Farr 6000 User manual

:
Original Farr 6000 Owners Manual
This edition produced by the Farr Trailer
Yacht Association for use by its members
www.farrtraileryachts.org
2009

Important
For your own protection we
recommend that you accurately
record this information so that
should your boat be lost or stolen
you have a complete personal record
of all relevant details.
Who are
Sea Nymph
Boats Ltd
This manual is the property of:-
Name ____________________________________
A
ddress _________________________________
Boat Model ____________________________ Boat Serial No.
Hull Colour ____________________________ Deck Colour ________________________
Sail Registration No. __________________
_______________________________________ Upholstery Colour
Trailer Registration No. ________________ W.O.F. Expiry Date__________________
Purchased from______________________________________________________________
Date ___________ Address ___________________________________________________
Phone _____________ Auxiliary Outboard Serial No. ___________________________
Insurance Company ___________________________________
Policy Number _________________________ Renewal Date _______________________
Thank you
For displaying your confidence in us
by selecting a Sea Nymph Farr 6000
boat. The designer Bruce Farr and
the staff of Sea Nymph Boats Ltd
have utilised their skills to ensure
that your new Farr 6000 excels all
other boats in its class in safety,
comfort, performance and
workmanship. In the following
sections you will find much
information and many hints that will
help you to become more familiar
with your Farr 6000. The purpose of
1
this manual is to inform and
familiarise both the novice and the
seasoned skipper with his new
equipment. It will not tell you
everything there is to know about
trailer yachting but the information in
this manual combined with a little
common sense will enable you to
have many seasons of maximum
pleasure with minimum effort. You
have chosen your craft wisely and
we wish you many years of boating
pleasure. Sea Nymph Boats Limited
In early 1964 Sea Nymph was
created as a manufacturer of
fibreglass dinghies in a small Glen
Eden factory. By 1978 over 6500 Sea
Nymph boats have been constructed
and the Company operates from a
36,000 square foot factory producing
a range of 17 different models.
The factory boasts a 12,000 square
foot temperature controlled
laminating shop, a separate joinery
and woodshop, an upholstery shop
and an assembly floor of some
24,000 square feet total. Sea Nymph
How was you
r
Farr 6000
Built
?
For a better understanding of your
new Farr 6000 we would like to
describe, briefly, Sea Nymphs
construction methods. The Farr 6000
is manufactured on a station to
station assembly line method (the
boat moves to the worker) to
increase efficiency and assure top
quality control. Component parts are
pre-assembled in Sea Nymph's own
fibreglass, upholstery, engineering,
spar and woodshops, then installed
on the assembly line. This allows
maximum quality control over
component items as well. Sea
Nymph use only first quality
have achieved their position as
leaders in the industry by a steady
but planned growth and their
insistence on top quality. Their aims
are simple — to built top quality boats
designed by top designers. These
boats must stand the tests of quality,
durability and price comparison. All
Sea Nymph boats are sold with a
two year warranty — the most
comprehensive in the business — a
reflection of Sea Nymph's
confidence in their product.
fibreglass strand, woven roving and
resins to ensure superior strength,
safety and maximum finish. Only
marine quality plywood is used for
reinforcement and all structural
wood components are completely
sealed in fibreglass resins. All
rigging, deckhardware, sails and
equipment are of top quality and
have been selected for strength and
durability. Every Farr 6000 is subject
to the same strict quality control and
each boat is weighed on removal
from the mould to ensure it complies
with the weight tolerances allowed.2

