GARDEN MASTER GM3818 User manual

If you feel confident that you do not need to read through these instructions, see page 2…. January 09
Feedback….
As we are forever trying to make sure you are our happiest customer, we are always on the look-
out for ways in which we could do better. Please fax us on 06 878 5758 or send us an email to
[e-mail] with your thoughts. To help you we have listed a few aspects
that we would like you to comment on. You do not have to include your details, but if you do we
will forward you a free gift.
1.Finding out about our range of garden sheds and the various options we offer….
2.The store and the sales person that you purchased from….
3.The delivery and the overall dealings for the purchase of your shed….
4.The assembly of your shed and clarity of instructions….
5.Did the shed fit your needs? What will you order differently next time?
Well done you have finished the panels….
Points to note as you construct your shed:
Do not attempt to assemble panels in windy conditions
Make sure your foundations are squared and level before erecting panels.
It is easier to remove all swarf (filings) before you stand your walls up
Complete all panels before erecting your shed.
Keep a firm grip on panels when handling. If they slip they will cause damage.
Always wear non slip gloves protective footwear and eyewear.
5: Now to join your corners and put your roof on….
1st: Stand up the back wall and as your helping hand is holding it up bring the Left end wall into meet it
at the left corner overlapping the corners as Fig 1. Drill & Fix at approx 100mm down from the top
and up from the bottom drilling and fixing from the outside.
2nd: Bring the Right end wall into the right back corner and perform the same again checking to make
sure the walls are sitting flat at the bottom
3rd: Bring the front wall into place and join the front corners to the end walls same as the back.
4th: Finish joining corners by fixing at approx 300mm apart. You will find it easier to drill
these corners if they are supported on the inside. Use the handle end of a hammer
into the inside of the corner, but beware of drilling holes in the end of your hammer.
5th: With a person at each end of the roof, waft it over top of your upright walls and lower
down on top with an overhang that looks best to you. At the left end fix thru the “L”
flashing into the top channel of the left end wall. Measure the overhang at the back and
fix the right end “L” to the right end wall with the same overhang as the Left end. If the
roof is difficult to get to the same overhang at each end this will be caused by unlevel
site or walls are not square. Adjust accordingly. Fix “L”s at approx 500mm’s apart.
6th: Using your ladder and tape measure, fix down thru the top of the roof, thru the pan
into the top channel of front and back walls. (10mm more than the overhang). Fix be-
side every 2nd rib. (Fig 2). You will not need to worry about these fixings leaking as
any water seeping thru these fixings will end up on the outside of the walls.
7th: Attach padbolt to door strap and fit door braces if not already done so. Check that all
swarf is removed and most importantly….
8th: Fix your shed down to its foundations. If your foundations are unlevel or bowed, you
will have problems with your padbolt and door levels. This can be fixed by slipping a
spade under either door jamb and lifting. You will soon get a feel for which side needs propping up.
Well done!
It is utmost essential that every shed has
a floor, but the only way to make sure
your shed is there to stay on windy sites is
with a recessed concrete floor and phone
0800 80 SHED for more free advise.
If you choose to vary from these instructions your warranty will be impaired. Pg 4
Recessed floor clamps
For especially poured floors
with recess around perimeter.
Flat floor clamps
For existing concrete only.
Water can seep underneath.
Fig 1
Fig 2
If you feel confident that you do not need to read through these instructions, see page 2…. January 09
GM3818 - Sloping Roof Shed
3720mm W x 1830mm D x 1980 -1830mm H
ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
“This shed has 1 Box and 1 Channel pack ”
Quick Tips to keep in mind as I build my shed:
Try to remove swarf (drill filings) from panels as I assemble them.
My basic job is to cap the sheeting to make the panels. Drill & Fix.
All components are cut to length. Do not cut any parts unless instructed.
They are only a phone call away 0800 807 433 or email to [email protected]
Fixings thru the inside of the channels into the sheeting are just as important as the outside.
