Top Flite Sierra User manual

andworkmanshipatthedateofpurchase. Thiswarrantydoesnotcoveranycomponentpartsdamaged byuse
ormodification. Innocase shallTop FliteModels' liabilityexceedthe originalcostofthe purchased kit.Further,
TopFlite reserves the right to change ormodify this warranty without notice.
Inthat Top Flitehas nocontrol over thefinal assembly ormaterial used for final assembly, noliability
shallbeassumednoracceptedforanydamageresultingfromtheusebytheuserofthefinaluser-assembled
product.
Bythe act ofusingthe user-assembled product, the useraccepts allresulting liability.
Ifthe buyer isnotprepared to acceptthe liabilityassociated with the useofthis product, heisadvised
to immediately return this kit innew and unused condition to the place of purchase.
TOP FLITE MODELS, P.O.BOX 721,URBANA, IL61801
TECHNICAL ASSISTANCE - CALL [phone]
READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTIONBOOKFIRST.ITCONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.
INSTRUCTIONBOOK
TopFliteModels guarantees this kitto befree of defects inbothmaterials
WARRANTY....

2
TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION ............................................3
Precautions....................................................3
DIEPATTERNS .............................................4
DECISIONS YOU MUSTMAKE EARLY
INTHE BUILDING SEQUENCE....................5
Engineand Mount Selection ..........................5
Other Items Required .....................................5
Supplies and Tools Needed...........................5
Common Abbreviations ..................................6
Types of Wood ...............................................6
Get Ready to Build .........................................6
Wing Tips.......................................................19
RightWing PanelAssembly...........................19
Jointhe Wing .................................................19
BoltonWing ...................................................21
Rubber Bandon Wing....................................22
Installthe Ailerons ..........................................22
Center Section Sheeting................................23
FINALASSEMBLY........................................24
Bolt-on Wings.................................................25
Rubber Band-on Wings..................................26
Mountthe TailSurfaces .................................26
Tailwheel Assembly (optional).......................27
Mountthe Engine ...........................................28
Install the FuelTank .......................................36
BALANCE YOUR MODEL ............................37
FINAL CHECKS ............................................37
PRE-FLIGHT
Charge the Radio Batteries............................38
Find a Safe Place to Fly .................................38
Ground Check theModel...............................38
Range Check your Radio ...............................38
USINGGLUE .................................................6
ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS...............38
NOTESONSANDING...................................7
BUILDTHE TAIL SURFACES ......................7
HingeSlots.....................................................8
BUILDTHE FUSELAGE ...............................9
BUILDTHE WING .........................................16
Guide Tool......................................................16
LeftWing Panel Assembly .............................16
NoAileron Version .........................................18
AileronVersion...............................................19
FINISHING.....................................................30
Balancethe Airplane Laterally.......................30
FinalSanding .................................................30
Covering.........................................................30
Covering Tips UsingMonokote®......................30
RecommendedCovering Sequence..............31
FuelProofing..................................................31
Hinging...........................................................31
FinalControl Hookup.....................................32
Aileron Control Hookup..................................33
How to Make Z-bends ....................................33
Control Surface Throws .................................34
Apply Decals and Trim ............................35,36
InstallReceiver, Battery, Switch.....................36
AMA SAFETY CODE ....................................39
General ..........................................................39
Radio Control.................................................39
FIRST FLIGHTS ............................................39
Take Off.........................................................40
Flying..............................................................40
Landing ..........................................................41
LandingPatternDrawings..............................41
PARTS LIST ..................................................43
2-VIEW DRAWING ........................................44

WARNING! THIS ISNOT A TOY!
The model you will buildfrom this kitisnota toy! Itiscapable of serious bodily harm
and property damage. ITISYOUR RESPONSIBILITY AND YOURS ALONE - to build
this kitcorrectly, properly install all R/C components to test flythe model, and flyit
ONLY with experienced, competent help using common sense and inaccordance with
allsafety standards as set down inthe Academy of Model Aeronautics Safety Code.
Itissuggested that you join the AMA to become properly insured before you attempt
to fly the model. IFYOU ARE JUST STARTING R/C MODELING, CONSULT YOUR
LOCAL HOBBY SHOP OR WRITE TO THE ACADEMY OF MODEL AERONAUTICS
TO FINDAN EXPERIENCED FLYING INSTRUCTOR INYOUR AREA.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
1810Samuel Morse Drive
Reston, VA 22090 [phone]
INTRODUCTION
Thank you forpurchasing the TopFlite
GOLD EDITION Sierra.
TheTop FliteSierra isanexcellenttrainermodel
designed to getyou off to a great start inlearning to
buildandfly.Afteryou learntofly,theSierraalsohas
enough maneuverabilityto perform mostbasicaero-
batics and provide manyhours flying enjoyment.
The easy construction, great lines,andincluded
decalsmake iteasy for you to builda great-looking
model.
TheTop FliteSierraisdesignedtoflyasgoodas
itlooks. Itsthick, flat-bottom wing offersstrong liftat
slow speeds and great strength. The computer-
designed, interlockingstructure allowsyouto build a
straight andtrue modelwith smooth confidence-
boostingflight qualities.
Please inspect allparts carefully before
starting to build!Ifany parts are missing, broken
ordefective, orifyou have any questions about
building orflying this model, please call usat
[phone]and we'll beglad to help.Ifyou
are calling for replacement parts, pleaselook up
the part numbers and the kitidentification num-
ber(stamped onthe end ofthe carton) and have
them ready when calling.
PRECAUTIONS
1.You must build the planeaccording to the plans
and instructions. Donotalter or modify the model,
asdoingso may result inanunsafe or unflyable
model. Inafewcasestheplansand instructionsmay
differslightlyfromthephotos. Inthose instancesyou
shouldassumethe plansand written instructionsare
correct.
3
2.You musttake your time to buildstraighttrue
andstrong.
3.You mustuse a proper R/C radio that isinfirst
class condition, the correct engine size and correct
components (fuel tank. wheels, etc.) throughout
your building process.
4.You mustproperly install allR/C andothercom-
ponentssothat the model operates properly onthe
groundandinthe air.
5.You must test the operation of the model before
thefirstand each successive flight to insure that all
equipment isoperating, and to make certain thatthe
modelhas remained structurally sound. Besure to
check external nylon clevises often. Replace them
iftheyshow signs ofwear.
6.You mustfly the modelonly with the competent
helpof a well experienced R/C pilot,ifyou are not
already anexperienced R/Cpilotat this time.
NOTE:We, as the kitmanufacturer, can provide
you with a top quality kitand great instructions,
butultimately the quality and flyability of your
finished model depends onhow you buildit;
therefore, we cannot inany way guarantee the
performance of your completed model,and no
representations are expressed orimplied as to
the performance orsafety ofyour completed
model.
Remember: Take yourtimeandfollowthedi-
rections to completea well-builtmodelthatis
straight and true.

