Econar GeoSource 2000 User manual

Installation
and
Operating Instructions
Vertical and Horizontal Forced Air
GV/GH 18 Thru 120 Series
GeoSource 2000


Contactor
GeoSource 2000 Horizontal Unit
Air Coil
Blower
Air Pad
Controller
Reversing
Valve
Transformer
Scroll
Compressor
Blower
Contactor
Expansion
Valve
Scroll
Compressor
Air Pad
Air Coil
Transformer
Controller
Reversing
Valve
Desuperheater
(Optional)
GeoSource 2000 Vertical Unit
Air Filter

1
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Section Title Page
I. Introduction to ECONAR Heat Pumps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
II. Unit Location/Mounting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
III. Duct System/Blower . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
IV. Earth Loop Water Piping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
A. Closed Loop Applications
B. Open Loop Applications
1) Open Loop Freeze Protection Switch
2) Water Coil Maintenance
a. Freeze Cleaning
b. Chlorine Cleaning
c. Miratic Acid Cleaning
V. Condensate Drain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
VI. Unit Sizing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
A. Earth Loop Configuration and Design Water Temperatures
B. Building Heat Loss/Heat Gain
VII. Electrical Service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
VIII. 24 Volt Control Circuit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
A. Transformer
B. Thermostat
C. Controller
1) Blower Operation
2) Earth Loop Pump Initiation
3) Compressor Operation
4) 4-Way Valve Control
5) Compressor Lockouts
6) Compressor Anti-Short-Cycle
7) System Diagnostics
8) Overflow Detection
IX. Startup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
X. Service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
A. Filter
B. Lockout Lights
C. Preseason Inspection
XI. Thermostat Operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
XII. Troubleshooting Guide For Unit Operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
XIII. Troubleshooting Guide For Lockout Conditions . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
XIV. Additional Figures and Tables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
XV. Desuperheater (Optional) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

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I. INTRODUCTION TO
ECONAR HEAT PUMPS
ECONAR Energy Systems, Corp. has been producing
geothermal heat pumps in Minnesota for over fifteen
years. The cold winter climate has driven the design of
ECONAREnergy System's heating and cooling
equipment to what is known as a "Cold Climate"
geothermal heat pump. This cold climate technology
focuses on maximizing the energy savings available in
heating dominated regions without sacrificing comfort.
Extremely efficient cooling, dehumidification and
optional domestic hot water heating are also provided in
one neatly packaged system.
Geothermal heat pumps get their name from the transfer
of heat to and from the earth. The earth coupled heat
exchanger (geothermal loop) supplies the source energy
for heating and absorbs the discharged energy from
cooling. The system uses a compression cycle, much like
your refrigerator, to collect the earth's energy supplied by
the sun and uses it to heat your home. Since the process
only moves heat and does not create it, the efficiencies are
three to four times higher than the most efficient fossil
fuel systems.
ECONAR produces three types of GeoSource 2000 heat
pumps: forced air heat pumps, which transfer heat from
water to air; hydronic heat pumps, which transfer heat
from water to water; and combination heat pumps, which
incorporate the hydronic heating of a water to water unit
into a forced air unit. This guide discusses the forced air
unit.
Safety and comfort are both inherent to, and designed into
ECONAREnergy System's geothermal heat pumps.
Since the system runs completely on electrical energy,
your entire home can have the safety of being gas free.
The best engineering and quality control is built into
every ECONARheat pump built. Proper application and
correct installation will assure excellent performance and
customer satisfaction.
ECONAR's commitment to quality is written on the side
of every heat pump we build. Throughout the building
process the technicians that build each unit sign their
names to the quality assurance label after completing their
inspections. As a final quality test, every unit goes
through a full run test where the performance and
operation is verified in both the heating and cooling
modes. No other manufacturer goes as far as to run a full
performance check to assure system quality.
** IMPORTANT**
Service of refrigerant based equipment can be hazardous
due to system pressure and 230 volt electrical energy.
Only trained or qualified service personnel can install,
repair or service refrigerant equipment.
NN Warning -Turn off the main switches before
performing service or maintenance to this unit. Electrical
shock can cause personal injury. The installer is
responsible to see that all local electrical, plumbing,
heating and air conditioning codes are followed.
II. UNIT LOCATION/
MOUNTING
Locate the unit in an indoor area where the ambient
temperature will remain above 45oF. Servicing of the
heat pump is done primarily from the front. Rear access
is desirable and should be provided when possible. A
field installed drain pan is required under the entire unit
where accidental water discharge could damage
surrounding floors, walls or ceilings.
II CAUTION –Do not tip units on their side during
transportation or installation, or severe internal damage
may occur.
Units must be mounted on a vibration-absorbing pad
slightly larger than the base to provide isolation between
the unit and the floor. Water supply pumps should not be
hard plumbed directly to the unit with copper pipe; this
could transfer vibration from the water pump to the
refrigeration circuit, causing a resonating sound. Hard
plumbing could also transfer vibration noise from the unit
through the piping to the living space.
II CAUTION -Before driving screws into the cabinet,
check on the inside of the unit to be sure the screw will
not hit electrical or refrigeration lines.
III. DUCT SYSTEM/BLOWER
For the duct system, metal ductwork should be used.
Flexible connectors are required for discharge and return
air duct connections on a metal duct system. For
acceptable duct sizes,see Table 1.
If the duct system is installed in an uninsulated space, the
metal ductwork should be insulated on the outside to
prevent heat loss and to absorb noise.
If the unit is connected to existing ductwork, this
ductwork musthave the capacity to handle the air volume
required by the heat pump. Undersized duct work will
cause noisy operation and poor operating efficiencies due
to lack of airflow.
The GeoSource 2000 forced air heat pumps use a 230
Volt three speed blower. For maximum airflow, the
blower should be on high speed. Moving the wire on the
fan terminal strip can change the fan speed. For blower
data and factory settings, see Table 2.

