Carl Goldberg Products Sophisticated Lady User manual

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The SOPHISTICATED LADY is a sailplane design that blends simple straight-forward construction with
the elegant styling of a sleek, full-scale soaring machine. The clean lines have not compromised the
functionality of this model aircraft, which you will find a delight to fly both in thermals and on the slope
And if it's competition you desire, this "Lady" can compete with the best and look great in the winners'
circle!
Although a simple two-channel radio meets the minimum requirements for piloting this model, a third
channel is more desirable, enabling you to control airborne "power-on/power-off" commands when the
electric power pod is installed. The Carl Goldberg Products Electric Power Pod (Item #678) is an option-
al accessory which provides power assistance for small-field launching, or when the towline is just too
much trouble. A small gas engine is also a power option. In addition, your sailplane so may be
launched via high start, hand tow, or winch, and, if you live in a hilly or mountainous area, you may wish
to simply pitch your glider off the slope. Whichever method you choose, the SOPHISTICATED LADY
will provide many hours of enjoyment.
WARNING!
THIS IS NOT A TOY! A radio-controlled model is not a toy and is not intended for persons under 16 years old. Keep this
kit out of the reach of younger children, as it contains parts that could be dangerous. A radio-controlled model is capable
of causing serious bodily injury and property damage. It is the buyer’s responsibility to build this kit correctly and to prop-
erly install the motor, radio, and all other equipment. Test and fly the finished model only in the presence and with the assis-
tance of another experienced R/C flyer. The model must always be operated and flown using great care and common
sense, as well as in accordance with the safety standards of the Academy of Model Aeronautics (5151 Memorial Drive,
Muncie, IN 47302, 1-800-435-9262). We suggest you join the AMA and become properly insured prior to flying this model.
Also, consult with the AMA or your local hobby dealer to find an experienced instructor in your area. Per the Federal
Communications Commission, you are required to use only those radio frequencies specified “for Model Aircraft.”
INSTRUCTIONS
Carl Goldberg Products, Ltd.
P.O. Box 818 4462 Oakwood Road Oakwood, GA 30566 Phone # [phone]
Fax # [phone] E-mail: [email protected]
©Copyright 1986
SOPHISTICATED LADY ARFTM

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Congratulations on your purchase of the
SOPHISTICA
SOPHISTICATED LADY TED LADY ARF ARF. Every effort
has been made to produce a lightweight,
straight, easy to assemble aircraft. Quality hard-
ware components have been provided, It is your
responsibility as an pilot to fly the aircraft in an
intelligent manner. Carl Goldberg Products has
flown the SOPHISTICATED LADY ARF through
a very rigorous flight-testing schedule and have
stressed the airframe beyond all practical
parameters without a single failure. Carl
Goldberg Products will NOT warrant the
SOPHISTICATED LADY ARF against flutter
due to improper set-up or excessive speed
maneuvers. having said that, we believe you
will find the SOPHISTICATED LADY ARF to be
one of the best gliders on the market .
We are very proud of the construction of the
SOPHISTICATED LADY ARF and all of our
other ARF aircraft. Each aircraft is jig built to
insure a straight true airframe. Every effort is
made to build as light an aircraft as possible.
During the course of shipping from the manu-
facturer to our facility in the United States, it is
not uncommon for the aircraft to experience
several changes in climate. This may cause the
iron-on covering to develop wrinkles. This is not
a fault of the manufacturer. Please take a few
minutes with your heating iron and heat gun to
iron down the seams and re-shrink the covering
where needed. The results will be a beautiful
aircraft with a breathtaking finish that you will
be proud to display at your flying club.
Before beginning assembly of your SOPHISTI SOPHISTI- -
CA
CATED LADY TED LADY ARF ARF, we highly recommend
that you study this manual in its entirety. You
should begin planning your radio installation
based on your choice of equipment from the
beginning.
Because the SOPHISTICA SOPHISTICATED LADY TED LADY ARF ARF
is intended for those with some degree of mod-
eling experience, every minute detail will not be
covered. Assembly of this aircraft will be easy
for the experienced modeler, and by following
the instructions within this manual and using the
skills you’ve gained during your modeling career
you will be able to produce a first class aircraft.
Building supplies needed
Hobby knife w/#11 blades
Thin Ultra Set™ CA
Medium Ultra Set™ CA
Canopy glue
30 minute Ultra Set™ epoxy
Diagonal wire cutters
Pliers
Assorted drill bits
Various sized screwdrivers( both Phillips and
standard head)
Tape measure
Dry-erase marker
Paper towels
Rubbing alcohol
Clear Vinyl tape
3/32, 7/64, 9/64 & 3mm Allen wrench
Wax Paper
LIMITED WARRANTY
Carl Goldberg Products, Ltd. has inspected and certified the components of this aircraft. The company urges the buyer to perform
his own inspection, prior to assembly, and to immediately request a replacement of any parts he believes to be defective for their
intended use. The company warrants replacement of any such components, provided the buyer requests such replacement with-
in a period of 30 days from the date of purchase and provided the defective part is returned, if so requested by the company.
No other warranty, expressed or implied, is made by the company with respect to this kit. The buyer acknowledges and under-
stands that it is his responsibility to carefully assemble the finished flying model airplane and to fly it safely. The buyer hereby
assumes full responsibility for the risk and all liability for personal or property damage or injury arising out of the buyer's use of the
components of this kit.

