Bernina 900 User manual

My
BERNINA
Guide
t .aua,,
my
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snupai
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UiS
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colown,
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In Tim
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LAS•
.W.C
.o-,
900
590

List
of
Contents
Page
Appliqu6 work
..............
33
Automatic
stitches
6
Basting
.. ................. 16
Blind
hem-stitch
.............. 15
Buttonholes
................. 17
Buttonhole
gauge
............
41
Darning
...................
21
Double
needle
..............
36
Edgings
................... .12
Embroidery
................ .
34
Elastic
seam
s ............. 10
Elastic
thread
....... ....... 14
G atherer
................. .
3
1
Gathering
of
material
.14
Hem
gauge
....
.. ..
. 41
Hemmer
................
28
Hemstitching
...............
38
Inserting
zips
.... ... .
25
Jersey
seams
............... 9
Lap
hemmer
........
30
Monograms
...... ...
40
Overlock
.11
Parts
of the
machine
... .2
Patching
jersey
..
8
Patching material
.....
20
Pintucking
.................
37
Reverse
sewing
.. .. .... 4
Sewing
on
buttons
24
Straight stitch
4
Tailor
tacking
.........
26
Technical
hints
.3
Wool
darning
.
..
23
Zigzag
sewing
.... ... .5

Name:
Address:
Date
of
delivery:
Machine
No.
a~e f
d e iv e
r :
.................. ...................... .........
.
Dear
Bernina Customer,
You
are now
the happy owner
of a new
Bernina.
We
greatly
appreciate
the confidence
you
have
placed
in us
and
assure
you
that
you
will not
be
disappointed.
We have
deliberately
chosen
the
title
,My
Bernina
Guide",
because
we
are
certain
that
this
tuition
book
will
become
a
very
personal
thing
to you
in
association
with
your
machine.
Together
with
your
book
you
will
receive
instruction
from your
Bernina
dealer.
Your
samples
of
work
can
then
be
mounted
on
the
red
printed
spaces
provided
and
a
valuable work
of
reference
can
thus
be compiled.
Special
attachments
are
required
for
some
of
the jobs
described
in this
book. These
can
be
supplied
against
extra
charge.
Your
Bernina
dealer
will
be
glad
to advise
you.
As soon
as
you
have mastered
the
sewing
techniques
taught
to you
during
your
instruction
period you
will
discover
that
sewing
with a
Bernina
is
a
pleasure.
We
wish you
every
succes.
Model
900
Free-arm
zigzag
sewing machine
with
6
built-in
utility
stitches
Fr.
Gegauf
Ltd.,
Manufacturers
of
Bernina
Sewing Machines
and
automatic
buttonholer.
Steckborn
TG/
Switzerland

The
various
parts
of
the
machine
1
Needle
plate
2
Presser
foot
3
Needle
10
11
12
13
14 15
16
17.
1.8
4 Thread
regulator
6 Lamp
switch
7
Take-up
lever
88
Thread tension adjustment wheel
9
Winder
pre-tension
7
10
Thread
tension
11
Carrying
handle
6
•
12
Left-Center-Right
adjusting
knob
BERNIA,
(needle position)
5-
13
Stitch
width
adjusting
knob
(zigzag)
14
Utility
stitch
and
buttonhole
setting knob
15 Winder spindle
16
Handwheel
3
17 Handwheel
release
18 Accessories
19
Front
half of
case
I
20
Reverse-sewing
button
21
Drop-feed
control
a22
Stitch
length
adjusting
knob
23
Free-arm
cover-plate
24
Free-arm
25 Base
plate
26
Hinged
cover
26
O5A
23 22
21
20
19
---- --..2

Some technical hints
If you like to work as comfortably
as possible we would advise you to observe
the
A
following
points:
.. Place your Bernina far
enough from the table edge (about 5 inches) for you to
lean
,. . . . .your
left elbow on the table even
when using the slide-on sewing
plate which makes
sewing easier.
Sit exactly
in front of the needle bar. The mastering
of your sewing depends only on
how
you guide the material.
The basic rules are therefore:
.............
.1. Guide the material as close
as possible from the side, and near the
presser foot
2 ,.. not from the front
/
,/
, ,/ ....... 3_1...
and not with the
hand flat. Nor must the material be pulled to the
rear.
3