Farr 6000
Owners
Association
General
Maintenance
of your Farr 6000
boat and trailer
Why join the Owners Association?
You as a Farr 6000 owner bought
your boat with one thing in mind —
to have fun — and so did every other
Farr 6000 owner. Therefore you all
have something in common. As you
sail your boat more you will discover
that you can have a lot of fun sailing
with other Farr 6000's whether
racing around the bay together or
exchanging ideas around the
barbeque on the beach. The next
natural step is to get together
periodically to fully enjoy your Farr
6000. The Owners Association offers
you a chance to meet new friends
with a common interest and provides
the opportunity of periodically
participating in organised activities
enjoying family outings, exchanges
of information, social activities and a
chance to compete in races,
enhancing your sailing ability and
giving you further sailing enjoyment.
The Farr 6000 Owners Association
has a basic consideration:- "To
extend each owners enjoyment of
his Farr 6000 through organised
family orientated sailing activities,
social activities and exchanges of
information".
The Association aims to encourage
the establishment of local fleets
where possible and will encourage
the organisation of regional and
National regattas.
The Association is run by the owners
for the owners.
Your Farr 6000 has been built in top
quality materials — so you own a
boat requiring a minimum of
maintenance — however the future
value of your boat will certainly
depend a great deal on its
appearance. For best results follow
these recommendations.
Gelcoat finish maintenance
1. After use in salt water hose your
Farr 6000 off with fresh water as
soon as possible preferably drying
with a chamois leather. This
removes salt from the fittings and
maintains the high gloss finish of
your deck and hull.
2. Periodically polish your Farr 6000
with a good quality marine wax or
car polish to protect the gelcoat
surface.
3. If you cannot store your boat
under permanent cover a loose
cover to protect the gelcoat from
continuous direct sunlight would
be a good long term investment.
Gelcoat staining and
discolouration Any problems of
staining or discolouration of
gelcoat can generally be removed
by one of the fibreglass cleaners
available. For best results follow the
manufacturers recommendations.
If in doubt contact your
marine dealer. Repairing
Gelcoat chips, gouges, scratches
It is almost unavoidable that during
the life of your boat damage will
occur to the gelcoat or coloured
surface. This is normally not as
serious as you might think. Materials
for repair are not costly and the
repair can normally be done by the
inexperienced.
Scratches
If the scratch does not penetrate
deeply into the gelcoat surface use a
rubbing compound. Dampen a soft
rag or use a power buff. Apply the
rubbing compound and a lot of
elbow grease. The scratch may not
disappear completely but its
noticeability will decrease.
Gouges and chips
To repair simply supply your Farr
6000 marine dealer with the serial
number of your boat and he will
obtain the correct colour of gelcoat
patch paste and catalyst for you.
Then adopt the following procedure.
1. Clean the area to be repaired of
dirt, gelcoat flakes, oil etc.
2. Using a small portion of patch
paste on a piece of cardboard or
flat wood, mix in thoroughly the
recommended proportion of
catalyst.
3. Apply the patch paste to the chip
or gouge with a razor blade or
small putty knife taking care to
match the contour of the area
being repaired. (It is better to
have more than not enough paste
on the repair).
4. If the repair is underneath the
boat or in an awkward spot a
piece of sticky tape may be
required to hold the patch paste
in position until it hardens.
5. Allow to harden thoroughly. In
most climates 1 to 2 hours should
be sufficient.
6.Shape the patch using fine wet
3 4

