ECO-MATIC ESC 48 User manual

Warranty Station Service Manual - Table of Contents
Recommended Water Chemistry ....................Inside Front Cover
Recommended Pool Sizing Chart.....................Inside Front Cover
Table of Contents .............................................................. 1 Page
Manufacturer Date Codes, Salt Requirements .................. 1 Page
ECO-matic ESC Installation/Operating Instructions........24 Pages
ECO-matic ESC Service Instructions................................40 Pages
ECO-matic ESC Parts List / Parts Schematic ......................2 Pages
ECOsalt BMSC Service Instructions.................................28 Pages
ECOspa Service Instructions ...........................................24 Pages
Salt Chlorinator Spare Parts Guide ...................................8 Pages
Warranty Terms................................................Inside Back Cover
Typical Warranty Call Procedure ......................Inside Back Cover

Year JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC P cell
colors
2001 P AP BP CP DP EP FP GP HP IP JP KP LP Black
2002 O AO BO CO DO EO FO GO HO IO JO KO LO Dark Blue
2003 N AN BN CN DN EN FN GN HN IN JN KN LN Terracotta
2004 M AM BM CM DM EM FM GM HM IM JM KM LM Marigold
2005 L AL BL CL DL EL FL GL HL IL JL KL LL Green
2006 K AK BK CK DK EK FK GK HK IK JK KK LK Grey
2007 J AJ BJ CJ DJ EJ FJ GJ HJ IJ JJ KJ LJ Black
2008 I AI BI CI DI EI FI GI HI II JI KI LI Blue
2009 H AH BH CH DH EH FH GH HH IH JH KH LH Red
2010 G AG BG CG DG EG FG GG HG IG JG KG LG Yellow
Current Salt
Level (ppm) 10,000 13,000 16,000 19,000 22,000 25,000 28,000 31,000 34,000 37,000 40,000 43,000 46,000 49,000
0420 546 672 798 924 1050 1176 1302 1428 1554 1680 1806 1932 2058
250 399 519 638 758 878 998 1117 1237 1357 1476 1596 1716 1835 1955
500 378 491 605 718 832 945 1058 1172 1285 1399 1512 1625 1739 1852
750 357 464 571 678 785 893 1000 1107 1214 1321 1428 1535 1642 1749
1000 336 437 538 638 739 840 941 1042 1142 1243 1344 1445 1546 1646
1250 315 410 504 599 693 788 882 977 1071 1166 1260 1355 1449 1544
1500 294 382 470 559 647 735 823 911 1000 1088 1176 1264 1352 1441
1750 273 355 437 519 601 683 764 846 928 1010 1092 1174 1256 1338
2000 252 328 403 479 554 630 706 781 857 932 1008 1084 1159 1235
2250 231 300 370 439 508 578 647 716 785 855 924 993 1063 1132
2500 210 273 336 399 462 525 588 651 714 777 840 903 966 1029
2750 189 246 302 359 416 473 529 586 643 699 756 813 869 926
3000 168 218 269 319 370 420 470 521 571 622 672 722 773 823
3250 147 191 235 279 323 368 412 456 500 544 588 632 676 720
3500 126 164 202 239 277 315 353 391 428 466 504 542 580 617
3750 105 137 168 200 231 263 294 326 357 389 420 452 483 515
4000 84 109 134 160 185 210 235 260 286 311 336 361 386 412
4250 63 82 101 120 139 158 176 195 214 233 252 271 290 309
4500 42 55 67 80 92 105 118 130 143 155 168 181 193 206
4750 21 27 34 40 46 53 59 65 71 78 84 90 97 103
5000 0000000000000 0
ECO-MATIC DATE CODE STAMP DESIGNATIONS
POUNDS OF SALT NEEDED TO REACH 5,000 PPM
Gallons of Pool Water
Date Code Stamp on the cell can be found on the plastic cell head support housing between the terminals
Date Code Stamp on the power center can be found on the silver decal on the right exterior of the box

Installation
and
Operating Instructions
ESC 16
ESC 24
ESC 36
ESC 48
FOR MODELS:
TM

2
Table of Contents
Packing List ................................................................ 2
Welcome from ECO-matic.......................................... 3
Overview of the ECO-matic System........................... 3
Your ECO-matic Equipment ....................................... 3
Installation Check List................................................. 4
Understanding the ECO-matic System....................... 4
Controls and Display Panel ........................................ 5
Start Up ...................................................................... 5
Digital Display............................................................. 5
Indicators - What They Mean ..................................... 6
Operation of the ESC Models..................................... 6
Stand-by Indicator ...................................................... 7
Flow Indicator ............................................................. 7
System Control (Output Control) ................................ 7
Low Salinity Indicator and Cut-Out............................. 8
Winter Mode ............................................................... 8
Gas Sensor................................................................. 9
Day-to-Day Operation of Your ECO-matic.................. 9
Shocking the Pool....................................................... 9
Your ECO-matic product consists of the following components.
Please conrm that you have all components when attempting to install your ECO-matic.
1 – Power Pack (Please conrm the Input Voltage is as ordered – 220-240V or 110V)
1 – Cell (Including clear plastic Cell Housing)
1 – Pack containing Mounting Screws, Wall Plugs and Spare Fuses
Maintenance of Your ECO-matic ........................... 9-11
Maintenance of the Water ........................................ 12
Water Testing - What to Test For ......................... 13-14
Trouble Shooting ...................................................... 14
Important Safety Instruction - USA........................... 15
Important Safety Instruction - Canada...................... 15
Installation Summary................................................ 16
The Components of Your ECO-matic ....................... 16
Before Installing Your ECO-matic............................. 17
Choosing the ‘CELL’ Location ................................. 17
Installing the ‘CELL HOUSING’ ................................ 18
Installing the ‘POWER PACK’................................... 18
Connecting ‘POWER PACK’ to Power Supply.......... 19
Adding Salt to Your Pool........................................... 20
Installation Check List............................................... 20
Installation Trouble-Shooting.................................... 20
Start-Up Procedure................................................... 21
Warranty Details ....................................................... 21
Packing List

