Celestron PowerSeeker 21008 User manual

P
Po ow we er rS Se ee ek ke er r®
®
S
Se er ri ie es s T Te el le es sc co op pe es s
I
IN NS ST TR RU UC CT TI IO ON N M MA AN NU UA AL L
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● P Po ow we er rS Se ee ek ke er r 4 40 0A AZ Z # # 2 21 10 00 08 8 ● ● P Po ow we er rS Se ee ek ke er r 5 50 0A AZ Z # # 2 21 10 03 39 9
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● P Po ow we er rS Se ee ek ke er r 6 60 0A AZ Z # # 2 21 10 04 41 1 ● ● P Po ow we er rS Se ee ek ke er r 7 70 0A AZ Z # # 2 21 10 03 36 6
● ● P Po ow we er rS Se ee ek ke er r 7 76 6A AZ Z # # 2 21 10 04 44 4
ENGLISH

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Table of Contents
INTRODUCTION....................................................................................................................................3
ASSEMBLY.............................................................................................................................................6
setting up the tripod..............................................................................................................................6
attaching the telescope tube to the mount.............................................................................................7
moving the telescope manually ............................................................................................................8
installing the diagonal & eyepiece (refractor) – 60az & 70az..............................................................8
installing the diagonal & eyepiece (refractor) – 40az & 50az..............................................................8
installing the eyepiece on the newtonian..............................................................................................9
installing & using the barlow lens........................................................................................................9
installing & using the 1.5x erecting eyepiece – 40az & 50az...............................................................9
installing the finderscope (except 40az).............................................................................................10
aligning the finderscope......................................................................................................................10
TELESCOPE BASICS...........................................................................................................................11
Image Orientation...............................................................................................................................12
Focusing..............................................................................................................................................12
Calculating Magnification..................................................................................................................12
Determining Field of View.................................................................................................................13
General Observing Hints ....................................................................................................................13
ASTRONOMY BASICS........................................................................................................................14
The Celestial Coordinate System........................................................................................................14
Motion of the Stars .............................................................................................................................15
CELESTIAL OBSERVING...................................................................................................................16
Observing the Moon...........................................................................................................................16
Observing the Planets.........................................................................................................................16
Observing the Sun...............................................................................................................................16
Observing Deep-Sky Objects .............................................................................................................17
Seeing Conditions...............................................................................................................................19
ASTROPHOTOGRAPHY .....................................................................................................................20
Short Exposure Prime Focus Photography.........................................................................................20
Planetary & Lunar Photography with Special Imagers ......................................................................20
CCD Imaging for Deep-Sky Objects..................................................................................................20
Terrestrial Photography......................................................................................................................20
TELESCOPE MAINTENANCE............................................................................................................21
Care and Cleaning of the Optics.........................................................................................................21
Collimation of a Newtonian................................................................................................................21
OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES...............................................................................................................24
POWERSEEKER SPECIFICATIONS.................................................................................................25

3
Congratulations on your purchase of a PowerSeeker telescope. The PowerSeeker Series of telescopes come in several
different models and this manual covers five models mounted on Alt-Az Mounts ((an altazimuth is the simplest type of
mount with two motions – altitude (up & down) and azimuth (side-to-side)) --- 40mm refractor, 50mm refractor, 60mm
refractor, 70mm refractor, and a 76mm Newtonian. The PowerSeeker Series is made of the highest quality materials to
ensure stability and durability. All this adds up to a telescope that gives you a lifetime of pleasure with a minimal amount
of maintenance.
These telescopes were designed for the First Time Buyer offering exceptional value. The PowerSeeker series features a
compact and portable design with ample optical performance to excite any newcomer to the world of amateur astronomy.
In addition, your PowerSeeker telescope is ideal for terrestrial observations which will open your eyes with its superb high
power viewing.
PowerSeeker telescopes carry a two year limited warranty. For details see our website at www.celestron.com
Some of the many standard features of the PowerSeeker include:
•All coated glass optical elements for clear, crisp images.
•Smooth functioning, rigid altazimuth mount with easy pointing to located objects.
•Preassembled aluminum tripod ensures a stable platform.
•Quick and easy no-tool set up.
•CD-ROM “The SkyX -- astronomy software which provides education about the sky and printable sky maps.
•All models can be used terrestrially as well as astronomically with the standard accessories included.
Take time to read through this manual before embarking on your journey through the Universe. It may take a few
observing sessions to become familiar with your telescope, so you should keep this manual handy until you have fully
mastered your telescope’s operation. The manual gives detailed information regarding each step as well as needed reference
material and helpful hints to make your observing experience simple and pleasurable as possible.
Your telescope is designed to give you years of fun and rewarding observations. However, there are a few things to
consider before using your telescope that will ensure your safety and protect your equipment.
Warning
yNever look directly at the sun with the naked eye or with a telescope (unless you have the proper solar
filter). Permanent and irreversible eye damage may result.
yNever use your telescope to project an image of the sun onto any surface. Internal heat build-up can
damage the telescope and any accessories attached to it.
yNever use an eyepiece solar filter or a Herschel wedge. Internal heat build-up inside the telescope can
cause these devices to crack or break, allowing unfiltered sunlight to pass through to the eye.
yDo not leave the telescope unsupervised, either when children are present or adults who may not be
familiar with the correct operating procedures of your telescope.

