LOCATION: Locate waterer in a place sheltered from the prevailing winds for reduced energy consumption.
Install the waterer 25 feet or more from self-feeders or bunk feeders to reduce the amount of feed and salt that is
dropped into the waterer.
WATER SUPPLY LINE: Horizontal underground waterline should be sized to account for any pressure drop relat-
ing to distance. The vertical supply pipe should be rigid plastic, copper or galvanized. We suggest you use a 1/2”
(1.27 cm) pipe for hog waterers and a ¾” (1.91 cm) for cattle waterers. Water lines over 50 feet (15.3 m) should
be one inch (2.54 cm), or larger. Use of undersized feeder pipe causes excessive pressure drop and loss of re-
covery capacity of waterer. Models are equipped with the following for supply connection: MH- ½ inch (1.27 cm),
MC, MJ, and MK – ¼ inch (.635 cm)
A shutoff valve should be provided under the waterer to shut off water when servicing. Flush supply pipe thor-
oughly before connecting to fountain. Water supply with foreign material such as sand, rust, etc. may require a
filter to keep valve working properly.
The full length of the vertical supply pipe must be centered in a 6-inch (15.3 cm) (or larger if the waterer will ac-
commodate it) riser tile or PVC casing. Extend the tile from a point 1 inch (2.54 cm) above the top of your platform
to a point below the frost line. DO NOT place insulation or other materials in the tile. This will stop the air flow and
cause water line to freeze up.
MOUNTING PAD: Waterer must be mounted on a concrete pad. The pad should be sloped about one-quarter
inch per foot away from the waterer. We recommend a minimum thickness of four inches (10.2 cm). The size of
the pad is left to the user’s discretion but we suggest you pour a pad large enough for livestock to stand on while
drinking. This is about 8’ square (.75 square meter) for MC, MJ, and MK models and 16’ square (1.5 square me-
ters) for model MH. An additional 4” (10.2 cm) pedestal (on top of the pad) extending 8 inches (20.3 cm) from the
waterer on all four sides will provide protection from livestock backing up to or rubbing against the waterer. It will
also protect it from manure and manure handling equipment. A rough broom finish to the concrete surface pro-
vides a better footing for livestock.
BE SURE TO PLACE A COPPER GROUND ROD TO USE IN GROUNDING THE WATERER AS SHOWN IN EXHIBIT
A. THE WATERER MUST BE GROUNDED AT LEAST 8 FEET (2.4 meters) INTO THE GROUND.
SETTING THE WATERER: Once the concrete is firm, mark the concrete for bolts by referring to Exhibits B, C, and
D. Space the bolts so you can easily line up the inlet pipe connection in the waterer. It is advisable to make a tem-
plate of the base of the waterer to check holes before the concrete is set. Alternatively, you may wish to mark the
concrete after it has set and drill holes to hold the anchor bolts. Install four 3/8” (.95 cm) x 5” (12.7 cm) bolts (not
included) in the concrete. When the concrete is dry, we recommend that you caulk (all weather sealant) the area
of waterer base contact. This will prevent air from leaking under the waterer and decreasing energy efficiency.
Also a sheet of aluminum foil placed over the concrete pad inside the waterer will reduce heat loss.
CONNECTION TO SUPPLY LINE: Connect a hose or pipe fitting to the shutoff valve at the top of the concrete. Cut
hose or pipe to proper length and connect to waterer. A flexible connector should be used with a small “S” shape
to relieve strain if frost heaving is possible. An inflexible connection should use a “swing joint:” to prevent frost
heave problems. Hose or pipe should not touch the outside surface of fountain or heating element.
FLOAT ADJUSTMENT: The water level in the trough is varied by changing the float position. Loosen the wing
screw and try various float positions until the desired level is attained. If a relatively consistent water level cannot
be maintained, the problem is most likely a widely varying pressure (more than 20 psi) in the system. In such a
case the basic cause of the trouble must be corrected to get proper operation of the valve. Tighten wing screw
securely.
If the float, bounces, valve chatter, or you have a pounding noise in the water line when a waterer turns off or on, it
is usually due to an excessive amount of air in your water line. In most situations this can be corrected by using a
smaller orifice to cut down the water opening in your valve. (See paragraph 7).
After replacing the float and valve cover, drain and refill the trough several times to ensure that the float arm oper-
ates freely.
INSTALLATION
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