AR KITS E175 D53 User manual

®Australian Railway Kits
ABN: 27 416 246 418
Incorporating Main West Models
Manufacturers, Wholesalers and Retailers of Quality Australian Model Railways
PO Box 252 Warwick, Queensland, 4370 Australia
Phone/Fax: [phone] Website: www.arkits.com Email: [e-mail]
NSWGR D53 2-8-0 LOCOMOTIVE
AND TENDER KIT
E175 Manufactured Exclusively for AR Kits by DJH Engineering from Patterns owned by AR Kits
PLEASE READ INSTRUCTIONS THOROUGHLY BEFORE COMMENCING ASSEMBLY
CONSTRUCTION
It is important to ensure that all parts are clean, free of "flash" (excess metal on castings) and they fit properly.
The "flash line" is easily removed from most areas by scraping gently with a sharp hobby knife - a round blade is
more effective than a straight pointed type. Pull the blade along the "flash line" - several light strokes are better
than a single one. Some areas are better cleaned up with 6" jewellers' files. Take care not to flatten round parts by
filing too heavily. All locating holes for detail fittings should be pre-drilled to the size specified in the instructions.
Sometimes it is necessary to clean out these holes with a "rat tail" file; take care not to snap off the tip of the file.
Gently wash the castings in warm soapy water to remove mould release residue.
Etched brass items are best removed from the fret by placing the fret on a scrap piece of hard timber (e.g.
Pyneboard) and cutting the tabs with a large Stanley knife - cut the tab at the point furthest away from the part,
then trim the tab off close to the part with a small pair of quality side cutters. Hold small parts with a pair of flat
nosed (not serrated jaws) pliers while cleaning up with jewellers' files. Be careful not to distort the etchings; they
are difficult to straighten if bent or twisted. Drill all required holes before assembly, noting the spigot sizes of the
fittings, because some holes will be difficult to drill after parts are assembled.
As with all classes of NSWGR locomotives, individual D53s varied in minor details from time to time in their life.
Modellers are therefore advised to check photographs of the particular locomotive they have chosen to model.
These kits are designed to give many years of operating pleasure. A little extra time taken during construction will
ensure that your kit will do this. It cannot be emphasised too strongly that the basis of a smoothly operating model
is care when constructing the chassis and valve gear, i.e. you must double check every step. Check that the axles
turn freely in their bearings, check again with the coupling rods on, then again with the connecting rods on, etc.
Assembly methods
The two main construction methods are:
(a) Low melt solder - Low melt solder is an excellent medium for use with white metal kits. It is quick and easy
providing a stronger joint than can be achieved with glue. It has the added advantage of easily repairing minor
casting flaws, and because of the relatively low temperature, many parts can be held in the fingers while soldering.
Brass to white metal joints can also be made by "tinning" the brass first with normal solder. Low melt soldering
requires the correct type of soldering iron (e.g. Dick Smith T2000). These irons have temperature control, as low
melt solder only requires around 200 degrees centigrade. You must use special low melting point solder, such as
the range available from AR Kits.
IT IS ADVISABLE NOT TO ATTEMPT TO SOLDER ANY CASTINGS WITH A STANDARD SOLDERING IRON
(b) Glue - Superglue and Plastibond are two types of glues suitable for use with this kit. Some modellers prefer to
superglue major joints first then "fillet" the joint with Plastibond. Small detail parts are best glued with Superglue.
Glue is not recommended for those parts needing good electrical contact, such as the tender bogies.
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It does not matter which method you choose but dry fitting parts will ensure a good fit.
Electrical pickup
The electrical system used on these kits is called "half live". Looking from the top facing forward the locomotive
chassis collects current from the live wheels on the right-hand side, shown as LS (live side) on the drawings. The
tender is insulated from the locomotive and current is collected from the wheels on the left-hand side of the
tender.
Cleaning up/Painting
On completion, any areas which were soldered should be washed using a soft brush and methylated spirits. An
excellent pressure pack flux remover is also available from Dick Smith stores. Then wash thoroughly in warm
soapy water. Rinse with clean water and allow to dry thoroughly before applying a suitable self-etch primer.
Spare Parts
Spare parts are available on a replacement basis. Should any part be missing or damaged contact AR Kits for
replacement. Should you have any problems with the Mashima motor please do not attempt to repair it yourself -
return the motor to us. Mashima will not replace motors which have been tampered with.
Should you have any queries or problems with construction please drop us a note and we will do our best to
advise you. Likewise we would be pleased to hear any suggestions you may have for improving the kits or
instructions.