3
FF Note: The blower will not operate properly if
ductwork is not attached. The ductwork supplies static
pressure to give the blower motor a load to work against.
Blower motors may overheat if run for an extended period
of time without ductwork attached.
Table 1 -Duct Sizing Chart
Acceptable Branch Duct Sizes Acceptable Main or Trunk Duct Sizes
CFM Round Rectangular Round Rectangular
50 4" 4x4
75 5" 4x5, 4x6
100 6" 4x8, 4x6
150 7" 4x10, 5x8, 6x6
200 8" 5x10, 6x8, 4x14, 7x7
250 9" 6x10, 8x8, 4x16
300 10" 6x14, 8x10, 7x12
350 10" 6x20, 6x16, 9x10
400 12" 6x18, 10x10, 9x12 10" 4x20, 7x10, 6x12, 8x9
450 12" 6x20, 8x14, 9x12, 10x11 10" 5x20, 6x16, 9x10, 8x12
500 10" 10x10, 6x18, 8x12, 7x14
600 12" 6x20, 7x18, 8x16, 10x12
800 12" 8x18, 9x15, 10x14, 12x12
1000 14" 10x18, 12x14, 8x24
1200 16" 10x20, 12x18, 14x15
1400 16" 10x25, 12x20, 14x18, 15x16
1600 18" 10x30, 15x18, 14x20
1800 20" 10x35, 15x20, 16x19, 12x30, 14x25
2000 20" 10x40, 12x30, 15x25, 18x20
2200 22" 10x45, 15x28, 18x22, 20x20
Tables calculated for 0.05 to 0.10 inches of water friction per 100’ of duct. At these duct design conditions, along with the pressure drop through the filter,
the total design external static pressure is 0.20 inches of water. Normal airflow at 0.20 inches of water should then be used for these calculations.
Table 2 -Fan Performance Data
UNIT FAN External Static Pressure -in WG
SIZE SPEED 0.10 0.15 0.20 0.25 0.30 0.35 0.40 0.50
Low 550 520 490 460 445 430 410 385
GV/GH/180/181 Medium 610 580 550 530 510 480 460 440
High* 675 650 625 600 580 560 525 480
Low 760 710 680 650 625 600 580 560
GV/GH/230/231 Medium 860 800 775 750 735 710 650 590
High* 950 900 870 855 830 800 760 720
Low 870 825 800 775 750 735 710 650
GV/GH/290/291 Medium 980 935 900 870 845 830 800 760
High* 1090 1050 1000 965 940 920 865 840
Low 1005 965 935 890 855 815 805 740
GV/GH/360/361 Medium* 1140 1100 1065 1010 965 935 915 840
High 1210 1150 1110 1070 1030 985 960 895
Low 1005 965 935 890 855 815 805 740
GV/GH/420/421 Medium 1140 1100 1065 1010 965 935 915 840
High* 1210 1150 1110 1070 1030 985 960 895
Low 1325 1275 1235 1200 1165 1135 1105 1055
GV/GH/520/521 Medium 1505 1450 1415 1375 1320 1275 1245 1185
High* 1685 1625 1550 1500 1435 1405 1360 1305
Low 1500 1450 1410 1360 1325 1310 1250 1210
GV/GH/590/591 Medium 1700 1645 1595 1555 1500 1480 1410 1380
High* 1900 1850 1800 1740 1680 1625 1590 1510
Low 1900 1850 1800 1750 1690 1660 1600 1560
GV/GH/670/671 Medium* 2220 2185 2150 2110 2050 2000 1960 1880
High 2410 2370 2325 2250 2200 2150 2110 2030
Low 2510 2390 2270 2200 2110 2070 2030 1980
GH980 Medium 2840 2720 2600 2520 2430 2380 2330 2280
High* 3040 2920 2800 2730 2640 2590 2550 2480
Low 3020 2940 2860 2780 2710 2650 2600 2550
GH1200 Medium 3220 3140 3060 2970 2900 2890 2800 2710
High* 3530 3430 3340 3260 3170 3100 3040 2960
*Denotes Factory Setting

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IV. EARTH LOOP WATER
PIPING
Since water is the source of energy in the wintertime and
the energy sink in the summertime, good water supply is
possibly the most important requirement of a geothermal
heat pump system installation. There are two common
types of water supplies, closed loop systems and open
loop systems.
A. Closed Loop Applications
A closed loop system recirculates the same
water/antifreeze solution through a closed system of
underground high-density polyethylene pipe. As the
solution passes through the pipe, it collects heat (in the
heating mode) that is being transferred from the relatively
warm surrounding soil through the pipe and into the
relatively cold solution. The solution is circulated to the
heat pump, which pulls heat out of the solution, and then
back through the ground to extract more heat from the
earth.
The GeoSource 2000 is designed to operate on either
verticalor horizontal closed loop applications. Vertical
loops are typically installed with a well drilling rig up to
200 feet deep or more. Horizontal systems are typically
installed with excavating or trenching equipment
approximately six to eight feet deep, depending on
geographic location and length of pipe used. Earth loops
must be sized properly for each particular geographic
Figure 1 –Closed Loop Water Plumbing
area, soil type, and individual capacity requirements.
Contact your local installer or ECONAR’s Customer
Support for loop sizing requirements in your area.
Since normal wintertime operating entering water
temperatures (EWT) to the heat pump are from 25oF to
32oF, the solution in the earth loop must include
antifreeze. GTF and propylene glycol are common
antifreeze solutions. GTF is methanol-based antifreeze,
which should be mixed 50% with water to achieve freeze
protection of 10oF. Propylene glycol antifreeze solution
should be mixed 25% with water to obtain a 15oF freeze
protection. DO NOTmix more than 25% propylene
glycol with water in an attempt to achieve a lower than
15oF freeze protection, since more concentrated mixtures
of propylene glycol become too viscous at low
temperatures and cannot be pumped through the earth
loop. Insufficient amounts of antifreeze may result in a
freeze rupture of the unit, and can cause unit shutdown
problems during cold weather operation (when the heat
pump experiences the longest run time) due to loop
temperatures falling below the freeze protection ofthe
loop solution.
Flow rate requirements for closed loops are higher than
open loop systems because water temperatures supplied to
the heat pump are generally lower (see Table 3). Between
2.5 to 3.0 gallons per minute (GPM) per ton are required
for proper operation of the heat pump and the earth
coupled heat exchanger.

