Century Heating FW3500 User manual

Printed in Canada
CONTACT LOCAL BUILDING OR FIRE OFFICIALS ABOUT RESTRICTIONS AND INSTALLATION INSPECTION REQUIREMENTS IN
LOCAL AREA.
READ THIS ENTIRE MANUAL BEFORE INSTALLATION AND USE OF THIS WOOD STOVE. FAILURE TO FOLLOW THESE
INSTRUCTIONS COULD RESULT IN PROPERTY DAMAGE, BODILY INJURY OR EVEN DEATH.
READ AND KEEP THIS MANUAL FOR REFERENCE
46204A
2020-09-09
Installation and Operation Manual
FW3500
(CB00024 model)
MOBILE
HOME
Safety tested according to ULC S627,
UL 1482 and UL 737 standards by an
accredited laboratory.
ENGLISH
US Environmental Protection Agency
phase II certified wood stove compliant
with 2020 cord wood standard

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As one of North America’s
largest and most respected
wood stove and fireplace
manufacturers, Stove Builder
International takes pride in the
quality and performance of all
its products.
The following pages provide
general advice on wood
heating, detailed instructions
for safe and effective
installation, and guidance
on how to get the best
performance from this stove.
It is highly recommended
that this wood burning hearth
product be installed and
serviced by professionals who
are certified by a «Qualified
Agency» such as NFI (National
Fireplace Institute®) or CSIA
(Chimney Safety Institute of
America) in the United States
and in Canada by WETT
(Wood Energy Technology
Transfer) or in Quebec
by APC (Association des
Professionnels du Chauffage).
Contact local building or fire
officials about restrictions
and installation inspection
requirements in your local
area.
A building permit might be
required for the installation of
this stove and the chimney
that it is connected to. It is
also highly recommended to
inform your home insurance
company.
Please read this entire manual
before installing and using this
stove.
A primary alternative heat
source should be available in
the home. This heating unit
may serve as a supplementary
heat source. The manufacturer
cannot be responsible for
additional heating costs
associated with the use of an
alternative heat source.
THANK YOU FOR CHOOSING
THIS WOOD STOVE.
If this stove is not
installed properly,
combustible materials
near it may overheat
and catch fire.
To reduce the
risk of fire, follow
the installation
instructions in this
manual.
ONLINE WARRANTY REGISTRATION
If the unit requires repairs during the warranty period, proof of purchase must be provided. The
purchase invoice must be kept. The date indicated on it establishes the warranty period. If it
cannot be provided, the warranty period will be determined by the date of manufacture of the
product. It is also highly recommended to register the warranty online at
https://www.century-heating.com/en/warranty/warranty-registration/
Registering the warranty will help to quickly nd the information needed on the unit.

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TABLE OF CONTENTS
PART A - OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE .............................................................................. 7
1. Safety Information................................................................................................................... 7
2. General Information ................................................................................................................ 8
2.1 Performances..................................................................................................................... 8
2.2 Specifications..................................................................................................................... 9
2.3 Dimensions .......................................................................................................................10
2.4 Materials...........................................................................................................................11
2.5 Zone Heating ....................................................................................................................11
2.6 Emissions and Efficiency....................................................................................................12
3. Fuel ........................................................................................................................................ 12
3.1 Tree Species .....................................................................................................................12
3.2 Log Length .......................................................................................................................13
3.3 Piece Size.........................................................................................................................13
3.4 Compressed Wood Logs....................................................................................................13
3.5 Drying Time.......................................................................................................................13
4. Operating the Stove.............................................................................................................. 14
4.1 The Use of a Fire Screen....................................................................................................15
4.2 Blower Operation ..............................................................................................................15
5. Burning Wood Efciently ..................................................................................................... 16
5.1 First Use ...........................................................................................................................16
5.2 Lighting Fires ....................................................................................................................16
5.3 Combustion Cycles............................................................................................................17
5.4 Rekindling a Fire................................................................................................................18
5.5 Removing Ashes................................................................................................................18
5.6 Air Intake Control...............................................................................................................19
5.7 Fire Types .........................................................................................................................19
6. Maintenance.......................................................................................................................... 21
6.1 Cleaning and Painting ........................................................................................................21
6.2 Refractory Materials and Baffle...........................................................................................21
6.3 Glass Door........................................................................................................................21
6.4 Door.................................................................................................................................22
6.5 Exhaust System ................................................................................................................23
PART B - INSTALLATION............................................................................................................ 25
7. Safety Information and Standards ....................................................................................... 25
7.1 Mobile Home.....................................................................................................................25
7.2 Regulations Covering Stove Installation...............................................................................25
7.3 Location of the Certification Label ......................................................................................25

