Conowingo Models Caboose 2 User manual

Caboose #2
HO Scale
www.conowingomodels.com
https://www.facebook.com/ConowingoModels/
[e-mail]
Thank you for purchasing this kit!
The enclosed caboose is fictional but based on some real-
world information. It is derived from the 36-Foot
Wooden Boxcar kit.
The premise being that a boxcar was repurposed as a
caboose and possibly a Railway Post Office (RPO) for
short line use. The prototype was stained and then dry
brushed with Apple Barrel Chocolate Bar to simulate
being used and abused.
Many of the diagrams do not include the differences
between the boxcar and caboose versions.
Supplied are the basic directions. For more tips and
some additional instructions, please see
conowingomodels.com
BUILDING THE FRAME
1. Start out by removing the frame from its carrier.
Note there is a side with lines that denote where the
bolsters and queenposts go. This is the underside.
You’ll also note where the coupler boxes go. Plan out
where you’ll want to add weights. The NMRA, in RP-
20 (essentially) states that the 36-footer should
weigh 3.875 ounces. An unweighted example I used
weighed less than .5 ounces. If you’re not liking the
options, I’d suggest adding a permanent load weight.
Failure to add weight will result in a very
uncooperative car that doesn’t stay on the tracks.
2. Assemble the trucks and coupler boxes (some kits) as
shown below.
(courtesy Tichy Train Group)
3. Paint the NBWs, stake pockets, ladders, brake parts
and trucks as desired. See step 17 for illustration.
4. Take the included needle and run it through the
holes in the end and side pieces as well as the truss
rod holes to ensure that there is no glue or errant
laser residue in them.
5. If you’re adding a lighting kit, plan out where the
wires will run and where the lights will go and where
you will need to deviate to accommodate those
items.
6. Cut the 1/32 x 3/32 wide stripwood for the decking
to 9.5 scale feet wide or 1 5/16 inches. Scrape the
pieces with a hobby knife, scuff them with a sanding
block, cut the edges off of and add nail holes as you
feel appropriate. we’ve found that painting/staining
at this time is not a good idea because you’ll trim the
edges later.
7. Carefully cut the angled bolster pieces out and glue
them together in pairs. You will end up with four
pairs. Run the needle through the holes in the
bolsters again to ensure they are properly aligned.

You can do the same with the smaller square bolster
pieces, using one thick and one thin piece for each.
You will end up with two pieces.
thick
thin
8. Glue the side rails into place before the end pieces.
Ensure the side rails either fit snugly against the
decking or under it, depending on your decision for
overhang or not. The end pieces should fit snugly
against the side rails and the cut out on each end
should match up to allow for the coupler box to fit.
9. With the top side is up, glue down the stripwood as
shown. I covered both end pieces and side rails.
Ensure you leave a small gap between the pieces to
prevent buckling when you paint/stain it. IMHO it
looks better with spaces as well. A few not-so-
perfectly-aligned pieces add life to it.
10. When finished adding the decking, Flip the bottom
side up and flatten with a heavy object to prevent
warping during the drying process. Be sure not to
crush the side or end pieces. You may want to
consider clamping the corners to something solid
instead.
11. Once dry, glue the bolsters and queenpost(s) into
place and secure with clamps. The side pieces of the
bolsters are notched to fit the under decking of the
car. Ensure you use one of each thickness on the
bolster center pieces.
thick
thin
The 36-foot body has the option of two wooden
posts or two flat basswood pieces with plastic posts.
12. Included is the standard Westinghouse K-brake
system. I’m not that familiar with the system. If you
are, please enlighten us on the Facebook page. Glue
the brake reservoir (4), brake cylinder (3) and any
other desired details into place on the underside.
There are notches where they need to go.
3
3
3
4
13. Take the length of thread and put an overhand knot
in one end (I used three and a dab of CA at the first
bolster because the thread is thin) and gently thread
it through the bolsters and queenposts as shown
below. The wooden queensposts have notches for
the truss rods to pass over. Initially, concentrate on
just getting it threaded and then tighten it.
14. Once taut, apply a drop of CA to the thread at the
end of the threading to hold it in place. I hung the
whole assembly from my workbench with a small
clamp while it dries to keep tension on it. When it’s
dry, add the final knot (or several) as close to the
bolster as you can get it and cut the excess. A drop of
glue on each rod can be used to simulate
turnbuckles.
15. Trim the deck boards as desired. The under sides,
side rails and end pieces can be painted/stained and
lettered at this point, or you can choose to do so later
if you so choose. I did most of step 16 at this point.
BUILDING THE BODY
16. Brace the walls as shown below using 1/8-inch
stripwood. (X2) We recommend fitting the doors
snugly for proper alignment. The prototype model
did not have bracing in the cupola, but there is
stripwood included for this purpose should you so
desire to use it.
interior
Exterior
17. Glue the somewhat-triangular-shaped, roof-support
pieces to the front and aft pieces of the cupola, using
the guidelines. (See step 27)
18. Paint/stain the boxcar as desired. If you braced the
cupola, you can do it as well.

