Contrast FUEGO TT10 User manual

OFF ROAD
INSTRUCTIONS AND ASSEMBLY HANDBOOK

INTRODUCTION
Esteemed friend, thank you for your purchase of the CONTRAST FUEGO Off Road. This product that
you are going to assemble is the result of many years of testing, study and development by a large team
of highly qualied people. The aim of CONTRAST FUEGO’s project is to offer you a high competition
car of large scale with more features and possibilities than the rest of the existing models and brands.
But we also wanted to create a simple car, easy to assemble and dismantle, resistant to bumps and to
wear and tear, with a high quality manufacturing and besides... it had to be light.
I believe we have achieved that complex aim with the car you have in your hands, and because of this
we hope that you enjoy assembling your CONTRAST FUEGO and get excite about pushing it to the
limit on the track.
CONTRAST is an open-minded brand and we wish to know our customer’s opinions, as well as the
proposals, criticisms, complaints and everything you want to communicate to us, without forgetting the
ideas you may have to make the car evolve. You can get into touch with us either by the postal address
below or through the specic section you will nd in our web site:
www.contrast-racing.com
Now you are part of the CONTRAST team
Yours sincerely
Daniel Fuertes
CONTRAST RACING S.L.
Avda. Catalunya54, bajos
17300 Blanes (Girona) Spain
[email protected]
You will nd more information and news about Contrast products on our webs site:
www.contrast-racing.com
WARNINGS:
• Before starting the assembly read carefully the rst pages of this handbook.
• Follow this handbook’s instructions through the assembly to get a proper assembly and a perfect
adjustment of all the pieces.
• Keep this handbook after the assembly as it may be a help at any moment.
• Contrast Fuego has been designed to be used on automodell off road tracks. Any use out of these
conditions may cause breaking or premature wear and tear of its mechanical pieces.
• Use original spares and replace worn pieces by the same reference number from the Contrast lis-
ting. The use of other brands may cause bad behaviour of the vehicle or even a breakdown.
• Contrast Racing S.L. does not take any responsibility for the use that may be given to this pro-
duct.
• No section of this handbook can be reproduced without a previous consent.
• Due to the continuous evolution of our products, it is possible that any image or explanation of this
handbook does not coincide exactly with the real pieces they refer to.

NECESSARY TOOLS
REQUIRED EQUIPMENT
For the right working of the Contrast Fuego you will need the following additional equipment, not included in the kit:
Two or three channel trans-
mitter with batteries, receiv-
er and frequency.
Two or three standard or big
size 1:5 servos
Battery pack for the radio,
system and servos’ working
Allen tools 1.5, 2, 2.5,
3, 4 y 5
plane tools 5.5, 7, 8,
10, 13, 17
Screwdriver,
philips type
Screwdriver plane cut pliers
Tip pliers Clips pliers Cutter Scissors Calibre
Plastic hammer grease and oils Soft screwlock Medium screwlock Alcohol or cleaners
Unleaded petrol mixed with
oil

