BYOC Tweed Royal User manual

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Build Your Own Clone
Tweed
Royal
Kit
Instructions
(revision 1.0.2)
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WARNING!!! HIGH VOLTAGE!!!!
Tube amplifiers contain high voltage that can cause injury and even death. Please use extreme caution and common sense when
building this kit. Do not attempt to do anything to your amp while it is plugged in other than take voltage readings as necessary or
actually playing an instrument through it as it was intended.
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Don't just turn the power off!!! Always unplug the power cord from the socket before working on your amp!!! The mains supply can
still electrocute you AND the power filter capacitors can still retain a charge powerful enough to kill you. Always unplug the power
cord from the socket before working on your amp.

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DISCLAIMER
Build at your own risk!!! BYOC, Inc. is not liable or responsible for any damages, injuries, or deaths that may incur from or while
building this kit. It is your own responsibility to follow proper safety precautions. Never attempt to build, modify, repair, or perform
any sort of maintenance on your amplifier while the power cord is plugged into an AC power source.
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This kit contains only the amplifier chassis. It is intended to be housed in a non-conductive, electrically insulated cabinet or enclosure.
This kit does not come with any such cabinet or enclosure and is not intended to be used without one. It is your responsibility to
house this amplifier kit in a proper cabinet or enclosure before attempting to use it.
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Warranty:
BYOC, Inc. guarantees that your kit will be complete and that all parts and components will arrive as described, functioning
and free of defect. Soldering, clipping, cutting, stripping, or using any of the components in anyway voids this
guarantee. BYOC, Inc. guarantees that the instructions for your kit will be free of any majors errors that would cause you
to permanently damage any components in your kit, but does not guarantee that the instructions will be free of typos or
minor errors. BYOC, Inc. does not warranty the completed kit as a whole functioning unit, nor do we warranty any of the
individual parts once they have been used. If you have a component that is used, but feel it was defective prior to you using it,
we reserve the right to determine whether or not the component was faulty upon arrival. Please direct all warranty issues to:
[email protected] This would include any missing parts issues.
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Return:
BYOC, Inc. accepts returns and exchanges on all products for any reason, as long as they are unused. We do not accept partial kit
returns. Returns and exchanges are for the full purchase price less the cost of shipping and/or any promotional pricing. Return
shipping is the customer’s responsibility. This responsibility not only includes the cost of shipping, but accountability of deliver as
well. Please contact [email protected] to receive a return authorization before mailing.
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Tech Support:
BYOC, Inc. makes no promises or guarantees that you will successfully complete your kit in a satisfactory manor. Nor does BYOC,
Inc. promise or guarantee that you will receive any technical support. Purchasing a product from BYOC, Inc. does not entitle you to
any amount of technical support. BYOC, Inc. does not promise or guarantee that any technical support you may receive will be able

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to resolve any or all issues you may be experiencing.
That being said, we will do our best to help you as much as we can. Our philosophy at BYOC is that we will help you only as much
as you are willing to help yourself. We have a wonderful and friendly DIY discussion forum with an entire section devoted to the
technical support and modifications of BYOC kits.
www.buildyourownclone.com/board
When posting a tech support thread on the BYOC forum, please post it in the correct lounge, and please title your thread
appropriately. If everyone titles their threads “HELP!”, then it makes it impossible for the people who are helping you to keep track
of your progress. A very brief description of your specific problem will do. It will also make it easier to see if someone else is having
or has had the same problem as you. The question you are about to ask may already be answered. Here is a list of things that you
should include in the body of your tech support thread:
1. A detailed explanation of what the problem is. (not just, “It doesn’t work, help”)
2. Photo that clearly shows your circuit board.
3. Photo that clearly shows the tube-side of inside of the chassis.
4. Photo that clearly shows the inside of the front of the chassis.
5. Photo that clearly shows your wiring going from the circuit board to the pots and any other switches (only if your kit has non-PC
mounted pots and switches).
6. Does the indicator light come on?
Also, please only post photos that are in focus. You're only wasting both parties' time if you post out of focus, low-resolution photos
from your cell phone.
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Credits:
Written by: J. O’Mealey & K. Vonderhulls
Artwork by: J. O’Mealey & K. Vonderhulls
Edited by: R. Matthews & K. Vonderhulls
Revision Notes:
Rev 1.0.1 current: typos, artwork, and editing errors from 1.0 corrected.
Rev 1.0.2 current: Changed orange cloth wire to blue cloth wire.
Copyrights:
All material in this document is copyrighted 2012 by BYOC, Inc.

