Crc Xti-wc User manual

Assembly Manual

1/12th scale road race car kit

3254 - 2-56 Button Head

40194 - Hard Anodized

Alum Pivot ball

12772 -

4-40 Thin

Hex Nut

1430 -

1/2” x 4-40

FH Allen-SS

1209 - Washer

*Note - Sometimes it is helpful to over-tighten the top clamp screws,

then work the ball around by hand, and then loosen the screws so the ball

floats around very free. Do not over-tighten the screws too much or you

could warp the pivot socket.

slightly

1412 - Red Locknut

Bag 1

Center Pivot

3374 - Center Pivot Socket

Bag 1

Center Pivot

3357 - Xti-WC

Chassis Plate

3374

3357

1426 - 4-40 x

5/16” Flat Head 1430 - 4-40 x ½”

Flat Head One-Piece

Side Links

13615 -

Red Low-

Profile Ball

*NOTE - Before installing, inspect the side links

and you will notice that the screw holes on one

side of the link are larger than the holes on the

other side. Before popping the links on the balls,

be sure that the larger hole faces toward the

outside of the chassis.

Slide the 2-56 button head screws through the

large holes in the outside of the side links, and

then thread them into the small inner holes as

shown in the illustration. Do not tighten these

screws down all the way. Put just enough

tension on them so that there is no play in the

links, but so they pivot freely on the balls. The

car will NOT handle properly if the links are too

tight on the balls!

1 - Be sure the 2 aluminum locknuts on top of the center pivot are slightly loose.

There should be a washer under each alum locknut. Notice that the center pivot

“floats" or moves slightly on the 2 screws. This "floating" allows the links

to "free up". This ensures that the rear pod plate pivots freely on the links

and center pivot ball. This is a crucial step when setting up the Xti.

2 - Snap the 2 links on the balls (done in previous step). They should rock freely on

the pivot balls.

3 - Place the chassis / rear bottom plate assembly on a flat surface. No tires and

no diff on the car! A smooth table or desk should do. Be

sure that the rear bottom plate and chassis are in a

straight line, flat against the table, again, no tires on the

car. Lightly “tap” the chassis and rear pod releasing any

tension in the links. Keep the chassis flat on the table for step 4.

4 - Hold the chassis at the hold point “H” by pressing

the chassis down to the table. Slowly tighten the 2 locknuts that

secure the center pivot assembly. For now, just lightly

snug one side then the other.

5 - Pick up the car and check the pivoting action of

rear lower plate. Rotate the rear plate from side-to-

side. It should move free without binding or "clicking".

If it does not, loosen the pivot locknuts and repeat steps 3+4.

If it rotates smoothly, tighten the locknuts on the center pivot more

securely. Do this by again holding the chassis down to the table at the

hold point “H”. Slowly and carefully, fully tighten the locknuts that hold the center pivot

assembly to the chassis. The handling of the Xti hinges (pun intended!) on the

free movement of this rear plate. Be sure that the rear links and rear plate are free and not binding.

(not the rear pod)

Setting the One-piece links

3254 - 2-56 Button Head 3281 -

1412 - Red Locknut

Bag 2

3224 - Rear Bottom Plate

3224

Rotate

Center

Pivot

3281

33401 - Motor Plate

3375 - Graphite X-brace

1424 - 4-40 x 1/4”

Flat Head

33421 - Left Side Pod Plate

Bag 3

Slider Pod

33411 - Slider Bearing Carrier

33401

33421

3375

1436 - 4-40 x 3/8”

Button Head

13615 -

Red Low-

Profile Ball

Bag 4

Tweak Plate

32113 - Tweak Plate

32113

1435 - 4-40 x 7/16”

Button Head

33411

3288 - 4-40 x 3/8”

set screw

3387 - Molded Plastic

Spring Holder

Thread the set screw

in until flush with the

bottom of the holder.

1793 - Pro Tapered

Springs .50mm

3375 - Molded ½”

Standoffs (4)

3375

Make sure spring coil

is seated into groove

on spring holder.

1424 - 4-40 x 1/4”

Flat Head

Bag 4

Top Plate 1434 - 4-40 x 1/4”

Button Head

3225 - Xti Altered Ego

Rear Top Plate

3225

1409 - Red Alum

4-40 Ballstud 1412 - Red Locknut

1397 - 2-56 set-

screw stud

1384 - 2-56 Steel Ballstud

& Plastic Ball Cup 13694 - Short 4-40 Plastic

Ball Cup (on tree)

13695 - .035”

Allen Driver

32693 - Delrin Plunger 32691 - Aluminum Tube

.125 "

.188 "

1288 - 4-40 x 5/16”

set screw

** Adding the Damper Tubes to the Chassis assembly **

Snap the assembled & lubed damper tubes on the respective points as

shown in the diagram to the right. You will find it easier to snap on the

centered, smaller 2-56 ball studs first, then pop the outer, larger 4-40 ballcups

CRC

Tube

Lube

5 - Add CRC Tube Lube to each slot on the delrin plunger.