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ADHESIVES & GLUING TECHNIQUES
Ultra Set™ CA adhesives are specially formulated to firm-
ly glue the plywood, hardwood, and balsa used in your
model and to withstand the vibration and stresses of high
performance flight. However, there are times, such as
when you are installing the stabilizer and fin on the fuse-
lage and want more set-up time for careful alignment and
positioning, then you should use Ultra Set™ epoxy .
Occasionally, you also will want to use thin CA, which
"wicks" into the surrounding areas. Aliphatic resin glue or
similar water-based glues can also be used, but they will
add to the assembly time because they dry so much more
slowly than Ultra Set™ CA glue. Remember, when ever
using any CA, you must be careful to read instructions thor-
oughly, as you will have only seconds for positioning of
parts. Be sure to trial fit parts together before gluing. Also,
never use watery THIN type CA glue for gluing plywood
and hardwood parts. Thin CA's do not adequately bond
these areas.
CAUTION
Some people may experience an allergic reaction when
exposed to fumes from CA glue or epoxy . As with paints,
thinners, and solvents, it is always important to use glues
only where there is adequate ventilation to carry fumes
away. A fan is recommended. Also, special care must be
taken when using CA, as it will bond skin as well as other
surfaces. Before using any CA, carefully read all label pre-
cautions. When using CA, protective eye-wear and care in
keeping the glue away from the face is highly recommend-
ed. If CA does happen to get into the eye, hold lid open
and flush with water only. Seek immediate medical atten-
tion.
PREPARING FOR ASSEMBLY
You will need a work area of approximately 24 x 48" which has
been covered to protect it from adhesive, as well as cuts and
other damage. Many people cover their work area with a
sheet of dry wall (sheet rock) and/or waxed paper t o pre-
vent Ultra Set™ CA Glue and Ultra Set™ epoxy from ruining
the work surface.
CONSTRUCTION TIPS
IMPORTANT: ALWAYS READ A FEW STEPS AHEAD.
This will alert you to coming instructions and will help you
plan accordingly.
Using the Parts Identification section, familiarize yourself
with the various items included in your kit box.
ITEMS NEEDED TO COMPLETE THIS AIRCRAFT
1 RADIO GUIDANCE SYSTEM (3 CHANNEL
MINIMUM REQUIRED WITH 2 SERVOS)
2 FUTABA 3303 SERVO (ELEVATOR)
1 CA ACCELERATOR
1 1 OZ. MEDIUM ULTRA SET™ CA GLUE
1 1/2 OZ. THIN ULTRA SET™ CA GLUE
1ULTRA SET™ 5 MINUTE EPOXY
1 1/4” FOAM RUBBER
NOTE:
THE SOPHISTICATED LADY ARF COVERING
CLOSELY MATCHES ORACOVER:
(#870) WHITE
(#872) BRIGHT YELLOW
(#866) TRUE RED
(#877) ORANGE

1. COLLECT THE FOLLOWING ITEMS:
(1) 1/4” PLY WING JOINER
(1) 1/8” PLY WING JOINER
WING
2. Insert the 1/4” joiner into the front section of
the wing.
Insert the 1/8” joiner into the rear section of the
wing.
Fit the two wing panels together.
When satisfied with the fit take the wing back
apart and using Ultra Set™ 30 minute Epoxy,
work glue into all four slots for the dihedral
braces. Coat all sides of the dihedral braces
and both wing roots.
Re assemble the wing making sure the lead-
ing and trailing edges are perfectly aligned.
Note: Tape the wings together till the epoxy cures.
Repeat for the other wing.
TAIL INSTALLATION
1. COLLECT THE FOLLOWING ITEMS:
(1) FUSELAGE
(1) FIN WITH RUDDER
(2) STABILIZER AND ELEVATOR
2. Insert the fin into the notches in the top of the
fuselage.
Use a pencil and mark the outline of the fin on
the top of the fuselage.
4

