Carl Goldberg Models SOPHISTICATED LADY User manual

READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS
AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.
WARRANTY
Carl Goldberg Products guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date
of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall
Carl Goldberg’s liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Carl Goldberg reserves the right
to change or modify this warranty without notice.
In that Carl Goldberg has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be
assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By
the act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is
advised to return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.
To make a warranty claim Hobby Services
send the defective part 3002 N. Apollo Dr., Suite 1
or item to Hobby Services Champaign, IL 61822 USA
at this address: [phone] Ext. 5
Include a letter stating your name, return shipping address, as much contact information as possible (daytime
telephone number, fax number, e-mail address), a detailed description of the problem and a photocopy of the
purchase receipt. Upon receipt of the package, the problem will be evaluated as quickly as possible.
www.carlgoldbergproducts.com
™
Wingspan: 78 in [1980mm]
Wing Area: 674 sq in [43.5 dm2]
Weight: 27–30 oz. [765–850 g]
Wing Loading: 5.8–6.4 oz/sq ft [17.7–19.5 g/dm2]
Length: 41-3/4 in [1060mm]
Radio: 2-channel with standard servos

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TABLE OF CONTENTS
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED ...................2
Radio Equipment ..............................2
Hardware and Accessories ......................2
Adhesives and Building Supplies ..................2
Optional Supplies and Tools......................2
PREPARATION .................................2
ASSEMBLE THE WING ...........................3
INSTALL THE FIN ...............................3
INSTALL THE STABILIZER ........................5
INSTALL THE RADIO SYSTEM ....................5
FINISH THE SAILPLANE..........................8
Canopy Installation.............................8
Apply the Decals .............................10
GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY .................11
Check the Control Directions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Set the Control Throws.........................11
Balance the Model (C.G.).......................12
Balance the Model Laterally.....................13
CHECKING FOR WARPS ........................13
PREFLIGHT ...................................13
Identify Your Model ............................13
Charge the Batteries ..........................13
Ground Check & Range Check ..................14
AMA SAFETY CODE............................14
General ....................................14
Radio Control ................................14
CHECK LIST ..................................14
FLYING.......................................15
Mount the Wing ..............................15
Trim Flights..................................15
Your First Hi-Start Launches ....................16
First Flights..................................16
Thermal Flying ...............................16
Facts About Thermals .........................16
Thermal Soaring .............................17
POINTERS FOR CONTEST FLYING................17
Ballasting ...................................18
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED
RADIO EQUIPMENT
The Sophisticated Lady ARF requires a two-channel radio
system with standard size servos. The following servos are
recommended. A square receiver battery or a small flat
receiver battery is required to fit the narrow fuselage.
(2) Futaba®S-3003 Standard Servo (FUTM0031)
(1) HydriMax™1400mAh NiMH flat receiver battery
(HCAM6306)
HARDWARE AND ACCESSORIES
Following is additional hardware and accessories required
to finish the Sophisticated Lady ARF. Order numbers are
provided in parentheses.
1/4" Foam Rubber (GPMQ1000)
#64 Rubber Bands (HCAQ2020)
ADHESIVES AND BUILDING SUPPLIES
In addition to common household and hobby tools, this
is the “short list” of the most important items required to
assemble the Sophisticated Lady ARF. Great Planes Pro™
CA glue is recommended.
Thin CA (1/2 oz. [15g] Thin Pro CA, GPMR6001)
Medium CA (1/2 oz. [15g] Medium Pro CA+,
GPMR6007)
6-minute Pro Epoxy (4oz [113.4g] GPMR6042)
30-minute Pro Epoxy (4oz [113.4g] GPMR6043)
Mixing Sticks (GPMR8055)
Epoxy Brushes (GPMR8060)
Epoxy Mixing Cups (GPMR8056)
Paper Towels
Masking Tape
CA applicator tips (HCAR3780)
Threadlocker thread locking cement (GPMR6060)
#11 blades (5-pack, HCAR0211)
#1 Hobby knife (HCAR0105)
#44 or 3/32" [2.4mm] drill bit
Denatured Alcohol
Wax Paper
Needle-nose Pliers
OPTIONAL SUPPLIES AND TOOLS
Here is a list of optional tools mentioned in the manual that
will help you build the Sophisticated Lady ARF.
Stick–on segmented lead weight (GPMQ4485)
Hobby paints/paint brushes for painting the pilot
CA debonder (GPMR60390
CG Machine™(GPMR2400)
RC 56 Canopy Glue
High Start (DYFP8305)
A model airplane covering iron with a protective covering
sock may also be necessary to retighten the covering
and remove any wrinkles that may have formed after the
model was originally covered at the factory. If you don’t
already have a covering iron, the 21st Century®sealing iron
(COVR2700) and the 21st Century iron cover (COVR2702)
are recommended.

