Dynastar Aerodactyl ts User manual

Made In USAKit #05041

Skill Level 3

Average Skills Needed

The AeroDactyl TS is a simple-to-build two-stage, payload

carrying rocket that was designed around the Estes 29mm diameter

rocket engines. These engines are low thrust, and therefore need

a low weight rocket for maximum speed performance. With these

motors, the rocket leaves a thick smoke trail as it zooms skyward.

The kit features a slotted body tube that allows the laser cut ns

to mount perfectly straight on the rocket. This allows the rocket to y

straight and true. It also has a large payload bay, which can be used

to y things like altimeters and other scientic payloads. You’ll nd

that it is a very versatile rocket because it can be used with a variety

of rocket motors. You can also y the model as a single-stage vehi-

cle. With so many options it will never bore you.

AeroDactyl TS Parts List

Needed Tools and Materials

Hobby Knife with Sharp Blades

Ruler

Wood Glue (recommended) or White Glue

Sand Paper 200 grit

Masking Tape

Pencil

Scissors

Paper Towel

Wood Dowel

Optional Tools / Finishing Supplies

Super Glue (CyA Adhesive medium viscosity)

Plastic Sheet (to cover the work surface)

Paint Supplies: (Spray Paint, Brushes, etc)

Wood Sealer/Sanding Sealer

Safety Glasses (For general protection while building)

P/N 31105

Manufactured in the USA by:

Apogee Components Inc.

Colorado Springs, Colorado, USA

Visit us online at:

www.DynaStar-Rockets.com

Item # Item Name Qty

10252 AT-29/5.25 Laser Cut Booster Stage Engine

Mount Tube

10250 AT-29/7" Sustainer Stage Engine Mount Tube 1

10188 AT-66/18" Laser-Cut Sustainer Tube: 3-Slots 1

10189 AT-66/18" Laser-Cut Booster and Payload

tube: 3 Slots

12381 CBD-66 Plywood Disk 1

13039 AC-66A (Red) Laser-Cut 1

13044 AC-66A (Red) 1

13035 CR 24/29 (Green) 2

13315 CR 29/2.6" 4

13056 1/4" Launch Lug 3.0" 1

15565 AeroDactyl TS Sustainer Fin Sheet 1/8" Balsa 1

15566 AeroDactyl TS Booster Fin Sheet 1/8" Balsa 1

19480 Nose Cone PNC-66 1

23011 Parachute Rings 8

29117 DynaStar 32" Plastic Parachute 1

29500 Cotton Parachute String 21ft

29506 Kevlar Shock Cord 300# 10ft

29624 Wood Screw Eyelet Size 9 1

31105 AeroDactyl TS Instructions Sheet A 11x17 1

31106 AeroDactyl TS Instructions Sheet B 8.5x11 1

31107 AeroDactyl Fin Template Sheet 1

41012 AeroDactyl Decal 1

39034 AeroDactyl Face Card 1

Mid-Power Rockets

5.25” Green engine

block ring

Green engine block

ring inside tube

Place centering rings

between the marks

on the tube

Apply a line of glue around

the tube here

Step 5

Align the holes when

glueing together

Make sure to remove these

square pieces with a

hobby knife first Inside of tube

Booster tube

Place glue on the inside

edge of tube here

Step 7

Assembly Steps

Construction of Booster Stage Motor Mount

1. (Optional to reduce drag) Sand the balsa laser-cut

sheets using 200 grit sandpaper. Then remove the ns

with a hobby knife and airfoil the front and rear edges.

2. (Optional for Fin Skins) Fin skins are highly rec-

ommended to survive a hard landing. Place a piece

of regular paper on top of a smooth surface (wood or

glass). Then place a n on top of the paper.

3. (Optional Fin Skins) Mix glue with water in a small

cup (the right mixture should be watery enough to

avoid leaving brush marks when painting the n). Use

a paintbrush to apply a thin layer of the mixture to one

side of the n. Once complete, ip over the n (press

into the paper you placed in the prior step) and paint

the mixture onto the opposite side.

