Dragonfly Trimaran 1000 User manual

Dragonfly 1000
Trimaran
Owner’s Manual
USCG Doc#1032257

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TABLE OF CONTENTS
1. Diagram
a. Deck layout
b. Side view
2. Loading
a. Payload
b. Storage advise
3. Swing Wing System
a. Use, advice
4. Sail Handling
a. Main, Backstays, reefing
b. Genoa
c. Barberhauler
d. Hoisting the Genoa
e. Wind speed general
guidelines
5. Kick-up Centerboard and Rudder
a. Purpose
b. Use, Access
c. Diagrams
6. Electrical System
a. DC and AC systems
b. Charging
c. AC 110V shore power
d. General Advice
e. Diagram of system
7. Fresh Water system
a. Tank
b. Electric pump
c. Sinks
d. Shower
e. Water heater
f. Diagram of system
8. Waste System
a. Toilet
b. Y Valve
c. Holding Tank
d. Using the head
e. General tips
f. Diagram
9. Fuel System
a. Diagram
10. Interior
a. Galley
b. Cabin Heater
c. Lighting
d. Berths
11. Miscellaneous
a. Bilge pumps
b. Folding propeller
c. Stuffing box
d. Diagram
12. Launching and Storage
13. Maintenance
a. Rinse, Wash and Wax
b. Rig
c. Wood work
d. Engine
e. Manufacturers materials
f. Waterstay
g. Checklist
14. 1000 Specifications

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2.
LOADING
There are two basic rules for loading multihulls:
1. Keep the boat as light as possible
2. Concentrate heavy items in the center of the boat.
It is important not to carry unnecessary gear. We recommend that you go through the
storage lockers several times per year to look for and remove unnecessary gear,
preventing the build-up of unnecessary weight.
The ama storage areas are ideal for big, bulky light items such as fenders, sails, extra
life jackets etc. Heavy items must not be carded in the amas.
The maximum payload for the Dragonfly 1000 is 500kg. (1100 lb.). The maximum
payload in each ama is 100kg. (220lbs). Overloading the Dragonfly 1000 can effect
performance and safety.

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3.
THE SWING WING SYSTEM
Operating The Swing Wing system:
Important
The unique swing-wing system is designed for use only in protected areas, such as
marinas, to fit into a normal slip (berth).
The sails must never be hoisted when the floats are folded in.
Always stow the sails before you start operating the swing-wing system.
Operating the swing-wing system:
Folding in the wings.
1. Pull out and prepare the endless swing-wing line. This line is found underneath
the cockpit coaming and exits the coaming through a stainless steal cover situated in
front of the big genoa winch. As already marked, the outhaul line, marked OUT is
used for swinging the ama out and the inner line marked IN is for folding the ama in.
2. Remove the big spinnaker pole brace, without stepping onto the aft trampoline.
Put the spinnaker pole into the stainless ring aft on the hull and secure it by fastening it
to the eyebolt on the aft beam near the centerhull. (This eyebolt is also used as a
lifting eye.)
3. Release the backstays on both sides.
4. Release the double-halyard stopper in the cockpit coaming.
5. Now crank the winch (3-4 turns of rope on the winch) on the AMA-IN line and the
amas fold in. No persons are allowed on the trampoline, the wings or the floats while
operating the swing-wing system.
Do not force the swing if you have too much resistance.
Checklist
• Double-halyard stopper open?
• Line kinked, fouled or twisted in coaming?
• Backstays released?
• Barberhauler lines released?
• Swing-wing line. Is there a kink? Is it fouled under the cockpit coaming?
• Double-check your steps. Never force.