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Figure 1-1 PowerSeeker 60AZ Refractor
(PowerSeeker 40AZ, 50AZ & 70AZ Similar)
1. Objective Lens 7. Altitude Slow Motion Rod Assembly (not on
40AZ & 50AZ)
2. Telescope Optical Tube 8. Accessory Tray
3. Finderscope 9. Tripod
4. Eyepiece 10. Azimuth Lock (not on 40AZ & 50AZ)
5. Diagonal 11. Alt-Az Mount
6. Focus Knob 12. Altitude Locking Knob (not on 40AZ & 50AZ)
1
2
3
4
12
7
6
5
11
10
9
8

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Figure 1-2 PowerSeeker 76AZ Newtonian
1. Finderscope 7. Azimuth Lock
2. Eyepiece 8. Accessory Tray
3. Collimation Adjustment Screws (in rear) 9. Tripod
4. Telescope Optical Tube 10. Alt-Az Mount
5. Primary Mirror 11. Altitude Lock
6. Altitude Slow Motion Rod Assembly 12. Focus Knob
1
2
4
5
3
12
6
10
9
11
7
8

6
This section covers the assembly instructions for your PowerSeeker telescope. Your telescope should be set up indoor the
first time so that it is easy to identify the various parts and familiarize yourself with the correct assembly procedure before
attempting it outdoor.
Each PowerSeeker comes in one box. The pieces in the box for all models are – optical tube, altazimuth mount, and “The
SkyX” CD-ROM. The 40AZ & 50AZ includes 0.96” accessories – 20mm eyepiece, 12mm eyepiece (50AZ only), 8mm
eyepiece (40AZ only), 4mm eyepiece (50AZ only), 3x Barlow lens (2x Barlow with 40AZ), and 1.5x erecting eyepiece.
The 60AZ, 70AZ & 76AZ includes 1.25” accessories – 20mm eyepiece (erect image for 76AZ), 4mm eyepiece, 3x Barlow
lens, erect image diagonal for 60AZ.
S
Se et tt ti in ng g u up p t th he e T Tr ri ip po od d
1. Remove the tripod from the box (Figure 2-1). The tripod comes preassembled so that the set up is very easy. Each
tripod is different for each model but looks somewhat similar to the photos shown below.
2. Stand the tripod upright and pull the tripod legs apart until each leg is fully extended and then push down slightly on
the tripod leg brace (Figure 2-2). The very top of the tripod is called the tripod head (AZ mount).
3. Next, we will install the tripod accessory tray (Figure 2-3) onto the tripod leg brace (center of Figure 2-2).
4. On the bottom of the tripod tray is a screw attached to the center (except the 40AZ & 50AZ). The screw attaches into a
threaded hole in the center of the tripod leg brace by turning it clockwise - note: pull up slightly on the tripod leg brace
to make it easy to attach. Continue turning the tray until hand tight – don’t over tighten the tray. The 50AZ is slightly
different as you unthread a small knob in the center of the tray (see Figure 2-3a) and then put the tray over the threaded
hole and tighten the knob to secure the tray.
Figure 2-1 Figure 2-2 Figure 2-3 Figure 2-3a
5. The tripod is now completely assembled (Figure 2-4).
6. You can extend the tripod legs to the height you desire. At the lowest level the height is about 27” (69cm) and extends
to about 47” (119cm). You unlock the tripod leg lock knobs at the bottom of each leg (Figure 2-5) by turning them
counterclockwise and pull the legs out to the height you want & then lock the knobs securely. A fully extended tripod
looks similar to the image in Figure 2-6.
7. The tripod will be the most rigid and stable at the lower heights.
Figure 2-4 Figure 2-5 Figure 2- 6

7
A
At tt ta ac ch hi in ng g t th he e T Te el le es sc co op pe e T Tu ub be e t to o t th he e M Mo ou un nt t
The telescope optical tube attaches to the altazimuth mount with the altitude slow motion rod assembly and the respective
knobs for the 60AZ, 70AZ and 76AZ. The 40AZ & 50AZ attaches directly to the altazimuth mount head.
Before starting, remove the objective lens cap (refractor) or the front opening cap (Newtonian). To mount the telescope
tube to the mount for the 60AZ, 70AZ,and 76AZ:
1Remove the protective paper covering the optical tube.
2Put the telescope optical tube inside the yoke (altazimuth) mount so that the altitude slow motion rod assembly is on
the same side as the altitude locking screw (see Figure 1-1).
Note that on some telescopes that the rod may be attached to the telescope optical tube. If the rod is not
attached to the optical tube, remove the screw from the mechanism (with the provided tool) shown on the far
left of Figure 2-7 and put the rod in place as shown in Figure 2-7. Then, put the screw through the hole in the
rod and into the mechanism and tighten it.
3Thread the altitude locking knob out so the hole is clear in the eyebolt (see Figure 2-8).
4Put the rod of the assembly through the eyebolt and then tighten the altitude locking knob – Figure 2-9.
5Thread the two knobs (one on either side of the mount) through the top of the mount into the threaded holes in the
optical tube and tighten – Figure 2-7.
Figure 2-7 Figure 2-8 Figure 2-9
For the 40AZ & 50AZ, take the following steps:
1. Remove the protective paper covering the optical tube.
2. Place the telescope optical tube on the altazimuth mount so that the hole in the top of the optical tube platform lines
up with the holes in the mount head – see Figure 2-11.
3. Insert the altitude locking knob (see center of Figure 2-10) through the mount head and optical tube platform (make
sure the hole is clear all the way through before tightening the knob.
Figure 2-10 Figure 2-11