General Maintenance Cont. General Maintenance Cont.
sand paper on a sanding block
taking care not to rub the
surrounding gelcoat areas to any
great extent.
7. Finish using automotive rubbing
compound in the same manner
as for scratches.
8. Restore the shine with a
recommended car or marine
polish.
NOTE:- IF YOU ARE IN DOUBT as
to the extent of gelcoat damage or
you suspect that the fibreglass
beneath the gouge may be damaged
consult your Farr 6000 marine dealer
before attempting repairs.
Woodwork maintenance
The exterior handrails, hatch covers,
tiller and interior ladder are painted
with a top quality marine varnish
before leaving the factory. They will
periodically need recoating and the
following procedure should be
followed.
1. Wash to remove all salt and dry
thoroughly.
2. Sand lightly with a fine grade of
dry paper.
3.Apply 2 to 3 coats of any
recommended marine varnish
with a light sand between coats.
Rigging
It is a natural tendency to forget to
look at your rigging until something
wears out completely. Make it a
habit to check rigging screws,
shackles, and mast fittings each time
before you sail. A periodic spray with
"CRC" or similar lubricant on rigging
screws, snap shackles etc. will keep
them corrosive free and in top
5
working order.
Silicone spray on the luff groove of
the mast will make for easier
hoisting of the mainsail.
Sails
If possible fold your sails before
bagging them. This minimises
wrinkling and helps the set. Try not
to bag wet sails. If you cannot find
anywhere else to dry them spread
them out inside the boat if they are
damp and not in use. A periodic
hose with fresh water will help to
keep your sails in good condition.
Have any small rips or tears repaired
immediately they are noticed before
they become large rips and tears.
Vinyl upholstery
Resistance: All vinyl coated fabrics
are remarkably resistant to most
stains. A sponge dipped in warm,
soapy water and wiped over lightly
will remove most marks easily.
However, a few substances when
spilt or smeared on vinyl coatea
fabrics will stain unless care is taken
promptly. In all cases, the faster the
stain is attacked, the easier it will be
to remove. Whenever removing any
stain or mark, always wipe from the
outside of the stain towards its
centre to avoid spreading it.
Ballpoint Pen Ink: Method A. Make
a paste with Fuller's Earth (Available
from local Chemists) and a
household bleach, mixed with a few
drops of methylated spirits. Apply to
the surface of the stain and allow the
paste to dry for 3 hours. Remove
with soap and water. More than one
application may be needed if the
stain has been present for some
time.
Method B. Apply methylated spirits
alone, by swabbing with cotton wool
(do not rub too severely or the print
may be removed). Follow by washing
with soap and water if the stain is
seen to within one hour of
occurrence. After one hour Method
A is recommended as the surface of
the stain is removed using
methylated spirits.
Lipstick, Shoe Polish: With a dry rag
carefully remove as much of the
stain as possible. Gently wipe the
affected area with a cotton cloth
moistened with methylated spirits.
Follow by washing over with warm
soapy water. Prompt attention will
minimise any discolouration.
Butter: Easily removed by warm
soapy water. If left longer than a
couple of days severe stiffening of
the vinyl occurs.
Tomato Sauce: A mild staining
agent, easily removed by warm
soapy water up to one week after
occurrence.
Chewing Gum: Set the gum hard
with ice then scrape clean. Wipe
with methylated spirits, then with
warm soapy water.
Blood: Cold water will remove blood
stains if applied immediately. If
marks persist, use ammonia. Then
wash with warm, soapy water.
Chocolate: Remove excess
chocolate and wipe over with a cloth
moistened with methylated spirits.
Wash with warm, soapy water.
Toffee: Scrape the stained surface
clean and wash with very hot
water. Wipe with a cloth moistened
with methylated spirits, then with
warm soapy water.
Battery acid: Battery acid is a severe
corrosive agent which may destroy
the surface of your fabric or
permanently stain it. Apply ammonia
quickly to the acid to neutralise it.
Wash with warm, soapy water.
Always dilute the acid quickly.
Liquor and Fruit Stains: Wash
stained area with very hot water and
allow to dry thoroughly. Wipe with
clean cloth moistened with
methylated spirits. Do not use warm,
soapy water as this sets the stain.
Ice Cream: Try warm, soapy water.
If not successful, wash repeatedly
with very hot soapy water, then
cold water. Wipe with a cloth
moistened with methylated spirits,
then warm, soapy water again. Stain
may
become permanent unless removed
quickly.
Tar: Tar is virtually impossible to
remove if left for any length of time.
Quick action with a little kerosene or
mineral turpentine on a clean cloth
is recommended. Then wash with
warm, soapy water.
Paint: While the paint is still wet or
tacky, apply mineral turpentine with
a clean cloth. Wash with warm,
soapy water. Again, immediate
action is essential as dry paint
cannot be removed without
damaging the fabric.
It is important to note that no
abrasive cleaners or cleaning agents
containing solvents other than those
6

General Maintenance Cont. General Maintenance Cont.
recommended should ever be used
on vinyl coated fabrics. Misuse of
solvents can permanently damage
the fabric's finish. Brand-name
cleaners are effective only if used
strictly in accordance with their
instructions.
Trailer
A. Trailer maintenance:- Your Farr
6000 trailer is either of modern
aluminium construction or
galvanised steel. In either case the
following check list should be
followed to maintain your trailer in
top condition.
2. It is essential that the wheel
bearings are kept well greased at
all times.
3. Hose your trailer down with fresh
water after salt water use.
4. Before towing check tyre
pressures and tread, lights and
warrant of fitness, and
registration.
5. Periodically check that the side
supporting pads are correctly
adjusted. NOTE The total weight of
the boat must be supported by the
centre rollers of the trailer
under the keel and not the side
support pads which are for
stabilising the boat only and
should be set approximately 1/4"
from the hull to allow for easy
launching.
1. Periodically check that your
wheel studs are tight. Remember
— It is human nature to overlook a
trailer which is out of sight
beneath your boat. Your boat and
trailer weigh almost one ton
when towed behind your
vehicle. For your own and
everyone elses safety a
roadworthy trailer is essential.
B. Trailer use
1. When towing your Farr 6000 long
distances remember to ease the
keel winch off so that the weight
of the keel rests on the trailer and
is not suspended by the wire
only.
2. Check that the trailer safety
chain is connected and that the
rudder, outboard motor, fuel
tank and pop top are securely
fastened.
3. Always use a safety line from
the boat to the trailer when
trailering the boat or
launching or retrieving.
How to back up a trailer:- We will
attempt to show you how it is done in
pictures. However, practice makes
perfect, so we suggest an empty
supermarket parking lot can be the
biggest benefit.
Note: When backing, be sure to
have a lookout — your visibility may
be severely impaired.
1. Turn the front wheels of the car
the opposite direction from which
you want to go.
2. Once turn is started, follow the
trailer as you would normally
backing the car.
3. When rounding turns on
highways or streets, do not cut
corners.
4. Equip your vehicle with a left
hand mirror — a real benefit when
passing and parking.
Backing to right
Backing to left
Following thru turn
7 8

