Clear Water MineralPURE RC-50 User manual

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The healthy alternative in water purification
RC-50 USER MANUAL
with built-in
6/12 CLM-284

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Model RC-50
Page(s)
A.) Identifying theRC-50 Components..................................................................... 3
B.) Tools and Materials Required............................................................................... 4
C.) Site Survey............................................................................................................... 4
D.) Installingthe Unit................................................................................................... 5-10
E.) Balancing the Pool’s Water.................................................................................... 10-12
F.)Starting Upthe System............................................................................................ 12-13
G.) Proper Procedures of Maintaining a Healthy Pool............................................ 14
H.) Cleaning and/or Replacing the Electrodes.......................................................... 15
I.) RC-50 Control Box Features.................................................................................. 16-20
J.) Troubleshooting...................................................................................................... 20-22
K.) Optional RC-50 Components............................................................................... 22
L.) RC-50 Specifications.............................................................................................. 23
Thank you for purchasing the RC-50 MineralPURE/ScaleBlaster unit for your swimming pool. Using
new state-of-the-art microchip technology, you have unquestionably the finest ionization system in the world!
You can now truly enjoy your swimming pool –the way it was meant to be. You will be swimming in
natural “mineral spring” like water. No more red eyes, bleached out swimsuits, and dry itchy skin!
Please follow all instructions and keep the “Quick Chart” handy for quick reference!
Table of Contents

A.) Identifying the RC-50 Components
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The RC-50 MineralPURE unit should contain all the components listed below.
Copper Test Kit (1)
CLA-41
ScaleBlaster Signal
Wire (60ft.)
12” Zip Ties (3)
Control Unit (1)
Users Manual (1)
Control Unit Mount-
ing Brackets (4)
Mounting Bracket
Screws (4)
Electrode (1)
CLE-11
O-Ring (1)
CET-0648
RC-50 Quick
Chart Card (1)
Flow-Cell Chamber (1)
CET-0647 Threaded Male
Adapters(2) CET-
0008
2”-1 1/2”
Reducers (2)

A.) Identifying the RC-50 Components
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CET-0607
Warranty Card (1)

B.) Tools and Materials Required
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C.) Site Survey
Control Box
Location
Power
Source
Within
6 feet
Electrode
chamber
within 10 feet
ScaleBlaster
signal cable
within
10 feet
The RC-50 MineralPURE/ScaleBlaster unit should be installed at the pool’s pump and filter area. You
will need to locate a place to mount the RC-50 control box on a wall and within 10 feet or so of where you
will install the electrode chamber and ScaleBlaster signal coil on the return line of your pool equipment.
This location will also need to be within 6 feet of an electrical source.
•Bullet Level
•Conduit Connector, ½” Straight
•Crescent Wrench
•Hacksaw or Pipe Cutter
•PVC Cement
•Screwdrivers, Flat &Phillips
•Teflon Tape or LiquidTeflon
•Voltage Meter
•Channel Lock Wrench
•Conduit, Flexable
•Drill & Drill Bits
•Hammer
•PVC Cleaner/Primer
•Screws &Anchors
•Utility Knife
•Wire Stripper

D.) Installing the Unit
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Turn off the pump and all valves. Disconnect all power
going to the motor, timer box or power source.
1.) Wrap Teflon tape around the two threaded male
adapters. You can also use “Liquid Teflon” a thread sealant
with Teflon. Always use plenty of tape to avoid possible
leaks. Screw adapters into the black flow cell chamber.
2.) If the pipe size where the flow-cell chamber
is being installed is 1 ½”, glue the two reducer
bushings (2” x 1 ½”) into the male adapters.
This step is not necessary if installing on two-
inch pipe.
3.) Locate a space to mount the black flow-cell chamber. Always install on the
return line. If possible, install the chamber after the filter, but it is not
required if there is not enough space. If necessary, you can re-pipe an entire section to allow proper room for the electrode
chamber or ScaleBlaster coil.
4.) Using a hacksaw or pipe cutter, cut out a 6”section of pipe if 2” pipe exists, or 6 ½” of pipe if 1 ½” pipe exists.
5.) In the area where the pipe was cut out, mount the black flow-cell chamber horizontally to avoid possible air pockets.
In other words, make sure the black flow cell is angled downward, so that when the electrodes are screwed into the cham-
ber, the wire connections are facing the ground and not the sky. The tee can also be installed on any vertical pipe. Do not
force pipes as they may snap. Always use PVC cleaner on the inside of the tee and the outside of the pipe before slapping
on the glue. Do not perform this step until you are absolutely ready to install the tee, as the cement will cure very quickly.
Installing the Electrode Chamber

