BellSouth 100 User manual

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BELLSOUTH 100 ELECTRONIC
INCUBATOR
Operating Instructions
Proudly made in Australia.
Standard Manual Turning, pages 1-11
Fully Automatic Turning 12-17
Semi-Automatic Turning 17-19.
IMPORTANT: Read the instructions thoroughly before
commencing with incubation.
CONTENTS
1. In the box you will find the following items:
A/ The top case containing the view port, heating element,
electronic thermostat under cover, indicator lamp and
temperature sensor
B/ The base with its cast water channels and black entry
bungs
C/ A perforated metal steel floor that sits in the base and
D/ The thermometer and its screw and mounting bracket.

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2. Remove thermometer from the box. The stainless steel
stand has two lines drawn on it. Bend the stand along the lines
and then screw the thermometer onto the stand (See Fig 1).
The bottom of the thermometer bulb should be level with, or
just above, the top of the eggs. Adjust the height by bending
the stand (See Fig 2). Place the thermometer where it can be
seen through the view port. The idea is to mimic the broody
bird.
The broody bird places the heat of her body on top of the
eggs, so we place the thermometer to measure the temperature
on top of the eggs.

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3. Adjust the end of the temperature sensor lead until it is just
clear of the top of the eggs (See Fig 2). It is usual for the
sensor to be l-3mm above the top surface of the egg. Place the
top of the incubator over the base and check that the
thermometer is easily read through the view port. Do not put
eggs in the incubator until temperature has been
stabilised.
Plug in the incubator to the 240Volt supply and immediately
the indicator lamp will glow. This indicates that the heater is
heating. The thermostat has been pre-set to approximately 103
degrees F (103°F).
This temperature will rise and eventually the lamp will
commence flashing. Usually this will occur within a few
degrees of the set temperature. Leave the machine at least 1
hour to stabilise, then adjust the control up or down a little as
indicated by the thermometer until the temperature remains
stable at 103°F. The temperature controller is on top of the
incubator. When the incubator reaches temperature set, the
lamp will flash continuously. Allow at least twenty minutes
between adjustments.
Please note: Temperature is measured in Fahrenheit inside
the incubator.
The indicator lamp will tell you the following.
a) If the indicator glows brightly, the element is giving full
heat
b)If the lamp is turning on and off then it is working and is
stabilising

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c) If the lamp is on for about the same time it is off, then
the temperature is stable, check it is 103°F and make
small adjustments if necessary. Allow 20 minutes
between adjustments
d)If the lamp is off the heater has turned off.
4. If you haven’t done so, fill a water channel with warm
water and you are ready to set eggs. If the ambient humidity is
high use the smaller channel. If the ambient humidity is low
use the outer channel. Place the eggs on the perforated mesh
floor, replace the lid and leave the incubator to restabilise.
Turn the eggs at least twice a day, once in the morning and
once at night.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

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GUIDELINES FOR GOOD HATCHING RESULTS
1. Healthy breeders lay healthy eggs. There is no replacement
for eggs from birds correctly mated, in prime health, and fed
on rations specially prepared for breeding. Ordinary laying
rations do not have the vitamin concentrations required for
excellent hatching results. Soluble vitamins added to the water
are often the difference between excellent and average results.
2. Choose only those eggs which are smooth, clean, average in
size and not deformed. Experience shows that other eggs will
not hatch as well.
3. Once the egg is laid, nothing can be done to improve its
hatchability. Poor storage will greatly reduce the hatch. Eggs
should be stored around 15°C, with a relative humidity of
85 % and to be turned once a day. Eggs should be set within 7
days of being laid.
4. The key to successful operation is in the temperature.
Remember the broody hen uses body temperature on the top
of the eggs. So for good results, all eggs in the incubator
should be close to the same size.
5. Set thermometer with the bulb level, with the top of the eggs,
and 103 degrees F as the set temperature. Thermometer and
temperature sensor should be at the same height as the top of
the eggs but should not touch the eggs (see Fig 2). Remember
a few minutes setting up correctly will save a lot of distress.

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6.Turning the eggs. The turning of the eggs is the next most
critical factor. Turning the eggs is important for allowing the
embryo access to the nutrients in the egg. Turning should be
done at least twice a day, once in the morning and once at
night. It is easier if the eggs are marked on one side with a
cross and on the other with a zero. The eggs should be
carefully turned a full 180 degrees. Avoid jarring and
bumping the eggs as this can damage the embryos.
7. The moisture in the incubator is important as it prevents the
egg from drying out. A dried out egg will not develop
properly and will cause the chick to be stuck in the shell even
if it lives to hatch time. However, too much moisture will
mean that many chicks will actually drown in the egg before
hatch time. Chicks with shells stuck on them, or chipped and
not hatched, are symptoms of marginal high humidity. The
water channels in the base provide correct moisture for most
situations. Select the inner channel for damp climates, the
outer channel for normal climates, and both channels for dry
climates. However, in some rare cases, additional moisture
may be added by sprinkling the eggs. Experience has shown
that over 90% of situations will only require the outer water
channel throughout the incubation process. So try the first
batch with the outer channel and alter this if required. When
using the automatic turner, start by filling only the inside
water channel. Remember, too much water is just as bad as
not enough so don’t use too much.
TIP if the water dries out in less than a week, it is on the dry
side, if the water takes 2 weeks to dry out, then it’s on the wet
side. Depth doesn’t matter, it is surface area that matters.