4
DIEPATTERNS

5
EARLY INTHE
BUILDING SEQUENCE
ENGINEAND MOUNT SELECTION
Therecommended enginesizerangeisasfol-
lows:
.28-.40-.46 cu. in. 2-cycle
.40-.48-.60 cu. in.4-cycle
NOTE: The displacement inboldtype isthe
mosthighlyrecommended. However, all of
these engines will fly the Sierra well.
The supplied MM40 motor mount should
holdmost of the two strokes inthe range and
some of the fourstrokes. Itispermissible to file
theinsideofthemountslightlytofitlargerengines
(see photo onpage 28). Some engines may
require you to buy a differentmount fromyour
hobby dealer. Study the plans and the engine
mountingsectionofthisbookformoreinformation
and sample installations.
BOLT-ON OR
RUBBER BAND-ON WINGS
The Sierra has been designed and tested
with rubber band-on or bolt-on wings. The rub-
ber bandon wings willbetter absorb the shocks
ofacrashorlandingaccidentsuchasacartwheel.
Ifyou have a good instructor and flying site or
already have some flyingexperience, you may
want to use the bolt-on wing option.
3OR 4 CHANNELS
The Sierra fliesvery well with orwithout
ailerons. The 3-channel version will be cheaper
andeasiertobuild. The4-channel version offers
the extraflexibility of aileron control. Ailerons
make cross wind take offs and landingseasier
to control, so manyinstructors recommend
ailerons.
TRICYCLE OR TAILDRAGGER
GEAR
The tricycle landinggear isconsidered
standard. We recommend the tricycle gear if
this isyour first airplane because itoffersthe
bestground handling aswell as straightahead
take offsand landings. The tricyclegear also
does a better job of protecting the propeller
during bouncy take offsand landings. Ifyou
are sportflying the Sierra orwantto learn to fly
ataildragger, provisions have been made to
allow you to build the Sierra as a taildragger.
The Great Planes #L-7 tail wheel assembly
may be purchased fromyour dealer and
modified slightly to match the drawing on the
fuselage plans.
SELECTION OF WHEELS
The standard recommended wheels are
two 2-3/4" mainwheels and one 2-1/2" nose
wheel. Ifyou are flying offgrass oranuneven
surface, you may wish to use larger wheels
than those recommended. The standard
wheels have beentested offofgrass and work
fine, but 3" wheels allthe way around would
work even better.
Ifyou willbe flyinga taildragger off of
grass, we recommend using 3" to 3-1/4" main
wheels and a 1"to1-1/4"tailwheel.
OTHER ITEMSREQUIRED
Three or Four-channel radio with 3 or 4 servos
Engine
Propellers (Top Flite Power Pointrecommended-see
engine instructions forsizes)
2-1/4" Prop Spinner
Fuel Tank (Most 6 to 10oz. tanks willtit)
2-3/4" Main Wheels (2)
2-1/2" Nose Wheel (1) (or 1"Tailwheel)
5/32" Wheel Collars - (4-6)
Top Flite MonoKote"
*Model shown covered with 2 rollsofYellow, plusMissile
Red, and Orange fortrim
Silicone Fuel Tubing
Latex Foam Rubber Padding(1/4" thick)
#64 Rubber Bands (10-12 forrubber band-on wings)
1/8"Foam Wing Seating Tape (optional)
SUGGESTED SUPPLIES
AND TOOLS
2oz.ThinCAAdhesive(HobbicoBulletGlueisRecommended)
2oz. Medium CA Adhesive (Hobbico BulletGlueisRecom-
mended)
15-Minute Epoxy (Hobbico BulletGlueisRecommended)
Hand or Electric Drill
Drill Bits: 1/16", 3/32", 1/8", 5/32", 3/16", 1/4"
Top Flite Heat Sealing Tool
Top Flite Heat Gun
Hobby Saw (X-actoRazor Saw)
X-actoKnife, #11Blades
Pliers
Screw Drivers
T-Pins
Straightedge
Short ruler
MaskingTape (Suggestedforconstruction)
Sandpaper (coarse, medium,finegrit)*
T-Bar Sanding Block (orsimilar)
Waxed Paper
Lightweight Balsa Filler
1/4-20 Tap. Tap Wrench (optional boltonwings)
IsopropyI Rubbing Alcohol (70%)
Dremel Moto Tool or similar (optional)
NOTE: On our workbench, we have four 11" T-Bar sanders,
equipped with #80, #100, #150, and #220-grit sandpaper. This
setup isall that is required for almost any sanding task.
Sanding blocks can bemade from balsa for sanding hard to
reach spots. We alsokeep some #320-grit wet-or-dry
sandpaperhandy for finish sandingbeforecovering