*** : fill only the slots, not the entire aluminum tube. ***Note

Bag 5

Damper Tubes

4505

4510

4520

4530

Bag 6

Battery Mount 1424 - 4-40 x 1/4”

Flat Head 3373 - Plastic Battery Position Pieces

1261 - Battery Retention O-ring

Bag 7

Center Shock 1409 - Red Alum

4-40 Ballstud

1347 - Fiberglass Anti-Roll Antenna

13783 - 4-40 x 1/8”

Set Screw

1428 - 4-40 x

3/8” FH

3373

1347

3354 - CRC Shock/Ant Mount

3354

1 - Thread the spring adjuster nut onto the shock body as shown. *This needs to be installed first or you will not be able to get it on later after the lower endof

the shock is assembled!*

2 - Insert only 1 of the small o-rings into the lower end of the shock body. Next, install the bottom shock plug and tighten the bottom shock cap.

3 - Insert 1 of the small e-clips into the lower groove of the shock shaft. Slide the piston over the shaft until it stops against the e-clip and then secure it in place

with the other e-clip in the end groove.

4 - Put a small dab of the included shock oil on the threads of the shock shaft to lube it and then slide the shock shaft through the bottom end of the shock

carefully so you do not damage the o-ring with the threads on the shock shaft. Pull the shaft all the way through until the piston bottoms out in the shock body.

5 - Wipe off any excess oil from the threads of the shock shaft and then thread on the shorter of the 2 included ballcups. *If you need to hold the shaft with pliers,

be sure to wrap a rag around the shaft first so the pliers do not damage the shaft. If there is any damage to the shaft, the sharp edges will damage the o-ring and

cause the shock to leak.

6 - Now with the shaft still fully extended, hold the shock body upright and fill with the included shock oil. Press the shaft in about half way and then return it to

full extension. Look inside the shock and you will notice small air bubbles in the oil. This is the rest of the air that was trapped below the piston. Allow enough

time for the air bubbles to work their way to the surface and pop.

7 - Once satisfied that all of the air is out of the shock, top off with oil and then insert the shock bladder by laying one side into the oil and then rolling your finger

across the top of the bladder to expel any excess air and/or oil.

8 - Insert the flanged ballcup into the upper shock cap and then tighten this down over the shock bladder, being careful to not knock the bladder off its seat and

allowing air to enter the shock. *Double check that the shock is working smoothly through its range of motion and that you can fully compress the shock. Ifit

binds up before being fully compressed, then it has too much oil and you will need to crack the top cap loose and expel a very small amount of oil and re-tighten.

9 - Slide the shock spring over the shock body and keep in place by clicking the spring retainer over the shock shaft and sliding it down over the short ballcup to

keep it in place.

2.1

2.3

2.2

3.1

3.2

(Lower groove)

(End groove)

CRC Encore Shock

Bag 7

Center Shock

3290 -

8.1

8.2

9.2

9.1

3291 - Encore Shock-Body + alum parts

3292 - Encore Shock Shaft - Hardened

3293 - Encore Shock Plastic Parts

3294 - Encore Shock E-clips (10)

3295 - Encore Shock Rubber Parts

3296 - Encore Shaft Adapter, 4-40 ballcup (option)

Encore Shock Parts List:

3242 - 2-56 x ½” SH

3246 - Delrin

Pivot Ball

CRC Pro-Strut

Front End

3242 & 1472 -

2-56 Red Locknut

1 - Pop the delrin pivot ball into the lower arm. Place the arm on a strong table and push the ball in

with the back of screwdriver handle. Or preferably, you can use CRC’s 4279 Ball popper pivot ball

tool. Notice the “lip” of the delrin pivot ball is pointing upward. The diagram to the left represents a

right side lower arm. For the left side, flip the second arm over and be sure the pivot ball is installed

with the lip again facing up.

2 - Once the ball is popped in, insert the black 2-56 clamp screw through the horizontal hole in the

lower arm. Thread the 2-56 red locknut onto the black screw. Tighten the screw slowly continuously

checking the pivot ball. When it begins to bind a bit, back the 2-56 screw off a bit. The ball should

be free to pivot with just a bit of drag. There is no need to have this ball super loose and free, a

slight drag will be just the right amount of clamping force.

Check this fit after a few runs as the ball will wear and require additional clamping force.

Lip

1 - Install the upper A-arm mount with the amount of Dynamic Caster desired. The options are 0, 5 and 10

degrees. The part shown to the right in the diagram is the 0 degree version, however it is most common to use

5 or 10 degree blocks for road racing. The 5 and 10 will angle down more toward the front of the car. The

general thought is the more Dynamic Caster, the more steering the car will have at corner entry. We

recommend starting with the 5 degree unit.