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Welcome to the healthy luxury of a salt water swimming pool
We at ECO-matic are dedicated to providing you with the most luxurious, healthy, ‘natural’ pool water you have ever
experienced, as well as the most reliable product and the best after-sales service you could hope for.
Reading this Guide will help ensure that your ECO-matic system functions correctly and efciently, help avoid the
expense of unnecessary service calls and make you aware of certain maintenance procedures which, if left undone,
may void warranties offered by the manufacturer. Please refer to the Trouble-Shooting section of this Guide if you are
experiencing problems.
Overview of the ECO-matic Salt Water Pool System
When pool salt is dissolved in pool water and then subjected to simple electrolysis (by way of the in-line ECO-matic
‘Cell’), the chloride portion of the salt (sodium chloride) is transformed into an effective sanitizer,* which has the ability
to oxidize (kill) bacteria, virus, algae and other such radicals which would otherwise ourish in the water. This process is
reversible, so does not consume the salt, which is simply used over and over again.
Sized to suit your particular pool or spa, your ECO-matic system will provide all of the sanitizer necessary to maintain
your pool/spa water in perfectly healthy condition, in an environmentally-perfect manner, by using and recycling a natural
product – salt. Your ECO-matic will do exactly the same thing as ‘pool chlorine’ would do, but without the need to add (or
swim in) potentially harmful, toxic man-made sanitizing chemicals.
*(HOCl the same effective sanitizer as would result if ‘pool chlorine’ was added to the water – but without the potentially
dangerous chlorine compounds and the obnoxious ‘chemical’ effects commonly associated with manual chlorination –
and without the need to handle chemicals.)
Your ECO-matic Equipment
When correctly installed, your ECO-matic will operate ONLY WHEN THE FILTER PUMP IS OPERATING and water is
owing through the ‘Cell’. Your ECO-matic must not be able to operate while the lter pump is OFF. If your ECO-matic
continues to operate after the lter pump is switched OFF (as indicated by bubbling and cloudiness at the ‘Cell’), contact
your ECO-matic dealer or the person who installed your ECO-matic immediately and ensure that the fault is rectied.

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Installation Check List
Your ECO-matic installation is complete when the following have been completed:
• ‘Cell Housing’ installed into plumbing.
• ‘Cell Housing’ must be mounted ‘horizontally’.
• ‘Cell Housing’ should be located downstream from lter, heater and all other accessories, and before any spa valve.
• Water ow direction should be away from the head of the ‘Cell’ in poor ow rate conditions.
• ‘Cell’ properly in place in ‘Cell Housing’.
• ‘Power Pack’ mounted in place.
• ‘Power Pack’ connected to main power (be sure your 220/240V or 110V ECO-matic is connected to correct voltage).
• You must check and conrm that your ECO-matic ‘Power Pack’ switches ON and OFF in time with the lter pump.
• ‘Power Pack’ connected to ‘Cell’ (including the Gas-Sensor connection).
• Sufcient salt dissolved into pool water.
Understanding the ECO-matic System
Your ECO-matic uses the dissolved salt in the water to produce the sanitizer necessary to maintain your pool/spa water in
a safe and healthy condition.
The amount of sanitizer produced by the ECO-matic and the quantity of salt (the salinity) in the water are related, but
must be maintained and controlled as two separate factors:
Sanitizer:
The amount of sanitizer required for your pool varies from time to time and depends upon a number of variables,
including the number of swimmers in the pool, water temperature, etc.
To determine whether your ECO-matic is producing sufcient sanitizer for YOUR pool/spa, the sanitizer level in the
pool/spa must be measured using a normal ‘chlorine’ Test Kit. The sanitizer level in the water can then be adjusted up
or down as desired, by adjusting the quantity of sanitizer being produced by the ECO-matic (refer to System Control).
Low sanitizer levels should not be confused with a low salt level, and adding more salt will not necessarily increase the
sanitizer level. The salt level should be controlled and maintained separately – see below.
Salt Level (Salinity):
Your ECO-matic will indicate (Control Panel) whether the salt level in the water has fallen below the desired minimum
operating level. The system will continue to produce sanitizer in low salt conditions (but at a decreased rate, and only
until the automatic Cut-Out applies) but low salt conditions cause increased wear on the ‘Cell’ and will shorten the
life of the ‘Cell’. When your ECO-matic indicates a Low Salt condition, add salt to the water to correct the situation.
Measure and control sanitizer levels separately, as described above.
Note: Never add salt in order to increase sanitizer level. Only add salt, as necessary, to maintain minimum salt level.
The Amount of Sanitizer Produced by ECO-matic Depends Upon:
a) The daily operating time of the equipment (pump/lter and ECO-matic). Suggested operating times vary depending
on weather conditions, pool usage, etc (as little as 4 hrs in winter, to 8-12 hrs in summer or more in certain adverse
conditions).
b) The System Control setting (high or low)
c) The condition of the ECO-matic ‘Cell’ (clean or dirty) The rate of sanitizer production will decrease as the ‘Cell’
accumulates scale (calcium, etc), or if the salt level in the water decreases and, in time, as the ‘Cell’ nears the end
of its life.
Note: Your Test Kit is your ONLY INDICATOR of whether your ECO-matic is producing sufcient, too little, or too much
sanitizer for your pool.
If your ECO-matic is producing TOO MUCH SANITIZER, turn the System Control DOWN, or reduce the daily
operating time (being sure to maintain at least the minimum recommended daily ltering time).
If your ECO-matic is producing TOO LITTLE SANITIZER, turn the System Control UP, or increase the daily operating
time of the equipment (and refer to trouble-shooting, including stabilizer/conditioner level).

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Controls and Display Panel
The rate at which your ECO-matic produces (sanitizer for your pool) varies (see below) and is indicated on the DIGITAL
DISPLAY (Eg: 90 – 100 or in winter mode 75 – 85).
There are two lights on the Control Panel – LED 1 and LED 2 – which will indicate whether the system is working as
intended or whether there may be faulty or damaging operating conditions (such as low salt levels). If these warnings are
ignored, the Unit will either Cut-Out OR otherwise, continued operation will result in damage to the ‘Cell’.
Start Up
1. Turn the POWER ON (rst time only). Power setting “1”. Switch lter pump ON. ECO-matic power switch can then
be left ON and lter power control will also control the ECO-matic.
2. The unit will enter a START-UP PHASE (which will repeat itself at the start of each ltration period). The STANDBY
light will be ON, but there will be no ‘Cell’ output (sanitizer production).
3. After the Start-Up delay, the DISPLAY should indicate around 90 – 105 (unless set in the Winter Mode). With the
correct amount of salt added and dissolved, both LED 1 and LED 2 will be GREEN. If LED 2 is RED, there is
insufcient salt in the pool.
See the table on the page 6 for other installation related problems.
Digital Display
The DIGITAL DISPLAY indicates how the ECO-matic is performing, compared to its maximum design output. 90(%) –
100(%) range is common. Normal Winter Mode readings 75 – 85.

