Catrike 2007 Trail User manual

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Contents
04 Safety and Riding Tips
06 Maintenance Tips
07 Assembly Instructions
20 Road Suspension Assembly
26 Limited Warranty
Introduction
Thank you for purchasing a Catrike! You made a great decision
by buying a fine quality product that performs well and will bring
you fun and good times for years to come.
Please take a moment to read through this document, especially
the sections on safety and riding tips. You may find that the most
comfortable place to be while you're doing this is sitting
(stationary) on your trike!
We hope you enjoy owning and riding your Catrike!
Happy Trails,
Paulo Camasmie,
CEO Big Cat HPV, LLC

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Safety and riding tips
Safety tips
Riding safely depends on many things, from proper equipment to alertness to your attitude on the road. Above all, use common
sense.
The ideal place to ride your Catrike is bicycle trails & paths. Catrikes are probably the best choice in that setting. You will enjoy
the view, relax and socialize. You will have the most comfort, peace of mind and fun. If you elect, however, to ride on streets,
you will have to do it at your own risk and know that whether it is a regular bicycle, a recumbent or a tricycle you have to be very
careful. Because a trike is low to the ground you have to be extra careful with cars and trucks. Therefore you have to take great
care to make yourself visible. In part, you do this with equipment such as brightly colored clothing and helmets, use of the safety
flag that comes with every Catrike, and also with blinking lights and reflective stickers. But you also have to ride in such a way
that you engage the attention of motorists, making eye contact, signaling your intentions, being courteous, smiling and waving.
Use your voice to get attention. You also pay a lot of attention when riding in traffic and you obey all traffic laws and rules of the
road. The positive side is that recumbent tricycles are very much a novelty, and once you make sure that you are being seen,
you generally find that motorists leave you more room and respect when you're on our Catrikes than they do when you're on
upright bicycles. Nevertheless, always assume that they don't see you.
Reflective and high-visibility gear is great (and we use it all the time), but it's no substitute for lights when riding at night or in
low-light conditions. The new super-high-output LED rear lights are very effective. Any small headlight (those that look like
flashlights) may be enough to help oncoming motorists see you, but it's not sufficient to actually light your way. If you're going to
ride at night, spend the money and get a good headlight.
While it may seem silly to wear a helmet on a low-slung tricycle, you should always do so. It's very hard to tip the trike over, but
it can happen. Also, if you have a close encounter of the worst kind with a car or stationary object, chances are you won't stay
on the trike. Always wear a CPSC-approved cycling helmet when riding your Catrike. A brightly colored helmet also helps
motorists see you.
You're very low, and it's possible for road grit to get whipped up by the wind or kicked up by passing cars and hit you in the
face. This is especially true in the spring in areas where sand is used on the roads in winter. It's a good idea to wear sunglasses
to protect your eyes. You may also want to wear gloves. It's easy to reach the ground on your Catrike, and getting a palm full of
sand and ground glass is no fun.
We strongly recommend the use of a mirror. Don't rely entirely on it. Turn and look before changing lanes or turning across the
line of traffic.
Riding along a line of parked cars presents a particular danger for those on low-slung bikes and trikes. Motorists have a habit of
opening their doors suddenly without looking behind them…and even if they do look, they're concentrating on looking for
oncoming cars, not a low trike. When riding along a line of parked cars, look for occupants inside as you approach. If you see
someone sitting in the car, give them a bit of extra room.
Pedestrians, too, often aren't looking where you are. Use caution when approaching crosswalks and use your bell, horn or your
voice to alert those who may be stepping into the street.
If you carry loaded panniers, avoid putting the weight too high and too far aft, or it can cause poor, even unsafe, handling.

