Alternate Energy Technologies OPEN LOOP Instruction manual

INSTALLATION
OPERATION
MAINTENANCE
MANUAL
OPEN LOOP/
OPEN LOOP PV
Alternate Energy Technologies, LLC
PO Box 61326
Jacksonville, FL 32236
904-781-8305

Open Loop 1
CONTENTS
Introduction
Basic Tools and Materials
1. Collector Location
2. Collector Orientation
3. Collector Dimensions
4. Mounting Hardware
5. Mounting Hardware Spacing
6. Pitch Pan
7. Array Mounting
8. Collector Piping
9. Collector Piping Detail
10. Sensor Mounting at Collector
11. Piping Through Roof
12. Storage Tank Placement
13. Sensor Mounting at Storage Tank
14. Open Loop Fluid Handling System
15. Open Loop Differential Temperature Controller
16. Open Loop Start-Up
17. Open Loop Maintenance
18. Direct PV System
19. Operational Checklist
Systems Parts List
Collector Yard Mount
1
1
2
2
3
4
7
7
8
9
9
10
10
10
11
11
12
13
13
14
15
16
16
INTRODUCTION
We at AET would like to extend our
congratulations on your purchase of an Eagle Sun
System. Years of research and development
backed by critical engineering have brought you
the finest solar products you can buy. Please take
time to read this booklet thoroughly. Each step is
outlined completely and clarified by diagrams
where necessary. All questions which arise
BASIC TOOLS AND MATERIALS
Electric Drill
Drill Index (w/ ½” and ¾” Wood Bits)
Hack Saw
Tubing Cutter
Tin Snips
16’ Tape Measure
24” Level
Flashlight
Extension Cord
Slip Joint Pliers
Needle Nose Pliers
Pipe Wretches, 10” & 14”
Open End Wrenches, 9/16 & 7/16
Screw Driver 6” Flat Blade
Screw Driver 6” Philips
Wire Stripper or Knife
Wire Cutters
from this material should be answered before you attempt
installation of the system. With a little thought and careful
planning, your Eagle Sun System can be installed quickly and
easily by yourself or by a qualified plumber with a minimum
of disruption to your business or home.
“Conservation for today… Energy for tomorrow.”
Adjustable Wrenches 8”& 10
Torch and Striker
100 PSI Pressure Gage
Putty Knife
High Temperature Pipe Joint Compound
Wire Nuts or Connectors
Miscellaneous Copper Pipe & Fittings (3/4”)
Solder Flux
Emory Paper
Silicon Caulk and Roof Tar
½” I.D. Copper Tubing & Installation
Angle Iron
Threaded Rod, Nuts, & Washers
Stainless Screw Clamps
Thermal Adhesive
Aluminum Flashing Sheet

Open Loop 2
1. COLLECTOR LOCATION
Proper location and orientation of the solar
collectors is important for maximum system
efficiency. The collectors should be unshaded for
the middle six hours of the day in each month of the
year and should be located as close to the storage
tank as possible to minimize heat loss in the piping
runs. The best orientation is achieved
when the collectors are facing due south and tilted
at an angle from the horizontal of latitude + 100.
Figure 1 below shows many alternatives for
collector mounting. When roof mounting, placing
the collectors as close as possible to the peak of the
roof will make installation easier due to increased
attic access.
2. COLLECTOR ORIENTATION
Proper tilt angle for solar collectors is latitude plus
100(see latitude map). This favors the winter sun
because ambient temperatures are lower during the
winter and collector efficiency suffers. This 100
additional tilt equalizes year round performance.
Spacing can be determined from Table 1.
When collectors are mounted one behind the other,
they are spaced apart so that in the morning and
afternoon on December 21, when the sun is at its
lowest altitude, the collectors will not shade each
other and cause efficiency loss.

