Cascadia Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 410 2021 User manual

Welcome aboard Cascadia.
2021 Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 410
• Maintenance Pro – Maz Ocean – 360-
726-2899 (office). 954-253-4004 (cell)
• Cascadia’s Specs:
• LOA: 42’5” (with bowsprit) LWL:
38’4"
• Beam: 13' 1" Draft: 7”1"
• Displacement: 17,417 lbs (dry)
• Mast height above WL: 63’ (with
antenna)
• Fuel: 52.8 gal
• Water: 140 gal. (2 tanks) Hot
water: 10.6 gal.
• Holding: 13 gal. Fwd, 21 gal. Aft
• Engine: 45 hp. Yanmar
• We do have some basic rules we would
appreciate you following, mainly no pets
and no smoking.
• Listed below are some tips on how to get
the most out of Cascadia and her
equipment. We sincerely hope you
• Have a great time. If you have questions,
or feedback, we would love to talk to you.
You can reach us at 360-383-6650 (Bill’s
cell).
• Happy Sailing, Bill Hall and Erin Griffith

2
Index
• Emergencies pgs. 3-4
• Anchoring pgs. 5-8
• BBQ pg. 9
• Batteries/Inverter pgs. 10-11
• Cabinetry pg. 12
• Deck Fills/Pumpouts pg. 13
• Dinghy pgs. 14-16
• Dodger pg. 17
• Docking pgs. 18-19
• Electronics pgs. 22-30
• Engine pgs. 31-36
• Galley pgs. 37-39
• Instruments pgs. 40-45
• Sail Systems pgs. 46-49

3
Emergencies
• Fire – There are three ABC rated fire extinguishers onboard. They are located (a) forward cabin
port side on the aft bulkhead behind the door (b) by your feet if you are standing at companion
way just under the stairs (c) aft port cabin port side, above hanging locker. All are ABC fire
extinguishers. If you have a fire at the stove turn off the gas solenoid switch at the electrical
panel. If there is an engine fire use the extinguisher port in the port aft cabin engine
compartment.
• Hitting a Log or Running Aground – In case of a log hit or running aground, immediately check
for leaks in the bilge and then check for cracks in the fore and aft sections of the bilge where
the keel attaches to the hull. Also check all keel bolts. Once you are sure no water is entering
the hull contact San Juan Sailing at 800-677-7245 and proceed to the nearest harbor and have
a professional diver check the hull, keel, prop, and rudder before proceeding.
• Leaks – Make sure the bilge pumps are running. Then determine the source of the water,
check the prop shaft first and then the through-hulls. You cannot get to the shaft seal easily
since the wall between the aft cabins needs to be removed first, but you should be able see
water flowing at the back of the engine if the seal is broken. There is a diagram showing the
location of the through hulls in the notebook. Get the crew on deck and into life jackets.

4
Emergencies
• There are two bilge pumps. The manual bilge pump is located on the port side of the
cockpit, behind the steering wheel on the outside of the combing next to the white
speaker. The handle is in the port cockpit locker lid. The electric bilge pumps have
automatic float switches but the switch on the electrical panel can be used to power the
main pump manually. The float switches and pump intakes are located under the salon
sole about 2 feet aft of the mast compression post.
• Steering Failure – If the steering system fails there is an emergency tiller in the port aft
floor cockpit locker. It fits on rudder post which is accessed through the cap (remove using
winch handle) on the floor just behind and each helm station. You will want to reduce sail
or power when using this tiller since the rudder is large and the tiller is small.
• Emergency Equipment – Flares, air and manual horns, etc. are in a white mesh bag the aft
portside cockpit locker.
• Crew Overboard – Throw a Type IV PFD or cockpit cushion to the person in the water first.
Second, hit the mob button on the chart plotter so you will know where they are. Then
use one of the procedures discussed in the skipper’s meeting to get back to the person.
We keep the LifeSling mounted on the stern rail, starboard side, at all times.

