Carl Goldberg Products Mirage 550 User manual

1
CARL GOLDBERG PRODUCTS, LTD.
P.O. Box 88 Oakwood GA 30566 Phone #[phone] Fax # [phone] www.carlgoldbergproducts.com
© Copyright 1988 Carl Goldberg Products LTD.
Mirage 550
The Mirage 550
Wingspan:
Wing Area:
Length:
Flying Weight:
Power:
54"
464sq."
39"
INSTRUCTIONS
Watch the Mirage-the beatiful Mirage/ It's really there, but listen closely
and
you may not even hear it! Electric flying at its best-relaxed, quiet and
fun! Mirage's excellent flying characteristics make her very easy to fly, yet
still capable of exciting aerobatics like loops, rolls, stall turns and more.
Whether for training or sport flying, you have one of the finest electric
airplanes available.
Your successful first flight begins right here. Before starting assembly,
please
read carefully through this instruction booklet. It v.on't take that long,
and building your model and installing your equipment
IMII seem easier,
since
you IMII knowv.tiere you are going.
WARNING
While this aircraft is an excellent first choice for novice pilots, a radio-
controlled model is not a toy and is not intended for persons under
16 years
old. Keep this kit out of the reach of younger children, as it contains parts
that could
be dangerous. A radio-controlled model is capable of causing
serious bodily injury and property damage. It is the buyer's responsibility to
build this kit correctly and to properly install the motor, radio, and all other
equipment. Test and fly the finished model only in the presence and
1Mth the
assistance of another experienced R/C flyer. The model must
ah,vays be
operated and flooo using great care and common sense, as \Nell as in
accordance
1Mth the Safety Code of the Academy of Model Aeronautics
(5151 Memorial Drive, Muncie, IN 47302, 1-800-435-9262). We suggest you
join the AMA and become properly insured prior to flying this model. Also,
consult
1Mth the AMA or your local hobby dealer to find an experienced
instructor in your area. Per the Federal Communications Commission, you
are required to use only those radio frequencies specified "for Model
Aircraft."

2
ITEMS NEEDED TO COMPLETE THIS KIT
□
RADIO GUIDANCE SYSTEM (2-3 CHANNEL
MINIMUM REQUIRED, 4 CHANNEL
RECOMMENDED)
□
1 6 CELL 7.2v BATTERY PACK (1500 -1900
MAH)
□
1 2 OZ. BOTTLE
CA GLUE
□
1 EPOXY
□
1 TUB BALSA-TINTED CGP FILLER
□ 2 ROLLS COVERING
□
FUEL-PROOF PAINT FOR COWL AND
WHEELPANTS
□
1 BATTERY CHARGER
NECESSARYTOOLS AND SUPPLIES.
□
MISCELLANEOUS RUBBER BANDS,
INCLUDING SEVERAL#64
□
WAXED PAPER
□
MODELING KNIFE AND RAZOR BLADES
□
SANDPAPER (ASSORTED GRITS, INCLUDING
COARSE (80), MEDIUM (150) AND FINE (220-
320)
□
SANDING BLOCK
□
'T' PINS (at least 75)
□
FLAT BUILDING BOARD (24" x60") SOFT
ENOUGH
TO PUSH PINS INTO
□
ELECTRIC DRILL AND ASSORTED DRILL BITS
□
SCISSORS
□
SMALL SCREWDRIVER
□
MASKING TAPE
□
LONG NOSE PUERS
□
COVERING IRON AND HEAT GUN
ELECTRONIC SPEED CONTROL OPTION
Ifyou wll be us i ng a th ree-channel radio sys tem, an electronic
speed control gives you variable motor speeds. You
can
select any l'.)C)\',e r setting: ful pov.er for take-Off and dimb-out,
hal f powe r for lazy cruising, or cut power to glide in for landing.
The
speed contro ll er replaces th e th ir d servo that 'MXJ ld
nonnally be connected to th e motor "orH>ff' sw t ch . You also
save some
',',,€ight, because the controller is li gh ter than the
servo and pushrod. Speed controllers are somew,at
expensive,
but havi ng one w ll add a lot to your fl ying
en joyme nt.