D.) Installing the Unit
(Continued)
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Installing the Control Box
6.) Seat the “O” ring in the electrode jar and screw into the black flow-cell chamber by using your hands. No Teflon tape
or wrench required!
Keep the protective clear plastic sheet on during installation to stay clear of scratching the unit.
1.) Install the four mounting brackets using the enclosed screws to the back of the control box.
2.) Mount the microprocessor control box to the wall allowing for the power cable wire to reach the source of power; the
electrode wire to reach the electrodes; and the ScaleBlaster signal cable to wrap around the pipe - also on the return line.
Use proper anchors and screws to mount on the surface (wood, stucco etc.).

D.) Installing the Unit
(Continued)
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The RC-50 unit will automatically detect 110 or 220VAC and no adjustments are required. When locating
the power source, make sure that when the pump and motor shuts off, the MineralPURE power box does too.
The ideal source is the timer box. If no timer box exists, the unit can use the pump motor as its power source.
230 VAC Operation:
Connect the black (3 stranded) wire cable to the 230 VACtimer box by splicing the 3
wires and connecting the black and white wires to the LOAD side on the timer box.
It makes no difference which colored wire goes to the two load screws. Connect the
green wire to GROUND. When installed properly, the unit should come on and off
when the pool pump goes on and off.
115 VAC Operation:
Connect either the white wire or the black wire to the LOAD side on the timer box. It makes no difference
which colored wire goes to the two load screws. Connect the green wire to ground.
When installed properly, the unit should come on and off when the pool pump goes
on and off.
Choosing the Power Source
WARNING!
YOUMUSTFOLLOWALLLOCAL,STATE,
NATIONALOR INTERNATIONALCODES
WHEN INSTALLING THIS EQUIPMENT.
A CERTIFIED ELECTRICIAN MAY BE
REQUIRED FOR THIS PART OF THE
INSTALLATION.
Connecting to the Timer Box

D.) Installing the Unit
(Continued)
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Disconnect the back plate to the motor where the electrical
connections are. You will notice two connections where the
power source is connected. Connect the MineralPURE’s power
cable cord (black, white and green) to the same as the motor’s
connections. If connected properly, the unit should come on and
off with the motor.
You should use a flexible conduit from connection to connection
on the power cord to meet codes. The size of the connector
already on the control box is 1/2”. There is no need to cover up
the electrode wire with conduit.
Connect the two electrode wires (gray colored) to the electrode connectors on
the bottom of the electrode jar. It does not matter what wire is connected to the
electrode terminals. Make sure they do not touch each other. These connectors are
weatherproof and there is no need to cover them.
Connecting to the Pump Motor
Conduit Connections
Connecting the Electrode Wires

D.) Installing the Unit
(Continued)
P 9
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The most desirable place to install the ScaleBlaster signal cable is on the return line away from any elbows,
couplings, tees or valves as possible. You also want to be as far away from any electrical motor as possible as
this could affect the signal. You will need about four inches of space.
1.) Insert the pre-stripped end of the signal cable into one of the two binding
posts located on the bottom of the control box. It does not matter if you hook it
up to the red or the black binding post. The receptacle post can be unscrewed
by turning it counter-clockwise. This will expose a small hole in the post.
Tighten the receptacle post as much as possible with the signal cable completely
threaded through he hole.
2.) Route the signal cable from the power unit’s terminal to the location where
signal cable will be wrapped. Hold the cable parallel and next to the pipe and
install one of the nylon cable ties. Make sure the cable tie is pulled tightly so
that the cable is secured to the pipe. Remove the excess cable tie with cutters.
3.) Make sure the wraps are flush against one another –never overlapping.
Wrap the coils around the pipe 40 times.
4.) Once the wrapping is complete, secure the signal cable to the pipe using another nylon cable tie. Remove
the excess cable tie with cutters.
5.) Route the loose end of the signal cable back to the power unit. Trim
the cable to length. There may be several feet of unused wire. This extra
wire was included in case the control box was mounted several feet away
from the return line.
Connecting the ScaleBlaster Signal Cable