2 - Push the 4-40 x 3/8” screw through the lower arm and then thread the screw into the upper A-arm mount.

Be sure NOT to over tighten. Just snug, you are threading a metal screw into the plastic upper A-arm mount.

*Note - For fine front ride height adjustments, use the CRC #4260 optional front shim set. This set contains

.020 and .030” plastic ride height shims.

Bag F

3247

1 - Break the mold tree from the upper A-arm. You can clean up the mold

gates with a hobby knife or rotary tool.

2 - Locate the upper arm hinge pin and slide it into one half of the upper

arm. Locate 3 small caster shims. Push the hinge pin through the 3 shims.

Then continue to push the hinge pin all the way into the upper arm.

3 - Now, install the arm/pin/washer assembly onto the upper arm mount. Put

the hinge pin in the channel. At this point you can set your starting caster

setting by moving these washers forward and back. The position shown to

the left will result in a competitive handling. Moving them to the rear will

increase steering from the center and exit of the corner.

If the fit of the upper arm is tight, trim the upper arm mount SLIGHTLY with a

hobby knife.

4 - Install the upper cap with 4 black 2-56 button head screws. The topper is

the “clamp” for the hinge pin. Be sure to tighten so that any gap is gone,

however, do not tighten beyond that point as damage can occur to the upper

a-arm mount holes.

3245 - Hinge Pin

1253 - Caster Shim 3243 & 3230 -

Upper Cap

3247

3243

3254 - 2-56 Button Head

3247 - CRC Front Arm set

3243 - Upper Arm mnt set-0,5,10

4-40 x 3/8”

Flat Head

3250 -

King Pin

3234 - Brass

Set Screw

1382 -

E-Clip

CRC Pro-Strut

Front End - cont.

3244 - Upper

Pivot Ball

1236 - Steel Stub Axle

1 - Take the upper pivot ball and push it through the steering block and thread

into the upper arm. Thread it in so there are no threads showing.

2 - Take the slotted capture insert and thread it into the steering block. THIS

IS A BIT TRICKY .... as the insert must be fitted at a down angle as shown to

the left. DO NOT try to insert it horizontally into the steering block. It is

actually threaded in at a down angle toward the center of the car.

3 - Tighten this capture insert so that the steering movement is bound and

slow. Yes, we are actually slightly over tightening this piece FOR NOW. With

the steering movement bound from over tightening, move the steering to it’s

limits, back and forth. What we are doing is “breaking in” the upper

ball/capture insert. After a minute or so of break in, loosen the insert just

enough so the steering is free. Not too much or you will induce excessive free

play.

1434 - 4-40 x 1/4”

Button Head

13615 -

Red Low-

Profile Ball

3221

3392

3221

1236

3221 - Steering Block Set

3392 - .50mm

Front Spring

1412 - Red Locknut

1 - Build up the left and right steering blocks as shown to the left. Start by threading the 1/4” button head screw

through the steering arm of the block and into the red low profile ball.

2 - Then, slide the steel stub axle into the steering block as shown, and secure it in place using the red 4-40

locknut.

1 - Locate the e-clip and snap it into the groove of the King Pin. Slide the Front

End Spring down over the threaded end of the King Pin until it rests against the

e-clip.

2 - Using either the included Allen key, or your own .050” hex wrench, slide the

King Pin/spring/e-clip assembly through the lower arm pivot ball, & then thread it

into the steering block. Thread it in until the front spring just touches the lower

arm pivot ball. You do not want any preload on this spring, but you don’t want

play either. Only run the king pin in until the spring just touches the ball.

3 - Once happy with the king pin/spring preload position, lock the king pin with

the 4-40 brass set screw through the hole in the side of the steering block.

3376

3355

1231

1317

CRC Pro-Strut

Front End - cont.

3358 - CK Xti-WC

Front End Plate

1231 - Short Ballcups

1317 - 42mm Turnbuckles

3358

1428 - 4-40 x

3/8” FH

1412 - Red Locknut

4260 +

4261 (new)

(optional)

3218 - Thin Ride Height

Spacers -Xti

1439

Aluminum

Spacers (6x).

Only use for

larger tires.

1 - Use the large 8-32 screws to mount the front suspension assembly

to the graphite front end plate. Make sure that you have the notched

side of the front end plate to the left side of the car, and the smooth

side to the right. Push the bumps on the bottom of the lower

suspension arm into the holes on the front end plate. Tighten both

screws firmly, but be careful not to strip the threads in the arm.

2 - Insert the 4-40 x 3/8” flat head screws through the chassis, and then

through one of the included aluminum ride height spacers, and then

through the Graphite Front End Plate.

