Aqua Science CLEAR MAX User manual

Owners Manual
AquaScienceAZ.com
m o r e s o l u t i o n s . b e t t e r p r o d u c t s . g r e a t s e r v i c e .
Applicable to CLEAR MAX, PURE MAX and ecoRO
4 and 5 Stage Models

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CONGRATULATIONS!
Your choice in a Reverse Osmosis System will yield purer, healthier and better tasting water in your household. You have invested
in a sophisticated home drinking water appliance. Please take the time to carefully review this manual. To realize your systems
maximum performance, you should become familiar with your system and how your reverse osmosis system works.
WARNING
This Reverse Osmosis System should not be used where the water is microbiologically unsafe or with water of unknown quality
without adequate disinfection before and/or after the system. Your local dealer can assist you with testing of your source water and
any additional treatment if necessary. Installation by a trained professional is recommended. Your local dealer is familiar with the
installation, operation and maintenance of your Reverse Osmosis System.
GENERAL HINTS
USE LOTS OF WATER
Your RO system will perform better and last longer with heavier usage. Use your RO water for pets, plants, steam irons,
developing pictures, aquariums, automobile batteries, juices, infant formula, ice cubes, cooking, coffee and tea, etc. See what a
difference it makes.
TO KEEP WATER IT’S FRESHEST
In addition to heavy usage it is a good idea to drain your storage tank once a week. Before you go to bed, open your faucet and let
the water run down the drain until goes down to a trickle. Then shut off your faucet. When you wake up the next morning, you will
have a tank of fresh water.
WHILE GONE ON VACATION
If the water supply to your house is shut off or you are going away for more than 6 months, you should remove your RO membrane
to protect it from bacteria growth. Remove the entire RO membrane and housing placing it in sealed plastic and store in a
refrigerator until you return. You will also need to drain your storage tank to protect it from bacteria growth. Discard the rst tank of
water after restarting the system when you return.
CHANGE FILTERS AS RECOMMENDED
This can not be over emphasized. After 6-12 months of collecting the dirt, sand, chlorine, etc. These lters cannot hold any more
and need to be changed. They may even start to grow bacteria and can plug up completely and cut-off the water supply to the
unit. Or they may allow impurities to pass through and damage the RO membrane thereby reducing the quality of the water at the
faucet.
PROTECT FROM FREEZING
Failure to protect the system from freezing may cause housings to leak and cause water damage.
KEEP SERVICE RECORDS
Use the space on the inside back cover to log lter changes and service.

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IMPORTANT: Before installing this reverse osmosis system, make
certain your water supply complies with the following operating speci-
cations. Failure to do so may reduce the effectiveness of the system
and will void the warranty.
SPECIFICATIONS
Thin Film Composite Membrane:
Feed Water Pressure:
Temperature Range:
TDS (Total Dissolved Solids):
Maximum Hardness †:
Sulde, Iron and Manganese:‡
Chlorine in Water Supply:
pH Limits:
Turbidity:
TFC
40 to 80 psi
40-100°F
2000 ppm
10 gpg (171 mg/l)
0 ppm <0.1 ppm
Less than 2 ppm
3-9
11 NTU Average
†If the hardness of your water is above 10 gpg (171mg/l), lime scale
will build up rapidly on the membrane. Scale buildup will plug the
membrane and make the system ineffective. We do not recommend
these reverse osmosis systems to be used with water in excess of 10
gpg (171mg/l) hardness.
‡A maximum total level of approximately 0.01 ppm sulde, iron or
manganese is permissible. Should your water exceed this, see your
local dealer to reduce these substances in your water.
PARTS INCLUDED:
Pre-assembled and leak tested lter system (mounting bracket,
membrane housing, membrane, pre-lter housings, pre-lter cartridges
and post-lter).
* Reverse Osmosis Membrane *Storage Tank
* Inlet supply adaptor *Drain saddle
* Feed Tubing (1/4-inch) *Tank Tubing (3/8”)
* Tank valve *Faucet Tubing (3/8”)
SYSTEM DIMENSIONS
Overall Dimensions: 14” W x 5 1/2” D x 17” H
Weight: 17.3 lbs. (dry)
Tank Dimensions 10” Dia. x 14” H
Tank Capacity Max: 2.8 Gallons
Tank Air Pressure Empty 7 to 10psi
NOTE:
•Your water must be within required limits for satisfactory operation. If not,
your membrane life may be shortened and your warranty will be voided.