There are many good speed controllers on the market. Even
those dsigned for
RIC cars wl l v.ork ',',,€ II in you Mirage . The
most important thing in se lecting a speed controller is that it
must be able to run continuously forat least five minutes
at 15
to 20 amps. Ask your hobby dealer for advice.
More
installation information is given laterin th is book

3
An experienced R/C flight instructor is strongly recommended for learning how to fly.
RUDDER CONTROLS "YAW"
(SIDE
TO SIDE)
ELEVATOR CONTROLS
"PITCH"
(UP & DOWN ATTITUDE)
DIGITAL PROPORTIONAL
RADIO CONTROL
BASIC
FLIGHT
CONTROLS
•·~~t
(' ',~ . -•\, :,\~ I--ffil
I ~ ~ .·
~ i "\ . -~~ .... ·j:r ~~
~~~I
·~J, ......._~···
Ill
ONE OF MANY SYSTEMS AVAILABLE,
PLEASE SEE YOUR LOCAL DEALER OR
CLUB FOR
ADVICE ON SELECTING
YOUR RADIO.
SELECTING RADIO CONTROL EQUIPMENT
The Mirage was designed to fly on two or three-channel radio
control equipment. Atwo-channel system gives you two separate
controls; one channel
is used for the rudder which controls left
and right direction, a second channel operates the elevator, which
controls climbing, level flight, and descent. A three-channel
system provides you with control of the motor: either on/off with
the switch that
is included in the kit, or "variable speed" with an
optional electronic speed controller available from various
manufacturers.
We recommend you purchase a 4 (or more) channel system
with at least three servos and use the third channel for on/off
control. Not only
is the added dimension of motor control much
more fun, but landings are much easier since you can "go
around" if your first approach is not as good as you want. Also,
by purchasing a 4-channel set
now, you will not need to get one
as you move up to more sophisticated models.
Radio
sets are battery powered with either dry cells (small flash-
light type batteries) or more reliable rechargeable nickel-cadmium
batteries (ni-cads). Sets powered with ni-cads come equipped with
a recharging unit, and are more expensive than dry-cells sets.
However, if you intend to do a lot of flying, the cost of routinely
replacing worn out dry cell batteries will be much greater than
the higher initial cost of a re-chargeable ni-cad radio system;
something to consider. Many of the radio systems now available
feature "servo reversing" switches which allow
you to reverse the
response of the servo. This feature simplifies radio installation
and
is a worthwhile consideration when selecting a radio system.
You may find radios with more sophisticated features such as dual
rates, exponential and control mixing,
etc. These features are not
needed for general sport flying, and are typically used by more
advanced flyers.
When selecting a radio, remember that there are many radio
frequencies available. Not all of these frequencies can be legally
used to operate model airplanes.
Tell your dealer that you want
a radio with a model "Airplane" frequency.
WARNING: Per the Federal Communications Commission, there
is only one group of frequencies for radio control aircraft
use.
According to the law, it is your responsibility to use the designated
aircraft frequencies to operate your model airplane.
The number of channels your radio control set has wlll determine how many controls you can use In your model.
3-CHANNEL SET 2-CHANNEL SET
RUDDER RUDDER

4
MOTOR & PROPELLER
We include the Carl Goldberg TURBO 550 Motor with your
Mirage because it has the best performance/value ratio. It will
provide
you with agood climb for 4 minutes or more, on a standard
6-cell battery and an 8-4 prop. If you don't mind spending
more,
you can power your Mirage with a power unit such as the
Challenger 05 Flight System manufactured by Astro Flight with
similar results.
For the ultimate in performance select a cobalt
motor, again such as an Astro Flight system. There are geared
systems which will give even more thrust but you may want to
reserve that type of power plant for a competition type plane.
The Turbo 550 Motor System is equipped with an in-line fuse.
Without a fuse, the motor or battery could be permanently
damaged if the prop
is stalled or jammed while the motor is
running. If you will be using another brand of motor make sure
it has a
fuse-if it doesn't, ask your dealer how to install one. It
isn't that difficult.