5
Table 3 –Loop Side Flow Rates
Model Closed Loop Open Loop
Flow dP Flow dP
(gpm) (psi) (gpm) (psi)
G(V,H)18 40.9 20.9
G(V,H)23 63.0 30.9
G(V,H)29 73.9 41.5
G(V,H)36 85.5 41.3
G(V,H)42 10 7.8 51.7
G(V,H)52 11 5.2 61.6
G(V,H)59 13 6.0 93.1
G(V,H)67 14 7.0 10 3.8
G(V,H)98 22 3.8 12 2.5
G(V,H)120 26 4.5 16 3.0
Pressure/Temperature (P/T) ports should be installed in
the entering and leaving water lines of the heat pump on a
closed loop system (see Figure 1). A thermometer can be
inserted into the P/T ports to check entering and leaving
water temperatures. A pressure gauge can also be
inserted into these P/T ports to determine the pressure
differential between the entering and leaving water. This
pressure differential can then be compared to the
specification data on each particular heat pump to
determine the flow rate of the system.
A PumpPAKthat is individually sized for each
application can supply pumping requirements for the
earth loop fluid. The PumpPAKcan also be used to
purge the loop system. The PumpPAKis wired directly
to the contactor and operates whenever the compressor
runs (see Electrical Diagram –Figure 5). If a
PumpPAKis not used, a separate pump can be used
which is energized with a pump relay (note: electrical
code will require a fused disconnect for pumps other than
PumpPAKs).
Filling and purging a closed loop system are very
important steps to assure proper heat pump operation.
Each loop must be purged with enough water flow to
assure a two feet per second flow rate in each circuit in
the loop. This normally requires a 1½ to 3 HP high head
pump to circulate fluid through the loop to remove all the
air out of the loop and into a purging tank. Allow the
pump to run 10 to 15 minutes after the last air bubbles
have been removed. Enough antifreeze must be added to
give a 10oF to 15oF freeze protection to the earth loop
system. This amount should be calculated and added to
the loop after purging is complete. After antifreeze has
been installed it should be measured with a hydrometer,
refractometer or any other device to determine the actual
freezing point of the solution. Remember that a low
antifreeze level will lock the heat pump outon low
pressure during wintertime operation.
The purge pump can be used to pressurize the system to
an initial static pressure of 30-40 psi. Make sure the
system is at this pressure after the loop pipe has had
enough time to stretch. In order to achieve the 30 to 40
psi initial pressure, the loop may need to be pressurized to
60 to 65 psi. This static pressure will fluctuate from
heating to cooling season, but the pressure should always
remain above zero so circulation pumps do not cavitate
and air cannot be pulled into the system. (( For
information regarding earth loop installations contact your
local installer, distributor or factory representative.
B. Open Loop Applications
An open system gets its name from the open discharge of
water after it has been used by the heat pump. A well
must be available that can supply all of the water
requirements (see Table 3) of the heat pump along with
any other water requirements drawing off that same well.
The well must be capable of supplying the heat pump’s
required flow rate for up to 24 hours per day on the
coldest winter day.
Figure 2 shows the necessary components for water
piping of an open system. First, a bladder type pressure
tank with a "draw down" of at least 1½ times the well
pump capacity must be installed on the supply side of the
heat pump. Shut off valves and boiler drains on the
entering and leaving water lines are necessary for future
maintenance issues. A screen strainer is placed on the
supply line with a mesh size of 40 or 60 and enough
surface area to allow for particle buildup between
cleanings.
Pressure/Temperature (P/T) ports are placed in the supply
and discharge lines so that thermometers or pressure
gauges can be inserted into the water stream. On the well
water discharge side of the heat pump, a flow control
valve must be mounted next to the heat pump to regulate
the maximum water flow through the unit. A solenoid
valve is then installed and wired to the accessory plug on
the controller. This valve will open when the unit is
running and close when the unit stops. A visual flow
meter is then installed to allow visual inspection of the
flow requirements. The flow meter is useful in
determining when maintenance is required. (If you can't
read the flow, cleaning is required.)
Schedule 40 PVC piping, copper tubing, polyethylene or
rubber hose can be used for supply and discharge water
lines. Make sure line sizes are large enough to supply the
required flow with a reasonable pressure drop (generally
1" diameter minimum). NOTE:Do not use plastic
female fittings with metal male fittings, or fractures may
result in the female fittings. Always use plastic male into
steel female!
Water discharge is generally made to a drain field, stream,
pond, surface discharge, tile line, or storm sewer.
II CAUTION: Using a drain field requires soil
conditions and adequate sizing to assure rapid percolation,
or the required flow rates will not be achieved. Consult
local codes and ordinances to assure compliance. DO
NOTdischarge water to a septic system.

6
Figure 2 –Open Loop Water Plumbing
The heat pump should never be operated with flow rates
less than specified. Low flow rates or no flow may result
in freezing water in the water to refrigerant heat
exchanger. This will cause the unit to shut down on low-
pressure lockout. If the unit locks out, verify that the unit
has the required flow and reset the unit by shutting off
power to the unit for one minute. II DO NOT continually
reset the unit, if the unit locks out more than once call
yourservice professional. (( Continued reset of the unit
can freeze water inside the water coil to the point of
rupturing the water coil.
1. Open Loop Freeze Protection Switch
Heat pump installations on open loop systems, using a
non-antifreeze protected water source during the heating
mode, require the use of a freeze protection switch. If the
water supply to the heat pump is interrupted for any
reason, continued operation of the compressor would
cause the water remaining in the water-to-refrigerant heat
exchanger to freeze and rupture the copper inner tube.
The freeze protection switch (ECONARPart # 75-1028)
will shut the unit down before freezing can occur and
protect the heat pump against loss of flow. A freeze
protection switch must be field installedon open loop
GeoSource 2000 heat pumps before the warranty can be
registered on the heat pump. The switch mounts on the
compressor’s suction line and is wired to terminals on the
controller (from X to FP). After the freeze protection
switch is installed, the J4 jumper must be removed from
the controller to activate the switch. The low pressure
switch now locks the unit off at 35 psi pressure in the
heating mode.
2. Water Coil Maintenance
Water quality is a major concern for open systems.
Problems can occur from scaling, particle buildup,
suspended solids, corrosion, pH levels outside the 7-9
range, or biological growth. If poor water quality is
known to exist in your area, a cupro-nickel water coil may
be required when ordering the system, or installing a
closed loop system may be the best alternative. Water
coil cleaning on open loop systems may be necessary on a
regular basis. Depending on the specific water quality
issue, the water coil can be cleaned by the following
methods:
a. Freeze Cleaning (Scale deposits, particle
buildup)
I. Before using the freeze cleaning procedure, verify that
it needs to be done. Answer the following questions to
determine if servicing is required.
1. Determine and verify that the required water flow
rate in GPM is both present and correct.
2. Determine the temperature differential of the
water. Under normal conditions, there should be a
temperature difference of about 10-15 degrees
between the supply side and discharge side. If the
temperature difference is 8 degrees or less,
consideration should then be given to cleaning the
water coil heat exchanger.
II. If cleaning of the water coil is indicated, please
carefully follow the steps listed below to utilize the freeze
cleaning method.

