GARDEN MASTER GM3023 User manual

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for an installer near you
THIS SHED
WAS PROUDLY
PACKED BY:
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this code for any
correspondence back
to the supplier
GM3023
GABLE ROOF SHED
3030mm wide x 2280mm deep x 1830mm - 2025mm high
25
YEAR
WARRANTY 1974
EST.EST.
BEFORE YOU BEGIN:
To avoid any confusion with your new shed
build, we strongly suggest that you unpack
and identify each part before you begin to
put it together.
ASSEMBLY
INSTRUCTIONS
YOU SHOULD HAVE TWO PACKAGES:
• 1 cardboard package
• 1 channel pack
TOOLS SUPPLIED:
• 1 riveter
• 3.3mm double ended drillbit
TOOLS REQUIRED:
• Battery or electric drill (drill bits supplied)
• Tape measure
• Ladder
• Non-slip gloves, good shoes and goggles
• Tin snips
• A set of helping hands
Some parts have sharp edges and should be handled
very carefully. We recommend the use of protective
gloves and footwear when assembling.
DO NOT attempt to erect this shed in windy weather.
All dimensions are approximate.
WATCH OUR
SHED ASSEMBLY
VIDEO GUIDE
HERE

2If you need advice, call us FREE on 0800 807 433 or email us at [e-mail]
If you choose to vary from these instructions your warranty will be impaired.
!
COMPONENTS CHECKLIST
Please check the parts carefully and advise immediately if any are damaged or missing.
ASSEMBLY OVERVIEW
These instructions are designed to guide you though the process
of building your new garden shed. It is a simple process of joining
sheets together before adding top and bottom channels to form a
shed panel. These panels are then joined together to make your shed.
When fitting the channels to the sheets, the high side of the channel should go on the inside of the sheet, ensuring that
any water that collects in the bottom channel will run over the lower side and run away rather than into the shed.
Rivets are fitted by drilling through outside of the channel into the ribs of the sheet, usually at every second rib. It is
also important to fit at least one rivet per sheet from the inside of
the channel into the pan of the sheet, close to a rib. Extra rivets
should be fitted on the inside of the channel into the pan of the
sheets in high wind areas.
It is critical that you remove the swarf (the metal filings created
when drilling) from the panels and channels as you assemble
them as these will rust quickly and could cause corrosion issues
with your shed!
RIBINSIDE
PANOUTSIDE
A
4 x 1830mm sheets for back
1 x 1830mm sheets for front
B
8 x 1200mm sheets for roof
C
4 x sloping sheets &
2 x gable cut sheets for the
centre of the end walls
D
1 x 740mm wide sheet with
door jamb attached
E
Door pre-hinged to 740mm
sheet with door jamb
F
4 x 3000mm channels
with ends cut for front and
back walls
G
4 x 3000mm channels
for roof
H
2 x 2255mm channels for
bottom & 2 x 2290mm
channels for top of end walls
I
4 x 1200mm ‘L’s for flashing
the roof to the side walls
2 x 793mm door spacers
J
1 x pack of rivets, 1 x riveter, 1 x drill bit. and a padbolt pack with wide
flanged rivets for fixing the padbolt on to the door and door jamb.
M
2 x small gable plates
for the outer & 2 x small
for the inner.
L
2 x ‘Z’ door braces
N
Wooden block
1 x 3025mm ridge beam
1 x 2975mm roof support slat
K

