folbot GREENLAND II User manual

GREENLAND II
OWNER’S GUIDE
www.folbot.com

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FOLBOT OWNER’S TIPS
ADDING YEARS TO YOUR FOLBOT’S LIFE
1. As you become familiar with the assembly of the boat, pieces will fall into place naturally. Allow plenty
of time for the first assembly and enjoy the process. Avoid forcing any parts as you are learning.
2. Should you experience any difficulty in assembly, please check with us at the factory: 800/533-5099,
8:30-4:30 Eastern Time, M-F.
3. If using the boat extensively in salt water, there are several things you can do ahead of time to
eliminate maintenance later: sliding parts that are shock-corded together should be sprayed occasionally
with silicone spray. After use in salt water, disassemble the boat, rinse all parts with fresh water, allow to
dry, and reapply silicone. This will prevent oxidation and sticking of these parts.
4. Sand should always be rinsed out of the boat thoroughly when disassembled. Sand can hinder the
operation of the lower shock-corded joints and the tensioning mechanism, so care should be taken to
ensure that they are rinsed free of sand after use.
5. While the fabrics used on both the deck and hull are very ultra-violet resistant, protect the boat from
sunlight when not in use.
USING YOUR FOLBOT
1. Take a little extra care when launching your kayak. Though the hull fabric is tough, you should not drag
a boat from the shore into the water. Launch from a bank or dock if possible. If not, carry the kayak into
the water until the bottom clears and it floats. Use this procedure when landing also. It will add years to
the life of the hull.
2. You may step on the tubing or the fabric when entering the boat. Stay low and grasp the washboards as
soon as possible and lower yourself into the seat. This is a learned skill and you will become very adept
at this with a little practice.
3. It is possible to enter the boat from the water, but this requires some practice. A wet entry should be
practiced in shallow water to determine your ability to re-enter the boat. Entering the boat from the bow
or stern requires a bit of dexterity as you slide across the bow or stern deck into the cockpit. Using a
paddle float properly will enable you to enter the boat more easily, but lessons in this procedure should
be taken.
4. The proper paddle length for a kayak is determined more by the beam (width) of the boat than any
other factor.
5. The basic kayak paddle stroke is unlike that used to paddle a canoe. Rather than reaching straight
down into the water, the kayak paddle enters the water at about a 45-degree angle. Rather than pulling
the blade through the water with the arm closest to the submerged paddle blade, that arm remains
straight and stiff and becomes a fulcrum while the other arm pushes, much like a boxer’s motion.
6. A gradual turn can be accomplished by paddling only on one side of the kayak. A sharper turn is made
trailing the paddle at an angle, just like a rudder. An abrupt turn can be achieved paddling forward on
one side of the kayak and then quickly backwards on the opposite side.
7. If the boat has capsized, it is best to stay with it and swim it to shore before attempting to empty it of
water. Emptying the boat should be done by gently rocking it back and forth toward a position where the
boat is on its side, and then rolling it completely upside down. If it is impossible to get a capsized boat to
shore, it can be bailed with an open container or bilge pump, but this is quite time consuming. Safety
bladders or float storage bags are a must. The larger the safety bladders, the better, as less water can
enter the boat.

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8. A foot rudder is best used when paddling in large, open bodies of water, particularly when it is
necessary to counter a cross wind or cross tide. You can usually make a sharper turn with the paddles
than with a rudder.
9. Avoid towing the FOLBOT behind a powerboat. Because of its light weight when empty, it is quite easy
to flip the boat at high speeds. In an emergency, tow it at an idle, and leave some small amount of weight
in the boat.
AFTERCARE OF YOUR FOLBOT
1. It is very important that your boat be completely dry when it is packed away for longer than a day
or two. As soon as convenient after using, allow all parts to dry thoroughly before storing in the bag.
2. The hull fabric is easily repaired using a service kit available from our factory. Detailed instructions
are included with the service kit. Generally a small nick in the bottom layer of the hull that does not
penetrate the fabric is best ignored or touched up with clear Aqua Seal or Shoe Goo, a material sold at
sporting good stores for mending tennis shoes. Any hole that goes completely through the fabric should
be patched following the instructions included with the service kit.
3. The hull and deck can be cleaned with soap and warm water as needed.
4. The deck is made of urethane-coated polyester and is quite UV resistant. The deck fabric can be
patched from the underside if it is ever damaged using a fabric patch and contact adhesive.
MISCELLANEOUS TIPS
1. Car-topping a setup boat is fine, but the boat should be secured across the body of the boat rather than
from the bow and stern. A light line can be run from the bow of the boat to the front bumper or other
attachment point on the front of the vehicle to prevent weathervaning. Use V-shaped foam pads under
the hull of the Cooper or kayak cradles that are available for most racks.
2. When paddling in very cold water, your legs will stay warmer if a thin foam pad, such as used under
sleeping bags, is spread out on the bottom of the boat.
3. When carrying your boat as baggage aboard a commercial airline, no additional protection should be
needed. A small lock should be used to lock the zipper pulls or at least the zipper pulls tied together.
4. While we are happy to make repairs or solve problems you may have with your boat, items can often
be cured by the owner without having to send the boat back to us. Call us before shipping a boat back to
be sure we don’t have an easy solution.
Remember: we are here to help if you need us!
Call 800/533-5099, 8:30-4:30 M-F Eastern Time, or visit www.FOLBOT.com