3
PREPARATION
1. Lay three or four paper towels over each other and cut
the stack into small squares. The small paper towel squares,
dampened with denatured alcohol, will come in handy for
epoxy cleanup and other general cleanup during assembly.
2. Remove the masking tape holding all the control
surfaces to their main parts. If necessary, clean off any
residual tape glue with a couple of your paper towel squares
dampened with naptha (lighter fluid).
3. Using a sealing iron, remove any wrinkles in the
covering before assembly.
ASSEMBLE THE WING
1. Using 220-grit sandpaper, remove any excess glue
from the sides, top and bottom of the aluminum and plywood
wing joiner. Clean the wing joiner with denatured alcohol and
a paper towel.
2. Check the fit of the wing joiner in the wing panels.
Remove any excess material from the joiner to allow the
panels to fit together. Gather everything required for gluing
the wing joiner and wing together including, 30-minute
epoxy, mixing sticks, epoxy brush, 12" [304mm] long dowel
or wire, denatured alcohol and paper towels. Mix up 1/2
oz. [14.8cc] of 30-minute epoxy. Working quickly, pour a
generous amount into the joiner pocket of one wing half.
Use your wire or dowel to thoroughly distribute the epoxy,
coating all surfaces inside the joiner pocket. Coat the root
rib and one half of the wing joiner that goes into the wing.
Insert the joiner in the wing. Coat the joiner pocket in the
other wing half and the other end of the wing joiner. Join the
wing halves together. Then, stand the wing on end with one
of the wing tips resting on the floor. Use a piece of R/C foam
or something similar to cushion and stabilize the wing so it
won’t slide around. Hold the two wing halves together with
masking tape. Wipe off any excess epoxy with a paper towel
dampened with denatured alcohol.

4
INSTALL THE FIN
1. Use a felt tip pin to draw a centerline on the top aft end
of the fuselage. Draw a line 3/32" [2.4mm] on both sides of
the centerline.
2. Using a hobby knife with a fresh blade, cut and
remove the covering only between the two outside lines.
DO NOT cut the wood under the covering as this will
weaken the structure.
3. Insert the elevator control cable into the nylon outer
control tube in the fuselage and the fin. Position the fin on the
fuselage and move the cable to check that it moves freely.
4. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the fin to the top of the
fuselage. Wipe off the excess epoxy with a paper towel
dampened with rubbing alcohol. Use masking tape to hold
the fin in position, aligned with the centerline of the fuselage
and parallel to the sides.
Drill a 3/32" Hole
1/2" Deep, in the Center
of the Hinge Slot
5. Drill a 3/32" [2.4mm] hole, 1/2" [13mm] deep, in the
center of the fin and rudder hinge slots. If you use a Dremel®
Rotary Tool for this task, it will result in a cleaner hole than if
you use a slower speed drill. Drilling the hole will twist some
of the wood fibers into the slot, making it difficult to insert the
hinge. Insert a hobby knife blade in the slot, working it back
and forth a few times to clean out the slot.
Temporary Pin
to Keep Hinge
Centered
6. To keep the hinges centered, insert a pin in the center
of the hinges.

5
7. Insert three hinges in the rudder and attach the rudder to
the fin. Remove the pins, making sure there is approximately
a 1/64" [0.4mm] gap between the rudder and fin.
Assemble, then Apply 6 Drops
of Thin CA to the Center of
the Hinge, on Both Sides
8. Deflect the rudder 1-1/2" [38mm] in one direction and
apply six drops of thin CA to the center of the hinges. Deflect
the rudder in the other direction and again apply six drops
of thin CA to the center of the hinges. Use a paper towel to
absorb excess CA from the hinge gap before it hardens. Do
not use CA accelerator. Allow the CA to harden slowly.
INSTALL THE STABILIZER
1. Draw a centerline on the bottom of the stabilizer. Draw
a line 3/32" [2.4mm] on each side of the centerline. Use a
hobby knife to cut and remove the covering only between the
two outside lines. DO NOT cut the wood under the covering
as this will weaken the stabilizer, causing it to fail.
2. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the stabilizer to the
top of the fin. Use a square to check that the stabilizer is
perpendicular to the fin.
3. Position the two stabilizer supports under the stabilizer
against the fin. Mark the outline of the supports on the fin
and stabilizer. Use a sharp hobby knife to trim and remove
the covering 1/16" [1.5mm] inside the outline.
4. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the stabilizer supports to
the fin and stabilizer.
5. Install the elevator using the same hinging method
used on the rudder.

6
INSTALL THE RADIO SYSTEM
1. Cut the back plate from one of the nylon control horns.
Thread a nylon clevis 14 turns onto the 2-56 metal pushrod.
Slide a silicone clevis retainer over the end of the clevis.
Attach the clevis in the third hole from the bottom of the
control horn.
Hinge Line Hinge Line
CORRECT INCORRECT
2. Use a sharp hobby knife to remove the covering from
the end of the rudder guide tube. Insert the pushrod into the
rudder pushrod guide tube. Position the control horn on the
rudder so that the four holes in the control horn are aligned
with the hinge line. Drill two 3/32" [2.4mm] holes through
the rudder using the control horn as a guide. Remove the
control horn and harden the holes by applying two or three
drops of thin CA in each hole. After the CA has cured, attach
the control horn to the rudder using two 2-56 x 3/8" [9.5mm]
screws and the control horn back plate.
3. Use a #44 or 3/32" [2.4mm] drill bit to enlarge the outer
hole in the second nylon control horn.
4. Insert the quick connector through the previously
drilled hole in the control horn. Install a 2mm washer on the
quick connector. Put a drop of threadlocker on the threads
and secure the quick connector with a 2mm thumb nut.
Tighten the nut and then slowly back it off until the quick
connector rotates freely. The threadlocker will prevent the
nut from coming loose.
5. Slide the elevator cable through the hole in the quick
connector and position the elevator control horn so that the
four holes are aligned with the elevator hinge line. Use a felt
tipped pen to mark the location of the holes.