Safety features
of the Farr 6000
Safet
y
at sea
From conception safety was the top
priority in the design brief for the Farr
6000. As a result the design
incorporates the following built in
features which make for an
extremely safe yacht.
Hull stability
The hull form is beamy with
powerful stern sections which give
excellent stability both when the
boat is at rest and under sail or
power.
Self righting capabilities
The self righting capability of the Farr
6000 is very high compared to other
trailer yachts. The hull design together
with the ballast ratio (Cast iron
aerofoiled plate 95.25 kgs (210 Ibs)
and internal lead ballast 147.42 kgs
(325 Ibs) total ballast 242.67 kgs (535
lbs) gives the following self righting
moment.
with plate up 35.83 kg (79 Ibs)
with plate down 47.62 kg (105 lbs)
Note:- The self righting test is done by
measuring the amount of upward pull
when the boat is in a horizontal
position. The measurement is taken on
the mast at a point 7.01 metres (23
feet) up from a point halfway between
the cabin sole (floor) and cabin top.
Built in Buoyancy:- The hull contains
3 separate areas of built in closed
cell foam buoyancy totalling 20.16
cubic feet which makes the Farr
6000 unsinkable.
Non Skid Deck:- Ample non skid
areas on the decks provide safe
surface for moving about the boat.
Wrap around externally mounted
windscreen
The screen is amply supported
behind with fibreglass pillars and is
mounted on the exterior face of the
cabin sides so that it cannot be
driven into the boat in adverse
conditions.
Self draining external anchor locker
The anchor locker is situated
externally for easy access and has a
self drainer to remove excess water.
(Always secure the end of the warp
on the bollard).
Self draining cockpit
The cockpit floor has two separate
self drainers through the transom.
Be sure that they are kept clear at all
times.
The Farr 6000 has been classified by
the New Zealand Trailer Yacht
Association as an Approved Trailer
Yacht. It has been approved for
categories 4, 5, & 6 of the NZ Trailer
Yacht Association Safety Standards
and with the additional of the
appropriate safety equipment it can
comply with Category 3.
While sailing is generally a safe
sport, like any other activity
carelessness or lack of knowledge
can be dangerous. A little common
sense and attention to a few
precautions go a long way towards
protecting your safety in anything you
do, including sailing.
New Zealand and Australian waters
provide you with some of the best
boating playgrounds in the world. So
that you may obtain the maximum
pleasure from them and keep your
boating as it should be — trouble free
— we would strongly recommend that
you use the following check list
BEFORE you launch your boat.
HAVE you?
1. Checked the weather
forecast and tides?
2. Advised somebody ashore of
your intentions?
3. Sufficient life jackets of the
correct size for all aboard?
4. First Aid Kit and knowledge
of how to use it?
5. Anchor/Chain and sufficient
warp?
6. Correct clothing and
protective gear for all weather?
7. Ensured that your boat is not
overloaded with people or
unnecessary gear?
8. Suitable Fire Extinguishers?
9. Radio Transmitter, or Flares
or Flag to attract attention
should assistance be
required?
10. Secured the bung?
11. Bucket, pump or bailing
device?
12. Tool Kit?
13. Some form of auxilliary power.
(Outboard, paddles, oars)?
14. Sufficient tools to carry out
minor repairs to rigging and
motor?
15. Complied with all relevant
regulations and
recommendations of
Harbour and Coastguard
authorities?
16. Familiarised you and
your crew with the area
where you intend sailing
(and checked charts)?
9 10