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LATITUDE 250N 300N 350N 400N 450N 500N
COLLECTOR TILT 350400450500550600
A B A B A B A B A B A B
FLAT 29 96 33 113 37 145 41 145 44 145 48 145
501/12 25 83 29 93 33 113 37 132 41 133 44 141
902/12 22 74 26 82 30 77 34 110 38 115 41 118
1403/12 17 66 22 72 26 82 30 92 34 95 38 98
1804/12 14 61 18 66 22 74 26 81 30 85 34 87
2305/12 10 58 14 60 18 66 22 72 26 74 30 77
2706/12 7 58 11 58 15 61 19 66 23 68 27 70
3007/12 4 58 8 58 13 58 17 58 21 58 25 58
3408/12 0 58 5 58 9 58 13 58 17 58 22 58
3709/12 -2 58 3 58 7 58 11 58 15 58 19 58
40010/12 -4 58 0 58 4 58 8 58 13 58 17 58
43011/12 -7 58 -3 58 -2 58 6 58 10 58 14 58
45012/12 -8 58 -4 58 0 58 4 58 8 58 13 58
ROOF
PITCH
VERTICAL -44 -41 -37 -33 -29 -25
Table 1. All Lengths in inches
3. COLLECTOR DIMENSIONS
Collector Gross Area (ft2) Dimensions (in) Transparent Area (ft2) Weight (lb)
AE-21 20.87 35
3/16 x 85 3/16 19.22 74
AE-24 23.81 35
3/16 x 97 3/16 21.99 84
AE-26 25.35 47
3/16 x 77 3/16 23.65 90
AE-28 27.97 47
3/16 x 85 3/16 26.16 99
AE-32 31.91 47
3/16 x 97 3/16 29.93 113
AE-40 39.79 47
3/16 x 121 3/16 37.47 153
Tested: TUV (DIN 4757, RAPPERSWILL, ONORM M7714, FSEC, SRCC, Metropolitan Dade County, Miami Test Lab
Table 2. Collector Dimensions for AE series

Open Loop 4
MOUNTING HARDWARE
Provided in the Eagle Sun package is specially
designed mounting hardware to speed collector
installation. This hardware consists of four LOCK-
TIGHT hinge sets, four roof brackets, two rear
struts, and bolts (Figures 3, 4,and 5).
(a) After locating the mounting points from Table
1, the mounting bracket holes should be drilled.
(b) A heavy coating of sealant should be applied to
the bottom of the flashing plate, which should
fit flat against the roof. It is necessary for the
plate to slide under the above shingles to insure
proper drainage of water.
(c) The bottom of the roof bracket and the area
around the threaded rod should also be
thoroughly coated with tar sealant. When the
bracket is set in place, alignment with the
collector hinges is necessary before final
tightening of the nuts. This should be
completed before the sealant has time to set.
(d) The threaded rod is fastened through a 2’ x 6”
wood or 2” x 2” x ¼” steel angle bracket under
the roof as shown.
(e) The rear struts should be cut and drilled to
conform to Table 1. All bolts should be
tightened securely. A stainless steel washer
should be placed where the threaded rod passes
through the aluminum bracket.
It is very important that the penetrations through the
roof be well sealed. It should be carefully checked
that all bolts are coated with tar and that no leaks
are possible.
There are three acceptable ways to secure the
collector mounting brackets to the roof.
1. Spanner Mounting
2. Lag Bolt Mounting
3. J-Bolt Mounting
In spanner mounting after the brackets are positions
on the chalk line, a 3/8” hole is drilled between the
rafters. Aluminum flashing is positioned over the
hole where the top of the flashing is extended up
under the shingle above the3/8” hole and extends
down over it. Caulk is applied between the flashing
and the roof. The bracket is then positioned over
the 3/8” hole using sealant between the bracket and
the flashing. A piece of 3/8” all-thread is then
inserted through the hole. A washer and nut secures
the all-thread to the bracket (be sure the seal
underneath the washer and on top of the nut). The
all-thread rod should extend about 4” below the roof
rafters. Drill a 3/8” hole in a 2 x 4 and insert the all-
thread rod through it. The 2 x 4 should span 2
rafters. With a washer and double bolt secure the
all-thread to the 2 x 4. Tighten down until the
bracket is tightly secured to the roof. Be careful not
to over-tighten and bell out the roof underneath the
bracket. (See Figure 6)

Open Loop 5
Figure 6. Spanner Mounting
In lag bolt mounting you must locate the center of
the rafters along the top and bottom chalk lines.
One method is to have one man on the roof and
another in the attic. Using a hammer the man on the
roof can tap the roof and determine where it is
denser sounding. The roof man can drill a pilot hole
while the attic man helps with distance corrections.
Then the attic man can call of the distance to the
next rafter while the roof man drills corresponding
pilot holes. Flashing the brackets is done as
previously described. Secure the brackets to the
roof using a ¼” x 3” stainless lag screw, a flat
washer, and a lock washer (Figure 7).
Figure 7. Lag Bolt Mounting