5
3. Using a sharp knife or razor blade, carefully
cut 1/16” in side the line and remove the cov-
ering. Do not cut into the wood.
5. Using ULTRA SET™ 5 MINUTE EPOXY ,
glue the fin to fuselage. Use masking tape to
hold in place.Make sure it is square to the
fuselage.
4. Locate the elevator control cable with its nylon
sleeve. Insert the cable in the hole in the bot-
tom of the fin and push it till it exits the top of
the fin at the rear.
6. Remove the covering from the top of the fin
and sides of tab. Do not remove covering from
top of tab.
remove do not remove
7. Use a straight pin in the center of the CA
hinges to make sure they go half into the fin
and half into the rudder.

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8. Fit the rudder in place and remove the pins.
Push the rudder tight against the fin.
Deflect the rudder 1-1/2” in one direction and
apply ULTRA SET™ thin CA to each hinge.
Deflect the rudder in the opposite direction
and apply glue to the hinges from the other
side.
9. Fit the elevator hinges in the stab the same as
we did with the rudder.
Deflect the elevator 1/2” in one direction and
apply ULTRA SET™ thin CA to each hinge.
Deflect the elevator 1/2” in the other direction
and apply ULTRA SET™ thin CA to each
hinge.
10. Set the stab in place on the top of the fin and
mark the outline of the fin on the bottom of the
stab.
Cut 1/16” inside the lines and remove the cov-
ering.
11. Mix more ULTRA SET™ 5 MINUTE EPOXY ,
and glue the stab in place on top of the fin.
Use a square and check to make sure it is
square to the fin.
12. After the epoxy has fully cured, turn the plane
over and fit the triangle stock braces between
the fin and stab. Remove the covering under-
neath and epoxy in place.
RADIO INSTALLATION
MOVING STICK RIGHT MOVES THE RUDDER RIGHT 1-1/2"
MOVING STICK LEFT MOVES THE RUDDER LEFT 1-1/2"
MOVING STICK FORWARD (AWAY FROM YOU) MOVES ELEVATOR
DOWN 3/8"
MOVING STICK BACK (TOWARD YOU)
MOVES ELEVATOR UP 3/8"
NOTE: Before installing the radio, read and follow the
instructions included with your radio. Also make sure
the batteries are fully charged
ASSEMBLE & TEST THE RADIO
BEFORE INSTALLATION

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RUDDER PUSHROD
SERVO
RUBBER GROMMET
ELEVATOR PUSHROD
ON/OFF SWITCH
RECEIVER
FOAM
BATTERY
CHARGING JACK
FOAM TAPE
1. COLLECT THE FOLLOWING ITEMS:
(1) FUSELAGE
(2) SERVOS
(1) THREADED PUSHROD WIRE
(1) UNTHREADED WIRE
(1) NYLON CLEVISES
(1) SILICONE KEEPERS
(3) PUSHROD CONNECTORS
(2) CONTROL HORNS AND BACK PLATES
(4) 2MM X 15MM BOLTS
2. Insert the soft rubber grommets supplied with the
radio into the mounting holes of the servos.
3. Using a 1/16" drill bit, drill holes though the rails
for the servo screws.
4. Determine which is the elevator servo and which
is the rudder servo. Locate the rudder servo on
the left and the elevator servo on the right, as
shown. Push the two servos as close together
and you can and mount in the center of the fuse-
lage leaving a gap on both sides.
Gently fasten the servos to the servo rails with
#2x3/8" sheet metal screws.
5. Locate one of the pushrod connectors and fit it
into the bottom hole in one of the control horns.
6. Fit the control horn on the elevator so the eleva-
tor cable aligns with the hole in the pushrod con-
nector.
Mark the location of the two mounting holes and
drill a 5/64” hole at each spot.
Mount the control horn using the two 2mm
screws and the nylon plate on top.
.Tighten the set screw on the pushrod connector
against the elevator control cable.
7. Pull the outer nylon housing around the elevator
control cable back into the fin until about 1/8” is
exposed.
Glue the nylon housing in place being careful
not to get any glue on the elevator cable.