7
6. Drill two 3/32" [2.4mm] holes through the elevator using
the control horn as a guide. Remove the control horn and
harden the holes by applying two or three drops of thin CA
in each hole. After the CA has hardened, attach the control
horn to the elevator using two 2-56 x 3/8" [9.5mm] screws
and the control horn back plate.
Servo
Grommet
Brass Eyelet
Servo Tray
Screw
7. Install the servos using the hardware included with
your radio system. Again, apply a couple of drops of thin CA
to harden the screw holes.
8. Wrap the receiver and receiver battery in 1/4" [6.4mm]
thick foam. Position the receiver and receiver battery in the
fuselage as shown. Remove the receiver switch cover from
the receiver switch. Position the switch cover on the outside
of the fuselage, between the receiver and receiver battery.
Mark the two mounting screw holes and the switch opening
on the fuselage. Use a sharp hobby knife to cut out the switch
opening and a 3/32" [2.4mm] drill bit to drill out the screw
holes. Mount the receiver switch on the inside of the fuselage
with the switch cover on the outside.
9. Switch on the transmitter and receiver. Center the
elevator and rudder trims on the transmitter. Remove the
servo arm screw and position the servo arm so that it is

8
perpendicular to the centerline of the servo. Cut the servo
arm so it does not touch the fuselage side approximately
7/16" [11.1mm] from the center of the arm. Remove the
unused arms and reinstall the servo arm. Reinstall the servo
arm screw. With the rudder centered, rudder is aligned with
the fin, mark the pushrod wire at the servo arm.
10. Bend the wire up at the mark. Cut the wire 5/16"
[7.9mm] above the bend. Secure the pushrod to the servo
arm with a nylon FasLink™ . Make sure the FasLink does not
hit the fuselage side or bind against the servo arm.
11. Slide the two plywood outer pushrod tube supports
over the elevator outer pushrod tube.
12. Center the elevator servo. Trim a servo arm to fit
perpendicular to the elevator servo. Remove the other
unused servo arms.
13. Install a quick connector on the elevator servo arm
following the same procedure used to install it on the elevator
control horn.
14. Install the servo arm on the elevator servo. Route the
elevator cable through the quick connector on the elevator
control horn and the elevator servo arm. Apply a drop of
threadlocker on a 3x 5mm machine screw.Install the machine
screw in the quick connector on the elevator control horn and
tighten it against the elevator cable.
15. Use CA to glue the two plywood elevator outer tube
supports in the slots in the fuselage side.

9
16. Center the elevator servo arm and the elevator. Apply
a drop of threadlocker on a 3x 5mm machine screw. Install
the machine screw in the quick connector on the elevator
servo arm and tighten it against the elevator cable. Trim off
the excess cable.
17. Route the receiver antenna under the servos and
to the back of the wing saddle. Insert the antenna in the
provided antenna tube inside the aft end of the fuselage.
FINISH THE SAILPLANE
1. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the nylon tail skid on the aft
bottom of the fuselage.
2. Remove the covering from over the wing dowel holes.
Center the wing dowels in the fuselage. Use thin CA to glue
them in position.
CANOPY INSTALLATION
1. Use thin CA to glue the small hardwood dowel into the
front canopy brace so that it protrudes out approximately
3/8" [9.5mm].
2. Place a piece of wax paper in the cockpit opening.
Center the canopy base on the fuselage. Insert the dowel
in the front canopy base into the fuselage and position
the aft canopy brace, centered on the canopy base. Use
medium CA to glue the forward and aft canopy braces to
the canopy base.

10
3. Use CA to glue the plastic cockpit to the canopy braces
and base. Trim the cockpit so that it is flush with the canopy
braces and base.
4. Paint the cockpit with the color scheme of your choice.
Test the paint on a piece of plastic that was cut off of the
cockpit to make sure it will not affect the plastic. RC car
paints usually work well for this. Do not paint the edges of
the cockpit where the canopy will attach or the glue will not
hold as well. After the canopy is glued on, the canopy frame
decal will cover the glue joint. After the paint has dried,
apply the instrument decal to the instrument panel.
5. Using a needle nose pliers, open the eyelet slightly
so that a rubberband can be installed on the eyelet. Thread
each eyelet into the round plywood doubler until it just starts
to come out the back.
6. Use medium CA to glue one of the eyelets to the bottom
of the fuselage between the receiver and receiver battery.
Glue the second eyelet on the bottom of the cockpit aligned
with the eyelet in the fuselage. After the CA has hardened,
thread the eyelets in three or four turns more.
7. Attach one of the rubberbands to the eyelets. It will
have to be doubled or tripled to create enough tension to
hold the back of the cockpit against the fuselage.
8. Trim the canopy 1/4" [6.4mm] outside the scribe lines.
Set the canopy over the cockpit and mark the outline of the
cockpit on the canopy. Trim the canopy to the line.

11
9. Remove the canopy and the cockpit from the fuselage.
Glue the cockpit between the lines on the canopy using
canopy glue such as J&Z R/C-56 Glue, Pacer RIC 560
Canopy Glue or 6-minute epoxy. Use the glue sparingly.
10. Remove the canopy and install the wing. Only a couple
of large rubberbands are needed to hold the wing at this time.
You will need to use at least eight rubber bands for flying.
11. Trim the aft end of the canopy to follow the shape of
the wing.
12. Attach the threaded tow hook to the bottom of the
fuselage by threading a 3mm nut and a 3mm washer all the
way onto the tow hook. Apply a drop of threadlocker to the
threads and tighten the tow hook into the front blind nut for
the first flights.With the tow hook threaded almost all the way
into the blind nut, make sure the tow hook is facing straight
back and tighten the 3mm nut to secure it. After the first
flights the tow hook can be moved back to the center hole for
most flying conditions. For contest flying, you may want to try
the rear hole as it can help achieve a higher launch but be
careful as the sailplane will be more aft to “pop-off” the line.
APPLY THE DECALS
1. Use scissors or a sharp hobby knife to cut the decals from
the sheet.
2. Be certain the model is clean and free from oily fingerprints
and dust. Prepare a dishpan or small bucket with a mixture
of liquid dish soap and warm water—about one teaspoon of
soap per gallon of water. Submerse the decal in the soap and
water and peel off the paper backing. Note: Even though the
decals have a “sticky-back” and are not the water transfer
type, submersing them in soap & water allows accurate
positioning and reduces air bubbles underneath.
3. Position decal on the model where desired. Holding
the decal down, use a paper towel to wipe most of the
water away.
4. Use a piece of soft balsa or something similar to squeegee
remaining water from under the decal. Apply the rest of the
decals the same way.