What tools will I need?
Drill and drill bits - 3.3mm (1/8th”) for shed and 5mm (3/16th”) for padbolt
Screwdriver or Riveter. (Note: all colour sheds come with rivets only)
Tape measure for roof overhang.
Ladder for fixing down thru the top of the roof.
Tin snips for a small nik on top channel of gable end walls only. (If applicable)
Non slip gloves, good shoes, goggles, a helping set of hands and no gusty winds!
My basic parts list…..(for standard sheds)
Please check parts carefully and advise immediately if any damage or loss.
5 x 1830 mm Sheets for back
5 x 1980 sheets for roof.
2 x 1980 for Front
4 x Sloping sheets and 2 x 1/2
sheets for end walls. 2 & 1/2 Left
and 2 & 1/2 Right.
1 x 740mm wide sheet with
door jamb attached
Door pre-hinged to
2nd 740mm sheet
with door jamb
4 x 1815mm channels for End walls
2 x 3745mm channels for
the Roof
4 x 3745mm channels with ends cut
for Front & Back walls
2 x 1980mm “L”s for flashing the
roof to the side walls
2 x 793mm Door
spacers
Pg 1
1 x Pack of fixings with padbolt
Screws for Zincalume sheds
Rivets for Colour sheds
2 x “Z” Door braces

If you feel confident that you do not need to read through these instructions, see page 2…. January 09
Detailed instructions with diagrams:….
Channels will come
short of ends of sheeting
by 10 - 15mm on all
panels
Basic overview of what I am trying to achieve…
“For those of us who do not like reading instructions….”
Rib
Pan
(F) Channels with
cutouts (as shown).
Note that the cutouts go to the inside of the panel to
allow easy fitment of end walls on assembly
Inside Outside
1: Front Wall
If you choose to vary from these instructions your warranty will be impaired. Pg 2
Hinge
Hinge
Spacer
Channel Door jamb on inside
Just join the sheets together and fit the channels to the top and bottom of the sheets as a
framing to make 4 walls and the roof. Follow these basic steps:….
1. Front Wall: Layout 2 x (A) 1980mm sheets, (C) sheet with door jamb attached, and (D)
door with the sheet attached beside them to your preferred configuration and join sheets. Cap
the sheets with (F) 3745 channels (2 sided cutout - Top and 1 sided cutout - bottom). Use (H)
Door spacers to make sure door fits gap OK (they sit on top of the jambs) and fix (Rivet or
screw) at every 2nd rib. Attach door spacer at each end thru door jambs and channels. 4 fix-
ings underneath into sheeting pan top and bottom. Fit padbolt.
2. Back: Join 5 (A) 1830mm Sheets together. Cap with (F) Channels and fix thru every 2nd rib
and at least 1 fixing per sheet thru the back of the channel into the pan of the sheeting. More
in high wind areas.
3. Roof: Join 5 (A) 1980mm Sheets together. Cap with (E) 3745mm Channels. Fix @ every 2nd rib. Attach (G)
1980 “L”s to ribs at each end of sheeting at corners and 500mm apart in between.
4. End walls: Join 2 & 1/2 (B) sheets together that slope the same way. Cap with (E) 1815mm channels and fix
at corners and every 2nd rib in between. 4 fixings up underneath into pan of sheeting, top and Bottom.
5. Assembly: You have now made up your panels. It’s just, Join the corners and put the roof on! Make sure
you have at least 6 fixings down each corner when you join the walls. Fix one side of the roof on thru the
(G) “L” into the top channel on one end wall approx 500mm apart. Check overhang and fix to the other end
wall. You now need to fix down thru every 2nd pan in the roof into the top channels on the front and back
walls. More in high wind areas. Please make sure that you have removed all swarf filings as the rust spots
that they produce may hinder any warranty claims.