7
1. Turn off the heat pump and its water supply.
2. Open a plumbing connection on the water supply
side, if possible, to break the system vacuum and
allow easier drainage of the system and water coil.
3. Drain the water out of the system and water coil
via the boiler drains on the entering and leaving
water lines, and the drain on the heat exchanger.
NN WARNING!! NFAILURE TO COMPLETELY
DRAIN THE WATER COIL HEAT EXCHANGER
COULD POSSIBLY RESULT IN A FREEZE
RUPTURE!
4. Set the thermostat to "Heat" to start the heat pump
in the heating mode and quickly freeze the coil.
5. Allow the heat pump to run until it automatically
shuts off on low pressure and then turn the
thermostat to the "Off" position.
6. Recap the water coil drain and tighten any
plumbing connections that may have been
loosened.
7. If so equipped, open the field installed drain cock
on the water discharge side of the heat pump, and
install a short piece of rubber hose to allow
drainage into a drain or bucket. A drain cock on
the discharge side allows the water flow to bypass
the solenoid valve, flow valve, flow meter, or any
other item that may be clogged by mineral debris.
Drainage to a bucket helps prevent the clogging of
drains and allows you to visually determine the
effectiveness of the procedure.
8. Turn on the water supply to the heat pump in order
to start the process of flushing any mineral debris
from the unit.
9. Set the thermostat to "Cool" and start the heat
pump in the cooling mode to quickly thaw out the
water coil.
10. Run the heat pump until the water coil is
completely thawed out and any loosened scale,
mineral deposits, or other debris buildup is flushed
completely from the water coil. Allow at least 5
minutes of operation to ensure that the water coil
is thoroughly thawed out.
11. If the water still contains mineral debris, and if the
flow through the unit did not improve along with
an increase in the temperature difference between
the water supply and discharge, repeat the entire
procedure listed above.
12. Reset the heat pump for normal operation.
b. Chlorine Cleaning (Bacterial Growth)
1. Turn the thermostat to the "Off" position.
2. Connect a submersible circulating pump to the
hose bibs on the entering and leaving water sides
of the heat exchanger.
3. Submerse the pump in a five-gallon pail of water
and chlorine bleach mixture. The chlorine should
be strong enough to kill the bacteria. Suggested
initial mixture is 1 part chlorine bleach to 4 parts
water.
4. Close the shut off valves upstream and
downstream of the heat exchanger.
5. Open the hose bibs to allow circulation of the
bleach solution.
6. Start the pump and circulate the solution through
the heat exchanger for 15 minutes to one hour.
The solution should change color to indicate the
chlorine is killing the bacteria and removing it
from the heat exchanger.
7. Flush the used solution down a drain by addinga
fresh water supply to the pail. Flush until the
leaving water is clear.
8. Repeat this procedure until the solution runs clear
through the chlorine circulation process.
9. Flush the entire heat pump system with water.
This procedure can be repeated annually,semiannually, or
as often as it takes to keep bacteria out of the heat
exchanger, or when bacteria appears in a visual flowmeter
to the point the flow cannot be read.
Another alternative to bacteria problems is to shock your
entire well. Shocking your well may give longer term
relief from bacteria problems than cleaning your heat
exchanger, but will probably need to be repeated, possibly
every three to five years. (( Contact a well driller in your
area for more information.
c. Miratic Acid Cleaning (Difficult Scaling
and Particle Buildup Problems)
1. Consult installer due to dangerous nature of acids.
2. Iron out solutions and de-scaling products are also
useful.
V. CONDENSATE DRAIN
Condensate traps are built into everyGeoSource 2000
vertical unit, so an external trap should not be installed.
Vertical units must be level to insure proper condensate
drainage. Horizontal units require an external condensate
trap in order to drain water from the heat pump.
Horizontal units must also be mounted level in order for
the condensate to drain.
The condensate line as it leaves the U bend of the
condensate trap must be at least 3” below the base of the
heat pump. This requires the U bend to be 6” below the
unit to give the upward portion of the U bend a 3” lift.
The condensate trap should be vented after the U bend.
The condensate line should be pitched away from the unit
a minimum of 1/8” per foot. If the unit produces an odor
in the cooling mode, the condensate trap or line may be
plugged, or the unit maynot be pitched correctly. Bleach
may be poured down the condensate drain in the heat
pump to kill any bacterial growth in the condensate line.
Downflow units also require an external condensate trap.
A stand is required underneath a downflow unit, since
placing the unit on the floor would not allow for the 6”

8
drop of the condensate trap. Vented condensate traps are
necessary to break the negative pressure in the air
chamber and allow the condensate to flow. Construct
condensate traps to the following diagram.
Figure 3 –Condensate Drain -Horizontal and
Downflow Units Only
VI. UNIT SIZING
Selecting the unit capacity of a geothermal heat pump
requires two things:
A) Earth Loop Configuration and Design Water
Temperatures.
B) Building Heat Loss/HeatGain.
A. Earth Loop Configuration and
Design Water Temperatures
Loop configurations include the open and closed loop
varieties. Heat pump capacity and flow rate requirements
vary depending on loop configuration (see Table 3).
1. Closed Loop Systems
Closed loop systems use a heat exchanger of high density
polyethylene pipe buried underground to supply a
tempered water solution back to the heat pump. Closed
loops operate at higher flow rates than open loops since
the entering water temperature (EWT) is lower. The loop
EWT supplied to the heat pump has a great effect on the
capacity of the unit in the heating mode. Earth loops in
cold climates are normally sized to supply a wintertime
EWT to the heat pump from 32oF down to 25oF, which
minimizes the installation cost of the earth loop and still
maintains proper system operation. The unit GPM
requirements and pressure drops for loop pump sizing is
available in Table 3.
When selecting the heat pump, choose a unit that will
supply the necessary heating or cooling capacity at the
minimum and maximum earth loop temperature
conditions respectively. Example; if a residential system
requires 45,000 Btu/hr to heat a house on an earth loop
system (designed for 32oF minimum wintertime EWT),
and 36,000 Btu/hr to cool the house on an earth loop
(designed for 77oF summertime EWT), a Gx52x-x-Txxx
GeoSource 2000 heat pump is required to handle the
loads.
2. Open Loop Systems
On an open loop system the design water temperature will
be the well water temperature in yourgeographic region.
Many cold climates are in the 50oF range for well water
temperature. If your well water temperatures are lower
than 50oF, for instance Canadian well water can be as low
as 43oF, the flow rate must be increased to avoid leaving
water temperatures below the freezing point. If well
water temperatures are above 50oF, as in some southern
states where well water temperatures are above 70oF, the
flow rates may need to be increased to dump heat more
efficiently in the cooling mode.
Varying well water temperatures will have little effect on
unit capacity in the cooling mode (since the well is
connected to the heat pump condenser), but can have
large effects on the capacity in the heating mode (since
the well is connected to the evaporator). If well water
temperatures are to exceed 70oF, special considerations,
such as closed loop systems, should be addressed.
B. Building Heat Loss/Heat Gain
The space load must be estimated accurately for any
successful HVAC installation. There are many guides or
computer programs available for load estimation
including the ECONARGeoSource Heat Pump
Handbook, Manual J, and others. After the heat loss/heat
gain is completed and loop EWT are established, the heat
pump can now be selected using the specifications data.
Choose the capacity of the heat pump based on both
heating and cooling load.
VII. ELECTRICAL SERVICE
The main electrical service must be protected by a fuse or
circuit breaker, and be capable of providing the amperes
required by the unit atnameplate voltage. All wiring
shall comply with the national electrical code and/or any
local codes that may apply. Access to the line voltage
contactor is gained through the knockouts provided on
either side of the heat pump next to the front corner.
Route EMT or flexible conduit with appropriate 3-
conductor wire to the contactor.
NN WARNING -The unit must be properly grounded!NN
II CAUTION: Three-phase units MUSTbe wired
properly to insure proper compressor rotation. Improper
phasing may result in compressor damage. An electronic
phase sequence indicator must be used to check supply-
wiring phase. Also, the “Wild” leg of the three-phase
power must be connected to the middle leg on the
contactor.
When supplying power to external water pumps with the
heat pump’s power supply, use only impedance protected
motors. ECONAR PumpPAKscan be wired directly to
the contactor in the electrical box. The relay will energize

