DG Airparts Super XC User manual

Super XC
Instruction Manual
Version 1.0
READ THIS MANUAL FIRST!
and
DG Airparts, Inc.
present the

Introduction
Super XC
Page 2
Table of Contents
Introduction……………………………………………………………………………………………………….
Specifications……………………………………………………………………………………………………..
Disclaimer…………………………………………………………………………………………………………
Parts List…………………………………………………………………………………………………………..
Construction
Wing Part I………………………………………………………………………………………………
Wing Mount……………………………………………………………………………………………..
Stabilator…...……………………………………………………………………………………………
Fuselage Part I…………….……………………………………………………………………………..
Rudder…………………………………………………………………………………………………...
Wing Part II……………………………………………………………………………………………...
Fuselage Part II………………………………………………………………………………………….
Setup………………………………………………………………………………………………………………
Conclusion………………………………………………………………………………………………………..
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Congratulations! You now own what we believe to the best and most complete high performance cross country
sailplane kit available anywhere today. The Super XC is a high performance cross country sailplane using the lat-
est RnR products molding technologies. The Super XC incorporates full-span camber-changing flaps and ailerons,
which provide a maximum speed range from coring the tightest thermals to outrunning the competition. The Super
XC utilizes the S2048 F3B airfoil section for an outstanding L/D ratio.
Disclaimer
UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHALL RnR PRODUCTS BE HELD LIABLE FOR INCIDENTAL, CONSE-
QUENTIAL, OR OTHER DAMAGES, ALLEGED NEGLIGENCE, BREACH OF WARANTEE, STRICT LI-
ABILITY, TORT, CONTRACT, OR ANY OTHER LEGAL THEORY ARISING OUT OF THE USE OR HAN-
DLING OF THIS PRODUCT.
Specifications
Wing Span……...170 in
Wing Area………1545 in²
Weight………….10.5 lbs
Wing Loading…. 15.6 oz/ft²
Note: This is not a beginners sailplane and certain aspects of building the sailplane are left up to the individual
preferences of the builder.

Fuselage
1. Fuselage
2. Wing Cover
3. Canopy Hatch
4. Elevator Pushrod
Left Wing
1. Outer Panel
2. Inner Panel
Right Wing
1. Outer Panel
2. Inner Panel
Page 3
Super XC
Parts List

Wing Bolts
1. 5/16” Nylon Bolt (4)
2. 5/16” Nylon Washer (4)
3. Wood Retainer Block (4)
Elevator Bag
1. 3/16” Elevator Pivot Tube
2. Elevator Bellcrank
Joiners
1. Main Wing Joiner
2. Outer Wing Joiner (2)
3. 5/32 Stabilizer Joiner
4. 3/32 Stabilizer Joiner
Parts List
Tail Group
1. Rudder
2. Left Stabilizer
3. Right Stabilizer
Towhook Hardware
1. Towhook
2. Mounting Block
Page 4
Super XC
Elevator Pushrod Hardware
1. 4-40 Rod Ends (2)
2. 4-40 Jam Nuts (2)
3. 4-40 Clevis and Lock (2)

Flap Hardware
1. Flap Linkages (2)
2. Control Horns (2)
Rudder Hardware
1. Pull-Pull Kevlar
2. 2-56 Threaded Rod (4)
3. 2-56 Jam Nuts (4)
4. 2-56 Clevis and Lock (4)
5. Control Horns (2)
Parts List
Rudder Hinges
1. Hinges (3)
2. Pockets (3)
Page 5
Super XC
Aileron Hardware
1. Aileron Linkages (2)
2. Ball Links (2)