5
Anchoring
- Anchors and Windlass
• Cascadia is equipped with two anchors, one forward (44# Delta with 300 feet of chain) and a
Fortress in the starboard cockpit locker along with 70’ of chain and 200’ of rode. The
primary chain is marked with poly line threaded into the links every 25 feet and there are
two lines in a row at 100, 200 and 300 ft. Additionally, there is a chain counter at the helm.
• The scope normally used in the islands is 4 to 1, definitely not 7 to 1 (unless conditions call
for it, i.e. sustained winds over 25 knots). Most of the anchorages are well protected and
popular, so you will likely have someone anchored nearby. After you have paid out the
suitable amount of chain, 1-2 minutes of IDLE reverse sets the anchor. Here is an easy
formula for how much chain you need out; add the water depth on sounder, plus any tide
increase expected during the night, plus 5’ (to account for the distance from sounder to
roller on bow) and take that total and multiply by 4 (typical example would be 25’ of water +
6’ of tide increase + 5’ = 36’ x 4 = 144’).
• The electric anchor windlass receives power from the start battery. The circuit breaker for
the windlass is located behind the companionway steps in the port quarter berth. Please
note the windlass will not run without the engine is running.
• The up-down controller for the windlass is secured inside the forward locker. Please do not
use the windlass controls at the helm as it is very easy to ding the bow with the anchor;
anchoring should be a two-person job! Also, be sure to take the tension off of the windlass
by attaching the snubber (located in chain locker) to the chain and a cleat (not the windlass),
and then running out more chain until the chain on the drum is slack.

6
Anchoring
- Helm Windlass/Chain Counter and Windlass Remote
• There is a windlass controller at the
anchor locker.
• There is a second windlass controller with
chain counter at the starboard helm
station. It is not practical to bring the
anchor in from this position since the
chain will pile up and the windlass will
jam. However, it is possible, although not
recommended, to let the anchor out using
this controller. Obviously, the anchor
would need to be untied and lowered into
the water by hand first. Note the power
to this controller comes from the windlass
breaker, not the instrument breakers.

7
Anchoring -
Lowering the Anchor
1. Turn on the circuit breaker for the windlass (port aft berth).
2. Reset chain counter at helm (if desired).
3. Untie the line holding the anchor in place
4. Slowly lower the anchor off the bow roller down to the water to minimize the
anchor swinging back into the bow.
5. Lower the anchor until the needed chain is paid out.
6. Attach the snubber (blue line in anchor locker) to the chain
7. Wrap the black end of the snubber around the anchor chain to make a loop just
fore of the windlass
8. Pull the two blue permanent loops in the snubber through the single loop you
made around the chain. (additional wraps are not needed)
9. Attach a black dock line (also in the anchor locker) through the two blue loops
on the snubber with a bowline.
10. Cleat the dock line to either of the fore cleats.
11. Lower the snubber through the bow roller until there is slack between the
anchor chain and the windlass.
12. Set the anchor by reversing at 800 RPM for 1-2 minutes, DO NOT go above
1000 RMP.
13. Turn off the circuit breaker and, if appropriate, turn on the anchor light.

8
Anchoring
- Raising the Anchor
1. Start the engine.
2. Turn on the circuit breaker for the windlass and, if needed, turn off the anchor light.
3. Turn on the wash down pump, Aux button located on the main panel.
4. Take in enough chain to retrieve the snubber.
5. When retrieving the anchor, never use the windlass to pull the boat; instead, slowly power toward the anchor
while using the windlass (up button on the remote control) to take up the slack. Also, if the anchor is really stuck
in the mud you will hear the windlass slow under the load. Immediately stop the windlass and drive the boat
forward to free the anchor.
6. Please use the wash down hose to ‘wash’ the anchor and chain as it is retrieved. This will keep the boat and
anchor locker much cleaner.
7. The incoming chain will pile up against the aft end of the chain locker, so the operator needs to reach in and push
the pile of chain forward every 20-30 feet of chain using the boat hook. Also be aware the lines used to mark the
chain length can catch in the outlet of the windlass and may cause a jam. Just run the windlass back out for a
second to clear.
8. Once the anchor is out of the water please bring onto the boat by hand. Please do not pull the anchor up onto
the rollers using the power of the windlass, doing so will likely chip the fiberglass as the anchor swings into the
bow.
9. Secure the anchor by hooking the snubber onto the chain and tying it to the windlass drum (the chain over the
drum should not be the only thing keeping the anchor onboard).
10. Switch the windlass breaker “off” to prevent draining the start battery, then turn off the seawater pump and
anchor light on the main panel.

9
Barbecue
• The stainless-steel propane barbecue is mounted on the port stern pulpit.
There is a line plumbed from the main propane tanks inside the propane
locker to the BBQ.
• There is a T-valve allowing both the galley stove and the BBQ to use the
same propane tank. You will need to turn the valve to be inline with the
BBQ line to use the BBQ. Be sure the BBQ controller is off when opening
this valve or the tank valve; having it on will cause the safety system in the
main tank to engage and severely limit the flow to the BBQ.
• The solenoid in the galley needs to be on for the BBQ to work.
• To light the BBQ push the temp control dial in and push the ignite button
on the BBQ. Keep the dial pushed in until the BBQ is full lit. Then set
desired temperature.
• When done with the BBQ turn off this valve; DO NOT RELY ON THE
CONTROLLER AT THE BBQ AS THE ONLY SHUTOFF FOR THE PROPANE. Be
sure to switch the T-valve back to the off position.
• There is a second propane tank in the starboard after floor locker.
Propane Locker in Starboard
Stern Locker
BBQ Valve – shown here in off position.
Turn in line to run BBQ