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Riding tips
If you don't have experience with recumbent tricycles, you may find that for the first few rides you experience noticeable pedal
steer (pushing hard on the pedals makes the trike swerve) and brake steer (grabbing one brake harder than the other causes the
trike to swerve). These two phenomena become much less noticeable as you gain experience. Pedal steer is minimized or
eliminated by pedaling smoothly at a fairly high cadence, rather than mashing hard. Brake steer is minimized by braking
smoothly and evenly…if the trike lurches under braking you're overdoing it (it's like driving your car…you don't stand on the
brakes every time you slow the car; rather, you learn to modulate the pressure so that the car does not lurch).
The smoothest, most enjoyable ride comes when you learn not to over control the trike. The steering is very responsive, and
does not require much input at all to make the trike change direction. The less you try to steer, the smoother the ride will be.
It's possible to get the trike up onto two wheels, but this should be avoided. It puts a lot of stress on the components and can
cause loss of control. Bicycle wheels, hubs and tires are not designed for heavy lateral loads, and if you go up on two wheels
you're asking them to do something they were never meant for. Your Catrike is wonderfully responsive and handles very well,
but it's possible to overdo it. Use common sense. You'll find that the trike stays more firmly planted when going around a corner
at speed if you lean to the inside of the turn.
CAUTION: The brakes on your Catrike are very powerful. It is quite possible to do a “stoppie” on the Catrike (lock the front
wheels and lift the rear wheel off the ground by jamming on the brakes). In extreme cases, you can hit the chain rings on the
ground and damage them. Use common sense. Don't use maximum braking unless you really need to. (At high enough speeds,
the trike won't lift the rear wheel…it will just skid. And at very low speeds, there isn't enough momentum to hit the chain rings on
the ground.)
CAUTION: Brake Steering: Our frames are designed for a diminished brake steer effect. However keep in mind that the
trike is not a heavy vehicle such as a car. It does not have hydraulic, electronics or self correcting mechanisms either. It is
instead, a very light recreational vehicle with a mechanical steering linkage that carries a rider sometimes over 8 times its weight.
Therefore the weight & dynamics of the driver can exert total control over the capabilities of the vehicle. It does demand that the
rider develops proper riding skills, such as smooth pedaling, smooth steering and smooth breaking and that it is always
conscious when riding. The Catrike has front brakes only, since in a breaking situation 90% of the weight is transferred to the
front of the trike. The front brakes are also independent, meaning that you can break the right wheel only, or the left wheel only.
Therefore, especially in high speed or downhill situations, it is mandatory that you pull both brakes at the same time and with the
same intensity. If you elect however, to brake only with one brake, this could cause the trike to steer out of your path and cause
serious injury or death.
CAUTION: Our peace boom and boom clamp is designed for high pressure clamping and has an indexing system to keep
the boom from twisting more than a few degrees. Make sure the boom clamp is tight enough, so the boom will not twist while you
pedal. The indexing tab should be used as a guide; it is not intended to keep the boom from twisting under pressure. Just like a
bicycle seat post clamp, it is the rider's responsibility to check the boom clamp for tightness. There is a plastic shim included
between the boom and the main frame to eliminate any gap and to increase clamping action. Make sure the plastic shim is
correctly placed before riding your Catrike. If for any reason, you are unable to install or tighten the boom clamp or are missing
the boom shim, please do not ride your Catrike and contact your Catrike Dealer. Failure to do so might cause the boom to twist
and cause serious injury.