5. Clamp a long straight edge at
both the root and tip. Be very
careful you do not over tighten
the clamp. Using the type of
clamp pictured, you can clamp
only using the bottom skin.
3. Flip the wing over and using
the mark on the top of the wing
as a reference, scribe a line with a
razor saw from the trailing edge
1 7/8” long.
2. Use a square to draw the line
from the mark on the trailing
edge to the recess line closest to
the trailing edge.
6. Using the saw, start at one end
of the wing and slowly cut along
the straight edge. The saw cuts
better if you keep the angle be-
tween the saw and wing small.
This allows more teeth to do the
work. Also the cut is nicer if you
make many light passes only re-
moving a little bit of material on
each pass, instead of trying to cut
the flap out in a single pass.
Page 6
Construction
1. Begin the wing inner panel by
marking the outboard end of the
flap. Measure 3/4” from the out-
board end of the wing towards
the root of the wing at the trailing
edge.
Super XC
Wing Part 1
Note: The wing, stabilizer, and
rudder skins can be damaged if
you lay them on sharp objects or
uneven surfaces. You can use a
towel on your workbench to pre-
vent this from happening.
4. At the root of the wing, scribe
a mark 2 1/2” from the trailing
edge.
Hint: A Sharpie® Ultra Fine
Point Marker works well on the
fiberglass pieces.
Hint: A Zona® saw with the
teeth angling towards the handle
and pulling the saw towards your
body works well for scribing and
cutting.

10. If you are confident in your
cutting abilities, you can just run
a razor saw along the indentation
line closest to the leading edge,
otherwise clamp a long straight
edge at the tip and root in the
same way you did previously on
the bottom of the wing.
11. You can use a razor saw
blade that has been removed from
the saw to cut the flap free in the
corner.
9. Flip the wing over and cut out
the top of the flap using the pen
line.
13. Set aside the inner panel and
mark 3/4” on the outboard panel
closest to the root.
Page 7
Construction
7. Place a piece of masking tape
on the cut line to keep the flap
from falling out after the top is
cut.
Super XC
Wing Part 1 (cont.)
12. Once the flap has been re-
moved, sand all the edges lightly
to finish them off. Now repeat
steps 1. through 11. for the other
wing.
8. Cut the previously scribed line.

17. Scribe another line at the tip
using the mark on top of the wing
1 1/2” long.
18. Using a razor saw blade cut
both ends of the aileron out using
the marked and scribed lines.
16. Flip the wing over and scribe
a line using the mark on the top
of the wing 2 1/4” long.
21. Using the markings on the
bottom of the wing panels, cut
out the servo covers on all four
panels. You can use tape to help
mark the lines. Either three sides
can be cut leaving the front side
to act as a hinge, or all four sides
can be cut removing the cover
completely.
Page 8
Construction
14. Draw a line from the mark to
the front indentation.
Super XC
Wing Part 1 (cont.) 19. Using a straight edge or if
you feel comfortable, free hand,
cut the top of the aileron free
along the front indentation.
15. Draw a line from the trailing
edge to the forward aileron in-
dentation, at the end of the ai-
leron indentation.
20. Repeat steps 13 through 19
for the opposite outer wing
panel.
22. Cut out the pushrod opening
using a Dremel® tool on all four
wing panels.

25. Line up the servo control arm
with the mark and mount the ser-
vos in all four wing panels using
your favorite method.
1. Slide the wing together using
the main wing joiner and fit the
wing to the fuselage. This may
require some custom filing and
sanding of the fuselage.
24. Make a mark on the top wing
skin to line up the servo arm.
One method is to use a combina-
tion square with piano wire.
2. Once the wing fits nicely with
the fuselage, slide the main pan-
els apart and mark where the
front and rear wing saddles line
up with the wing.
Page 9
Construction
Super XC
Wing Part 1 (cont.)
23. Cut an opening using a
Dremel® tool in the rear spar for
the pushrods in all four wing pan-
els.
3. Mark the middle of the wing
saddle location.
Note: The wing joiners may
need to be moved in or out of the
joiner socket in order for the
wings to slide together properly.
This is true for the main joiners
and tip joiners.
Wing Mount