D.) Installing the Unit
(Continued)
P 10
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6.) Carefully strip the outer plastic shield
from the end of the signal cable, leaving
about 1/4” to 3/8” of bare cable. Twist the
bare cable and insert the end into
the unused receptacle post on the power
unit. Tighten the receptacle post. Make sure
all the threads of the signal cable go though
the terminal hole.
Beforeturning onthe system,it is imperative that the pool’s waterbe clearandbalanced properly. Without proper
balancing, the unit may not perform properly.
If the previous sanitizer used was Baquacil, you will need to remove every drop of it, as Baquacil is not compatible
with any other sanitizer including MineralPURE. The best way to remove it is to drain the pool completely and refill
with fresh water. You should also change the sand in the filter, acid wash the cartridges or change the DE in a DE filter.
Consult a professional first if draining the pool. Contact your dealer or Clearwater Enviro Technologies, Inc. for more
assistance.
If the pool was using an automatic chlorine generator (where salt is added to make chlorine at the site), the water should
be drained at least 3/4 of the way and refilled with new water. Usually the TDS level is very high and should be lowered.
If the pool was using chlorine, it is all right to go ahead and install the MineralPURE, as the two work together
fine. In fact, some chlorine should be in the pool until the system takes over.
Make sure the filtration system and circulation is good. Check the filter to make sure it is cleaned or back- washed
properly. The filter pressure gauge should give you an indication right away. If the sand in a sand filter is several years
old, you may want to change it. For cartridge filters, check the canister inside to make sure the polyester fabric or
corrugated paper is in good shape. If you have a DE filter, change the DE.
Good circulation is important because you will no longer be dumping a lot of chlorine in the pool to “cover-up” a bad
filtering system. Make sure the skimmer basket is empty and the strainer basket at the pump. This is very important.
If you have a pool sweep or vacuum, continue using it as this helps on circulation.
Always make sure there is some chlorine in the pool when first starting up the system, as it may take a few days to fully
“ionize” a pool. Never add granular chlorine (like HTH) directly to the pool with the MineralPURE unit.
Always make sure the water is clear before installing the ionizer by using chlorine. The
MineralPURE unit itself will not clear up cloudy water.
Previous Sanitizer Use
E.) Balancing the Pool’s Water
Proper Circulation
Chlorine

P 11
E.) Balancing the Pool’s Water (Continued)
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The most important factor is in water chemistry is the pH reading. It should be kept between 7.2 and 7.8 at all
times. If the pH gets too high, MineralPURE’s ions loose their effectiveness and can fall out of solution. Always get
the pH on the lower side –7.2 to 7.4 for best results. This is standard water chemistry.
If the pH is above 7.8 - Using an acid demand test with your regular test kit, determine the amount of muriatic acid
needed to lower the pH down to 7.2. Add the acid and check a few hours later to make sure it is in the correct range.
If the pH is under 7.2 - Using a base demand test with your regular test kit, determine the amount of soda ash needed to
raise the pH to at least 7.2. If the pH tends to go down all the time, add enough soda ash to raise the pH to 7.8
Tips on balancing the pH - Test the pH at least once a week or after a heavy rainstorm. When adjusting the pH, don’t
wait fort the pH to reach 8.0 before adding acid. Go ahead an add a little acid if the pH is over 7.6. If you use the non-
chlorine shock as an oxidizer, this will lower the pH and may eliminate acid use completely.
Maintain the total alkalinity between 80-120. This should be tested at least once a month.
If the total alkalinity is under 80ppm - Raise the total alkalinity by adding sodium bicarbonate (baking soda). Consult
chart with your test kit for the amount needed (based on pool size).
If the total alkalinity is over 120ppm - Lower the total alkalinity by adding muriatic acid. Consult chart with your test
kit for the amount to add.
The calcium hardness level should be between 150-350ppm. If the reading is well over that, the pool should be partial-
ly drained and refilled with fresh water. If the reading is under that, chances are the pool was filled with softened water.
Calcium chloride should be added to the pool. 1 1/4 lbs will raise the calcium hardness by 10ppm per 10,000 gallons.
Cyanuric acid is not required with the MineralPURE unit. If the reading is over 150ppm, the pool should be partially
drained and refilled with fresh water.
The MineralPURE unit requires some conductivity in the water for ionization to take place. A high TDS level can cause
cloudiness and the unit not to work efficiently. The TDS level should be between 300 and 2000 ppm. The TDS reading
can be obtained at any pool store.
If the reading is below 300ppm - To raise the TDS level, you would need to add one pound of regular salt to raise the
TDS by 12ppm per 10,000 gallons. You should only do this if you are unable to obtain the desired ion level in the pool
because of a low TDS (see chapter later in this manual). Always consult your dealer or Clearwater with help in this mat-
ter.
If the reading is over 2000ppm - To lower the TDS level, you should partially drain and refill with fresh water. This
is standard pool water chemistry. If the unit is being installed on a saltwater pool, the unit will work without any
adjustments and there is no need to lower the TDS level.
Total Dissolved Solids
pH Reading Must be Between 7.2 and 7.8
TotalAlkalinity
Calcium Hardness
Cyanuric Acid