6
COMMON ABBREVIATIONS USED
INTHIS BOOK AND ON THE PLANS:
Deg. = Degrees Lt= Left
Elev = Elevator Ply= Plywood
Fuse= Fuselage Fit= Right
LE= Leading Edge(front)Stab = Stabilizer
LG =Landing Gear TE = Trailing Edge(rear)
=Boxto checkafterstep" = Inches
iscompleted.
BalsaBasswood Plywood
GETREADY TO BUILD
1.Unroll the plan sheets. Re-roll the plans inside
outto make them lieflat. The wing plan sheet hasa
cut-line across it. Ifyou have a small building space
you may cut the wing plan into two pieces along this
line.
Thefuselageplan sheetdoes nothaveacut-line
across it. Itisused mostly forreference and not
much building isdone over it.There isnotmuch
benefit incutting itapart, butyou may doso ifyou
wish.
2. Remove all parts fromthe box. Asyou do,
figure outthe name of each part by comparing itwith
the plans, die-cut patterns, and the parts list at the
back ofthis book. Using a felttip pen, writethe part
name orsize on each piece to avoid confusion later.
Usethe die-cut patterns shown on page 4 to identify
thedie-cutparts and markthembefore punchingout.
Saveallscraps. Ifanyofthe die-cut parts aredifficult
to punch out, do not forcethem! Instead, firstcut
aroundthepartswithanX-actoknife. Afterpunching
outthe die-cutparts, useyourT-Barorsanding block
to lightly sand the edges to remove anydie-cutting
irregularities.
USINGGLUE
There aretwo types ofgluethat are recom-
mendedforbuilding this model: CA and Epoxy.
CA (cyanoacrylate) glue isused for gen-
eral construction. Itisavailable ina variety of
viscosities. We recommend you have the fol-
lowing two types.
ThinCA has a viscosity similar to water
and isused to glue together parts that fit
together very well and donotrequire reposi-
tioning after glue isapplied. Thin CA isespe-
cially effectiveforgluing balsa to balsa. Itcan
beused to glue hardwoods such as plywood,
spruce, or bass but itisusually necessary to
filletthejointafterwards with some medium CA.
Thin CA hasthe abilityto "wick" intojoints. This
means itwill bedrawn into very finegaps
between parts. This characteristic makes thin
CA very useful fora lot oftasks, such as gluing
seams that are already clamped together or
installing CA hinges. Thin CA usually setsvery
rapidly, so do not expect to move parts at all
after glue is applied. This rapid reaction may
also produce fumes and a significantamountof
heat. Always useCA glues ina well-ventilated
area.
The other typeof CA glue we recommend
ismedium(or gap filling).Medium CA isused
in general construction forparts which have
gaps,requireslight repositioning,or involve
hardwoods. Medium CA can beused to make
small filletsbetween parts inhigh stress areas.
Medium CA isa very good general purpose
glue and many people useitforthe majority of
theirbuilding.
Some medium CAgluescan beslowtoset,
especially when used to fillgaps. A product
known as CA accelerator isavailable to speed
things up.Itissprayed onto the joint after the
glue isapplied and chemically reacts with the
glue causing itto set very rapidly. There are a
fewprecautions to consider when using an
accelerator...
Useitina well ventilated area. Therapid
reaction can release irritating fumes ata higher
ratethan normal.DonotuseCAacceleratoron
thin CA!
Becareful when usingthe accelerator
around plastics. Certain accelerators may
attack some plastics and the vapors may fog
clearcanopies. Itisbest to test the glue and
accelerator on a scrap piece of plastic ifoneis
available.
Using too much acceleratormay cause the
CA glue to react very rapidly andliterally boil.
Thiswill result inajointwith achalkywhite color
which isnotnearly as strong as a normaljoint.
Epoxy isused onhigh-stress joints that
require toughness andvibration resistance.
Epoxy also works wellinareas that may en-
counter fuel.Its slower cure time allows parts
to beclamped, checked, and realigned ifnec-
essary before the epoxy sets. Epoxy isavail-
ableinmany different formulas having different
cure times. The single best type of epoxy to
have available when building yourSierra isone
thatsets in15minutes, but you may also find 5-
minute epoxy handy to have around.
them into groups, such as fuse (fuselage), wing, fin
and stab (stabilizer), andhardware.
3.As you identify and mark the parts, separate

7
NOTES ON SANDING
1.UseablockorT-barwhereeverpossible when
sanding. The flat block will "ignore" glue and
changing wood density andgive you a true and
even shape.
2. Alwaysusefresh, sharpsandpaper. Sharp
sandpaperwill cut through glue and hard mate-
rials easily, giving aneven surface. Older, dull
sandpaper will require more pressure and may
gouge the surface.
1/4"shaped balsa fin fwd
1/4"shaped balsa fin aft
1/4"shaped balsa rudder
1/4"shaped balsa stab fwd
1/4"shaped balsa stab aft
Tapered balsa elevator
1/8"bent wire elevator joiner
BUILDTHE TAIL
SURFACES
Tobuildthetailsurfaces, you will need thefollowing:
of a paper towel to make sandingeasier. Flipthe
partsover and apply some thinCA tothe other side
of the joint.
3.The notch inthe shaped 1/4" balsa stab aft
pieceispositioned atthebackedgeofthestab sothe
fin post can protrude through the notch later when
you aretold toattach thetail surfacestothefuselage.
Glue the shaped 1/4" balsa stab (stabilizer) fwd to
the stab aft inthe same manner asthe fin parts.
150grit sandpaper to smooth out any unevenness.
Carefullyblock sand the edges and ends to correct
any slight bumps or mismatches. Align the notch at
the back edge of the stab and the stab TE with the
plans. Mark the finlocation on the frontedge of the
stab. Draw two lines fromthese marks to the notch
inthe aft edge of the stab.
5. Refer to the cross section on the plans. Use
asanding block to round the stab leading edge
(except the flattened center portion). Mark the
location of the dorsal fin on the forward edge of the
fin using the plans as a guide and round the finonly
abovethedorsalfin.Thefin,rudder, andstabshould
have their tip edge corners rounded slightly for
easier covering (see the cross sections onthe fuse-
lage plans).
1.Work ona flat surface coveredwith waxed
paper. Refer to the planstoidentifythe partsand
their locations.
2.Putthe shaped 1/4"balsa fin fwd, fin aft, and
the1/4"x 3/8" x 8-7/8" balsa fin post together and
check how the parts fit.Block sand the mating
surfaces until they fit well. Hold the parts together
tightly and glue them together with thin CA. Imme-
diatelywipe off any excess glue with a quick stroke 4. Blocksand the surfaces of the fin andstabwith
6.Use a smooth ballpointpento draw a