An 8-4 nylon propeller is included in the kit-the best all around
prop with the TURBO 550 Motor. Some wooden 8-4 props may
give better climb. If you use a geared or cobalt motor please refer
to manufacturer's recommendations.
HOW MANY BATTERIES?
To get in the most flying each session we suggest you purchase
three battery packs. While one pack
is cooling and waiting to be
charged, a second pack can be on charge and the third can be
in your plane ready for use. Of course, you can fly with only one
pack, but you may have to wait up to 40 minutes between flights.
BATTERY CHARGERS
There is qute a selection of chargers available and most work
qute
well. For the best advice, see YOU' dealer. If you can't, here is
a brief description of the various stypes of charges and how they
work.
Some chargers
use 12 volts, as does a car battery, while others
use 120 volt house curent. Some will work on both. Most qLick
chargers charge in 20 mirutes or less. A handy, though not
mandatory accessoryfor YOU' charger is a digital voltage meter.
BASIC CHARGERS-With a Mechanical Timer. This type
works well but must be used with care to avoid overcharging your
batteries. Generally they are the least expensive.
AUTOMATIC WITH DELTA (PEAK) DETECTION. Generally
more expensive but very easy to
use-just hook up and come
back
in 20 minutes. They usually operate only from a 12 volt power
supply.
AUTOMATIC WITH HEAT SENSOR. Generallythe most expen-
sive and work very well. Simply plug
in and come back in 20
minutes. Battery must be cool before start of charge cycle. These
chargers are available
in 12, 120, and 12/120 volt power
requirements.
Additional information on batteries and chargers is found
in
the "Balancing & Flying Your Model" section laterin this book.

5
INTRODUCTION
USING THIS INSTRUCTION MANUAL
Befae you start glLing and sancing, take some time becoming
familiar with the plans and looking ttvough this entire Instruction
Booklet. It is
desigied to glide you through the cons1ruction
process step
by step, so bli ld in 1he order given in this book.
Balarcing, setting
L4> and flying the model are also covered.
Like a ful-size airplane, the Mirage 550
is blilt from basic
structu-es (stabilizer. fin,
"Mng, etc. ), which are then assembled into
the complete airplane. Special proce<ises
or com ments ...,;11
usually be explained before a step, so you ...,; 11 be prepared. If a
step
begns 'Mth a statement like "Note," ' Warning ," or ''Important,"
it is a good idea to read through
1he step before doing it
A check-off box appears at 1he begnring of each step. Check
these boxes as you bli ld, so you can tell at a glance what steps
you have completed.
Some steps are repeated and must be
marked twice, as in the case
of the left and ri~t ...,;ng panel.
HOW TO READ THE PLAN
There is one plan sheet in this kit, shO"Mng the Fuselage
(Body), the Wing, and the Tail Parts. Everything on the plan is
ctawn to ful-size and shape
and shows h ow the firished parts fit
together.
The plan is drawn to show the
mode l completely assembled,
but as a resut, the areas inside
or 1.11demeath a-e covered up,
making it hard to u,derstand how these parts fit together.
Therefore, for darity,
some parts are dra'M1 'Mth hidden lines,
others with breakaway views,
and some a-e entirely removed from
the strl.cilse and
shOY.n separately.
For example, on the fuselage, the left side of the completed
model has been removed to show the details inside. Sometimes a
suface is broken away to reveal the detail behind or u,demeath.
Dashed lines inc:icate details that are hidden behi nd or 1.11der
another part of the suface .
FUSELAGE DRAWN WITH LEFT SIDE
REMOVED
10 REVEAL INNER
FUSELAGE DETAILS
DASHED
LI NES SHOW
WIRES "HIDDEN"
BEHIND BATTERY _ _.,.,....__
THE WING IS SHOWN
CU T
THROUGH
AT THE CENTER-
THIS IS A "SECTION" VIEW
FUSELAGE SI
DE
"BREAK-AWAY" VIEW
TO SHOW HOW SWITCH
IS MOUNTED
The model is made from fOIS varieties of wood : balsa, bass,
bi rch. and various plywoods. Each kind of wood has its O\Wl
characteristic end grain pattern (as viewed from 1he end) which has
been drawn on the plan. You can easily use these end gain
patterns toidentifywhat kind of wood is shown for a part, if you are
in dowt
HOW TO USE THE PLAN
The planisused in several ways . The wings, stabilizer, cM1d fin
are assembled
drectly over the plcri. Each wood part is matched
over its
carespondng location printed on the plcri and pimed in
place. To prevent rtiring y01S plan from glling YOU' wings, etc. to
it,coverthe area youare working on 'M1h waxed paper.