3
If you need advice, call us FREE on 0800 807 433 or email us at [e-mail]
If you choose to vary from these instructions your warranty will be impaired.
!
The cutouts go to the inside of the panel to
allow easy fitment of the end walls
on assembly. Note top and bottom
channels have different cutouts!
CHANNELS WITH CUTOUTS
TOP
CHANNEL
YOU WILL NEED:
4 x 1830mm sheets for the back
2 x 3000mm channels
A
F
STEP 1: BACK WALL
1. Join 4
A
sheets together with 2 rivets through the overlapping
ribs making sure the ends of the sheets are flush.
2. Cap sheeting with
F
channels putting the cutouts top
and bottom. This will finish 10-15mm shorter than the sheet.
3. Rivet the channels through the end ribs and
every 2nd rib between.
4. Make sure you put at least 1 rivet
per sheet up through the underside
of the channel into the pan
of the sheet.
YOU WILL NEED:
8 x 1200mm sheets
4 x 3000mm channels
4 x 1200mm ‘L’s
1 x 3025mm ridge beam
B
G
I
K
STEP 2: ROOF
1. Join 4
B
1600mm sheets together, same as the back.
2. Cap sheeting with
G
3000mm channels.
3. Rivet the channels at every second rib but not the corners at this stage.
The U channel will finish 10mm shorter than the sheeting.
4. Place the short flange of
I
‘L’ on top of the rib at 1 end. Make sure ends are flush
with sheeting and put 1 rivet in the centre to hold the ‘L’. Rivet the corners through
the channels and 1 more between the corner and
the centre rivet. Perform the same at the other
end and next roof panel.
5. Rivet
K
ridge beam to one roof
panel and rivet through
internal flange and
thru the ends
of the ridge
beam into
the ‘L’.
Put extra rivets in for high wind areas,
particularly on the underside.
GARDEN MASTER TIP
F
A
F
I
G
B
I
G
K
BOTTOM
CHANNEL
Simply grab the wooden
block supplied with your
shed and fold each pan on
the roof panel to 45 degrees
Each pan that will connect
into the ridge cap will need to
be folded up to prevent any
water coming in through the
center of the ridge beam.
WATCH OUR
SHED ASSEMBLY
VIDEO GUIDE
HERE
WATCH OUR
SHED ASSEMBLY
VIDEO GUIDE
HERE

4If you need advice, call us FREE on 0800 807 433 or email us at [e-mail]
If you choose to vary from these instructions your warranty will be impaired.
!
YOU WILL NEED:
2 x ‘Z’ Door braces
Rivets as supplied
STEP 4: DOOR BRACES
1. The door braces can be riveted now or after you have
assembled your shed.
2. Tuck one end of the ‘Z’ between the bottom channel of the
inside of the door and the sheet. Do the same at the top,
overlapping in the centre behind the padbolt.
If you have a locking ‘T’ handle you will have to run the
‘Z’s the opposite way to the diagram.
3. Rivet the ‘Z’s at the ends, and in the centre of the channel
it is tucked under, and through the overlap in the centre.
Two or three more rivets will be required through the door
sheeting into the ‘Z’, but they will need to be riveted through
from the outside of the door for a neater appearance.
4. You may need to cut or bend the flange at the bottom
and the top of the ‘Z’ if it catches on the door jamb when
opening or closing (diagram 5).
5
DIAGRAM 5
before
after
ABOVE
Z door braces in position on
the inside of door sheet
STEP 3: END WALLS
1. Join 3
C
sheets together to create a gable end wall as shown.
2. Cap the bottom of the sheets with an
H
2255mm channel.
3. Cap the angled top of the sheets with a 2290mm channel. With tin snips make
a cut on the top and bottom of the channel at 1145mm (center) and then fold
channel to follow the angle of the sheeting.
4. Slip the flat
L
gable plate between the channel and the sheeting on the
outside of the wall. Take the other
L
gable plate with a 90 degree
fold in it and slip it between the channel and the sheeting on the
underside of the wall. (this will be used to support the gable
roof strengthening section)
5. Rivet the channels at every 2nd rib and through
the gable plate into the sheeting ribs.
6. Drill and rivet 3 rivets to the underside
of the wall through the channel and
into the wall pan of the sheet.
7. Perform the same again
for the other end.
YOU WILL NEED:
4x Sloping sheets & 2x Gable cut sheets for
the centre of the end walls
2 x 2255mm channels for bottom &
2 x 2290mm channels for top of end walls
2 x small gable plates for the outer
& 2 x small for the inner
C
H
L
Channels will end 15-20mm short at tops
of end walls and 10-15mm at bottoms.
door with padbolt Locking T handle
WATCH OUR
SHED ASSEMBLY
VIDEO GUIDE
HERE
M
N
C
H
H
C
C
L
L