8
centerlinealong the stabtrailing edge, taperedbalsa
elevator leading edge, fin trailing edge, andshaped
1/4"balsarudder leading edge.
7.Referring to the cross sections on the plans,
carefully block sand the elevator and rudder leading
edges to a "V" shape. The centerlines you drew
earlier should remain forhinging later.
NOTE:Therudder may beleft at a constant
thickness of 1/4" oryou may taper itwith a
sanding block to match the top view on the
fuselage plans. Fora model that travels at a
relatively slow speed such as this one, itisnot
necessaryto taperthe rudderto make the aircraft
fly properly. Ifyou wantto taper itforappearance
reasons,thatisfine.
shown on the plans and inthe photo.This will make
iteasier to align the elevators.
10.Laythe elevators and the elevatorjoiner over
the plans. Mark wherethe joinerwill insert into the
elevators. Start the hole inthe elevators bycutting
asmall 1/8" square notch with a sharp #11knife.
Carefully drill a 1/8" hole into each elevator to the
depth shown on the plans. Use the knife to cut a
groove inthe frontof the elevator atthe root end for
the joiner (as shown inthe photo).
11. Makesurethejoinerwirewillfitall theway into
each elevator and that both elevators lieflaton the
worksurfacewiththejoinerinstalled. Bendthejoiner
wireifnecessary to make the elevators line upwith
each other. Rough upthe joinerwirewithcoarse
sandpaper and clean itwithalcohol. Mix some 5-
minute epoxy and use atooth pick or piece ofwireto
push the epoxy into the hole and groove inthe
elevator. Push thejoinerinto the elevators and wipe
away any excess glue. Lay the parts over the plans
to aid inalignmentwhile the glue sets. Itisimportant
that the elevator LEisstraight so you will not have
problems when you hinge itlater.
12. Afterthe epoxyiscured apply some thin CA
to both sides of the balsa elevator over the joiner to
'harden' the area. Sand the cured glue smooth.
13.Placethefinand staboverthe plansandmark
the hinge locations on the trailing edges. Transfer
the locations onto the elevator and rudderleading
edges.
8. Holdthetaperedelevatorstock overthe plans
and mark the locations of the cuts atthe center
where the elevator iscut away to allow forrudder
movement. Usea razorsawtocutawaythe rightand
left elevators.
9. Locatethe bent1/8"wire elevatorjoiner. Use
An alternate method to make a groove ina surface
fora torque rod isto sharpen the end of an appropri-
ately sized (1/8") brass tube from the inside with a
#11 knife, then usethe tube to cut out the notch for
the torque rod.
14. Cut the hinge slots using the technique
aflat fileor a grinder to taper the ends slightly asdescribed on the following page.

9
CAUTION!!! You must use extreme care to
avoid cutting yourselfwhen cutting hinge
slotswithan X-actoknife. Ifthebalsabreaks
whileyou are pushing ontheknife,the blade
could go into your hand before you know it!
Agood precaution isto wear leather gloves
while performing this step.
A. Begin bycarefullycutting a very shallow slit
atthe hinge location. Thisfirstcutistoestablish your
cut inthe right place, so concentrate on staying on
thecenterline and don't cut too deep!
B.Makethree orfourmore cuts inthe same line,
going slightly deeper each time. As you make
these additional cuts, work on going straight into the
wood. Continue this process while "wiggling" the
knife handle forwardand backward until the blade
hasreached theproper depth forthe hinge.
C.Trial fitthe hinge into the slot. Ifthe hinge is
difficultto push in,re-insert the knife and move it
backandforth inthe slot a fewtimes to enlarge the
slot.
BUILDTHE FUSELAGE
1.Placethefuselageplansideviewonyourwork
table.Cover itwith waxed paper.
2.Use thin CA to gluethe separately die-cut
cornerof the die-cut 1/8" balsa upperforwardfuse
sides inplace as shown inthe photo. These parts
are located inthe same die-cut sheets (SIE4F07).
Remember that you will bemaking a right anda left
fuselage side. You may wish to glue from opposite
sidesof the wood inorder to reduce sanding.
NOTE: The plans may shrink orexpand slightly
dueto humidity. Donotworry ifthe parts are not
exactly thesamesizeas theplans.
4. Plug the die-cut 1/8" balsa aft fuse sides into
the forward fuse sides. Sand them lightly ifneces-
sary to make them fit.Before gluing besure to align
the partsoverthe plans. Any "bend" inthe fuse sides
willcause the fuselage to twist later. When the fuse
sidesare well alignedwiththe plans, gluetheforward
and aftpieces together with thin CA. Add medium
CA to any jointsthat are nottight fitting.
15.Trial fitthe hinges inthe slots and trial fitthe
rudder andelevator inplace on the finand stab. Do
notgluethe hinges untilafter you have covered
the model.
3.Glue the upper forwardfuse sides to the die-
cut 1/8" balsa lower forward fuse sides using thin
CA. Markthe insidesurfaceofthefusesideswith the
letters 'R'and 'Lto designate the inside of the Right
andLeft fuselage sides. Besure to make a RIGHT
anda LEFTfuselage side.
5.Usea sanding block to sand smoothallofthe
joints you have made onthe fuse sides.
6.Position thedie-cut 1/8"balsa rear fuse
doublerinitsplaceontheinsidesurface atthe rear