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Indicators – What They Mean
Output readings on the DIGITAL DISPLAY can fall due to any (or combination of) the following: cooler water
temperatures, warming of power pack (in heated equipment rooms for example), lower than normal power voltage, low
salt levels, scaling occurring on ‘Cell’.
Provided LED 1 and LED 2 are both GREEN ( and the ‘Cell’ is not scaling excessively), your ECO-matic is performing
(producing) satisfactorily.
Indicator Display LED 1 LED 2 What’s Happening
STAND-BY ON Blank Green Green 1. Unit is in start-up mode.
2. ‘Cell’ is in OFF cycle during normal operation.
(refer System Control)
3. System Control set at MIN.
FLOW ON Blank Green Green 1. Insufcient ow through ‘Cell’ (gas or air at STAND-BY ON
‘Cell’, check pump/pipes for damage, leaks).
2. Gas Sensor lead not connected to ‘Cell’.
3. System is wired incorrectly.
Approx 90-100 Green Green System operating normally.
Approx 90-100 Green Red 1. ‘Cell’ is dirty, scale build-up. Clean ‘Cell’.
2. Water temperature cold. Switch to Winter Mode.
3. Salt Level below minimum. Add salt.
4. ‘Cell’ failing. Test and/or replace ‘Cell’.
Varying Red Red Unit preparing to Cut-Out. (see Low Salinity Indicator and
Cut-Out)
1. ‘Cell’ is dirty, scale build-up. Clean ‘Cell’.
2. Water temperature cold. Switch to Winter Mode.
3. Salt Level below minimum. Add salt.
4. ‘Cell’ failing. Test and/or replace ‘Cell’.
STAND-BY ON Blank Red Red System Protection activated. Unit has Cut-Out.
Follow above procedures
WINTER MODE ON Approx 75-85 Green Green System operating normally - in Winter Mode.
Only operate in Winter Mode if water is very cold.
Red LED(s): Scaled ‘Cell’ or Low Salt Level.
Operation of the ESC Models
The ESC Models have the following features:
a) Polarity Indicator: The + or - symbol appears before the Digital Output Display, to indicate the polarity in which
the system is operating (i.e. positive or negative direction of ‘Cell’ current). The symbol will alternate according to
pre-set factory settings and does not effect the normal operation of the unit.
b) System Control: When the System Control is being adjusted, the ESC units will indicate (ashing) the percentage
of time that the ‘Cell’ will operate during the ltration cycle (for a few seconds, then display reverts to ‘Cell’ Output
display).
c) ‘Cell’ Cleaning: The ESC units use a patented Electronic Auto-Cleaning system for the ‘Cell’. ‘Cells’ may eventually
scale in extreme hard water conditions and will require manual cleaning if this occurs.
d) The second Low Salinity warning phase (Red + Red LED’s) is very short. Therefore on rst warning phase (Red +
Green LED’s) prompt action is recommended to avoid Cut-Out.

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Stand-by Indicator
The Stand-By indicator will be ON when the Unit is preparing to produce sanitizer. This will be either during the system’s
initial Start-Up or when the ‘Cell’ is in an OFF cycle during the ltration cycle (refer System Control). Stand-By indicator
can also be ON after System Protection Cut-Out has activated. (ie: when unit has shut down).
Flow Indicator
If there is a problem with water ow or gas is detected in the ‘Cell Housing’ the Flow indicator will be ON. When this
occurs the pump or pipes should be inspected for damage and the Gas Sensor on the ‘Cell’ checked for correct
connection (and scale build-up on bolt head of Gas Sensor).
System Control (Output Control)
The System Control allows you to control the amount of sanitizer to be produced during any ltration cycle (lter
operating time).
The setting on the System Control determines the amount of time for which the ECO-matic will operate during the ltration
cycle. The System Control dial is graduated approximately as follows: 0% (MIN), 20%, 40%, 60%, 80%, (MAX) 100%.
The System Control will not vary the rate at which the ‘Cell’ will produce sanitizer (as indicated on the DISPLAY), just the
‘time’ for which the ECO-matic will produce sanitizer. For example:
Daily Filter System Control Hours of
Operating Time Setting Sanitizer Production
8 hours 60% 4.8 hours (60% of 8 hours)
12 hours 20% 2.4 hours (20% of 12 hours)
8 hours 100% 8 hours (100% of 8 hours)
6 hours 50% (halfway) 3 hours (50% of 6 hours)
When the System Control is set to MIN, the ‘Cell’ will be OFF for the duration
of the ltration cycle.
When the System Control is set to MAX, the ‘Cell’ will be ON for the full duration
of the ltration cycle.
The System Control is graduated in steps of 20% from MIN (OFF) to MAX (ON).
Note: If the ECO-matic is controlled by ORP chemical automation, turn the control knob to MAX.
During any ltration cycle, when the System Control is set between MIN and MAX, the ‘Cell’ will be turned ON and OFF
a number of times each hour. Using the previous example (of 60%), the ‘Cell’ will operate for about 36 minutes each hour.
This 36 minute operating time will be made up of a number of smaller operating periods. As an example, the ‘Cell’ may
turn ON 12 times (for a period of 3 minutes each time) to make up the 36 minutes. This enables the electronic circuitry to
re-adjust to any changes in the pool water condition. For example, dilution from winter rains, the addition of salt, etc.
If the ‘Cell’ is OFF and you wish to check its operation, simply turn the System Control to MAX and the ’Cell’ will turn ON.
Once checked, adjust the System Control back to the desired position and after a few minutes the ‘Cell’ will turn OFF
again. To turn the ‘Cell’ OFF, simply turn the System Control to MIN. This will be convenient when backwashing lter.