•This reverse osmosis system will not protect against disease-causing
bacteria or remove naturally-occurring harmless bacteria.
• Install on cold water line only.
• Do not use wicking or sealer to tting connections into the cap of the
lter. Plumber tape is recommended.
• Make certain that installation complies with all state and local laws and
regulations.
• The replacement cartridges and reverse osmosis membrane
included with this system have limited service lives. Changes in
taste, odor, and color of the water being ltered indicate that the
cartridge should be replaced (see Replacing the Pre- and Post-Filters,
and Replacing the Membrane).
• After prolonged periods of non-use (such as during a vacation) it is
recommended that the system be ushed for 5 minutes and the tank
drained before it is used.
• A drinking water cartridge may contain carbon nes (very ne black
powder). After installation, ush the system for 5 minutes to remove the
carbon nes before using the water.
• It is recommended that you run the tap at least 20 seconds prior to using
water for drinking or cooking purposes.
• The contaminants or other substances removed or reduced by this water
treatment device are not necessarily present in your water.

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RO MEMBRANE PRECAUTIONS
Chlorine will destroy the TFC membrane. If you use this RO system
with a chlorinated or periodically chlorinated supply, it is ABSOLUTELY
NECESSARY to use a carbon pre-lter (included with the system). This
carbon pre-lter should be changed periodically to avoid chlorine bypass. See
warranty for disclaimers that apply to membrane.
NOTE: To make sure no chlorine is present in the water that reach the
membrane, you may want to use a chlorine test kit to check the water that
drains from the membrane.No chlorine should ever be detected.
HOW REVERSE OSMOSIS WORKS
The denition of reverse osmosis is to force water under pressure through
a semi-permeable membrane. Thereby the membrane reduces the salt and
minerals in your water supply. This will improve the taste and odor of your
water. The water molecule can pass through the membrane material but salt
and minerals are rejected and sent to the drain.
Your water supply is pre-ltered to remove the dirt and chlorine that may
foul the membrane. The RO membrane separates this pre-ltered water into
Product Water and Drain or Rejected Water. Incoming water pressure forces
product water through the membrane and into the storage tank. Dissolved
solids, salts, and other contaminants cannot pass through the membrane
and are sent to the drain as rejected water. When you draw water from your
RO faucet, product water is drawn from the storage tank and is run through
the post lter where it is polished to remove anything that may be left. This
provides you with great tasting, cleaner water for your drinking pleasure.
The storage tank can hold approximately 2.8 gallons of water at a time for
your water needs.
BASIC INSTALLATION PROCEDURE GUIDELINES
• For standard, under-sink installation on 3/8-inch steel, brass or copper cold
water supply line.
• Please read all instructions and precautions before installing and using
your new RO System.
• All local codes should be followed. Should the products we supply with the
unit not meet local codes, consult local plumbing supply house for correct
ttings to connect the system.
1. Installing the Water Supply Adapter
Directions
1. First shut off the cold water angle stop supply valve stopping the ow of
water. Should there not be a shut-off valve on this supply line, you should
install one.
2. Turn on cold water faucet and allow the water to drain from line.
3. Remove the supply line that runs up to the faucet. Install the brass swivel
adapter (supplied with the unit).
4. Install the brass compression nut, insert, ferrule, and plastic shut-off ball
valve (Illustration #1), supplied with the unit. After this is complete, turn the
water back on at the angle stop and check for leaks.
INSTALLATION (CONTINUED)
2. Selecting the Faucet Location
The drinking water faucet should be positioned with function, convenience
and appearance in mind. An adequate at area is required to allow faucet
base to rest securely. The faucet ts through a 3⁄4-inch hole. Most sinks
have pre-drilled 1 1⁄2-inch or 1 3⁄8-inch diameter holes designed for spray
hoses. The drinking water faucet may be installed using one of these holes,
despite their larger size. If these pre-drilled holes cannot be used or are in an
inconvenient location, it will be necessary to drill a 3⁄4-inch hole in the sink or
through countertop next to the sink for the faucet. Non Air-Gap faucets are
available when required and they would only require a 1/2-inch hole.