P 12
E.) Balancing the Pool’s Water (Continued)
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Before installing the MineralPURE unit, the copper level should be tested. There may be readings of copper sulfate in the
water from leached copper piping or from a copper based algaecide. Correct the problem by either locating the copper pipe
(usually next to a water heater) and balancing the pH, or eliminating any algaecides completely. Shock the pool with an
extra heavy dose of chlorine to get rid of the algaecides.
If using the Copper/Silver electrode CLE-42 or CLE-44, the table below will allow you to lookup the calculated silver
content in your water based upon measured copper levels.
Reading using the CLA-41 Copper
Test Kit in PPM
Calculated Silver Level if using
the CLA-42 90/10 copper/silver
electrodes in PPM
Calculated Silver Level if using
the CLA-44 80/20 copper/silver
electrodes in PPM
0.05
0.0056
0.0125
0.10
0.0111
0.0250
0.15
0.0167
0.0375
0.20
0.0222
0.0500
0.30
0.0333
0.0750
0.50
0.0556
0.1250
0.70
0.778
0.1750
1.00
0.1111
0.2500
When all of the above steps have been completed, it is time to start up the
system. Open all valves and turn the power on. Check for water leaks and
all electrical connections for proper and firm connections. Remove the clear
protective sheet from the control unit. When starting the system, the
Clearwater Enviro Technologies, Inc. logo should first appear, followed by
a three-digit number. To get better acquainted with the unit, turn the
control knob counter-clockwise till the unit reads “OFF”.
Once you have obtained the desired reading, the setting will most likely remain at that value the entire season, or close
to it. The trick is getting the desired reading quickly.
By turning the control knob clockwise, the unit will read a three-digit number. These are actually milliamp (mA)
readouts and go from 005 to 600 in 5 mA increments. If the readout does not go all the way to 600, chances are the TDS
level is not over 300 or so. Do not cause any alarm or add salt to the pool unless you are not able to obtain the desired
ion level (more in this section to follow).
Copper Level
F.) Starting Up the System
Setting the Control Knob to the Desired Level