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8. Candling the eggs is a useful technique for assessing the
process of incubation. Candling is carried out in a darkened
room using a small light source. This can be a torch with a
cover attached and a hole about 15 to 20mm diameter. When
directed at the large end of the egg the inside of the egg will
be illuminated. Look through the side of the egg. This will
show the air cell, and the growth of the embryo. The
development of the air cell is shown in (Fig 3). The eggs to be
candled every 7 days. Any clear eggs, eggs where the embryo
is stuck on the shell, or eggs with broken blood vessels should
be removed. Experience will show up these eggs. Healthy
embryos will show up as a spidery network of veins with a
central embryo.
9. Hatching time means special treatment for the eggs. The eggs
should not be turned after 18 days (chicken eggs). Ensure that
the outer water channel is full with warm water. Leave the lid
on the incubator after this time and the humidity will build up
for the hatch. There is usually no need to add extra water to
the incubator for the hatch. Too much water at this time will
mean very wet chicks. If the chicks are too wet, then use only
the inside water channel during the whole incubation period.
Do not open the lid again until all the chicks have hatched.
Opening the lid at this stage will only damage the hatch.
Many chicks are ruined lifting the lid to check the hatch.
The chicks can be removed from the incubator once they have
fluffed up. This will usually take up to 24 hours.
The chicks should now be placed in a suitable brooder.

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10. After removing the chicks from the incubator, the base
should be washed before it dries out. Warm soapy water is used
for cleaning the base. A few drops of White King in the water
for the water channels will help kill any bacteria which has
come into the incubator on the eggs.
11.Some hints on failures
Early hatch. Too high average incubator temperature. Late
hatch. Too low average incubator temperature.
Early deaths before 6 days. High temperature surge or poor
egg storage.
Late deaths about 18 days not pipped. Poor breeder diet,
inadequate humidity, incorrect temperature.
Dead in shell, at pipping. Genetic factors, insufficient turning,
incorrect temperature, or too much humidity.
Wet chicks at hatch. High average humidity during incubation
or at hatch time.
12. Diagnosing Machine Malfunctions
Incubator temperature too low
1) Possibly room temperature too low. If the lamp is on all
the time and the incubator is below the set temperature this
indicates the room temperature is too low and the incubator
cannot make up the heat loss to the room, or perhaps there is a
draught. Ensure that the incubator is not on the floor or near a
window. If the temperature is too low when turned to
maximum (+ direction) and the lamp is turning on and off,
then the thermostat is out of calibration.

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2) Temperature too low, element cold, lamp off, possible
blown fuse or a dead thermostat.
3) If the power is turned on and the lamp flashes
momentarily, but there is no heat, possible element failure.
4) Do not cover the incubator with a towel if temperature is
low. It will block the ventilation holes and upset the air
distribution in the incubator.
Incubator temperature too high
1/ If the temperature is drifting upwards above 103F and the
light is almost always off, this indicates the room temperature
is close to the maximum allowable (30° C). This effect is most
prominent in summer and with a full batch of eggs in the last
4 days of the hatch cycle. To assist, remove the bungs in the
lid of the incubator to increase the airflow, or reduce the room
temperature below 30 degrees.
2/ If the temperature is turning on and off, but the control is
set to minimum (- direction), then this indicates the thermostat
is out of calibration.
3/ Faulty thermometer. Thermometers are vital to correct
operation and the use of different brands of thermometer may
give quite different results. Always use the correct
thermometer with your incubator.

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Temperature erratic
1/ Room temperature varies too much. The ideal is around 20
degrees, but wide variations make it hard to achieve consistent
temperatures.
2/ Corrosion or dirt on the thermostat. Replace thermostat.
3/ Worn control shaft. Touching the shaft, or tapping the lid
causes the lamp to switch on and off. Replace thermostat.
4/ Temperature drifts and also humidity is high. Is the
incubator on a plain table, or on carpet or a towel, which
blocks the air ventilation holes. Place on plain table only.

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Fig. 4
Examining and Checking Thermometers
Sometimes separations can occur in thermometers (see Fig 4).
These will cause inaccuracies. ANY breaks in the spirit
column will cause inaccuracies which will reduce results.
Examine the thermometer at the beginning of any period of
use and ensure that the column in the thermometer is
complete.
Top thermometer reads lower than incubator temperature and
the black blob at the very top cannot be repaired. Middle
thermometer reads higher than incubator temperature. Bottom
thermometer reads correct to the incubator temperature.
Want more helpful information on incubation principles? Ask for:
A Beginners Guide to incubation and Chick Rearing by J. Finger.