Straight
stitching
%r
tr1 1
I
I
I+ "
' A
22 20
left .centre
Straight
stitch
Reverse sewing
left
centre
right Stitch
wilýd 0
Press button
(20) for reverse
sewing
StLw tct( hi
I.4
(tightening). This
button is spring-load-
/
N
&/dY
pos•.
ýC.,ter
ed.
When
released,
the
machine
sews
to
12122
12
Ko
( 14)
trsqht
titch.
(A
forwards
again.
The
length
of
the
re-
,'
Fecd cowrcl
to ,Ioivq
verse stitch corresponds roughly
to that
.
Set stitch length
knob to desired length. of
the forward stitch set (in sector
0-2).
VA
Ii
Normal
stitch length = ippox
1 5
Needle Position a "
With
the needle position knob
the
needle can be set at
right or at left for *14
buttonholes,
blind hemming,
zips, etc.
Securing in
thick seams
,"
For normal
sewing
the needle re-
mains
in
the centre.
(Stitch length
not
too
short.)
I
Before stitching in reverse always leave .4
Y
the needle completely down in the ma-
terial, then move lever
to reverse sew-
LJ
14 ing.
The same applies when sewing
for-
ward
again.
I ... .. ....
4

Zigzag
sewing
I
,
---
- Guide the cut edge under the centre of
the foot
so that the needle actually goes
once into
the material and once
outside.
"*4 1 /4As a general rule
the following is valid:
zigzag not too wide, stitch length not too
long. First trim
the edge neatly
14 "_½
j v-I;,•
Zigzag sewing
Set zigzag
width according
to work and
__
material.
Trimming
seams
(Wrapping)
.... J. .
If
you guide
the
work
like
this:
From
the
front, close to the foot, fingers
on the
edge,
you
will
easily
get
a
neat
finish.
zigzg no to wid, sttchlengh
no
to

Automatic
stitches
(Model
900
and Model
901)
1 (0 414
-•
Export
•
Automatic
S
To
set the
plain
stitches:
set
knob
14 to
the required
pattern.
(Do
not leave
needle
in
the
material.)
It is best
to place
paper
underneath
when embroidering,
to pre-
/
vent
the
material
tightening
through
the width
of
the zigzag.
(Not
tissue
paper
since
too
soft.
Typewriter
paper
is suitable.)
22
Satin stitch
(close zigzag)
K b1k>
IKK>
i~
When
embroidering,
always
use
the
attachment
table
so
that
By
turning
the stitch setting
knob
22 from
stop
0 to
the
right
(direction
of arrow)
the satin
stitch spacing
the
work
runs
evenly
beneath
the
foot.
can
be
finely
regulated.
7
................ ............... .... ...................
......
........ .... ..... ...

Hems
on
Jersey
material
The Waving
of Jersey
To prevent the Jersey
from waving,
guide
an extra thread inside
the zigzag.
(Not only
for hems but whenever
jersey
stretches,
e.g, patching, oversewing,
etc.)
Press
with
a
damp
cloth
before
rmmcv-I
ing
the extra
thread,
77<
- -How to hold the extra thread
IC
Not like this, because you obscure your
-~
view of the work.
Jersey
hems for underwear
Hem wthou tuc
Hem
withou
tuck
But
like
this:
This
way
the view
is clear>
and the work
can be guided easily.
~~-tHol thet
Imotanea
slightly taut while
sew-
"'K
ing and the Jersey will not stretch
so
/ much.
The
thread
can
also
be
guided
throughA
-V..,the
hole
in the needle plate
like pintuck
/ '.
cord. (Especially useful for a large
..........
patch
............

Patching
Jersey
N. <V..0
\ ;(
Patching
jersey,
Patchin jersy
3How
to hold
the
scissors
N ý pý
r...Whenever
you
have to trim close to
a zigzag the scissors should
K
4
22hi4 '?ANAAX
ýBý
not be held
like
this (with
the backs
of the
hands
towards
you).
< 2
t> ,There
is
a risk that
you
might cut
into the stitches.
Baste
the new piece
on to the
right side
of the
work,
then sew
it on,
first with
.. . .. .
the zigzag
just
covering
the edge,
then
Whenever
possible
make the
patches
in round
shapes.
a second
time
one
presser
foot width
--
.....
/ "
from
the first
seam.
For cotton
Jersey
use the
extra thread
to
avoid waving.
'-.
(
Afterwards cut
the damaged
piece out
on
the
wrong
side.
(Hold
the
scissors
NN
correctly.)
This
way
is
much
easier.
Palm
of
the
hand
towards
you
hold-
ing thescissors
quite
flat!!!
Cut only
with the
tips of
the scis-
sors.
The thumb
of
the left hand should
be close
to the
seam
When
square
patches
are
unavoidable
at
least
the
corners
just
where
the
scissors
are cutting.
should
be rounded.