9
the PumpPAKwith a call for heating or cooling. The
use of impedance protected pumps eliminates the need for
additional fusing on the PumpPAK.
VIII. 24 VOLT CONTROL
CIRCUIT
The wiring diagrams in Figures 5 and 6 shows the low
voltage controls of the heat pump. This section will break
down the three basic components of the low voltage
circuit; transformer, thermostat, and controller.
A. Transformer
Electrical diagrams are provided in Figures 5 and 6 and
on the electrical box cover panel of the GeoSource 2000
heat pump. An internal 24-volt, 55 VA transformer is
provided to operate all control features of the heat pump.
Table 4 shows the transformer usage for GeoSource 2000
heat pumps.
Table 4 –Transformer Usage (VA)
Component 18-67 98-120
Contactor 7 7x2
4-Way Valve 4 4
Controller 2 2
Thermostat 1 1
Blower Relay 6 6x2
Electric Heat Relay (optional) 6 NA
Total 26 33
Available 29 22
If any system’s external controls require more than the
VA available for external use from the transformer, a
separate transformer must be used. The heat pump's
transformer can generally power simple external control
systems consisting of a few relays or a zone valve
(depending, of course, on the VA draw of the
components). On more complicated control systems the
transformers capacity is used up very quickly.
FF Note: For units operating on 208V electrical service,
the transformer must be switched to the correct lead (see
electrical diagram –Figures 5 and 6). Units are factory
shipped with the transformer set for 240V service.
Operating a unit on 208V with the transformer set to
240V will causethe unit to operate with lower than
normal control voltages.
B. Thermostat
A 2-heat/1-cool thermostat is recommended for proper
operation of GeoSource 2000 heat pumps. Eight wire
thermostat cable is required for proper operation of the
thermostat. Consult the instructions in the thermostat box
for proper mounting and thermostat operation.
II CAUTION-miswiring of control voltage on system
controls can result in fuse or transformer burnout.
FF Note: If a single thermostat controls multiple heat
pumps,the control wiring of the heat pumps must be
isolated from each other. This will prevent the heat
pumps from receiving high voltage through the common
wiring if it is turned off at the circuit breaker for service.
Power is supplied to the thermostat byconnecting the R
and X terminals to the heat pump terminal strip. The fan
is controlled through the G terminal and will operate
continuously in the FAN ON position or when the
compressor is running in the FAN AUTO position. The
Y terminal energizes the compressor. The unit is put into
the air conditioning mode when the thermostat energizes
the O terminal, which operates the 4-way reversing valve.
A lockout condition is indicated by the L terminal, which
lights a red light on the thermostat (depending on the
thermostat). This lockout condition means that the unit
has shut itself down on a low or high-pressure switch to
protect itself, and will not come back on until power has
been reset to the heat pump. If a lockout condition exists,
the heat pump should not be reset more than once. A
service technician should be called immediately.
Repeated reset can cause damage to the system.
If second stage heating (e.g. electronic resistance strip
heat) is used, its control wiring is connected to X and W2
on the heat pump terminal strip. Fan interlock relays are
not required since the thermostat energizes the blower
whenever the second stage is calling. W2 on the terminal
strip is wired directly to second stage heating on the
thermostat. In the event of a heat pump shutdown,
switching the thermostat to emergency heat energizes the
E terminal, which runs the blower and second stage heater
but does not energize the compressor. The thermostat
will indicate whenever second stage heating is energized.
These wiring connections are listed in Table 5.
Table 5 –Wiring Connections
Function Terminal Strip Thermostat
24 Volt Power RR
Common XC(X)
Blower GG
Reversing Valve OO
1st Stage Heat/Cool Y1 Y1
Lockout Signal LL
2nd Stage Heat W2 W2
Emergency Heat EE
Use of a programmable setback thermostat in conjunction
with a geothermal heat pump and a second stage backup
electric resistance heater has the potential to cause
inefficiency. The energy savings supplied by night
setback could be less than the energy used by the electric
elements if they operate in the morning to warm the space
to the daytime temperature setting. Second stage usage
should be monitored and setbacks adjusted to maximize
energy savings of the entire system.
FF Note: If the thermostat is provided by others and is
equipped with an anticipator, it should be set to its highest
setting to avoid interfering with heat pump operation.

10
The anticipator has the effect of reducing system capacity
by restricting run time.
The thermostat should never be set back to less than 60oF.
Air temperatures less than 60oF to the heat pump in
residential applications can cause difficult starting
conditions and lock the unit out. Commercial
applications can be designed to use lower entering air
temperatures, but 60oF is a safe low operating point in
residential applications.
C. Controller
The controller receives a signal from the thermostat and
initiates the correct sequence of operation for the heat
pump. The controller performs the following functions:
1) Blower Operation
2) Earth Loop Pump Initiation
3) Compressor Operation
4) 4-Way Valve Control
5) Compressor Lockouts
6) Compressor Anti-Short-Cycle
7) System Diagnostics
8) Overflow Detection
1. Blower Operation
A signal on the G terminal from the thermostat to the
controller will tell the controller to energize the blower.
The controller then energizes its G output to send control
voltage directly to the blower motor relay.
To change blower speeds, move the wire on the fan
terminal strip to the desired setting. Changing the speed
from the factory setting can cause problems with output
air temperature or reduced airflow, locking out the unit.
2. Earth Loop Pump Initiation
If a PumpPAKis used, it should be wired directly to the
contactor of the compressor. If a PumpPAKis not used,
a separate pump can be used which is energized with a
pump relay (Note: electrical code will require a fused
disconnect for pumps other than PumpPAKs). When
there is a call for an M1 output from the controller, the
contactor will energize, starting the compressor and earth
loop pump.
3. Compressor Operation
A Y1 signal from the thermostat will ask the controller to
initiate heating or cooling. The controller then decides,
based on lockout and anti-short-cycle periods, when to
bring the compressor on. The M1 output of the controller
energizes the compressor. This compressor stays on until
on the thermostat is satisfied.
4. 4-Way Valve Control
The controller energizes the 4-way reversing valve to
direct the flow of refrigerant. When the thermostat calls
for cooling on the O terminal, the controller energizes its
O output to send control power to the reversing valve
(VR) to switch the refrigerant circuit to the cooling mode.
5. Compressor Lockouts
A compressor lockout occurs if the high-pressure, low
pressure (in heating mode), or freeze protection pressure
switches open. The controller blocks the signal from the
thermostat to the contactor that normally would energize
the compressor. In the event of a compressor lockout the
controller will send a signal from L on the terminal strip
to an LED on the thermostat to indicate a lockout
condition. This lockout condition means that the unit has
shut itself down to protect itself, and will not come back
on until power has beendisconnected (via the circuit
breaker) to the heat pump for one minute. Problems that
could cause a lockout situation include:
1. Water flow or temperature problems
2. Air flow or temperature problems
3. Internal heat pump operation problems
4. Cold ambient air temperature conditions
(( If a lockout condition exists, the heat pump should not
be reset more than once; a service technician should be
called immediately. II The cause of the lockout must be
determined. Repeated reset may cause damage to the
system.
6. Compressor Anti-Short-Cycle
An anti-short-cycle is a delay period between the time a
compressor shuts down and when it is allowed to come on
again. This protects the compressor and avoids nuisance
lockout conditions. Anti-short-cycles occur after these
three conditions;
1. A 30 second to one minute time-out period occurs
on the compressor before it will start after its last
shutdown.
2. A four minute 35 second delay is incorporated into
the timing function immediately after power is
applied to the heat pump. This occurs only after
reapplying power to the unit. To avoid this
timeout while servicing the unit, apply power,
disconnect and reapply power very quickly. This
can sometimes eliminate the waiting period.
3. A four-minute anti-short-cycle will occur after a
low-pressure switch opens in the cooling mode.
This is done to eliminate nuisance lockout
conditions. If the compressor continuously short
cycles in the cooling mode, shut the thermostat off
and call your service technician.
7.System Diagnostics
The controller is equipped with diagnostic LED lights
which indicate the system status at any particular time.
The lights indicate the following conditions:
1. 24 Volt system power GREEN
2. Fault or Lockout YELLOW
3. Anti-short-cycle mode RED
8. Overflow Detection
An optional overflow detection sensor may be added to
the GeoSource 2000 heat pumps. This sensor is located
in the drain pan, and monitors the amount of water
accumulated in the pan. If the condensate drain becomes