The paperthe plan is printed
on can expand or contract slig,tly
wi1h chcriges in temperatl.re or humidty. Because of this, a pre-
formed partsuch
as the notched ...,;ng traifing edge may not exactly
match the plan. This is
no problem, as slight deviations in the
outline or size will not noticeably affect ffi~ perform.rice .
Because the fuselage
plugs together .rid is self-alig1ing, it is
not bli lt cirectly over the plan. As you assemble the fuselage, you
will find the plan helpfu in identifying parts and h
ow things fit
together.
The plan also shows the installation
of a typical radio. battery
and
al remairing ecµpment and hardware needed to com plete the
model.
By referring to the examples shown, you shotJd be able to
install
YOU' OVv'l1 radio, etc., even if it is not the same as what is
shown on the plan.
IDENTIFYING PARTS
Parts for the wing a-e bt.neled together; likewise, parts for the
tail assembly
are also grouped . Die-cut plywood cM1d balsa sheets
of common sizes are buidled together, so they are less likely to be
damaged cluing shipping and hcridling. The various screws,
hinges, and fittings are packaged in plastic bags.
PREPARING FOR ASSEMBLY
Set a flat, wa-p-free pinring board on YOU' work bench. My
material that accepts pins, such as insuation bo..-d, soft plywood,
or dry-wall (sheetrock) ...,;11 work. I mportant: any warps or bends
in the pinning
board will result in wings or tail surfaces that
arealso warped or bent, making your model more difficult to
fly. Make SLl'e that the pi mng bo..-d is flat by laying a strai~t
edge across it You may be able to carect a warped board by
shimming its l ow a-eas.
Position the a-ea of the plan (such as the stabilizer) on v.ttich
youare going
to btild over the pinring board and tape it in place so
the plan laysflat and wrinkle free.
Place a sheet
of waxed paper over the work area to prevent
SUPERJETfrom sticki ng to YOIS plan and rtiring it
CONSTRUCTION TIPS
In assembling ycu model, the foll O"Mng tips will prove helpfu.
IMPORTANT: ALWAYS READ A FEW STEPS AHEAD. This
will alert you
to com i ng instructions and ...,; 11 help you pl an
accorcingly.
You
may find it converientto empty all of the small parts from
the hardware bags into a
co m mon container, such as a margarine
11.b . This will help you find it ems cµckly .
PL.nch out ony the die-cut (D/C) parts you need as you
proceed. This will help you keep track of parts, especially the small
ones.
After completing each section of the airaaft , you may want to
go bac k Md re-glue the joints, just in case some area has been
missed.
Be carefu not to use too little glue, which will leave the
model
weak , or too much glue, which can make the model heavy.
Properly glued j
oints are im portait to the overall strength of the
model.
SUPER JEPM is recom m~ded f or most parts of the
assembly, although
JET Epoxy m ay be used when more ti me is
needed forcareftJ placement.

6
WOOD
PARTS
IDENTIFICATION
Becareful when removing parts (such as fuselage sides) from
die-cut sheets. Long parts are fragile until glued into a struc-
tural unit. If necessary, use a razor knife or razor saw to assist
in the removal of parts from sheet. Sometimes a little trimming
and sanding can improve parts where desired. Save scrap until
model is completed, in case you shou
ld
miss a part. Scrap is
used also in some building steps
on
the plan. Other easily
recognized parts, such as motor bearers are not shown here.
SHEET
4201
1/16"
X
2-3/4"
X
18" 4-REQ'
D.