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Dealer:
Installer:
Phone Number:
Serial Number:
8. Clearances to Combustible Material.................................................................................... 26
8.1 Clearances........................................................................................................................27
8.2 Floor Protection.................................................................................................................29
8.3 Reducing Clearances Safely...............................................................................................30
9. The Venting System .............................................................................................................. 33
9.1 Suitable Chimneys.............................................................................................................33
9.2 Minimum Chimney Height...................................................................................................35
9.3 Chimney Location..............................................................................................................35
9.4 Supply of Combustion Air ..................................................................................................36
9.5 Chimney Connector...........................................................................................................37
Appendix 1: Optional Fresh Air Intake Kit Installation............................................................. 39
Appendix 2: Optional Fire Screen Installation.......................................................................... 40
Appendix 3: Optional Blower Installation................................................................................. 41
Appendix 4: Optional Thermodisc Installation......................................................................... 42
Appendix 5: Air Tubes and Bafe Installation .......................................................................... 43
Appendix 6: Mobile Home Installation ..................................................................................... 45
Appendix 7: Optional ash pan installation ............................................................................... 46
Appendix 8: Exploded Diagram and Parts List........................................................................ 47
CENTURY HEATING LIMITED WARRANTY............................................................................... 50

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CERTIFICATION PLATE

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PART A - OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE
1. Safety Information
• This stove has been tested for use with an open door in conjunction with a fire screen, sold
separately. The door may be opened, or fire screen removed only during lighting procedures or
reloading. Always close the door or put back on the fire screen after ignition. Do not leave the stove
unattended when the door is opened with or without the fire screen.
• WARNING : OPERATE ONLY WITH THE DOOR FULLY CLOSED OR FULLY OPEN WITH THE
FIRE SCREEN IN PLACE. IF THE DOOR IS LEFT PARTLY OPEN, GAS AND FLAME MAY BE
DRAWN OUT OF THE OPENING, CREATING RISKS FROM BOTH FIRE AND SMOKE.
• HOT WHILE IN OPERATION, KEEP CHILDREN, CLOTHING AND FURNITURE AWAY. CONTACT
MAY CAUSE SKIN BURNS. GLOVES MAY BE NEEDED FOR THE STOVE OPERATION.
• Using a stove with cracked or broken components, such as glass, firebricks or baffle may produce
an unsafe condition and may damage the stove.
• Open the air control fully before opening the loading door.
• NEVER USE GASOLINE, LANTERN FUEL (NAPHTHA), FUEL OIL, MOTOR OIL, KEROSENE,
CHARCOAL LIGHTER FLUID, OR SIMILAR LIQUIDS OR AEROSOLS TO START A FIRE IN
THIS STOVE. KEEP ALL SUCH LIQUIDS OR AEROSOLS WELL AWAY FROM THE STOVE
WHILE IT IS IN USE.
• Do not store fuel within heater minimum installation clearances.
• Burn only seasoned natural firewood.
• This appliance should always be maintained and operated in accordance with these instructions.
• Do not elevate the fire by using a grate.
• Do not use makeshift materials or make any compromises when installing this appliance.
• This wood heater needs periodic inspection and repairs for the proper operation. It is against
federal regulations to operate this wood heater in a manner inconsistent with operating instructions
in this manual.
• A smoke detector, a carbon monoxide detector and a fire extinguisher should be installed in the
house. The location of the fire extinguisher should be known by all family members.
This product can expose you to chemicals including carbon monoxide, which is
known to the State of California to cause cancer, birth defects or other reproductive
harm. For more information go to www.P65warnings.ca.gov/

