Duerkopp Adler 744-122 User manual

Contents Page
Preface and General Safety Notes
Part 1: Operating Instructions Cl. 744-122
1. Product Description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
1.1 Summary and Intended Use . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
1.2 Technical Specification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
1.3 Optional Equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
2. Operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
2.1 Replacing the Material Guide Rail by Primary Seams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
2.2 Attaching the Material Stopper by Primary Seams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
2.3 Setting the Seam Interval by Primary Seams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
2.4 Needles-Yarn-Thread Tensions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
2.5 Inserting the Material and Starting the Sewing Unit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
2.6 Thread Monitor for Needle and Bobbin Thread . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
2.7 Build-on Stacker by Primary Seams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

1. Product Description
1.1_ Summary and Intended Use
The 744-122 sewing unit is for sewing
pre-determined, straight or curved seams.A rail
appropriate to the seam configuration holds and
guides the material.
The material transport is conducted by a step
motor. The sewing unit has electro-pneumatic
controls.
The Microcontrol control units have the integrated
"Multitest" testing and monitoring system. Along
with monitoring the sewing process this allows a
quick checking of the input and output elements.
Possible operating errors and malfunctions are
shown in the display.
Depending on the program, the control of the
sewing unit can occur via photocell or distance
measurement.
Along with continuous seams from seam beginning
to seam end the following additional functions can
be selected with the control unit:
– Slit at the beginning of the material
– Slit at the end of the material
– Slit at the beginning and at the end of the
material
– Seam interruption or partial stitch condensing
– Seam interruption with slit at the beginning and
at the end of the material
– Security at the seam end through chain
stitching or stitch condensing
Through equipment with the appropriate parts sets,
the sewing unit can be used for the following work
procedures:
1. Primary seams: Work procedure A,
e.g. rear sleeve seam, mid-back seam, front
sleeve seam, side piece seam-overcoat, front
sleeve seam with outer material-lining in one
step etc.
2. Sewing waistbands on trousers: work
procedure D
3. Sewing waistbands on skirts: Work procedure E
The selector switch on the back of the control unit
front panel must have a setting appropriate to the
work procedures.
The setting normally occurs at the factory.
Which selector switch setting should be chosen for
which work procedure can be found in the
Microcontrol controls summary in the annex to
these instructions.
Please direct further enquiries concerning work
procedures/applications to
or its offices.
3

1.2 Technical Specification
Nominal voltage: Standard machine
3x380-400V+N, 50 Hz
The nominal voltage (operating voltage) for which
the sewing unit was set up is shown on the plate
attached to the spar at the front left under the table
top.
For operation with other mains voltages the
information contained in the enclosed connection
diagram 9870 744001 B must be strictly adhered to
and the necessary connection changes made.
Depending on the mains voltage and cycle the
necessary modification parts, e.g.pulley, V-belt,
protection switch insert,etc. are available under the
following order no.s:
3x380-400V+N 50 Hz - 744 100121
3x220-230V 50 Hz - 744 100122
3x220-230V 60 Hz - 744 100123
3x415V+N, 50 Hz - 744 100124
Machine Head
– One needle-dual chain stitch Stitch type 401
– Class 935-933-200
– with controlled thread trimmer on the base plate
– Number of stitches: adjustable between
3800-5400 stitches/min.
– Stitch length: adjustable for 2,1 mm,
2,5 mm, 3,0 mm or 3,6 mm
– Stitch length by stitch condensing: 2,0 mm,
1,5 mm or off
– Needle system: 934 SIN
Sewing Lengths
Depending on the equipment, the maximum sewing
length can be either 1000 mm or 1250 mm.
Appropriate transport drive parts and material
guide rails make possible a quick conversion.
Material Guide Rail
The left, right and wait positions can be selected
with the control unit. The wait position keeps the
feed area clear.
The return speed of the material guide rail can be
reduced through a coding. It is dependent on the
form of the material guide rail.
The rail clearance stroke is 30 mm.
Compressed Air :
Operating pressure: 6 bar
Air consumption: approx.9 NL per operating cycle
Vacuum:
The sewing unit is prepared for connection to an
in-house vacuum facility. If this is not available then
a rotary blower must also be ordered.
For 3 x 380-400V+N, 50 Hz - Order no.722 3031K
For 3 x 415V+N, 50 Hz _- Order no.722 3032K
For 3 x 220-230V, 50 Hz - Order no.722 3033K
For 3 x 220-230V, 60 Hz - Order no.722 3034K
For 3 x 220V, 50 Hz - Order no.722 3035K
Dimensions:Width: 3600 mm (2100 mm)
Depth: 1000 mm (1000 mm)
Height: 1500 mm to top of
_ control unit (1400 mm)
( ) = Shipping dimensions
The sewing unit (work level) is height adjustable
from 920-1140 mm for standing operation.
1.3 Optional Equipment
Order no.
794 7451 Side table
935 - - - - Edge cutter and chain trimmer
935 20607 Throat plate with stitch hole 1,5x5 mm
935 20608 Throat plate with stitch hole 1,8x5 mm
4