19. Paint the windows.
20. First, prepare the construction paper, which you will
use as a tarpaper roof. If you are unfamiliar with how
to do this, go to Jason Jensen Trains on Youtube and
look for episode 010. The width of the tarpaper
should be cut to 3/8 inch.
21. Cut and glue the 1/16 stripwood to the doors. I went
with one piece across the middle, but you may want
to make a “Z” or something else. Apply the hinges to
the top and door latch about mid-way on the left
side. There are several latches and hinges to choose
from.
22. Remove the roof supports from their carrier and
paint them. (Most likely brown) They are a group of
small rectangles. Do the same for the walkway.
Extras have been provided because many
repurposed themselves to places unknown during
the build of the original prototype. (That’s my story
and I’m sticking to it.)
23. Match (but do not glue yet) the end walls to the side
walls. (Side walls shown sideways for clarity). The
side wall tabs will fit in the notchs. Use a rubber band
to hold the four walls together.
24. Place the walls over the flat car so that the sides hang
over. Match up the top of the door slides with the
floor of the flat car as shown below. (prototype
photo)
25. Once in place, then glue along the inside corners
only. This ensures a proper fit on the corners. You
may also choose to glue the side walls to the floor. I
used a quick-drying CA, but that isn’t necessary.
26. Assemble the cupola essentially the same way as you
assembled the walls. Be sure to match the notches in
the corners. The roofline guides should face outward
(front and rear)
front
rear
side side
front rear
27. Glue the weights (not included) mentioned in step
1 into place.
28. If you did not brace the cupola, now would be a
good time to paint it.
29. Turn your attention to the roof. Bend along the two
scribed lines that parallel the walkway. This will add
rigidity while you’re painting the roof.
30. Paint the roof either a metal color or you could use
construction paper (not included) to add a tarpaper
roof. Or use stripwood (not included) to build your
own.
31. Install the cupola - This and the next step should be
done in quick order. Test fit the cupola and roof to
determine where it needs to go. The front should be
positioned so that the door goes between the two
side doors, but offset so the wall doesn’t block the
doors. Once that is accomplished, using a slow drying
glue, install the cupola.
32. Install the roof. Ensure all sides are glued down and
the cupola fits in the proper location.

33. Glue the cupola roof into place.
34. Apply the strips of tarpaper to the cupola roof from
outboard to inboard. The follow-on strips should
slightly overlap the more outboard strips, moving
towards the middle.
35. Glue the roof supports onto the Hs as shown below.
The rounded side should straddle the center. (Only
one shown for clarity.)
36. Size and glue down the 1/32 x 3/32 stripwood on the
roof supports lengthwise. They should slightly
overlap the ends of the boxcar. Don’t apply
stripwood to the ladder accesses just yet.
37. Glue down the roof supports for the ladder accesses
on the right forward and left aft sides of the roof.
(Only left aft shown)
38. Size and glue down the 1/32 x 3/32 stripwood on the
ladder accesses as shown in step 37.
39. Cut and install the ladder pieces as required. The
holes should match up with the ladders. The short
ladders on the left outside have an engraved top hole
to serve as a mark for where to cut the top of the
ladder.
40. Apply decals as below if you choose to do so.
C W R R
CAPY 80,000
LT WT 39,900
123
“Route of Pentaquod”
BLT 6-26
conowingo r.r.
41. Install the windows.
42. Install the bolts (NBWs), brake wheel(s) and ladders.
Either CA or white/wood glue seems to work equally
well. The bolts and ladders have cut holes where
their respective parts fit. We installed the brake
wheel as shown below. However, variations are
encouraged!
43. Install the coupler boxes. I recommend applying
some CA to the frame where the coupler boxes will
go, followed by appropriate screws (unfortunately,
the screws included with some kits are for the trucks
and are too long for this application).
44. Install the trucks using the screws and insulating
fiber washers (some kits). For those unfamiliar, the
washers go between the truck and bolster to
smoothen truck movement. Tichy Arch Bar trucks
(some kits) can now have the spring planks installed.
Despite the instructions, We’ve found that a dab of
CA helps keep the spring planks in place.
45. Apply any finishing touches and enjoy!
Many thanks to Mark Schreier, Jeff Grove, Steve Milley
and Greg Cassidy for their help with this endeavor.
Visit Conowingomodels.com for more model railroad
kits. Please post photos of your completed Conowingo
Models kits on our Facebook page.
Thank you for your purchase!