Open Loop 6
J-bolt mounting is done very similar to lag screw
mounting except instead of drilling into the center
of a rafter, a hole must be drilled directly beside a
rafter. The size of the hole must be slightly larger
than the bolt diameter. This is more easily
accomplished if the attic man would drill a pilot
hole through the roof along side the chosen rafter.
Fit the bolt through the mounting brackets and insert
the bolt (J side first) through the hole in the roof.
Work the J underneath the rafter. Pull the J-bolt
snug against the rafter before tightening the nut.
Use double nuts or lock-washers to securely fasten
the mounting bracket to the J-bolt (Figure 8).
Figure 8. J-Bolt Mounting

Open Loop 7
4. MOUNTING HARDWARE SPACING
AE-Series Center Line to Center Line (in.)
Model Size (ft) Outside Box Dim. (in.) AE-MH AE-FM AE-RM
AE-21 3 x 7 35.1875 x 85.1875 88.4375 88.9375 86.9375
AE-24 3 x 8 35.1875 x 97.1875 100.4375 100.9375 98.9375
AE-26 4 x 6.5 47.1875 x 77.1875 80.4375 80.9375 78.9375
AE-28 4 x 7 47.1875 x 85.1875 88.4375 88.9375 86.9375
AE-32 4 x 8 47.1875 x 97.1875 100.4375 100.9375 98.9375
AE-40 4 x 10 47.1875 x 121.1875 124.4375 124.9375 122.9375
MSC-Series Center Line to Center Line (in.)
Model Size (ft) Outside Box Dim. (in.) MSC-MH MSC-FRM MSC-FM
MSC-21 3 x 7 35.8750 x 86.1250 90.5 87.375 37.125
MSC-24 3 x 8 35.8750 x 98.1250 102.5 99.375 37.125
MSC-26 4 x 6.5 47.8750 x 78.1250 82.5 79.375 49.125
MSC-28 4 x 7 47.8750 x 86.1250 90.5 87.375 49.125
MSC-32 4 x 8 47.8750 x 98.1250 102.5 99.375 49.125
MSC-40 4 x 10 47.8750 x 122.1250 126.5 123.375 49.125
Table 3. Distance between centerlines of top and bottom mounts for all AE and MSC series
5. PITCH PAN
The pitch pan is necessary any time standing water
is encountered (Figure 9). The purpose is to provide
an adequate seal around any penetration in the roof.
(a) The pitch pan is placed in the proper position
and flat on the roof.
(b) Its flange is sealed with roofing felt and hot tar.
(c) The holes are sealed on the inside with roofing
tar to a sufficient level to insure a permanent
seal.
Figure 9

Open Loop 8
6. ARRAY MOUNTING ON TILE ROOFS
Tile roofs are a little more difficult to mount
solar collectors on but following this procedure will
render a leak free installation.
The solar panels are mounted on two rails
located at the top and bottom of the solar collectors.
The collectors are secured to the rails using the AE
rack mount hardware (AE-RM). The 1 5/8”
Aluminum unistrut rails are anchored to the roof by
usuing six or ten inch stainless stell 3/8” hanger
bolts. These bolts are lag screw on the bottom and
3/8 NPT thread on the top. A ten foot length of
unistrut should be anchored at three points, the
middle and both ends.
Procedure
a) Cut 12” x 12” square pieces of lead flashing.
b) Locate the roof rafters beneath the tile where
the hanger bolts will be attached. Drill a 3/8”
hole through the tile.
c) Slide the 12” x 12” lead flashing under the tile
located above the 3/8” hole, then drill through
the lead flashing into the hole.
d) Screw lag portion of the 3/8” hanger bolt into
the rafter.
e) Cut strips of the lead flashing about 1 ½” long
and wide enough that when you fold it into a
tube is slightly larger in diameter as the hanger
bolt.
f) Using an acid core solder, weld the seam of the
tube together.
g) Slip this tube over the top of the hanger bolt
protruding from the roof, then solder it to the
12” x 12” lead flashing.
h) Thread down a stainless 3/8” nut to the bottom
of the thread and seal the top of lead tube to the
nut with a polybutalene caulk. Slip a 3/8”
stainless washer on top o the nut.
i) Place the 1 5/8” aluminum unistrut rail on the
hanger bolt and secure with another 3/8”
stainless washer and net.
The rail is now secured, weather tight to the tile
roof. Next, mount the AET solar collector to the
rail using the AE rack mounts (AE-RM). See
Figure 10.
Figure 10