General
The following drill sizes are required: 0.5mm, 0.6mm, 0.7mm, 0.8mm,
0.9mm,l.Omm,l.2mm,1.5mm,1.6mm,1.9mm, 2.Omm, 2.1mm, 3.7mm.
During construction refer to the drawings at all times. A number of parts are quite similar, so double check if in
doubt. Note that attached to the instructions is a photocopy of the lost wax brass castings sprues with each part
numbered for easy identification. In the general instructions the part numbers are shown in brackets.
The instructions sometimes refer to the right-hand (R/H) and left-hand (L/H) side. This is taken as viewing the
model from above and looking forward.
To minimise the risk of losing parts, do not remove them from the etched fret or the plastic packing until you are
ready to use them. We recommend that you start construction with the tender.
Safety First
These models are not toys and are not suitable for young children. White metal castings contain lead and modellers
are advised to wash their hands after working with unpainted white metal castings. When using superglue, solder
or when spray painting, ensure your work area is well ventilated`
Tender Drawing T1 (Parts Tl - T22)
Take tender back and sides (T2) and fold to form rounded corners, note that the corners have a series of lines
etched on the inside of the corners to facilitate rounded, corners; fold the corners carefully to form a radius
corner, not a sharp one. At this point solder the bogie centre pivots (T9x2) to the underside of the tender floor.
Now fix the back and sides onto the tender floor (T1). Note that the arrow etched on top of the tender floor points
to the front. Use solders sparingly to avoid excess creeping through join and onto the rivet detail. Fold the door
shapes on the tender front (T3) as shown in the small insert drawing 1, then fix to the floor and sides. Bend the
coal trough (T4) and fix to the front (T3) noting that the fold on the rear coal trough helps to locate this part.
Fit the side valances (T6x2) followed by front valance (T5). Check that the assembly is "square". Before adding
the front steps (T7x2), fold the bottom step as shown. Add front step treads (T8x2). Fit the front bulkhead steps
(T10x2) and the brake cylinder (T22) to the tender floor. Test fit the tender top (T11) into the tender body -do
NOT fix in place at this stage.
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Fix the turned brass side frame mounts (T14x4) to the bogie side frames (T12x4). For good electrical pickup low
melt solder is recommended here. The bogie stretchers (T15x2) are on the etched nickel silver valve gear fret -
remove them.
Check that the holes either side fit over the brass side frame mounts (T14), you may need to enlarge the hole slightly.
Check also that the holes for screws (T16x4) are large enough. Fold the stretchers as per drawing 1, using a pair of flat
nosed (non-serrated) pliers.
Push the brass wheel bearings (T13x8) in the bogie side frames using low melt solder if necessary, and attach the side
frames to the stretcher with 4.Omm long brass screws (T16x4) and washers (also from the nickel silver fret) (T17x4).
Tighten the screws then gently ease the side frames apart to fit the wheel sets (T18x4) in place, making sure the
insulated wheels are on the same side for each bogie - see drawing 1. Place the bogie on a piece of flat track and test
run, some "fine tuning" may be necessary.
Take the bogie mounting screws (T21x2) and attach the assembled bogies to the tender using the springs (T20x2) and
washers (T19x2). Note the two springs (T20x2) are cut to a length of 4.Omm from the single spring provided.
Tender Drawing T2 (Parts T23 - T39)
Fit the water filler (T23) and tool box (T24) to the tender top, followed by the coal partition (T37) and the fire iron
bracket (T39). Fit lamp bracket (T32). Using 0.4mm wire, fold and fit rear grab iron. Fit the drawbar pin (T25) using
M2 nut (T26). Fold and fit the tender floor (T28). Fit the short handrail knob (T29) noting that the hole is aligned
vertically. Using 0.4mm wire make up handbrake stand using handbrake wheel (T30). Fit buffer beam (T34) to the
underneath of the floor, noting that the two vertical spigots form the lamp irons.
Now fix the tender top (T11) in place before adding coal (T38) and fire irons (T27x3). Fold and fit the ladder (T31) as
shown - hook the top of the ladder over the top of the tender into the two dimples provided, (for easy fitting drill
these out to 0.7mm) and locate the horizontal lugs into the holes on the back of the tender. Secure in place by spot
soldering the bottom lugs to the buffer beam (T34). Fit the brake pipe (T36) followed by buffers (T35x2). Fix the
lamps (T33x2) to the rear of the tender on the outside edge (and level with the top) of the conduit.
Locomotive Drawing 1 (Parts 1- 26)
As mentioned previously all holes shown on the drawing should be drilled prior to assembly.