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Low Salinity Indicator and Cut-Out
Your ECO-matic is tted with a number of protective features including the Low Salinity Indicator and a Cut-Out feature.
As the salt level in the pool decreases, the wear on the ‘Cell’ increases. Although salt is not consumed in the ECO-matic
process, it is lost through splashing, back-washing and on bathers as they leave the pool. The salt level is also reduced
by rain, which causes dilution. Salt is not lost to evaporation. As the salt level in the pool falls toward the minimum, LED
2 will turn RED. At this point the salt level should be increased by adding approximately 50 lbs of salt per 5000 gallons
of water. If no action is taken and the salt level continues to fall, the Low Salinity Cut-Out will activate and LED 1 will
also turn RED. It is advisable to satisfy yourself that the salt level is in fact low, prior to adding salt, as LEDs 1 and 2 can
activate for reasons other than ‘low salt’. Salt Tests Strips can be used to conrm the salt level in the water. If you have
no means of measuring salt level, add the suggested amount of salt and dissolve it by vacuuming or sweeping onto oor
drain. If the LED indicators do not change, the salt level in the water MUST be measured prior to adding additional salt
(take a sample to your local ECO-matic Dealer for testing). This will prevent adding too much salt when ‘low salt’ may not
be the problem.
When the Cut-Out feature activates, the ECO-matic will no longer produce sanitizer, but will switch itself ON a number of
times each hour and assess whether the problem(s) (low salt for example) have been corrected. If the problem still exists,
the unit will switch OFF once again.
Other factors which can activate the Cut-Out feature:
1. Heavy Rain - can cause very dilute pool water to pass over the ‘Cell’ due to surface skimming. The Unit will turn
back ON after the rain has been mixed into the water unless the salt level has been reduced by dilution/overow.
2. Scaled ‘Cell’ - a scaled ‘Cell’ will not draw as much electrical current as a clean ‘Cell’ when rst started. This will
cause the Cut-Out to operate. This is very benecial as a scaled ‘Cell’ can cause an overload if it is operated for a
few hours. Heavy scale build-up also increases the wear on the ‘Cell’.
3. Cold Water - cold pool water reduces the ability of a ‘Cell’ to carry electrical current. (Refer Winter Mode below).
4. Failing ‘Cell’ - as ‘Cell’ ages there will come a time when the electrical current draw will drop. This can be
compensated for with the addition of extra salt. A ‘Cell’ is considered failed when it draws less than 80% of
maximum current. To keep a failed ‘Cell’ in operation, Winter Mode can be used along with extra salt. There will
come a time when the ‘Cell’ will not respond to either extra salt or Winter Mode. It will then need to be replaced.
Winter Mode
When the ‘Cell’ draws electrical current from the Power Supply, the amount of current drawn is dependent upon a number
of factors. Two of these factors are Salinity and Water Temperature.
The Low Salinity Indicator and/or Cut-Out on your ECO-matic are designed to operate at swimming season water
temperatures. When the pool begins to cool in the off season the temperature drop causes the ‘Cell’ to behave differently
– it will draw less electrical current. This can cause the Low Salinity Indicator and/or Cut-Out to assume that the salinity
has fallen even if the salinity has remained relatively constant.
When the temperature of the pool water drops (typically when it is too cold to swim), the Winter Mode Switch should be
placed in the ON position. The Winter Mode Indicator will then be ON.
Winter Mode setting has two effects:
1. It alters the setting of the Low Salinity Indicator and/or Cut-Out.
2. It reduces the Cell Output by approximately 15%.
The Unit will now respond to a cold pool environment. Winter Mode should not be used in the swimming season as it
reduces the Cell Output, leading to less sanitizer, and it alters the setting of the Low Salinity Indicator and/or Cut-Out,
which could lead to premature ‘Cell’ failure.

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Gas Sensor
The smaller of the three leads which connect to the ‘Cell’ head is the Gas Sensor. Whenever the head of the Gas Sensor
bolt loses contact with the water (due to gas or air pocket in ‘Cell’, or scale build-up on sensor bolt head), your ECO-matic
will Cut-Out.
Day to Day Operation of ECO-matic
Your ECO-matic must operate daily in order to produce sufcient sanitizer for your pool. In average summer weather
conditions, with average family use of a pool, the daily operating time should be as recommended by your lter
manufacturer or pool maintenance person - in average summer climates usually 6 - 8 hours per day, but in hot climates
and if pool is heavily used as much as 12 or 14 (or more) hours per day. Your TEST KIT is the ONLY means of
determining whether your ECO-matic is producing sufcient sanitizer for your pool.
It is suggested that the daily operating time be broken down into 2 sessions – one in the early morning and one in the late
afternoon, early evening. This will optimize the effectiveness of the sanitizer which the ECO-matic produces.
Always operate the pool lter and ECO-matic while the pool is being used.
Shocking the Pool
Periodically, especially in very hot climates and if the pool is heavily used, it may be necessary to boost the amount of
sanitizer in the pool in order to maintain absolute sanitation of the water. This can be achieved simply by operating the
ECO-matic for an extended period (say 24 hours) with the System Control set at MAXIMUM.
Maintenance of Your ECO-matic
The ‘Power Pack’
The POWER PACK should require very little (if any) maintenance. However, damage to certain components may result
from improper maintenance of the ‘Cell’ (see below). Always ensure that the POWER PACK is located in a well ventilated
area free of corrosive fumes from any acid or chemical containers in the vicinity.
Important Note: The two most important maintenance requirements for your ECO-matic are:
1. Cleaning the ‘Cell’ and
2. Maintaining sufcient salt level in the pool.
The ‘Cell’
Maintenance of the ‘Cell’ is quite simple, but very important. ECO-matic ‘Cells’ are comprised of expensive materials and
even with proper care and maintenance the delicate coating on the ‘Cell’ anode will eventually wear away and the ‘Cell’
will ‘die’ and will no longer be able to produce sufcient sanitizer for the pool. Proper care (and cleaning) will ensure the
maximum life for the ‘Cell’. Operating your ‘Cell’ on lower-than-recommended salt levels will shorten ‘Cell’ life and void
‘Cell’ warranties.
Cell Life
The life expectancy of ECO-matic ‘Cells’ may vary considerably from one installation to the next, due to variations in daily
operating time, water quality and composition, system and ‘Cell’ maintenance.
The ESC48 and ESC24 models use the same size ‘Cell’. However, due to the increased ‘Cell’ output of the ESC48, its
‘Cell’ will have a shorter life than that of the ESC24.
Please ensure that when it is time to replace your ‘Cell’, you use only ECO-matic replacement ‘Cells. The use of
imitations (or copies) of the ECO-matic ‘Cell’ may harm the internal components of your ECO-matic Power Pack
and may void warranties.