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Maintenance tips
Make it a habit to inspect your trike from time to time, especially when new. Fasteners have a habit of working loose at first and
this can cause a safety hazard. Also, you'll find that the right front wheel tends to pick up debris from the edge of the road faster
than the left front wheel, because it's running closer to the curb. Catrikes come with Kevlar-belted tires for puncture resistance,
but this does not mean they're immune to flats.
Keeping your trike clean will maximize its life. Wash it from time to time, but avoid the use of pressure washers. They do a great
job of getting dirt out of tight spaces, but they do an equally good job of driving lubricant out of where it needs to be. It's better to
use a bucket of water, mild detergent and a soft brush.
Many new owners tend to over-lube the chain. It should not be dripping with lube. A properly lubricated chain looks dry and
clean, and while it may leave a bit of a mark on your hand if you grab it, it should not be a gloppy mess. Use your favorite lube
and follow the instructions.
Always keep your tires filled to the recommended pressure (printed on the tire sidewall). The tubes are not entirely airtight, and
the tire will lose pressure over time. Trikes by nature will scrub the tires a bit, so they may not last as long as they would on a
bicycle. Overly aggressive riding will shorten tire life.
Your seat mesh will stretch a bit and settle in over time. It's not meant to be drum-tight…it's meant to support you comfortably.
Pull the straps tight from time to time when the trike is new…eventually the mesh and straps will settle into a stable configuration
that you'll find is quite comfortable.
If you've purchased the optional neck rest, we recommend placing the pad so that it's behind your neck, just under the lower
edge of the helmet, and in a position that lets you rest your neck on it if you need to but which doesn't force you to have your
neck on it all the time. The neck rest is nice and soft, but it does transmit road vibration.
If you're adjusting the trike to fit another rider, make absolutely certain that the chain is of the right length. In order to get the
maximum possible gear range, the Catrike drive train pushes the derailleurs close to their maximum capacity. The chain must be
long enough to handle the big chain ring/big cog combination…if it's too short; it's possible to severely damage the drive train by
shifting into this gear combination and applying power. You can get away with a slightly slack chain, but NEVER ride with a
chain that's too short.
Improper toe can cause extremely rapid tire wear. Toe is set by the mechanic during installation of the tie rod. We've heard
reports from the field of improperly set toe, with resulting excessive tire wear. Don't assume it's been done right! Check it
yourself. Toe is checked by measuring the distance between the front tires at approximately axle height ahead of the axle, then
comparing this measurement with the distance between the tires behind the axle. The difference should be no more than 1/16
inch with the front narrower than the rear. See the section on toe in the assembly instructions to learn more.
Serial numbers for the trikes are as follow:
CTV# for Villager
CTT# for Trail
CTP# for Pocket
CTR# for Road
CTE# for Expedition
CT7# for 700
It is very common among Catrike owners on the net to
identify themselves with their names followed by their
trike models and serial numbers. Welcome to this nice
group.
You will see on the bottom of your trike your frame serial number.

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Assembly instructions
Your Catrike should be fully assembled, tested and fine tuned by your Catrike dealer or local bike store. Here are the assembly
instructions in order to show how this process is done.
The first step is to inventory the parts:
A complete trike includes:
•Main frame with cups for headsets in place. The idler pulley and chain tube also are pre-assembled
and installed on the frame.
•Quick-release boom clamp.
•Boom.
•Seat mesh.
•One tie rod with two aluminum rod-end bearings, jam nuts, and tie rod bolts.
•Two spindle/axle assemblies with headsets, hollow axles, axle spacers (when required).
•Adjustable handlebars.
•A plastic boom shim.
•Quick-release rear wheel skewer.
•Brake cables and two lengths of brake cable housing.
•Gear cable housing.
•Cable ferrules and cable ends.
•Flag mount.
•Safety flag.
•Derailleur hanger with screw.
•Computer sensor mount
•Space Neck Rest (for Expedition and 700).
•Rockshox Monarch R Shock (for Road).
•Two front wheels with tubes and tires installed.
•One rear wheel with tube and tire installed.
•Disk brakes
•Brake levers
•Shifters
•Cassette
•Crank Set
•Front derailleur
•Rear derailleur
•Bottom bracket
•Chain with (1) MasterLink
•Mirror
•Pedals
•Hand rest
•Mirror mount
Other accessories such as a rack or fenders may also be in the box.

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Because we have no control over how tightly you assemble your Catrike it is extremely important for you to re-check all of the
threaded fasteners (pedals, axle bolts, and all other nuts and bolts) on the trike after you've ridden it for a couple of hours, just to
make sure everything is still tight. Periodic checks during the riding season also are a good idea. Virtually all of the trouble
reports we receive are nothing more than fasteners that have worked loose.
TIP: An easy way to estimate the proper tightness for aluminum fasteners is to use two or three fingers on the wrench. This
limits the amount of force you can apply to the tool. Use two fingers for small fasteners, or three for larger ones.
•A set of metric Allen wrenches.
•A small adjustable wrench. We strongly recommend against the use of pliers to hold and turn nuts. It only
serves to frustrate you and destroy the nut.
•A bicycle chain tool.
•A small screwdriver (to adjust the derailleurs).
•A bicycle cable and housing cutter (ordinary wire snips tend to flatten and mangle the end of the cable).
•Torx driver.
•Cassette installation tool (for standard cassette).
Tools required
To put your Catrike together, you'll need:

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Begin assembly
Prepare the wheels.
• Attach the brake rotors to the front wheels using the screws provided with the brakes.
Both the brake rotors and the tread on the tire are directional so attention must be paid to how they are mounted. The direction
of the brake rotor and tire must match!
The direction of rotation is indicated on the brake rotors.
Direction of rotation for the tires can be determined by looking at the
tread. All treads have some form of “arrow” contour to them. The
arrow is always pointing in the direction of rotation.
On the tire, the “arrows” point left, giving you direction of rotation.
Install the rear wheel.
• Insert the derailleur hanger into its recess on the right dropout and tighten the bolt.
Insert the quick release into the rear wheel, put the wheel into the dropouts, tighten and
close the quick release.
Prepare the spindles.
• First, identify the right and left spindles.
Mount the brake calipers on the spindles. The left-hand assembly has the brake caliper on top, and the right hand has the brake
caliper underneath. Use the provided M6 washers between the head of the calipers mounting brackets and the plates to space
out the bolt.
Install the spindles with headsets into the head tubes.
• Remove the top half of the head set assembly and slide the spindle up into the head tube. Replace the
Teflon bearing and dust cover on the spindle. Install the handle bar support tube onto the spindle without
tightening the bolts. For standard handlebar positioning, the handle bar supports should angle slightly up,
not down (700 probably best to install handle bar support angled down). Replace the head set top cap and
tighten it to 10 inch-pounds (or enough to eliminate play while leaving the wheels to turn freely). Now
adjust the handle bars in the proper position and tighten them down.

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Catrike FSA headset assembly

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Install the front wheels.
• Attach the front wheels to their respective spindle/steering arm assemblies. First, identify the left and right wheels and set
them on the correct side of the trike.
If the caliper mounting bolts have been tightened, loosen them.
Adjust the brake pads; use the knurled plastic adjuster knobs on either
side of the caliper until the pads are firmly contacting the rotor. First
screw the larger knob (the one closest to the wheel hub) in until the disc
is offset slightly away from the wheel hub. Then screw the smaller knob in
until the rotor is held tightly.
Tighten the caliper mounting bolts.
Back off the pad adjuster knobs until the disc spins freely and without
noise…about 1/2 turn each.
Install the brake levers and shifters on the grip portion of the handle bars. First, slide on the brake lever, then the shifter. See
the following section for determining your preferred handle bar positioning.
Now it's time to finish installing the handlebars you started when working on the spindles.
The wheel should now spin freely. If you hear any noise, back off the adjusting knobs a bit more until it goes away.
Unscrew the quick release to remove domed axle nuts for wheel installation.
Now you can place the wheel in position, sliding the disc in between the brake pads. Place the wheel hub opening directly over
the axle, then slide the axle through the hub from behind the spindle assembly. The quick release lever goes on the inside of
the spindle. The bolt and its retaining ring go on wheel. Place the cone-shaped retaining ring (flat side in) against the hub, thread
the quick release bolt in and hand-tighten it. Then close the quick release level for a tight hold.
Brake Adjustment
Next, adjust the calipers. One of the nice things about the Avid disc brakes on your Catrike is that they are very easy to adjust:
Domed axle nut on
Outside when installed
Quick Release on Inside
when installed on trike