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2. General Information
2.1 Performances
Values are as measured per test method, except for the recommended heating area, firebox volume,
maximum burn time and maximum heat output.
Model FW3500 (CB00024)
Fuel Type Dry Cordwood
Combustion Technology Non Catalytic
Recommended heating area (sq. ft..)1 1,000 to 2,700 ft2(93 to 251 m2)
Nominal firebox volume 3.5 ft3(0.099 m3)
EPA loading volume 2.84 ft3(0.080 m3)
Maximum burn time110 hours
Maximum heat output (dry cordwood)2 110,000 BTU/h (32.2 kW)
Overall heat output rate (min. to max.)2 3 18,200 BTU/h to 49,500 BTU/h
(5.3 kW to 14.5 kW)
Average overall efficiency3
Dry cordwood 71 % (HHV)4 76 % (LHV)5
Optimum efficiency6 77 %
Average particulate emissions rate7 1.32 g/h (EPA / CSA B415.1-10)8
Average CO9 92 g/h
1Recommended heating area and maximum burn time may vary subject to location in home, chimney draft,heat loss factors, climate, fuel type
and other variables. The recommended heated area for a given appliance is defined by the manufacturer as its capacity to maintain a minimum
acceptable temperature in the designated area in case of a power failure.
2The maximum heat output (dry cordwood) is based on a loading density varying between 15 lb/ft3and 20 lb/ft3. Other performances are based on
a fuel load prescribed by the standard. The specified loading density varies between 7 lb/ft³ and 12 lb/ft3. The moisture content is between 19%
and 25%.
3As measured per CSA B415.1-10 stack loss method.
4Higher Heating Value of the fuel.
5Lower Heating Value of the fuel.
6Optimum overall efficiency at a specific burn rate (LHV).
7This appliance is officially tested and certified by an independent agency.
8Tested and certified in compliance with CFR 40 part 60, subpart AAA, section 60.534(a)(1(ii) and ASTM E3053-17
9Carbon monoxide.

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2.2 Specifications
Maximum log length10 22 in (560 mm) east-west / north-south
Flue outlet diameter 6 in (150 mm)
Recommended connector pipe diameter 6 in (150 mm)
Type of chimney ULC S629, UL 103 HT (2100 °F)
Baffle material Vermiculite
Approved for alcove installation Yes
Approved for mobile home installation11 Yes
Type of door Simple, glass with cast iron frame
Type of glass Ceramic glass
Blower Included (up to 100 CFM)
Particulate emission standard12 EPA / CSA B415.1-10
USA standard (Safety) UL 1482, UL 737
Canada standard (Safety) ULC S627
10 North-south: ends of the logs visible, East-west: sides of the logs visible.
11 Mobile homes (Canada) or manufactured homes (USA): The US Department of Housing and Urban Development describes “manufactured homes”
better known as “mobile homes” as follows; buildings built on fixed wheels and those transported on temporary wheels/axles and set on a permanent
foundation. In Canada, a mobile home is a dwelling for which the manufacture and assembly of each component is completed or substantially
completed prior to being moved to a site for installation on a foundation and connection to service facilities and which conforms to the CAN/CSA-
Z240 MH standard.
12 Tested and certified in compliance with CFR 40 part 60, subpart AAA, section 60.534(a)(1(ii) and ASTM E3053-17.

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2.3 Dimensions
28 1/8"
714mm
9"
230mm
O6"
153mm
14 1/8"
357mm
16 5/8"
422mm
11 3/4"
299mm
25 3/4"
654mm
24"
610mm
24 1/4"
615mm
14 3/8"
366mm
31 1/4"
794mm
35 3/8"
897mm 35 3/4"
908mm
13 1/8"
334mm
26 7/8"
684mm
25"
636mm
9"
230mm
Figure 1: Top view Figure 2: Front view
SECTION A-A
12 7/8"
326mm
20 1/8"
510mm
5/16"
8mm
3/16"
5mm
17 7/8"
454mm
Figure 3: Side view Figure 4: Combustion chamber - side view
22 7/8"
581mm
9 7/8"
249mm
19"
483mm
Figure 5: Combustion chamber - front view Figure 6: Door opening
28 1/8"
714mm
9"
230mm
O
6"
153mm
14 1/8"
357mm
16 5/8"
422mm
11 3/4"
299mm
25 3/4"
654mm
24"
610mm
24 1/4"
615mm
14 3/8"
366mm
31 1/4"
794mm
35 3/8"
897mm 35 3/4"
908mm
13 1/8"
334mm
26 7/8"
684mm
25"
636mm
9"
230mm
28 1/8"
714mm
9"
230mm
O
6"
153mm
14 1/8"
357mm
16 5/8"
422mm
11 3/4"
299mm
25 3/4"
654mm
24"
610mm
24 1/4"
615mm
14 3/8"
366mm
31 1/4"
794mm
35 3/8"
897mm 35 3/4"
908mm
13 1/8"
334mm
26 7/8"
684mm
25"
636mm
9"
230mm