11
clogged or kinked, and the unit is not draining water, the
sensor will shut the heat pump off for an anti-short-cycle
period of approximately 3 minutes and 35 seconds. After
this time, the heat pump will start again if the condensate
has drained. If the water is still present, the unit will go
through anti-short-cycles until the condensate has drained.
This protection switch keeps the condensate from
overflowing the drain pan and possibly leaking onto the
floor or ceiling.
IX. STARTUP
Before applying power to the heat pump, check the
following items:
-Water supply plumbing to the heat pump is
completed and operating. Manually open the water
valves on well systems to check flow. Make sure all
valves are open and air has been purged from a closed
loop system. Never operate the system without
correct water flow.
-All construction dust has been cleaned up and all
sheet-rocking is completed. Construction dust,
especially sheet-rock dust, can plug the air coil and
block airflow. Make sure the filter is clean before
starting the unit.
-Low voltage wiring of the thermostat and any
additional control wiring is complete. Set thermostat
to the “OFF” position.
-All high voltage wiring is correct including fuses,
breakers, and wire sizes.
-The heat pump is located in a warm area (above
45oF). Starting the system with low ambient
temperature conditions is more difficult; do not leave
until the space is brought up to operating
temperatures.
You may now apply power to the unit. A 4 minute 35
second delay on powerup is programmed into the heat
pump before the compressor will operate. During this
time you can verify airflow with the following procedure:
-Place the thermostat in the “FAN ON” position. The
blower should start immediately. Check airflow at
the registers to make sure that they are open and that
air is being distributed throughout the house. When
airflow has been checked, move the thermostat to the
“FAN AUTO” position. The blower should stop.
The following steps will assure that your system is
heating and cooling properly. After the initial power up
period is completed, the red Anti-Short-Cycle indicator
light on the controller will shut off. The heat pump is
now ready for operation.
-Turn the thermostat up to its highest temperature
setting. Place the thermostat to the "HEAT" position.
The blower will start immediately. The compressor
should start 1 to 2 seconds later. The thermostat may
cause its own compressor delay at this time but the
compressor will start after all delays.
-After running the unit for 5 minutes, check the airside
return and supply temperatures. An air temperature
rise of 25oF to 35oF is normal in the heating mode,
but variations in water temperature and water flow
rate can cause variations outside the normal range.
-Turn the thermostat to the “OFF” position. The
blower will shut down immediately, and the
compressor will shut down a few seconds later.
-Next, turn the thermostat down to its lowest setting.
Place the thermostat in the "COOL" position. The
blower will start immediately. The compressor will
start after an anti-short cycle period. The anti-short-
cycle period is indicated by the red light (labeled
ASC) on the controller.
-After the unit has run in cooling for 5 minutes, check
the airside return and supplytemperatures. An air
temperature drop of 15oF to 20oF is normal in the
cooling mode but airflow and humidity can effect
temperature drop.
-Set the thermostat for normal operation.
-Instruct the owner on correct operation of the
thermostat and heat pump. The unit is now
operational.
The heat pump is equipped with both high and low
pressure switches that shut the unit off if the refrigerant
pressure exceeds 400 psi or goes below 25 psi. If the
system exceeds 400 psi, the high-pressure switch will trip
and lock the unit off until power has been disconnected at
the circuit breaker for approximately one minute. System
pressures below 25 psi in the heating mode will trip the
low pressure switch and lock the unit out until the power
supply has been de-energized for one minute. On a well
water system, the freeze protection switch (field installed
part number 75-1028) will activate the lockout at 35 psi in
the heating mode to protect the water coil against freeze
rupture. After resetting a lockout (by disconnecting
power to the unit) verify that both water flow and airflow
are at the recommended levels before energizing the
compressor. DO NOTreset a well water without
verifying water flow. DO NOTreset the system more
than once.
II Repeated resetting of the lockout can cause serious
damage if the reason for the lockouts is not corrected.
NN -If lockout occurs more than once contact your
ECONAR dealer immediately. ((
X. SERVICE
Regular service to a GeoSource 2000 heat pump is very
limited. The biggest factor is changing the air filter.
Other factors could include water coil maintenance on an
open loop system (this maintenance is discussed in
section IV). Setting up regular service checkups with
your ECONAR dealer could be considered. Any major
problems with the heat pump system operation will be
indicated on the thermostat lockout light.