THE SET-UP
Contrast Fuego is a car meant for competition, although because of its easiness of driving and its mechanical simplicity
it’s also very suitable for learner drivers or those who have no intention to compete.
Because of its “racing” concept, the Contrast Fuego has numerous adjustment possibilities. Next we will explain some
guidelines which will make the Contrast Fuego’s ne tuning easy on any track and situation.
TYRES
• This is one of the most important concepts in the large scale modality. The Contrast Fuego is able to use any brand
of tyres and even a combination of different brands in the rear and front axle.
• The offer of tyres is very broad as in brands as in drawings, shape and size of the wads, apart from the rubber’s
hardness. A good analysis of the track conditions and some of experience will help us to choose the best tyre for
each occasion.
• Faster speeds as well as longer life of the tyres will be achieved with softer tyres and a smoother drive as well as
gas.
• Because it is a rear traction car, it is very important to choose some front tyres that offer some of skidding and thus
to get a stable rear axle with a good grip. Narrower front tyres or with less wads are a good option.
BALLAST
• The contrast Fuego, once assembled and “ready to go”, weights 9’5 kilos. This allows it to incorporate a mobile
ballast system by means of two lodgings placed in two key points of the chassis.
• Putting the biggest weight in the rear lodging placed under the differential, we put the gravity centre behind and
add more weight on the rear axle. This raises this axle’s road holding increasing traction and stability on slippery
tracks or really cold days. In good road holding situations, this rear weight will take away agility from the car, which
will become very easy to drive but slow and sluggish.
• The central position, placed under the engine, is the best choice in normal conditions and tracks with a good grip,
because it offers a good commitment between steering easiness and stability in the rear axle.
• With the three types of ballast we offer you (one of them included in the kit) you can make combinations which will
allow you to create intermediate adjustments among the three positions previously mentioned.
CHASSIS
• Contrast Fuego’s chassis has got two possible points of connexion with the engine to use it as reinforcement,
gaining a chassis rigidity up to 100%.
• These four points are placed in the following way:
Point 1.- Rear right mount joined to the engine’s lid back section
Point 2.- Rear left mount joined to the engine’s left support.
• Of all these points, point 2 must always be strongly joined because it guarantees the needed distances and free
movement among the transmission gear.
• Point 1 can be joined at will to increase chassis rigidity, which will be particularly benecial in high grip tracks.
• You must take into account that the more rigid the chassis, the more important it is that there is a good adjustment
of the suspension in order to get the most of the car.
• The chassis of the Contrast Fuego presents a 12 degrees folding in its front area to improve the absortion of the
irregularities of the land, improve the landing when jumping and make driving easier.
• The chassis also has two very important folds on its sides in order to obtain a good compromise between rigidity
and exibility.

SUSPENSION GEOMETRY
• Together with tyres and ballast, the wheel suspension geometry is the third group of adjustments to take into
account for getting the optimum behaviour from the Contrast Fuego. We will order them from the most to the least
important: rear toe in, front Caster, front toe out, rear camber and front camber.
• Rear toe in regulates a great part of the rear axle’s stability. The more toe in the more tear grip. In the Contrast
Fuego this adjustment is ralted as well to the ballast position. The amount of toe in recommended in each tyre is
from 2,5º to 3º in high grasp conditions and from 3º to 5º in slippery tracks and/or cold days.
• Front caster regulates the amount of tyres surface that touches the ground when front wheels are turned, so it
controls the grasp of front axle when it turns. The bigger caster’s angle there is less area of rubber in contact with
the track and therefore the car turns less. Otherwise, a small angle of caster creates a very nervous and sensitive
steering which can desestabilize rear axle. This adjustment depends much on the track’s grasp, rear axle’s stability
and tyres used. The more stable the car’s rear axle is, the small angle of caster we can use, improving the steering
agility and speed on a bend. It is advisable to begin tests with a big angle of caster, and then decreasing it progre-
ssively as we need more steering. To use different adjustments of caster in the right side and in the left one can be
advisable at certain tracks to adapt the answer of the car’s steering to the different bend’s radious.
• Contrary to the back wheels, the front wheels require a certain toe out to create a stable and easy to drive car, with
this toe out we get a docile steering at a high speed and we make driving easy in fast bends at the same time we
improve the entry in slow bends. An excess of toe out means a big braking in a straight and it increases the front
tyres wear and tear. The right adjustment is between 1.5º and 3º in each front wheel.
• The camber’s adjustments, as the front one as the rear one, aim to give the needed inclination to the wheel for the
most possible tyre’s area to be in contact with the ground inside a whole bend and with all existent inclinations and
exions. In the front axle, caster uses to be 0º with the possibility of using 3º, positives or negatives depending on
the agility we are looking for in the front axle. In the rear axle camber is a bit more important, overall because it also
affects to the car’s traction capacity. Depending on the track and the atmosphere temperature, the rear camber’s
adjustments vary between -1º and -5º.
SUSPENSIONS
• Contrast Fuego’s low weight also affects to the damper spring and oils, because it allows using softer adjustments
which improve traction and grasp in low road-holding conditions.
• In Contrast’s options catalogue there are different springs and silicon oils with progressive hardness which will
allow you to adjust the hardness of the suspensions according to your preferences, and in the website’s “SET UPS”
sections we propose to you the combinations sequences used by our best ofcial drivers.
• Our damper springs have been specially designed to wheel with the car at a very short distance from the ground,
keeping a soft answer during the rst millimetres of run, increasing endurance quickly during the following milimeters
of run to avoid the car touches the ground without the need for using bumpers or suspension limiters.
• Always use Contrast high quality silicone oils for the suspensions. Low quality oil looses density quickly when its
temperature is increased by the work made and it makes the car’s behaviour really worse.
• Remember that a suspension’s hydraulics is always related to a certain tension of spring, therefore if you make a
drastic change of hardness on springs, you will have to vary the hydraulics’ density as well.