Generally most fixings are spaced at 300mm apart
Keep fixings in the pans as close to the ribs as possible for added strength.
Ribs will always protrude to the outside of the shed.
Extra internal fixings is strongly recommended in high wind areas.
Drawings are diagrammatic and
are not necessarily to detail.
A.Join 2 x (A)1980 sheets to (D)
or (C) 740mm sheet depending
on which way door is to swing.
B.Use (H) door spacer to deter-
mine the correct opening size
by placing on the bottom flange
of the door jambs. Then fit (F)
channels to tops and bottoms
of sheeting.
(C)
(C)
You will need:
(A) 2 x 1980 sheet
(C) 740 wide sheet with door jamb
(D) Pre-hinged door and sheet
(F) 1top and 1bottom Channel
(H) 2 x Door spacers
To hinge the door on the opposite
side - simply put the top channel on
the bottom and bottom on top.
Fix through top and
bottom of channels into
Door jamb & spacer
C.Outside: Fix channel at
corners and every 2nd rib
between and thru door
jambs and spacer
D.Inside: One fixing per
sheet at each end up thru
channel underside and thru
door jambs/spacer
E.Fit padbolt to the outside of
door.
Note: Higher side of channel
goes to inside of shed
If you feel confident that you do not need to read through these instructions, see page 2…. January 09
2: Back Wall
(A)
(F)
(E)
(G)
(A)
(E)
(B)
A. Join 2 & 1/2 Left (B) sheets together to give a slope at the top.
B. Cap sheeting with (E) 1815mm channels.
C. Fix the channels at the corners and every 2nd rib in between.
D. 4 fixings up underneath thru channel into pan of sheet
E. Perform the same again for the Right side.
4: End Walls Door Brace Kit
A. The Door braces can be fitted now or after
you have assembled your shed.
B. Tuck one end of the “Z” between the bot-
tom channel of the inside of the door and
the sheet. Do the same at the top overlap-
ping in the centre behind the padbolt. If you
have a locking “T” handle you will have to
run the “Z”s the opposite way to the dia-
gram.
C. Fix the “Z”s at the ends and in the centre to
the channel it is tucked under and thru the
overlap in the centre. 2 or 3 more rivets will
be required thru the door sheeting into the
“Z”, but they will need to be fixed through
from the outside of the
door for neater appear-
ance.
D. You may need to cut or
bend the flange at the bot-
tom and top of the “Z” if
it catches on door jamb
when opening or closing.
Padbolt
“Z” Brace
If you choose to vary from these instructions your warranty will be impaired. Pg 3
3: Roof
Inside
Channels will end
15 - 20mm short
at tops of end
walls and 10 - 15
at bottoms
(E)
You need:
2 x (F) Channels
5 x (A) Sheets
You need:
2 & 1/2 x (B) Sheets - Left
2 & 1/2 x (B) Sheets - Right
2 x (E) Channels per side
(F)
A. Join 5 (A) 1830mm sheets to-
gether with 2 fixings thru the
overlapping ribs making sure the
ends of the sheets are flush.
B. Cap sheeting with (F) channels
putting the cutouts top and bot-
tom same as the front wall.
C. Fix the channels thru the end
ribs and every 2nd rib between.
D. Make sure you put at least 1
fixing per sheet up thru the un-
derside of the channel into the
pan of the sheet.
(G)(E)
You need:
2 x (E) Channels
5 x (A) Sheets
2 x (G) “L”s
A. Join 5 (A) 1980mm sheets together
same as the back.
B. Cap sheeting with (E) 3745mm
channels.
C. Fix the channels every 2nd rib but
not the corners at this stage
D. Place the short flange of the “L” on
top of the rib at 1 end. Make sure
ends are flush with sheeting and
put 1fixing in the centre to hold
the “L”. Fix the corners thru the
channels and 1more between the
corner and the centre fixing. Per-
form the same at the other end. 5
fixings ea “L”