CENTER
PLATFORM
STAB
TIPS
Fl
N BOTTO
~
SHEET
4207
DORSAL
Fl
N
STAB
l.E.
JOINER
FIN
TOP
~ I
3/16"
X
2-3/4"
x18
1-
REQ'
D.
2-CHANNEL
SWITCH
MOUNT
SHEET
4208
1/8"
PLY
x
2-7/8"
x
13-1/l"
1-REQ'D.
FORMERS
WINDSHIELD
TOP
FOR~:f~:~
/
NDING
~-EF
o:
CGJs~~,
SHEET
4209
1/8"
x
2-7/8
" x
15-7/8"
1-REQ'D
0
ABOUT THE WOOD
IN
THE KIT
We
strive to supply good quality materials in your kit. Wood
parts are inspected with regard to the function they will serve.
If
an
imperfection is spotted
in
a scrap corner of a die-cut sheet
and doesn't affect actual parts, the sheet is considered
acceptable. Al
so,
internal stresses
in
wood are relieved as it
is
cut into parts. These
rel
ieved stresses may cause some parts
to bow. Bows in wood parts (such as leading edges) readily
straighten out as they are glued into a structural unit.
WI
NG
RI
BS
WI
NG
GUSSET
TOP
CENTER
SHEETING
~~1~~111
1
~
CC":)
:2____J.
SHEET
4202
1/16"
X
2-3/4"
X
18" 2-REQ' D.
WING
BOTTOM
SHEETING
II F I
11
SHEET
4211
1/16"
X
3"
X
l8"
1-REQ'D.
1/8"
PLY
x
3-9/16"
x
9-7/8"
1-REQ'D.
FRONT
FUSE
HATCH
HATCH
BOTTCM
FORMERS
TONGUE
II
SHEET
4204
!
□~~~~
1/16"
x 3" x 18"
1-
REQ' D.
aNTER
F
SE
BOTTOM
FUSELAGE
TOP
STAB
PLATFORM
[g
=
~-]
=-=
C
©S]
SHEET
4205
1/16"
X
3"
X
18"
1-REQ'D.
FUSELAGE
SI
DE
D
SHEET
4203
1/16"
x
4-1/l"
x 36"
FUSE
TOP
FUSE
BOTTO
DIHEDRAL
DOUBLER
DOUBLER
JOINER
SHEET
4210 2-REQ'D.
1/8"
Pl
Y x
2-1/4"
x 12"
REAR
FUSELAGE
BOTTOM
[
_[
p
SHEET
4206
1/16"
X
3" x24"
2-REQ'D_
LANDING
GEAR
FAIRINGS
2
1-REQ'
D.

7
3/16"
FUSELAGE
ASSEMB
,
I
''
11
////
'All
SQ
..
UARE
MOTOR
BEARERS
l-3/4"
DIAMETER
SPINNER
MAJOR
PARTS
&
COMPONENTS
SHOWN
HERE
BEFORE
COVERING
TAI
L
ASSEMB~~
i
,uor
CENTER
SHEET!
NG
ATTERY
ATCH
COVER
NYLON
i
HATCH
FASTENER
BALSA
LANDING
}:\
GEAR
FAIRING
,
MAIN
LANDI
NG
~.,
GEAR
STRUTS
tf:/J
PLASTIC
WHEEL
PANT
2"
LIGHTWEIGHT
WHEEL
CONTROL
SURFACES
ES
l
ELEVATOR
/
.
TAIL
WHEEL
ASSEMBLY
I
PS
EBS

8
TAIL ASSEMBLY
RUDDER
\
~ "' 3/16" X 5/16"~. 1/16" X 3/16"
~ x18" "lJ x18"
CONTROL
SURFACES
LEADING EDGE TRUSS
(1 REQ'D.)
TRAILING EDGE MATER IAl
t
MATER IAl
1. D Set your flat warp-free pinning board on work
bench.
D Tape Mirage plan so stabilizer (stab) is in position
over pinning board.
D Tape a sheet of wax paper or plastic kitchen wrap
over stab area to prevent gluing parts to the plan as
you build.