ENGINE AND CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENT
• Now we propose you a basic adjustment system as a starting point, and after that another system to adjust it in a
more detailed and suitable way for competition.
• With the engine turned off, close to the maximum the low screw (L) and from that point open it a whole round more
about thirty minutes, approximately 1 turn plus 1/2 turn.
• Do exactly the same thing with the high screw (H) and open it a whole round more about thirty-ve minutes.
• Start the engine and then give it some soft gas blows when it has been stabilized, adjust the idle screw.
• This adjustment will allow you to start to wheel with a very good performance. Then and with the engine still warm
you will must nish to rene it doing some movements in the carburettor’s screw ( L, H and idle) in steps of ve
minutes and controlling carburetion looking at the colours of the spurk plug’s inside.
• In a big scale Zenoah engine, the colour taken by the spark plug’s central ellectrode’s ceramic indicates us the
adjustment at high r.p.m. whereas the colour of the metallic ring which covers it and where the spurk plug is screwed
in shows us adjustment at low r.p.m. In this way when your observe the spark plug after wheeling some turns we’ll
know exactly how the engine is carburetting all is range of revolutions.
• Central ceramic is able to show a range of colours form bright black or wet one with coal dust grains which means
very greasy, to a dry and matt greyish white, which means dangerously short. The desirable colours are:
-A matt and plain black (without coal dust) lightly cleared up which shows a tight but greasy adjustment, ideal
for training and little important qualifying rounds.
-A white coffee-like brown which shows an ideal high carburetion. The engine won’t miss us and will yield end
to end as many minutes as we wish. Ideal for a nal or sub nal with hot weather.
-A dark white or beige colour. The engine is giving all its potential very near its limit. If the atmosphere rises up
in temperature it might stay short. Ideal for important classicatory heats lasting ten minutes or nals with cold
weather.
• If instead of a beige colour the ceramic becomes greyish or dirty white, take immediately a screwdriver and open
the hi adjust an eight of a round or a bit more (between ve and ten minutes if it were a clock) since the engine is
warning you it’s going to heat up excessively any minute now.
• The metallic ring, which indicates low r.p.m. adjustment, can show itself.
-Wet black with much coal dust, which indicates us a adjustment too greasy in low r.p.m..
-Bright black without coal dust or with just a little in some area of the ring; it shows us an ideal low adjustment.
It will keep the engine greased allowing us to adjust high adjust to the maximum.
-Matt black without coal dust and clearing up, it indicates us the engine goes a bit short low adjust; if we rene
it very much hi adjust we are going to have problems in a few rounds.
-Dry dark brown or the ring’s metallic colour. Engine excessively dry, temperature problems and strange reac-
tions or too lively at low r.p.m.
• For these readings of the spark plug to be totally truthful avoid the car to be too much time to idle before turning it
off since the spark plug colours might vary.
• Use competition high quality oil for the mixture, like Contrast oil which has been specially developed for the condi-
tions and high performance features of the tuned engines.
• The high revolutions per minute Zenoah engine reaches require the use of oil which resists more than 20000 rpm
without faint. The use of non-adequate oils, although being from renamed branches, may increases in a considera-
ble way the wear and tear of the piston, the cylinder, of the seals and of the crankshaft bearings.
• Work with amount of oil will between 2,5% and 3,5%. This diminish the engine’s temperature and will improve the
sealed between the piston and cylinder.
• Use petrol mixed with oil recently. A mixture stored for some weeks may loose its lubricant properties or vary the
% of mixture.
• Zenoah engine requires some running when it’s used for the rst time, at least during the rst half an hour of wor-
king. This means a soft and careful driving with a little greasy carburetion.
• Watch over the state of the exhaust’s inside. A dirty exhaust with an excess of dust coal can make the engine’s
answer worse.
• Watch over the state of the air lter. A dirty lter with an excess of dust coal can be very dangerous for the engine
life.
• For the maintenance and revision of the engine, consult the Zenoah instructions handbook indications included in
the kit.