P 13
F.)Starting Up the System
(continued)
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There are a lot of factors that can effect the rate the MineralPURE will produce the ions (see section in Trou-
bleshooting). In order to get the desired reading of 0.2 to 0.3 quickly, you will need to set the unit to its maxi- mum current
output (600mA). Turn the knob clockwise to reach this setting. Again, if you can’t reach 600, do not worry at this time.
Eventually, the TDS level will rise as will your readout.
Other factors that effect the level ions are produced are keeping the pH under 7.8; the number of hours the filter runs, and
the setting of the unit. Other factors include water temperature and the amount of algae/bacteria al- ready in the water.
As a rule of thumb, it will take about 24 hours to get a pool of 10,000 gallons fully “ionized” and to the desired level of
0.2-0.3 . So if your pool is 20,000 gallons, it may take two full days of running “around the clock” to reach this level. If
you run the pool 8 hours a day (the normal time) it would take six days to reach the desired level.
Included with every unit is an Ion Test Kit. The easy-to-use instructions are located on the
inside cover of the lid. Please follow those instructions carefully, as the reading you get is
most important in how you set the MineralPURE control knob. When using this test kit,
make sure you wait 3 minutes for the test to develop and look down into the tube, not from
the side. There is a reading or color match for
0.2 and one for 0.3 on the enclosed chart. Ideally, we would like the readings to be
anywhere in that area.
Once the desired level is obtained, you will need to find a setting point on the control box
where the ion readings will remain in that range of 0.2 and 0.3 . The biggest fac- tor is water
temperature. As a rule of thumb, if the pool is 10,000 gallons, the read- ing on the control
box should be around 75-100. It may be lower in cooler climates, or higher in warmer
climates. Someone in Maine may keep the level at 25, while in
Florida it may be 125. A 20,000-gallon pool may need a reading of 150 to 200. A 50,000-gallon pool may need a
reading of 375 to 500 or so. This is also based on running the system 8 hours a day. It is all proportion- ate. So if the
pool ran 24 hours a day, the settings would be 1/3 that.
When you lower you setting, it is best to test on a daily basis. If the readings continue to go up, lower the set- ting and
retest the following day at about the same time. If the reading goes down, turn the control knob up some, and test again
the next day. Eventually you will find the proper setting. Once you do, the setting will stay near that the entire season. If
your pool is open year round, like in Florida, you will have a lower setting in the winter and a higher setting in the
summer.
THE DESIRED ION LEVEL IN THE POOL IS 0.2 –0.3
Using the MineralPURE Ion Test Kit
Once the Desired Level is Obtained

G.) Proper Procedures of Maintaining a HealthyPool
\
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•Keep the pH between 7.2 and 7.8
•Keep total alkalinity between 80-120ppm
•Maintain Ion level between 0.2 and 0.3 ppm
•Maintain normal pool maintenance –keep filter cleaned, empty baskets,etc.
•Add an occasional oxidizer
An occasional oxidizer is necessary to burn off body oils, suntan lotions, and particles that get into the water and cancause
cloudiness. Always add an oxidizer whenever the water loses its “sparkle”. Don’t wait for the water to get cloudy, or an
extra dose will be required.
There are several oxidizer options:
Non-chlorine shock -Add one (1) pound of potassium monopersulfate (non-chlorine shock) per 10,000 gallons once a week
during the warm weather season, less frequently during the cooler weather, or when the water loses its “sparkle”. You may
also want to add some non-chlorine shock after a rainstorm if the pool was left uncovered. These are available in most pool
stores, or at Leslie’s Swimming Pool Supplies (1-800-537-5437) ask for “Fresh ’N Clear”.
Household bleach - Add two (2) quarts of regular household bleach per 10,000 gallons once a week. You may also use
liquid chlorine –but only ½ the amount. This small amount will dissolve rapidly and you will have chlorine-free water in
a few minutes.
Tablet in skimmer - Add a 3” Trichlor tablet in the skimmer for continuous oxidizing. The reading will be so low that it
won’t be detectable. This is ideal for pools with heavy swimmer use or if the homeowner is away often.
Add ozone to your system - By adding a corona discharge ozone generator to your system, you can virtually eliminate add-
ing any oxidizers to your pool. Contact your dealer for more information.
If your pool is made of a white marcite or gunite finish, we strongly recommend you add a sequestering agent
to prevent any type of staining in the pool. There are two types we recommend:
- Pool Stain Treat by United Chemical [phone] - Jacks Magic [phone]
These products or ones similar are available in all pool stores worldwide.
INCLUDED WITH THIS PACKAGE IS A “QUICK CHART” THAT
GIVES YOU THE BASICS OF MAINTAINING A PROPER POOL.
PLEASE REFER TO THAT SHEET WHENEVER POSSIBLE. IF
YOU EVER HAVE ANY QUESTIONS, CONTACT YOUR DEALER
OR CLEARWATER ENVIRO FOR ANY ASSISTANCE.
Adding an Occasional Oxidizer
Ionizeers are designed for supplementary disinfection and therefore are intended for use with
appropriate residual levels of EPAregistered disinfecting chemicals. Specific residual levels of EPA
registered disinfecting chemicals may be required by the regulatory agency havingauthority.
WARNING: Excessive amounts of Copper may cause staining of pool and spa surfaces
Add a Sequestering Agent for Marcite/ Gunite Pool
Page 14