• This procedure may generate dusts which can cause severe irritation if
inhaled or come in contact with the eyes. The use of safety glasses and
safety mask for this procedure is recommended.
• Do not attempt to drill through an all-porcelain or porcelain-coated sink. For
applications on these types of sinks we recommend using the sprayer hole
or mounting the faucet through the countertop.
• When drilling through a countertop make sure the area below the drilled
area is free of wiring and piping. Make certain that you have ample room to
make the proper connections to the bottom of the faucet.
• Do not drill through a countertop that is more than 1 inch thick.
• Do not attempt to drill through a tiled, marble, granite or similar countertop.
Consult a plumber or the countertop manufacturer for advice or assistance.
CAUTION
(SEE ILLUSTRATION #2 (next page)
The following instructions apply to stainless steel sinks ONLY.
1. Line bottom of sink with newspaper to prevent shavings, parts or tools from
falling down the drain.
2. Place masking or duct tape over the area to be drilled to help prevent
scratches if drill bit slips.
3. Mark point with center punch. Use a 1/4-inch drill bit to drill a pilot hole
through sink.
4. Use a 11⁄4-inch hole saw to enlarge hole. Smooth rough edges with a le.
3. Mounting the Faucet
1. Loosen stem-nut on faucet, remove metal slotted disc (if attached).
2. Attach large diameter 3/8-inch drain tube to barb tting at the faucet base.
This tube should be long enough to reach the drain clamp. This is a gravity
drain and should free ow to drain saddle.
3. Attach small diameter 1/4-inch drain tube to other barb tting at faucet
base. This tube should be the black 1/4-inch drain line from the RO
Assembly Drain.
4. Slide faucet plate and black rubber washer onto faucet by threading both
drain tubes through the holes on the plate and washer.
5. Slide white extension onto long threaded section of faucet. Open end of
extension should come in contact with base of faucet.
6. Apply 3-5 wraps of plumber tape to faucet stem. Screw quick connector
onto end of threads.
7. Wet end of 3/8” tube. Push into bottom of connector. Tug gently to be sure
connection is complete.
NOTE: To remove the tube, push on the ttings’ collar and pull the tube out.
8. Holding the faucet, feed the three tubes through the hole in the sink.
Position the faucet handle at a desired location
9. Center the faucet and slip slotted disc between the white extension and the
bottom of the counter or sink. Tighten the stem nut with a wrench until it is
tight.
10. Firmly insert goose-neck spout into faucet base
CAUTION CAUTION

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Illustration of
Drilling Sink
(instruction on previous page)
4. Installing the Drain Clamp
NOTE: If you have a single-basin
sink with a disposal unit, call
Technical Support for options.
NOTE: Before installing the drain
clamp, check the drain pipes under
the sink for corrosion. Corroded
pipes should be replaced before
continuing with installation.
• Attach the drain clamp to a vertical section of the drain pipe, about 6
inches above the trap. Make sure the opening on the drain clamp is facing
towards the drinking water faucet.
• Using the tting hole of the drain clamp as a guide, drill a 1/4-inch hole
through one side of the drainpipe.
• Remove the drain clamp from the
drain-pipe and enlarge the hole
with a 3/8-inch drill bit. Use a le
to remove rough edges from the
drilled hole.
• Make sure the black rubber gas-
ket is adhered to the inside of the
drain clamp and place the drain
clamp assembly over the drilled
hole. Look through the hole and
posi-tion the clamp so that the
center of the clamp hole is slightly
higher (about 1/16-inch) than the
center of the drilled hole.
• Tighten the clamp securely.
• Screw the plastic compression nut onto the drain clamp until hand-tight.
5. Connecting the Faucet to the Drain
This is a gravity drain line. Any loops, kinks or sharp bends must be
eliminated before proceeding. Failure to create a straight line to the drain
may result in reject water leaking through the air gap in the faucet onto the
countertop and below the faucet.
CAUTION
1. Align the larger reject (3/8-inch) black tubing from the faucet with the
compression nut on the drain clamp. Create as straight and smooth a path
as possible with the tubing. Do not kink tube. Cut the tubing squarely below
the nut and remove the internal and external burrs.
2. Loosen the compression nut two complete turns. Insert the black tubing
into the nut until it stops. Tighten with ngers, then tighten 1 to 2 turns with
a wrench.