The Xti-WC is designed for all out performance on high bite tracks.

Typically, the front tire size used in these conditions range from 39

the aluminum spacers

and adjust ride height only with the optional 4260/1 plastic shims

between the lower arms and front end plate.

The 4-40 x 3/8” screws will slide through 2 of the holes of the front end

plate and thread into the others. This is to “lock-in” the front end plate

and keep it from shifting around on the chassis in the event of a crash.

do not use

The drawing to the left shows the aluminum spacers being used. This

would be to adjust the front ride height of the car for “larger” (+42 mm)

foam tires used in club or sport racing. Thicker or stacked washers can

also be used to allow even larger front tires.

-42

mm. When using tires in this range,

1439 - 8-32 x 3/8”

Steel BH

Servo Spline Remove this side! Trimming completed

13615 -

Red Low-

Profile Ball

3355 - Alum Vertical

Mount Set-Red

1436 - 4-40 x 3/8”

Button Head

1426 - 4-40 x

5/16” Flat Head

3376 - Molded Servo Saver Brace

Airtronics/Sanwa

94761 or SRGHR

JR 3650, 3717HV,

Spektrum 5030/5040

This screw included

with your servo,

not the Xti kit.

1.1”

4201 - Diff Ring 1387 - 1/4” x 3/8”

Plain Bearing Lip

4121 - Diff Spacer 4123 -

Spring Washer 4126 -

Nylon Diff Nut

4732 - 1/4” Shim

1-INSTALL AND GREASE THE DIFF BALLS

Place the spur gear flat on the table in front of you with the side that says “CRC”

facing down. The diff balls will fall into each of the outer ring of holes in the diff

gear, but won’t fall out the other side. Place a small dab of silicone diff grease on

each ball to lube the ball and prevent the balls from falling back out of the holes

during assembly. Use very little!

*(Holding the car on it’s side, with the rear axle pointing upright will ease assembly

of the diff.) Place 1 diff ring, and then a 1/4” x 3/8” plain bearing over the end of

the axle. Align the diff ring so that it notches into the axle flange. Place the

assembled gear with the greased diff balls over the axle and push it down over the

plain bearing. Next, insert the other plain bearing into the back of the diff hub.

Then, align the second diff ring with the notch on the back of the diff hub. *(place a

small dab of the diff grease on the hub first to hold the ring in place.)* Now, slide

the hub, bearing, & diff ring down over the axle. Next, slide a flanged bearing over

the axle and into the front of the diff hub.

2-DIFF ASSEMBLY

Small lip

toward bearing

** Balls in outer ring of holes in gear **

1386 - 1/4” x 3/8”

Flanged Bearing

DIFF ASSEMBLY -CONTINUED...

The diff spacer has a small machined lip on one

side, point that lip toward the bearing. Now,

place the spring washer so that the cone points

away from the gear. The outside of the washer

should be against the diff spacer, and the inside

of the washer should be against the diff nut,

which now goes on last. *Be sure the 2 “D” rings

have settled into their notches. Just snug the nut

so the parts stay together on the diff axle.

DON’T over-tighten so the outer diff hub bearing

gets crushed! Correct diff tension needs to be

set with tires on the car.

3 - Setting the Diff

Once the tires are on: Adjust the diff nut so that the tires spin back and forth freely when holding the

spur gear, but it is very difficult to slip the spur gear with your thumb when holding both tires. Again -

DON’T over-tighten so the outer diff hub bearing gets crushed! Re-check diff tension after the first run.

Bag 8

Differential Axle

Bag 9

Differential

1528

3333

4720 - Axle Spacer-

Xti-2 + 5mm

64172

64180

64188

64196

1228

4227

1528 - Large D-ring

Axle - 4mm stud

3333 - Left Clamp Hub

4227 - Diff Hub

1228 - 3/32 Diff Balls

5mm

2mm

1460 - 4-40 x 5/16”

Red Socket Cap

1528

13783 - 4-40 x 1/8”

Set Screw

1378

1 - Use the 4-40 x 5/16” red cap head screws to bolt the rear

wheels to the hubs.

2 - Insert the flanged bearings into the front wheels. Slide the

front wheel onto the axle, & secure with a red locknut. The

front wheels should spin very free. Do not over-tighten the

front wheel nuts so that the bearings are pinched.

(Tires not included)

Thank you for choosing Calandra Racing Concepts and the Xti-WC race car. If you have any questions or concerns about any CRC product, feel free to call or

e-mail the staff at CRC for assistance. All of our in-house staff at CRC are experts in building, setup, driving and racing R/C model cars. Your new Xti-WC was

handled by experienced racers from the moment of design right through the completion of the kit. We utilize our top driving professionals around the world as

well as feedback from local racers at the CRC test track to build you the most complete and competitive product possible. Our team travels to major events