Safety at sea Cont.
Launching
and retrieving
your Farr
When At Sea Remember —
1. To know and obey the rules
of the sea and local bylaws
2. To keep a good lookout
3. To know the distress signals
4. Do not mix alcohol and
boating
lf in rough or open sea fix the
sideboards in place, secure the
forward hatch and tie down the
poptop. lf conditions are worsening
always reef early. The reef can
always be removed again. Do not
hesitate to wear a lifejacket if
conditions are rough or if
non-swimmers are aboard. Safety
harnesses are an excellent additional
safeguard. Learn to manoeuvre your
boat under sail, rather than rely on
the motor.
Should you be unfortunate enough
to suffer a mishap whilst at sea
always follow the cardinal rule of the
sea — STAY WITH THE BOAT. lt is
easy to see and it will not sink. Do
not try to swim for safety.
For a detailed summary of safety
equipment required to meet the
various categories under the New
Zealand Trailer Yacht Association
SAFETY STANDARDS we refer you
to these regulations a copy of which
are supplied with each boat.
One of the most important factors
contributing to an enjoyable outing
in any trailer borne craft is a quick
trouble free launching and retrieving.
With a little planning, preparation,
and practice the exercise can be
made simple and efficient.
We list below some hints which will
help towards a trouble free
launching or retrieving.
Launching:-
1. Check the weather forecast and
wind direction.
2. Check the tide.
3. lf possible select a launching
ramp which is sheltered from the
prevailing wind and has ample
water. lt is obviously easier to
launch and retrieve when the
wind is blowing offshore.
4. lf you have no alternative but to
launch into an on shore wind the
following hints could be of use.
a. lf you have an auxiliary motor
load your passengers aboard
and motor off the ramp prior to
hoisting sails.
b. lf you have a dinghy and there
is a pile offshore a line rowed
out around the pile will enable
you to pull the boat into
deeper water prior to hoisting
sails. Alternatively an anchor
can be rowed out and used in
a similar manner.
5. Launching procedure. For a
trouble free launching ensure that
everything possible is readied on
the boat before commencing to
launch.
a. Locate and park in the correct
rigging area.
DANGER:- BEWARE OF
OVERHEAD WlRES!
a. Raise the mast and rig the
boat (Refer to page 16 for
detailed rigging
instructions).
b. Check that the rudder is
in place.
c. Rig mainsail and jib and
attach halyards and sheets so
that these sails are ready for
immediate hoisting (Refer to
page 23 for detailed
instructions).Lash them down
with easily released ties.
d. Take weight of keel on
the winch again (but
remember never to overwind
winch or you may break the
hoist wire).
e. Remove numberplate and
lights from the trailer.
f. Undo trailer tiedown straps.
g. Stow all personal gear in the
boat in its proper place so
that you do not have loose
gear lying about after
launching.
h. Attach a launching line to
the forward cleat
(approximately 6 to 8
metres) so that the boat can
be controlled from the shore
after launching.
i. Check the bung.
j
.Posting one of your crew as a
lookout back the boat
down the ramp and as far
into the water as possible
without endangering car.
Before leaving the vehicle
make sure the hand
11 12

Launching Cont.
Retrieving
brake is on securely and the
vehicle is in first gear.
k. While one person holds the
launching line disconnect the
safety rope on your boat and
the winch hook from the towing
eye.
l. Push the boat off the trailer. At
most ramps the boat will roll off
the trailer very easily. lf
necessary use the tiltboom
mechanism on the trailer to
give a higher launch angle.
m.Leaving a crew member to
hold the boat off the ramp
park your car and trailer in the
authorised parking area. Think
of your fellow boaties and Do
Not leave your vehicle in a
position which will hinder others
launching.
n. At this point you are ready to
depart. lf you are on a busy
ramp get clear as soon as
possible to allow others to
launch.
p. Hoist your mainsail first. Your
Farr 6000 will sail well under
main alone and you can hoist
the jib in your own time.
q. Lower the keel and rudder
blade when water depth
permits and secure rudder
clamp and holding down lines.
Retrieving
This is largely common sense but
once again the method of approach
is effected by the wind direction.
Whatever the wind direction if you
use an auxiliary motor it is obviously
easiest to approach the ramp under
motor power only. The correct
procedure for this is as follows.
1. While still sailing lower the
outboard bracket and start the
auxiliary motor.
2. Allow the boat to come bow to
wind and lower and furl securely
the main and jib.
4. Wind up the keel. The
winch is powerful and overwinding
when the keel is fully up can
damage your wire. Tighten up only
finger tight on the handle.
5. Release the rudder clamp and
rudder tiedown cord so that the
rudder can be raised when
required.
6. Approach the ramp slowly under
motor with a crew member
stationed on the bow to fend off.
7. Raise the rudder blade clear of
the water in adequate time to
prevent it hitting the bottom and
cleat the holding cord on the
tiller.
Note: When approaching a ramp,
wharf or other boat it is always wise
to approach SLOWLY and under
control, but always keep enough way
on for manoeuvering.
Approach Under Sail
lf you choose to approach under sail
with an on shore wind it is
recommended to drop and furl the
mainsail prior to approach. The run
in can then be made under jib only,
following a similar procedure as that
recommended for a motor approach
except that care should be taken to
see that the jib halyard and sheet are
clear so that the sail can be dropped
quickly and efficiently when required.
Remember that a moving boat has
some considerable momentum after
the sails have been dropped so do
not leave the jib hoisted too long. For
an offshore wind the keel and rudder
must obviously be left down until the
last moment and the sails eased and
the boat brought head to wind right
on the ramp. For the beginner we
would recommend that you practice
this manoeuvre on an empty ramp
on a light day until you have
perfected the timing.
Retrieving on to trailer:-
1. Back the trailer into the water
leaving vehicle in gear and
handbrake securely fastened.
2. Release winch wire until it can be
hooked through the towing eye
and wind the boat on to the
trailer.
lf necessary use the tilt on the
trailer for ease of retrieving.
3. IMPORTANT Attach a safety line
from the boat to the trailer before
pulling up the ramp. Otherwise
should your winch, wire, or hook
break half way up the ramp you
could quite easily end up with the
boat falling on to the ramp. lt is a
recommended practice to always
use a safety line from the boat to
the trailer when trailering the
boat.
4. When trailering always ease off
the keel winch so that the weight
of the keel rests on the trailer and
is not wholly taken by the wire.
13 14