2. Operation
Turn main switch off!
- Risk of Injury -
– when threading
– when replacing sewing tools e.g.needle
– when cleaning
– when leaving the work place unattended
– by maintenance work
2.1 Replacing the material guide rail by
primary seams
Turn main switch off!
- Risk of Injury! -
Removing
– Place valve lever 1 in the down position.
– Lift the guide piston 2 with its two rollers 9 and
8 out of the rail 3.
– Pull the rail 3 out of the needle area from the
front.
– Release the left and right clamp lever 7.
– Remove the rail after lifting the clamp piston 6
and place in the mounting at the left on the
covering hood.
Inserting
– The insertion of the rail is conducted in the
reverse order.
– When tightening the clamp lever 7 care should
be taken to see that the pin 5 of the clamp
piston 6 snap into the hole 4 of the rail.
– The roller 8 of the guide piston and the roller_9
for the thread trimmer must be lowered into the
groove on the rail. Place the valve lever 1 up
again.Otherwise the display *Schiene* will
appear. - A starting of the sewing unit is then
not possible.
2
3
7
6
5
4
1
2
1
9 8
5

2.2 Attaching the material stopper by
primary seams
Turn main switch off!
- Risk of Injury -
– The contours of the material stopper and the
material guide rail must agree in the transport
carriage’s right hand position.
– Turn the star grip 7 back several turns.
– Slide the holder plate 5 under the star grip 7 in
such a manner that its cutout is exactly seated
on the collar bolt and the hole locks above the
location peg 6.
– Screw the star grip 7 tight.
– When equipped with material holder 1 on the
material stopper its compressed air hose
should be plugged into the pneumatic socket 3.
– The coding plug_2_is always to be plugged into
the socket 8_.
It contains the coding for the allowable rail
return speed.
2.3 Setting the seam interval by pri-
mary seams
The uniform gap between material guide rail and
material stopper, that is, the planned seam interval,
is to be set after loosening the screws 4.
1
4
8
2 3
7 6 5
6

2.4 Needles - Yarns - Thread tension
Needles
System 934 SIN needles are to be used.
(SIN = slightly rounded point)
Recommended needle thickness:
Nm 80
Nm 90 for thin material
Nm 100 for medium material
Nm 110
Nm 120 for thick material
Throat plates with wider stitch holes are to be used
for needle thicknesses above Nm 100. See Section
1.3 Optional Equipment.
Turn main switch off!
- Risk of Injury -
When inserting the needle care is to be taken that
the hollow neck of the needle points to the left
when seen from the operating side of the sewing
unit.
Yarns
High sewing security and good sewability are
achieved with covering yarns, especially
a) with dual polyester endless - polyester covered,
e.g.Epic Poly Poly, Rasant x, Saba C and
others;
b) with dual polyester endless - cotton covered,
e.g.Frikka, Koban, Rasant and others.
As yarn thickness dependent on the needle
thickness we recommend:
Needle thicknessCovering yarn
Nm polyester-endless
90 120 (Nm 80/2)
100 100 (Nm 65/2)
110 75 (Nm 50/2)
Concerning the threading of the needle and bobbin
threads see the enclosed operating card.
Thread tension
The tension of the needle thread must be greater
than that of the bobbin thread. The bobbin thread
tension is therefore equipped with a spring of
thinner wire.
Too high thread tensions cause the material being
sewn to pucker.
A too low bobbin thread tension can cause faulty
stitches.
For drawing the threads for trimming or by seam
interruptions the needle thread tension is released
pneumatically.
2.5 Inserting the material and starting
the sewing unit
The sewing unit is equipped at the factory for a
specific work procedure, e.g. for primary seams, for
sewing waistbands on trousers or for sewing
waistbands on skirts.
For each of these work procedures there are
multiple insertion methods with variing switching
stages for feeding, suction and starting available.
For the choice of insertion methods for each work
procedure and type of handling see Section 4.5 of
the Microcontrol summary in the manual annex.
Switching on the feed procedure occurs via the "E"
key of the control unit.Then an activation through
the STOP key is necessary.
7

2.6 Thread monitor for needle and bob-
bin thread
The threads are monitored by proximity switches.
The needle thread by the b15 switch in conjunction
with the metal eye on the arm head.
The metal eye and switch b14 for the bobbin thread
are immediately in front of the hook.
By needle thread breakage the display shows -X-
By bobbin thread breakage the display shows -XX-
The sewing unit cannot be re-started.
When threading:
Turn main switch off!
- Risk of Injury -
2.7 Build-on stacker by primary seams
In order that the pieces sewn can be stacked
centered on the stacker 1 according to their length,
a clamp-on moment in advance of the pull-out
moment can be selected.
(For this the b417.5 selector switch on the back of
the control unit front panel must be in the "open"
position.)
To choosing the clamp-on moment see the
operating card 744-122.
The stacker can be opened pneumatically via
pedal for removing the stacked pieces sewn.
b15
b14
1
8