10
ofthe fuselage side. Use the die-cut 1/8"plywood
former F-5to helpyou position the doubler (do not
gluetheformer inuntil toldtodoso later).Noticethat
the pushrod exit holes do notline up(this isnormal
and makes the pushrod installation inlater steps
easier). Apply several beads of medium CA to the
doubler and position iton the fuselage side. When
itisaligned properly, press itfirmlydown to spread
out the beads of glue. Repeat this step forthe other
side.Besure to make a RIGHT and a LEFT.
fuselage doubler over the insideof the fuselage
sides. Notice that itshould fitperfectly at the very
front of the fuselage, and then beoffset 1/8"infrom
the edge of the fuselage sides most ofthe rest of the
way back. The photos and plans will help you
determine the proper location of the doublers. Use
the frontedges and the lock notch inthe fuse side
near the lower aft portionof the doublerto alignthe
doubler.
8.ApplymediumCAtothedoublerandpressit
carefully inposition. Apply thin CA around the all
edges of the doubler to reinforce it. Glue the
doublers to the insideof both the left and the right
fuse sides.
AT THIS POINTYOU MUST DECIDE
WHETHER YOU ARE GOING TO BUILD
ATAILDRAGGER OR A TRIKE GEAR
MODEL. THE POSITION OF THE LANDING
GEAR DOUBLER (GD) DEPENDS ON THIS.
area.The die-cut 1/8"plywood geardoublers (GD)
may beplaced intwo different positions (forward for
taildraggergear, aftfortrike gear). Note alsothe off-
center slot inthe doubler. The slot should beoff-
center toward the aft end of the leftfuselage side,
and the forwardend of the right fuselage side.Glue
the gear doublers inthe position chosen.
10.Glue the rightand left die-cut 1/8"balsa
forward fuse bottompieces together with thin CA.
Add medium CA to anygaps.
11.Glue the right and left die-cut 1/8"balsa
middlefuse bottom pieces together with thin CA.
Place the die-cut 1/8"balsa aft fuse bottom piece
into the notch at the back end of the middle fuse
bottom. Noticethatthere isa gapinthe middle. This
isforformer F-4 to key into later. Check that these
parts are properly aligned by positioning them over
the fuselage top view on the plans. Gluewith thin
CA. Add medium CA to any gaps.
9.Study the fuselage plans inthe landing gear

11
NOTE: At this point you should determine ifyou
needto usethe 9mm x 2" x 2" plywood spacer
plate inyour engine installation. Study the
engine installation drawings on the fuse plan
sheet. Short engines such as the OS .40FP
require the use of this plate. Longer engines
such as the OS .40SF or4-cycle engines do not
require the use ofthis plate.
12.Glue the right and left die-cut 1/8"balsa aft
fuse top pieces together withthin CA. Note the die-
cut "bumps" at the aft end of the aft fuse top. Trim
these off with a straightedge and a sharp knife.
13.Usemedium CA to gluethe die-cut 1/8"
plywood firewallF-1A (1A) to F-1B (1B). F-1A is
centered on the slightly larger F-1 B.Make sure the
side of F-1A withthe punch marks on itremains
visible. (See the photo at step 14).
NOTE: Forthe following steps, refer to the firewall
cross section drawing onthe fuselage plans. Atthis
pointyou must knowwhich engine you will use.Ifyou
are using a recommended 2-cycle engine which fits
into the supplied mount, all the punch marks onF-1A
will bedrilledto their appropriate size (in thefollowing
steps). Ifyou are using a 4-cycle engineor an engine
that requires a different mount, you will needto
determinethemounting,throttlepushrodexit,steering
pushrod exit, and fuel line exit holelocations for your
installation. (HINT: Use the four standard mount
punchmarks on F-1A to helpyou locate an alternate
mount bydrawing an "X" between them to find the
enginecenterline). Regardless which engine you are
using,mount itonthis centerline.
14.Ifyou are usingthe supplied mount, drill the
four punch marks inthe middleof F-1with a 5/32"
drill.Usethe firewall (F-1) cross-sectionon the
fuselage plans to positively identify these hole loca-
tions. Whileyou have the 5/32" drill bitout, drill 5/32"
holes through the two punch marks inthe die-cut
1/8"plylandinggear plate (LGP).
15.Drill1/4"fuel lineexit holes atthetop edge
of F-1.The punch mark locations shouldbeOK for
mostengine installations.
16.Drilla3/16"throttle pushrodholeinF-1inthe
locationyou determined. A punch markindicates
the "standard" pushrod exit location.
17.Ifyouareusingthetricyclelandinggear,drill
a3/16" pushrod exit holeinF-1 at the appropriate
punchmark location.
18.Drill 3/16" pushrod holes atthe punch marks
indie-cut 1/8" plywood formersF-2 (2), F-3(3), and
F-4(4). Refer to the cross-sections onthe fuselage
plans to confirm the pushrod locations.
the MM40 motor mount on one side of the plate and
markthe fourmounting hole locations. Drillthe holes
inthe spacer plate with a 1/8" drill bit.
19.Ifyou are using the 9mm spacer plate, center
4-40 x 1"Machine Screw No.4 FlatWasher
20.Gently tap the 4-40 blind nuts into the back
(F-1B)side ofthefirewall.Boltthe motormount (and
the 9mm spacer if required) to the firewallusing the
supplied 4-40 x 1" machine screws and #4 wash-
ers. Carefully apply a small drop of thin CA to the

