BYOC Crown Jewel Manual

Build Your Own Clone
Crown Jewel
Kit Instructions
Warranty:
BYOC, Inc. guarantees that your kit will be complete and that all parts and components
will arrive as described, functioning and free of defect. Soldering, clipping, cutting,
stripping, or using any of the components in any way voids this guarantee. BYOC, INC
guarantees that the instructions for your kit will be free of any majors errors that would
cause you to permanently damage any components in your kit, but does not guarantee
that the instructions will be free of typos or minor errors. BYOC, INC does not
warranty the completed pedal as a whole functioning unit, nor do we warranty any of the
individual parts once they have been used. If you have a component that is used, but feel
it was defective prior to you using it, we reserve the right to determine whether or not the
component was faulty upon arrival. Please direct all warranty issues to:
[email protected] This would include any missing parts issues.
Return:
BYOC, Inc. accepts returns and exchanges on all products for any reason, as long as they
are unused. We do not accept partial kit returns. Returns and exchanges are for the full
purchase price less the cost of shipping and/or any promotional pricing. Return shipping
is the customer’s responsibility. This responsibility not only includes the cost of
shipping, but accountability of deliver as well. Please contact
[email protected] to receive a return authorization before mailing.
Tech Support:
BYOC, Inc. makes no promises or guarantees that you will successfully complete your
kit in a satisfactory manor. Nor does BYOC, Inc. promise or guarantee that you will
receive any technical support. Purchasing a product from BYOC, Inc. does not entitle

you to any amount of technical support. BYOC, Inc. does not promise or guarantee that
any technical support you may receive will be able to resolve any or all issues you may
be experiencing.
That being said, we will do our best to help you as much as we can. Our philosophy at
BYOC is that we will help you only as much as you are willing to help yourself. We
have a wonderful and friendly DIY discussion forum with an entire section devoted to the
technical support and modifications of BYOC kits.
www.byocelectronics.com/board
When posting a tech support thread on the BYOC forum, please post it in the correct
lounge, and please title your thread appropriately. If everyone titles their threads
“HELP!” then it makes it impossible for the people who are helping you to keep track of
your progress. A very brief description of your specific problem will do. It will also
make it easier to see if someone else is having or has had the same problem as you. The
question you are about to ask may already be answered. Here is a list of things that you
should include in the body of your tech support thread:
1. A detailed explanation of what the problem is. (more than, “It doesn’t work, help”)
2. Pic of the topside of your PCB.
3. Pic of the underside of your PCB.
4. Pic that clearly shows your footswitch/jack wiring and the wires going to the PCB
5. A pic that clearly shows your wiring going from the PCB to the pots and any other
switches (only if your kit has non-PC mounted pots and switches)
6. Is bypass working?
7. Does the LED come on?
8. If you answered yes to 6 and 7, what does the pedal do when it is in the "on" position?
9. Battery or adapter (if battery, is it good? If adapter, what type?)
Also, please only post photos that are in focus.
Copyrights:
All material in this document is copyrighted 2017 by BYOC, Inc.

Crown Jewel
Kit Instruction Index
Parts Checklist……………………….................…....page 6
Populating the Circuit Board…….................…...…..page 8
Main PCB Assembly..................................................page 17
Wiring……………………………….........................page 20
Operation Overview...................................................page 26
Schematic....................................................................page 27

This is what your kit should look like when it’s complete. Your kit may come with
different color capacitors, switches ect. Don’t be alarmed by this. They all still do
the exact same thing.