4. (Optional Fin Skins) Place a piece of paper over

the top of the n. Press down on the paper to rub out

any bumps in the paper to smooth out the surface of

the n. Place wood or glass on top of the paper and

then place some books or weight on top and let dry.

Once dry, cut out the n from the paper and trim away

the overlap with a hobby knife. Repeat this process for

all 6 ns.



The booster stage is the lowest section of the rock-

et. It is designed to fall off and tumble back to the

ground after the engine burns out during the ight.

5. The booster stage engine mount tube is the short-

er 29mm tube that is 5.25in (133mm) long, and it has a

small rectangular cutout at one end of the tube. Locate

one of the green rings (CR 24/29). Using a wood dow-

el, spread a line of glue inside the tube at the cut-out

location. Slide the green ring inside the tube so it is

visible through the cut-out window of the tube. Wipe off

any glue that oozes out with a paper towel

6. Test t both large wooden CR 29/2.6" centering

rings onto the motor mount tube. Sand the inside of

the rings if necessary. Now spread a thin line of glue

around the inside edge of one of the tube line mark-

ings. Then slide one of the rings over the glue and rest

it just behind the tube mark. Repeat step for the other

centering ring. Clean off excess glue and let dry. Set

aside the motor mount for now.

7. Add a ring of glue to the inside forward edge of the

booster tube. Then take the red tube coupler with

the holes in it and slide it into the booster tube. Take

care to align the holes in both tubes. Wipe away any

excess glue on the inside and the outside of the tubes.

8. Use a wood dowel to spread two lines of glue inside

the booster tube; one line of glue on each side of the

slots cut in the tube. Now slide the motor mount into

the booster tube (into the end with no coupler). The

motor mount will stop against the inside end of the

coupler, clean off any excess glue. Apply a llet

of glue around the edge of the back ring.

Place a single fin on a large piece

of regular printer paper

Air-foil the fins by rounding out top and bottom edges

with sand paper

Use painbrush to brush on

the glue

Use wood dowel to place a

glue ring at these areas

inside the tube

Insert the end with the engine

block into the booster tube first

Wood dowel with glue

Apply a glue fillet here

Step 8

Smooth the fin under the top

& bottom layers of paper Glass over the top

When dried, cut out fin Trim edges of paper off of the

fin with a hobby knife

Page 2

Step 2

Step 4

Step 1

Step 3

Step 6

Pull Kevlar through

inside hole on the

grooved ring

Use dowel to place

glue ring inside

tube here

Engine block

Glue string

and ring into

place

3in

Step 12

The sustainer stage is the top stage of the rocket.

9. The sustainer motor mount tube is the longer

29mm diameter tube that is 7 inches (178mm) long.

Mark the tube with a pencil for the location of the cen-

tering rings. One mark should be 2 ⅝” from one end,

and the other is ⅛” from the opposite end.

10. Test t both large centering rings (29/2.6") onto the

motor mount tube. Sand the inside to adjust the t if

necessary. Then take one of the rings and place it on

the tube. Apply a ring of glue around the 2⅝” line mark-

ing and slide the ring onto the line.

11. Tie one end of the yellow shock cord near the 1/8"

line you drew in the previous step. Now put a thin line

of glue around the tube at the same marking. Before

the glue dries, thread the shock cord through the hole

in the remaining centering ring. Place the ring on the

tube and slide it over the glue. Pull the shock cord

tightly against the centering ring. Cover the shock cord

with a llet of glue. Allow the glue time to dry.

12. (Optional Engine Block) This step will put an

engine block in the motor mount of the sustainer

stage. If you plan on using composite motors in

this rocket, we suggest you skip this step, because

composite motors already have a motor block built

into them. Use a wood dowel to spread glue in the

motor mount. The band of glue should go approxi-

mately 3” (76mm) from the end where the yellow shock

cord is attached. Slide the green centering ring into

the motor mount, until it is centered in the glue. As a

check, if you insert an Estes 29mm motor into the tube,

the end of the motor should stick out ½” (12.7mm).

Wipe out any excess glue.