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Adjustable handlebars
• Your new Catrike adjustable handlebars can be adjusted in many ways to give each
Catrike owner a custom fit. The long, horizontal portion of the handlebar has a gentle
incline to it. For those riders who prefer lower handlebars, this can be installed upside
down to provide a gentle downward slope. The same holds true for the shorter grip
portion of the handlebar. It has a gentle angle leaning forward, but can be reversed. You
can see the difference in mounting in the pictures below. The picture on the top shows
the recommended standard setup.
The handlebar sets come in left and right sides. When mounting them upside down,
simply swap sides to keep the heads of the screws on the inside of the trike, making them
easier to reach with the Allen key.
TIP: Be sure the tightening bolts are completely loosened before attempting to move or
rotate the short grip portion of the handlebar to avoid scratching the paint.
They can be adjusted to be long or
short for better ergonomics. When
adjusting the handlebars in short, the
excess post can be used for mounting
mirrors or a computer.
They can be adjusted wide out for a better turning radius or in close to the body for better aerodynamics. The “twist” of the grip
portion of the handlebar is also fully adjustable.
Install the tie rod.
Next comes the tie rod.
The rod goes under the seat side rails and over the main
frame tube, and bolts in place on top of the small plates on
the spindle assemblies. (Except Villager where tie rod is
installed on bottom as shown on following page).
• All tie rods come with one right hand and one left hand tie rod ends. For now, just install the tie rod. We'll be checking the toe
later in the assembly instructions.

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TIE RODS for all Catrikes except Villager
The conical spacer included on the tie rod assembly goes
between the tie rod end and the mounting plate on the
spindle as shown.
Assemble the trike, and check the toe.
If adjustment is necessary, loosen the jam nuts and twist
the tie rod between your fingers to adjust the length.
Make sure the rod ends are parallel when tightening the
jam nuts. Flats are provided on the tie rod to fit an 11mm wrench.
TOE IN MUST BE CHECKED AND ADJUSTED BEFORE RIDING.
VILLAGER TIE ROD INSTALLATION
The tie rod on the Catrike Villager installs underneath the
mounting bracket.
The conical spacer included on the tie rod assembly goes
between the tie rod end and mounting plate on the spindle as
shown.
The tie rod fits under the mainframe and between the two chain tubes.

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Bolt each rod end bearing to its spindle assembly, placing the ball of the rod-end bearing
on top of the spindle plate. The bolt goes in from the top, and the nut goes on
underneath the plate. Tighten everything snugly.
TIP: This is one of the few places on the Catrike where a steel bolt is threaded into a
steel nut. The caution about the ease of stripping threads does not apply here.
Install the brake cables.
• This is done by threading the cable through the brake lever and fitting the small metal
cylinder on the end into the recess in the lever. Screw the barrel adjusters on the
bottom of the levers almost all of the way in (they'll be used later to take up slack during
brake adjustment).
The procedure for the left and right brake is the same. Slide the brake cable housing on.
You should have eight cable ferrules. Four are for the brake cable housings. Thread the
cable through a ferrule, then through the housing, then through another ferrule.
Thread the end of the cable through the fittings in the brake actuating arm. The ferrule fits under the rubber boot. Loosen the
cable clamp bolt, put the cable under the clamp plate, pull it taut and retighten the bolt. Using a bicycle cable cutter (preferred) or
a SHARP pair of wire cutters cut the brake cable so that a few inches extend beyond the clamp bolt.
TIP: If you run out of cable ends, and can't get to a bike shop for more, you can use a drop of cyanoacrylate glue (Krazy Glue),
some epoxy or a blob of solder to seal the cable ends.
Adjust the brakes
• First pull hard on both brake levers to seat the cables. Turn the barrel adjusters out until the levers do not bottom out when the
brakes are applied fully. Screw in the lock nuts on the adjusters.
If the brake makes noise or drags, adjust the brake pad relief using the pad adjusting knobs.