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Bellsouth 100 Automatic Turner
Using the Bellsouth 100 New Turner
1/ Parts of the Fully Automatic Turner
a/ Side rails x 2
b/ End piece plain
c/ End piece with motor and control, and motor clip
d/ Floor
e/ 12 tray dividers
f/ Accessory pack
g/ Power Plug with lead.
2/ Assembly
A/ Assemble the end pieces onto the side rails

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B/ Slide the motor clip over the end
piece, with the bottom tongue under
the perforated mesh floor. The curved
section of the clip should be to the
top.
C/ Slide the clip on until the
back of the clip is against the
end piece.
D/ Place the assembled frame
and perf mesh floor into the
incubator base. Remove bung
from the control end of the
incubator base.
E/ Place the tray into the turner frame with the gear teeth
under the motor. Lift the motor slightly to slide the tray into
place.

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F/ Check the side clearance of the floor inside the side rails. It
should be 1mm to 3mm, if the side movement is more than
3mm, then use an extra tray divider between the polystyrene
and side rail.
G/ Check the motor is engaged in the gear and plug in the
power pack. Plug the power pack into a good quality surge
protector 240 volt power socket and switch on. The tray will
move towards the motor until it reaches the home location,
then after 15 seconds the motor will run again, to an outward
position controlled by the control knob. Pressing the button
will cause the motor to run until it reaches its limit. Otherwise
it will turn automatically approximately every 1.5 hours.
Top Tip: Using a good quality surge protector and
uninterrupted power supply (UPS) is an effective way to
protect your incubator from power spikes and brown outs.

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3/ Loading
A/ Place an egg on the tray and place the thermometer on one
of the tray dividers using the bracket in the accessory pack, in
a place where the thermometer can be read through the
window. Adjust the height of the
thermometer bulb to the top of the
egg (manual instructions, page 2 and
3).
B/ Place the first tray divider near the
motor end. Place a row of eggs on the
tray and place a second divider in
place. Ensure the dividers allow
several millimetres clearance of the
eggs. If the eggs touch both dividers
at the same time they will skid and
not roll over. Too many eggs in each
row may make the eggs bind on each
other. Fill the tray with rows making
sure the rows are parallel.
TIP: If eggs roll up over each other,
place blunt ends together and pointy
ends together.

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C/ Press the button and check
the eggs roll over, adjust the
stroke if needed, anticlockwise
will reduce the turn stroke,
clockwise to increase the stroke.

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4/ Incubating eggs
A/ If the temperature has not been checked before installation,
watch carefully after placing the lid on the incubator, to
ensure the temperature is set correctly. The lamp will be
flashing.
B/ Use the auto turner until 3 days before hatch is due. It is
best if the turner is removed during hatch to keep it clean.
Chicks do best hatching on the mesh floor rather than in the
turning tray.
C/ Use the mini funnel to fill the water channels, the locator
holes are marked on the base. Use a matchstick or blunt
skewer as a dipstick measure for the water level.
5/ Cleaning the turner
It is important that the turner is kept clean so that it slides
smoothly.
Wash the floor, side rails and dividers in warm soapy water
and make sure the rollers on the sides roll freely when placed
back together.
DO NOT WASH THE DRIVE MOTOR, CONTROL BOX,
OR POWER PACK. Wipe these with a damp cloth to keep
clean.
SEMI AUTOMATIC TURNER
The use of the semi-automatic is similar to the fully automatic
in set up, with the exception that the drive is replaced with the
push rod and knob found in the semi auto accessory pack.
The thermometer mounting, tray spacing, and incubator
operation are all the same. Egg turning should be a minimum
of twice per day.

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SEMI AUTOMATIC TURNER UPGRADE KIT
The conversion from semi-automatic to fully automatic is a
simple procedure. The upgrade kit consists of a new end piece
with drive, perforated plastic base (with track) and power
pack. If you have a wire floor you will need a perforated
metal floor for the automatic turner to sit on.
Installation
1/ Remove the push rod from the tray, and remove the nut and
bolt from the tray. Check the side float of the tray is 1 to 3mm
(see auto turn instructions page 12-17)
2/ Modify the tray using a knife or file to cut out a recess in
the end of the tray for the stop switch. The cut-out is 2 squares
wide and one square deep and half height of the tray.
Plan view showing the gear track.
End view showing half height Angle view of cut-out of tray
3/ Take off one old end piece, slide the end upwards while
holding the side rail down and replace it with the new drive

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end piece. Fit the motor clip in place (see page 13). Make sure
the tray is in so the teeth of the drive gear engage in the teeth
of the tray
4/ Plug in the power, test the turning, set up the eggs and
thermometer as for Automatic turn (pages 12-17).
Some Incubation Settings and Times
Temperature
Set all eggs with thermometer level with top of the eggs, 103
degrees F. Remember if the temperature is correct hatch will
occur on the correct day for the species.
Humidity
Judge humidity is correct by the air cell development in the
egg (Figure 3).
Hatch Times (stop turning 3 days before hatch)
Chickens 21 days
Ducks Domestic 28 days
Muscovy Duck 25 days
Goose 28 to 25 days dependent on species
Quail (Com/Jap) 17 days
Bobwhite 23 days
Pheasants 23 to 28 days dependent on species
Partridge 23 days.