2. □ Carefully position die-cut leading edge joiner and
center platform and pin in place over the plan. Glue
these parts together using Super Jet (Thick C.A.).
CENTER PLATFORM STAB TIPS
Fl N B~OM DORSAL Fl N STAB l.E. JOINER
IC: : \ill~=====~
SHEET 4207 3/16" x 2-3/4" x18 1- REQ' D.
LEADING EDGE
3. □ Make stab leading edge (LE.) from 3/16" x 5/16"
balsa sticks. Cut balsa carefully to match with plan at
center joint.
□ Pin in position and glue to LE. Joiner.
□ Make stab T.E. from 3/16" x 5/16' balsa. Cut to
match length shown on plan and glue to T.E. joiner.
□ Complete stab outline by gluing die-cut balsa stab
tips in place.

9
4. □ From 3/16" x 1/16" strip balsa, cut all trusses to size
over plan. Working one-at-a-time, trim to fit
well-don't
force into place. Glue in place.
Jet Set makes all brands of CA glue dry faster. Use
JetSet on comerjoints for extra-strong fillets.
□ Let dry thoroughly.
NOTE: Jet Set now comes in a pump spray bottle.
5. □ Position balsa elevator against stab T.E. and mark
AIAvator Ands for match with stab tios.
□ Cut elevator at marks to match stabilizer tips.
6. □ Transfer hinge locations from plan to T.E.
□ Place elevator on top of T.E. and transfer hir
locations to elevator.

10
7. □ Assemble the fin in the same manner as stab. Let
dry.
8. □ Mark hinge locations on fin and rudder.
9. □ Using the CG Center-Line Marker provided, mark
center lines along edges of parts as shown . Tilt marker
so guide pegs touch the wood , then lightly pass the
marker back and forth . Point will scribe center line.

11
Note : in the next few steps the hinges will be TEMPORARILY
installed-they are not permanently installed until after
the model is covered.
10a. □ At hinge locations, press a nail point to start holes.
Then carefully drill four 1/16" diameter holes through
stab T.E. at hinge locations. Try to keep drill centered,
not up, down or off to a side. The optional CG Hinge
Drilling Guide
(not included) makes these drilling
alignments automatically.
10b. D After drilling, use a razor knife to make clearance
slits for hinge webs. Temporarily insert hinges.
11a. D Repeat drilling and slitting for elevator-Caution;
keep drill centered in elevator.
ELEVATOR END VIEW TO SHOW DRILL
BEING CENTERED IN ELEVATOR
11b. □ Temporarily fit elevator on hinges.

12
12. D Repeat drilling and slotting method in steps 10 &
11 for fin and rudder.
13. □ Sand flat the fin and stab to flush the trussing with
the leading and trailing edge. Now round the L.E., T. E.
and tip to an air-foil shape as shown on plan.
ASSEMBLING DIE-CUT BEVELING TOOL
(FROM 1/8" PLY)
Parts for two tools are furnished -only one is used.
BEVELING
1~am1
SHEET 4212 1/8" PLY x 3-9/16" x 9-7/8" 1-REQ'D.
KEEP~
SQUARE
I
LIKE THIS
CUT ONE STRIP SANDPAPER THIS SIZE
14a. □ First glue narrow strip to handle, keeping them
square, as shown. Then glue wide strip to handle and
narrow strip, again keeping things square.
14b. □ Cut one strip of 100-200 grit sandpaper to size
shown above. Glue sandpaper to tool.
15. □ Tape T.E . of elevator and rudder to work surface.
Using beveling tool, sand L.E.
to center line. Turn parts
over and repeat beveling for other side.
THIS COMPLETES
THE TAIL ASSEMBLY CONSTRUCTION.

13
WING
PARTS
WING
RIBS
WI
NG
RI
BS
WI
NG
GUSSET
TOP
CENTER
SHEET!
NG
l~~DI
SHEET
4201
1/16"
x
2-3/4"
x
18"
4-REQ'
D.
SHEET
4202
1/16"
X
2-3/4"
X
18"
2-REQ'
D.