BRAKES
Now we expose you some tips which can be very useful to get a races braking, powerful and secure:
• The most difcult and important of brakes is to nd a good relationship between the front one and the rear one. To
balance the two axle’s brakes, start with a ratio of approximate 60% at the front and 40% at the rear, testing it stop-
ped with your hands. Brake with strength at the track while you start to trace a bend, if the car goes straight, slaken
the front brake or tighten the rear one, if the car tends to cross, slaken the rear one or tighten the front one. If the car
follows its line entering the bend with the brake pressed, you have gained the suitable balance. Once the brake is
balanced, the total brake power is regulated from the radio transmiter, limiting or extending the servo’s movement.
• With much brake at the front and little at the rear front wheels are blocked, the car slips, it brakes a bit and it doesn’t
turn. When braking in a bend having the wheels turned, the car goes straight recovering again its trace sharply when
stopping braking.
• With little brakes at the front and much at the rear, when braking the car crosses skidding from the back it becomes
impossible to control and it will end up doing a 180 degree turn.
• With balanced brakes, braking is stable, powerful and the car keeps its trace even inside a bend.
• Avoid always the blocking of the wheels, a blocked wheel due to braking excess brakes less.
• Braking power depends mostly on the front tyre’s adherence. A soft tyre offers a powerful braking, whereas a hard
tyre is blocked up easily giving as a result a longer and more imprecise braking.
• The brakes must be slightly re-adjustable after a change of tyres. If you change the model of tyres without re-ad-
justing the brake, an excess of braking or a rear/ front unbalance may appear.
• Most of braking power is got thanks to rear brake. For a race braking the rear brake must be adjusted the most
powerful possible without reaching to neither loose adherence nor stability. The more grasp the track has got, the
more amount of rear brake we’ll be able to apply. Although we can almost reach a front/rear 50/50% proportion just
in exceptional grasp tracks.
• Revise periodically discs and shoes. The important thing about discs is that they must be perfectly at since discs
that are slightly bent make braking very irregular which is blocked very easily. The brake shoes must be at as well
without excessive tear marks and without crystallizing. It’s a good idea to sandpaper them periodically with very ne
sandpaper put on a table for them to stay plain again and to eliminate rubber and grease remains. Meanwhile a little
shower with Contrast cleaner spray fro time to time will maintain them clean of rubber and dust.

(2x) M3x10
(2x) M5x5
Clip D6
(2x) M5x5
M5x16
M4x14
(2x) M4x12
(2x) M4x10
Nut M8
selock
M4x16
(2x) M3x14
The right and left front uprights are iden-
tical and interchangeable.
The front wheel cube have a size of
12,5 mm
The right and left rear uprights are identical
and interchangeable.
The upper arm also are identical and inter-
changeable.
Secure the screws without head of the
wheel cube with a hard screwlocker.
The rear wheel cube is made in steel and
have a size of 12,5 mm
The servosaver is a really very important
piece in a TT car. This servosaver is ad-
justable in hardness with the wingnut that
presses the lower spring.
Try different types of servosaver hard-
ness. An excess of tension may make the
servo suffer, whereas a weak servosaver
gives a weak and imprecise direction.
ASSEMBLY HANDBOOK
CONSIDERATIONS TO TAKE INTO ACCOUNT
1) To apply screwlock of medium-hard hardness to all the screws and nuts without autolock is
recommended for avoiding breakdowns and disadjustments.
2) The screws which x the transmission gears must be secured with hard screwlocker.
STEP 1
FRONT UPRIGHT
STEP 3
SERVO SAVER
STEP 2
REAR UPRIGHT
Use this bush only
in the lower hole
of the upright