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Important
When almost folded
• Lift trampoline so it does not interfere between the nylon roller on the ama and
the underside of the wing.
• Also, the outhaul wire and the stainless block in the trampoline must not get in
between the underside of the wing and ama deck.
Once the boat is folded the trampoline can be left under the catwalk and the wings
where they naturally fold.
6. Once folded secure the ama with the small aluminum pole. (the mini spinnaker pole
brace) in the same pad eyes as the big spinnaker pole. (If you are in a hurry to fold the
boat do not worry about these until later when you have more time.)
7. When the folding procedure is done, lock the double-halyard stopper again before
releasing the downhaul form the winch. This line supports the forward part of the ama.
Once this is complete, pull the swing-wing control lines back down under the cockpit
coaming for out-of-the-way storage. Set both backstays set by hand.
8. Folding out is the same procedure, just reverse.
• Release the small spinnaker pole brace.
• Release the backstays.
• Release the double-halyard stopper in the cockpit coaming.
• Wrap swing-wing lines from the cockpit coaming marked OUT around the winch
and crank out.
• If the ama does not come out by itself then just push it with a foot while there is
tension on the outhaul line on the winch.
**NOTE**
If there is still unreasonable tension on the winch while swinging in or out STOP!
There’s something wrong! Go through the checklist.
NEVER force the Swing Wing process if you feel a lot of resistance. Retrace your
steps instead.
9. Prepare early when returning to harbor.
To fold the boat quickly, prepare the swing-wing IN line on the winch on both sides and
remove the big spinnaker pole brace. This way when you are ready to enter the
marina, all you have to do is release the double-halyard stopper and fold quickly.

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4.
SAIL HANDLING
1. MAINSAIL: The main will require a lot of trimming if you want to get maximum
performance at all times. The mainsheet will be your key control for mainsail trimming
as the boat has many speed potentials in difference wind speeds. A general rule: The
leach of your main must always be straight no matter what the wind force. By standing
at the end of the boom in the cockpit and looking up the leach to the mast top you will
have the proper position to best judge the sail shape. From this position you will note
that the leach of the sail must not be twisted off unless the boat is being pressed to
hard.
2. MAINSAIL LUFF TENSION: In light air you tighten the main halyard only until the
wrinkles in the sail are gone. In medium air the main halyard is tightened to remove
wrinkles and be sure the luff is straight. In heavy air the main halyard is tightened hard
to flatten the sail while at the same time the mainsheet should also be pulled in hard.
* If you are at anchor for a short time with the mainsail up, loosen the main halyard to
release the tension in the mainsail to quiet the boat.
3. MAINSHEET CAR: Multihulls have a rule: The mainsheet car must never pass the
centerline of the boat to windward ... not even in light air. If the wind is increasing
when sailing up wind and you find the main has too much power, try sheeting the
traveler approximately 4-6" to leeward instead of slacking the mainsheet, therefore
hollowing the main. Of course, don't rule out easing off the sheet in heavy air as well
when you feel you are overpowered.
4. BACKSTAYS: The combined top shroud-backstay has been developed for the
swing-wing system and to enable easy and quick trimming of the top shrouds. When
sailing, always set the backstays the same on both sides to obtain even tension on the
topshrouds.
1) Light wind, set them by hand without using a winch handle.
2) Medium wind, use the winch handle lightly to add tension.
3) Heavy wind, set the backstays on the self tailing winch as hard as you can,
turning the winch handle with only one hand.
**NOTE** Double-handed grinding on winch for backstay tension can be too
much strain on the rigging and the boat in general. Be careful not to "over
tension" the backstays. By following the simple rules above and limiting your
tensioning to the strength of one hand, you will have good control.