SHEAR
WEBS
SHEET4200
2-REQ'D
WI
NG
TOP
SHEETING
1/16
11
X 3-7/8" X 26-1/4
11
2
REQ'
D.
FUSE
TOP
FUSE
BOTT
DOUBLER
----
SHEET
4210
2-REQ'D.
1/8"
PLY
x 2-1/4" x
12"
WI
NG
BOTTOM
SHEET!
NG
1/16"
X 1-5/8
11
X
26-1/4"
2
REQ'
D.
WING
BOTTOM
SHEETING
II
f I
II
SHEET
4211
1/16"
X
3"
X
18"
1-REQ'D,
BEVELING
SPAR
SET-BACK
IO
"T"
ETAINERS
PANT
::,::E~~eff.~~7]
DOUBLERS
DIHEDRAL
BRACE
SHEET
4212
1+---11._
WING
CLAMP
1/11"
PLY
x 3-9/16" x 9-7/8" }-REQ'D.
SPAR
CAPS
CUT
TO
FIT
TRAILING
EDGE
26-1/4" LONG
2
REQ'D,
~
--:-:----::,::..:._
.
-~:::::.:-----==--_-::::-=--:::
..
LEAD!
NG
EDGE
26-1/4
11
LONG
WI
NG
SPARS
26-1/4"
LONG
2
REQ'
D.

14
WING ASSEMBLY
SINCE THE WING IS BUILT IN TWO HALVES, AND STEPS
1 TO 10 ARE REPEATED IN THE PROCESS, TWO CHECK
BOXES ARE PROVIDED WITH EACH OF THESE STEPS.
ONE FOR THE RIGHT WING AND ONE FOR THE LEFT.
THE RIGHT WING IS BUILT FIRST.
DO NOi' 8UILD TWO RIGHT WINGS!
IMPORTANT!
BUILD ONE RIGHT WING
AND ONE LEFT WING
1. □ □ Position one spar in place over RIGHT WING
(or LEFT WING) on plan . Align spar end at center of
wing on plan . Hold spar in exact position by cross-
pinning at circled locations on plan. CAUTION; Do not
build two RIGHT WINGS!
2. □ □ Using no pins, set TRAILING EDGE (T.E.) in
place on plan. IMPORTANT: The T.E. has no notch at
one end-this unnotched end must be at the wing
center as shown.
□ □ Using no glue, place the following four ribs in
their respective T.E . notches: ribs nos. 2, 3, 3, & 3
hooking them over the spar as you go. Place rib wood
scrap under rib 2 as a shim to level.
□ □ Align T.E. and ribs over plan, and pin in place.
(Note: If a part appears not to "fit" the plan exactly,
don't worry, this is due to expansion and shrinkage of
the plan paper.)
□ □ Do not glue rib No. 2 at this time. Glue ribs
No. 3 to T.E. and spar.
3. □ □ Position 26" balsa LEADING EDGE (LE.) in
place over plan. Press LE. into rib recesses, holding it
tight with pins as you go.
ANGLE PINS BACK
AGAINST L.
E.
DO NOT GLUE RIB NO. 2 AT THIS TIME
□ □ Do not glue Rib No. 2 at this time. Glue ribs
No. 3 to LE .
4. □ □ Position one rear bottom sheet at rear of spar.
Place other rear bottom sheet at T.E. so it overlaps
the first one. Holding both sheets in place, trim first
sheet even with edge of second sheet.

15
HOLD PARTS DOWN FLAT WHILE GLUING
5. □ □ Glue two rear sheeting pieces together, and to
spar and
T. E.
SHIM WI TH BALSA SCRAP
TO LEVEL RI BS
6. □ □ Position and glue ribs No. 2 & 3 to L.E., spar,
bottom sheeting, and
T.E.
3
3
7a. □ □ A doubled rib is necessary at the wing tip.
Gluetwo No. 3 ribs together: applySUPER JETto one
rib, stand them next to each otherto check alignment,
then press together.
7b. □ □ Working one at a time, glue remaining ribs No.
3 to spar & T.E. only. Hold each rib up straight as it
dries.
8. □ □ The pins holding the bottom spar may obstruct
the top
spar, so remove these pins. Reposition the pins
through wing ribs if necessary to keep wing flat.