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Install the boom on the main frame tube.
There is a boom shim inside of the main frame. The boom will fit very snug inside your frame.
First insert the boom clamp on the boom with the indexing tab in the channel of the boom (make sure the indexing tab is toward
the bottom bracket). Slide the boom clamp about half way up then insert the boom into the main frame. Now you can slide the
boom clamp over the main frame tube and adjust the boom to the approximate length and tighten the quick releases enough to
keep it from slipping. You can adjust it to the correct length later.
CAUTION: Make sure the boom clamp is tight enough, so the boom will not twist while you pedal. Just like a bicycle seat
post clamp, it is the rider responsibility to check for the boom clamp tightness. The boom clamp is designed for a high pressure
clamp action. It also included a plastic shim to be installed between the boom and the main frame for zero gap and increased
clamping action. Make sure the plastic shim is correctly placed and that the boom clamp is tight enough to avoid the boom to
spin inside the frame. If for any reason, you are unable to install or tight the boom clamp enough, please don't ride and contact
your Catrike dealer. Failure to do so might cause the boom to twist and cause serious injury.
Install the derailleurs.
• Install the front derailleur on the derailleur post. Line up the cage with the chain rings and position the curve of the derailleur cage
so that it clears the big chain ring by about 2mm (1/8”). There should be a small plastic guide taped to the cage to assist you in this.
Install the rear derailleur by bolting it in place.
Next, run the shifter cables.
• Cable guides have been provided on the boom and rear chain stay. The actual routing is not important, as long as sharp
bends are avoided. The recommended routing for the left side (front derailleur cable) is to run the cable between the seat brace
and the seat mesh (not yet installed) from behind before running it forward. Likewise, run the rear derailleur cable between the
seat brace and the mesh from the front.
•Installation of the cables at the derailleurs
is similar to the installation on the brakes.
Put a ferrule on the end of each cable
housing. Thread the cables into the
derailleurs, pull them taut, clamp them
down, trim and seal the ends. Before you
clamp the rear derailleur cable in place,
screw the barrel adjuster on the derailleur
in as far as it will go, then back it off 1 to 1-
1/2 full turns. Note that there is no
adjuster on the front derailleur.

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Install Pedals.
We strongly recommend that you use clip less pedals (provided with every
Catrike). They're not only safer; they're far more convenient and comfortable
than using plain pedals.
Install the seat mesh.
TIP: Using anti-seize compound on the pedal threads will make future disassembly much easier and will help prevent damage to
the threads in the crank arms.
Lay the seat mesh on top of your Catrike with the patch toward the top of the seat. Insert the buckles into each other on the
back of the seat leaving the straps loose and position the seat mesh so that it is square on the frame, with the cutouts for the
lower seat support tubes positioned properly and tighten all of the straps.
You will find that when you sit on the seat, the mesh will loosen a bit. This is normal.
Adjust the position and re-tighten as needed. The seat mesh will stretch a bit at first,
requiring re-tightening the straps, but will soon break in and stop moving. The comfort
of the Catrike seat comes from the mesh cradling and supporting your body, so it’s ok if
the buckles slip a bit as they find their preferred tension. Trying to keep then drum-tight
is not only futile, it’s not as comfortable as letting them support your body fully. There
are elastic strap keepers on the male straps. When the seat is fully adjusted tuck the
excess straps under the elastic keepers. This keeps the straps nice and tidy and away
from the chain and idler pulley.
Set the boom length.
• Sit on the trike, wearing shoes like those you'll have on when riding, and adjust the boom length. This is done by loosening the
boom release enough to allow the boom to move, then putting your instep on one pedal and extending your leg fully (the boom
will rotate…just move it back to vertical with your hand). You should be able to lock your knee, but not have to lock your knee.
You can fine-tune the position later. Re-tighten the boom release (or pinch bolts) enough to keep the boom from slipping.
Humans are capable of producing some incredible power for very short periods of time when accelerating from a dead stop. If
your boom is not clamped tightly enough, it will rotate and slip forward.