8
M
Mo ov vi in ng g t th he e T Te el le es sc co op pe e M Ma an nu ua al ll ly y
The PowerSeeker Alt-Az mount is easy to move wherever you want to point it. For the 60AZ, 70AZ,and 76AZ the up and
down (altitude) is controlled by the altitude locking knob (Figure 2-12). The side-to-side (azimuth) is controlled by the
azimuth lock (Figure 2-12). When both knobs are loose you can find your objects easily (through the finderscope) and then
lock the controls.
For fine adjustments in altitude, you turn the knurled ring of the altitude slow motion rod (when the altitude lock is tight) in
either direction – see Figure 2-9.
For the 40AZ & 50AZ model, loosen the altitude locking knob – Figure 2-9
and then move the telescope in the desired location you want and once there
tighten the altitude locking knob.
Note: Before tightening the altitude locking knob, the location you are
seeking should be located in the finderscope.
Figure 2-12
I
In ns st ta al ll li in ng g t th he e D Di ia ag go on na al l & & E Ey ye ep pi ie ec ce e ( (R Re ef fr ra ac ct to or r) ) – – 6 60 0A AZ Z & & 7 70 0A AZ Z
The diagonal is a prism that diverts the light at a right angle to the light path of
the refractor. This allows you to observe in a position that is more comfortable
than if you had to look straight through. This diagonal is an erect image model
that corrects the image to be right side up and oriented correctly left-to-right
which is much easier to use for terrestrial observing. Also, the diagonal can be
rotated to any position which is most favorable for you. To install the diagonal
and eyepiece:
1. Insert the small barrel of the diagonal into the 1.25” eyepiece adapter of
the focus tube on the refractor – Figure 2-13. Make sure the two
thumbscrews on the eyepiece adapter do not protrude into the focuser
tube before installation and the plug up cap is removed from the
eyepiece adapter.
2. Put the chrome barrel end of one of the eyepieces into the diagonal and
tighten the thumb screw. Again, when doing this make sure the
thumbscrew is not protruding into the diagonal before inserting the eyepiece.
3. The eyepieces can be changed to other focal lengths by reversing the procedure in step 2 above.
I
In ns st ta al ll li in ng g t th he e D Di ia ag go on na al l & & E Ey ye ep pi ie ec ce e ( (R Re ef fr ra ac ct to or r) ) – – 4 40 0A AZ Z & & 5 50 0A AZ Z
The diagonal for the 50AZ is called a star diagonal where the prism corrects the image to
be right side up (erect image) but the image is reversed left-to-right. The diagonal and
eyepieces are .96” diameter sizes. All steps above are the same with the 50AZ.
Figure 2-14
Figure 2-13