Fit the smoke box (13) to the boiler/firebox (11) making sure that the base of the smoke box and firebox are level
(check the assembly on a flat surface). Check that there is no flash inside the firebox which may prevent the motor
from fitting properly. Trim the M2 screw (14) to a length of l lmm and secure in place inside the smoke box. Clean up
the footplate (16) and remove the feed sprues from the centre cutout under the boiler using a razor saw. Do not use
side cutters as they will distort the casting. Fix the smoke box/boiler/firebox assembly to the footplate (16) securing it
in place with M2 nut (17) making sure that the footplate is kept straight.
Remove the cab (1) from the fret and fold up as shown. Solder the inside corners of the sides/front. Fix the screw (2)
into the cab as shown at this stage as it is not possible to do this once the cab assembly is completed. Take the fall
plate (3) and fold the tabs down 90 degrees, then glue the plasticard (6) to the underside trimming so that it overlaps
the three outside faces by 0.8mm to prevent it shorting out against the tender. Attach the fall plate (3) to the cab floor
(4) using 0.4mm wire as shown. Fold the cab floor support (5) as shown and fix into the cab. Fix the cab floor (4) on
top of the cab floor support (5). Fit R/H cab sandbox (7) and L/H sandbox (8) in place.
Fit the completed cab to the footplate using M2 nut (17). Detail the boiler by adding the safety valves (19), steam
generator (20), dome (21), chimney (22) and smoke box door (23) -note: drill the smoke box door as shown before
fitting. Fix main frames (15) followed by the footplate sand boxes (24xpair).
The fitting of the gearbox (25), motor (12), back head detail (10) and regulator handle (9) is covered under Chassis
Drawing 7.
Locomotive Drawing 2 (Parts 27 - 60)
Drawing 4 covers the fitting of handrails, pipe work and other minor fittings.
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Note that steps (54) should be folded before fitting, likewise rear step treads (55x4) and front buffer beam step (43).
When fitting the guard irons (35x2) note that they need bending out to the track centres (see the photograph on the
label for clarity). Note also that the boiler handrails go right around the boiler and that they have been shown broken
on the drawing for clarity.
Chassis Drawing 3 (Parts 61 - 89)
Take one R/H frame (61) and L/H frame (62). Carefully clean out the axle holes with a 3.7mm drill bit and push fit
the axle bushes (63x8). The bushes should be a firm fit in the frames -any loose bushes should be soldered in place.
Note there are a number of holes in the chassis that may require cleaning out to a specific size, check drawing for
details. Fit the turned brass chassis spacers (64a & 64b) noting that the rear spacer (64b) has a M2 thread for fixing
the motor (see drawing). The holes in both spacers must be aligned vertically. Fit front mounting plate (65) and
rear mounting plate (66) and tighten the spacer screws (67x4). Temporarily fit axles and wheels to the front and rear
axles bushes and place the chassis on a section of level track to check that the chassis sits properly on the track. If
necessary, loosen the spacer screws and adjust. Remove the wheels and axles and solder the chassis together.
Before fitting the driving wheels (78x2, 79x2, 83x2 and 84x2) note that the insulated wheels are on the L/H side as
viewed from the top facing forward and that the two centre driving wheels are flangeless. Fit the driving wheels, axles
(77x4) and axle spacing washers (81x8) - due to manufacturing tolerances these spacing washers (81x8) are not always
required on all axles. In some cases they may cause the chassis to bind, particularly on sharp curves. Test to suit your
application. Secure the wheels with the axle nuts (80x8), placing the axle gear (82) on the second axle as shown on the
drawing. If necessary clean out the hole in the axle gear with a 1/8" reamer or 1/8" drill bit. Move the gear to one side
of the axle, place a small spot of super glue or Loctite 601 on the centre of the axle and push the gear to the centre of
the axle. Make sure the gear is "square" with the axle. Be careful not to get any glue or Loctite in the axle bushes. Make
sure that all axles rotate freely in the axle bushes. The wheels are quartered so that the crankpin on the right hand
wheel leads that of the left hand wheel by 90 degrees when the axle rotates forward. Use a Romford axle nut driver to
tighten the axle nuts. Remove the etched counterweights (87x4), (88x4) from the fret and glue to the wheels as shown.
Using a Romford axle nut driver fit the crankpins (85x8). Axle covers (86x8) should be fitted after final assembly and
painting.
Now fit drawbar/tender pickup placing insulator washer (70) on M2 screw (68) cut to 10mm, and pass this through
the rear mounting plate (66). Add insulator (71) and secure with M2 nut (72). Now add spring plate (73), loco tender
coupler (74) and spring (75) (cut a length of 7.Omm), followed by M2 nut (76).