13. Temporarily pass the shock cord through the motor

mount and out the rear. This will keep it glue free

when gluing it into the sustainer tube. Using a wood

dowel, apply glue just forward of the n slots in the

sustainer tube. Also put a glue ring inside the tube on

the other side of the n slot (just before the end of the

tube). There is a small cutout in the sustainer tube

so you can gauge how far to put the glue. Quickly and

smoothly insert the motor mount into the aft end of the

sustainer tube. The edge of the aft wooden centering

ring should be centered in the slot just to the rear of

the n cutout. Wipe out any glue inside the back end of

the sustainer tube quickly. Any excess glue will make

it hard to insert the red coupler to join the two stages

together. Once the glue is dry, pull the shock cord back

through the motor mount and out of the front of the

sustainer tube.

Apply glue on inside of

line, slide ring into place

Pull cord snugly

against ring, add

glue fillets

Mark the tube at

these places

7in

Step 10

Step 11

Step 9

**Remove slotted pieces first**

Glue inside of the

long tube here

The aft centering ring will be

visible through

this slot

Aft centering ring will

be visible from this slot

in the tube

Step 13

Booster Fins

Sustainer Fins

Step 14

Page 3

Construction of the Sustainer Motor Mount

Attaching the ns

P/N 31106

14. Note that the tabs on the wooden ns are different

lengths, and are in different locations. The Booster

Fins have wider tabs, and they are closer to the bot-

tom edge of the n. Whereas the Sustainer Fins have

smaller tabs and they are closer to the top edge of the

ns. Use the diagram to the right to ensure that the ns

are glued into the correct body tubes.

Wood Glue

Mark coupler

at 2”

Put glue on the coupler

and then slide it into place

stopping at the mark you made

Payload tube

Tape

15. Apply glue to the root edges of one of the ns,

including on the base of the tab. To prevent dripping

allow the glue to dry slightly for a few minutes until

tacky. Then press the ns through the slots in the body

tube and rest them rmly against the motor mount in-

side. Allow them time to dry and then repeat this for the

remaining ns. You can temporarily insert the booster

stage into the rear of the sustainer stage in order to

visually align both sets of ns.

16. Strengthen ns with llets by applying a bead of

wood glue to both sides of each n-body tube joints.

Pull your nger along the joints to smooth out and re-

move the excess glue. Lay the tubes horizontally while

the glue dries. Repeat this process for all 6 ns.

17. Attach the launch lug with glue. Position it on the

rectangular hole located on the Sustainer Tube. After

the glue has dried, apply llets of glue along both sides

of the launch lug.

18. Apply glue to the threads of the metal screw eye,

and screw it into the plywood bulkhead. Do not twist

it in past the threads on the screw eye. Apply glue to

both sides of the bulkhead where it exits the hole.

19. Glue the bulkhead into the red tube coupler

(without the holes). Recess it slightly into the end of the

tube. When the glue has dried, put a llet of glue on

both sides of the bulkhead.

 20. Draw a line 2” (51mm) from the end of the coupler

(with the bulkhead) with a pencil as shown. Smear a

small amount of glue on the inside edge of the payload

tube. With one quick and smooth motion, slide the tube

coupler into the body tube until the pencil line is just in-

side the tube. Wipe off any excess glue that oozes out.

Be sure the tubes are aligned straight with each other.

21. Apply masking tape to the outside of the shoulder

of the nose cone to achieve a tight t into the payload

tube.

Apply wood glue

on both sides

Sustainer stage

tube

Launch lug

Place wood glue

fillet around the edges

Step 17 Step 18

Step 19

Step 20

Step 21

Step 22

Step 23

Step 25

Glue here

Inside of

tube

Step 15

Step 16

Page 4

22. Cut out the plastic parachute with a pair of scissors.

23. Place the ring tabs over the circles on each of the

points of the parachute, as shown in the illustration.

Next, poke holes in the center of the rings with a sharp-

ened pencil.

24. Find the shroud line and cut the string into four

equal lengths and tie them through the ring holes as

shown. Put a little bit of glue on the knots to secure

them in place. Allow the glue to dry.

Parachute Assembly

25. The rocket should be painted now to avoid getting

paint on the shock cord or payload bay. Once the

paint is dry you can add the provided decals. Feel free

to use your own design or match the design on the

packaging.