9
Barlow Lens
I
In ns st ta al ll li in ng g t th he e E Ey ye ep pi ie ec ce e o on n t th he e N Ne ew wt to on ni ia an n
The eyepiece (or ocular) is an optical element that magnifies the image focused
by the telescope. Without the eyepiece it would be impossible to use the
telescope visually. Eyepieces are commonly referred to by focal length and
barrel diameter. The longer focal length (i.e., the larger the number) the lower
the eyepiece magnification (i.e., power). Generally, you will use low-to-
moderate power when viewing. For more information on how to determine
power, see the section on “Calculating Magnification”. The eyepiece fits
directly into the focuser of the Newtonian. To attach the eyepieces:
1. Make sure the thumbscrews are not protruding into the focuser tube.
Then, insert the chrome barrel of the eyepiece into the focus tube (remove
the plug up cap of the focuser first) and tighten the thumbscrews – see
Figure 2-15.
2. The 20mm eyepiece is called an erecting eyepiece since it corrects the
image so it is right side up and corrected left to right. This makes the
telescope useful for terrestrial viewing.
3. The eyepieces can be changed by reversing the procedure as described
above.
I
In ns st ta al ll li in ng g & & U Us si in ng g t th he e B Ba ar rl lo ow w L Le en ns s
Your telescope also comes with a 3x Barlow Lens (2x
with the 40AZ) which triples the magnifying power of
each eyepiece (doubled for 2x 40AZ). However, the
greatly magnified images should only be used under ideal
conditions – see the Calculating Magnification section of
this manual.
Figure 2-16
To use the Barlow lens with refractors, remove the diagonal and insert the Barlow directly into the focuser tube. You then
insert an eyepiece into the Barlow lens for viewing. You can also, insert the diagonal into the Barlow lens and then use an
eyepiece in the diagonal but you may not be able to reach focus with all eyepieces.
For Newtonian telescopes, insert the Barlowlens directly into the focuser. Then, insert an eyepiece into the Barlow lens.
Note: Start by using a low power eyepiece as it will be easier to focus.
I
In ns st ta al ll li in ng g & & U Us si in ng g t th he e 1 1. .5 5x x E Er re ec ct ti in ng g E Ey ye ep pi ie ec ce e – – 4 40 0A AZ Z & & 5 50 0A AZ Z
The PowerSeeker 50AZ comes with a 1.5x erecting eyepieces, primarily for daytime terrestrial viewing. This eyepiece
corrects the image you see in your telescope, so that it’s both right side up and corrected from left to right.
Install and use this eyepiece the same way you do with the Barlow Lens in the section above. You cannot use the Barlow
lens when using this eyepiece.
When using the erecting eyepiece, the power with various eyepieces is:
50AZ 40AZ
w/20mm = 45x w/20mm = 38x
w/12mm = 75x w/8mm = 94x
w/4mm = 225x
Figure 2-15

10
I
In ns st ta al ll li in ng g t th he e F Fi in nd de er rs sc co op pe e ( (e ex xc ce ep pt t 4 40 0A AZ Z) )
To install the finderscope:
1. Locate the finderscope (it will be mounted inside the finderscope bracket) – see
Figures 1-1 and 1-2.
2. Remove the knurled nuts on the threaded posts on the optical tube – see Figure 2-
17.
3. Mount the finderscope bracket by placing it over the posts protruding from the
optical tube and then holding it in place thread on the knurled nuts and tightening
them down.
4. Note that the finderscope should be oriented so that the larger diameter lens is
facing toward the front of the optical tube.
5. Remove the lens caps from both ends of the finderscope.
A
Al li ig gn ni in ng g t th he e F Fi in nd de er rs sc co op pe e
Use the following steps to align the finderscope:
1. Locate a distant daytime object and center it in a low power (20mm) eyepiece in the main telescope.
2. Look through the finderscope (the eyepiece end of the finderscope) and take notice of the position of the same
object.
3. Without moving the main telescope, turn the adjustment thumb screws located around the finderscope bracket until
the crosshairs of the finderscope are centered on the object chosen with the main telescope.
Figure 2-18 Finderscope with Bracket
Ob
j
ective Lens
Finderscope Bracket
Eyepiece
Adjustment Screws
Figure 2-17

11
A telescope is an instrument that collects and focuses light. The nature of the optical design determines how the light is focused. Some
telescopes, known as refractors, use lenses, .and other telescopes, known as reflectors (Newtonians), use mirrors.
Developed in the early 1600s, the refractor is the oldest telescope design. It derives its name from the method it uses to focus incoming light
rays. The refractor uses a lens to bend or refract incoming light rays, hence the name (see Figure 3-1). Early designs used single element
lenses. However, the single lens acts like a prism and breaks light down into the colors of the rainbow, a phenomenon known as chromatic
aberration. To get around this problem, a two-element lens, known as an achromat, was introduced. Each element has a different index of
refraction allowing two different wavelengths of light to be focused at the same point. Most two-element lenses, usually made of crown and
flint glasses, are corrected for red and green light. Blue light may still be focused at a slightly different point.
A Newtonian reflector uses a single concave mirror as its primary. Light enters the tube traveling to the mirror at the back end. There light is
bent forward in the tube to a single point, its focal point. Since putting your head in front of the telescope to look at the image with an
eyepiece would keep the reflector from working, a flat mirror called a diagonal intercepts the light and points it out the side of the tube at right
angles to the tube. The eyepiece is placed there for easy viewing.
Newtonian Reflector telescopes replace heavy
lenses with mirrors to collect and focus the
light, providing much more light-gathering
power for the money spent. Because the light
path is intercepted and reflected out to the
side, you can have focal lengths up to
1000mm and still enjoy a telescope that is
relatively compact and portable. A
Newtonian Reflector telescope offers such
impressive light-gathering characteristics you
can take a serious interest in deep space
astronomy even on a modest budget.
Newtonian Reflector telescopes do require
more care and maintenance because the
primary mirror is exposed to air and dust.
However, this small drawback does not
hamper this type of telescope’s popularity
with those who want an economical telescope
that can still resolve faint, distant objects.
Figure 3-1
A cutaway view of the light path of the Refractor optical design
Figure 3-2
Cutaway view of the light path of the Newtonian optical design