Chassis Drawing 4 (Parts 91 - 109)
Fit crankpin spacing washers (91x8) then add rear coupling rods (92xpair), leading coupling rods (93xpair) and centre
coupling rods (94xpair). For easy removal of the coupling rods during testing, painting etc, strip a short length of
insulation from some fine electrical wire and push this "tubing" onto the crankpins as a temporary retainer. The
crankpin washers (95x8) should not be fitted until the chassis has been completed and painted. Check that the rods
revolve freely; should binding occur, locate where this happening and gently ease out the offending hole in the
coupling rod with a rat-tail file, remove the minimum amount to achieve free movement. Sometimes swapping the
side rods around (i.e. left to right) can overcome binding.
Remove the wheels from the chassis and fold the rear brakes (98) as shown before fitting. Note that the arrow on top
of the etch points to the front. Using 0.7mm wire, fit the leading brakes (96x2) and support bracket brakes (97x2) -
note that the leading brakes (96) are etched with a "W", and the support bracket brakes (97x2) are etched with a"V".
Using 0.7mm wire through the holes at the rear of the frames locate the R/H pull rod (100) and L/H pull rod (101)
between the frames. Note that the 0.7mm wire extends 3.Omm on the L/H side for later fitting of the brake cylinder
(115). Fit the brake stretchers (99x3) and leading brake stretchers (102x2).
Test fit slide bar support bracket (103) into the cutouts on top of the frame making sure it can be pushed down to the
bottom of the cutout. Trim the outside locating lugs to clear the wheel flanges and put aside for later fitting. Make up
cylinder assemblies using cylinders (104x2), rear cylinder covers (105x2) and front cylinder covers (106x2) - note that
rear cylinder covers are drilled 1.2mm.
Fold the slide bars (107x2) as shown, note these are left and right handed, the etched fold line goes to the inside of the
fold. Test fit the crosshead into slide bar, you may need to clear out the keyways of the crossheads using a knife-edge
file, or you may need to lightly file the inside edges of the slide bars to achieve a good fit. It is essential that the
crossheads slide smoothly in the slide bars.
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Fix the slide bar assemblies to the rear of the cylinders and also attach underneath the cylinders - see drawing. Fix the
completed cylinder assemblies to the frames.
Trim M2 screw (108) to a length of 9.Omm and fix to front spacer (64a) using M2 nut (109).
Chassis Drawing 5 (Parts 116 - 130)
Fit brake cylinder (115) and pass 0.7mm wire through as shown. Assemble the front bogie using bogie body (121),
bogie wheel (122) and bogie arm (123). Attach bogie wheel inserts (124x2) and fix bogie to chassis with M2 nut (125).
Fit wheels, axles and side rods. Fit the connecting rods (111xpair) to crossheads (112xpair) using 14BA screw (110x2)
and nut (113x2). Fit the crossheads into the slide bars and then fit the slide bar support bracket (103).
Assemble the gearbox as per the accompanying instructions and trim the shaft to 3.Smm as shown in drawing 3. Do
not force the worm onto the shaft. If necessary, carefully ream the worm bore using a 2.Omm drill or hand reamer so
that the worm fits the shaft without undue force. Use a spot of superglue or Loctite 601 to permanently fix in place.
Clean the shaft of excess glue or Loctite. As the gearbox screws are self tapping, screw the bottom cover plate screws
in and out a couple of times before fitting the gearbox to the chassis. Before fitting the gearbox remove the centre
section of the slide bar support bracket (103) as shown in drawing 7. Remove 0.75mm from the bottom of the
gearbox as shown in drawing 7 and fit gearbox to the chassis.
Fit the locomotive body to the chassis securing with M2 nuts (118 and 119).
Take two 60mm lengths of pickup wire, solder to the motor terminals and mark the positive (+) lead for later
identification. Trim the motor coupling sleeve to 12mm and fit half way onto the motor shaft. Pass the motor through
the hole in the front of the cab ensuring the motor coupling sleeve (26) couples to the shaft on the gearbox (check
from underneath). Note, for easier fitting/removal of the motor, temporarily screw an M2 x 16mm bolt into one of
the threaded holes in the rear of the motor, finger-tight only. Pass the wires down through the footplate, see drawing
3. Fit M2 screw (89) to the rear chassis spacer (64b) and gently tighten the M2 screw just enough to retain the
motor. Take the negative lead and solder it to the power clip (7) which locates under M2 body mounting nut (119)
(see drawing 7). The other wire spot solders to loco tender coupling (74) (see drawing 5).
Lightly oil the mechanism and test run, checking for electrical "shorts" on sharp curves etc. Also check that the motor
does not overheat due to chassis binding.
24 Feb 2009
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