H.) Cleaning and/or Replacing the Electrodes
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The only part of the MineralPURE Ionizer that will need
maintenance or replacement is the electrodes. They should last
about 1-5 years depending on your pool size, length of swimming
season, water temperature and how well the water was balanced
(ion level, pH, etc.). If the LCD display reads a warning to “Check
Electrodes”, it may be time to clean or replace them. To inspect the
electrodes, simply unscrew the electrode chamber with your hands
and visually inspect the electrode bars. A blue greenish coating
is normal, however, if there is a heavy buildup, you may need to
clean the electrode. Using an old toothbrush and lemon juice or a
muriatic acid/water solution, scrub the buildup off the electrode. If
the electrodes are thin and worn out, they will need to be replaced.
You should replace the reagents at least once a year. You can either replace the entire test kit (exactly as
supplied in the box when you received the MineralPURE unit) or replace the reagents.
Contact your dealer or Clearwater Enviro Technologies, Inc. for more ordering information
or visit www.ElectrodeWarehouse.com
Electrode Reordering Information:
Replacement Electrode - Part # CLE-11 - residential copper electrode for the RC-50 Model.
Replacement Electrode - Part # CLE-42 (90/10) - residential copper/silver electrode for the RC-50 Model
Replacement Electrode - Part # CLE-44 (80/20) - residential copper/silver electrode for the RC-50 Model
Ion –Test Kit Replacement
Order # CLA-41 MineralPURE complete test kit
Order # CLA-42 Replacement reagents “A” and “B”

I.) RC-50 Control BoxFeatures
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RC-50 Control
Unit
LCD Display
Clear Lid Latch
Output Adjust
Knob
Power Cable
Scaleblaster Coil
Binding Post
Electrode Cable
The RC-50 control box has one LCD display screen and one control knob for easy to use simplicity.
Output Current
Indicator
Electrode Status
Icon
Coil Status Icon
Scrolling Status
Messages
Main Screen

I.) RC-50 Control BoxFeatures
(Continued)
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This value indicates the output current flowing through the electrodes. It is
adjustable from zero (OFF) to six hundred milliamps (mA) , in five mA
increments.
STEADY ON - NORMAL OPERATION
The electrode icon on the upper right side of the main screen indicates the electrical
polarity as well as its operational status. The pictures to the right show theelectrode icon
switching from one polarity to the other. This will occur every five minuets and allow the
electrodes to wear evenly to maximize the life of the electrodes.
BLINKING - CHECK ELECTRODE or WATER TDS TOO LOW
In this mode the electrode icon will blink. The output current indicator will also change
from the set to current value to the actual current value. The main cause for this to occur is
the TDS level of the water is too low. In most cases the TDS level will rise and no action is
required. Another reason for this warning is that the electrodes are worn out and need replacing. See the section on
Inspecting and Replacing the Electrodes for more information.
BLINKING with SHORT - SHORT CIRCUIT on ELECTRODE
This error mode is very unlikely to occur. If it should happen, most likely it will be caused by
something (usually a piece of metal) bridging (shorting) the electrode terminals. Tocorrect the error
check the electrode terminals and wiring to make sure they are not touching each other. Also make sure no foreign
material is shorting out the electrode from inside the electrode chamber.
BLINKING with OPEN - OPEN CIRCUIT on ELECTRODE
This will most likely happen if one of the wires gets cut or otherwise disconnected from the electrode. Check
both terminals on the electrode, making sure they are connected and not excessively corroded. Also make sure
there are no nicks or cuts in the electrode cable.
STEADY ON - NORMAL OPERATION
The coil icon on the right side of the main screen indicates the operational status of the
Scaleblaster coil.
BLINKING - OPEN COIL
In this mode the coil has been disconnected from the RC-50 control unit. Check the red and black
binding post to make sure the coil wires are connected properly.
Output Current Indicator
Electrode Status Icon
Coil Status Icon