12
GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY
CHECK THE CONTROL DIRECTIONS
1. Turn on the transmitter and receiver and center the
trims. If necessary, remove the servo arms from the servos
and reposition them so they are centered. Reinstall the
screws that hold on the servo arms.
2. With the transmitter and receiver still on, check
all the control surfaces to see if they are centered. If
necessary, adjust the clevises on the pushrods to center
the control surfaces.
ELEVATOR
MOVES DOWN
RUDDER
MOVES RIGHT
2-Channel
Radio Set-Up
(Standard Mode 2)
3. Make certain that the control surfaces respond in
the correct direction as shown in the diagram. If any of
the controls respond in the wrong direction, use the servo
reversing in the transmitter to reverse the servos connected
to those controls. Be certain the control surfaces have
remained centered. Adjust if necessary.
SET THE CONTROL THROWS
To ensure a successful first flight, set up your
Sophisticated Lady according to the control throws
specified in this manual. The throws have been
determined through actual flight testing and accurate
record-keeping allowing the model to perform in the
manner in which it was intended. If, after you have
become accustomed to the way the Sophisticated Lady
flies, you would like to change the throws to suit your
taste, that is fine. However, too much control throw could
make the model too responsive and difficult to control,
so remember, “more is not always better.”
1. Use an airplane stand or something similar to raise up
the fuselage so the horizontal stab is level.
2. Measure the high rate elevator throw first. Hold a ruler
vertically on your workbench against the trailing edge of the
elevator. Note the measurement on the ruler.
3. Move the elevator up with your transmitter and move the
ruler forward so it will remain contacting the trailing edge. The
distance the elevator moves up from center is the “up” elevator
throw. Measure the down elevator throw the same way.
The pushrod farther out
means More Throw
The pushrod closer in
means Less Throw
The pushrod farther out
means Less Throw
The pushrod closer in
means More Throw
At the Servos
At the Control Surfaces

13
The pushrod farther out
means More Throw
The pushrod closer in
means Less Throw
The pushrod farther out
means Less Throw
The pushrod closer in
means More Throw
At the Servos
At the Control Surfaces
4. If necessary, adjust the location of the pushrod on the
servo arm or on the elevator horn, or program the ATVs in
your transmitter to increase or decrease the throw according
to the measurements in the control throws chart.
5. Measure and set the low rate elevator throws and the
high and low rate throws for the rudder control surface the
same way.
If your radio does not have dual rates, we recommend
setting the throws at the high rate settings.
NOTE: The throws are measured at the widest part of
the elevator and rudder.
These are the recommended control surface throws:
HIGH RATE LOW RATE
ELEVATOR 3/8"
[9.5mm]
22 deg
Up
3/8"
[9.5mm]
22 deg
Down
3/16"
[4.8mm]
11 deg
Up
3/16"
[4.8mm]
11 deg
Down
RUDDER 1-1/2"
[38mm]
24 deg
Right
1-1/2"
[38mm]
24 deg
Left
1"
[25.4mm]
16 deg
Right
1"
[25.4mm]
16 deg
Left
BALANCE THE MODEL (C.G.)
More than any other factor, the C.G. (center of gravity/
balance point) can have the greatest effect on how a
model flies and could determine whether or not your first
flight will be successful. If you value your model and wish
to enjoy it for many flights, DO NOT OVERLOOK THIS
IMPORTANT PROCEDURE. A model that is not properly
balanced may be unstable and possibly unflyable.
At this stage the model should be in ready-to-fly condition
with all of the components in place including the complete
radio system.
1. If using a Great Planes C.G. Machine, set the rulers to
3-5/8" [92mm]. If not using a C.G. Machine, use a fine-point
felt tip pen to mark lines on the bottom of the wing on both
sides of the fuselage 3-5/8" [92mm] back from the leading
edge. Apply narrow (1/16" [2mm]) strips of tape over the
lines so you will be able to feel them when lifting the model
with your fingers.
This is where your model should balance for the first
flights.Later, you may experiment by shifting the C.G. 1/8"
[3mm] forward or 1/8" [3mm] back to change the flying
characteristics. Moving the C.G. forward will improve
the smoothness and stability, but the model will then be
less sensitive (which may be fine for less-experienced
pilots). Moving the C.G. aft makes the model more
maneuverable and improves the sailplanes response to
air currents. In any case, start at the recommended
balance point and do not at any time balance the model
outside the specified range.