10
Batteries/Inverter
• Cascadia has 6 batteries onboard, one for starting the engine, four to power the
cabin accessories, and one to power the bow thruster. These three battery
systems are separated from each other by a combiner so it should be impossible to
drain the start battery. The house batteries are located under the first salon sole
panel in the main walkway. The starter battery is under the port aft mattress. The
bow thruster battery is in under the front part of the fore cabin mattress.
• Battery Monitor – Cascadia has a Scheiber Navicolor touchscreen (located next to
the main DC panel) which can be used to monitor the batteries. The voltage
normally starts at 13.5 when fully charged. It will then drop to 12.45 and levels off
for quite a while, then starts dropping again. When it starts dropping this second
time, you have very little reserve left and it is time to recharge when the voltage
gets to 12.2 volts – PLEASE DO NOT RUN THE VOLTAGE BELOW 12.0 – DOING SO
DAMAGES THE BATTERIES.
• The house battery banks tend to recharge well with a few hours of motoring each
day.
• The fridge, freezer, and webasto heating system (as well as anything using the
inverter – TV, toaster, coffee maker) all have significant effect on the battery life.
We generally get the fridge (and freezer) down to temp on shore power or while
motoring and turn them off while sailing or at anchor. We typically turn the
heating system off a night.

11
Batteries/Inverter
• Cascadia has a 2000 watt Xantrex inverter so 110V power can be used
at any time. Be careful as it is easy to draw the batteries down. We
suggest leaving the inverter turned off unless you need 110V power;
the main risk is running the house batteries low without realizing it.
The inverter control is just below the Navicolor monitor system on
the electrical panel. The button on the lower left corner is the
inverter on/off switch and is the only button needed on the control
panel. The additional controls and buttons on the inverter control
panel are not active as we use the Navicolor system for monitoring
instead of the inverter system.
• You only need to push the on/off button once to turn the inverter on.
(Pushing the same button once when the inverter is on will turn it
off)
• The breaker for the inverter is located next to the main breaker panel
in the aft port cabin. We generally leave this on.

12
Cabinetry on Cascadia
Latch
Latch Marker Dot
• Cabinet storage on Cascadia is often
hidden but is plentiful.
• Almost all cabinets have a small plastic
latch to keep them closed.
• The latches are relatively fragile and can
be easily broken if a door or drawer is
opened without releasing the latch.
• We have placed a small brown dot
indicating the position of each latch so
that it is easily found. (This should also
help in finding some of the “hidden
storage” areas)

13
Deck Fills/Pumpouts
• Deck Fills on Cascadia are color coded with a
color ring between the deck cap and the deck
and accessed with the winch handle.
• Red – Diesel Fuel (Port Side Aft Seat)
• Blue –Fresh Water x 2 (Starboard Side Aft
Seat below pulpit and Starboard side forward
of mast.)
• Black – Black Water Waste (sewage) x 2
(Starboard side amidship behind mast and
port side amidship.)

14
Dinghy
- Dinghy and Outboard Motor
• Cascadia is equipped with a 10’ Ketchimack aluminum bottom dinghy and a 2.3 hp Honda. The
dinghy is roomy (easily holds 4 adults) and the outboard is easy to operate. The dinghy tows with
the least drag if brought close to the boat – a couple feet off the stern. This guarantees that you
won't accidentally wrap the painter around the propeller when you back up! We prefer to tow the
dinghy off either aft cleat.
•As owners, we would very much appreciate your special care when beaching the dinghy. Beaches in
the San Juans are seldom gentle, sandy beaches; often they are rocky and covered by barnacles
equipped with extra sharp rubber cutters. So any extra care will be appreciated.
•The honda outboard has a four stroke engine, so do not add oil to the gasoline mixture – it uses
straight gasoline. San Juan Sailing will be sure you have full gas cans which are normally in the port
aft locker. This is the only locker where the gas fumes will not get into the boat. Also please do not
cruise with the outboards on the dinghy as a large wake or gust of wind can overturn the dinghy.
•The Honda is light so it’s easy to transfer from the stern rail mount to the dinghy transom (and vice
versa) by hand.