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ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
Before assembling your Folbot, take time to familiarize yourself with all the parts and the terminology
used. You should find the following contents when you unpack your boat for the first time.
SHORT BAG CONTENTS (pictured above, listed left to right)
2 seats — Each made of closed-cell mini-foam.
2 safety bladders
7 crossframes — Anodized black and numbered 1 through 7.
1 cockpit nose — Made of black urethane and temporarily attached to crossframe #2.
1 boatskin — Note how the boatskin is folded so you can put it back correctly when disassembled.
LONG BAG CONTENTS (pictured right, listed left to right)
1 rear washboard — About 16” long, shaped in a shallow “V” with
a black flap attached.
2 keel ends, including lower longerons and deck struts —
Identified by the words bow and stern. There are two sets of
longerons (two parts each, shockcorded together) and a deck
strut attached to each black keel end.
2 sections of bottom keel — The bow (front) section has the
numbers 1 through 4 printed on the black nylon plates. The stern
(back) section has the numbers 5 through 7.
4 sections of side frame — Identified by the words right bow,
right stern, left bow and left stern.
4 washboard pieces — Each piece (two left, two right) has black
knobs and seat support straps attached.

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The general assembly procedure is to partially complete both halves of the frame, which are
then inserted into each end of the skin. The frames are then joined together and expanded until
the skin is tight lengthwise. The remaining crossframes are installed, followed by the
washboard set and finally the seats. Please read all the instructions, and assemble slowly and
carefully the first time, paying close attention to all details.
It may take an hour to assemble the Greenland for the first time, but with a little practice you
should be able to put the boat together in under 30 minutes. Enjoy!
bow keel end bow deck strut bottom keel frame side frame stern deck strut
lower longeron crossframe washboard rear washboard stern keel end
1. Begin by checking the contents of the bag to be sure all parts are present.
2. Locate both the bow keel end and the bottom keel section marked with the word bow and the numbers
1 through 4. At the end of this bottom keel section is a slotted aluminum plate. Slide the black keel end
into the slotted aluminum plate. Next, assemble the lower longerons.
3. Fold the deck strut back so it is out of the way.
Locate the two side frames marked right bow and
left bow. Beginning with one side frame, engage
the metal keyhole bracket onto the two screws
mounted in the keel end (see photo at left). Do not
tighten these screws! Repeat with the other side.
Tip: You may find it easier to attach the side
frames while they are folded.

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4. Locate crossframe 2 and temporarily remove the black knob and cockpit nose. Install at the black
nylon plate marked #2, and position it so that the aluminum U-bracket at the top of the frame faces
toward the bow (front) of the boat. The #2 sticker on the crossframe should face toward the cockpit.
Begin by inserting the crossframe into one of the side frames (see photo, below left). The metal fixture
must completely engage in the keyhole slots of the black plate. Adjust the crossframe so that the tab on
the black plate clicks up and holds the frame securely in place. Repeat at the other side frame.
5. Now install the cross frame into the bottom frame (see photo, above right). Don’t be afraid to use some
force to ensure the crossframe is properly engaged! You may find it helpful to grasp the black plate from
behind, using its flexibility to persuade the crossframe into place.
6. Locate crossframe 1. Insert it into the sideframes at the #1 location near the bow (front) of the boat.
Notice this frame doesn’t attach to the bottom frame. As with all crossframes, it must be oriented so that
the metal brackets engage the keyhole plates at the proper angle (see photo, above right). If not, simply
reverse the frame. The #1 sticker should face the cockpit.
7. Now click the lower longerons into the crescent-shaped clips attached to each crossframe.
8. Finally, insert the free end of the deck strut into the U-bracket of the crossframe. The button at the end
of the deck strut must engage in the hole of the bracket (see photo, above left).