8
15. Mount the battery pack (which is the heaviest
piece of equipment) as far forward as possible.
Secure it to the floor of the fuse with foam-
backed servo mounting tape, making sure the
final battery position does not interfere with the
canopy fit.
NOTE:YOU MUST ALWAYS USE FRESH DRY CELLS
OR FULLY CHARGED NICADS FOR FLYING.
8. Locate the rudder pushrod parts, 10” wire thread-
ed on one end, 4” piece of unthreaded wire,
wooden dowel, two pieces of shrink tubing.
Cut the threaded wire to a length of 7-1/4” leav-
ing the threads. Make a 90 degree bend in the
unthreaded end 1/4” long. Make a 90 degree
bend in the short wire 1/4” long.
Fit the wires into the holes and grooves in the
end of the dowel, apply some glue, and then
cover with the shrink tubing. Use a heat gun to
shrink the tubing in place.
9. Locate the rudder pushrod exit hole under the
covering on the left side of the plane and remove
the covering.
10. Set the control horn in place in line with the
pushrod and drill two 5/64” holes. Mount the horn
using the 2mm screws and nylon plate on top.
Install the rudder pushrod in the fuselage and
exit the hole. Attach a 4-40 jam nut and clevis
with silicone keeper to the end.
11. Hook the clevis to the outer most hole in the con-
trol horn.
12. Take two short control arm and attach the
adjustable servo connectors to them.
13. Fit the servo arm in place, turn on the radio and
make sure the servo is centered. Make sure the
rudder is centered and tighten the set screw.
14. Fit the elevator control cable into the servo arm
and make sure elevator and servo are centered.
Tighten the set screw.
Important: For the elevator control
cable to work properly, both ends
of the yellow outer nylon cable
must be glued in place so they
cannot move forward and back
The white outer tube is a guide from the rear of
the fuselage and should be glued in place at the
front end. The yellow nylon tube can then be
glued to it.

9
16. Wrap the radio receiver carefully in foam rubber,
making sure the antenna wires extend outside
the foam. Do not cut the antenna wires.
Place the receiver just to the rear of the battery
pack.
Drill a small hole in the bulkhead and thread the
antenna further back, under the wing rest rails
and through the fuse.
Drill a small exit hole in either side of the of the
fuse, just before the rear former, and thread the
antenna out through it.
Lead the antenna to the top of the fin and scotch
tape in place.
17. Referring to the radio installation diagram at the
beginning of this section, mark the side of the
fuse for the switch location.
Cut a hole in the fuse side, making sure it is long
enough to permit the switch button to move freely
to both the “On” and “Off” positions.
After determining which is the “On” position,
mount the switch with the “On” setting forward.
Install with the switch screws.
On the outside of the fuselage, clearly mark
which is the “On” and the “Off” setting with the
decal's provided in this kit.
18. Mount the charging jack in the fuse side, using
the same method as was used with the switch.
19. Gather all excess wires and cables together
behind the receiver and store by holding down
with foam.
20. Switch on the radio system and set the control
surfaces as follows.
With the elevator trim tab on the transmitter set in
the center position, adjust the elevator mini-snap
until the top of the elevator is flat with the top of
the stab.
With the rudder trim tab set in the center position,
adjust the rudder mini-snap until the rudder
points dead straight ahead.
CANOPY INSTALLATION
1. Mount the cockpit insert to the cockpit floor using
canopy glue and masking tap to hold in place. It
is best to do this with the cockpit mounted on the
place to make sure you do not warp it.
2. After the glue dries on the insert, remove the
tape and glue the clear canopy in place. Use
canopy glue and masking tape.
3. Glue the two wing mount dowels in place in the
fuselage.

10
4. Mount the cockpit to the plane using the small
rubber band.
TOW HOOK
1. COLLECT THE FOLLOWING ITEMS:
(1) TOW HOOK
(2) 4-40 NUTS
(2) #4 WASHERS
2. Locate the ply plate on the inside of the fuselage
behind the servos. Open the hole in the middle
of the plate through to the bottom of the fuse.
Put a nut and washer on the tow hook and insert
into the hole. Put the other washer and nut on
top and tighten.
APPLYING DECAL'S
1. Using glass cleaner and a soft cloth, clean
model surface thoroughly before applying the
decal.
Cut the decal sheets apart in sections, as need-
ed. Fold the decal in half, front to rear. Open at
the fold and lay the decal out straight. The pro-
tective backing will bubble away from the decal
at the fold.
Using a scissors, cut the backing along the bub-
ble, removing a strip of backing about 1" wide.
Carefully position the decal on the model and
stick it in place. Then, working from the center,
rub the decal down while peeling off the remain-
der of the backing.