12
A. Filter
The GeoSource 2000 heat pump is equipped with a
disposable air filter. This filter should normally be
replaced once a month during normal usage. During
extreme usage or if system performance has decreased,
the filter should be replaced more often.
A dirty filter will reduce the airflow to the system. This
decrease in airflow will reduce the efficiency and comfort
level of the system. In the heating mode, reduced airflow
may increase the cost of operation and, in extreme cases,
cause system lockout due to high refrigerant pressures. In
the cooling mode, reduced airflow may reduce cooling
capacity and in extreme cases ice the aircoil over, causing
system shutdown due to low refrigerant pressures.
If another filter is used in place of the factory specified
filter, it should also be cleaned or replaced in a timely
manner. Be careful in selecting optional filters so that
excessive external resistance to airflow is not induced.
B. Lockout Lights
A lockout light on the thermostat will light to indicate
major system problems. If lockout occurs, follow the
procedure below:
1) Check for a clean filter and correct water supply from
the earth loop or well water system.
2) Reset the system by disconnecting power at the
circuit breaker for one minute, and then reapplying
power.
3) If shutdown reoccurs, check the indicator lights on
the controller in the unit and review the lockout
troubleshooting guide in section XII of this manual.
4) If lockouts persist, call your ECONAR dealer. Do
not continuously reset the lockout condition or
damage may occur.
C. Preseason Inspection
Before each season, the air coil, drain pan, and condensate
drain should be inspected and cleaned as follows:
-Turn off circuit breakers.
-Remove access panels.
-Clean air coil by vacuuming it with a soft-brush
attachment.
-Remove any foreign matter from the drain pan.
-Flush pan and drain tube with clear water.
-Replace access panels and return power to the unit.
XI. THERMOSTAT
OPERATION
This section covers basic operation of the standard 2-heat
1-cool thermostat that ECONAR carries. This thermostat
is ECONAR part number 70-2002, Honeywell part
number T8511G. If your thermostat is a different style,
please refer to the instructions supplied with that
thermostat.
The settings of the thermostat are controlled with the
“System”, “Fan”, “i”, up key, and down key buttons. The
System and Fan buttons are located behind the flip-down
panel.
By pressing the “System” button, you can control the
mode that the thermostat operates in. The five system
settings are:
1. Em. Heat –Controls backup heating. In this mode,
the heat pump’s compressor is locked out, and only
the backup heating elements (if installed) operate.
2. Heat –Controls normal heating operation.
3. Off –Both heating and cooling are off.
4. Cool –Controls normal cooling operation.
5. Auto –The thermostat automatically changes
between heating and cooling operation, depending
on the indoor temperature.
Note: When the thermostat is set to Auto, there must be
at least a 2oFdifference between the Heating setpoint
temperature and the Cooling setpoint temperature.
The “Fan” button controls the operation of the heat
pump’s blower. The Fan button has two settings:
1. On –The blower operates continuously.
2. Auto –The blower operates with either a heating or
cooling call.
By pressing the “i”, or information, key, you can cycle
through your temperature setpoints. If you wish to
change a temperature setting, press either the up key or
down key when the appropriate mode is displayed. For
example, you wish to change the heating setpoint from
68oFto 70oF. Push the “i” key until the heating setpoint
appears on the LCD display. Then, press the up key until
the desired setpoint is reached. The thermostat will
automatically switch back to the room temperature
display after a few seconds.
If the LED on the bottom of the thermostat is lit, your
heat pump has locked itself out to protect itself. If this
occurs, please see the Compressor Lockout section of this
manual.
If you have additional questions about your thermostat,
please see the installation manual that was sent with the
thermostat.

13
XII. TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE FOR UNIT OPERATION
PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSE CHECKS AND CORRECTIONS
Blown Fuse/Tripped Replace fuse or reset circuit breaker. (Check for correct size
Circuit Breaker fuse and circuit breaker.)
Blown Fuse on Controller Replace fuse on controller. (Check for correct size fuse.)
Broken or Loose Wires Replace or tighten the wires
Voltage Supply Low If voltage is below minimum voltage on data plate, contact local
power company.
Low Voltage Circuit Check 24 volt transformer for burnout or voltage less than 18
Entire unit does volts.
not run Thermostat Set thermostat on "Cool" and lowest temperature setting, unit
should run. Set thermostat on "Heat" and highest temperature
setting, unit should run. If unit does not run in both cases, the
thermostat could be wired incorrectly or be faulty. To prove
faulty or miswired thermostat, disconnect thermostat wires at the
unit and jumper between "R", "Y", and "G" terminals and unit
should run. Replace thermostat with correct heat pump thermostat only.
A substitute may not work properly.
Interruptible Power Check incoming supply voltage.
Thermostat Check setting, calibration, and wiring. If thermostat has an
anticipator, set it at 1.0 or 1.2.
Wiring Check for loose or broken wires at compressor, capacitor, or
contactor.
Blown Fuse Replace fuse or reset circuit breaker. (Check for correct size
fuse or circuit breaker.)
High or Low Pressure The unit could be off on the high or low pressure cutout control.
Controls Check water GPM, air CFM and filter, ambient temperature and
loss of refrigerant. If the unit still fails to run, check for faulty
pressure controls individually. Replace if defective.
Defective Capacitor Check capacitor. If defective; remove, replace, and rewire correctly.
Voltage Supply Low If voltage is below minimum voltage specified on the data plate,
Blower motor contact local power company. Check voltage at compressor for
runs but possible open terminal.
compressor Low Voltage Circuit Check 24 volt transformer for burnout or voltage less than 18
does not, or volts. With a voltmeter, check signal from thermostat at Y to X,
compressor M1 on controller to X, and the capacitor voltage drop. Replace
short cycles. component that does not energize.
Compressor Overload In all cases an "internal" compressor overload is used. If the
Open compressor motor is too hot, the overload will not reset until the
compressor cools down. If the compressor is cool and the
overload does not reset, there may be a defective or open
overload. Replace the compressor.
Compressor Motor Internal winding grounded to the compressor shell. Replace the
Grounded compressor. If compressor burnout occurs, install filter drier at
suction line.
Compressor Windings Check continuity or the compressor windings with an ohmmeter.
Open If the windings are open, replace the compressor.
Seized Compressor Try an auxiliary capacitor in parallel with the run capacitor
momentarily. If the compressor still does not start, replace it.
Thermostat The differential is set too close to the thermostat. Readjust heat
Unit Short anticipator to 1.0 or 1.2.
Cycles Thermostat Improperly located thermostat (e.g. near kitchen), inaccurately
sensing the comfort level in the living area.

