BYOC Li'l Echo Manual

Build Your Own Clone
Li’l Echo
Kit Instructions
Warranty:
BYOC, Inc. guarantees that your kit will be complete and that all parts and components
will arrive as described, functioning and free of defect. Soldering, clipping, cutting,
stripping, or using any of the components in any way voids this guarantee. BYOC, Inc.
guarantees that the instructions for your kit will be free of any majors errors that would
cause you to permanently damage any components in your kit, but does not guarantee
that the instructions will be free of typos or minor errors. BYOC, Inc. does not warranty
the completed pedal as a whole functioning unit, nor do we warranty any of the
individual parts once they have been used. If you have a component that is used, but feel
it was defective prior to you using it, we reserve the right to determine whether or not the
component was faulty upon arrival. Please direct all warranty issues to:
[email protected] This would include any missing parts issues.
Return:
BYOC, Inc. accepts returns and exchanges on all products for any reason, as long as they
are unused. We do not accept partial kit returns. Returns and exchanges are for the full
purchase price less the cost of shipping and/or any promotional pricing. Return shipping
is the customer’s responsibility. This responsibility not only includes the cost of
shipping, but accountability of deliver as well. Please contact
[email protected] to receive a return authorization before mailing.
Tech Support:
BYOC, Inc. makes no promises or guarantees that you will successfully complete your
kit in a satisfactory manor. Nor does BYOC, Inc. promise or guarantee that you will

receive any technical support. Purchasing a product from BYOC, Inc. does not entitle
you to any amount of technical support. BYOC, Inc. does not promise or guarantee that
any technical support you may receive will be able to resolve any or all issues you may
be experiencing.
That being said, we will do our best to help you as much as we can. Our philosophy at
BYOC is that we will help you only as much as you are willing to help yourself. We
have a wonderful and friendly DIY discussion forum with an entire section devoted to the
technical support and modifications of BYOC kits.
www.byocelectronics.com/board
When posting a tech support thread on the BYOC forum, please post it in the correct
lounge, and please title your thread appropriately. If everyone titles their threads
“HELP!” then it makes it impossible for the people who are helping you to keep track of
your progress. A very brief description of your specific problem will do. It will also
make it easier to see if someone else is having or has had the same problem as you. The
question you are about to ask may already be answered. Here is a list of things that you
should include in the body of your tech support thread:
1. A detailed explanation of what the problem is. (more than, “It doesn’t work, help”)
2. Pic of the topside of your PCB.
3. Pic of the underside of your PCB.
4. Pic that clearly shows your footswitch/jack wiring and the wires going to the PCB
5. A pic that clearly shows your wiring going from the PCB to the pots and any other
switches(only if your kit has non-PC mounted pots and switches)
6. Is bypass working?
7. Does the LED come on?
8. If you answered yes to 6 and 7, what does the pedal do when it is in the "on" position?
9. Battery or adapter (if battery, is it good? If adapter, what type?)
Also, please only post photos that are in focus.
Copyrights:
All material in this document is copyrighted 2016 by BYOC, Inc.

Li’l Echo Kit Instruction Index
Parts Checklist……………………………………….page 4
Populating the Circuit Board……………………….page 7
Enclosure Assembly………………………………...page 14
Wiring………………………………………………..page 18
Operation Overview………………………………...page 23
Schematic……………………………………………page 24
PCB Back Trace Photo……………………………..page 25

Parts Checklist for the Li’l Echo Kit
Resistors (5 band) - (4 band: may have brown or gold on the last band)
1 - 470 Ohm/471 (Yellow/Purple/Black/Black/Brown) - (Yellow/Purple/Brown/Brown)
5 - 1k/102 (Brown/Black/Black/Brown/Brown) - (Brown/Black/Red/Brown
1 - 1k5/152 (Brown/Green/Black/Brown/Brown) - (Brown/Green/Red/Brown)
1 - 4k7 /472 (Yellow/Purple/Black/Brown/Brown) - (Yellow/Purple/Red/Brown)
7 - 10k/103 (Brown/Black/Black/Red/Brown) - (Brown/Black/Orange/Brown)
1 - 15k/153 (Brown/Green/Black/Red/Brown) - (Brown/Green/Orange/Brown)
1 - 22k/223 (Red/Red/Black/Red/Brown) - (Red/Red/Orange/Brown)
1 - 27k/273 (Red/Purple/Black/Red/Brown) - (Red/Purple/Orange/Brown)
3 - 100k/104 (Brown/Black/Black/Orange/Brown) - (Brown/Black/Yellow/Brown)
1 - 470k/474 (Yellow/Purple/Black/Orange/Brown) - (Yellow/Purple/Yellow/Brown)
1 - 1M/105 (Brown/Black/Black/Yellow/Brown) - (Brown/Black/Green/Brown)
Visit www.byocelectronics.com/resistorcodes.pdf for more information on how to
differentiate resistors.
Capa ci tors:
1 - 47pF Ceramic disc capacitor (round yellow with “47” on the body)
1- 470pF Ceramic disc capacitor (round yellow with “471” on the body)
2 - 2n7/.0027uF Film cap (may say “272” on the body)
1 - 4n7/.0047uF Film cap (may say “472” on the body)
1 - 10n/.01uF Film cap (may say “103” on the body)
2 - 15n/.015uF Film cap (may say “153” on the body)
1 - 27n/.027uF Film cap (may say “273” on the body)
1 - 47n/.047uF Film cap (may say “473” on the body)
2 - 82n/.082uF Film cap (may say “823” on the body)
3 - 100n/.1uF Film cap (may say “104” on the body)
5 - 220n/.22uF Film Cap (may say “224” on the body)
1 - 47uF Aluminum Electrolytic
Visit www.byocelectronics.com/capcodes.pdf for more info on how to differentiate
capacitors.
Diodes:
1 - 1n4001
Transistors:
1 - 78l05 5v regulator
IC:
1 - TL072 or similar dual opamp
1 - PT2399 Digital Delay Chip