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Image orientation as seen with the
unaided eye & using erecting devices
on refractors & Newtonians
Inverted image, normal with
Newtonians & as viewed with
eyepiece directly in a refractor
Reversed from left to right, as viewed
using a Star Diagonal on a refractor
I
Im ma ag ge e O Or ri ie en nt ta at ti io on n
The image orientation changes depending on how the eyepiece is inserted into the telescope. When using a star diagonal
with refractors, the image is right-side-up, but reversed from left-to-right (i.e., mirror image). If inserting the eyepiece
directly into the focuser of a refractor (i.e., without the diagonal), the image is upside-down and reversed from left-to-right
(i.e., inverted). However, when using the PowerSeeker refractor and the standard erect image diagonal, the image is
correctly oriented in every aspect.
Newtonian reflectors produce a right-side-up image but the image will appear rotated based on the location of the eyepiece
holder in relation to the ground. However, by using the erect image eyepiece supplied with the PowerSeeker Newtonian,
the image is correctly oriented.
Figure 3-3
F
Fo oc cu us si in ng g
To focus your refractor or Newtonian telescope, simply turn the focus knob located directly below the eyepiece holder (see
Figures 2-13, 2-14 and 2-15). Turning the knob clockwise allows you to focus on an object that is farther than the one you
are currently observing. Turning the knob counterclockwise from you allows you to focus on an object closer than the one
you are currently observing.
Note: If you wear corrective lenses (specifically glasses), you may want to remove them when observing with an
eyepiece attached to the telescope. However, when using a camera you should always wear corrective lenses to
ensure the sharpest possible focus. If you have astigmatism, corrective lenses must be worn at all times.
C
Ca al lc cu ul la at ti in ng g M Ma ag gn ni if fi ic ca at ti io on n
You can change the power of your telescope just by changing the eyepiece (ocular). To determine the magnification of
your telescope, simply divide the focal length of the telescope by the focal length of the eyepiece used. In equation format,
the formula looks like this:
Focal Length of Telescope (mm)
Magnification = 
Focal Length of Eyepiece (mm)
Let’s say, for example, you are using the 20mm eyepiece that came with your telescope. To determine the magnification
you divide the focal length of your telescope (the PowerSeeker 60AZ for this example has a focal length of 700mm) by the
focal length of the eyepiece, 20mm. Dividing 700 by 20 yields a magnification of 35x.
Although the power is variable, each instrument under average skies has a limit to the highest useful magnification. The
general rule is that 60 power can be used for every inch of aperture. For example, the PowerSeeker 60AZ is 2.4” inches in
diameter. Multiplying 2.4 by 60 gives a maximum useful magnification of 144 power. Although this is the maximum
useful magnification, most observing is done in the range of 20 to 35 power for every inch of aperture which is 48 to 84
times for the PowerSeeker 60AZ telescope. You can determine the magnification for your telescope the same way.
Note on Using High Powers – Higher powers are used mainly for lunar and sometimes planetary observing where you can
greatly enlarge the image, but remember that the contrast and brightness will be very low due to the high magnification.
Using the 4mm eyepiece together with the 3x Barlow lens gives extremely high power and can be used on rare occasions –
you will achieve the power but the image will be dark with low contrast because you have magnified it to the maximum
possible. For the brightest images with the highest contrast levels, use lower powers.

13
D
De et te er rm mi in ni in ng g F Fi ie el ld d o of f V Vi ie ew w
Determining the field of view is important if you want to get an idea of the angular size of the object you are observing. To
calculate the actual field of view, divide the apparent field of the eyepiece (supplied by the eyepiece manufacturer) by the
magnification. In equation format, the formula looks like this:
Apparent Field of Eyepiece
True Angular Field = 
Magnification
As you can see, before determining the field of view, you must calculate the magnification. Using the example in the
previous section, we can determine the field of view using the same 20mm eyepiece that is supplied standard with the
PowerSeeker 60AZ telescope. The 20mm eyepiece has an apparent field of view of 50°. Divide the 50° by the
magnification, which is 35 power. This yields an actual (true) field of 1.4°.
To convert degrees to feet at 1,000 yards, which is more useful for terrestrial observing, simply multiply by 52.5.
Continuing with our example, multiply the angular field of 1.4° by 52.5. This produces a linear field width of 74 feet at a
distance of one thousand yards.
G
Ge en ne er ra al l O Ob bs se er rv vi in ng g H Hi in nt ts s
When using any optical instrument, there are a few things to remember to ensure you get the best possible image.
yNever look through window glass. Glass found in household windows is optically imperfect, and as a result, may vary
in thickness from one part of a window to the next. This inconsistency can and will affect the ability to focus your
telescope. In most cases you will not be able to achieve a truly sharp image, while in some cases, you may actually see
a double image.
yNever look across or over objects that are producing heat waves. This includes asphalt parking lots on hot summer
days or building rooftops.
yHazy skies, fog, and mist can also make it difficult to focus when viewing terrestrially. The amount of detail seen
under these conditions is greatly reduced.
yIf you wear corrective lenses (specifically glasses), you may want to remove them when observing with an eyepiece
attached to the telescope. When using a camera, however, you should always wear corrective lenses to ensure the
sharpest possible focus. If you have astigmatism, corrective lenses must be worn at all times.