14
PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSE CHECKS AND CORRECTIONS
Unit Short Wiring and Controls Loose wiring connections, or control contactor defective.
Cycles Compressor Overload Defective compressor overload, check and replace if necessary.
(Continued) If the compressor runs too hot, it may be due to a insufficient
refrigerant charge.
Water Lack of sufficient pressure, temperature, and/or quantity of water.
Unit Undersized Recalculate heat gains or losses for space to be conditioned. If
excessive, rectify by adding insulation, shading, etc.
Loss of Conditioned Air Check for leaks in ductwork or introduction of ambient air through
by Leaks doors and windows.
Thermostat Improperly located thermostat (e.g. near kitchen), inaccurately
sensing the comfort level in the living area. Check anticipator
setting.
Insufficient Airflow Lack of adequate airflow or improper distribution of air. Check the
cooling or motor speed or duct sizing. Check the filter, it should be inspected
heating. every month and changed if dirty. Remove or add resistance
accordingly.
Refrigerant Charge Low on refrigerant charge causing inefficient operation. Adjust only
after checking CFM and GPM.
Compressor Check for defective compressor. If discharge pressure is too low
and suction pressure is too high, compressor is not pumping
properly. Replace compressor.
Reversing Valve Defective reversing valve creating bypass of refrigerant from
discharge to suction side of compressor. When it is necessary to
replace the reversing valve, wrap it with a wet cloth and direct heat
away. Excessive heat can damage the valve.
Desuperheater The desuperheater circuit (in-line fuse) should be disconnected
during cold weather to allow full heating load to the house.
Dirty Filter Check filter. Clean or replace if found dirty.
Thermostat Improperly Set Check if thermostat is set at correct temperature.
Unit will not Defective Thermostat Check thermostat operation. Replace if found defective.
operate on Incorrect Wiring Check for broken, loose, or incorrect wires.
"heating" Blower Motor Defective Check blower motor in one of the other switch positions. If it does
not operate, check for open overload. If overload is open and
motor is not overheated, replace it.
Reversing Valve Does Not
Shift Defective solenoid valve will not energize. Replace solenoid coil.
Unit does not Reversing Valve Does Not The solenoid valve is de-energized due to miswiring at the unit or
cool Shift, the Valve is Stuck thermostat--correct wiring. Replace if valve is tight or frozen and
(Heats only) will not move. Switch from heating to cooling a few times to loosen
valve.
Compressor Make sure the compressor is not in direct contact with the base or
sides of the cabinet.
Cold surroundings can cause liquid slugging. Increase ambient
temperature.
Blower and Blower Motor Blower wheel hitting the casing. Adjust for clearance and
alignment. Bent blower, check and replace if damaged. Loose
blower wheel on shaft, check and tighten. Defective bearings,
check and replace.
Noisy Contactors A clattering or humming noise in the contactor could be due to
Operation control voltage less than 18 volts. Check for low supply voltage,
low transformer output, or extra long runsof thermostat wires.
If the contacts are pitted or corroded , or coil is defective, repair
or replace.

15
PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSE CHECKS AND CORRECTIONS
Rattles and Vibrations Check for loose screws, panels, or internal components. Tighten
and secure. Copper piping could be hitting the metal surfaces.
Noisy Carefully readjust by bending slightly.
Operation Water and Airborne Undersized ductwork will cause high airflow velocities and noisy
(Continued) Noises operation. Excessive water through the water-cooled heat
exchanger will cause a squealing sound. Check the water flow to
ensure adequate flow for good operation, while eliminating the
noise.
Dirty Air Filter Check filter. Clean or replace if found dirty.
Airflow Lack of adequate airflow or improper distribution of air. Check the
motor speed and duct sizing. Check the filter, it should be inspected
Evaporator every month and changed if dirty. Check for closed registers.
(air coil) Remove or add resistance accordingly.
ices over Evaporator Blower Motor Check for overheated evaporator blower motor and tripped
Tripping Off on Overload overload. Replace motor if necessary.
Unit Operating at Too Low If room temperature drops below 65 degrees, the evaporator may
aRoom Temperature ice over.
Unit Not Level or Pitched Level vertical units, and horizontal units which use bottom condensate
Water drips Correctly drain. Pitch horizontal units that use side condensate drain.
from unit Condensate Drain Line Clean condensate drain.
Kinked or Plugged
XIII. TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE FOR LOCKOUT CONDITIONS
If the heat pump goes into lockout on a high or low pressure switch, the cause of the lockout can be narrowed down by
knowing the operating mode and which pressure switch the unit locked out on. The following table will help track down the
problem once this information is known. NOTE: A lockout condition is a result of the heat pump shutting itself off to
protect itself. Never bypass the lockout circuit. Seriousdamage can be caused by the system operating without lockout
protection.
MODE LOCKOUT CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE
High Pressure (Head) -Loss/lack of airflow through air coil (dirty air filter, closed vents,
(Condenser/Air Side) blower, restricted ductwork, etc.)
Heating -High air temperature entering heat pump
-Dirty (fouled) air coil
-Extremely high water temperature to the evaporator, raising
compressor capacity and overloading condenser
-Overcharged refrigerant circuit
Low Pressure (Suction) -Loss/lack of flow through earth coupled coil
(Evaporator/Earth -Low fluid temperature operation in the earth loop
Coupled Side) -Freezing fluid in heat exchanger (lack of antifreeze)
-Undercharged/overcharged refrigerant circuit
-Expansion valve/sensing bulb malfunction
High Pressure (Head) -Loss/lack of water flow
(Condenser/Earth -High fluid temperature operation in the earth loop
Coupled Side) -Dirty (fouled) condenser coil
Cooling -Overcharged refrigerant circuit
Low Pressure (Suction) -Loss/lack of airflow through air coil (dirty filter, closed vents,
(Evaporator/Air Side) blower, restricted ductwork, etc.)
-Low air temperature entering the heat pump (thermostat setpoint
too low, etc.)
-Air coil freezing up (low airflow, lack of charge, etc.)
-Undercharged/overcharged refrigerant circuit
-Expansion valve/sensing bulb malfunction

16
XIV. ADDITIONAL FIGURES AND TABLES
Figure 4 –Horizontal Unit Hanging Bracket
INDICATOR LIGHTS
CONDITION PWR ASC LP HP FP OFD COMMENTS
AC power applied Blown fuse or power removed.
" XXASC indicator on for 4' 35" on power initialization.
" XPower applied -unit running or waiting for a call to run.
Run cycle complete XXASC indicator ON for 30 to 60 seconds after compressor shutdown.
LP (F/A heating -before call) XXIndicates LP switch position (ON = open).
LP (F/A heating -after call) XXXLockout, indicators latched and resettable by removing power.
LP (F/A cooling -before call) XXIndicates LP switch position (ON = open).
LP (F/A cooling -after call) XXXLP delayed 90 seconds on initial call, then ASC and LP
indicator ON while switch is open.
" XXflash LP indicator will flash if switch closed during ASC period.
Indicator reset after ASC period.
HP (F/A heating -before call) XXIndicates HP switch position (ON = open).
HP (F/A heating -after call) XXXLockout, indicators latched and resettable by removing power.
HP (F/A cooling -before call) XXIndicates HP switch position (ON = open).
HP (F/A cooling -after call) XXXLockout, indicators latched and resettable by removing power.
FP (F/A heating -before call) XXIndicates FP switch position (ON = open).
FP (F/A heating -after call) XXXLockout, indicators latched and resettable by removing power.
FP (F/A cooling) XFP switch disabled in cooling mode.
Condensate Overflow Detector XXIndicator ON while water present on sensor (optional).
(F/A heating)
Condensate Overflow Detector XXIndicator ON while water present on sensor (optional).
(F/A cooling -before call)
Condensate Overflow Detector XXXIndicator ON while water present on sensor, ASC period with
(F/A cooling -after call) call for F/A cooling only (optional).
Table 6 –Controller #20-1038 LED Indicator Chart

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Figure 5 –Wiring Diagram, Forced Air Models [G(V,H)xxx-x-TxOx]

Figure 6 –Wiring Diagram, Forced Air Models [GH(98,120)x-x-TxTx]
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