Potentiometers: SNAP THE SMALL TABS ON THE TOP OF THE POTS OFF
WITH A PAIR OF NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS
1 - B50k (DELAY)
2 - B100K
(REPEATS and LEVEL)
Ha
r dwa re:
1 - predrilled enclosure w/ 4
s c r e ws
1 - Li’l Echo
PC B
1 - 3pdt
footsw itc h
2 - enclosed
Jacks
4 - rubber
bump e rs
2 - lock washers (for in and out
jac ks)
hook-up
w i r e

Your build should look similar to this when you’re finished.

Populating the Circuit Board
Step 1: Add all the resistors. Resistors are not polarized and can be inserted
in either direction.

Step 2: Add the diode. Be sure to match the end of the diode with the stripe
to the layout on the PCB. The striped end should go in the square solder pad.

Step 3: Add the ICs. Be sure to orient them correctly. There may be a notch
on the IC between the first pin and the last pin. Line that up with the
screenprint on the PCB. If your IC does not have a notch, look for a dot to
indicate pin 1. Pin one on the PCB will be a square hole.

Step 4: Add the voltage regulator. Be sure to match the flat side of the
transistor with the flat side on the screenprint.

Step 4: Add the film and ceramic disc capacitors. These are non-polarized
and can go in either direction. The ceramic disc capacitor is highlighted in
yellow.

Step 5: Add the aluminum electrolytic capacitors. These ARE polarized,
meaning there is a positive and negative end. The positive side will have a
longer lead and goes in the square solder pad. The negative side will have a
shorter lead and a stripe running along the body of the cap, and goes in the
round solder pad. Before soldering, bend the capacitor so it is laying down
like below

Enclosure Hardware
Assembly
Step 1: Mount the DC adapter jack.

Step 2: Mount the potentiometers. You will mount the top pots with the
solder lugs facing away from the DC Jack. Mount the lower pot with the lugs
facing toward the output jack as shown below.
Step 3: Mount the Audio Jacks. You want to orient them so that the SLEEVE
terminals (beveled corner of the jack) are facing away from each other. If

looking at the inside of the enclosure, the INPUT jack will have its sleeve
terminal facing towards the AC jack. The OUTPUT jack will have its sleeve
terminal facing towards the footswitch hole. The green arrows are pointing at
the sleeves.

Step 4: Remove both nuts from the footswitch and mount the footswitch.
Orient the footswitch so that the flat sides of the solder lugs are like the
diagram below.
NOTE: There are no actual number markings on the footswitch. There are
two correct ways you can orient the footswitch. They are both 180 degrees
of each other. Either way is fine. It does not matter as long as the flat sides
of the solder lugs are running horizontal, not vertical.

FOOT SWITCH SOLDER LUG DESIGNATIONS

Wiring
FLIP PCB OVER!!!
STEP 1: Wire the PCB as shown in the diagram below. Make all
connections to the back side of the PCB and solder on the top (screen
printed) side of the PCB. Make the wires as short as possible but allow
enough length so that if you need to do any trouble shooting later, you will
be able to do so without having to remove all the enclosure mounted
components.

Step 2: Once the AC jack, potentiometer, and IN/OUT jacks are wired,
insert the LED in its hole. Insert the long lead into the square hole!!! You
might want to slightly bend the leads away from each other to keep them in
the holes for now. DO NOT SOLDER YET

Step 3: Flip the PCB right-side-up, tuck the wires into the enclosure, and
place the PCB onto the footswitch. DO NOT SOLDER YET!!!!!
It is extremely important that when you place the PCB on the
footswitch, you make sure to tuck all the wires out of the way
so that that PCB can rest flush against the enclosed jacks and
footswitch.
Step 4: Solder ONLY 1 of the footswitch lugs.
Your PCB should be recessed inside the enclosure about 1cm. It should be
level.
Some of your components may be sticking up out of the enclosure just a bit,
particularly the film capacitors. This is to be expected. This is OK. The lid
has a deep recess.
If you need to adjust the position of the PCB so that it fits correctly, reheat
the single solder joint you just made on the footswitch. Adjust the position
of the PCB while the keeping the solder joint hot. Remove the heat and hold
the PCB in position while allowing the solder joint to cool completely.
Now solder the rest of the footswitch lugs.