14
3-5/8" [92mm]
2. With the wing attached to the fuselage, and all parts of
the model installed (ready to fly), place the model right side
up on a Great Planes CG Machine, or lift it at the balance
point you marked.
3. If the tail drops, the model is “tail heavy.”Weight will need
to be added to the nose to get the model to balance. If the
nose drops, the model is “nose heavy.” If needed, the receiver
and receiver battery can be moved aft of the servos. If weight
is required use Great Planes “stick-on” lead (GPMQ4485).
To find out how much weight is required, place incrementally
increasing amounts of weight on the top of the fuselage over
the location where it would be mounted inside until the model
balances.The Sophisticated Lady has a weight compartment
in the nose where lead or BBs can be added. Once the
amount of weight that is required in the nose is determined,
the BBs can be glued in using white glue.
4. IMPORTANT: If you found it necessary to add any
weight, recheck the C.G. after the weight has been installed.
BALANCE THE MODEL LATERALLY
1. With the wing level, have an assistant help you lift the
model by the nose and the bottom of the fuse under the TE
of the fin. Do this several times.
2. If one wing always drops when you lift the model, it
means that side is heavy. Balance the airplane by adding
weight to the other wing tip. An airplane that has been
laterally balanced will track better.
CHECKING FOR WARPS
This is a very important step and should be done occasionally
throughout the flying season. A sailplane’s wing is most
efficient when it is not twisted or warped at all. “Washout”
(the wings trailing edges are twisted up at the tips) helps
make a poor wing design fly better by adding some stability
(preventing stalls) at slow speeds but it cuts down on the
wing’s efficiency at normal speeds. The Sophisticated Lady
ARF’s wing is designed to fly well at slow speeds without any
washout, and therefore we recommend you check to make
sure the wings are “flat” using the following procedure:
Set the wing so an inner panel is resting on a flat surface.
Any warp (twist) will show up by causing a corner of the
panel to rise off the work surface.
To remove the warp, gently twist the wing in the opposite
direction while a helper glides an iron or heat gun over the
covering on both the top and the bottom of the panel to re-
shrink the covering. Hold the twist until the covering cools
and then recheck for warps. It may take several tries to get a
warp out, but it is worth it as you will end up with a sailplane
that flies straight and true and responds to air currents like a
high performance sailplane should.
Follow the same procedure to check all four wing panels and
then go back and double check them. Sometimes you put a
warp in one wing panel while trying to fix another.You should
also look at the tail surfaces as they too can warp.
PREFLIGHT
IDENTIFY YOUR MODEL
No matter if you fly at an AMA sanctioned R/C club site or
if you fly somewhere on your own, you should always have
your name, address, telephone number and AMA number
on or inside your model. It is required at all AMA R/C club
flying sites and AMA sanctioned flying events. Fill out the
identification tag on page 18 and place it on or inside your
model.
CHARGE THE BATTERIES
Follow the battery charging instructions that came with your
radio control system to charge the batteries. You should
always charge your transmitter and receiver batteries the night
before you go flying, and at other times as recommended by
the radio manufacturer.

15
2) I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of spectators
until I become a qualified flier, unless assisted by an
experienced helper.
3) At all flying sites a straight or curved line(s) must be
established in front of which all flying takes place with the
other side for spectators. Only personnel involved with flying
the aircraft are allowed at or in the front of the flight line.
Intentional flying behind the flight line is prohibited.
4) I will operate my model using only radio control
frequencies currently allowed by the Federal
Communications Commission.
5) I will not knowingly operate my model within three
miles of any pre-existing flying site except in accordance
with the frequency sharing agreement listed [in the
complete AMA Safety Code].
CHECK LIST
During the last few moments of preparation your mind
may be elsewhere anticipating the excitement of the first
flight. Because of this, you may be more likely to overlook
certain checks and procedures that should be performed
before the model is flown. To help avoid this, a check list
is provided to make sure these important areas are not
overlooked. Many are covered in the instruction manual,
so where appropriate, refer to the manual for complete
instructions. Be sure to check the items off as they are
completed (that’s why it’s called a check list!).
1. Check the C.G. according to the measurements
provided in the manual.
2. Extend your receiver antenna and make sure it has a
strain relief inside the fuselage to keep tension off the solder
joint inside the receiver.
3. Balance your model laterally as explained in
the instructions.
4. Use threadlocking compound to secure critical fasteners
such as the tow hook.
5. Make sure all hinges are securely glued in place.
6. Reinforce holes for wood screws with thin CA where
appropriate (servo mounting screws, control horn screws, etc.).
7. Confirm that all controls operate in the correct direction
and the throws are set up according to the manual.
8. Make sure there are silicone retainers on all the clevises
and that all servo arms are secured to the servos with the
screws included with your radio.
9. Make sure any servo leads do not interfere with other
systems (servo arms, pushrods, etc.).
10. Place your name, address, AMA number and
telephone number on or inside your model.
CAUTION: Unless the instructions that came with
your radio system state differently, the initial charge on
new transmitter and receiver batteries should be done
for 15 hours using the slow-charger that came with
the radio system. This will “condition” the batteries
so that the next charge may be done using the fast-
charger of your choice. If the initial charge is done with
a fast-charger the batteries may not reach their full
capacity and you may be flying with batteries that are
only partially charged.
GROUND CHECK AND RANGE CHECK
Always ground check the operational range of your radio
before the first flight of the day following the manufacturer’s
instructions that came with your radio. If the control surfaces
do not respond correctly, do not fly! Find and correct the
problem first. Look for loose servo connections or broken
wires, corroded wires on old servo connectors, poor solder
joints in your battery pack or a defective cell, or a damaged
receiver crystal from a previous crash.
AMA SAFETY CODE (EXCERPTS)
Read and abide by the following excerpts from the Academy
of Model Aeronautics Safety Code. For the complete Safety
Code refer to Model Aviation magazine, the AMA web site or
the Code that came with your AMA license.
GENERAL
1) I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned events,
air shows, or model flying demonstrations until it has
been proven to be airworthy by having been previously,
successfully flight tested.
2) I will not fly my model aircraft higher than approximately
400 feet [122m] within 3 miles [4.8km] of an airport without
notifying the airport operator. I will give right-of-way and avoid
flying in the proximity of full-scale aircraft. Where necessary,
an observer shall be utilized to supervise flying to avoid
having models fly in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.
3) Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for the
flying site I use, and I will not willfully and deliberately fly my
models in a careless, reckless and/or dangerous manner.
5) I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my name
and address or AMA number, on or in the model. Note: This
does not apply to models while being flown indoors.
7) I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device
that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of any kind).
RADIO CONTROL
1) I will have completed a successful radio equipment ground
check before the first flight of a new or repaired model.