6. Installation of Mounting Screws
1. If system is being installed under the kitchen
sink, locate it on back or right wall. Make sure
to allow ample space for installation. To change
the lter cartridges, a minimum of 1-1⁄2 inches
of clearance is required under-neath the lter
housings. A minimum of 2 inches of clear-ance
from the left side of the unit is also required or
5 inches from the left bracket mounting screw
hole.
2. Install mounting screws at least 15 inches from
cabinet oor and 7-inches apart.
3. Leave a 5/16-inch space between the head
of the screw and the wall to slip bracket onto
screws.
NOTE: Each section of tubing on the RO Assembly has a cap that must be removed
before inserting tubing. Please remove all cap during installation.
7. Connecting the Faucet and the Drain to the System
1. Locate the reject or drain 1/4” black tubing from the drinking water faucet.
This tube is the smaller of the two. Place a mark on the tubing 5/8-inch
from the end. Moisten the end of the tubing with water and insert tubing
into the quick-connect tting on the ow restrictor found on the of system
behind the membrane. If tubing is not rmly connected, leaking will occur.
It is important for the tubing to be inserted all the way until the mark is
ush with the outer edge of the quick-connect insert.
NOTE: Tubing may be quickly and easily removed from the tting if
necessary by pressing the collar around the tting then pulling the tubing
with your other hand.
2. The blue tube from the bottom of the faucet threaded metal tube is
inserted into the outlet of the post lter. Push the free end of the tubing
into the quick connect tting.
CAUTION CAUTION

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INSTALLATION (CONTINUED)
8. Connecting the Storage Tank to the System
1. To prevent leaks, apply 5 or more wraps of plumbers tape to threads on
tank. Thread the tank valve onto the top of the tank opening. Turn tank
so handle is in line with tubing.
2. Locate the 3/8-inch red tubing. Place a mark on the tubing 5/8-inch from
each end. Moisten one end of the tubing with water and insert with a
twisting motion into the port of the tank valve until the 5/8-inch mark
is ush with the quick connect tting. Then locate the tank near the
system’s installation area.
3. Cut the tubing to correct length. Install free end of tubing into quick-
connect tting on the post lter tee. Do not cut tubing.
4. Place entire system over mounting screws on wall and slide down.
CAUTION
• When the tank is full it weighs approximately 28.5 lbs. Provide ample
support under tank.
• The tank/valve connection will leak if not properly sealed. Plumbers tape
will normally seal the threaded connection.
• Make certain system is rmly attached to wall to prevent it from falling and
possibly becoming damaged.
• NOTE: Use caution not to bend or pinch the tubing behind the system
while attaching to mounting screws.
CAUTION CAUTION
9. Connecting the Supply Adapter and Inlet Filter
1. Locate remaining length of 1/4-inch yellow plastic tubing.
2. Push into quick connect tting on the system.
3. Cut the yellow tube to a length that will allow connection to the cold
water supply tting. Ensure the tubing does not kink. Push the tube into
the tting.
10. Faucet Operation
1. Simply turn the faucet a quarter turn and water will ow.
11. System Start-up
Note: The reverse osmosis membrane is treated with a food grade sanitizing
agent that may cause a undesirable taste. Although this is not harmful, it
should be ushed from the system if not previously ushed.
Note: The post polishing lter may contain ne black carbon particles. These
nes are harmless, but may make the water appear gray in color. The carbon
nes are ushed from the system with the rst tank full of water.
Note: The reverse osmosis system does not produce a high volume of water
on demand as would an ordinary lter. Water is produced at a slow, drop-
by-drop rate. The system requires about 2 to 4 hours to ll the storage tank.
As water is taken from the tank, the system automatically starts the cycle of
replacing the water used. When this is completed and the storage tank is full
again, the system automatically shuts-off thereby saving water.
CAUTION Visually check the entire system for leaks. If a leak is
present, see “Troubleshooting”.ow.
1. Turn off valve at the top of storage tank. This valve is closed when the
valve handle is at a right angle to the tubing.
2. Turn on the cold water supply
3. Turn the faucet handle to the open position and let it drip for 30 minutes.
4. Completely open the cold water supply valve until it comes to a stop.
Allow the water to drip from faucet for another 2-3 hours. Then close the
faucet and open the valve on the top of the storage tank. The tank valve
is open when the handle of the valve is pointed at the tubing connection.