14
Up to this point, this manual covered the assembly and basic operation of your telescope. However, to understand your
telescope more thoroughly, you need to know a little about the night sky. This section deals with observational astronomy
in general and includes information on the night sky and polar alignment.
T
Th he e C Ce el le es st ti ia al l C Co oo or rd di in na at te e S Sy ys st te em m
To help find objects in the sky, astronomers use a celestial coordinate system that is similar to our geographical co-ordinate
system here on Earth. The celestial coordinate system has poles, lines of longitude and latitude, and an equator. For the
most part, these remain fixed against the background stars.
The celestial equator runs 360 degrees around the Earth and separates the northern celestial hemisphere from the southern.
Like the Earth's equator, it bears a reading of zero degrees. On Earth this would be latitude. However, in the sky this is
referred to as declination, or DEC for short. Lines of declination are named for their angular distance above and below the
celestial equator. The lines are broken down into degrees, minutes of arc, and seconds of arc. Declination readings south
of the equator carry a minus sign (-) in front of the coordinate and those north of the celestial equator are either blank (i.e.,
no designation) or preceded by a plus sign (+).
The celestial equivalent of longitude is called Right Ascension, or R.A. for short. Like the Earth's lines of longitude, they
run from pole to pole and are evenly spaced 15 degrees apart. Although the longitude lines are separated by an angular
distance, they are also a measure of time. Each line of longitude is one hour apart from the next. Since the Earth rotates
once every 24 hours, there are 24 lines total. As a result, the R.A. coordinates are marked off in units of time. It begins
with an arbitrary point in the constellation of Pisces designated as 0 hours, 0 minutes, 0 seconds. All other points are
designated by how far (i.e., how long) they lag behind this coordinate after it passes overhead moving toward the west.
Figure 4-1
The celestial sphere seen from the outside showing R.A. and DEC.

15
M
Mo ot ti io on n o of f t th he e S St ta ar rs s
The daily motion of the Sun across the sky is familiar to even the most casual observer. This daily trek is not the Sun
moving as early astronomers thought, but the result of the Earth's rotation. The Earth's rotation also causes the stars to do
the same, scribing out a large circle as the Earth completes one rotation. The size of the circular path a star follows depends
on where it is in the sky. Stars near the celestial equator form the largest circles rising in the east and setting in the west.
Moving toward the north celestial pole, the point around which the stars in the northern hemisphere appear to rotate, these
circles become smaller. Stars in the mid-celestial latitudes rise in the northeast and set in the northwest. Stars at high
celestial latitudes are always above the horizon, and are said to be circumpolar because they never rise and never set. You
will never see the stars complete one circle because the sunlight during the day washes out the starlight. However, part of
this circular motion of stars in this region of the sky can be seen by setting up a camera on a tripod and opening the shutter
for a couple hours. The timed exposure will reveal semicircles that revolve around the pole. (This description of stellar
motions also applies to the southern hemisphere except all stars south of the celestial equator move around the south
celestial pole.)
Figure 4-2
All stars appear to rotate around the celestial poles. However, the appearance of this
motion varies depending on where you are looking in the sky. Near the north celestial pole
the stars scribe out recognizable circles centered on the pole (1). Stars near the celestial
equator also follow circular paths around the pole. But, the complete path is interrupted by
the horizon. These appear to rise in the east and set in the west (2). Looking toward the
opposite pole, stars curve or arc in the opposite direction scribing a circle around the
opposite pole (3).
Starts seen near the north celestial
pole
Starts seen near the celestial
equator
Starts seen looking in the opposite
direction of the north celestial pole

16
With your telescope set up, you are ready to use it for observing. This section covers visual observing hints for both solar
system and deep sky objects as well as general observing conditions which will affect your ability to observe.
O
Ob bs se er rv vi in ng g t th he e M Mo oo on n
Often, it is tempting to look at the Moon when it is full. At this time, the face we
see is fully illuminated and its light can be overpowering. In addition, little or
no contrast can be seen during this phase.
One of the best times to observe the Moon is during its partial phases (around
the time of first or third quarter). Long shadows reveal a great amount of detail
on the lunar surface. At low power you will be able to see most of the lunar disk
at one time. Change to optional eyepieces for higher power (magnification) to
focus in on a smaller area.
Lunar Observing Hints
To increase contrast and bring out detail on the lunar surface, use optional filters. A yellow filter works well at improving
contrast while a neutral density or polarizing filter will reduce overall surface brightness and glare.
O
Ob bs se er rv vi in ng g t th he e P Pl la an ne et ts s
Other fascinating targets include the five naked eye planets. You can see Venus go
through its lunar-like phases. Mars can reveal a host of surface detail and one, if not
both, of its polar caps. You will be able to see the cloud belts of Jupiter and the great
Red Spot (if it is visible at the time you are observing). In addition, you will also be
able to see the moons of Jupiter as they orbit the giant planet. Saturn, with its
beautiful rings, is easily visible at moderate power.
Planetary Observing Hints
yRemember that atmospheric conditions are usually the limiting factor on how much planetary detail will be visible.
So, avoid observing the planets when they are low on the horizon or when they are directly over a source of
radiating heat, such as a rooftop or chimney. See the "Seeing Conditions" section later in this section.
yTo increase contrast and bring out detail on the planetary surface, try using Celestron eyepiece filters.
O
Ob bs se er rv vi in ng g t th he e S Su un n
Although overlooked by many amateur astronomers, solar observation is both rewarding and fun. However, because the
Sun is so bright, special precautions must be taken when observing our star so as not to damage your eyes or your
telescope.
For safe solar viewing, use a proper solar filter that reduces the intensity of the Sun's light, making it safe to view. With a
filter you can see sunspots as they move across the solar disk and faculae, which are bright patches seen near the Sun's
edge.
yThe best time to observe the Sun is in the early morning or late afternoon when the air is cooler.
yTo center the Sun without looking into the eyepiece, watch the shadow of the telescope tube until it forms a
circular shadow.