12
1/8"plywood former F-5(5) inplace to confirm a
goodfit.
perimeter of theflange on each 4-40 blindnut.
Remove the motormount.
21. Use a small round fileto blend the pushrod
exitsatthe aftend of both the fuselage sides to allow
the outer pushrod tubes to exitat the proper angle
as shown on thefuselagetopviewand inthe photos.
Ifyou do not have a file,use a #11knife to shape the
pushrod exits as shown inthe photo. Hold die-cut
IMPORTANT NOTE: All formers(F-1 through
F-5) are glued inwith the stamped numbers
facing forward and upright as shown inthe
photos. This isnecessary to maintain proper
pushrod routing.
22. Use medium CA to gluethedie-cut 1/8"
plywood former F-2Bto the leftfuselage side. Use a
90degreetriangleto keep the former perpendicular
tothe fuse side while gluing.
23.Glue the die-cut 1/8"plywood former F-3to
the left fuse side inthe same manner as F-2.(The
photo for this step isatthe top of the next column).
24. Pushthe 1/4"plywing boltplateinto position
just ahead of F-3 but do notglue yet. Ifthe fitof this
plate istoo tight,sand itslightlytillitfitscomfortably.
(Install this plate forstrength even ifyou are using
rubberband-on wings.)
sidestructure. When allthe alignment tabsonF-2

13
and F-3 are thoroughly engaged bythe right fuse-
lage side, turn the fuselage upright as shown inthe
photo and apply medium CA glue to the joints of the
right fuse side and F-2 and F-3.
26.Seethe photoabove step 29 for the proper
position and orientation of the die-cut 1/8" plywood
former F-4. Use medium CA to glue formerF-4 inits
place between the fuselage sides. Snap the die-cut
1/8" plywood former F-5into position at the back of
the fuselage butdonotglue yet; instead, use some
masking tape to hold the fuselage together. Re-
memberalloftheformerI.D.numbersfaceforward.
sembled earlier) into position between the fuselage
sides, sanding ifnecessary fora good fit. Usesome
masking tape to hold the fuse together. tween the fuselage sides. Use a strip of masking
tape to hold the fuse sides together at the front. Do
notgluethe firewall yet.
28. Work the aftfuselagebottom pieces(as-
30.Position the firewall(F-1A/B) inplacebe-
27.Snap the landinggear plate (LGP) into29. Check the previously assembled, unglued 31.(Ifyou are making the taildragger version, put
position atthe fuse bottom. Ifyou are building a
taildragger, makea duplicate of LGP (butwithoutthe
holes) out of scrap 1/8" balsa and substitute itat the
tricycleLGP location. The plywood LGP will be
installed instep31 forthe taildragger.Check to see
that the holes forthe landing gear line upwith the
slots inthe gear doublers (GD). Donotglue yet.
parts forfitand alignment. Correct any problems.
Apply medium CA from the inside of the fuselage to
any unglued joints involving the followingparts: F-3,
F-4, F-5,and LGP. Use thin CA to glue the fuse
bottom to the fusesides fromits frontedge back to
F-5.The very aft portion will beglued later when the
tailsurfacesare installed.
the 1/8" plywood LGP inplace betweenthefuselage
sides atthe taildragger position shown on the fuse-
lageplans.) Workthe 1/8"forwardfusebottomsheet
joined earlier intoposition between the fuselage
sides. Use masking tape to holdthe fuse bottom in
place.
32. Flexthe fuselage sides outward andapply
mediumCA or epoxy to the edges of the firewall.
Use masking tape to hold the joint closed while the

14
glue cures. Gluethe forward bottom sheetingto the
fusesides, thefirewall, LGP, andformer F-2with thin
CA followed with a fillet of medium CA.
member (FC) to the forward bottom sheeting as
shown on the fuse plan sideview. This piece simply
stiffens the fuselage floor inthe tank area.
rudderandelevator pushrods.Gluethem securely
to the fuselage sides, F-5,F-4,andF-3.
33.Glue the die-cut 1/8"balsa fuselage cross
36.Trialfitthedie-cut 1/8" plywoodbackwindow
34. Sand the outside of two of the 24" outer
35. Snap the previously joined aft fuse top into
place on top of the fuselage. Use masking tape to
hold the fuse top inplace. Wick thin CA glue into its
joints with the fusesides and the formers. Donot
gluethe area behind F-5yet. Removethe tape and
runthin CA down the joints again to make sure they
are thoroughly glued.
(BW) inits place on the fuse top. Refer to the
fuselage side view;forbest results, bevel the fore
and aft edges of the window to provide a better fit.
HINT:To eliminate difficultsanding later, round the
"lock tabs" on the outside edges of the plywood
windows to a radius similarto that shown on the plan
cross-sections before gluing the windows in.
37.Gluethe backwindow inwith thinCA.Then
addsome mediumCA ifrequired.
38.Wick thin CA intoalljoints involving the wing
boltplate. Afterthis hascured, applyafilletofepoxy
or medium CA around the wing boltplate.
pushrod tubes so glue will stick to them. Work
these intoposition as shown onthe plansfor the