Elastic seams
on Jersey
Seams on
Jersey
L
Quick seam
*/4
Joins up and oversews
simultaneously.
Important! Cut edges
must be on left.
it
E Flat Seam
-
__ SCotton Jersey
Underwear
Four
important points
when sewing
1st
run:
join up
at
one
presser
foot
width.
Jersey
erse,3
2nd run:
press seam open and sew
over it on right
1. Baste always
with darning thread.
side.
2. Use only a perfect needle.
A blunt
To
finish off cut the remaining material.
Hold the scissors
needle leaves
holes.
, •'.. .. ..-o.......... • .. ......, co rrect ly .
3
Use
fine
mercerised thread.
corretly
a
- Gusset
Seam
4. Press each
seam after sewing and
1 1st
run
not all seams
together when the --
,
- -
work is completed.
Pin the pieces
together leaving the double layer
(gusset) pro-
truding about 'A inch. Sew atone presserfoot
width from the
inner edge.
o2nd run
.0 t
Press the whole seam towards
single layer of Jersey and sew at
-
one presser foot
width along first seam
on right side.
Trim off turnings.
Hold scissors correctly.
tC
0
Seams
for
Knitted
Fabrics:
E. • Dresses
-Skirts - Sweaters
Knitted fabrics
can be joined
up like other materials.
Seams are
. . ........... pressed
open but remain stretchy.
. .. ... .... ... . .. ..

Very elasti-c
seams
Stretch seam
xtfl
for ski
trousers
and very
elastic
fabrics,
for Helanca,
Crimplene, etc.
Stretch seam as hem
only
for jersey underwear
is:
414
Iron hem. (Do not turn under the edge.)
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ __ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _M
easure_
_
de t of :im and then
sew.
(Lytework under the presser foot so
that the somewhat
widerzigzag stitch is
I dirctedtowards
the edge of the hem.)
Fiihby cutting away surplus
fabric on
_______________________________th sewn_________________
edge.
10

Vari-Ovedock/
Highly
elastic
seam
Vari-Overlock
The
overlock
seam
is
used
for
sewing
together
and
Ctrimming.
Warning:
material
edge
must lie
to the
right.
The
following should be noted with
overlock sewing:
synthetic
fabrics should always
be
sewn with a synthetic
thread.
- - ------
----------------
... .....
........

Edgings
Shell Edging
K~7Ar 14
ld"'
Drop
feed
control:
sewing
2
,v
(, ..- Place
fo
ld
ed
e dg
e
to
th
e
left
as
fo
r 1 -7
Elast!c ban /7 i7 quick seam.
Elastic
band
Lace
on
jersey
Do not pullthe
elastic while sewing.
Pin or baste lace on and
sew straight
The zigzag stitch
stretches as much
on with zigzag. Trim off
surplus on
as
the elastic, wrong
side along zigzag.
Hold the
scissors correctly.
The
easiest
way when
sewing
Jer-
sey
is
to
gather
it
up
first,
sewing
long
straight
stitches,
then
draw
the
under thread
and
pull
work up
to de-
sired
length.
k
After
this, pin
on the
elastic
and sew
it
w it hz ig
za g . T r
i m o ff s
urp lu s m
a t e- ....
rial on
the
wrong
side.
(Hold
the
scis-
S
sors
correctly.)
2L
12

Edgings
cm
Lace
(and
inserts)
in material
1st
run
~Naro
edgirowng
Pin
lace
in place,
baste
and
sew
on
with
Narowedin
straight
stitch.
2nd run
Fold
turning to wrong side against
;
Flturninght
sito
wng p
sie
azigzait
Prepare
and
press turnings.
Sew zigzag
over
this pressed
edge
straight
stitch
and press.
Sew
a zigzag
as for
oversewing.
(Guide
work
as for
oversewing.)
Finally
trim
seam
over
the straight
stitch,
Then
cut
away
turnings.
Hold scissors
correctly.
off
the turnings
along
the zigzag
seam.
Hold the
scissors
correctly.
13

Elastic
thread
Gathering
of
material
V~ V/
Sewing
elastic
thread
Gathering
material
* 2
(,
jo
2
WIC
)
K,~ctdr Oh
-Oe ,'t'~
Thread the elastic through the hole in Pearl Cord
the embroidery foot and pull it while . .
The pearl cord is threaded through the hole of the embroidery
sewing. The more you pull the more it
foot (as with elastic thread)
and oversewn with zigzag. Con-
gathers.
For a second row (one
presser
trary to
elastic, the cotton is
not pulled while sewing but
only
foot width) pull material
straight while
afterwards. (Hold both
yarns and gather material.) Always
sewing.
sew two
rows at a
distance
of 2 mm
('A inch.).
When
doing it on
socks do not pull
the
elastic
too much.
Normal
gathering
Short pieces
or sheer fabrics
can also be gathered
in this way:
Sew two
rows of straight
stitch, then hold
both
bottom
Ji threads and
gather
up to the desired
width.
14