16
11. Cycle your receiver battery pack (if necessary) and
make sure it is fully charged.
12. If you wish to photograph your model, do so before
your first flight.
13. Range check your radio when you get to the
flying field.
F LYI N G
MOUNT THE WING
Mount the wing to the fuselage with included eight #64 rubber
bands. Install them from front to back, crisscrossing the last
two. Never use torn or cracked rubber bands. After removing
the rubber bands from your model, store them in a container
with talcum powder or clay-type kitty litter to keep them fresh
for the next flying session.
If the rubber bands you will be using are different from those
recommended, consult an experienced modeler to make
certain they are strong enough, and that you have used
enough of them. If uncertain, force the front of the wing off of
the wing saddle. There should be considerable resistance!
If the wing can be forced from the fuselage without having
to strain your hands, then there are probably not enough
rubber bands.
IMPORTANT: Flying a model with too few rubber
bands can be dangerous. If the wing momentarily lifts
from the fuselage and acts as though a large amount of
“up” elevator has suddenly been applied because there
are not enough rubber bands or they are too weak,
internal structural damage may result. Even worse, the
wing could actually detach from the fuselage resulting in
a crash. If the model exhibits any tendencies that indicate
there are not enough rubber bands, immediately land
and closely inspect the model for damage. If no damage
is found, add more rubber bands.
If you are flying with other flyers check to make sure they are
not flying or testing on the same frequency as your model.
If you are an inexperienced pilot try to find an experienced
pilot to help you with your first flights. Although the
Sophisticated Lady is very easy to fly, an experienced pilot
can save you a lot of time and possible aggravation by
helping you get your model in the air smoothly.
CAUTION (THIS APPLIES TO ALL R/C AIRPLANES):
If, while flying, you notice an alarming or unusual sound
such as a low-pitched “buzz,” this may indicate control
surface flutter. Flutter occurs when a control surface
(such as an aileron or elevator) or a flying surface
(such as a wing or stab) rapidly vibrates up and down
(thus causing the noise). In extreme cases, if not
detected immediately, flutter can actually cause the
control surface to detach or the flying surface to fail,
thus causing loss of control followed by an impending
crash. The best thing to do when flutter is detected is
to slow the model immediately, then land as soon as
safely possible. Identify which surface fluttered (so the
problem may be resolved) by checking all the servo
grommets for deterioration or signs of vibration. Make
certain all pushrod linkages are secure and free of
play. If it fluttered once, under similar circumstances it
will probably flutter again unless the problem is fixed.
Some things which can cause flutter are; Excessive
hinge gap; Not mounting control horns solidly; Poor fit
of clevis pin in horn; Side-play of wire pushrods caused
by large bends; Excessive free play in servo gears;
Insecure servo mounting.
TRIM FLIGHTS
It is a good idea to do a couple of trim flights before each flying
session to make sure the plane is still in trim and the radio is
working properly. The model will survive a hard landing from
5 feet much better than it will from several hundred feet. The
first few trim flights should be done over a grass field, the
longer the grass the better (more cushion). If possible, have
a friend hand launch the sailplane the first few trim flights.
This will allow you more time to make adjustments.
Switch the transmitter on first and then the receiver. Hold
the Sophisticated Lady ARF under the wing with the nose
pointed slightly down and directly into the wind. It is very
important that it be launched with the wings level and the
nose pointed at a spot on the ground about 50 feet [15.2m]
in front of you. If the sailplane is launched with the nose up or
launched too hard, it will climb a few feet, stall and fall nose
first straight down. With the nose pointed down slightly the
sailplane will accelerate down until it picks up enough flying
speed then level off and glide forward. With a little practice
you will be able to launch it at just the right speed so it soars
straight ahead in a long and impressive glide path. Adjust the
trims on your transmitter to get the plane to fly straight ahead
in a smooth glide path.
Once you get the hang of launching it you can try turning the
plane during the trim flights by gently applying a “touch” of
right or left rudder. You can also try “flaring” the landing by
slowly applying a touch of up elevator (pull the stick back)
as the plane nears the ground. The Sophisticated Lady ARF
will continue to fly just a few inches off of the ground for
a surprisingly long distance. It is important you don’t “over
control” the model. Make any control inputs slowly and
smoothly rather than moving the transmitter sticks abruptly.