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Install the chain.
• Start at the chain rings in the front of the trike. Run the chain through the front
derailleur; between the main cross member and the tie rod; through the upper chain
tube; under the idler wheel; over the rear cassette; through the rear derailleur and back
through the lower chain tube. Now you can use the MasterLink to connect the chain
together.
Note the chain routing above there is a chain guide
tube (return) running beneath the cross member.
The drive part of chain runs underneath the black
guide pulley and over the top of the chain ring.
TIPS: It's easier to thread the chain if you immobilize the crank. This can get messy! Protect your work surface and keep paper
towels handy. It's easy to thread the chain through the rear derailleur cage incorrectly. Make sure the chain runs cleanly through
it, and not over the retaining tabs.
Adjust the chain length. To do this, shift onto the largest cog on the rear and the largest chain ring in the front. Pull the chain
taut, so that the rear derailleur cage is fully extended. Then add two links. That will be close to the ideal length for the chain. Use
the included PowerLink to hold the chain together.
If your Catrike will be used by more than one person, feel free to
use two MasterLink so that the chain can be easily adjusted for
other riders: simply set the trike up for the shorter rider, then insert
a piece of chain long enough to accommodate the taller rider. If this
short piece of chain is between two MasterLinks, adjusting the trike
should take only a couple of minutes. It's a good idea to mark the
boom for both length and orientation for each rider using a Sharpie
marker, so that the setting can be repeated easily.
Just to be clear on what we mean by “two links,” check the photo.
Don't forget that the PowerLink counts as one link.
There's a trick to opening a PowerLink that seems to elude many people. First hold
the link between your thumb and forefinger, and push the plates together (towards
one another). Then slide them in opposite directions, as if you were snapping your
fingers. Opening a PowerLink should be easy…if you find yourself reaching for a pair
of pliers you're not doing it correctly.
TIP: It's easier to work on a chain under
tension if you create a loop of slack and
hold it in place with a stiff, bent wire, made
from an old spoke or wire coat hanger.

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Adjust the derailleurs.
• Your Catrike should have shipped with information sheets for both the front and rear derailleur that describe this process. It will
also be described in any bicycle maintenance book.
Inflate the tires.
• Fill the tires to the recommended pressure (you can find this on the sidewall of the tire).
Adjust the toe.
•Any vehicle with left and right wheels has a setting called “toe.” This refers to the extent to which the front wheels point towards
one another. Toe in means that the front edges of the wheels point inward slightly. Toe out means they point outward slightly.
The purpose of toe is to keep the steering nice and tight. All bearings have a little slop in them. By applying a bit of force to the
entire system, it's possible to remove that slop. Too much toe and you cause the tires to scrub. This causes premature tire wear
and increased rolling resistance. What you're looking for is just a little bit of toe.
Toe is checked by measuring the distance between the front wheels. Check the distance between the front of wheels at axle
height and then at the rear of the wheels at axle height. The measured distances should be the same or 1/16th of an inch closer
in the front; a very slight toe-in.
This can be done with a tape measure or a Catrike Calibro tool. Make sure to have the wheels point straight ahead using either
method. When using a tape measure it is best to measure from the centerline of the tire to the centerline of the other tire at axle
height (approximately 9 ½” off the ground). First measure the front, running tape measure just under the boom at axle height,
then, measure the rear, running the tape measure just under the bottom of seat frame at axle height.
For measurement using the Catrike Calibro tool, use the same method but you can get more accurate by measuring from the
inside of the rim to the inside of the other rim at axle height using the telescoping feature of the Calibro. This is a very important
setting and if not correct your Catrike will not handle well and your tires will wear out very quickly.
Now do the same for the back of the wheel, running the tape just above the seat. The rear measurement should be no more
than 1/16” greater than the front measurement. It's very important to get this right…if you have a quarter inch of toe your tires
will wear out VERY quickly and handling performance will be degraded. Proper toe-in will also affect rolling efficiency. Too much
toe-in (greater than 1/16” or toe-out where the front of wheel is wider than the rear) are to be avoidable as either incorrect setting
will significantly reduce rolling efficiency.
If adjustment is necessary, loosen the jam nuts and twist the tie rod between your fingers to adjust the length. Make sure the tie
rod ends are parallel with tightening the jam nuts. Flats are provided on the tie rod to fit an 11m wrench.
Toe must be checked and adjusted before riding.
TIE RODS

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Seat Back Adjustability.
The Villager, Trail and Road have the ability to adjust the seat back to suit the rider’s preference. This is a quick
and simple adjustment. Loosen the quick release. Choose desired setting and tighten quick release to keep the
seat angle in place. This is designed to provide a quick and easy way to change the seat angle when needed.
The Road adjusts to four different seat angles.
The two seat brackets have counter bores or
indentations that will allow you to choose your seat
angle. There is one quick release that will provide the
clamping action to keep the seat at the desired angle
chosen. This system is also designed to provide a quick
and easy way to change the seat angle when needed.

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Catrike Road Assembly Instructions