11
BALANCING THE AIRCRAFT
IMPORTANT: NEVER NEGLECT THIS STEP WITH
ANY AIRPLANE. If you try to fly a plane with the bal-
ance point behind the recommended range, you run
the risk of having an unstable aircraft and the strong
likelihood of a crash. TAKE THE TIME TO PROPER-
LY BALANCE YOUR MODEL!
10-1/2”
6” 3”
3”
1. Locate a point between 3-1/2” and 3-
3/4”back from the leading edge of the wing.
This is the center of gravity (C.G.). When all
equipment is installed, your model must bal-
ance at this point.
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO FLY YOUR AIRCRAFT
UNTIL YOU HAVE BALANCED IT CORRECTLY.
Although it is possible to balance a model by
perching it on the thumb and forefinger of
your left hand while steadying it with your
right hand, a much better way to to set us a
balancing stand as shown above.
2. Use two 1/4” dowels with rounded tops,
spaced far enough apart to clear the fuse-
lage. Mark the C.G. on the underside of the
wing and set the model on the dowels at that
location.
3. Add lead weight in the nose area shown until
the fuselage is parallel to the base of the bal-
ancing fixture.
Mix some epoxy and pour it over the lead.
When hardened, it will secure the ballast
permanently.

12
FLYING YOUR SOPHISTICATED LADY
LEARNING TO FLY
Flying R/C is both fun and challenging. As with other
portions of this book, the following section is meant to
introduce you to the basics. Read carefully before tak-
ing your model out to the field and attempting first
flights. And remember, becoming an R/C pilot takes
time and patience, but the rewards are well worth the
effort.
Equipment Checklist
Flight batteries, fully charged
Extra battery packs
Radio transmitter
Battery charger
Tools for tightening any parts that can vibrate and
loosen
Extra #64 rubber bands
Bottle of Super Jet™
CHECK YOUR EQUIPMENT
Prior to going to the flying field, with radio batteries fully
charged, turn on both receiver (Rx) and transmitter (Tx)
and actuate all controls many times until you are satis-
fied with all functions.
Before beginning each day's flying, make a range
check of your equipment in accordance with the manu-
facturer's instructions. In general, with transmitter
antenna collapsed to 6"-8", you should have an at least
100 foot range on the ground. To check this, turn on
both the transmitter and the receiver switches, set the
model heading away from you, and walk away while
transmitting signals to move the control surfaces.
Watch to see that no signals are missed until you are
at least 100 feet away. Only if the equipment works
perfectly should any flights be attempted. Again, be
careful to not use your transmitter when anyone
else at the field is flying or testing on the same fre-
quency!
After the range check, stand behind the model and
make sure the control responses are correct. Moving
the control stick to the right should give right rudder (on
a 3-channel set-up) . Moving the stick back or down on
the Tx should move the elevator up, and vice versa.
Finally, make sure that everything on your aircraft is
neatly and firmly in place-motor fastened down, servos
snugged down, receiver and battery wrapped in foam
rubber, etc. The receiver antenna must be extended,
not coiled up inside the model. Nothing should be
loose, or unfinished, or unchecked.
With transmitter and receiver switched on, hand launch
the model directly into the wind. Gently correct the
flight path as necessary. If any adjustments are need-
ed to maintain straight and level flight, get experienced
help to move the clevises.
In flight control. most of the beginner's trouble comes
from over-controlling or holding a signal too long. It is
better to operate your transmitter slowly and smoothly.
A troublesome tendency is letting the model get down-
wind. New flyers should try to keep the model upwind
at all times prior to the landing approach.
If you are a novice, seek the help of an experienced
flyer. Do not hesitate to ask one of the better flyers at
the field for help. Usually, they are glad to spend a lit-
tle time to get somebody started right, and they very
likely were helped in the same manner themselves.
An experienced R/C flight instructor is strongly recommended for learning how to fly.