17
YOUR FIRST HI-START LAUNCH
A hi-start is the most popular way to launch your Sophisticated
Lady ARF. It consists of 25'–100' [7.6 – 30.5m] of rubber
tubing and 200'– 400' [61–121.9 m] of string with a parachute
or streamer at the end. One end of the rubber is staked down
directly upwind of the launch point. One end of the string is
attached to the other end of the rubber tubing and the end
of the string with the parachute has a loop or ring and is
attached to the tow hook on the sailplane.
Follow the directions that came with the hi-start and lay it
out directly into the wind. Place the stake at the far upwind
edge of the flying field so the parachute will blow back onto
the flying field.
Switch on your transmitter and then the receiver and hook
the parachute onto the plane’s tow hook. Pull the sailplane
back approximately twice as far as the rubber tubing is long
(i.e., 100' [30.5m] of rubber tubing = 200' [61m] of pull back)
or whatever the hi-start instructions state. A “fish scale” is
handy for determining the correct amount of pull. For your
first flights pull the plane back until there is approximatly
8 lbs. of tension. More tension can be used after you get
acquainted with the launching procedure.
Hold the plane above your head with the wings level and
the nose pointed slightly up and directly into the wind. Give
the plane a healthy push forward to get it flying and it will
climb up like a kite.You should not have to touch the elevator
during the launch but use the rudder to keep it going straight
up. As the rubber tubing relaxes the plane will fly off the hi-
start and the parachute will bring the end of the string back
towards you. If it does not come off the high start, apply
down elevator to dip the nose of the sailplane down. The ring
should then come off the tow hook.
FIRST FLIGHTS
Find a BIG, OPEN field for your first flights - the bigger the
better as you won’t have to worry about where you need
to land. Ground based objects (trees, poles, buildings, etc.)
seem to attract model airplanes like a magnet. Again, we
would like to recommend that you find an experienced
pilot to help you with these first flights.
Note: You need to remember that your radio control
responds as if you are sitting in the cockpit of the
sailplane. When you push the transmitter stick to the
right, the rudder moves to the plane’s right! This means
that when the plane is flying towards you it may seem
like the rudder controls are reversed (when you give
“right” rudder the plane turns to your left – which is the
plane’s “right”). It is sometimes easier to learn to fly the
plane if you always face your body in the direction the plane
is flying and look over your shoulder to watch the model.
Don’t worry about accomplishing very much on your first
flights. Use these flights to get the “feel” of the controls and
the Sophisticated Lady ARF’s flying characteristics. Try to
keep the plane upwind and just perform some gentle “S-turns”
(always turning into the wind) until it is time to set up for
landing. Have a helper adjust the trims on your transmitter, a
little at a time, until the plane will fly straight and level with the
transmitter sticks in their neutral positions. When it is time to
land, just continue performing the gentle “S-turns” upwind
and let the plane glide onto the ground. Don’t worry about
where the plane lands – just avoid hitting anything.
Practice flying directly into the wind, without letting the
plane get off course. Then, turn and come downwind until
the plane is even with you and try it again. When you are
comfortable with flying directly into the wind, let the plane
go past you before you start back upwind. Continue this
until you can fly directly towards you from downwind without
getting disoriented. At this point you can start to establish a
landing pattern and bring the sailplane in for a landing from
downwind. This enables the plane to be flown as slowly as
possible for accurate landings.
THERMAL FLYING
Thermal soaring is one of the most intriguing of all aspects
of flying and the Sophisticated Lady ARF was designed to
excel at thermal soaring even in the hands of a novice. It can
be hard for the average person to understand how a plane
can fly for hours and gain altitude without a motor.
FACTS ABOUT THERMALS
Thermals are a natural phenomenon that happens outside,
by the millions, every single day of the year. Thermals are
responsible for many things including forming several types
of clouds, creating breezes and the distributing plant seeds
and pollen. If you have ever seen a dust devil, you have seen
a thermal in action. Their swirling action is very similar to that
of a tornado but of course much gentler. Most thermals have
updrafts rising in the 200'–700' [61– 213.4m] per minute
range but they have been known to produce updrafts of
over 5,000’ per minute. The strong updrafts can tear apart a
sailplane or carry the sailplane out of sight before the pilot
can get out of the updraft.
Thermals are formed by the uneven heating of the earth
and buildings, etc. by the sun. The darker colored surfaces
absorb heat faster than the lighter colored surfaces which
reflect a great deal of the sun’s energy back into space.
These darker areas (plowed fields, asphalt parking lots, tar
roofs, etc.) get warmer than the lighter areas (lakes, grassy
fields, forests, etc.). This causes the air above the darker
areas to be warmer than the air over the lighter areas and
the more buoyant warm air rises as the cooler, denser air
forces its way underneath the warmer air. As this warm air is
forced upward it contacts the cooler air of the higher altitudes
and this large temperature difference makes the thermal rise
quicker. The thermal is gradually cooled by the surrounding
cooler air and its strength diminishes. Eventually the thermal
stops rising and any moisture contained in the once warm
air condenses, forming puffy cumulus clouds. These clouds,
which mark the tops of thermals, are usually between 2000'
and 5000' high.