7. Mark the wing and fuselage for
future reference.
8. Hold the wing down in the
proper position and using the
same drill bit you used to drill the
pilot holes, drill the wing saddle.
5. Drill a pilot hole in all four
wing bolt locations using a 1/8”
or similar sized drill bit.
9. Remove the drill bit and use it
to hold the wing in position
Page 10
Construction
Super XC
4. Using a combination square
and ruler, make a mark at 1 1/4”
for the front hold down bolt and
3/4” for the read hold down bolt.
Make sure and not measure from
the lip of the right panel.
10. Press a push pin along the
seam line near the fin and use it
to hold a tape measure.
Wing Mount (cont.)
6. Set the wings back in the sad-
dle and center the panels with the
fuselage.
11. Measure to the tip of the in-
ner wing panel and adjust the
wing so that both the left and
right measurements are the same.

14. Once the glue has dried, place
the wing back on the fuselage
and line up the holes in the wing
with the holes in the saddle and
drill through the wood blocks.
15. Drill and tap one hole at a
time. Slowly increasing the size
of the drill bits until size
‘G’ (.261) Some manufactures
include a size ‘G’ drill bit with a
5/16” tap. Using a propeller
reamer on the wing skin first
helps avoid damage caused by
drill bits.
12. Once the wing is lined up
properly, clamp the wing in place
and drill out the remaining three
pilot holes using a second drill
bit of the same size, or the next
size up.
Page 11
Construction
Super XC
16. After you tap each hole,
screw in a nylon wing hold down
bolt to help keep the wing lined
up properly. Once all they holes
are finished, remove the wing
and either drill or ream each hole
out to 5/16”.
Wing Mount (cont.)
13. Remove the wing and glue
the wing hold down blocks cen-
tered on the pilots holes in the
wing saddle . Do not fill the pilot
holes in the wing saddles with
excess glue
1. Drill out the indentations for
the main stabilator joiner rod, use
a 1/8” drill bit for a pilot hole
then a 3/16” drill bit for the final
size.
Stabilator

4. Mount the wing to the sail-
plane and using the wing as a ref-
erence line up the main joiner
wire with the wing. It is also
helpful to slide the stabilator
halves on the joiners to get a bet-
ter view. If necessary enlarge
one of the holes using a round
file to line up the wing with the
stabilator. One the stabilator if
even with the wing verify the
stabilator fairings are parallel
with each other. This may re-
quire a clamp at the trailing edge
of the fin. Glue the brass tube in
using thin CA or thick CA as
needed.
2. Drill out the hole for the rear
joiner rod using a 3/32” drill bit.
Page 12
Construction
Super XC
5. Make a slot guide by taking a
popsicle stick or similar piece of
wood and drilling out a 3/16”
hole and sliding the popsicle stick
over the joiner rod. The insert a
3/32” drill bit in the stabilator
and mark the popsicle stick. Drill
a hole at the mark.
Stabilator (cont.)
3. Slide the 3/16” brass tube
through the holes placing the ele-
vator bellcrank over the brass
tube.
7. Measure 1/2” up and 1/2”
down elevator throw and make a
mark.
6. Mark around the trailing edge
of the stabilator and cut the pop-
sicle stick off at the mark.

2. Drill a hole at the mark using a
9/64” drill bit.
8. Using the popsicle stick as a
guide, cut out the stabilator slot.
If you feel comfortable you can
do it directly with a Dremel®
tool.
Page 13
Construction
Super XC
3. Glue the tow hook block in
using epoxy and filler centered
over the tow hook hole.
Stabilator (cont.)
1. Hook a tape measure to the
nose of the fuselage and mark the
tow hook location at 27 3/4”
9. Glue one of the rod ends into
the carbon fiber elevator pushrod
with epoxy. Once you slide the
rod end into the pushrod, tape the
rod end to the pushrod and sus-
pend the pushrod vertically with
the rod end down, so the epoxy
can flow back down and fill the
voids in the rod end.
4. Drill a 9/64” hole through the
tow hook block using the previ-
ously drilled hole as a guide.
Screw the tow hook in and glue it
in using a few drops of thin CA.
Fuselage Part 1
5. Cut out the servo mounting
plate to fit the servos you have
chosen for the rudder and stabila-
tor.