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2.4 Materials
The body of this stove, which is most of its weight, is carbon steel. Should it ever become
necessary many years in the future, almost the entire stove can be recycled into new products,
thus eliminating the need to mine new materials.
The paint coating on the stove is very thin. Its VOC content (Volatile Organic Compounds) is
very low. VOCs can be responsible for smog, so all the paint used during the manufacturing
process meets the latest air quality requirements regarding VOC reduction or elimination.
The air tubes are stainless steel, which can also be recycled.
The baffle is made of vermiculite compressed with a binder to form a rigid board. Vermiculite
can withstand temperatures above 2,000°F. It is not considered hazardous waste. Disposal at a
waste management center is recommended.
The firebrick is made of pumice, a volcanic rock, and cement. Disposal at a waste management
center is recommended.
The door and glass gaskets are fibreglass which is spun from melted sand. Black gaskets
have been dipped into a solvent-free solution. Disposal at a waste management center is
recommended.
The door glass is a 5/32" (4 mm) thick ceramic material that contains no toxic chemicals. It is
made of natural raw materials such as sand and quartz that are combined in such a way to form
a high temperature glass. Ceramic glass cannot be recycled in the same way as normal glass, so
it should not be disposed of with regular household products. Disposal at a waste management
center is recommended.
2.5 Zone Heating
This stove is a space heater, which means it is intended to heat the area it is installed in, as well
as spaces that connect to that area, although to a lower temperature. This is called zone heating
and it is an increasingly popular way to heat homes or spaces within homes.
Zone heating can be used to supplement another heating system by heating a particular space
within a home, such as a basement, a family room or an addition that lacks another heat source.
Houses of moderate size and relatively new construction can be heated with a properly sized
and located wood stove. Whole house zone heating works best when the stove is in the part of
the house where the family spends most of its time. This is normally the main living area where
the kitchen, dining and living rooms are located.
Locating the stove in this area will give the maximum benefit of the heat it produces and will
achieve the highest possible heating efficiency and comfort. The space where the most time is
spent will be warmest, while bedrooms and basement (if there is one) will stay cooler. In this
way, less wood is burnt than with other forms of heating.
Although the stove may be able to heat the main living areas of the house to an adequate
temperature, it is strongly recommended to also have a conventional oil, gas or electric heating
system to provide backup heating.

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The success of zone heating will depend on several factors, including the correct sizing and
location of the stove, the size, layout and age of your home and your climate zone. Three-season
vacation homes can usually be heated with smaller stoves than houses that are heated all winter.
2.6 Emissions and Efficiency
The low smoke emissions produced by the special features inside this stove firebox mean that
the household will release up to 90% less smoke into the outside environment than if an older
conventional stove was used. But there is more to the emission control technologies than
protecting the environment.
The smoke released from wood when it is heated contains about half of the energy content of
the fuel. By burning the wood completely, this stove releases all the heat energy from the wood
instead of wasting it as smoke up the chimney. Also, the features inside the firebox allow control
of the air supply meaning controlling the heat output, while maintaining clean and efficient
flaming combustion, which boosts the efficient delivery of heat to the home.
The emission control and advanced combustion features of this stove can only work properly
if the fuel used is in the correct moisture content range of 15% to 20%. Refer to the following
section of suggestions on preparing fuelwood and judging its moisture.
3. Fuel
Good firewood has been cut to the correct length for the stove, split to a range of sizes and
stacked in the open until its moisture content is down to 15% to 20%.
DO NOT BURN:
• GARBAGE;
• LAWN CLIPPINGS OR YARD WASTE;
• MATERIALS CONTAINING RUBBER,
INCLUDING TIRES;
• MATERIALS CONTAINING PLASTIC;
• WASTE PETROLEUM PRODUCTS, PAINTS
OR PAINT THINNERS, OR ASPHALT
PRODUCTS;
• MATERIALS CONTAINING ASBESTOS;
• CONSTRUCTION OR DEMOLITION DEBRIS;
• RAILROAD TIES OR PRESSURE-TREATED
WOOD;
• MANURE OR ANIMAL REMAINS;
• SALT WATER DRIFTWOOD OR OTHER
PREVIOUSLY SALT WATER SATURATED
MATERIALS;
• UNSEASONED WOOD; OR
• PAPER PRODUCTS, CARDBOARD,
PLYWOOD, OR PARTICLE BOARD. THE
PROHIBITION AGAINST BURNING THESE
MATERIALS DOES NOT PROHIBIT THE USE
OF FIRE STARTERS MADE FROM PAPER,
CARDBOARD, SAW DUST, WAX AND
SIMILAR SUBSTANCES FOR THE PURPOSE
OF STARTING A FIRE IN AN AFFECTED
WOOD HEATER.
BURNING THESE MATERIALS MAY RESULT IN THE RELEASE OF TOXIC FUMES OR
RENDER THE HEATER INEFFECTIVE AND CAUSE SMOKE.
3.1 Tree Species
The tree species the firewood is produced from is less important than its moisture content. The
main difference in firewood from various tree species is the density of the wood. Hardwoods are
denser than softwoods.
Homeowners with access to both hardwood and softwood use both types for different purposes.