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5. REEFING THE MAINSAIL: In order to reef the main release the main halyard to
allow the sail to drop to the selected reef point, we recommend that you mark the main
halyard for the reef one and reef two positions. Then winch in the reef line until the
reef points are 10" above the boom. It is not necessary to bring the reefing points on
the sail any closer to the boom. Doing so will only put excess tension on the reefing
lines. The reefing lines automatically reef the luff first and then the leach.
6. TRIMMING THE GENOA: The genoa is the easiest sail to trim. Under normal
conditions the genoa car on the cabin top should be positioned aft on the track. If the
slot between the main and jib closes, move the genoa car aft. If the slot opens, pull
the genoa car forward. The genoa cars are operated from the double-halyard stopper
rope clutches on the cabin top marked outhaul.
Reefing the Genoa:
• Pull the genoa car forward so that when the genoa is reefed it will be in better
position for correct trim.
• For reef 1, the genoa car is placed approximately in the middle of the track.
• For reef 2, car is pulled almost all the way forward.
7. BARBERHAULER: The barberhauler should not be used on the genoa when
sailing close-hauled. During all other points of sail you should treat the barberhauler
as you would a boom on a main. There are an infinite number of ways to trim the
genoa with the barberhauler. Enjoy!
8. HOISTING THE GENOA: Before hoisting the genoa, make sure to roll some line
on the drum. Turn the headfoil clockwise until you have approx. 3 feet of line left in the
cockpit. This way you are able to unfurl genoa as soon as it is hoisted.
There is no genoa halyard on the Dragonfly 1000. You will find an S-hook attached to
a long white feeder line. This will be used to assist the spinnaker halyard in hoisting
the genoa and safely bringing the spinnaker halyard back down.
• Attach the genoa to the sliding headfoil fitting.
• Be sure to attach the release wire from the genoa onto the small wire strap on
the sliding headfoil fitting.
• Attach the spinnaker halyard to the upper closed end of the S-hook.
• Place the open end of the S-hook inside the open hole of the sliding headfoil
fitting.
• Hoist the spinnaker halyard while someone feeds the genoa sail into its track.
• When the halyard is all the way at the top of the headfoil, listen carefully for a
“click” letting you know the sliding headfoil fitting has just locked into place.
• Release the spinnaker halyard and try to pull down on the genoa to make sure
the lock on top is actually in place.
• Take the white feeder line and pull the S-hook attached to the spinnaker halyard
back down. (Sometimes you might have to step out a little to the side in order to
release the S-hook.)

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To lower the genoa, pull the release wire that is in the luff of the genoa. This will
release the lock on top and allow the genoa to be pulled back down.
Genoa Battens: Once the genoa is hoisted, put in the Elvstrom vertical battens. Put
the battens into their corresponding pockets from the bottom, long one forward, short
one aft. Close them in by fastening the Velcro seal to the sail.
***DANGER***
When unpacking the rolled up battens for the first time, BE CAREFUL! They have a
tendency to explode out of their coiled position with great force.

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5.
KICK-UP CENTERBOARD AND RUDDER
Centerboard:
When maneuvering in the harbor always make sure the centerboard is down. You
have much better steerage under power with the centerboard down.
For optimum performance while sailing follow these guidelines:
1) Sailing to windward, keep the centerboard all the way down.
2) On a beam reach bring the centerboard half way up.
3) Downwind bring the centerboard all the way up.
Be sure that when you lower the centerboard completely, the knot on the centerboard
line is all the way to the easylock rope clutch to starboard. The centerboard easylock
rope clutch should be closed at all times.
If the board hits ground while sailing, the tension release cleat will pop up releasing the
centerboard line so that the centerboard can swing back into its case. (It really works
great!!)
If you detect a jam of the centerboard line, there is great easy access. Unscrew the
cabin table from the centerboard trunk for easy access to the lines.
To remove centerboard: To remove the centerboard the boat must be out of the water
while the board is folded up into the centerboard trunk. First, unscrew the hex head
screw on the centerboard which is exposed under the boat. The centerboard can then
be lowered slowly using the control lines from the cockpit. Be careful when lowering
the centerboard. It weighs approximately 80lbs (40kgs).
Rudder:
When the rudder touches the ground while sailing, the tension release cleat opens up
and the board kicks up automatically.
To reset the tension release cleat, lift the locking lever on top of the cleat casing and
snap the cleat back into its case. The bottom portion of the rudder and centerboard
are both solid fiberglass.