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TWEED ROYAL KIT
INSTRUCTION INDEX
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Parts Checklist………………………………..............…….....page 5 - 8
Populating the Circuit Board (top side)...………...................page 9 –
25
Populating the Circuit Board (under side)………………….page 26 -
49
Chassis Build
Up………………………………………….…..page 50 - 93
Adding the Circuit
Board........................….............................page 94 - 118
Wiring the S.E./standby/P.P. Switch…....................................page 119 –
132
Heater
Wiring………………………………………………….page 133 - 141
Finishing
Up……………………………………………….…..page 142 – 144
Turning Your Amp on for the First Time…………………..page 145 –
149
Operating
Overview…………………………………………..page 150 - 152
Diagrams and
Schematic……………………………………..page 153 - 157

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Parts Checklist for Tweed Royal Kit
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Resistors:
1/2watt carbon composition:
1 – 820 ohm (gray/red/brown/gold) *this is an extra part for modification
5 - 1k5 (brown/green/red/gold) *there is one extra for modification
1 – 2k2 (red/red/red/gold)
1 - 22k (red/red/orange/gold)
2 - 56k (green/blue/orange/gold)
4 - 68k (blue/gray/orange/gold)
3 - 100k (brown/black/yellow/gold)
2 - 220k (red/red/yellow/gold)
3 - 1M (brown/black/green/gold)
2watt metal oxide:
2 – 470Ω(yellow/purple/brown/gold or it will just say “470”) *these are extras for modification
1 – 4k7 (yellow/purple/red/gold or it will just say “4k7”)
1 - 22k (red/red/orange/gold or it will just say “22k”)
5watt wire wound:
2 - 470ohm(large white block says “470” on it)
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Capacitors:
1 – 470pf ceramic disc or silver mica
1 – 0.0047uf axial leaded film
1 - .022uf axial leaded film

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4 - .1uf axial leaded film
3 - 16uf/475v axial leaded aluminum electrolytic
3 - 25uf/25v axial leaded aluminum electrolytic
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Potentiometers: Be sure to snap off or bend the small tab on the side of each panel mounted pot.
1 - A1M w/SPST switch
1 – 250k w/SPDT switch
2 – A1M
1 – Rotary 4POL/3POS
1 – ON/OFF SPST Toggle switch
4 - Black chicken head knob
1 - Cream chicken head knob
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Hardware:
1 - Chassis
1 - Circuit board

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2 - Circuit board standoffs w/matching screws and nuts(M3 size thread)
3 - 8 pin tube sockets w/retainer
2 - 9 pin tube socket w/shield
1 - 1/4” mono w/ nut, flat washer and lock washer
4 - 1/4” mono shorting jacks (switchcraft 12A) w/ nut, flat washer and lock washer
1 - Lamp (bayonet style #47 6.3v)
1 - Lamp holder
1 - Lamp jewel
1 - 6' 3-conductor power cord
1 - Power cord socket
1 - Panel mounted fuse holder
1 - Fuse (3AG 2amp slow-blow)
3 - Rubber Grommets
6 - #4 screw
6 - #4 nut
6 - #4 split ring lock washer
10 - 6/32 x 3/8” screw
10 - 6/32 nut
10 - #6 internal lock washer
2 - Wire nuts
2 - #8 Internal lock washer/Solder terminals
4 - #8 nuts
2 - #8 internal lock washers
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Wire:
NOTE: If your kit comes with push-back cloth wire, you do not need to strip the wire prior to soldering. Ignore the directions when
they tell you to strip the wire. Just simply cut the wire to length and then slide the cover back to reveal enough conductor to make
your solder connection. After soldering, push the cover back into place. We try to supply push-back wire whenever possible, but
supplies at this time are sporadic. You can tell push-back cloth covered wire from regular cloth covered wire because the regular wire
will still have PVC insulation under the cloth cover. Push-back wire will always have either solid core conductor or stranded
conductor that is so thoroughly tinned that it can appear solid, and it will never have an inner PVC coating.