5
If you need advice, call us FREE on 0800 807 433 or email us at [e-mail]
If you choose to vary from these instructions your warranty will be impaired.
!
STEP 5: FRONT WALL
1. Join
A
1830mm sheet to (D) or (E) 740mm sheet depending on which way door
is to swing. Slip
D
740mm wide sheet with door jamb under door. Use
J
door
spacer to determine the correct opening size by placing on the bottom flange of
the door jambs. Then rivet
F
channels to tops and bottoms of sheeting.
2. Outside: Rivet channel at corners and every 2nd rib between and through door
jambs and spacer.
3. Inside: One rivet per sheet at each end up through channel underside and
through door jambs and spacer.
Rivet padbolt to the outside of door using wide flange rivets supplied.
(We recommend you use an 8mm shackle diameter padlock on these pad bolts,
anything smaller may create security issues.)
YOU WILL NEED:
1 x 1830mm sheet
1 x 740mm wide sheet with door
jamb attached
Door pre-hinged to 740mm sheet
with door jamb
2 x 3000mm channels
2 x 793mm door spacers
A
D
E
F
J
A Drill and rivet here.
B Drill through to the underside.
Rivet top and underside.
A B
D
E
J
F
J
F
Channels will come
short of the ends of the
sheeting by 10-15mm on
all panels.
A
To hinge the door on the
opposite side, put the top
channel on the bottom and
the bottom on the top.
Put the padbolt on the
door before erecting the
panels. It will stop the door
swinging around!
GARDEN MASTER TIP
The higher side of the channel
goes to the inside of the shed.
It is very important to include
the rivets on the underside
of all the channels as they
are structural.
FITTING CHANNELS
INSIDE
OUTSIDE
The cutouts go to the inside of
the panel to allow easy fitment
of the end walls on assembly.
Note top and bottom channels
have different cutouts!
CHANNELS WITH CUTOUTS
TOP
CHANNEL
BOTTOM
CHANNEL
WATCH OUR
SHED ASSEMBLY
VIDEO GUIDE
HERE
SPACERCHANNEL
Fix through the top and bottom of
the channels into the door jamb
and spacer. The door jamb goes on
inside of the channel.

6If you need advice, call us FREE on 0800 807 433 or email us at [e-mail]
If you choose to vary from these instructions your warranty will be impaired.
!
DIAGRAM 6
DIAGRAM 7
DIAGRAM 8
L FLASHING
Rivet through the side of
the ‘L’ flashing to secure the
roof to the side of the shed.
DIAGRAM 9
Use the handle end of a hammer in the
inside of the corner, but beware of drilling
holes on the end of your hammer!
GARDEN MASTER TIP
STEP 6: INSTALLATION
WALL ASSEMBLY
Stand up the back wall and as your helping hand is holding it up, bring the left end wall
in to meet it at the left corner (diagram 6) overlapping the corners (diagram 7).
Drill and rivet at approximately 50mm down from the top and up from the bottom,
drilling and riveting from the outside.
Bring the right end wall into the right back corner and perform the same again, checking
to make sure the walls are sitting flat at the bottom. Bring the front wall into place and
join the front corners to the end walls, same as the back (diagram 8).
Finish joining the corners by riveting at approximately 200-300mm apart. You will find
it easier to drill these corners if they are supported on the inside (see tip).
FIXING THE ROOF
The gable roof comes in 2 peices. With a person at each end of the first roof panel (it
will have the Ridge Beam attached to it as described in step 2). Lift the roof panel over
the top of your upright walls and lower down on top. Once the roof is sitting on top of
the walls then make sure the center of the ridge beam is centered with the center of the
gable end walls. Once the first half of the roof has been placed down, drill and rivet
through the L Flashing at each end of the roof. Drill and rivet 150mm from the front or
back wall as shown in diagram 9. If it is difficult to get the same overhang at each end,
this will probably be caused by an unlevel site or walls that are not square. Adjust and
level the shed accordingly.
With the first roof half in place, install the ridge support slat into place. Simply lift the
Ridge Beam slightly to allow you to sit the strengthening slat onto the gable end plates.
Lower the roof down to allow the slat to locate into the center of the ridge beam. Once
this has been located you can now install the other half of the roof panels. Simply slide
the other roof panel up the gable wall and feed it into the ridge beam.
Once you have located the roof panel you can then finish off riveting the ends
of the roof L’s at 300mm apart, then rivet in through the ridge cap ends and into
the L flashings.
Using the ladder and the tape measure, rivet down through
the top of the roof, through the pan into the top channel
of the front and the back walls (10mm more than the
overhang). Rivet beside every second rib. You will not need
to worry about these rivets leaking as any water seeping
through will end up on the outside of the walls.
Make sure to clean ALL swarf from your roof once you
have finished installing the roof panels. left over swarf
will cause surface rust spots on your shed.
BUILDING YOUR SHED
The basic task is to join the sheets together
to form your panels, then rivet the channels
to the top and bottom of these panels. They
will then join together to form your shed
(diagram 6, 7, 8 and 9).