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6.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
The Dragonfly 1000 has a 12V DC electrical system with a 110V AC system (shore
power). The DC system is based on three 65 amp 12V batteries. These batteries are
located under the bottom step in the companionway. The batteries are controlled by
the switch panel above the step. Of the three batteries, one is designated for the
Engine only and the other two are both used for auxiliary power. All three batteries
can be connected through the emergency switch on the battery control panel. The
control ports have three switches, Engine, Emergency, and Auxiliary
The engine battery is connected only to the engine
The auxiliary battery is connected only to the auxiliary system.
The emergency battery can be sent to the engine or auxiliary panel by switching on
the on the emergency battery switch.
Charging the batteries: There are three possible ways to charge the batteries:
1. Run the engine: The engine has a 55 amp alternator which will charge the engine
battery until it is full. Once it is full, it will then switch to the auxiliary batteries.
2. Solar Panels: The two 50w panels put out a total of 8 amps. They are linked to a
regulator, which is located behind the auxiliary panel. The regulator then sends the
power to the auxiliary battery.
3. Shore power: The shore power system comes with a 10 amp charger located
behind the refrigerator. It charges the two auxiliary batteries. The charger has an
automatic shut-off switch which will prevent the batteries from being over charged, but
if the boat will be left unattended for several weeks, we do not recommend having the
system on.
**NOTE** Shore power will charge only the auxiliary batteries, unless the
emergency switch is on then it will charge all three batteries.

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AC System:
The AC system is 110VAC (same as what is in your house). This power is only
available when the boat is 'plugged-in" at the dock. The system consists of a 20m
cable which plugs into the 110V outlet on the dock and into the boat through the
anchor well. Power runs to the 110 circuit breakers located in the locker under the
sink in the head.
There are 3 circuit breakers:
1. Main. (shuts off the 110 system). When the 110 system is on, a small yellow light
will come on in the galley.
2. Outlet and charger: These control the power to the outlets. There is one outlet in
the galley and one in the head. Through these outlets you can run your hair dryer, TV
etc. This switch also controls the power to the battery charger, which is located behind
the refrigerator.
3. Hot water heater: This controls the power to an outlet in the engine compartment to
which the hot water heater is plugged in. (Located in the engine compartment on the
port side).
**DANGER** Hot water circuit breaker must be off if how water tank or fresh water
tank is empty. Otherwise you will burn out the hot water heater!
As a rule, you should always be aware of the state of your batteries and how much
electricity is being used. It is always advisable to conserve your power while cruising.
We recommend running the engine for 1 hour in the morning and 1 hour in the
evening.
Marine Electronmcs: The electronics are mounted above the companionway. The
on/off switch is labeled on the electrical panel as 'Navigation instruments". The
sending unit for the depth sounder and the paddle wheel for the knot meter are located
under the v-berth.

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7.
Fresh Water System
The fresh water system consists of a 100 liter (26.4 gallons) fresh water tank, a fresh
water pump, two sinks, two showers and an optional water heater.
1. The fresh water tank:The fresh water tank is located under the V berth. It has a
clear cover, which makes it very easy to check the amount of fresh water available.
The fresh water deck fitting is located on the bow (labeled water).
The tank is vented by a hose running to the port topsides near the bow.
A person used to sailing cruising monohulls might be surprised that the Dragonfly 1000
does not carry more water. Unlike monohulls, multihulls are very sensitive to
increases in weight. Therefore, the size of the water tank was kept small.
2. Fresh water pump: This 12V electric pump is located just aft of the fresh water
tank. This pump pressurizes the entire fresh water system (hot and cold). The on/off
switch is located on the main auxiliary panel. When the pump is turned on it should
run for 10-15 seconds and then stop. If it continues to run or keeps turning on and off,
the system is leaking. One of the faucets was probably left slightly open. Check all
faucets and make sure they are closed (including transom shower).
Do not let the pump run continuously or you will deplete your water supply and the
pump will burn out.
All pressurized water systems make it very easy to use up your entire fresh water
supply quickly. It is important to remember to conserve so that your water supply lasts
as long as necessary.
3. Sinks: There are two sinks. One is located in the galley, the other in the head.
The sink in the head has hot and cold pressurized fresh water. It drains to a through
hull fitting (above the water line) below and aft of the sink. The sink in the galley has
both hot and cold pressurized fresh water and pressurized sea water. This sink drains
to a through hull fitting (above the water line) just aft of the sink, in the engine
compartment.