17
O
Ob bs se er rv vi in ng g D De ee ep p- -S Sk ky y O Ob bj je ec ct ts s
Deep-sky objects are simply those objects outside the boundaries of our solar system. They include star clusters, planetary
nebulae, diffuse nebulae, double stars and other galaxies outside our own Milky Way. Most deep-sky objects have a large
angular size. Therefore, low-to-moderate power is all you need to see them. Visually, they are too faint to reveal any of the
color seen in long exposure photographs. Instead, they appear black and white. And, because of their low surface
brightness, they should be observed from a dark-sky location. Light pollution around large urban areas washes out most
nebulae making them difficult, if not impossible, to observe. Light Pollution Reduction filters help reduce the background
sky brightness, thus increasing contrast.
Star Hopping
One convenient way to find deep-sky objects is by star hopping. Star hopping is done by using bright stars to "guide" you
to an object. For successful star hopping, it is helpful to know the field of view of you telescope. If you’re using the
standard 20 mm eyepiece with the PowerSeeker telescope, your field of view is approximately 1.4º or so. If you know an
object is 3º away from your present location, then you just need to move about two fields of view. If you’re using another
eyepiece, then consult the section on determining field of view. Listed below are directions for locating two popular
objects.
The Andromeda Galaxy (Figure 5-1), also known as M31, is an easy target. To find M31:
1. Locate the constellation of Pegasus, a large square visible in the fall (in the eastern sky, moving toward the point
overhead) and winter months (overhead, moving toward the west).
2. Start at the star in the northeast corner—Alpha (D) Andromedae.
3. Move northeast approximately 7°. There you will find two stars of equal brightness—Delta (G) and Pi (S)
Andromeda—about 3° apart.
4. Continue in the same direction another 8°. There you will find two stars—Beta (E) and Mu (P) Andromedae—also
about 3° apart.
5. Move 3° northwest—the same distance between the two stars—to the Andromeda galaxy.
Figure 5-1

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Star hopping to the Andromeda Galaxy (M31) is a snap, since all the stars needed to do so are visible to the naked eye.
Star hopping will take some getting used to and objects that don’t have stars near them that are visible to the naked eye are
challenging. One such object is M57 (Figure 5-2), the famed Ring Nebula. Here's how to find it:
1. Find the constellation of Lyra, a small parallelogram visible in the summer and fall months. Lyra is easy to pick out
because it contains the bright star Vega.
2. Start at the star Vega—Alpha (D) Lyrae—and move a few degrees southeast to find the parallelogram. The four stars
that make up this geometric shape are all similar in brightness, making them easy to see.
3. Locate the two southernmost stars that make up the parallelogram—Beta (E) and Gamma (J) Lyra.
4. Point about halfway between these two stars.
5. Move about ½° toward Beta (E) Lyra, while remaining on a line connecting the two stars.
6. Look through the telescope and the Ring Nebula should be in your field of view. The Ring Nebula’s angular size is
quite small and difficult to see.
7. Because the Ring Nebula is rather faint, you may need to use “averted vision” to see it. “Averted vision” is a technique
of looking slightly away from the object you’re observing. So, if you are observing the Ring Nebula, center it in your
field of view and then look off toward the side. This causes light from the object viewed to fall on the black and white
sensitive rods of your eyes, rather than your eyes color sensitive cones. (Remember that when observing faint objects,
it’s important to try to observe from a dark location, away from street and city lights. The average eye takes about 20
minutes to fully adapt to the darkness. So always use a red-filtered flashlight to preserve your dark-adapted night
vision).
These two examples should give you an idea of how to star hop to deep-sky objects. To use this method on other
objects, consult a star atlas, then star hop to the object of your choice using “naked eye” stars.
Figure 5-2