7
If you need advice, call us FREE on 0800 807 433 or email us at [e-mail]
If you choose to vary from these instructions your warranty will be impaired.
!
KITSET WOODEN FLOORS
Every shed must have a floor. These are available from your local shed dealer.
For more information visit www.gardenmastersheds.co.nz
FLAT FLOOR CLAMPS
For existing concrete only.
Water can seep underneath.
Available from your local
shed dealer.
BOXING DIAGRAM 20MM - 25MM
(1 ' X 1 ')
INTERNAL DIMENSIONS
APPROX 25MM RECESS
AROUND THE OUTSIDE 25MM
2985MM
INTERNAL
MEASUREMENT
2235MM
RUNNER
SHED
FLOOR BOARD
SHED
RECESS
20MM - 25MM
8MM BOLT SET INTO CONCRETE
100MM
25MM
25MM
APPROX
20MM - 25MM
2985MM X 2235MM
INTERNAL DIMENSIONS FOR THE GM3023
STEP 7: COMPLETE YOUR SHED
RECESSED CONCRETE FLOOR PLAN FOR SPECIALLY
POURED CONCRETE FLOORS: SPECIFICATIONS
Every shed must have some type of foundation between it and the ground. You can pour a concrete floor and use recessed floor
clamps, use an existing concrete base with flat floor clamps or purchase a kitset wooden floor from your local shed dealer.
RECESSED FLOOR CLAMPS
For poured floors with a
recess around the perimeter.
Available from your local
shed dealer.
For extra protection in high wind areas
put additional nails through the wall
channels into the floor boards and also
peg the shed bearers to the ground.
GARDEN MASTER TIP

WE’D REALLY LIKE YOUR FEEDBACK!
Customer satisfaction is our top priority and we are always on the look out for ways to do better.
Please email your comments to [e-mail]
Free gift
To receive your free gift, simply include your contact details when you send in your feedback, or you can send us a photo of
your finished shed with your details.
To help you we have listed some questions that you may like to answer:
There is no need to type every question, only the question number and your answers
are necessary for us.
1. How did you find out about us?
2. If you found us through our website, was it easy to navigate?
3. Did you find the assembly instructions and the online assembly videos easy to follow?
4. Where did you purchase your shed?
5. Was the sales person helpful and courteous?
6. What did you like best about your garden shed purchase?
7. Are there any parts of our service that you think we could improve upon?
Thanks for your help!
GARDEN MASTER SHED OPTIONAL EXTRAS
IMPORTANT: FIXING YOUR SHED
TO ITS FOUNDATIONS
If your foundations are unlevel or bowed, you will have problems with your padbolt and door
levels. This can be fixed by slipping a spade under either door jamb and lifting. You will soon
get a feel for which side needs propping up.
• Do not attempt to assemble panels in rain or windy conditions.
• Make sure your foundations are squared and level before erecting panels.
• It is easier to remove all swarf (filings) before you stand your walls up.
• Complete all panels before erecting your shed.
• Keep a firm grip on panels when handling. If they slip they will cause damage.
• Always wear non-slip gloves, protective footwear and eyewear.
It is essential that every shed has a floor, but the only way to make sure your shed is there to
stay on windy sites is with a recessed concrete floor. Phone [phone] for free advice or
see page 7 for more details.
1. SHELVING
(GMSH)
Hangs from the wall to allow
maximum use of valuable floor
space. Includes 3 x ply shelves,
1200mm x 300mm.
2. BRUNS TOOL RACKS
(SB6.10A OR SB4.05A)
Choose from the 1m rail and 6
tool grips or the 0.5m rail with 4
tool grips (or both) to help keep
your tools off the floor.
3. SHED CORNER
PROTECTORS (GMSCP)
Protect your shed from knocks
by mowers, bikes etc. with a set
of corner protectors. Folded
from 0.9mm high tensile steel
these clip on corners look great
and help to protect your shed!
4. HOOKS
(GMTH)
Perfect for hanging ropes, leads
hoses on a single hooh or use
a pair to hold up a ladder or
weedeater etc. These handy
hooks come in a set of four and
fit over the front or back walls
under the ribs in the roof sheets