Blind hem stitch
//
This is how the work is placed under the
foot. Adjust
the zigzag
so that
the
............... . needle just catches the edge
of the fold.
Normal
setting
...............
Very
poor
position.
N m ...
(K
This is
the correct way Fingers
of left
w,•,,w••.-,•,wv,•-,.•hand
must lie on the folded edge so that
. . .. . ........ .. they can -,feel.• the regular feeding of
the
work. Hold the work
very lightly
i while sewing.
Oversew and prepare
the hem as dia-
gram,
baste with machine or
by hand V/4
inch from edge and press. • . ............... .
15

Basting
YYF
/
Basting
How the
pieces
of material
are
placed
under
the foot.
1 5
4
Important!
The
basting
stitches
are
not formed
in the
center
of
ef
the foot,
but at
the left
hand
position
of the
needle.
Therefore
'I!
I set basting
line
at left hand side
of
foot. (Holding the
work
taut
;
10 M'WO',
ensures
correct
guidance.)
The
magic
needle
has
two eyes,
one
Set zigzag
knob
13 toO
before
starting
to sew
and after
finish-
above the
other.
The
lower
eye
is ing,
so that
a few stitches
can be
sewn up.
threaded
for
regular sewing.
For
bast-
ing,
thread
the
upper eye.
Choose
stitch
length
according
to
ma-
terial and
work,
not
too short
or
the
basting
may not
easily
be removed.
It
is important
to pin
first,
especially
for
cross
stripes
that
have
to match
up
exactly.
To
secure
the threads
Sew
a few
stitches
with
zz on 0
at the
beginning
and end
of seam.
16

Buttonhole
Settings:
Stitch
width adjusting
knob (13) to
stitch
width 4
Turn
selector
knob
(14)
so
that
button-
14
hole
symbol No 1 is opposite
the mark-
ing
line
Sew
first
bead
forwards
L-C-R adjusting knob
(12) to center knob
(21) to
sewing
Set satin stitch spacing,
i e. knob (22) to
stitchlength
almostO
Thespacingcan
2
be finely
adjusted within
the range
0-0.5
depending
on material
and
p
Raise
needle
thread
by
means
of knob
(22)
Turnselectorknob(14)
furthertobuttonholesymbol
2
Foot
used:
buttonhole
foot
452
- machine
sews
the
bar
tack
12
14
It is
best to
check
the satin
stitch
spac
ing on a spare piece
of material
before _____
-
starting
to sew,
Before starting,
move needle down-
) ~wards, to
about foot height, and check j
22 whether
needle is in the middle of the
Needle raised
presser foot
slot
Set
selector knob to 3 - machine
sews second bead
-UIf
not,
turn
the
handwheel
until
the
r
backwards
needle is raised again.
cý•--21
But
in
no
event alter position
of
zigzag
and needle Now push work under
foot
and insert needle
exactly
at start of
but-
tonhole. 4
For sewing
a buttonhole
thread
lower9
thread through
finger of bobbin case.
I
Needle raised
. Set
selector knob to
4 - machine
sews bar tack
I 5 Needle raised
0
" Set
selector knob
to 5 -do sew-up
stitches
\¶-If further
buttonholes have to be sewn
knob (14)
U
should
be returned
to number
1
Remaining procedure
as described above
___ _____

Buttonhole
with
Reinforcing
Cord
-TI
t
S22
Fine
adjustment
for buttonhole
To
ensure that
the buttonhole
is subsequently
reinforced
The stitch
density can
be adapted
very
where the
button pulls,
bythe
loopof the
inserted
cord, always
easily to the
material
by means
of knob
introduce
the work
so that the
edge of
the material
lies in front
(22)
It is recommended
to sew
a trial
of the presser
foot.
buttonhole
on a scrap
of the
same fabric
to
be
used.
1.
Engage
buttonhole
device.
Move
needle
downwards
to
foot
level, to check that
it comes in the middle
of the foot
opening.
If not do one stitch
by hand, but never change
zigzag or needle
position. Bring
work underneath foot
and put
needle down
exactly
at the
beginning
of button-
hole
(inner
end). Do
not lower
the foot
yet.
2. Place
inserted
cord above
the middle
bridge on the
presser
foot and pull both ends under the foot to the rear. Do not
hold cord,
as this prevents work
from feeding
through.
18