Open Loop 9
7. COLLECTOR PIPING
The piping of the system should be considered
before a final decision is made on how the
collectors are mounted. Piping should be made of
copper tube of the type meeting local codes,
insulated with Armaflex or similar, and painted or
wrapped with aluminum tape where exposed to
ultraviolet radiation.
Care should be taken in the spacing of collectors as
attachment of piping is easiest with properly
aligned collectors. The collectors and piping to the
storage tank should be slightly sloped downward
(3” in 8 feet) to allow draining in case of freezing
conditions. Soldered connections should be made
with 95/5 solder.
Figure 11 Figure 12
8. COLLECTOR PIPING DETAIL
The outlets of the collector are 1” copper pipe
nipples (Figure 13). They should be piped as shown
with provisions for an automatic air vent. This will
prevent air lock and subsequent loss of system
efficiency. The copper union makes attachment of
piping to collector easy. Teflon tape or high
temperature, high quality pipe sealant should be
used when making threaded connections.
The collector inlets should be piped similarly but
without the automatic air vent.
Figure 13

Open Loop 10
9. SENSOR MOUNTING AT COLLECTOR
The controller heat sensor is mounted to the nipple
outlet of the collector (Figures 14). A stainless steel
screw clamp should be used. The entire nipple
should be wrapped thoroughly with insulating tape
so that the sensor is isolated from the outside air.
Figure 14
10. PIPING THROUGH THE ROOF
Piping through the roof should be weatherproofed
as shown in Figure 15.
(a) One inch holes are drilled through the roof on
the same plane as the supply and return header
nipples. Do not drill the hole above the supply
header of the collector. This will prevent the
collector from draining. Placing the hole below
the supply header is acceptable, but it is more
aesthetic if it is located on the same plane
(b) A copper flashing is placed around the hole
with its base cemented to the roof and its upper
edges slid under the adjoining shingle.
(c) The copper tube supply and return line is then
pushed up through the hole in the flashing.
(d) A “coolie cap” is then slid over the copper tube
till it meets the flashing. After piping to the
collectors is completed, the “coolie cap” is
soldered to the copper tube.
(e) Polybutalyne adhesive is then placed on the top
and bottom of the flashing, providing a
weatherproof seal. The sensor wire should also
be run through the return flashing.
Figure 15
11. STORAGE TANK PLACEMENT
To minimize expense and heat loss, the tank should
be placed near the collectors and central to points of
greatest water demand. It should be located in as
warm a spot as possible. It should be located with
adequate ventilation, with a minimum of 6-8 inches
of clearance and with ready access to controls and
serviceable parts.
Provision should be made to prevent water damage
in case of leakage. A catch pan with a minimum of
¾” drain line at least 2” in height may be installed
and pitched for proper drainage. Electrical service
of 240V should be available for the element and
110V for the pump and controller.

Open Loop 11
12. SENSOR MOUNTING AT STORAGE TANK
On the American Appliance open loop tanks the
heat sensor is located behind the bottom front cover
Procedure:
1.) Remove the two screws that secure the bottom
cover to the tank.
2.) Remove the fiberglass insulation until the shell
of the tank is visible.
3.) Locate the ¼” threaded stud and nut and the
two sensor wires that were factory run from the
top of the tank.
4.) Remove the ¼” nut from the stud and place the
10 K snsors on the stud. Secure it with the nut.
5.) Attach the wires on the sensor to the factory run
wires. Note: it does not matter which wire is
attached to the other.
6.) Replace the insulation and bottom cover.
13. OPEN LOOP FLUID HANDLING SYSTEM
An Eagle Sun open loop solar water heater operates
by circulating water from the storage tank to the
solar collectors when the collectors are at a higher
temperature than the tank. This function is
controlled by a differential temperature controller
with heat sensors. When the collectors are warmer
than the water inside the tank, the controller
switches on the pump. (Figure 16)
Figure 16