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9. Assemble the stern in the same way you assembled the bow, using the stern keel end, the bottom stern
keel section marked with numbers 5 through 7, and the two side frames marked right (starboard) stern
and left (port) stern. Complete the assembly with crossframes 6 and 7.
At this point you should have both halves of the frame assembled. Well done! Now it is time to insert the
frames into the boatskin.
10. Unfold the boatskin and open it up as much as possible with the hull side down. Note that the bow
(front) end of the skin has a FOLBOT patch sewn in place. Open the Velcro flaps and unzip both zippers.
11. Now insert each frame half into the skin. There are aluminum tracks on the inside of the skin that
align with each keel end of the frame. Move the frame into the skin as far as possible, keeping everything
on center. Make sure all the aluminum tubing ends are tucked into the skin, and that the keel ends are
properly set in the aluminum tracks. Now zip up the front deck to see if the zipper is aligned with the
deck strut. If not, unzip and reposition the frame until centered and zip up the deck. Repeat with rear
deck zipper.
12. You should now have three frame latches in the
middle of the boat not yet engaged, and two sets of
lower longerons not yet connected.
Assemble the bottom keel latch by inserting the
smaller stern end into the larger bow end of the latch
(see photo at left). Slowly press it down toward the
bottom of the boat to stretch out the boatskin. Don’t
worry—nothing will break! The latch may pop back up
when you relieve it, but this is okay for now.
Check that the keel ends are within the aluminum
tracks on the inside of the skin by feeling the
alignment on the outside of the skin.
13. The side frame latches are joined in the same way
as the bottom keel latch. You may need to push
downward slightly as you close each latch. Avoid
trapping the clear sponson tubes in the latches, but
don’t worry if this happens—you can always free them
afterward.
All latches should now be closed and the boatskin
tight.
14. Now join the two sets of lower longerons. For each
set, slide the external tube out of the way (you may
need to disengage the snap button first), and line up
the two ends of the longeron. The tubing must be
straight so that you can now slide the external tube
back over the joint. Engage the snap button by
twisting the pieces until the button pops up into the
hole provided (see photo at left).
Don’t worry if you cannot engage the button in the hole, as this is not mandatory. Just make sure the
sliding tube is positioned directly over the point where the two longerons meet. The tube will not move
when the longeron is in its natural curved position.
15. To complete the frame, install crossframes 3, 4 and 5 into position. Remember, crossframe 3 must be
oriented properly so that its metal bracket engages the keyhole plates at the proper angle. If the angle is
not correct, simply reverse the crossframe. Sticker #3 and #5 must face the cockpit, and sticker #4 faces
the stern (back).
Tip: You may find it easier to attach the crossframe to the sideframe from the opposite side of the boat.

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16. Now locate the side washboard pieces. Assemble each left and right side by sliding the rear piece
(with the black corner attached) into the front piece. You will need to remove one of the black knobs and
T-bolts first to assemble the front washboard to the back (see photo, below left). When assembled
correctly, each side should have all the black knobs facing out while the groove along its entire length is
facing down. Note: the front of the washboards are identified by the white hole plugs, which face the bow
of the boat.
17. To install each washboard, insert the rope end into the open end of the grooved channel at the bottom
of the washboard (see photo, above right). Push the washboard along the roped edge toward the front of
the cockpit until the brass T-bolts line up with the brackets on the crossframes.
18. Locate the rear washboard, which is shaped like a shallow “V”. Place it within the black corners of the
side washboards, so that the rubber flap trails away from the cockpit and toward the back of the boat.
19. When all washboards are in place, engage the
T-bolts into the crossframes brackets by pushing
them through the slots and turning them 90
degrees so they don’t pull back through (see photo
at left). You may find it helpful to unscrew the
black knobs a little, but don’t remove them
completely—and don’t tighten the black knobs all
the way just yet.
20. Locate the cockpit nose removed in step #4.
Re-attach it by squeezing the ends of the side
washboards together and dropping the nose over
the threaded stud sticking out from the top of
crossframe 2. Secure it in place by replacing the
black knob and tightening it.
21. Complete the washboard assembly by tucking the loose rope ends under the cockpit nose, and
tightening the black knobs on the washboard T-bolts. They need not be tightened all the way—a gap can
remain between the washboard frame and the crossframe bracket.
22. Almost done! Inflate the sponsons by blowing into the clear tubes. This should take about eight
breaths each, and you should hear the frame tightening as you blow. Hold the tube with one hand while
you inflate so that you can fold it over and twist the valve closed without letting any air escape.
23. Locate the seats and place them in the cockpit at crossframes 4 and 6, with the Velcro on the bottom
of each seat mating with the Velcro on the bottom keel. Insert the washboard straps through the loops on
the back of the seats, and secure by snapping the clasp together.
24. Finally, hook the deck bungees across the deck. The shorter lengths go straight across, the longer
ones diagonally. The ends with the closed clips should remain connected, while those with the open clips
can be taken off and on as needed. Inflate the safety bladders and place one each in the bow and stern of
the boat, pushing them through the crossframes as far as they will go.

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Disassembly of your Folbot is the exact reverse of this procedure, but here are some helpful tips:
To disengage the crossframes from the black nylon plates, first depress the center tab to allow the metal
fixture to move into the free position.
Fold the boatskin up as follows:
1. Tuck the deck fabric into the hull fabric.
2. Fold the keel ends in toward the cockpit so the black urethane castings almost touch at the
center of the skin.
3. Make the next folds the same way you did the previous folds, so the castings are hidden.
4. Finally fold the skin in half and place it in the short bag.
Always make sure the fabric is dry before folding it up! If this is not possible, reassemble the boat at the
next available opportunity and allow it to dry out.
When packing your Folbot back into its bag, generally speaking the crossframes are stacked so that the
smaller frames are placed within the larger frames. Some trial and error may be needed to determine the
best fit and nesting arrangements.
It should be noted that you can get more in the bag than it first appears. Don’t give up until you’ve tried to
zip up—you will be surprised at what can fit in!
Remember: we are here to help if you need us!
Call 800/533-5099, 8:30-4:30 M-F Eastern Time, or visit
www.FOLBOT.com

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NOTES

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