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Softer woods make good fuel for mild weather in spring and fall because they light quickly
and produce less heat. Softwoods are not as dense as hardwoods so a given volume of wood
contains less energy. Using softwoods avoids overheating the house, which can be a common
problem with wood heating in moderate weather. Harder woods are best for colder winter
weather when more heat and longer burn cycles are desirable.
Hardwood trees like oak, maple, ash and beech are slower growing and longer lived than
softer woods like poplar and birch. That makes hardwood trees more valuable. The advice that
only hardwoods are good to burn is outdated. Old, leaky cast iron stoves wouldn’t hold a fire
overnight unless they were fed large pieces of hardwood.
3.2 Log Length
Logs should be cut at least 1" (25 mm) shorter than the firebox so they fit
in easily. Pieces that are even slightly too long makes loading the stove very
difficult. The most common standard length of firewood is 16" (400 mm).
3.3 Piece Size
Firewood dries more quickly when it is split. Large unsplit rounds can take years to dry enough
to burn. Even when dried, unsplit logs are difficult to ignite because they don’t have the sharp
edges where the flames first catch.
Wood should be split to a range of sizes, from about 3" to 6" (75 mm to 150 mm) in cross
section. Having a range of sizes makes starting and rekindling fires much easier.
3.4 Compressed Wood Logs
Compressed wood logs made of 100% compressed sawdust can be
burned with caution in the number of these logs burned at once. Do
not burn compressed logs made of wax impregnated sawdust or logs
with any chemical additives. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions
and warnings.
3.5 Drying Time
Firewood that is not dry enough to burn is the cause of most complaints about wood burning
appliances. Continually burning green or unseasoned wood produces more creosote and involves
lack of heat and dirty glass door.
Firewood with a moisture content between 15% and 20% will allow the stove to produce its
highest possible efficiency.

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Here are some facts to consider in estimating drying time:
− Firewood bought from a dealer is rarely
dry enough to burn, so it is advisable
to buy the wood in spring and dry it
yourself;
− Drying happens faster in dry weather
than in a damp climate;
− Drying happens faster in warm summer
weather than in winter weather;
− Split pieces dry more quickly than
unsplit rounds;
− Softwoods like pine, spruce, poplar,
and aspen take less time to dry than
hardwoods. They can be dry enough to
burn after being stacked to air dry only for the summer months;
− Hardwoods like oak, maple and ash can take one, or even two years to dry fully, especially if the
pieces are big;
− Firewood dries more quickly when stacked outside in a location exposed to sun and wind; it takes
much longer to dry when stacked in a wood shed;
− Firewood with a moisture content of 15% to 20% will allow the stove to reach its highest efficiency.
Firewood is dry enough to burn when:
− Cracks form at the end of logs;
− The wood turns from white or cream colored to grey or yellow;
− Two pieces of wood struck together sounds hollow;
− The face of a fresh cut feels warm and dry;
− The moisture content read by a moisture meter is between
15% to 20%.
4. Operating the Stove
Before using the stove, install the coil handles located in the user manual kit.
This wood heater has a manufacturer-set minimum low burn rate that
must not be altered. It is against federal regulations to alter this setting or
otherwise operate this wood heater in a manner inconsistent with operating
instructions in this manual.