15
39. Round the outside of the "lock tabs" on the
die-cut 1/8" plywoodfront window(FW)as you did
onthe back window. Fitthe front window into place.
Glue with thin and medium CA. You may round the
corners of the fuselage to match the cross sections
asyou go, oryou maywait untilthe fuselage isdone.
40.Sand the edges of the die-cut 1/8"plywood
fuel tank hatch tillthey are smooth. Test fitthe
hatch inplace. Trim the hatch ortrim back the notch
inthe frontof the fuseside doublers until the hatch
fits well. Round the right and left edges of the hatch
to a radius likethat shown inthe firewall (F-1) cross
section.
41. UseCAtogluethedie-cut1/8"plywoodhatch
retainertabtothe inside ofthe hatch as shown inthe
photo and on the fuse side view.
indicate the location ofthe No.2 x 3/8" sheet metal
screws used to hold the hatch on. Check to make
sure these will direct the screws into the firewall.
Tapethe hatch inplace onthe fuselage. Drill a 1/16"
holethrough the punchmarks into the firewall.Re-
move the hatch and enlarge the holes inthe hatch
onlyto 3/32". Screw the hatch down with the sheet
metal screws to confirm a good fit.
cuta gapinthe forward fuse bottom sheetingunder
No.2 x 3/8SheetMetalScrew
42. The punchmarks inthe front ofthe hatch
43. Ifyouarebuildingataildragger, you needto
theLGPtoallowthemainlandinggeartobeinstalled
(as shown on the fuselage plans). The pre-cut 1/8"
x9/32" x 3-3/4" plywood LGaligner strips are the
same ones used forthe tricycle gear. Fillthe gap in
the 1/8" balsa bottom sheeting atthe tricycle gear
location with scrap 1/8"balsa.
44.Test fitthe wire main landing gear into the
holesinthefusebottom. Inorderforthelanding gear
to lieflaton the bottom ofthe fuse,itisnecessary to
remove a little material fromthe inside edge of the
5/32" holesto allow forthe bends inthe wire. Dothis
with a round file or a knife.
45.Putthe two bentwire main landing gear
piecesinplace on the fuselage bottom. Slide the
pre-cut1/8"x9/32"x3-3/4"plywoodLGalignerstrips
inplace foreand aft ofthe main landing gear. Sand
the edges of the strips ifnecessary fora good fit.
Gluethese strips inplace with medium CA, being
careful notto glue inthe landing gear wires.

16
NylonLanding Gear Strap
No.2 x 3/8 Sheet
Metal Screw
46. Putthe mainlandinggearbackinpositionand
placetwo molded nylon landing gear straps over
the wireLGas shown inthe picture. Mark, then drill
four 1/16" pilot holes. Use fourNo.2 x 3/8" sheet
metal screws tohold down the LGstraps. The
landinggear mayberemoved untilafter covering.
Thiscompletesthebasicconstructionofthe
fuselage.
BUILDTHEWING
NOTE:TheSIERRAwing, much likethe fuse, is
designedsoallthe majorcomponents can befit
togetherwithout glue.This allows you to check
thatthepiecesareproperlyfitandalignedbefore
applyingglueto the joints. The wing planmay
becut inhalfalongthe lineprovided ifyou wish.
1.Tape the LEFTWING PANEL portion ofthe
planover your work surface. (The bestwork surface
isa very flatboard that you can pininto."Celotex,"
atype of board you can find ata hardware store or
home center, isanexample of one). Cover the left
wing panel section with waxed paper so you won't
glue the wing to the plan.
2. Assemblethe wing guidetool fromthe die-cut
1/8"plywood pieces marked "G". The "0"degree
(from vertical) side of the tool can beused to check
the ribs to see if they are vertical. The "4"degree
side will beused later. Donotgluethe tool to-
gether.
3. The shaped and notched balsa leadingedges
andtrailing edges arejoined by a thin layerofbalsa.
These are cut apart inone of twoways:
A. Breakthe pieces apart and cleanupthe
roughedgeswith a sanding block.
-OR-
Holdknifeatanangle
whencuttingapart
LEADINGEDGE
B.Carefully run a knife down the edge between
the parts to cut them cleanly apart.
NOTE: TheSierrawasdesignedtouse
symmetrical leadingand trailing edges (they
have notop orbottom). They do, however, have
aroot end and a tip end.
4. The tip ends of the leading and trailing edges
arethe ends with a notch very closetothe end.Mark
the leading andtrailing edges witha "T" to designate
the tip. T-Pins
T-Pins
Spar
Work Surface
5.Usethe criss-cross pin technique shown in
the illustration to pina 3/8" x 3/8" x 30" balsa spar
over itslocation on the plans. Pinthe spar in3 or 4
places. (The photo forthis step isatthe top of the
next column)
Xactoknife

17
TWOWARPED SPARSINSTALLED
THISWAYWILL RESULT IN A
STRAIGHTWING
TWOWARPED SPARS INSTALLED
THISWAYWILLRESULT INA
WARPED WING
Photofor Step 5
6.Remove the wing ribs R-1's, R-2's, and
R-3's from the die-cut sheets. Slide twelve 3/32"
balsaR-3 ribsintoplace on the bottom spar.
8.Insertthe backoftheribsintothenotches
inthe trailingedge.
NOTE:Theplans may shrink orexpand slightly
dueto humidity. Donotworry ifthe parts are not
exactly the same size as the plans.
9.Adjust the positions of the leading and
trailing edges leftor rightuntil the ribslineupwith the
plans.Pintheleadingandtrailingedgestotheboard
sothey won't move.
10.Lay twopieces ofscrap 1/16" balsa (from
the die-cut center section sheeting SIE4W05 or
SIE4W06) nearthe leading andtrailingedges under
thelocation of rib R-2(thiswill shim uptheribtoallow
for the sheeting later). Push rib R-2into place as
shown on the plans. Make sure the ends of the rib
engagethenotchesintheleadingandtrailingedges.
11.Insertthe3/8"x3/8"x30"topsparintothe
notches inthe ribs.
12.Make sure allthe R-3 ribs and the leading
and trailingedges are resting on the flatwork sur-
face. Make sure the ribs are inserted all the way into
the notches. The "guide tool" isused to check that
the ribsare vertical.
13.Apply thin CA to allthejoints involvingthe
ribs,spars,leadingedges,andtrailingedges.
NOTE: When gluing the spars to R-2, make sure
the spars are centered between the dihedral
bracenotches inR-2.
7.Insert the front ofthe ribsintothe notches
14. Removethe pinsholdingthe sparinplace
inthe leading edge. Rememberto orientthe LEwith
the "T" at the tip. butleave the panel pinned flat onthe boardbythe
leadingand trailingedges.