19
S
Se ee ei in ng g C Co on nd di it ti io on ns s
Viewing conditions affect what you can see through your telescope during an observing session. Conditions include
transparency, sky illumination, and seeing. Understanding viewing conditions and the effect they have on observing will
help you get the most out of your telescope.
Transparency
Transparency is the clarity of the atmosphere which is affected by clouds, moisture, and other airborne particles. Thick
cumulus clouds are completely opaque while cirrus can be thin, allowing the light from the brightest stars through. Hazy
skies absorb more light than clear skies making fainter objects harder to see and reducing contrast on brighter objects.
Aerosols ejected into the upper atmosphere from volcanic eruptions also affect transparency. Ideal conditions are when the
night sky is inky black.
Sky Illumination
General sky brightening caused by the Moon, aurorae, natural airglow, and light pollution greatly affect transparency.
While not a problem for the brighter stars and planets, bright skies reduce the contrast of extended nebulae making them
difficult, if not impossible to see. To maximize your observing, limit deep sky viewing to moonless nights far from the
light polluted skies found around major urban areas. LPR filters enhance deep sky viewing from light polluted areas by
blocking unwanted light while transmitting light from certain deep sky objects. You can, on the other hand, observe planets
and stars from light polluted areas or when the Moon is out.
Seeing
Seeing conditions refers to the stability of the atmosphere and directly affects the amount of fine detail seen in extended
objects. The air in our atmosphere acts as a lens which bends and distorts incoming light rays. The amount of bending
depends on air density. Varying temperature layers have different densities and, therefore, bend light differently. Light
rays from the same object arrive slightly displaced creating an imperfect or smeared image. These atmospheric
disturbances vary from time-to-time and place-to-place. The size of the air parcels compared to your aperture determines
the "seeing" quality. Under good seeing conditions, fine detail is visible on the brighter planets like Jupiter and Mars, and
stars are pinpoint images. Under poor seeing conditions, images are blurred and stars appear as blobs.
The conditions described here apply to both visual and photographic observations.
Figure 5-3
Seeing conditions directly affect image quality. These drawings represent a point source (i.e.,
star) under bad seeing conditions (left) to excellent conditions (right). Most often, seeing
conditions produce images that lie somewhere between these two extremes.

20
The PowerSeeker series of telescopes was designed for visual observing. After looking at the night sky for a while you
may want to try your hand at photography of it. There are a few simple forms of photography possible with your 60AZ,
70AZ and 76AZ telescope for celestial as well as terrestrial pursuits although celestial photography is best done using an
equatorial mount or computerized altazimuth mount. Below is just a very brief discussion of some of the methods of
photography available and suggest you search out various books for detailed information on the subject matter.
As a minimum you will need a digital camera or a 35mm SLR camera. Attach your camera to the telescope with:
yDigital camera – you will need the Universal Digital Camera Adapter (# 93626). The adapter allows the camera to
be mounted rigidly for terrestrial as well as prime focus astrophotography.
y35mm SLR camera – you will need to remove your lens from the camera and attach a T-Ring for your specific
camera brand. Then, you will need a T-Adapter (# 93625) to attach on one end to the T-Ring and the other end to
the telescope focus tube. Your telescope is now the camera lens.
S
Sh ho or rt t E Ex xp po os su ur re e P Pr ri im me e F Fo oc cu us s P Ph ho ot to og gr ra ap ph hy y
Short exposure prime focus photography is the best way to begin imaging celestial objects. It is done by attaching your
camera to the telescope as described in the paragraph above. A couple of points to keep in mind:
yYou can image the Moon as well as the brighter planets with very short exposures. You will have to experiment
with various settings and exposure times. Much information can be obtained from your camera instruction manual
which can supplement what you can find in detailed books on the subject matter.
yDo your photography from a dark sky observing site if possible.
yRemember, this is just very simple photography. For more detailed and serious astrophotography you need an
equatorial mount or a computerized altazimuth mount.
P
Pl la an ne et ta ar ry y & & L Lu un na ar r P Ph ho ot to og gr ra ap ph hy y w wi it th h S Sp pe ec ci ia al l I Im ma ag ge er rs s
During the last few years a new technology has evolved which makes taking superb images of the planets and moon
relatively easy and the results are truly amazing. Celestron offers the NexImage (# 93712) which is a special camera and
included is software for image processing. You can capture planetary images your first night out which rivals what
professionals were doing with large telescopes just a few short years ago.
C
CC CD D I Im ma ag gi in ng g f fo or r D De ee ep p- -S Sk ky y O Ob bj je ec ct ts s
Special cameras have been developed for taking images of deep sky images. These have evolved over the last several years
to become much more economical and amateurs can take fantastic images. Several books have been written on how to get
the best images possible. The technology continues to evolve with better and easier to use products on the market.
T
Te er rr re es st tr ri ia al l P Ph ho ot to og gr ra ap ph hy y
Your telescope makes an excellent telephoto lens for terrestrial (land) photography. You can take images of various scenic
views, wildlife, nature, and just about anything. You will have to experiment with focusing, speeds, etc. to get the best
image desired. You can adapt your camera per the instructions at the top of this page.