5. Allow three hours for the tank to ll. Continue to periodically check the
installation for leaks. After the storage tank is full, open the faucet to
ush the post lter of the black carbon nes we spoke of earlier. Allow
4-5 minutes for the storage tank to drain and ush the post lter. Close
faucet and allow the storage tank to rell.
Illustration Shows
Instruction #8
Illustration Shows
Instruction #11
NOTE: Initially, the water may appear cloudy. This is a result of air bubbles
trapped in the post lter. It is not harmful and will dissipate in a matter of a
day or so. It may take up to a week after installing a new post lter for all the
trapped air bubbles to dissipate.
The system is now ready for operation. You can now enjoy the quality water
from your new reverse osmosis system.
TESTING YOUR REVERSE OSMOSIS SYSTEM
It is highly recommended that you have your local dealer test the TDS of your
system with every lter change to make sure the system is performing to
expected standards.

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OPTIONAL INSTALLATION
Connecting your RO System to Refrigerator Icemaker / Water Dispenser
• If you are connecting this unit to your refrigerator/icemaker with initial RO
installation, wait to turn on the icemaker until the post-polishing lter has
been ushed according to Step 11.
• Use plastic tubing and ttings. Do not use copper tubing or brass ttings.
NOTE: For optimum performance, it is recommended that the distance
between the RO system and the refrigerator icemaker/water dispenser be no
greater than 10 feet. At distances greater than 10 feet, the water pressure
from the system may not be adequate to deliver water to the refrigerator.
MATERIALS REQUIRED (available from your local hardware store):
• 3/8-inch x 3/8-inch x 3/8-inch compression or quick-connect tee
• 10 feet of 3/8-inch polyethylene tubing
• Shut-off valve
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
1. Turn off refrigerator water supply and icemaker (consult manufacturer’s
guidelines).
2. Close tank valve (on top of storage tank).
3. Turn off water supply to RO system at the cold water supply.
4. Open drinking water faucet to relieve pressure.
5. Locate tubing (permeate) leading to your drinking water faucet. Cut and
insert the 3/8-inch x 3/8-inch x 3/8-inch compression or quick-connect
tee into the permeate tubing.
Consult manufacturer’s guidelines before installing the supply adapter.
NOTE: When cutting the permeate tubing, you may experience some water
leakage.
6. Using a length of 3/8-inch polyethylene tubing, connect the icemaker/
dispenser line with the free port on the compression tee.
7. The shut-off valve should be installed as close to this free port of the
tee as possible. Shut-off valve should be installed in the OFF position
Consult manufacturer’s guidelines before installing the shut-off valve.
8. Completely open cold water supply.
9. Open tank valve.
10. Turn off the drinking water faucet.
11. Turn on water to RO system at cold water supply.
12. Turn on icemaker and open shut-off valve.
13. Check for leaks and tighten connections if necessary.
Be sure to check the previous refrigerator shut-off valve for leaks. You may
have to install a blank cap or nut to stop the water ow because this valve
may not totally shut-off.
CAUTION CAUTION CAUTION

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FILTER CHANGES
Replacing the Pre-Filter
The cartridges should be replaced every 6-12 months.
If your water contains a high amount of sediment, it may be necessary to
change the sediment cartridge more frequently. If your water contains a high
amount of chlorine, it may be necessary to change the carbon pre-lter (s)
more often.
1. Turn off incoming water supply and the storage tank valve. Place a tray
under the system to catch any water that may spill during the removal of
the lter housings.
2. Open faucet to release any water pressure.
3. Unscrew bottom of lter housings from caps using a lter wrench if
necessary. Discard used lters.
4. Remove black rubber “O”-ring from groove in housing. Wipe grooves and
“O”-ring clean, set “O”-ring aside.
5. Lubricate each “O”-ring with a coating of clean silicone grease. With two
ngers press each “O”-ring securely into the groove below the threads of
the appropriate housing
6. Insert cartridge in the bottom of the housings. Make sure the cartridge slips
over the standpipe in the bottom of the housing.
NOTE: Be sure to install cartridges in the proper housings.
7. Screw bottoms of housings back onto the caps securely, do not over-
tighten. Hand tighten should be sufcient. Turn on clod water supply.
