximately
1”. Measure from front of former F1 to front of the cowl. Now measure the length of your
engine. Subtract the engine length from your first measurement. This should be the required
length for your engine box sides. It is always a good idea to cut the engine box sides slightly
shorter then needed, approximately ½”. This will allow you to make adjustments by adding
spacers between firewall and engine. Adding a spacer will also allow for the rear cylinder to
be spaced away from the firewall to allow for better cooling. *Be certain to check sides,
one is longer then the other, this is to put in the right amount of right thrust. Also
firewall has been beveled.
7

Engine box parts
Measure From F1 to end of cowl to get correct box length
2) Slide engine box sides through former F1, slide notch of engine box sides into former F2.
Square sides to former F1. Using epoxy, glue sides to F1 and F2.
F1 F2 Glue box sides to
Formers F1 an F2 Tri stock for extra reinforcement
3) Epoxy 3/8” ply firewall to the inside of the engine box sides and flush with the bottom of
sides.
4) Cute 1/8” lite ply engine box floor to correct length. The floor should rest on bottom of sides
and firewall and butt up next to former F1.
5) Epoxy engine box floor to the bottom of sides, firewall, and front of former F1. Be certain to
square all parts to former F1.
6) Use 3/8” balsa tri-stock reinforcement at all glue joints. Behind firewall reinforce glue joint
with 3/8” spruce tri stock.
7) Install ¼” lite-ply box top to the engine box assembly. Box top should fit to the rear of the
firewall and up next to Former F1. Glue to the top of the box sides. Sand flush with box
sides. NOTE: It is best to do this step after your engine has been mounted and all other
necessary installations including ignition, fuel tank etc.
Install box top
8

STEP F
LANDING GEAR
1) Drill or tap axle hole in gear to fit your axle. We recommend 3/16” dia. Axle.
2) Install axles using thread lock or lock nut.
3) Draw a centerline, front to back, down both aluminum landing gear and ply mounting plate.
4) Align center marks.
5) With gear centered on center line and front to back on mounting plate, drill four equally
spaced holes through gear and mounting plate, two front and two back, to accommodate
10-32 bolts.
Use 10/32 bolts and blind nuts to attach gear to block. Special note: Use thread lock on all
gear bolts.
STEP G
FUEL TANK FLOOR
1) Locate the wood pack with the necessary wood parts for the fuel tank floor.
1 5” x 7 ½” Lite-ply tank floor
1 ¼” x 5/8” x 5” Balsa
4 3/8” x 5” Balsa tri stock
2) Glue ¼” x 5/8” x 5” balsa to top of gear former.
3) Glue 3/8” balsa tri-stock to both sides of former F2
9

4) Glue 1/8” lite ply tank floor to top of balsa strips.
Glue ¼” balsa to top of
gear former Glue 3/8” balsa tri-stock
to both sides of former
F2
Glue tank floor to
top of balsa and next
to wing tube phenolic
You may drill
optional
lighting holes
in tank floor
Tape foam to bottom of fuel tank and nylon
tie tank to tank floor
STEP H
FIN AND RUDDER ASSEMBLY
1) Locate the hardwood block pre installed in the rudder for the control horn. Drill and tap for
8-32 all thread. Install all thread into rudder and secure with flat washer and nut on each side.
You should have approximately 1” of bolt on each side of the rudder for the mounting of the
control horns. Use thread lock to secure.
10

2) Trail fit fin to fuse. Remove fin. Apply epoxy to all surfaces to be glued. Slide fin into the
fuse. Use tape to hold in place while assembly dries. (NOTE) Remove covering from all
glue areas and make sure the fin is glued to the rear of the fuse.
3) Locate pre cut hinge locations and glue hinges into fin and rudder. We recommend epoxy or
hinge glue. We recommend sealing all control surfaces with Ultracote.
STEP I
CANOPY/HATCH INSTALLATION
1) Using scribe lines as reference, cut out canopy.
2) Trial fit canopy to hatch cover. Do all painting/prep work, dash panels and pilot installation
prior to gluing canopy. (NOTE) We recommend you remove the covering from the cockpit
floor location. We use an automotive trunk spatter spray paint (Grey or White) and paint the
floor location to complete a finished look.
3) Glue canopy to hatch cover. We use 3M stripping tape to finish out the canopy.
STEP J
COWL INSTALLATION
It is first recommended to install engine per manufactures recommendations.
Engine thrust line is 1 3/4” down from top of fuse box sides. 2 to 3 degrees of right thrust and 0
degrees of down thrust. It will be necessary to offset the engine to the left (pilot view) 3/8” to
compensate for right thrust. This will allow the center of the engine to exit at the center of the
cowl.
1) Fit cowl to fuse, cutting out where needed to accommodate engine.
2) When fitting cowl to fuse. Use a 4” spinner to ensure proper alignment with spinner plate of
cowl.
11