□ □ Position the Set Back Gauge (SBG) touching
the bottom spar. Touch end of top spar to gauge, and
set spar in rib slots.

16
□ □ Glue top spar to all ribs.
□ □ Glue wing tip gusset to T.E.
9. □ □ Working a few ribs at a time, apply SUPER JET
to glue loose ribs to L.E. Gently squeeze
LE. into ribs
and hold until set. Repeat until all ribs are glued to L.E.
10a. □ □ Install shear webs in wing at positions shown
on the plan as follows: Apply two lines of glue (near
top and bottom), position webs equally on spars then
press web up in place against spars until set.
Important; the webs between ribs 2 &2 and 2 &3 must
be raised slightly to provide clearance for bottom
sheeting (installed
later)-use wing rib scrap for shims
under these webs.
1 Oa. Continued
I
CRAP BALSA
SHIM

17
APPROXIMATELY
EQUAL SPACING
10b. □ □ Continue gluing webs to spars at locations
shown on plan.
11. □ Repeat steps 2 through 10 for LEFT wing.
SUPPORT WING AT 3rd RIB FROM TIP
12. □ With left wing still pinned down, position RIGHT
WING in place next to it. Raise RIGHT WING tip and
support it at 3rd rib in from tip using dihedral gauge.
Engage gauge top slot with spar.
13. □ Study entire center joint; all end parts of right wing
should just touch those of the left (tiny gaps
are
alright). If the fit between most parts is a little loose
because one part protrudes too much, slightly sand
only the protruding part for better fit. When sanding,
it is better to take off too little than too much!
□ TEMPORARILY set dihedral joiners in place on
each side of spars (for front joiner, use spacer under-
neath as shown). Use die-cut clamps provided to hold
joiners tight against spars.
JOINER
-CLAMP

18
14. □ Be sure RIGHT WING is held firmly against LEFT
WING and pin in place as shown. Remove joiners.
□ Apply a liberal amount of SUPER JET to joints of
LE., spars, sheeting, and T.E.
15. □ Apply two heavy lines of SUPER JET to one side
of both joiners, near the top and bottom. Position one
end of joiner in place and swing the other end up
against spars-hold momentarily. Repeat for other
joiner-
immediately reinstall clamps (from step 13) to hold both
joiners tight on spars.
•
16. □ Position front half of rib No . 1 so one side aligns
with center line of wing. Place rib wood scrap under
rib No. 1. Adjust rib to align with spar center joints and
L.E. joints. Glue in place .
□ Glue No . 1 rib front half to first rib , making double
thickness
center rib at center joint.

19
□ Position half of rear rib No. 1 so one side aligns
with
T.E. center joint, and bottom sheeting joint. Glue
in place. Glue back half of rib No. 1 to first, making
double thickness rib.
17a. □ Set top LE. sheeting in place, matching inboard
edge of sheet with joint between doubled ribs 1.
Tape
sheeting to LE.
IMPORTANT!
WHEN SHEETING, KEEP WING PINNED FLAT.
□ Wing tip end of sheeting can overhang end of wing,
to be sanded flush with wing tip
later.
□ Press sheeting down on top of ribs and mark
sheeting rear edge location
on top of all ribs. This mark
shows
you how far back to apply glue for the sheeting.

20
Note: in this step you will be gluing the wing top sheeting in
place-for maximum wing strength this sheeting must
be glued to all wing structure it is in contact with. SLOW
JET glue is recommended here since it gives you more
time to carefully apply glue along each rib, spar, etc.
□ With the taped edge as a hinge, lift the sheeting.
Apply glue along the entire top length of spar, L.E.
channel, and every rib (apply glue to every surface
to contact top sheeting). Proceed immediately to next
step.
□ Press top sheeting down in contact with wing struc-
ture in awiping motion to be sure all areas are glued
until dry. If you are using epoxy or aliphatic resin, pin
sheeting down until dry.
17b. □ Try top sheeting in place, trimming to fit as required.
Match edge of sheeting with the center joint of doubled
rib No. 1.