18
THERMAL SOARING
It takes a lot of concentration to thermal soar effectively. A
sailplane can fly along the edge of a thermal and unless the
pilot is carefully watching the model he may not realize the
opportunity to gain some altitude. Because most thermals
are relatively small, a couple hundred feet [60m] or less at
400' [121.9m] altitude) compared to the rest of the sky, the
sailplane will rarely fly directly into the thermal and start
rising. Generally, the sailplane will fly into the edge or near a
thermal and the effects the thermal has on the plane may be
almost unnoticeable. As the sailplane approaches a thermal,
the wing tip that reaches the rising air first will be lifted before
the opposite wing tip. This causes the sailplane to “bank” and
turn away from where we would like the sailplane to go.
When you are thermal soaring, try to fly as smooth and
straight as possible. Trim the sailplane to fly in a straight line
and only touch the controls when you have to. Watch the
sailplane carefully and it will tell you what it is encountering.
When the sailplane flies directly into a thermal it will either
start rising or stop sinking. Either case is reason enough to
start circling, especially in a contest where every second
counts. Fly straight ahead until you feel like you are in the
strongest lift, fly a couple of seconds farther, so that your
circle will be centered in the strongest lift, and then start
circling in a fairly tight but smooth turn. When the sailplane is
low the turns have to be tighter to stay in the strongest lift. As
the plane gains altitude, the turns can be larger and flatter.
The flatter the turn, the more efficient the plane is flying. If
you see the sailplane falling off on one side of the circle,
move your circle over into the stronger lift. Thermals move
along with the wind so as you circle you will be swept along
with it. Be careful when thermaling, that you don’t get so far
downwind you can’t make it back to the field to land.
If the sailplane is flying along straight and all of a sudden
turns, let the plane continue to bank. You may have to add
some rudder to keep it banked. Continue turning until the
sailplane has completed a 270 degree turn, ¾ of a circle.
Straighten out the bank and fly into whatever turned the
plane. If you encounter lift, and you won’t every time, start
circling just as you did when flying directly into a thermal.
Thermals are generated all day long, but the strongest
thermals are produced when the sun is directly overhead.
Some of these thermals can be very large and you may find
it hard to get out of them. If you find your sailplane getting too
high, don’t dive the plane to get out of the lift. Sailplanes are
very efficient aircraft and they will build up a lot of speed and
could come apart in the rough air of a thermal. The easiest
way to lose altitude is to apply full rudder and full up elevator.
This will put the sailplane into a tight spin that will not over
stress the airframe but it will enable it to lose altitude very
quickly. This is especially helpful if the sailplane gets sucked
into a cloud or it gets too high to see. The twirling action will
give the sun a better chance of flashing off of the wing and
catching your attention.
In a gentle thermal, when you are high enough and want
to leave the thermal, add a little down trim to pick up speed
and fly 90 degrees to the direction of the wind. If you are not
real high and want to find another thermal, you may want
to look upwind of the last thermal. The same source that
generated the first thermal is probably producing another.
Just watch out for “sink” which is often found behind and
between thermals.
As you might expect, with all this air rising, there is also air
sinking. This air is the sailplane pilot’s nightmare that can
really make soaring challenging. Sinking air is usually not
as strong as the thermal in the same area, but can be very
strong. Down drafts of many hundreds of feet (meters) per
minute are common on a good soaring day. These down
drafts can make a sailplane look like it is falling out of the
air. Because of this, it is important that you do not let the
sailplane get too far downwind.
When encountering sink, immediately turn and fly 90 degrees
to the direction of the wind. Apply a little “down elevator” and
pick up some speed to get out of the sink as fast as possible.
Every second you stay in the sink is precious altitude lost.
POINTERS FOR CONTEST FLYING
Pay Attention: Pay close attention to the sailplanes flying
before you, watch them and try to establish where and
when the thermals are being formed. The thermals are often
formed in cycles and are fairly regular, so if you keep track
of the time intervals you will have a good idea of when and
where a thermal may be generated.
Watch The Birds: Thermals suck up small insects that many
birds love to eat. A bunch of swallows flying around in one
area may indicate a thermal. Soaring birds such as hawks,
vultures and eagles are the best thermal indicators. They not
only show you where the thermal is but they also show you
where the center is. These “Masters of the sky” will often fly
right along with the sailplanes.
Practice Those Landings: Most thermal contests are won
or lost during the landing. Establish a particular landing
pattern and try to stick to it for all landings. Learn to shift
your pattern to account for the wind and particular fly field
characteristics.
Concentrate: Keep your eye on your sailplane during your
contest flights. Have a helper or your counter watch the other
sailplanes in the air. Sometimes your sailplane will wiggle so
quickly or gently that you may miss it if you are not paying
close attention. If you find a productive thermal, don’t leave it
because your helper tells you that someone else has found
a different one.

19
Know Your Sailplane: Learn what your sailplane will and
won’t do and fly within this envelope. This will allow you to
ride thermals downwind while knowing when you have to
head back to make your landing safely.
Learn From The Wind: Keep track of which way the wind is
blowing. If the wind suddenly shifts, there is some thermal
activity close to you. The air is probably being either sucked
up into a thermal or falling out of some sink. In either case it
is often a good idea to fly in the direction the wind is blowing
if your sailplane is in the general area. This will take you
towards a thermal if there is one or away from the sink, both
of which are desirable.
BALLASTING
In strong wind conditions, you may want to add ballast
(weight) to the sailplane to increase its wing loading which
increases its normal flying speed. Increasing the weight of
your sailplane does not change its “glide ratio” but it does
make it fly faster. Because of the faster sink rate, you need
to be very cautious when ballasting for a thermal contest. In
duration type contests only use ballast on very windy days
that also have a lot of thermal activity.
Add the weight as near as possible to the C.G. of the plane.
Adding 6 – 8oz (170 – 225g) will make a noticeable difference
in the sailplane’s flying speed and more can be added later,
if needed. Make sure to recheck the C.G. of the plane after
adding the ballast – it should not change.
Have a ball! But always stay in control
and fly in a safe manner.
GOOD LUCK AND GREAT FLYING!
This model belongs to:
Name
Address
City, State, Zip
Phone Number
AMA Number

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www.carlgoldbergproducts.com