12 16
Assembly
and rigging
instructions
13
Recommended
on board
tool kit
and spares
1. Spare shackles
2. Spare lengths of cord and ropes
3. Spare navigation light bulbs
4. Torch and spare batteries
5. Pliers, spanners, screwdriver,
vicegrips, hacksaw
6. Outboard tools e.g. sparkplug,
plug spanner
7. Spare keel winch wire
8. Lubricating oil
9. lnsulation tape
10.Spare sail battens
11.Tube of sealant
12.Spare rigging screw barrel
13.Spare anchor and warp
Hull, Deck and Rig details are
as follows:
(1) Hull
(2) Deck
(3) Window
(4) Keel
(5) Rudder
(6) Mainsail cunningham
(7) Boom yang
(8) Mainsheet
(9) Main Boom
(10) Mainsail
(11) Reef points
(12) Battens
(13) Mast
(14) Forestay
(15) Jib
(16) Side stays
(17) Lower stays
(18) Spreaders
15 16

Dec
k
Layout
(1) Forestay fitting
(2) Fairlead
(3) Mooring cleat
(4) Self draining anchor locker
(5) Forward hatch
(6) Mast step
(7) Jib halyard fairlead
(8) Main (or spinnaker) halyard
fairlead.
(9) Chain plates
(10) Halyard cleat — cleat for
jib halyard
17
(11) Halyard cleat — cleat for main
(or spinnaker) halyard
(12) Jib sheet slide & track
(13) Jib sheet, fairlead & cleat
(14) Mainsheet traveller
(15) Traveller adjustment line & cleat
(16) Keel winch
(17) Locker
(18) Aft mooring cleat
(19) Self draining cockpit
(20) Pop top
Your Farr 6000 comes as a complete
rig with all fittings, halyards and
sheets necessary to commence
sailing as soon as assembly and
rigging is completed.
As delivered from the factory your
Farr 6000 comprises the following
items:
1. The boat complete with all
internal mouldings, foam
buoyancy, interior squabs,
bulkheads, hatches, and deck
fittings for mainsail and jib.
2. Aluminium tapered mast fully
rigged for mainsail and jib.
3. Aluminium boom full rigged
4. Mainsail and battens in sail bag
5. Jib in sail bag
6. Complete rudder assembly and
tiller
7. Jibsheets, mainsheet, shackles,
etc. in main sail bag.
Rigging
Instructions
1. Shift the mast aft from trailering
position, so that the base of the mast
fits into the mast step. (Fig. 1) Place
the pin through the holes provided and
put the locking pin in. (Fig. 2). Note:
Leave the aft mast support in place to
rest the mast on until it is raised.
2. Clear the upper side stays and
attach to the aft hole in the
18.

20
19
Rigging Instructions Cont.
chainplates with the 6 mm shackles
provided. Tighten up the rigging
screws so that there is approximately
12 mm of thread in each end of the
barrel. (Fig 3)
Note: Leave the lower stays off until
the mast is raised and the forestay
adjusted to the right tension. After
the initial set up the lower stays can
be left attached to the forward holes
in the chainplates. (Fig. 3).
3. Place side stay wires through the
grooves in the end of the spreaders
and tape into place.
Note: Refer to note 13 for
instructions on the angle of the
spreaders.
4. Pull the wire jib halyard out to
maximum and cleat off the rope end
of the halyard.
5. Attach the mainsheet assembly
between the wire jib halyard and the
forestay fitting. (Figs. 4 & 5)
Danger
Extreme caution must be observed
when erecting your mast or
launching or sailing near overhead
wires. A mast near wires could be
fatal.
Rigging Instructions Cont.
6. Making sure the forestay is clear,
lift the mast into position.
(Figs. 6, 7 & 8)
7. When lifting the mast to the
upright position, make sure that the
side stay shackles are lying correctly
and are not twisted.