Parts Checklist for the Crown Jewel Kit
Resistors: (Metal Film (5 Bands) / Carbon Film (4 Bands))
2 - 220R/221 (Red/Red/Black/Black/Brown) / (Red/Red/Brown/Brown)
2 - 470R/471 (Yellow/Purple/Black/Black/Brown) / (Yellow/Purple/Brown/Brown)
8 - 1k/102 (Brown/Black/Black/Brown/Brown) / (Brown/Black/Red/Brown)
3 - 2k2/222 (Red/Red/Black/Brown/Brown) / (Red/Red/Red/Brown)
2 - 3k3/332 (Orange/Orange/Black/Brown/Brown) / (Orange/Orange/Red/Brown)
9 - 10k/103 (Brown/Black/Black/Red/Brown) / (Brown/Black/Orange/Brown)
1 - 22k /223 (Red/Red/Black/Red/Brown) / (Red/Red/Orange/Brown)
6 - 33k/333 (Orange/Orange/Black/Red/Brown) / (Orange/Orange/Orange/Brown)
1 - 100k/104 (Brown/Black/Black/Orange/Brown) / (Brown/Black/Yellow/Brown)
1 - 330k/334 (Orange/Orange/Black/Orange/Brown) / (Orange/Orange/Yellow/Brown)
2 - 1M/105 (Brown/Black/Black/Yellow/Brown) / (Brown/Black/Green/Brown)
Visit www.byocelectronics.com/resistorcodes.pdf for more information on how to
differentiate resistors.
Capacitors:
1 - 33p ceramic disc cap (may say “33” on the body)
2 - 100p ceramic disc cap (may say “101” on the body)
1 - .0056u/5n6 film cap (may say “562” on the body)
2 - .01u/10n film cap (may say “103” on the body)
1 - .015u/15n film cap (may say “153” on the body)
1 - .022u/22n film cap (may say “223” on the body)
2 - .047u/47n film cap (may say “473” on the body)
1 - .068u/68n film cap (may say “683” on the body)
4 - .1u/100n film cap (may say “104” on the body)
2 - .22u/220n film cap (may say “224” on the body)
6 - 1u film caps (may say “105” on the body)
4 - 10uf Aluminum Electrolytic
4 - 47uf Aluminum Electrolytic
1 - 100uf Aluminum Electrolytic
Visit www.byocelectronics.com/capcodes.pdf for more info on how to differentiate
capacitors.
Diodes:
1 - 4.3v Zener diode (orange with a black stripe. May say 4.3, may say 229b, but will
never say 4148)
1 - 1N4001 diode (black body with white stripe. Will say ‘4001’ on the body)
2 - 1n5817 diodes (black body with white stripe. Will say ‘5817’ on the body)
5 - 1N4148 diodes (small orange with black stripe. Will say ‘4148’ or ‘1N914’ on body)
2 - D9D or similar Germanium Diodes (Clear body diode with either one stripe or two
stripes)
2 - Red LED
IC's:
1 - TL072
1 - 4558

1 - 12F609
1 - 1054 Charge Pump
4 - DIP8 sockets
Transistors:
1 - 78L05
4 - 2N3904
2 - BS170
Relays:
2 - TQ2-5V Relays
Potentiometers: SNAP OFF THE SMALL TABS ON THE TOP OF THE POTS OFF WITH A
PAIR OF NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS. IF#YOUR#POTS#HAVE#COVERS,#REMOVE#THEM#BEFORE#
CONTINUING.#YOU#MIGHT#HAVE#TO#CUT#A#SLIT#IN#THE#COVER#WITH#A#BLADE#AND#USE#A#
SMALL#SCREWDRIVER#TO#GET#LEVERAGE.
2 - A100k (LEVEL)
1 - A500k (DRIVE)
3 - B100k (BASS, MID, TREB)
1 - C10k (PRESENCE)
1 - C100k Dual Gang (MID FREQ)
Hardware:
1 - predrilled enclosure w/ 4 screws
1 - Crown Jewel Printed Circuit Board
2 - momentary footswitch
1 - 3PDT Toggle
1 - SPDT on-on Toggle
3 - SPDT on-off-on Toggle
2 - 1X4 Header socket
2 - Enclosed jacks
4 - rubber bumpers
2 - lock washers (for in and out jacks)
hook-up wire

Populating the Circuit Board
Step 1: Add all the resistors. Resistors are not polarized and can be inserted into the PCB
in either direction, meaning you don’t have to worry about orienting them.

Your kit will come with mostly 1/8 watt resistors. If you receive ¼watt resistors,
simply bend them so the body is vertical on the PCB. Below is an example

Step 2: Add the header sockets.

Step 3: Add the diodes. Be sure to match the end of the diode with the stripe
to the layout on the PCB. The striped end should go in the square solder pad.
The diode highlighted in red is the black body 1N4001. The diodes
highlighted in purple are the 1n5817 diodes. The diodes highlighted in
are the 1N914 or 1N4148 diodes. The diode highlighted in is the
4.3v Zener diode. This diode will look like a 4148, but will never say
‘4148’ on the body. The diodes highlighted in are the Germanium
diodes. If your Germanium diodes have two stripes, the white stripe will go
into the square hole.