13
WHERE TO FLY
Fly only in areas sanctioned for R/C and known to be
free of radio interference. Ask your hobby dealer or
other modelers if there is an R/C flying field that is used
by a local R/C club. This is the ideal place to fly. If you
don't know of an R/C club nearby, contact the Academy
of Model Aeronautics (AMA), at the address on the front
of this booklet, for information on a club in your area.
Remember: R/C flying fields need to have rules to help
prevent accidents, so ask about them before you turn
on any of your equipment! DO NOT TEST your trans-
mitter in the parking lot or anywhere nearby until
you are sure no one else is using your radio fre-
quency. This could cause another flyer to crash
and make you very unpopular!
If there is no club or other R/C flying site available,
locate a square area (preferably a grassy field), at least
four or five football fields long, which is free of power
lines, trees, poles, houses, busy streets and other
obstructions. It must be at least three miles away from
any areas where other R/C models, such as boats or
cars, are operated. It should also have a relatively
smooth surface, as it will take practice to learn preci-
sion landings. If you find a suitable location, turn your
receiver on for 2 or 3 minutes to check that no one in
the vicinity is operating an R/C device which could
affect your receiver and cause your plane to crash.
a diameter of as much as 1000 feet. Thermals tend to
originate at fixed locations, such as plowed fields, park-
ing lots, or paved road - anywhere that the temperature
of the surface is likely to vary from the temperature of
surrounding areas. Thermals are also known to be
cyclic and, depending on the conditions, can be gener-
ated fairly regularly. It is appears that the time between
the hours of 10:00 a.m. and 2:00 p.m., when the sun is
at its highest angle, are the most productive. Keep all
of this in mind while flying at your particular flying site.
Thermals can achieve very fast rates of climb.
Coupling this fact with the potentially large diameter, it
is easy to see how one might find it difficult to escape
the clutches of a real "boomer."
The strategy for thermal flying is basic. Launch your
Sophisticated Lady via a high-start, winch, or hand-
tow and start searching for a thermal in areas likely to
be a good thermal generator. Watch your model for
signs of vertical movement or buoyancy. Keep flying in
this area, using a series of large flat turns to find where
the thermal is the strongest. Once you've located the
center, circle tighter to keep your model in the fastest
rate of climb. If there is any wind, drift downwind with
the thermal, but since you will be climbing and going
downwind simultaneously, don't get carried away! With
luck and a good battery pack, you can stay up for
hours, using new thermals to extend your flight time.
When you've had enough, simply point the nose
upwind and slightly down and fly out of the thermal.
THERMAL FLYING
Thermal soaring is a very popular activity which you
can enjoy with your Sophisticated Lady. But before
you start launching, let's take a few moments to discuss
what a thermal is and how to use it.
A column of warm air rising from the earth's surface is
known as a thermal. Such columns are generated by
the sun's uneven heating of the earth and they can
reach altitudes in excess of 4000 feet. They can have
RISING AIR
TYPICAL THERMAL
TOW RELEASE
800'-1000'
WHILE LEARNING TO FLY, YOU
MAY FEEL BETTER ABLE TO
CONTROL THE MODEL, AS IT
COMES TOWARD YOU, BY
FACING YOUR BODY IN THE
SAME DIRECTION AS THE
MODEL IS FLYING AND LOOK-
ING OVER YOUR SHOULDER.

14
SLOPE FLYING
Slope soaring is a nice divergence from thermal flying. For a slope to be effective, the wind should, for the most part,
blow directly into the face of the slope. Wind velocity is not as critical, but there should be some wind. Also, it is not
necessary to be atop Mt. Everest to have slope effect. You can get some pretty good effects from areas that may
surprise you, so it pays to try out even a small elevation in your area.
With the wind in your face, throw your model down the slope into the wind. Once it is out into the slope lift, the model
will rise and seem to maintain a consistent altitude. Fly back and forth parallel to the face of the slope, always mak-
ing turns away from the slope face. This will ensure that your model will not be blown behind the slope, where the
air is very turbulent and may cause the plane to crash.
SEVERE TURBULENCE AND
DOWNDRAFT
AREA OF INTENSE LIFT
WIND

15
GENERAL FLYING TIPS & LANDINGS
While flying your pattern, try to maintain shall turns. Remember that the wind will tend to blow your plane further
downwind. To compensate for the the wind, make upwind (flying into the wind) turns shallow and downwind turns a
little steeper. It is more difficult to fly a model when it is downwind and if a mistake is made, it will be more difficult
to fly back to the field.
You may wish to add ballast to your model for better wind penetration. If so, add the weight (perhaps starting with
6-8 ounces) at the center of gravity, making sure the weight is securely attached inside the model. Loose ballast can
destroy a model in rough conditions.
Landings can be a little tricky at first, but with experience can be mastered. Make your approach from either side,
keeping the nose of the model parallel to the wind. Bring the model gently up to the slope. When it is hovering 1 to
2 feet from the ground, apply down elevator to slow the model down and land. This is a little different than a normal
type of landing, where you let the model float onto the ground.