9. Square up the back of the fin
using a large sanding block.
6. Glue the servo mounting plate
and forward equipment plate in
place with epoxy and filler.
Page 14
Construction
Super XC
10. Sand the top of the fin using a
dowel or something similar to
allow room for the rudder.
8. Once the pushrod has dried,
reinstall the pushrod permanently
making sure to lock the clevis at
the elevator bellcrank end.
7. Install the elevator servo, note
how spruce spacer blocks have
been installed on the servo tray to
keep the elevator servo above the
rudder servo. Temporarily install
the stabilator pushrod and the
servo control arm with the rod
end installed. With the servo arm
centered and the stabilator cen-
tered, mark the pushrod. Remove
the pushrod and cut it to length.
Glue the rod end using the same
method described earlier.
1. Mark the centerline of the fin
post.
Fuselage Part 1 (cont.)
2. Mark the top of the fin post
3/8” on each side and cut the ex-
tra material off. Sand the fin post
as needed to seat it about 1/2”
from back of the fuselage.
Rudder

Page 15
4. Place the fin post up to the rud-
der and drill holes in the rudder
using the holes previously drilled
in the fin post. After you drill
each hole, use another drill bit or
music wire to keep the fin post
aligned.
6. Place two pieces of masking
tape above and below each hole
in the rudder.
3. Lay the fin post down in front
of the rudder keeping the differ-
ence in height of the fin post and
rudder about even on the top and
bottom. Locate the small hinge
location indentations on the lead-
ing edge of the rudder and mark
the fin post at approximately the
same location. The bottom inden-
tation is approximately 1/2” too
high, so mark the fin post 1/2”
below the bottom indentation.
Drill 1/8” holes in the fin post at
each mark.
Construction
Super XC
7. Using the masking tape as a
guide, cut out a rectangular shape
large enough to allow the hinge
to move approximately 45° to
each side.
5. Drill out each pilot hole with a
3/16” drill bit. Use the hinges to
hold the fin post in place while
drilling the second and third
holes.
8. Drill out each hole in the fin
post to 1/4” and place the hinge
pockets in the holes.
Rudder (cont.)

Page 16
11. Insert the fin post into the fin
and verify the rudder swings at
least 2” to each side freely. The
top of the fin might need to be
sanded further with the round
sanding block.
13. Measure from the center of
the setscrew to edge of the fin.
10. Reinsert all three hinges into
the balsa rudder spar and verify
the rudder pivots freely. You
may need to undo the setscrew in
the pocket and pull the hinge out
slightly so the rudder clears the
pocket Once you are satisfied
with the fit, CA the hinges in the
rudder. Put a drop of CA near
the hinge on the balsa wood and
let it wick into the hinge to avoid
gluing the hinge pin by mistake.
Construction
Super XC
14. Transfer the measurement to
the line on the outside of the fin
and drill a 1/16” hole. Repeat the
measurement and drilling for all
three hinge pockets.
12. Pull the rudder to one side
and make a mark in line with the
setscrew on all three pockets.
Rudder (cont.)
9. Insert the hinges into the pock-
ets and verify the hinge pins are
vertical by using a combination
square. Make sure the pockets
are inserted fully into the rudder
post and the setscrew part of the
pocket is pressed up against the
fin post. When are you satisfied
everything is aligned properly
CA the pockets into the fin post.