Open Loop 12
A recirculation feature of the controller provides
freeze protection. When the frost sensors at the
collector indicate freezing temperatures, the pump is
switched on and warm water is circulated through
the collectors until warmed. The pump is then
automatically switched off. This cycle repeats
periodically until freezing conditions no longer
exist. When a hard freeze is imminent or a power
failure occurs, the system should be drained by
closing the two gate valves that isolate the collector
loop and opening the two valves that allow the
collectors to drain.
Automatic air vents in the top of the system prevent
air locks. Care should be taken that no air can be
trapped in piping to and from the collectors.
Water returns to the tank from the collectors via a
drop tuber that extends halfway down the interior of
the tank. This allows the returning water to stratify
properly.
A check valve in the return line from the collectors
prevents thermosyphon losses during the night.
Temperature and pressure relief valves protect the
system from damage.
A backup electric element is provided in the top of
the tank to supply hot water during inclement
weather. Power required is 240 volts.
14. OPEN LOOP DIFFERENTIAL TEMPERATURE CONTROLLER
NOTE: When instructions are provided in the controller package, follow those and disregard the following.
The open loop differential temperature controller
controls the pump to gain maximum system
efficiency. When one of the two heat sensors
provided wit the unit rises nominally 100F above the
other sensor, a power control relay is energized.
Then, when the first sensor drops to within 50F of
the second sensor, the control relay remains
energized holding its power contacts closed;
however, when the temperature difference sensed is
50F or less, the relay contacts open. (The 50F value
is designated as the “turn-off differential.”) The first
sensor is called the COLLECTOR SENSOR, since
when properly installed monitors the temperature of
the water in the solar collector. The second sensor
is called the STORAGE SENSOR. The frost sensors
activate the relay when freezing conditions exist.
Mount the controller in any position or location that
is convenient and sheltered from the elements.
Aesthetics and economy of running power leads
should dictate the location, since there is no
restriction on the length of leads to the sensors.
Connections to the circuit terminal strip inside the
controller enclosure should be made according to
Figure 17. ALL CONNECTIONS SHOULD BE
MADE WITH ACCORDANCE WITH LOCAL
ELECTRICAL CODES.
Specifications:
OPERATING VOLTAGE
105 to 125 vac, 60 Hertz
CONTROL RELAY CONTACT RATING
One third HP inductive load.
TURN-ON DIFFERENTIAL
100F (+10F) for Storage Sensor at 1350F
TURN-OFF DIFFERENTIAL
50F (+10F) for Storage Sensor at 1350F
SENSOR MATCHING ACCURACY
10F or less at 1350F
MAXIMUM SENSOR TEMPERATURE
3000F
Figure 17

Open Loop 13
15. OPEN LOOP START-UP
After visual inspection of the complete system, it is
ready for filling and pressure testing. All drain
valves should be closed, all other valves opened.
The air vent caps should be loosened two turns to
allow air to escape the system. The cold water inlet
valve should hen be opened slowly and system
checked for leaks as it fills. When the system is
completely full, indicated by water escaping from
the air vent when the valve is depressed it should be
pressure checked with normal pressure for 30
minutes. Final inspection should then be made and
power to the controller turned on. If the sun is
shining and the storage tank is cool, the pump
should come on and water should flow through the
collector. The first water through the collectors will
be very hot but should stabilize in about 15 minutes.
The return lines from the collectors should be hotter
than the inlet lines and the collector glass should be
slightly warmer than ambient temperature.
Testing of the frost sensor can be made at night
when the pump is not normally working. A piece of
ice set on the sensor should be sufficient to turn the
pump on. The pump should turn off as soon as the
sensor has a few seconds to warm back up when the
ice is removed. Caution should be exercised when
working on the roof at night.
16. OPEN LOOP MAINTENANCE
Maintenance of an open loop system is
straightforward. The tank should be partially
drained every 6 months to allow minerals to be
removed preventing scale build up (this is
recommended for all water heaters). The wye
strainer should be cleaned at least once a year or
more often if harsh water conditions exist. The
power should be switched off, the piping drained,
and the screen removed and cleaned.
The collector glass should be kept clean for best
system performance. Rainwater will usually suffice
but a garden hose can be used during dry weather.
The air vent caps should be loosened two turns for
proper operation and best system performance.