18
15.With the panel held flat on the table, use
medium CA to glue inthe pre-cut 1/16" x 1-1/2" x2"
balsa shear webs between the R-3 Ribs. Refer to
the plans. Notice there are shear webs on both
sides of the spars outside the firsttwo R-3 ribs and
only behindthe spars between the remainder of
the R-3's.
NOTE:Thefunction oftheshearwebs isto keep
the sparsfrom collapsing. They will notand need
nottouch orbeglued to the ribs. They should be
thoroughly glued to the spars.
16.Make sure thewingpanelisstilllinedup
properlyover the plan.
17.Position the 4 deg. side of the guidetool
exactlywherethe end ofthe bottom sparisshown on
the plans. Use a pen to mark an angled line on the
top and bottomspars.
18.Use the guide tool to mark angled lines on
the leading andtrailing edges from where their
bottom ends are shown on the plans.
19.Usea razorsawto cut offthe spars and the
leading and trailing edges at the marked angles. A
T-bar isused to "clean up"the angled ends of the
spars, leading edges, and trailing edges.
20.Usea razorsawandaT-bartotrimthetip
endsof the spars and leadingandtrailing edges
flush with the outermost R-3 rib.
Ifyou are building the 3-channel wing (without
functioning ailerons), follow the instructions in
theshadedbox. Ifyouarebuildingthe4-channel
wing, skip to step 24.
NOTE:TheLEFTWING PANELplanandits
cross-sectionalviewshowthe"noaileron"
version.

19
21.The 17/32"x 1-1/2"x 30"tapered
balsa aileron stock fitsagainst the trailing
edge stock with its lower surface flat on the
table. Glue the aileron stock to the trailing
edge of the wing. (See the photo onthe
previous page.)
22.Trim the tipend of theaileronstock
flush with the end of the wing.
tothe wing trailing edgeatthe tip asshown onthe
RIGHT WING PANEL drawing. (Thisisdonetothe
rightandleft wing.)
26. Trim and sandtheaileronstockflushwith
thetip of the wing.
itto finalshape. HINT:Putmasking tape over the
surrounding structure when sanding items such as
the wing tips to protect areas you don't want sanded.
REPEAT STEPS 5-29 OVER THE
RIGHT WING PANEL PLANS TO
BUILD THE RIGHT WING.
23.Trimandsandthe rootendofthe
aileronto matchthe4-degree angleoftheTE
andspars.
SKIP TO STEP27
24. Carefullycut a 1-5/8" long piece off the
MAKE THEWING TIPS
27.Lookat the FRONT VIEW of the wing on
the plans to see the proper orientation of the 15/32"
x1-5/8" x 11-1/4" tapered balsawingtips. Thesmall
endof the taper ispositioned atthe bottom edge of
the wing.
28. Hold the wing tip upto the end of the wing.
Trace the top of the airfoil onto the wingtip. Saw or
carve the wing tip to the rough shape of the wing,
leaving itslightly oversized.
JOINTHE WING
braces. Put reference marks at the center of the
braces. NOTICE: The dihedral brace withthe "lock
bumps"forthe aileron servotray ispositioned on the
aft side of the spars (these bumps maybetrimmed
off ifyou are not usingailerons).
17/32"x 1-1/2" x 30" tapered balsaaileron stock .
25. Gluethe 1-5/8" longpiece of aileron stock 29. Glue the wing tip to the wing. Blocksand
31.Test fitthe two wing panels together with the
dihedral braces inplace. Check to see that the
spars, leading edges, and trailingedges match up
well. Make adjustments ifnecessary.
Thedihedral angle(theangleatwhich thewings
are "bent up") isnotconsidered critical. This
angle isestablished byaligning the spars with

20
the dihedral braces. Foryour reference, ifone
wing panel isresting flat on the table, the other
wing tip should beapproximately 4"offthe table.
32. Look ahead to the photos with steps 33 and
34foraviewofthejoinedwing. Spreadalayerof 15-
minute epoxy onto the matching surfaces of the
dihedral braces and the LEFTwing panel spars.
Align the dihedral braces with the top and bottom
edges of the spars. Clamp or tape the braces in
position untilthe glue sets.
NOTE:Ifthere are any small gaps between the
ends of the spars or LE's or TE's, donotbe
overly concerned. They will notsignificantly
weaken the structure. After the wing joining
process iscomplete, fillthem with scrap balsa
and medium CA glue.
33. When the epoxy isset, apply a thin filmof
epoxy to the dihedral brace and the right wing
spars, slide the two wing panels together, and
carefullyalign the spars withthe dihedral braces.
After the epoxy iscured, ifany of the dihedral brace
joints do not appearto be thoroughly glued, apply an
extra fillet of epoxy to them.
34.Thedie-cut1/8"plywoodforwardcenterbrace
(F)isglued innext. Itshould becentered on the
leading edge so the 1/16"balsa top and bottom
centersheeting will laponto it.Align the left and right
leading edges andgluethe brace inplace with CA or
epoxy.
35. Thedie-cut 1/8" plywood aftcenter brace(A)
iscentered on the trailing edges. Align the left and
right trailing edges and glue the brace inwith CA or
epoxy (if you are building the 3-channel version, the
fixedaileron stock should bealignedandglued
together at this time).
NOTE: Ifyou are building the 3-channel version,
do notpunch out the cutout for the aileron servo
inR-1C. Instead, glue itpermanently inplace.
Punch itout as shown inthe photo atthe top of
the next column for the 4-channel version.
together to form a 1/4"thick part. Glue the two die-
cut 1/8"R-1C's (1C)together to form a 1/4"thick
part.
two lines forward from the slot inR-1A as shown in
thephoto, for later reference.
centered to allow forthe top and bottom center
section sheeting as shown inthe cross-section
drawing beside the right wing panel.
36.Glue the two die-cut 1/8"balsa R-1A's (1A)
37.Ifyou are using the bolt-on wing option, draw
38.Use medium CA to glue R-1C inplace. Itis
39.PutR-1A inplaceasshown inthe cross