Check for leaks. Continue to check periodically to make sure no leaks
develop.
Replacing the Post-Filter
Post-Filter should be replaced every 12 months.
1. Turn off incoming water supply and valve on the storage tank. Place a tray
under system to catch any water that may drip during the removal of the
post lter.
2. Open faucet to release pressure.
3. Remove lter from bracket and discard.
4. Remove tubes from ttings by pressing in collar around the tting while
pulling the tube with the other hand. Note: If quick connect ttings need to
be installed, tape tting with 5 wraps of plumbers tape and attach to lter.
5. Attach post-lter to bracket with the tee tting on the inlet end.
6. Attach tubes to ttings by pushing in until the tube stops. Check to see if
tube is in place by trying to gently pull tube out.
CAUTION CAUTION CAUTION
Ensure the tape is not touching the “O”-ring on the tting or a leak may occur.
NOTE: The lter has an arrow on it showing the direction of the ow. The
tee tting connects to the inlet side of the lter and the elbow attaches to the
outlet side.
NOTE: Hand tighten ttings, then tighten with a wrench 1/4 turn.
CAUTION CAUTION
The rubber “O”-ring provides the water tight seal between the cap and the
bottom sump. It is important that the “O”-ring be properly seated in the
groove below the threads of the housing or a leak may occur.
CAUTION
REPLACING THE REVERSE OSMOSIS MEMBRANE
About the Reverse Osmosis Membrane
When used under the operating conditions specied on page one of this
manual, your reverse osmosis membrane should last at least one to ve
years. You should replace the membrane after 18 to 60 months. Replace
it sooner if you notice the return of the unpleasant taste and odors or a
noticeable decline in the production rate. The precise life span of the reverse
osmosis membrane will depend on the quality of the water supply feeding
the system and the frequency with which you use the system. Frequent use
of the system prevents the ltered salt from building up on the membrane
as scale. The more water the system is required to produce, the longer the
membrane will last. You may wish to nd a variety of uses for your system to
prolong the life of the membrane.
During periods of non-use (such as during long vacations), remove the
membrane housing and place it in a sealed plastic bag. Store in the
refrigerator until you return.
NOTE: DO NOT FREEZE.
NOTE: If the system stands for two or three days with no use, the storage
tank should be drained.
Replacing the Membrane and Sanitizing the System
NOTE: It is recommended that you sanitize the system each time you change
the membrane. It is not necessary to sanitize the system when changing only
the lters.
NOTE: When installing a new membrane, it is recommended that you replace
the pre-lter and post-lter as well.
Removing the Membrane and Filters
1. Turn off the cold water supply. Allow ve minutes for the system to
depressurize. Place a tray under the system to catch any water that may
spill during the removal of the lter housings.
2. Open the drinking water faucet to drain storage tank. When tank is drained,
close faucet.
3. Disconnect the tubing from membrane housing. Hold the membrane with
one hand and re-move the cap with the other hand.
4. To remove the membrane, grasp the center tube of the membrane with
needle nose pliers and pull. Discard the old membrane. Screw cap back
on membrane housing without installing the new membrane. Reinstall the
tubing to housing at this time.
5. Unscrew lter housings from caps and discard old used lters.

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SANITIZING THE SYSTEM
1. Remove black rubber “O”-rings from grooves in housings. Wipe grooves
and “O”-rings clean, set “O”-rings aside for now.
2. Rinse out bottom of housings and ll each 1/3 full with water. Add 2
tablespoons of house-hold bleach to each housing and scrub cap, bottom
of housings and the membrane housing with a non-abrasive brush or
sponge. Rinse thoroughly
3. Lubricate each “O”-ring with a coating of clean silicone grease. With two
ngers press each “O”-ring securely into the groove below the threads of
the appropriate housing.
4. Screw bottom of housing onto caps WITHOUT inserting lters and hand-
tighten. Do not over-tighten.
5. Open the cold water supply and let system run for 2-3 minutes to
carry the bleach solution throughout the system.
6. Close the cold water supply and turn on the drinking water faucet.
Let the faucet run for about 30 seconds before turning off.
7. Let the entire system stand for 30 minutes to sanitize.
8. After 30 minutes, turn on the drinking water faucet to allow the
bleach water to rinse out (about 3-5 minutes).