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The following steps are optional :
• Install the fresh air intake (see «Appendix 1: Optional Fresh Air Intake Kit Installation»).
• Install the blower (see «Appendix 3: Optional Blower Installation»),
• Install the thermodisc (see «Appendix 4: Optional Thermodisc Installation»)
4.1 The Use of a Fire Screen
This stove has been tested for use with an open door in conjunction with a fire screen, sold
separately. The fire screen must be properly secured on the stove to avoid any risk of sparks
damaging the flooring. When the fire screen is in use, do not leave the stove unattended to
respond promptly in the event of smoke spillage into the room. Potential causes of smoke
spillage are described in Section «9. The Venting System» of this manual. See «Appendix 2:
Optional Fire Screen Installation» for installation instructions.
Operating the stove with a fire screen increases possibilities of generating carbon monoxide. Carbon
monoxide is an odourless gas that is highly toxic which can cause death at high concentration in
air. Installation of a carbon monoxide detector is highly recommended.
4.2 Blower Operation
A blower can be installed on this stove. It is optional and is sold separately. See «Appendix 8:
Exploded Diagram and Parts List» for genuine part number. The blower must be installed on the
back of the stove. See «Appendix 3: Optional Blower Installation». The blower is used to increase
the airflow through the heat exchanger and improve hot air circulation in the room.
When used regularly, the blower can provide a small increase
in efficiency, up to 2%. However, the use of a blower should
not be used as a way to gain more output from a stove that
is undersized for the space it is intended to heat.
The blower has a variable speed control that can be adjusted in three
different positions; either from high (HI) to low (LO) or closed (OFF).
Allow the stove to reach operating temperature (approximately one
hour) before turning on the blower, since increased airflow from the
blower will remove heat and affect the start up combustion efficiency.
It is also possible to install a heat sensor, sold separately. The heat sensor must also be installed
at the back of the stove. See «Appendix 4: Optional Thermodisc Installation». When the blower
is on (position between HI and LO), the heat sensor will make the blower start automatically
when the stove is hot enough and will stop it when the stove has cooled down. Therefore, the
blower speed control can be left at the desired setting.
Ensure the blower cord is not in contact with
any surface of the stove to prevent electrical
shock or fire damage. Do not run cord
underneath the stove.
OFF
HI
LO

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5. Burning Wood Efficiently
5.1 First Use
Two things happen when burning the first few fires; the paint cures and the internal components are
conditioned. As the paint cures, some of the chemicals vaporize. The vapors are not poisonous,
but they smell bad. Fresh paint fumes can also trigger false alarms in smoke detectors. When
lighting the heater for the first few times, it may be wise to open doors and windows to ventilate
the house.
Burn two or three small fires to begin the curing and conditioning process. Then build bigger
and hotter fires until there is no longer paint smell from the stove. As hotter and hotter fires are
burned, more of the painted surfaces reach the curing temperature of the paint. The smell of
curing paint does not disappear until one or two very hot fires have been burned.
5.2 Lighting Fires
Each person heating with wood develops its own favorite way to light fires. Regardless of the
method chosen, the goal should be to have a hot fire burning, quickly. A fire that ignites fast
produces less smoke and deposits less creosote in the chimney.
Here are three popular and effective ways to ignite wood fires.
5.2.1 Conventional Method
The conventional method to build a wood fire is to crumple 5 to 10 sheets
of newspaper and place them in the firebox and hold them in place
with ten pieces of kindling wood. The kindling should be placed on and
behind the newspaper. Then add two or three small pieces of firewood.
Open the air intake control completely and ignite the newspaper. Leave
the door slightly ajar.
Once the fire has ignited, the door can be closed with the air control still fully open. When the
kindling is almost completely burned, standard firewood pieces can be added.
Do not leave the heater unattended when the door is slightly open. Always close and latch
the door after the fire ignites.
5.2.2 The Top Down Method
This method is the opposite of the conventional method and only works properly if well-seasoned
wood is used. Place three or four small, split, dry logs in the firebox. Arrange the kindling wood
on the logs in two layers at right angles and place a dozen finely split kindling on the second
row. It is possible to use ragged paper but it may not hold in place since it tends to roll while it
is burning. The best is to wrap a sheet on itself, grab the ends of the roll and make a knot. Use
four or five sheets of paper tied together and put them on top and around the kindling.
Never use gasoline, gasoline-type lantern fuel (naphtha), fuel oil, motor oil,
kerosene, charcoal lighter fluid, or similar liquids or aerosols to start or
‘freshen up’ a fire in this wood stove. Keep all such liquids well away from
the stove while it is in use.