10
Maintenance of Your ECO-matic (Continued)
Cleaning The ‘Cell’
Mineral salts, calcium, etc. (scale) will accumulate onto the ‘Cell’ and may effect the efciency of the ‘Cell’ in its production
of sanitizer. If allowed to build up unchecked, this scale can damage the ‘Cell’. It is therefore essential that the ‘Cell’ be
cleaned whenever necessary, as indicated by visual inspection, a drop in Output and/or RED LED(s).
The rate at which the scale accumulates on the ‘Cell’ varies from pool to pool and is inuenced mostly by the Total
Hardness, Total Alkalinity and the ratio of these two important components of water balance. Rapid scaling on the ‘Cell’
indicates the need to adjust either the Total Hardness and/or the Total Alkalinity of the pool water (refer to Maintenance of
the Water).
Removing The ‘Cell’ For Cleaning
The ‘Cell’ leads connect to the ‘Cell’ Head with push-in bayonet type connectors.
Simply twist and pull each connector to disconnect. The Gas Sensor lead is a
push-on connection – simply pull to disconnect. Do not attempt to remove by pulling
on the wires. Be sure to color-match the connectors when reconnecting.
If a ‘Cell’ Head Cover is tted to your ‘Cell’ it can be removed by undoing the screws
which holds it in place.
How To Clean The ‘Cell’
• Turn OFF lter pump before attempting to clean the ‘Cell’.
• Remove the ‘Cell’ from the ‘Cell Housing’ by unscrewing the ‘Cell’ Head (Note: left-hand thread. Turn in direction of
‘OPEN’ arrow on ‘Cell’ Housing).
• Immerse the ‘Cell’ into the weak acid solution (see below) for as short a time as necessary for the scale to be dissolved
off the ‘Cell’
• If necessary, remove the ‘Cell’ from the weak acid solution, brush with a soft brush (never use a metal brush) to help
remove stubborn scale, then re-immerse into the weak acid solution. Repeat until ‘Cell’ is completely clean of scale.
• Remember to also clean scale off head of Gas Sensor bolt (on inside of ‘Cell’ head).
• Either rinse the acid solution off the ‘Cell’ using fresh water, or immediately replace the ‘Cell’ into the ‘Cell Housing and
start the lter (so the pool water rinses the ‘Cell’).
NEVER tap or knock the ‘Cell’ against hard objects to help remove scale. ‘Cell’ will break.
NEVER clean the ‘Cell’ in undiluted acid solution (always dilute in water – see below).
NEVER
leave the ‘Cell’ immersed for long periods in the acid solution (remove and rinse as soon as scale is removed).
When re-inserting the ‘Cell’ into the ‘Cell Housing’, ensure that the O-ring is in place (seated in the groove in the ‘Cell’
Head). If it is difcult to have the O-ring stay in its groove, apply lube gel to O-ring, then re-t into groove. Do not over-
tighten the ‘Cell’ (hand tight is OK).
Weak Acid Solution
Add 10 parts water to the ‘Cell’ cleaning container, then add 1 part acid (pool acid, muriatic acid) to the water, to a total
depth which allows all of the ‘Cell’ mesh to be immersed.
Warning: NEVER add water-to-acid. ALWAYS add acid-to-water
The weak acid solution can be stored in a safe place (where children cannot access it) and re-used several times before
becoming ineffective (saves having to make the solution each time). Avoid getting the acid
solution on skin or in your eyes. If you accidentally do so, wash off immediately with fresh
water (or use the pool/spa water).
Please do not hesitate to contact your ECO-matic Dealer for any assistance regarding
‘Cell’ cleaning.

11
Maintenance of Your ECO-matic (Continued)
Maintaining The Salt Level
The optimum salt levels for best chlorinator efciency is 4500-5000ppm. It is important to always maintain at least the
minimum recommended salt level of 3500ppmin the pool water. Always monitor and maintain the optimum salt level for
your ECO-matic model.
Operating your ECO-matic at lower than recommended salinity level will shorten the life of your ‘Cell’ and will void
warranties on the ‘Cell’. An excess of salt (up to 6000 ppm) is acceptable and will not harm the ECO-matic (in fact, the
system operates more efciently at higher salt levels).
Checking The Salt Level
Your ECO-matic has a Low Salt Indicator (LED 2). When the level of salt in the water falls below the minimum level,
LED 2 will turn RED. The Unit will continue to produce sanitizer, but the situation should be corrected quickly. Otherwise
the Low Salinity Cut-Out will shut down the ECO-matic.
The Low Salt Indicator (LSI) has been factory calibrated (plus or minus) to a salt level 3000 ppm so could therefore
activate at slightly higher salinity than the designed minimum salinity. If the LSI activates when you think there is sufcient
salt in the water, a physical test kit measurement of the salinity is necessary.
Salt Test Kits
Various ‘salt’ test kits are available, and less expensive salt test strips can be purchased from your local pool professional.
Some pool shops will test your salt levels.
How Salt Is Lost From Your Pool
The ECO-matic process does not consume the salt – it merely re-uses it over and over. No salt is lost through
evaporation. However, salt is lost from the pool when water is lost – back-ushing lter, splash-out, overow in rainy
periods, leaks in the pool.
Adding Salt To The Water
Pool salt (sodium chloride) is available in bags of various sizes from your local pool professional. Call your ECO-matic
Dealer if you need assistance in locating a source of salt.
Add the salt by tipping it directly into the pool. Dissolve by sweeping the salt to the deep-end oor drain and/or by
vacuuming the pool. The heavier-than-water saline ‘syrup’ will remain on the oor of the pool if not mixed properly.
Note: Some ECO-matic owners nd it convenient to add 5 - 10 lbs of salt after each back-ushing of the lter.
How Much Top-up Salt To Add
When topping-up the salt level, we suggest adding salt at the rate of approx 100 lb per 10,000 gallons of water.
Remember: A slight excess of salt is not a problem, but too little salt causes damage to the ‘Cell’. When the added salt is
dissolved, check that LED 2 remains GREEN. Measure the salinity if in doubt. DO NOT continue to add salt if LED 1 and/
or LED 2 remain RED. Measure salinity before adding more salt to prevent over-salting the pool.