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4. Showers: There are two showers. One of the showers is located in the head the
other is located on the transom. In the head, the faucet used for the sink pulls out and
becomes a hand held shower head. There is a shower curtain, which should be used
to keep the lockers and their contents dry. Below the head floor is the shower's sump
pump "bilge pump". The switch for the sump pump is on the front of the locker, below
the sink. The pump will only go on if the water pressure is on. The discharge through
hull fitting (above water line) for the sump pump is located on the port side, just below
and aft of the sink.
The transom shower consists of a retractable hand held shower head and hot and cold
pressurized water.
5. Water Heater: The water heater provides hot water for the pressurized water
system. The heater holds 20 liters (5.3 gallons), increasing the fresh water system's
holding capacity to 120 liters (31.7 gallons).
It heats the water in two ways.
• when the engine is running. The engine cooling water flows through a set of
tubing in the heater (heating the fresh water) and then back into the engine.
The engine cooling water never mixes with the fresh water.
• The heater has a 110V heating element, which can only be used when the
shore power is plugged into the dock. The on/off switch is located on the 110V
circuit breaker under the sink in the head.
**Caution**
If the fresh water tank is empty, make sure the electric water heater switch is off at
the circuit breaker or the unit will bum out!

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8.
Head / Waste System
There are three basic components to the Dragonfly 1000's waste system: The toilet,
the Y valve and the holding tank with it's discharge pump. Use the system properly
and it will work efficiently for years.
1. The toilet:The head has its own built in pump, which is used to flush the waste
through the system. The pump has two controls:
1. The pump handle (to the port of the bowl) which both pumps water in and
flushes water and waste out.
2. The intake control lever ( to starboard of the bowl) which allows you to shut off
incoming water (up position) to pump the bowl dry.
The intake seacock is located to port of the centerboard trunk under the floor.
The outlet seacock is located under the V berth on the starboard side (both easily
accessible).
2. The Y valve: The Y valve (located in the V berth) enables you to discharge waste
directly overboard (be careful of local regulations) or into the holding tank. The short
end of the handle on the Y valve indicates the flow of waste.
3. Holding Tank: The holding tank provides temporary waste storage. It is
constructed of stainless steel and holds 55 liters (14.5 gallons). The holding tank is
located to port of the centerboard trunk under the cabin floor. There is access to the
hose connections through the cut out section of the floor. To use the holding tank,
simply switch the Y valve to holding tank. It is recommended not to pump the toilet too
many times when flushing into the tank otherwise you will quickly fill the tank with sea
water.
Waste is removed from the holding tank in two ways.
1. A pump out station hose connected to the waste fitting on the bow will suck out
the waste.
2. The manual pump (located above the Y valve) will pump out the holding tank
directly overboard.

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4. Using the head: Only put human waste and marine toilet paper into the head. All
marine heads are very sensitive to clogging and it is a horrible job to unclog.
Follow these steps to use the head:
1. Open the seacocks.
2. Put Y valve in appropriate position.
3. Wet bowl by flushing with intake lever in down position. (toe on the pedal)
4. Use bowl.
5. Flush with intake lever down until waste is out of bowl, then
a. if discharging overboard - another 15 times.
b. if discharging into the holding tank - 7 times.
6. Pump bowl dry. Flush with intake lever up. (toe off the pedal)
5. General Tips:
1. The holding tank is made out of stainless steel to minimize odors but we
recommend keeping the holding tank empty whenever possible.
2. The seacock should be closed if the boat is going to be left unattended for
extended periods.
3. Never try to force a pump. This will result in destroying a seal and possibly
causing a leaky head.