(2x) M5x20
Thin head
(2x) M5x20
Thin head
(2x) M4x16
(2x) M4x20
(2x) M8x30
(4x) M3x4
(8x) M4x4 (2x) M4x20
(2x) M4
(2x) M4
(2x) M4x20
(2x) M4x10
(2x) M4
selock nut
(4x) M4x12
(4x) M3x6
Pay special attention to the
screws that x the uprights to
the arms. Use a hard screw-
locker.
Adjust the lower aluminium rod-ends and upper plastic
aluminium rod-ends inclination to the upright inclination
so that they work in a totally perpendicular way.
Verify that the movement of the wishbones before
assembling the shock absorbers is a soft one in its
entire course with no frictions or hard points.
STEP 4
FRONT AXLE

(4x) M5x12
(3x) M4x20
(5x) M4x12
(2x) M5x12
(2x) M4x12
Ballast
(4x) M4x12
(2x) M4x12
(5x) M5x12
(4x) M5x10
(9x) M4x10
Round head
(7x) M4x8
Round head
(3x) M4
selock
(2x) M4x10
Round head
(3x) wide
washer D4
(2x) M4x10
Round head
(2x) M3x12
conic screw
(4x) M5x8 on the extremes
STEP 5
CHASSIS
Apply medium-hard screwlocker to the
screws of the chassis that lock the main
supports of the car.
In the lower lexan guards, cut with some scis-
sors the remaining part from the rear part that
may disturb the movement of the rear wheel.
(2x) nut M4
selock
(7x) wide
washer D4

(2x) M5x14
Thin head
(4x) M4x25
(4x) M5x12
(4x) Washer M3
(4x) nut M4
selock
(2x) M4x20
(4x) M5
selock
(2x) M4
selock
(2x) M4x20
(2x) M4
(2x) M3x4
(2x) M4x10
(2x) M3x6
(4x) M3x6
(2x) M4x30
without head
(4x) M5x16
Thin head
STEP 6
REAR AXLE
Pay special attention to the
screws that x the uprights to the
arms. Use a hard screwlocker.
Verify that the movement of the wishbones before
assembling the shock absorbers is a soft one in its
entire course with no frictions or hard points.

STEP 7
WING SUPPORT
(4x) M4x30
(2x) M4x16 (2x) M4x12
(2x) M4x12
(2x) M4x20
(4x) M4x12
(2x) M4
(2x) M4
Selock
(2x) M4x12
STEP 8
DIFFERENTIAL
(4x) M4x12
(2x) M4x6
(4x) M4x8
(2x) D4
(2x) D4
(2x) D4
Fill the differential with the white
grease included. Increase the
amount if you wish a bigger au-
tolock effect.
You can ll the differential with-
out disassembling it, applying the
grease with a syringe from the lat-
eral entry of a dog bone.
Apply medium-hard screwlocker
in all the screws of the differential
and the transmission gear.
STANDAR DIFFERENTIAL
HYBRID DIFFERENTIAL

(2x) M3x20 (2x) M5x5
(2x) M3x10
(2x) M3
Selock
(1x) M4x12
(3x) M5x16
(4x) M4x8
(1x) M3x6
(2x) M5x5
(3x) M5x40
(2x) M5x5
STEP 9
TRANSMISSION
When assembling the 11 teeth gear,
leave a small hole of less than a mil-
limetre so that the axle has a soft axial
movement. In this way, you will man-
age to achieve the transmission tem-
perature and make the life of bearings
longer.
Apply medium-hard screwlocker in all
the screws of the transmission, espe-
cially to the screws without head that x
the gears to their axles.