Rigging Instructions Cont.
8. Take up tension on the mainsheet
(Fig. 9) and pull the mast forward
until the forestay rigging screw can be
shackled onto the forestay fitting.
(Fig. 10). Then tighten up the rigging
screw (Fig. ll) and remove the
mainsheet.
9.The mast should be set up so that
it is nearly upright, i.e. with very little
rake aft. A method of checking this
rake is to level the boat trailer with
a spirit level, and then use the spirit
level to ensure the mast is
approximately vertical.
10. Similarly, check the mast
athwartships by measuring that the
distance from the top of the mast to
the top of the chainplates is the
same on both sides, or use jib
halyard.
11. Stay Tension — When the mast is
in the correct upright position, the
forestay and upper sidestays should
be tensioned to an extent where they
are quite firm, i.e. The forestay
should be capable of sagging only
about 50 mm (2 inches) with a
reasonable load on it.
Rigging Instructions Cont.
12. Lower stays. Now that the mast
is set up correctly, attach the lower
stays to the forward hole in the
chainplates with the 6 mm stainless
steel shackles provided. The tension
on these stays can be varied, but for
normal sailing or cruising, they
should be done up so that they are
j
ust tight then backed off three turns.
13. At this point check that the
horizontal angle of the spreaders is
correct. lf they are not locked onto the
stay by some method, they could drop
below their correct position especially
when the mast is being raised.
The correct position is tilted upwards
at the stay as shown.
When the correct position is
obtained the spreaders should be
locked permanently onto the stays
by bending the V ends of the
spreader together. Once this is done,
the end of the spreader should be
taped to prevent wear on the sails.
14. Lay out mainsail, and thread the
boom onto the foot of the sail using
the track opening at the front of the
boom.
15. Attach the sail to the gooseneck
by screwing in pin supplied. (Fig. 12)
21 22

Rigging Instructions Cont. Rigging Instructions Cont.
16. lnsert the four battens into the
sail, making sure that the battens
seat all the way into the batten
pocket. Note: the top batten should
be tight enough to take the wrinkles
out of the sail. lf it is pulled firm
against the cloth it will be correct. Be
sure to tie a reef knot.
17. Tie mainsail outhaul line to the
outer saddle on the boom and thread
it through the outer end of the sail,
back through the cheek block on the
side of the boom and back to the
clam cleat half way down the boom
and tie a figure 8 knot in the end of
the line. (Fig. 13)
18. Similarly thread the reefing line
from the inner saddle on the boom
through the eye of the leech of the
sail and through the forward cheek
block then to the clam cleat at the
forward end of the boom. We
recommend that the reefing line
should be in position all the time to
allow instant reefing when required.
(Fig. 14)
20. Attach the mainsheet assembly
to the block hanger on the boom
and attach to traveller by using snap
shackles on lower block. Note: This
snap shackle allows the mainsheet
assembly to be removed when at
anchor to allow a clear area through
the cockpit. (Figs. 15 & 16)
21. Place the gooseneck on to the
mast track with the boom. (Fig. 12)
22. Feed the mainsail slides into the
mast track making sure none are
twisted. When all are in, place the
pin in bottom of track to prevent
slides from falling out. (Figs. 17 & 18)
FIG18
23 24

Rigging Instructions Cont. Rigging Instructions Cont.
22. Shackle the main halyard to the
head of the mainsail, making sure
that the halyard is clear up the mast.
23. Furl and fold up the mainsail
and tie around the boom.
24. Attach boom yang to mast step.
(Fig. 19)
25. Attach one end of the main
Cunningham to the saddle on the
mast. Run the Cunningham up
through the eye in the sail and down
through the cheek block on lower
mast out through the jib fairlead eye
and aft to clam cleat on port side
cabin top. Make sure there is
enough slack to allow the main sail to
be pulled right up when required. At
this point the main sail is ready to
hoist. We recommend that sails
should be bent on i.e. rigged up,
before launching your boat.
(Fig. 20)
26. Topping Lift - The Farr 6000 is not
equipped with a main boom topping
lift as standard, but should you
require one, we suggest you use your
spinnaker halyard if you have one.
Otherwise, a line can be run through
the sheave boxes provided for the
spinnaker halyard. Note: All masts
are fitted with upper and lower
exit boxes for Spinnaker whether or
not a complete spinnaker kit is fitted.
28. Jib - attach the tack of jib to
forestay fitting with 4 mm long D
Shackle provided, and hank the sail
onto the forestay without twists.
(Fig. 21)
Attach the halyard to the head of the
j
ib and attach twin blocks to clew o
f
j
ib for sheets to run through. The jib
sheet system is a double purchase
system which eliminates the
necessity for winches. Each jib sheet
leads from the saddle on the forward
end of the track on the deck,
through the block on the clew of the
j
ib back through the lead on the
track, then back to the lead on the
forward end of the coaming.
(Fig. 22)
29. Halyards
Main - leads from the starboard
base of the mast and is cleated off
on the cleat provided on the mast.
This allows you to get good
purchase while tensioning up the
main sail.
Jib - leads from the port base of the
mast through the lead on the deck
then back through the cleat on the
port cabin top aft.
Spinnaker - lf a spinnaker is fitted,
we recommend the spinnaker
halyard be lead through the
starboard block at the base of the
mast (mast step) and the main
halyard be changed to the other
spare exit box immediately above.
Then lead the spinnaker halyard aft
through the lead on the starboard
deck through the cleat on starboard
cabin top aft.
FIG 22
25 26