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4’ – Green 18AWG or 22AWG
4' - White 20AWG
1' - Black 20AWG
4' - Yellow 20AWG
4' - Brown 20AWG
1' - Red 20AWG
6” – Blue 20AWG
1' - Bare Bus
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Tubes (optional):
2 - 12AX7/ECC83 (JJ/Tesla)
2 - 6V6 (JJ/Tesla)
1 - 5Y3 (JJ/Tesla)
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Transformers:
1 – BYOC-TRPT
1 – BYOC-TROT1
1 – BYOC-TROT2

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Populating the Circuit Board
(top side)
A note before you get started: Follow the order of these instructions. Some of the components need
to be ”layered” in a certain order. It will make it much easier when you get to the underside of the
circuit board.
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Step 1 - Add the brass standoffs. Do not solder anything yet.

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Step 2: Add the bare bus wire. Do not solder anything yet.

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Step 3: Add the 25uf capacitor. The capacitor is polarized. It is EXTREMELY important that you orient these
correctly. The positive end with be labeled with a “+” symbol. The positive end will also have an indentation
around it. Again, do not solder anything yet. Add the 470Ωresistor to the same terminal lugs as the 25uf cap.

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Step 4: Next, place the 2watt 4.7k and 22k resistors as shown. Install the three 16uf capacitors. Again, the
capacitors are polarized. It is EXTREMELY important that you orient these correctly. The positive end with be
labeled with a “+” symbol. The positive end will also have an indentation around it and should be installed with
the resistors.

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Step 5:
Cut a 2.5” piece of the black 22 gauge wire, strip an 1/8” of cover off each end. Place one end into terminal
end
with
the 16uf cap, as shown in photo above. Next, cut a 4” piece of both brown wire and white wire. Strip a 1/8” of
cover off each end of both wires. Insert the white wire into the terminal lug with the 25uf cap/470Ωresistor. Insert
the brown wire into the terminal lug where the 4.7k/22k resistors & 16uf cap are installed. It may be necessary to
curve the brown wire end and hookonto side of the terminal lug should it not fit into it. Solder points highlighted
with green arrows; do not solder points highlighted with red arrows.

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Step 6: Install the 1.5k, 56k, and 1M resistors as shown.

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Step 7: Install the first 0.1uf capacitor and the two 220k resistors as shown above.

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Step 8: Cut a 2.5” piece of the yellow 20 gauge wire, strip an 1/8” of cover off both end, and insert one end into the
terminal post with the 1M resistor. Then, cut a 3” piece of the white 22 gauge wire, strip 1/8” off each end, and insert one
end into the terminal post with 1.5k resistor & 0.1uf cap.
Solder points highlighted by green arrows; do not solder points highlighted by red arrows, as shown in photo
below.

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Step 9: Install the second 0.1uf capacitor, the 0.022uf capacitor, and the 56k, and 100k resistors as shown.

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Step 10: Cut a 2.5” piece of the yellow wire, strip an 1/8” of cover off both end, and insert one end into the terminal post
with the 100k resistor & 0.022 cap. Then, cut a 3” piece of the brown wire, strip 1/8” off each end, and insert one end into
the terminal post with 56k resistor & 0.1uf cap.
Solder points highlighted by green arrows; do not solder points highlighted by red arrows, as shown in photo
above.

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Step 11: Add the 1.5k resistor and the third 0.1uf capacitor as shown

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Step 12: Next, add two of the 68k and two 100k resistors, as shown.