STEP10
CLUTCH
(1x) M6x20
(1x) M3x10
(1x) M3x8
150202/7 Set Black Power shoes (included in the kit)
150202/8 Set Red Power shoes (optional)
150202/55 Soft spring 2.8 mm (included in the kit)
150202/66 Hard spring 2.9 mm (optional)
STEP 11
BRAKE CYLINDER
When assembling the O-rings in
the piston and assembling the pis-
ton to the cylinder, smear every-
thing with soft grease; this will im-
prove the bomb softness and will
make the life of the joints longer.
File with a small le or sandpaper
all the turn points of the arm, the
intermediate connecting rod and
the piston in order to improve he
softness of the working.
TO GET A HIGH FRONT BREAK
POWER, CONTRAST SUGGEST
YOU TO USE A SERVO WITH
MORE OF 18 KG
(2x) M4x8

(4x) M3x14
(4x) M3x20
(4x) M3
STEP 12
BRAKE CALLIPERS
When assembling the O-rings in
the piston and assembling the pis-
ton to the cylinder, smear every-
thing with soft grease; this will im-
prove the calliper softness and will
make the life of the joints longer.
Acting on the outside screws
M3x16 adjust the brake shoes the
maximum allowed to the disc, not
being braked. This will give you a
very fast and powerful attack of the
shoes.

STEP 13
SHOCKS
150120/101
160123/071
160121/011
160121/191 O-ring 20x1
160121/201 O-ring 16x1,5
160123/061 O-ring 5x2,5
160123/061 O-ring 5x2,5 160123/081
160121/051
160121/111
160121/131
150120/101
Cut the excess of size
160121/032 foam valve
160122/04 Long body - Rear TT09 and TT10
160122/091 Long shaft - Rear TT09 and TT10
160122/141 Only for long shock body
160123/04 Medium body - Front TT10
160123/091 Medium shaft - Front TT10
160121/04 Short body - Front TT09
160121/091 Short shaft - Front TT09
160121/151 O-ring 22x1,5
160121/141
Nut M4
Washer D4
Plastic washer D5
160121/031
160123/17
To insert two shim washers of 0,2 mm to get the best
pressure of the O-rings

STEP 14
CHASSIS
If you are assmbling the “update kit” on a
old chassis from Fuego ‘08 or ‘09, must
to do some modications on the chassis
to improve the suspensions run.
On the next draw you can see on red
colour the areas to cut on the old chas-
sis to update it at TT10 version.
Contrast offer you a special Update kit
that include the new chassis TT10 with
all the applied changes.

PART NUMBERS
160065
160066
151008
150064
150080
160082
160077
150051
150067
150067
150068
160100
150056
160009
150010
150011
150051
150052
160069
160067
160068
150236/2
150236/1
151079
151065/2
151064/2
160079
160082
160078
160237
160237/2
160102
160022
160021
160022/2
160001/2
160003
150300
160025
160025
160023
160024
150153
150154
150152
160155
150066 150069
150069
150236/1
160216
150222/05
150094
150222 Kit Differential

www.contrast-racing.com
160257/1
150206
160257/2
160019
150204/3
160214
160218
160204
150267/61
150269
160220
160211/1 - 42d
160212/1 - 43d
160213/1 - 44d
160208/2 - 19d
160209/2 - 20d
160210/2 - 21d
150202/1
150267/21
150267/31 150267/91
150267/91
150267/1
150264
150268 Set steel disks
150269 Set epoxy-carbon disks
150267/81 Set synthetic shoes for steel disks
150267/71 Set steel shoes for epoxy-carbon disks
150202/7
150202/2
150275/1 150263
150275/51
150275/71
150260/91
150275/3
150260/31
150260/41
150202/3
150202/55
150275 Kit Master cylinder 10mm
150267 Kit brake calliper