12
Maintenance of the Water
You should always be sure that your pool water is ‘in balance’. The person who maintains the pool should already be
checking and adjusting the water for the following. If you need verication of any of the following, take a water sample to
your local ECO-matic Dealer for testing.
Adding ‘chemicals’ To Your Pool
Your ECO-matic will eliminate the need for you to add ‘pool chlorine’, algaecides and ‘shock’ chemicals to the water.
Many pool owners and pool service people are in the habit of ‘shocking’ their pool water periodically, but this is no longer
necessary with ECO-matic and we advise against adding such chemicals (including copper-based algaecides, non-
chlorine shock, etc). If the need to add ‘pool chlorine’ should ever arise, you can do so without risk of harming your ECO-
matic equipment.
In the event that your sanitizer level has fallen too low, or that you feel a need to ‘shock’ the pool, simply let your ECO-
matic operate at MAX output for an extended time (say for 24 hours).
Conditioner/Stabilizer
It is important to maintain 50 - 80 ppm of conditioner (cyanuric acid) in the pool water, in order to prevent sunlight from
destroying the sanitizer (especially important in hot, sunny areas). If the conditioner level is too low you will nd it difcult
to maintain a good residual of sanitizer in the water – and your ECO-matic will need to work twice as hard as it would if
the conditioner level was correct.
pH Level
Pool water pH should be maintained in the range 7.2 - 7.8. At higher pH levels, the sanitizer loses its effectiveness,
allowing algae growth etc even though your Test Kit may indicate sufcient sanitizer in the water. If you have difculty
maintaining the pH in the correct range, this is an indication that the Total Alkalinity (TA) is not at the correct level. It is
always necessary to bring the TA within the correct range before pH can be properly maintained.
Total Alkalinity (TA)
(TA) determines the speed and ease of pH change. TA can also greatly effect the frequency of having to clean the ECO-
matic ‘Cell’. The ideal range for TA is generally 80 - 120 ppm, but really depends upon the Total Hardness (TH) of the
water and should be set at the level which suits the TH of your pool. The harder the water in a pool, the lower the TA
should be. Your TA is correct when the pH becomes stable and easy to maintain.
If the TA is TOO LOW If the TA is TOO HIGH
pH ‘bounce’ Almost constant acid demand
Stains on plaster walls Promotes ‘Cell’ scaling
Etching of plaster walls
Corrosion of metal parts
Total Hardness (TH)
The Total Hardness (not just calcium hardness) if too high, can promote rapid scaling of the ECO-matic ‘Cell’. TH also
determines the desired level of TA.
General Rule: If the pool water TH is greater than 500 ppm and is at least 300 ppm above the TH of the ll water (tap
water) - then dump the water and re-ll the pool.
Warning: Be aware that pools in high water-table areas should not be emptied without rst consulting your pool
builder or pool service.
Note: All water balance parameters (Hardness, conditioner/stabilizer, pH, TA) should be maintained within the normal
recommended ranges.

13
Water Testing • What to Test For • Recommended Levels
Sanitizer (or ‘chlorine’)
Recommended Level 1.0 - 3.0 ppm
How to Test Normal ‘chlorine’ Test Kit (free-chlorine test)
Frequency of Testing Test and adjust daily, initially, until you achieve consistent readings. Then test at least weekly,
or whenever pool conditions or usage changes.
How to Adjust Use the ECO-matic System Control (and/or vary lter operating time, being sure to run lter
at least the recommended daily hours).
Why Sanitizer? Micro organisms, germs, algae want to grow in your pool water. Correct sanitizer levels (in
combination with other various levels) prevent the growth of such radicals and will maintain
your pool water in a healthy and safe condition.
Sanitizer Demand The amount of sanitizer required for your pool varies from time to time, depending upon such
factors as: the number of swimmers, water temperature, pool environment, hours of sunlight.
Total Alkalinity (TA)
Recommended Range 80 - 120 ppm. Note: Or follow the advice of our pool maintenance person and/or the
contractor who plastered your pool.
Correct level Depends upon the Total Hardness of the water. The harder the water, the lower the TA
should be kept. Check with your local pool service or pool supply store.
How to Test Normal 4-in-1 pool Test Kit. If your Test Kit does not have a TA Test, have your water tested
by your local pool store.
Frequency of Testing After initial adjustment, check every couple of weeks.
How to Adjust There are various methods of adjusting TA. Check with your local pool service or pool supply
store. Lowering TA is achieved by addition of ‘acid’. TA can be raised by adding sodium
bicarbonate (baking soda).
Why TA is Important TA determines the speed and ease of pH change (if you get the TA correct, pH control will
become very simple). TA level effects the frequency of ‘Cell’ scaling.
High TA Makes pH maintenance difcult. Increases potential for scale to form on ‘Cell’, on pool walls, etc.
Low TA Causes etching, staining of plaster pool walls, corrodes metals, makes pH control very difcult.
pH Level
Recommended Range 7.2 - 7.8
How to Test Normal pool Test Kit
Frequency of Testing If the Total Alkalinity (TA) is within the correct range for your pool, the pH will become
more stable - reducing the need to test frequently. Test at least weekly. If pH always needs
adjusting, check and adjust TA.
How to Adjust Lower pH by adding ‘pool acid’ (muriatic acid). Disperse acid by pouring into water around
perimeter of pool. Raise pH using baking soda.
Why pH is Important Properly maintained pH means much fewer pool problems. High pH reduces sanitizer
efciency (makes it more difcult for the sanitizer to do its job) and increases scaling (on
‘Cell’ and on pool walls etc). Low pH will cause etching of plaster pool walls, corrodes metal
components, stains pool walls, eye irritation, destruction of Alkalinity.
Conditioner, Stabilizer (Cyanuric acid)
Recommended Range 50 - 80 ppm (may vary in some areas)
How to Test Some pool Test Kits include this Test. You can also purchase a Cyanuric Acid Test Kit, or
have your pool service test for you, or take a water sample to your local pool supply store.
Frequency of Testing Once or twice per year is normal. More frequently if water is lost from pool by way of leaks,
splash-outs, etc.