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Open the air intake control completely, ignite the paper and close the door.
The top down fire method has two advantages over the traditional method: first, the fire does
not collapse on itself, and it is not necessary to add wood gradually since the combustion
chamber is full before the fire is lit.
5.2.3 Two Parallel Logs Method
Two spit logs are placed in the firebox with a few sheets of twisted newspapers in between the
logs. Fine kindling is added across the two logs and some larger kindling across those, log cabin
style. Newspaper is lit.
5.2.4 Using Fire Starters
Commercial fire starters can be used instead of a newspaper. Some of these starters are made
of sawdust and wax and others are made of specialized flammable solid chemicals. Always
follow the package directions when using.
Gel starters can also be used, but only to light a fire, in a cold combustion chamber without hot
embers inside.
5.3 Combustion Cycles
Wood heating with a space heater is very different than other forms of heating. There will be
temperature variations in different parts of the house and there will be temperature variations
throughout day and night. This is normal, and for experienced wood burners these are advantages
of zone heating wood burning.
Wood heaters don’t have a steady heat output. It is normal for the temperature to rise after
a new load of wood is ignited and for its temperature to gradually decrease throughout the
burning cycle. This increasing and decreasing temperature can be matched with the household
routines. For example, the temperature in the area can be cooler when the household is active,
and it can be warmer when it is inactive.
Wood burns best in cycles. A cycle starts when a new load of wood is ignited by hot coals and
ends when that load has been consumed down to a bed of charcoal about the same size as it
was when the wood was loaded.
Trying to produce a steady heat output by placing a single log on the fire at regular intervals
is not recommended. Always place at least three, and preferably more pieces on the fire at a
time so that the heat radiated from one piece helps to ignite the pieces next to it. Each load of
wood should provide several hours of heating. The size of each load may vary depending on the
amount of heat required.
Burning in cycles means the loading door does not need to be opened while the wood is flaming.
This is an advantage since it is preventing smoke leaking from the heater when the door is
opened as a full fire is burning. This is especially true if the chimney is on the outside wall of the
house.
If the door must be opened while the fire is flaming, fully open air control for a few
minutes then open the door slowly.

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5.4 Rekindling a Fire
When the temperature of the room is lower and all that remains is embers, it is time to reload.
Most of the remaining embers will be at the back of the firebox. Remove excess ash from the
front of the firebox and bring the embers forward before reloading. Place a new load of wood
on, and at the back of the embers. Open the air control completely and close the door.
Raking the coals is useful for two reasons. First, it brings them near where most of the combustion
air enters the firebox. This will ignite the new load quickly. Secondly, the charcoal will not be
smothered by the new load of wood. When the embers are simply spread inside the combustion
chamber, the new load smoulder for a long time before igniting.
Close the air control only when the firebox is full of bright turbulent flames, the wood is charred,
and its edges are glowing.
The heater should not be left unattended during ignition and the
fire should not burn at full intensity for more than a few minutes.
When lighting a new load, the appliance produces a heat surge. This heat surge is pleasant
when the room temperature is cool but can be unpleasant when the room is already warm.
Therefore, it is best to let each load of wood burn completely so that the room cools down
before reloading.
5.5 Removing Ashes
Ash should be removed from the firebox every two to three days of full-time heating. Ash
should not accumulate excessively in the firebox since it will affect the proper operation of the
appliance. The best time to remove ash is in the morning, after an overnight fire when the heater
is relatively cold, but there is still a little chimney draft to draw the ash dust into the heater and
prevent going out into the room.
Ashes should be placed in a tightly covered metal container. The container must be
placed on a non-combustible floor or on the ground well away from all combustible
materials. Ashes almost always contain live embers that can stay hot for days and
which release carbon monoxide gas. If the ashes are disposed of by burial in soil or
otherwise locally dispersed, they should be kept in a closed metal container until
they are completely cooled. No other waste should be placed in this container.
NEVER STORE ASHES INDOORS OR IN A NON-METALLIC CONTAINER
OR ON A WOODEN DECK.
CENDRES
ASHES