3) When satisfied with fit drill two 1/8” holes on each side of cowl and through fuse sides.
Approximately ¼” from rear of cowl.
4) Use 4-40 bolts and blind nuts to attach cowl to fuse.
NOTE: We recommend using metal/rubber washer to secure bolt.
5) Due to shipping and packaging, you may have a fine haze on the beautifully painted cowl. If
you do, using a fine rubbing or polishing compound will eliminate the haze effortlessly. You
can find this product at any automotive store.
STEP K
INSTALLING WHEEL PANTS
1) Make a notch in the wheel pant and lite-ply mounting plate with a Dremel drum sander.
Make the notch deep enough to let the wheel pant slide over the axle to the desired height.
2) Align the wheel pant to the gear and with 1/8” drill bit, drill two equally spaced holes through
gear and wheel pant. Mount wheel pants to gear with 4/40 bolts and blind nuts.
STEP L
CONTROL SURFACCE THROW
1) Elevator High rate 20 degrees up and down
Low rate 12 degrees up and down
3-D rate 40 degrees up and down
2) Rudder High rate 60% deflection
Low rate 30% deflection
3-D rate Full deflection
12

3) Aileron High rate 24 degrees up 24 degrees down
Low rate 18 degrees up 18 degrees down
3-D rate 35 degrees up 35 degrees down
The throws given are to be considered only a starting pint. Adjust the throws to accommodate
your style of flying.
STEP M
BALANCING (CG) 1/2" to 3/4" IN FRONT OF WING TUBE
1) Balance the 330L with fuel tank empty otherwise ready to fly.
STEP N
FLYING
We believe the Extra 330L will be one of the finest flying airplanes you will ever fly. The 330L has no bad
habits and very slow speed stall characteristics.
Inverted flight is nearly hands off and knife edge flight takes little or no mixing to remain straight and true.
Remember the Extra is a large aircraft and picks up speed quickly when coming out of split S type
maneuvers or when needing straight downward. (Always throttle back).
If you have followed the assembly manual instructions and have balance your Extra properly, you will be
rewarded with a highly aerobatic, stable and predictable flying airplane.
13

PHOTO SHEET
Mount ignition in engine box. Protect with
foam and screw or nylon tie down. Always protect wires Secure battery with
hooks and rubber
bands
Nylon tie fuel tank down. Receiver is located behind wing tube.
Ohio superstar Haige
style tail wheel
Rudder servos location
14

HARDWARE PACKAGE
PACKING LIST
33% Edge 540 T, Extra 330 L
8 4/40 x ¾ bolts DU 572
12 4/40 blind nuts DU 135
14 #4 flat washers DU 323
4 10/32 x ¾ bolts DU 580
4 #10 flat washers DU 586
4 10/32 blind nuts DU 584
4 4/40 x ½ bolts DU 571
2 4/40 x 1 ¼ bolts CA 0420
2 3/16 axles DU 249
4 3/16 collars DU 141
2 4” kavan wheels 0166
1 Ohio large haigh Tailwheel
9 4/40 threaded rods DU 144
9 4/40 kwick links solder DU 305
8 Nelson control horns RK 01A
2 Packages hinges DU 257
2 6/32 x 1 ½ bolts DU 317
2 6/32 blind nuts DU 136
2 8/32 nuts DU 563
2 #8 flat washers DU 327
1 Threaded kwick link DU 601
1 Strip aileron horn set DU 103
1 4/40 pull pull DU 518
15