Step 4:Add the IC sockets. Be sure to align the notch on the IC sockets with the notch on
the PCB screenprint.

Step 6: Add the relays. Be sure to orient them correctly. The relay will have a line on one
end of the body indicating the side where pin 1 and pin 8 are. Place the relays so the
stripe side is on the notch on the PCB screenprint.

Step 7: Add the two clipping LEDs. Be sure to orient them according to the PCB. The
longer lead will go into the square hole. Insert these on the underside of the PCB.

Step 8: Add the transistors. Be sure to match the flat side of the transistor with the flat
side of the transistor on PCB layout. Red outline is 2N3904, blue outline is 78L05, and
the yellow outline is for the BS170s. Insert the 2n3904 highlighted in green on the
underside of the PCB, also remember to make it so the rounded edge is facing
towards the clipping LEDs like the highlighted outline. If you place it on top of the
board, use the screenprinted lines as your guide.

Step 9: Add the film and ceramic disc capacitors. These are non-polarized so they can go
in either direction. The ceramic disc capacitors are highlighted in yellow, and are also
non-polarized. Insert the capacitors highlighted in green on the underside of the PCB.

Step 10: Add the aluminum electrolytic capacitors. These ARE polarized, meaning
there is a positive and negative end. The positive side will have a longer lead and goes in
the square solder pad. The negative side will have a shorter lead and a stripe running
along the body of the cap, and goes in the round solder pad. Insert the capacitor
highlighted in green on the underside of the PCB.

Main PCB Assembly
Step 1: Prepare the footswitches. Cut four 3 inch pieces of wire and solder
them to the footswitches as shown.

Step 2: Install the footswitches in the enclosure. Orient the footswitches so
the solder lugs are facing each other

Step 3: Flip the PCB over so that the bottom or solder side is up. Insert the
potentiometers, toggle switches, and the LEDs into the bottom side of the
PCB. If#your#pots#have#covers,#remove#them#before#continuing.#You#might#
have#to#cut#a#slit#in#the#cover#with#a#blade#and#use#a#small#screwdriver#to#get#
leverage. DO NOT SOLDER ANYTHING YET!!!
The LEDs will have one lead that is longer than the other. THIS WILL GO
INTO THE SQUARE SOLDER HOLE.
Pro Tip: Be sure to remove the nuts, washers, and tabs from the potentiometers, both nuts and all
washers from the 3PDT switch, and the top nut, lock washer, and notch washers from the other
toggle switches.
When placing the potentiometers for enclosure installment, it sometimes helps to solder the
middle lug of the pots, allowing about a 1mm gap between the PCB and thick part of the
potentiometer lug. This allows rigidity of the pots, as well as giving a little “wiggle room”. After
you have your board installed, hand tighten the potentiometers and switches, and carefully reflow
the middle lugs of the pots to allow the board to settle. After the board has settled, you can solder
the rest of the pot and switch lugs.

Step 4: Hold the PCB in one hand so that the component side of the PCB is
in the palm of your hand and the bottom side with the pots, toggle switch
and LED is facing up. Now use your other hand to guide the predrilled
enclosure onto the PCB assembly so that the pots, toggle switch and LED all
go into their respective holes. Once the PCB assembly is in place, secure it
by screwing on the washers and nuts for the pots. Only tighten them with
your fingers. You do not want them very tight yet. Make sure you’ve
removed the nuts and washers from the pots and that you’ve also snapped
the tabs off the pots as well before installing.
Step 4: Turn the entire pedal over so that the component side of the PCB is
facing up. Lift the PCB up off the pots about 2mm just to make sure that the
back of the PCB does not short out against the pots. Make sure the PCB is
level and symmetrically seated inside the enclosure.
Step 5: Solder the pots, toggle switch and LEDs. You will be soldering on
the component side (top) of the PCB. After you have soldered them in
place, be sure to tighten up their nuts. TIP: only solder one lug of each
component at first. This will secure everything in place and still allow you
to wiggle things around if you need to adjust the fit of anything. Once you
have everything perfect, go ahead and solder everything else.