Rigging Instructions Cont. Rigging Instructions Cont.
29. Reefing – The slab reefing
system is simple and efficient. To
reduce sail, carry out the following
procedure:
a. Ease the boom yang and sheet
b. Slacken off the main halyard and
lower the mainsail until the reefing
eye on the luff of the sail can be
hooked on to the stainless steel S
hook on the gooseneck (Fig. 23)
c. Pull the slabline half way in and
cleat it
d. Retension the main halyard
e. Pull the slab line on the leech of
the mainsail tight (Fig. 24) and
cleat off
– Don't be afraid to reef – practice in
calm weather.
30. Keel – The keel is aerofoiled in
shape and is made out of cast iron. lt
is surfaced with Epiglass Neoseal (a
rubberised anti-corrosive paint). lt is
pivoted at the forward end and is
raised and lowered by a self
sustaining winch, operated from the
cockpit. The wire leads from the
bottom aft end of the keel through a
fitting fastened to the top of the case,
then to the winch drum. The keel is
also fitted with a locking line which
leads through the same fitting on the
top of the case then along to the top
of the plate. This line is tensioned
with shock cord so that it is always
held tight. Unless it is necessary to
positively lock the plate in a
downward position, the locking line
can be ignored,
otherwise it can be fastened around keel in desired position.
the cleat under the deck, to lock the
IMPORTANT
a. Remember to unlock the keel
before lifting it up on the winch.
b. Do not overwind winch. We
suggest you mark the wire at full
up position.
c. When trailering long distances,
especially on bumpy roads take
the tension off keel wire, so that
the weight of the keel is resting
on the trailer.
31. Rudder – The sophisticated
rudder assembly is designed to
make raising and lowering as simple
as possible. The rudder includes the
following features:
a. Aluminium stock
b. Fibreglass blade
c. Lock down line with cleat
d. Lift up line with cleat
e. Toggle pin to clamp stock and
serve as a safeguard when trailing
with the rudder in position
f. Mahogany lift up tiller
g. Tiller extension
ln most circumstances when
trailering the rudder can be left on
the boat in its' UP position. When
travelling, it is important to tie the
lifting line securely and to fasten the
clamp on the stock securely and
secure the tiller on the mast support.
When sailing, it is important that the
rudder blade be pulled right down
and the locking line cleated securely.
Once the blade is down, fasten the
toggle clamp. Before launching tie
the pin down.
27 28

Nautical
Terms
Rigging Instructions Cont.
32. Pop Top – When erecting the
Pop-Top, lift the aft end first, slide
the stoppers into position (Fig. 28),
then lift the forward end and lock
with stoppers.
When lowering, reverse the
procedure (i.e. forward end down
first) and keep fingers clear. Always
secure the pop top down when
sailing.
Abeam:
Aft:
Beam:
Bilge:
Bow:
Clew (of sail)
Gunwale:
Hatch:
Head:
Head (of sail)
Helm:
Keel:
Lee:
Port:
Starboard:
Stern:
Transom:
Tack (of sail)
90 degrees from dead ahead on either side.
At the rear or nearest the stern
The width of the hull
The lowest portion inside a boat
The forward section of the boat
After corner
Where side of hull and deck meet
Opening for access, such as forward hatch
Toilet or toilet room
Top of sail
Tiller or steering wheel
The lowest external portion of the boat
Side away from wind To the left or
left side of the boat
(when facing forward)
To the right or right side of the boat
(when facing forward)
To the rear of the boat
The vertical part of the stern
Forward Corner
Useful references:-
Sailing for beginners - Jeff Toghill
Coastal Cruising Handbook - Royal Akarana Yacht
Club NZYF Handbook
NZ Sea Spray Annual (launching ramps etc.)
IYRU Rule Book
29 30