14
Water Testing • What to Test For • Recommended Levels (Continued)
Why Conditioner? Low levels of conditioner causes loss of sanitizer, especially in sunny locations. Low
conditioner levels mean your ECO-matic will have to work harder (produce more sanitizer)
in order to achieve and maintain correct sanitizer levels. Indoor pools need very low or no
conditioner, stabilizer, or cyanuric acid (some states have prohibited it’s use on indoor pools),
check with your local health department or pool supply store.
How to Adjust Add cyanuric acid to the water. Get instructions as to how to add conditioner from your pool
service or local pool supply store. Give 48 hours to dissolve, don’t backush lter too soon.
Alternative is to dissolve into warm water and pour into pool. Another idea – get your pool
service to do it.
Total Hardness (TH)
Ideal Range Concrete and Tiled Pools: 200-275ppm. Other surfaces: 100-225ppm
How to Test Some pool Test Kits include this Test. You can purchase Total Hardness Test Kits.
Frequency of Testing The water used to ll your pool has its own TH, depending upon its source. Over time, the
TH of the pool water will increase as the Hardness is left in the pool when water evaporates.
Fill water adds more Hardness. Test at least once or twice per year.
When to adjust TH If the TH of the pool water is greater than 500 ppm, and is 300 ppm above the TH of the ll
water, it is recommended that you dump the water and re-ll the pool.
How to Adjust TH Replacing the water is the only way to reduce the TH of the pool water. Be sure to consult
your pool builder or pool service before emptying your pool. Serious structural damage can
result if pools are emptied in certain ground conditions and ground water levels.
Calcium Hardness Always maintain calcium hardness within the range suggested by your pool builder or pool
service.
Phosphates
Phosphates in swimming pool water can reduce the level and effectiveness of sanitizer in pools, causing the ECO-matic
to work harder than necessary; any amount (over 50 ppb) of phosphate should be removed by using a phosphate-
removing chemical available at your local pool supple. We recommend having your pool water tested for phosphates
annually to insure good performance and long cell life.
Trouble Shooting
ECO-matic Not Working
1. No power getting to ‘Power Pack’ (Main power
OFF).
2. ECO-matic switched OFF.
3. System Control set to MIN.
4. Blown fuse(s).
5. Gas Sensor Lead not connected securely. Scale
build-up on Gas Sensor bolt head.
6. ECO-matic has Cut-out – insufcient Salt in
the water, or ‘Cell’ needs cleaning, or water
temperature cold.
7. ‘Cell’ needs replacing.
Rapid Salt Loss
1. Check for leaks in pool. Turn off any automatic ll
device, check for water loss.
2. Heavy rain can dilute salt level.
ECO-matic Producing, But Sanitizer Level Low
1. ‘Cell’ dirty.
2. System Control set too low.
3. Insufcient operating time.
4. Low Salt level.
5. Conditioner level too low.
6. Filter pump needs cleaning.
7. Poor ow rate may be creating air pocket in ‘Cell’.
8. Check for nitrates and phosphates.
9. Winter Mode on during swimming season.
ECO-matic Scaling Too Frequently
1. Total Alkalinity (and pH) too high.
2. Total Hardness too high.
Water Leaking At ‘Cell’ Head
1. Loose O-ring or O-ring out of its groove.

15
Important Safety Instructions – USA
When installing and using this electrical equipment, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the
following:
1. READ AND FOLLOW ALL INSTRUCTIONS
2. WARNING – To reduce the risk of injury, do not permit children to use this product unless they are closely
supervised at all times.
3. (For cord and plug-connected units) WARNING – Risk of electric shock. Connect only to a grounding type
receptacle protected by a ground fault circuit-interrupter (GFCI). Contact a qualied electrician if you cannot verify
that the receptacle is protected by a GFCI.
4. (For cord and plug-connected units) WARNING – Do not bury cord. Locate cord to minimize abuse from lawn
mowers, hedge trimmers and other equipment.
5. (For cord and plug-connected units) WARNING – To reduce the risk of electric shock, replace damaged cord
immediately.
6. (For cord and plug-connected units) WARNING – To reduce the risk of electric shock, do not use extension cord to
connect unit to power supply; provide a properly located outlet.
7. This unit is to be installed in accordance with these Installation Instructions, the National Electrical Code and the
requirements of the authority having jurisdiction.
8. The ‘Cell’ cord shall be located at least 5 feet from the inside walls of the pool/spa.
9. SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
Important Safety Instructions - Canada
Instructions de Securite Importantes – Canada
When installing and using this electrical equipment, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the
following: Durant l’installation et l’usage de cet equipement, les precautions de base d’usage doivent etre suivis, et mis en
considération:
1. READ AND FOLLOW ALL INSTRUCTIONS
1. LIRE ET SUIVRE TOUTES LES INSTRUCTIONS
2. A green colored terminal or a terminal marked G, GR, Ground, Grounding, or the international ground symbol is
located inside the power control box (‘Power Pack’). To reduce the risk of electric shock, this terminal must be
connected to the grounding means provided in the electric supply panel with a continuous copper wire equivalent in
size to the circuit conductors supplying this equipment.
2. Une borne electrique de couleur verte ou une borne marquee G, GR, prise de terre ou avec le symbole
internationale de prise de terre se trouve a l’interieur de la boite de contrôle (source de courant). Pour reduire tout
risque de choc electrique, cette borne doit etre connectée a la prise de terre qui se trouve dans le paneau electrique
a cet effet, lequel est identié par un l de cuivre de la meme grosseur que le circuit conducteur qui alimente cet
equipement.
3. At least two lugs marked ‘Bonding Lugs’ are provided on the external surface or on the inside of the power control
box (‘Power Pack’). To reduce the risk of electric shock, connect the local common bonding grid in the area of the
hot tub or spa or pool to these terminals with an insulated or bare copper conductor not smaller than No. 6 AWG.
3. Au moins deux ecrous marqués “Ecrous d’encrage” sont fournis sur la surface externe ou sur le coté de la boite de
contrôle (source de courant). Pour reduire le risque de choc electrique, brancher la grille de jonction commune du
bain tourbillon, spa ou piscine a ces terminaux avec un l isole ou un l conducteur de cuivre d’un calibre de non
moins qu’un No. 6 AWG.
4. SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
4. GARDER CES INTRUCTIONS

16
Installation Summary
This is a quick guide as to how the ECO-matic should be installed. Refer to the following pages for detailed instructions
and helpful hints.
1. Install the ECO-matic ‘Cell’ into the return line, downstream from all other equipment. The ‘Cell’ must be horizontal.
The water ow direction through the cell housing should be ‘owing away from the Cell Head’. Inlet and outlet piping
to be a minimum of 6” in length (to provide for easy Cell Housing replacement if this becomes necessary in the
future). Refer to following pages for details.
2. Mount the ‘Power Pack’ onto a wall, fence or post, etc., within reach of the ‘Cell’ cord. Connect to power so that
‘Power Pack’ receives power only when the lter pump is operating (both components should switch on and off at
the same times). Refer to following pages for important wiring instructions.
3. Connect ‘Cell’ to ‘Power Pack’. Refer to following pages for connection details.
4. Add salt to the pool water.
The Components of Your ECO-matic
The ‘Power Pack’
The ‘Power Pack’ (or Power Control) contains the
electrical components which transform the mains power
supply to the low voltage DC current required to operate
the ECO-matic ‘Cell’, as well as the other various operating
and control functions of the ECO-matic system.
The ‘Cell’
The ECO-matic ‘Cell’ is the component which comes
into contact with the pool/spa water and which, through a
process of electrolysis, produces (from the ‘natural’ salt
dissolved in the water) the sanitizer/oxidizer necessary
to maintain the water in a healthy condition. The ‘Cell’ is
comprised of sophisticated materials specically designed
and engineered for ECO-matic’s intended purpose.
The Salt
A basic ingredient of the ECO-matic process is Pool Salt.
The salt is added directly into the pool or spa water to produce the water salinity required to enable your ECO-matic to
function properly. Pool Salt is available in bags of various sizes from your local pool professional.

