INTRODUCTION
USING THIS INSTRUCTION MANUAL
Before you start gluing and sanding, take some time
be~oming
fam!liar with the plan.s and .looking through
th
is
ent1re
Instruction Booklet. It IS des1gned to guide you
through the construction process step by step, so build
in
the
or~er
given in this book. Building options, as well as
balancing, set-up, and flying the model are covered.
Like a full-size airplane, the TIGER 2 is built from
basic structures (stabilizer, fin, wing, etc.), which are then
assembled into the complete airplane.
Special procedures
or
comments will usually be
explained before a step, so you will be prepared. If a
step begins with a statement like "Note," 'Warning,"
or
"Important," it is a good idea to read through the step
before doing it.
A check-off box appears
at
the beginning
of
each
step. Check these boxes as you build, so you can tell at
a glance what steps you have completed. Some steps
are repeated and must be marked twice, as in the case
of
the left and right wing panel.
Some of the instructions deal with general
procedures. Boxes are not needed for these sections.
HOW TO READ THE PLAN
T~e
plan sheet in .this kit shows the.Fuselage (Body),
the
W1ng,
and the
Ta11
Parts. Everything on the plan is
drawn to full-size and shape and shows how the finished
parts fit together.
The plan is drawn
to
show the model completely
assembled, but
as
a result, the areas inside or
underneath are covered up, making it hard
to
understand
how these parts fit together. Therefore, for clarity, some
parts are drawn with hidden lines, others with breakaway
views, and some are entirely removed from the structure
and shown separately.
For example, on the fuselage, the left side
of
the
completed model has been removed to show the details
insi
de
. Sometimes a surface is broken away
to
reveal
the detail behind
or
underneath. Dashed lines indicate
details that are hidden behind or under another part
of
the surface.
The model is made from four varieties
of
wood:
balsa, bass, birch, and various plywoods. Each kind
of
v.:ood
has its own characteristic end grain pattern (as
v1ewed
from the end) which has been drawn in this book.
You can easily use these end grain patterns to identify
what kind
of
wood is shown for a part,
if
you are
in
doubt.
HOW
TO
USE THE PLAN
The
plan is used in several ways. The wings, stabilizer,
and
~n
are assembled directly over the plan. Each wood
part IS matched over its corresponding location printed on
the plan and pinned
in
place. To prevent ruining your
plan from gluing your wings, etc. to it, cover the area you
are working
on
with waxed paper.
The paper the plan
is
printed on can expand
or
contract slightly with changes
in
temperature
or
humidity.
Because
of
this, a preformed part, such as the notched
wing trailing edge, may not exactly match the plan. This
is no problem, as slight deviations in the outline or size
will not noticeably affect flight performance.
Because the fuselage plugs togeth
er
and is self-aligning,
it is not built directly over the plan. As you assemble the
fuselage, you will find the plan helpful in identifying parts
and how things
fit
together. The plan also shows the
installation
of
a typical radio, battery and all remaining
equipment and hardware needed to complete the model.
By referring
to
the examples shown, you should be able
to install your own radio, etc., even
if
it is not the same as
what is shown
on
the plan.
IDENTIFYING PARTS
Parts for the wing are bundled together; likewise,
parts for the tail assembly are also grouped. Die-cut
plywood and bal
sa
sheets
of
common sizes are bundled
together, so they are less likely to be damaged during
shipping and handling.
The various screws, hinges, and fittings are
packaged
in
plastic bags.
PREPARING FOR ASSEMBLY
Set a flat, warp-free pinning board on your work
bench. Any material that accepts pins, such
as
insulation
board, soft plywood, or dry-wall (sheet rock) will work.
Important: any warps
or
bends in the pinning board will
result in wings or tail surfaces that are also warped
or
bent, making your model more difficult
to
fly. Make sure
that the pinning board is flat
by
laying a straight edge
across it. You
may
be able to correct a warped board
by
shimming its low areas.
Position the area
of
the plan (such as the stabilizer)
on which.Y.
ou
are going to build over the pinning board
and tape
1t
1n
place so the plan lays flat and wrinkle free.
Place a sheet
of
waxed paper or plastic kitchen wrap
over the work area
to
prevent Super Jet from sticking to
your plan and ruining it.
In assembling your mode
l,
the following tips wi
ll
prove helpfu
l.
IMPORTANT: ALWAYS READ A FEW STEPS
AHEAD. This wi
ll
alert you to coming instructions and will
help you plan accordingly.
You may find it convenient to empty all
of
the small
parts from the hardware bags into a common container,
such as a margarine tub. This will
he
lp you find items
quickly.
When drilling
any
1/16" holes in balsa, you mayfind it
easier to twist the dri
ll
between your thumb and index
finger. Th
is
procedure allows more control
in
positioning
the drill on the center mark.
Punch out only the die-cut (D/C) parts you need as
you proceed. This will help you keep track
of
parts,
especially the small ones.
Sometimes you will be asked to "tack cement" a
piece
of
wood that will later be taken apart. To provide
for easy removal without damage, use only a small drop
of
glue.
After completing each section
of
the aircraft, you may
want
to
go back and reglue the joints, just in case some
area
ha!;l
been missed.
Be
careful not to use too little
glue, which will leave the model weak, or too much glue,
which can make the model heavy. Properly glued joints
are important
to
the overall strength of the model. Super
Jet™ is recommended for most parts
of
the assembly,
although
Jet
Epoxy may be used when moretime is
needed for careful placement