I.) RC-50 Control BoxFeatures
(Continued)
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The scrolling status messages are located at the bottom of the main screen. There are five different messages.
1). UNIT FUNCTIONING CORRECTLY: Lets the user know everything is ok and that the control unitis
functioning.
2). CHECK ELECTRODE CONNECTIONS: A problem with the electrode connection has been detected.
Inspect the electrode wire connection to the electrode terminals, make sure they are well connected and there is
no corrosion. Also inspect the electrode cable and make sure there are no cuts or gouges.
3). INSPECT ELECTRODE FOR SHORTS: The control box has detected a short between the electrode
elements. This can be caused by a piece of metal physically touching both of the electrode terminals or by a
piece of metal inside the electrode chamber touching both electrodes.
4). CHECK COIL CONNECTIONS: The coil wire(s) has been disconnected. Check the wiring and the
black and red binding posts to make sure there are no loose or disconnected wires.
5). INSPECT ELECTRODE & MAKE SURE TDS IS NOT TOO LOW: This message will be displayed
if the user is setting the output current to a level that the control unit is unable to obtain. This is caused by the
electrode resistance being too high. This increased resistance can be caused by a worn out electrode or by a low
TDS level in the water. A TDS of 250ppm will allow a current flow of about 425-450 mA, with a new set of
electrodes.
This screen is used to display more technical information to the user or service technician. The following code
will access the Diagnostic Screen:
Output Current Set -
Actual Output Current Reading-
Duty Cycle of Output -
Total Hours Unit Has been On -
Output Voltage -
LCD Display Contrast % -
Error Status Number-
1) Turn the output current knob until the output current indicator is 005, wait about two
seconds and you will notice the electrode icon will switch polarities.
2) Next dial in 030, and wait 2 seconds
3) Next dial in 015, and wait 2 seconds
The screen above should now be displayed. The control unit will return to the main screen when power is
removed and then reapplied. The user can also dial in the following code to return to the main screen:
Scrolling Status Messages
Diagnostic Screen

I.) RC-50 Control BoxFeatures
(Continued)
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1) Turn the output current knob until the output set value is 000 wait about two seconds and
you will notice the electrode icon will switch polarities.
2) Next dial in 025, and wait 2 seconds
3) Next dial in 010, and wait 2 seconds
The control unit’s LCD display should now show the main screen.
The diagnostic screen monitors seven different operational values. Each value is described in detail below.
OUTPUT CURRENT SET This is the set point for the output current (in milliampere). The RC-50 will
maintain this amperage setting thru the electrodes.
OUTPUT CURRENT READING This is a measured current value (in milliampere) of the current flowing
thru the electrodes. This value is an instantaneous value and may or may not indicate a steady state current
value. When in Analog Mode this reading will be the same as the current set value. When in Pulse Width
Modulation Mode this value divided by the Duty Cycle Value will equal the current set value.
DUTY CYCLE OF OUTPUT When in the pulse width modulation mode, this is the ON time of the current
output to the electrodes.
TOTAL HOURS UNIT HAS BEEN ON Total time (in hours) the RC-50 control unit has been in operation.
OUTPUT VOLTAGE This is the output voltage across the electrodes. This voltage can range from 6VDC to
20VDC depending on the electrode conditions, water TDS, and output current setting.
LCD DISPLAY CONTRAST The LCD display’s contrast setting, in percentage.
ERROR STATUS NUMBERS This is a numerical representation of the present status. The Values and the
meaning are written below.
1) Normal Mode
2) Electrode Open Circuit
3) Electrode Short Circuit
4) Check Coil
5) Electrode Resistance Too High
The LCD contrast adjustment screen allows the user to adjust the darkness of the LCD display. To access this
screen the user must dial-in the correct code on the output adjust knob. The following code will access the LCD
contrast adjustment screen.
1) Turn the output current knob until the output current indicator is 010, wait about two
seconds and you will notice the electrode icon will switch polarities.
Diagnostic Screen (Continued)
LCD Contrast Adjust Screen