17
Before Installing Your ECO-matic...
How good is the water in your pool/spa?
In most instances, pools can be simply converted to the ECO-matic system without the need to change the pool water.
However, if the water is ‘old’ (older than say 3 years), or if the water has been subjected to high degrees of chemical
dosing, or has been kept in generally poor condition, you may want to consider dumping that water and relling the pool.
Pool water has a tendency to become ‘harder’ over time. Evaporation leaves the ‘hardness’ in the water and when top-up
water is added to the pool, additional hardness is added. This additional hardness, together with residuals from previous
chemical treatments etc can make the pool generally more difcult to maintain (regardless of the purication method
being used).
A simple water hardness test (Total Hardness, not just calcium hardness) can determine whether it is preferable to dump
the water and rell. Although water hardness varies from one area to another, the following general rule can be used as a
guide:
If the pool water Total Hardness exceeds 500 ppm (parts per million) AND is more than 300 ppm above that of the ll
water (tap water), it is recommended that you drain and rell the pool.
The same general rule applies to spas, however the smaller volume of water and relative ease of changing the water in a
spa, suggests that it is generally the advisable thing to do.
WARNING: Before emptying your pool or spa, consult your pool builder, Pool Service or local Pool Shop and determine
whether it is safe to do so. Emptying a pool in certain ground-water conditions can cause serious structural damage to the pool.
Note: Pools that have been sanitized with non-chlorine systems (bi-guinia or copper saged) should be drained and relled
before converting to salt sanitation.
Choosing the ‘CELL’ Location
The location in which the ‘Cell’ is to be installed is important. The ‘Cell’ must be located as follows:
* In the return-to-pool line (the pipe carrying ltered water back to the pool)
* AFTER (down-stream from) all other equipment (lter, heater etc). Contact your ECO-matic Dealer for instructions if
the ‘Cell’ cannot be located AFTER all other equipment.
* Locate the ‘Cell’ so that its power supply cord (attached to ‘Power Pack’) can reach the ‘Cell’ from the ‘Power Pack’
location.
* The ‘Cell’ cord must be at least 5 feet distance from the inside walls of the pool/spa (at least 5 feet from the nearest
water in the pool/spa).
Other considerations regarding ‘Cell’ location:
When correctly installed, the ‘Cell’ will produce sanitizer only when water is owing through it – and, obviously, the
sanitizer is carried in the water, to wherever the water is being directed, so ... If there is a spa attached to the pool, be
sure to locate the ‘Cell’ in the line carrying water to the pool/spa, preferably before (upstream from) the valve which directs
water ow to either the pool or spa – and not after (downstream from) the valve in the line to the ‘spa only’ (in which case
no sanitizer would be sent to the pool during normal ltering periods).
IMPORTANT: Refer to your ECO-matic Owner’s Guide for important instructions – how to prevent overproduction
of sanitizer in your spa.
If there is a solar heater attached to the pool, locate the ‘Cell’ so that it has water owing through it whenever the lter
pump is operating regardless of whether water is owing through the solar heater panels.

18
Installing the ‘CELL HOUSING’
Once the correct location for the ‘Cell’ has been established, the
‘Cell Housing’ must be installed into the plumbing at that selected
location. The clear plastic ‘Cell Housing’ is PVC compatible, so
use ordinary PVC solvent (glue) to attach the ‘Cell Housing’ to the
pipework. Remove the ‘Cell’ from the ‘Cell Housing’ before attempting
to install the ‘Cell Housing’.
IMPORTANT The ‘Cell Housing’ must be installed as follows:
* ‘Cell Housing’ must be installed in a HORIZONTAL position.
* Water ow should be in the direction indicated by the ARROW
on the clear plastic ‘Cell Housing’ (in the direction owing away
from the ‘Cell’ head).
* The Inlet and outlet pipes must be pointing vertically DOWN, to
form an inverted ‘U’ conguration with the ‘Cell Housing’.
* The vertical inlet and outlet PVC piping must be a minimum of
6” in length (refer Sketches 3a, 3b)
* The ‘Cell Housing’ shall be free standing and not secured to any
rigid backing surface (such as a wall).
* Installation should allow easy removal of the cell from the
housing.
Water Flow: In most cases (for 1.5” and 2” PVC) the total water
ow can be directed through the ‘Cell Housing’ (as shown in Sketch 3a) without signicantly effecting the ow rate and/
or backpressure on the lter etc. However, if ow rate is a concern (high horse-power pump, large diameter piping etc),
the ‘Cell’ can be installed on a by-pass (as shown in Sketch 3b). Note the need for a valve to ensure a good ow of water
through the by-pass.
Helpful HINT: When attaching the ‘Cell Housing’ into the pipework, attach the inlet and outlet pipes to the ‘Cell Housing’
FIRST – and then connect that assembly to the rest of the pipework (Refer Sketch #2). The inlet and outlet pipes should
be pushed in, twisted, and held rmly in place until the PVC solvent holds. Note: While making these joints, hold the ‘Cell
Housing’ horizontally, with the inlet and outlet pointing down, so that the liquid PVC solvent does not run into the ‘Cell
Housing’ where it will look unsightly through the clear plastic.
Helpful HINT: Copper Pipes? Use PVC ‘Flow-Lock’ ttings (compression ttings) for easy connection of PVC to copper pipes.
Installing the ‘POWER PACK’
Location of the ‘Power Pack’: Select a location to mount the ‘Power Pack’ onto a wall or fence etc, as follows:
* The ‘Cell’ location should already have been selected (see above). The ‘Cell’ power cord must reach the ‘Cell’
(with sufcient slack to allow removal of the ‘Cell’ from the ‘Cell Housing’). Note: The ‘Cell’ cord can be extended if
absolutely necessary, but you must rst contact your ECO-matic Dealer for important instructions.
* For cord-connected units, locate the ‘Power Pack’ so its cord is within reach of the point where it is to be connected
to mains power (eg: pool Timer).
* The ‘Power Pack’ is weather-proof so can be located outdoors.
* It is important to ensure that ‘Power Pack’ be located in a well ventilated area – and that air can circulate between
the back of the ‘Power Pack’ and the surface onto which it is mounted (stand-offs on back of ‘Power Pack’ provide
ventilation for wall-mounted units).
Once a suitable location for the ‘Power Pack’ has been selected, use 2 - #8 screws to attach ‘Power Pack’ to a wall, fence
or post etc (using wall plugs if necessary).
See actual size template on back page for mounting screw position.