26. Tie the free end of the yellow shock cord to the

screw eye on the base of the payload bay. Put a little

bit of glue on the knot to secure it in place. Allow the

glue to dry.

27. Attach the parachute to the screw eye on the

forward red tube coupler, using the following method:

Hold the parachute at the center of its top, pull the lines

together to even up the ends. Thread the loop lines

through the screw eye on the payload section. Now

take the top of the parachute and pull it through all

the string loops. Then pull on the top of the canopy to

tighten the knot. This securely attaches the parachute

to the rocket.

28. Loosely crumple and insert 6 to 8 sheets of recovery

wadding into the body tube. (Not included with this

kit)

29. Fold parachute according to the diagram on the

right. Slide the parachute into the tube behind the

recovery wadding. Then slide the payload bay into the

main body tube.

30. Insert a sustainer engine in the sustainer stage.

Hold it into place by wrapping tape over the exposed

tube and the portion of the engine that sticks out the

back end of the sustainer stage.

31. Insert a booster engine into the booster stage the

same as you did with the sustainer engine by taping it

into place.

32. Slide the booster stage into the back of the sustain-

er stage.

33. Insert and secure the engine igniter as directed on

the package the engines came with. You only need to

put an igniter in the booster stage motor. The sustainer

motor is ignited by the booster motor during ight.

34. At this point, the assembly of the rocket is complete

and ready for ight. Follow the countdown and launch

procedures on the back of this page.

Booster Stage

Sustainer Stage Payload tube

Step 35

Tape sustainer engine in place Tape booster engine the same way

Step 28

Tape sustainer engine in place

Tape booster engine the same way

Step 30 Step 31

Fold in half, and

align the corners

Lay excess

lines on top Fold canopy

over lines

Fold tip down

one time Roll tightly

and slide into

tube

Fold in half again

aligning the corners

Fold sides inward, and

then in half to form a

triangle shape

Step 29

Pull Tight

Shock cord

Tie free end of shock cord

from the bottom tube

to this screw eye

Step 26 Step 27

Page 5

Prepping your rocket for ight

1. Fly your rocket on a large eld that isn’t near any power lines, trees, or low ying aircraft. The larger the eld, the great-

er your chances of recovering your rocket. The launch area around the pad must be free of dry weeds and brown grass.

Launch only during calm weather with very little or no wind and good visibility. Always use a launch pad that includes a

blast deector.

2. Remove the safety key from the launch controller

3. Slide the launch lugs onto the launch rail/rod to place the rocket on the pad. Test how smoothly the rocket goes up and

down the rail/rod. The rocket should slide freely over the rail/rod.

4. Attach the micro-clips to the igniter. The clips must not touch the other or the metal blast deector.

5. Stand back from your rocket as far as the launch wire allows (at least 9.14 meters - 30 feet)

6. Insert the safety key to arm the launch system. The light (or buzzer) on the controller should come on.

7. Give a loud countdown 5 ... 4 ... 3 ... 2 ... 1 ... LAUNCH!

8. Push and hold the button until the engine ignites. Then remove the safety key and place the safety cap on the launch

rod.

Misre Procedure

Occasionally the igniter will burn, but the motor will fail to ignite. If this happens, the cause is that the pyrogen on the igniter

was not in contact with the engines propellant. When an ignition failure occurs, remove the safety key from the launch control-

ler and wait 60 seconds before approaching the rocket. Remove the old igniter from the engine and install a new one. Make

sure that the igniter is insert fully into the engine and touches the propellant. Secure the igniter as directed on the engine

package and repeat the countdown and launch procedure.

Always follow the NAR* Model Rocket Safety Code when launching model rockets.

*National Association of Rocketry

**Kevlar® is a brand name of E.I. DuPont for their selection of aramid bers. Only DuPont makes Kevlar®

Countdown and launch procedure

Go online and order at www.ApogeeRockets.com or call us and

order at 719-535-9335. We’re available M-F: 9:00am-5:00pm MST

Need parts or Accessories to go along with this kit?

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