9. Unscrew bottom of housings, discard any water and rinse with fresh
water.
The rubber “O”-ring provides the water tight seal between the cap and the
bottom sump. It is important that the “O”-ring be properly seated in the groove
below the threads of the housing or a leak may occur.
CAUTION CAUTION CAUTION
REPLACING THE MEMBRANE & FILTERS
To replace lters, see Replacing the Pre-Filters and Post-Filter on page 8.
To replace the membrane, see illustration #10 below.
NOTE: After installing new membrane and lters, allow the system to run for
three hours to ll tank. Check system for leaks periodically. As the storage
tank builds pressure, leak may occur that were not present initially.
When membrane and lters have been changed, follow the instructions for
system start-up procedure Step #11 System Start-Up.
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
Leaks Between Bottom of Housing and Cap
1. Ensure sump is tightly screwed to cap. If it leaks, close the cold water
supply and the tank valve.
2. Clean black rubber “O”-ring and lubricate with clean silicone grease. With
two ngers, insert “O”-ring in groove below threads of housing and press
into place. Tighten housing back onto cap.
3. Open cold water supply and tank valve.
If leak persists, call Technical Support.
Leaks on Tank Valve Assembly
1. Open drinking water faucet to drain storage tank. Let drinking water faucet
run until it drips. Turn off cold water supply.
2. Push in on white collar of tank valve tting and pull out on tubing. Unscrew
the tank valve from storage tank. Rewrap threads on top of tank with at
least 5-8 wraps of plumbers tape. Screw tank valve back onto tank. Trim
1/2” from end of tubing and reinsert 5/8” back into tank valve tting.
3. Open the cold water supply and tank valve and close the drinking water
faucet. Let system pressurize for several hours and check for leaks. Check
for leaks again after the tank is full.
Leaks on Quick-Connect Fitting
1. Close the cold water supply and tank valve.
2. Depress plastic collar and pull out tubing.
3. Cut off 1/2” of tubing and place mark 5/8” from end of tubing. Tubing
should be cut squarely. The internal and external burrs should be removed.
4. Push in tubing 5/8” into tting.
5. Open the cold water supply and tank valve. If leak persists, call Technical
Support.
No Flow or Slow Flow from the Brine (Drain) Line
Less than 1 1/2 cups per minute.
NOTE: Before checking brine (or reject) ow, make sure the system is
producing water by turning off the tank valve and opening the faucet. Water
should drip from faucet.
1. Examine the pre-lters. If clogged, replace and recheck the brine (or drain)
ow rate.
2. If the pre-lter are not at fault, the brine (or reject) ow controller is
probably clogged.
High TDS in Product Water
If high levels of TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) are detected in your product
water (approximately 30% or greater of what is measured in your tap water,
as determined with a conductivity meter), the RO membrane may need to be
replaced, or the brine (or drain) ow control tubing may be clogged. See your
dealer or plumber to test product water TDS.
Reduced Production
Slow or no product water ow usually indicates either a clogged pre-lter or
an exhausted membrane. First, replace the pre-lters. If the production rate is
not improved, replace membrane.
Gradual Return of Taste and Odor
Gradual return of unpleasant taste and odor over a period of time may
indicate that your lter cartridges and/or membrane need to be replaced. See
“Replacing the Pre-Filters and Replacing RO Membrane”.
Sudden Return of Taste and Odor
If shortly after complete servicing noticeable taste and odors return contact
Technical Support.
No Water Pressure from the Drinking Water Faucet or Low Volume in
Storage Tank
1. Close the cold water supply to system.
2. Lift storage tank to see if it is empty. If not, open drinking water faucet to
empty water from tank.
3. When the tank is empty, use a pressure gauge to check the air pressure in
the tank. An empty tank should contain approximately 7 to 10 psi pressure
in the tank. Increase or decrease the air in the tank accordingly.
4. Open cold water supply. Let system run for 3 hours to ll tank, then check
performance.
NOTE: it may be necessary to pump a small amount of air into the tank with
a bicycle pump to remove all the water from the tank.

10
CALL FOR SERVICE 480-894-0770
AquaScienceAZ.com
10
Solutions For Life
SERVICE LOG
Date of Installation ____________________________________
Serial # ____________________________________
Date Service Comments