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5.6 Air Intake Control
Once the firewood, firebox and chimney are hot, air intake can be
reduced to achieve a steady burn.
As the air intake is reduced, the burn rate decreases. This has the
effect of distributing the thermal energy of the fuel over a longer
period of time. In addition, the flow rate of exhaust through the
appliance and flue pipe slows down, which increases the duration
of the energy transfer of the exhaust gases. As the air intake is
reduced, the flame slows down. If the flames diminish to the point
of disappearing, the air intake has been reduced too early in the
combustion cycle or the wood used is too wet. If the wood is dry
and the air control is used properly, the flames should decrease,
but remain bright and stable.
On the other hand, too much air can make the fire uncontrollable, creating very high temperatures in
the unit as well as in the chimney and seriously damaging them. A reddish glow on the unit and on the
chimney components indicates overheating. Excessive temperatures can cause a chimney fire.
5.7 Fire Types
Using the air intake control is not the only way to match the appliance heat output to the desired
temperature in the house. A house will need far less heating in October than in January to
maintain a comfortable temperature. Filling the firebox full in fall weather will overheat the space.
Otherwise, the combustion rate will have to be reduced to a minimum and the fire will be smoky
and inefficient.
Here are some suggestions for building fires suitable for different heating needs.
5.7.1 Flash Fire
To build a small fire that will produce a low heat output, use small pieces of firewood and load
them crisscross in the firebox. The pieces should only be 3" (80 mm) to 4" (100 mm) in diameter.
After raking the coals, lay two pieces parallel to each other diagonally in the firebox and lay two
more across them in the other direction. Open the air control fully and only reduce the air after
the wood is fully flaming. This kind of fire is good for mild weather and should provide enough
heat for up to four hours. Small fires like this are a good time to use softer wood species and
avoid overheating the house.
5.7.2 Long Lasting Fire
For a fire that will last up to eight hours but will not produce intense heat, use soft wood and
place the logs compactly in the firebox. Before reducing the air intake, the load will have to burn
at full heat for long enough for charring the surface of the logs. The flame must be bright before
letting the fire burn by itself.
5.7.3 High Output Fires
When heating needs are high during cold weather, the fire should burn steadily and brightly. This
is the time to use larger pieces of hardwood. Place the biggest pieces at the back of the firebox
and place the rest of the pieces compactly. A densely built fire like this will produce the longest
combustion this stove is capable of.

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Special attention must be paid when building fires like this since if the air intake is reduced too
quickly, the fire could smoulder. The wood must be flaming brightly before leaving the fire to
burn.
5.7.4 Burn Cycle Time
The burn cycle time is the period between loading wood on a coal bed and the consumption of
that wood back to a coal bed of the same size. The flaming phase of the fire lasts for roughly
the first half of the burn cycle and the second half is the coal bed phase during which there is
little or no flame.
The burning time expected from this stove, including both phases, will vary depending on a
number of things, such as:
− firebox size,
− the amount of wood loaded,
− the species of wood,
− the wood moisture content,
− the size of the space to be heated,
− the climate zone where the house is, and
− the time of the year.
The table below gives an approximate maximum burn cycle time, based on firebox volume.
Table 1 : Approximate Maximum Burn Cycle Time
FIREBOX VOLUME MAXIMUM BURN CYCLE TIME
<1.5 cubic feet 3 to 5 hours
1.5 c.f. to 2.0 c.f 5 to 6 hours
2.0 c.f. to 2.5 c.f. 6 to 8 hours
2.5 c.f. to 3.0 c.f. 8 to 9 hours
>3.0 c.f. 9 to 10 hours
A longer burning time is not necessarily an indication of efficient operation. It is preferable to
build a smaller fire that will provide three or four hours of heating than to fully load the firebox
for a much longer burn. Shorter burn cycles make it easier to match the heat output of the stove
to heat demand for space.
5.7.5 Logs Orientation
In a relatively square firebox, the wood can be loaded north-south (ends of the logs visible) or
east-west (sides of the logs visible). North-south loads allow more wood to be loaded at the
same time. On the other hand, they break into smaller pieces faster. This kind of load is good
for high output, long lasting fires for cold weather. East-west loads allow a limited amount of
wood since too many logs could cause them to fall on the glass. Placed in a compact way, they
take a long time before breaking down. They are excellent for low-intensity, long-lasting fires in
relatively mild weather.
5.7.6 Carbon Monoxide
When unburned logs remain in the firebox and the flame disappears, go outside and look at the
chimney exit. If there is visible smoke, it means that there is still combustible to burn but that
the fire lacks air to burn properly. In this situation, the CO rate will increase so it is important to
react. Open the door slightly and move the log with a poker. Turn it over and create a passage
for the air below, making a trench with the coal bed. Add small pieces of wood to restart the
combustion.