Open Loop 14
17. DIRECT PV SYSTEM
The single photovoltaic module, attached to the top
of the solar collector (Figure 18) operates a
brushless 12 VAC or 24 VAC pump at a speed
relative to the amount of available sun. When
clouds pass over, the pumping operation slows to
allow the water to remain in the collector longer for
continued heating. When the sun goes down in the
evening the pumping action will stop.
The solar system is installed as per the open loop
installation manual. The photovoltaic module will
replace the differential control and sensors. Be sure
to mount the panels on the same plane as the solar
collector.
When wiring the photovoltaic module to the
circulating pump use 16 gage stranded double
exterior PVC jacketed wire for lengths up to 85 feet
for 10 and 25 watt modules. Use 14 gage for over
85 feet for a module over 1.4 amps. When wiring
the module to the pump remember that the black
wire is always ground and the red wire is the hot
wire. Do not reverse the polarity.
Figure 18

Open Loop 15
18. OPERATIONAL CHECKLIST
Before the system is turned on, the piping and
electrical systems should be evaluated to see if they
match the supplied drawings. If you are satisfied
that the system is installed correctly, it should be
filled and powered according to the preceding
instructions. When the system is in the operational
mode, care should be taken to check all piping for
leaks and to make sure sufficient insulation has been
used to provide maximum system efficiency. All
modes of operation should be checked by the
installer to assure proper functioning under all
conditions.
TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE
Problems with systems usually fall under two
categories: system leaks or lack of sufficient solar
heated water.
LEAKS
If leaks exist the system should be shut down for
repairs. Make sure the electrical circuit to the
controller is off. Close off the cold water inlet or in
case of a leak in the closed loop system, isolate as
much of the system as possible and then drain and
repair the affected area.
There is a possibility that what appears to be leaks
may be condensation on the pipes. Also water
escaping for the T & P valve may be an indication
of proper function as they are designed to vent off
excess temperature and pressure.
INSUFFICIENT HOT WATER
If insufficient hot water is available a system
malfunction may not be indicated. A low amount of
solar radiation or heavy water demand can be the
cause.
If no excessive demands are put on the system and
ample solar radiation is available, the system should
operate properly. The pump should run each sunny
day until a full supply of hot water is stored. If the
pump does not run, there is a problem on the
electrical end of the system. Either the pump,
controller, or sensors are malfunctioning. The
controller can be bypassed by running a power cable
directly to the pump and checking its function
separate from the control system. Make sure that
the problem is not a blown fuse or a tripped breaker.
If the pump runs normally when powered
externally, the control circuit is the problem area.
Eagle Sun controllers use thermistor sensors to
determine modes of operation. A controller testor is
available from AET for checking differential
function. Check sensor wiring. If no faulty wiring
can be discovered, replace sensors.
If the pump is running all the time, even when the
collectors are cool, then the storage sensor or
collector sensor may be open. It is also possible that
the sensor wire itself is at fault. To check this, test
the continuity with an ohm meter. Be sure to
disconnect the sensor when performing this test.
Test the wire with both ends open, then retest often
twisting the 2 sensor wires together at one end. The
system can be set on a timer or switched on
manually until the controller is properly
functioning.
CONDENSATION ON COLLECTORS
If condensation occurs inside the collectors, ¼” vent
holes should be drilled in the lower side of the
collector. Three holes should be drilled, one at each
end of the bottom of the collector and one in the
center. These holes should be drilled 1” from the
base of the collector
This should clear up any condensation within three
days.
OTHER PROBLEMS
A noisy pump is an indication of worn bearings
obstruction or loss of prime. As a rule of thumb
about 8 to 12 degrees should be expected as a
normal gain across a collector in bright sun at
proper flow rate.

Open Loop 16
SYSTEM PARTS LIST
Solar Collectors
Set of Mounting Hardware for each collector
Hot Water Storage Tank
Circulator Pump
Pump Flanges
Differential Temperature Controller
Controller Sensors
Fluid circulation components (valves and fittings)
Installation Manual
COLLECTOR YARD MOUNT
When no sunny roof area is available or for “show”
systems, the collectors can be mounted on the
ground as shown in Figure 19. The piping and
control wiring to the tank should be insulated and
buried. It is important that the length of these
piping runs be minimized.
Notes:
1. Front edge of collector should be 18” above
ground
2. Use washers on all bolted wood connections
3. All pieces must be measured and cut to orient
collector at latitude + 100– consult
trigonometric reference.
4. Piping to collector may be buried.
Figure 19