Page 17
17. Drill a 7/64” hole in each side
of the rudder. The hole should be
even with the rudder hinge line
and on the mark drawn in the pre-
vious step.
19. Pull the Kevlar® pull-pull
thread through the brass threaded
rods and wick thin CA on the
end.
16. Reinstall the rudder and mark
the control horn location using
the middle of the rudder fairing
as a reference.
Construction
Super XC
20. Screw the threaded rods into
the rudder clevises and lower the
Kevlar® thread into the fuselage.
Install the rudder and tighten the
setscrews. Pull the string taut
and cut the Kevlar® thread
evenly when the rudder is
centered.
21. Screw the hollow threaded
rods into the clevises so that the
same amount of threaded rod is
exposed on each side of the
clevis. Install the clevises on the
servo arm. Once the rudder is
centered and the servo arm is
centered, slide the Kevlar thread
into the hollow threaded rods and
wick CA on the Kevlar® thread.
Adjust the tension as required.
Rudder (cont.)
18. Using a Dremel tool grind out
enough space for a clevis to be
removed easily. You will need to
remove enough of the threaded
portion of the control horn so the
hole in the control horn is even
with the rudder skin on each side.
Once you are satisfied with the
clearance CA the control horns
into the holes.
15. Once all three holes have
been drilled, keep the fin post-
clamped, loosen the setscrews
and remove the rudder. Add ad-
ditional clamps and popsicle
sticks to hold the fuselage firmly
against the fin post. Glue the fin
post in with thin CA. Once the
thin CA has dried remove the
clamps and use thick CA to cre-
ate a filet around the perimeter of
the fin post.

Page 18
2. Drill a 7/64” hole on the mark
at the back recess line at approxi-
mately 45°
4. Reinstall the wing and mark
the end of each flap remembering
to allow approximately 1/16”
clearance.
Construction
Super XC
5. Temporarily set the flaps into
position and transfer the mark
from the wing to the fuselage.
6. Use a combination square to
mark a line and cut each flap to
length.
3. Install the clevis on the control
horn and verify the fit. The con-
trol horn should be positioned so
that the clevis rests on the leading
edge of the flap and the control
horn is resting on the flap. Once
the control horn fists in the
proper position, epoxy the control
horn into the flap.
Wing Part II (cont.)
7. Install the gap seal tape on
each flap or at this time install the
plastic gap seal strips on each
flap. Use the information below
to help you decide which one to
use.
Gap Seal Tape
Advantages (easier to install, eas-
ier to replace if needed, more
aerodynamic)
Disadvantages (cannot lower
flaps to 90°)
Plastic Gap Seal Strip
Basically just the opposite of
above.
1. Place the flap back into posi-
tion and mark the center of the
flap linkage opening.

Page 19
8. Sand the upper skin of the in-
ner wing panel to a sharp taper.
This will allow the gap seal to
slide under the wing easier.
10. Slide a piece of sandpaper
between the aileron and top skin
and sand until the aileron leading
edge and the top skin are fairly
sharp edges.
Construction
Super XC
11. Install the aileron gap seal
tape. Pull down on the aileron
and slide the gap seal tape under
the wing skin using the tip of
your finger.
9. Tape the flaps onto the wings
and install the flap linkages.
Hook up the servos and the wing
inner panels are almost com-
pleted.
Wing Part II (cont.)
12. Install the threaded ball link
into the aileron and install the
aileron linkages. Hook up the
aileron servos and the outer pan-
els are almost completed.
Fuselage Part II
1. Cut the excess material off the
hatch and sand up to but not
touching the outer raised line.
2. Keep sanding and fitting until
the hatch fits snuggly on the fuse-
lage.
3. Put three dabs of 5 minute ep-
oxy on the rear hatch bulkhead
and place the bulkhead 1 1/2”
away from the back edge of the
hatch.

Page 20
5. Once the 5 minute epoxy has
dried use slow cure epoxy and a
structural filler to create a fillet
on each bulkhead. You can also
glue in a eyebolt for a rubber
band to retain the hatch.
Construction
Super XC
6. A Skymelody variometer in-
stallation is shown here as an ex-
ample of how to mount a
variometer. In this installation a
fuselage mounted total energy
probe is being used.
Fuselage Part II (cont)
7. Since there are so many bat-
tery , switch, and receivers being
used, it is left up to you to decide
how you would like to mount
yours.
Time to go fly!
4. Set the hatch on the fuselage
and verify the fit, basically you
have to hold the hatch in place
until the 5 minute epoxy is cured
enough to hold the bulkhead in
position. Repeat steps 3 and 4
with the front bulkhead.