15
Dinghy
- Honda Outboard Operating Instructions
• Starting the Outboard
• Push the fuel valve lever (starboard aft corner of the
outboard) aft to open.
• Pull out the choke switch (starboard forward corner of
the outboard).
• Open the air vent on the top of the fuel cap by turning
counterclockwise.
• Make sure the black U-shaped kill clip (with the red
lanyard) is clipped into the red shut-off knob (port
forward corner of the outboard).
• Turn the handle throttle ¼ turn counterclockwise.
• Pull the cord until it starts (you shouldn’t have to pull it
more than 5 times).
• There is no transmission--just throttle up to go forward
and throttle down to stop. If you want to go in reverse-
-just swivel the outboard around 180 degrees.
• Stopping the Outboard
• Shut the outboard off by pushing in the red shut-off
knob (where the kill clip is clipped in). Or just pull
the red lanyard until the clip pops off.
• To avoid prop damage, shut the outboard off and
raise it out of the water before you reach the shore.
Pull the outboard forward and out of the water until
it clicks and stays in place.
• To put the outboard shaft back in the water, release
the stainless-steel lever on the starboard side of the
shaft.
• Put the outboard back on the outboard mount on
the stern rail and tighten both braces.
• Push the fuel valve lever forward to close and close
the air vent on top of the fuel cap

16
Dinghy
- Outboard Troubleshooting
• If the engine won’t start, review start steps 1-6 above to make sure
you’ve done all 6 steps.
• There is a spare spark plug and spark plug wrench in with the safety
equipment in case you need them.
• If the outboard is running and you’re heading toward shore, and the
engine suddenly quits, it’s usually that someone has forgotten to vent
the fuel cap.
• If the engine is running fine but the propeller isn’t moving, the shear
pin is probably broken – just take the cotter pin out to remove the
propeller and replace the broken shear pin (a spare pin is located
forward of the shaft under the handle grip).

17
Dodger, Bimini & Full Enclosure
• As with all dodgers, please be gentle. If the glass becomes spotted
with salt please get a pot of fresh water from the galley sink and
“flood” the salt crystals off the plastic. Our dodger has some very
handy rails on the back and sides that make staying upright and
onboard easier. The connector canvas between the dodger and bimini
can be removed by unzipping it. If you do remove it please roll and
store it.
• We also have the panels to create a full enclosure around the cockpit.
However, when not zipped in place they are a bit bulky to store,
therefore we do not have these on the boat for summer charters. If
you are doing a spring or fall charter and would like to use them, please
let SJS know ahead of your boarding.

18
Bow Thruster Control
Docking
- Bow Thruster
• The bow thruster is only operational when the engine is running.
• The bow thruster is deployed by pushing the green and red buttons
together. You will hear a series of beeps indicating that the thruster is
dropping down out of the hull.
• The bow thruster will retract automatically after 6 minutes if not used
and you will hear the same series of beeps as played during
deployment. (We activate the thruster with a few short bursts to one
side or the other if close quarter maneuvering is going to exceed 6
minutes)
• It can be retracted on demand by pressing and holding the red and
green buttons until you hear the series of beeps.
• We recommend using the thruster in short bursts of a few seconds.
• If using the bow thruster is planned for docking, we recommend
deploying the bow thruster early as it is retractable and takes about 30
seconds to get into maneuvering position. Please do not deploy the
bow thruster above 2.5 kts as it has a large surface area once deployed
and affect steering. Deploying the thruster above 3 kts can damage
the system and render it unavailable during docking.

19
Docking
- Notes on Docking
• Cascadia has twin rudders, a deep keel, and high freeboard.
• As the prop is between the two rudders there is no propwash, but there is a propwalk to
port.
• Cascadia has a standard shaft drive, not a sail drive.
• The high freeboard can result in significant windage at times.
• Throttle control is at the starboard helm.
• We find it helpful to have a spotter at the front of the boat directing the driver, especially
when docking to port.
• We find she is easiest to dock bow in with a starboard tie.
• Please remember that the bow sprit protrudes a bit over 2ft past the hull (we have found this
can be an issue if there is a high dock locker or transformer on the dock).

20
Expansion
Tank
Water Pump
Water Tank Selection
• The water pump and tank switches are located in
the sole on the port hatch in front of the
companion way stairs.
• When the arrow on the dial is inline with the PV
pipe the tank is open to the system. When the
arrow is perpendicular tank is closed.
• We use one tank at a time and then switch the tank
when the first is empty. The Navicolor display at
the chart able will tell you the remaining tank
volume
• Front Tank - 53 gal
• Aft Tank - 87 gal
Domestic
– Water System
Tank 3 “off”
Tank 2 “on”