Hawk 220 User manual

Bushton Manufacturing
Maker Of
Hawk Woodworking Tools
MODEL 220 HAWK SCROLL SAW
OPERATORS MANUAL
READ THOROUGHLY BEFORE
OPERATING
MANUAL #HA 0987

CONTENTS •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• ~~~G~E~N~O
JTE~ 3
SAFETY :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: 3
SET-UP INSTRUCTIONS . 14
BLADE SELECTION . 4
MAINTENANCE ::::::: 4,5,6
SAWINC TECHNIQUES . 7
TROUBLE SHOOTING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
BLADE CHANCINC .' : 9, 10, 11
ADJUSTMENT AND REPAIR :::::::: 12, 13
PARTS BREAKDOWN . 15
SPECIFICATIONS .15
ACCESSORIES :::::::: .15
HOW TO ORDER PARTS .
You Can Reach Us
By Phone [phone]
By Fax [phone]
By Web [email protected]

TRAINING _
1. Read the operators manual careful/y. Be
thoroughly familiar with the operation of the
equipment.
2. Know where the controls are and how to oper-
ate them.
3. Wear safety goggles, ear protection and mask
in dusty operations.
4. Never allow unsupervised children to operate
equipment. Never allow adults to operate the
equipment without proper instruction.
5. Keep work area clear of other persons.
6. Maintain a clean uncluttered work area.
OPERATION SAFETY _
1. Never make any adjustments while the
machine is running.
2 . Disconnect electrical power supply before do-
ing any adjustments on the machine.
3. Remove all working tools and equipment be-
fore starting machine.
4. Wear proper clothing. Avoid loose fitted cloth-
ing, long sleeves, long hair, gloves, neck ties,
jewelry, watches, rings, ete.
5 . Do not operate an electrical device in a damp
or wet area to avoid electrical shock.
6. Maintain all safety guards.
7 . Do not operate machine while under the in-
fluence of medication, alcohol or drugs.
8. Never leave machine running unattended.
9. Don't overload machine. Follow operators in-
struction for safe operation.
1 O. Keep equipment in proper working order. Fol-
low recommended maintenance procedures
in the operators manual.
SETUP •••••••••••••••••
NOTE: Damage and/or missing parts are to be
reported to the transportation carrier.
Manufacturer is not responsible for ship-
ping damage.
This saw is shipped complete in,two cartons:
Carton 1 Carton 2
1. Saw 1. Legs
2. Operators manual 2. Glides (leg bottom)
3. Extra blades 3. Attaching hardware
1. Remove saw from shipping carton.
2. Check for damage.
3. Remove legs from carton.
4. Install one leg on each corner of the base us-
ing 1/4" carriage bolts and nuts. (The top of the
leg should be inside of the base.)
5. Install one 3/8/1 nut on each of the four glides.
6. Insert the glides up through the hole in the bot-
tom of the leg. (See Fig. 1)
7. Install the second 3/8" nut on the glide to
secure.
8. With all of the legs installed, position the saw
upright and adjust the nuts on the glides so
that each glide supports the saw.
FIG. 1 1/4" NUT
1/4" CARRIAGE ~
BOLT
3/8" NUT
BASE
LEG
3
GLIDE
NOTE: Optional adjustable 6" leg extension is
available. Part #6LE (See Accessories)

MAINTENANCE •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••
Tensioning Rod:
Add 1 to 2 drops of oil (light machine oil) to the
threads of the blade tensioning rod at the bot-
tom arm every 16 hours.
WAX
Ie •• " ~
.1{."I'o\}" ntDo"' ••••..·
OIL
FIG. 2
Table:
Keep the table work surface waxed (paraffin wax)
to prevent oxidation and allow easier movement
of the wood on the table surface.
earn Over Handle:
Apply wax (paraffin wax) to sliding surface of han-
dle to allow easier use.
WAX
SAWING TECHNIQUES ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••
Starting:
It is best to begin the cut at a point or corner because it
is difficult to smoothly blend in start and end points when start-
ing on a side. When cutting out circular shapes, saw into the
pattern line in a crosscutting (across the grain) direction. If the
starting point must be on a curve, make it an outside curve.
Burrs and knobs are easier to sand on an outside curve.
Sawing:
Feed the piece to be cut slowly into the saw blade while
maintaining downward pressure on the piece. Do not force
it into the blade-let the saw blade do the work. The speed
at which you feed the wood into the blade depends on the
type of wood you are cutting. Harder woods should be fed
more slowly than softer varieties. Feeding too quickly into the
blade may result in the blade burning the wood, bending or
twisting of the blade while sawing, a rough edge on the cut,
or the wood jumping on the table. Do not apply sideways pres-
sure on the blade. The downward pressure on the wood may
be applied by hand or the hold down foot.
Straight-line Cutting:
A small amount of set is formed on one side of most scroll
saw blades due to the manufacturing process used to produce
them Because of this, most blades do not cut straight or
parallel to the blade. The set causes them to cut a few degrees
more to one side than the other. To saw a straight line, the
work should be angled approximately 2 to 4 degrees to com-
pensate for this. This may be accomplished freehand or with
a guide board. The same technique should be used for straight-
line ripping. Be sure that the saw blade is following the layout
line and not the grain when ripping. (See Fig. 3)
4
FIG.3

Turns and Corners:
Scroll saws are capable of producing 360
0
turns
while cutting. The kerf left after a turn is approximately
1/2 the width of the saw blade. When you want to
cut a point, simply turn the piece the desired amount
while maintaining downward pressure on it. It is not
necessary to cut past the point and then restart, like
the normal procedure for a band saw. When cutting
curves, slowly follow the pattern line, turning the piece
as you go so the teeth are following the line. It may
be necessary to install a smaller blade when trying
to saw an extremely tight corner or radius to prevent
the wood from jumping on the table and to prevent
blade breakage. (See Fig. 4)
Bevel Sawing:
Bevel sawing is sawing with the table tilted, creat-
ing angled sides on the project. This sawing technique
may be used to create inlays, decorative letters, or
to put shapes into animals or other objects to be
carved. To bevel saw on the Hawk, loosen the table
tilt assembly knob and tilt the table to the desired
angle. (See Fig. 5)
Stack Cutting:
Stack cutting saves time by cutting two or more
pieces simultaneously. Simply stack the work pieces
on top of each other and draw the pattern on the
top piece. The pieces may be held together with dou-
ble faced tape or nails may be driven into the scrap
areas. Cut out the pattern on the top piece and dis-
assemble the stack. Be sure that the saw table is per-
fectly square with the blade before sawing. (SeeTable
Squaring Procedure) If it is not square, the pieces will
not be uniform in size. The stack should not exceed
2" in height. (See Fig. 6)
Sawing Inside Openings:
Sawing inside openings is a common and frequent-
ly used process on scroll saws. It is cutting an open-
ing on the inside of the work piece without cutting
through the piece. To do this, drill a small hole that
is large enough for the blade to pass through near
the pattern line of the inside openings. Release blade
tension by flipping the cam lock handle to the blade
change position. Remove top of blade from the top
blade holder (See Blade Changing). Insert the blade
through the drilled hole in the work piece. Install the
top of the saw blade back into the top blade
holder.Retension the blade by flipping the cam lock
handle to its original position. After the cut isfinished,
remove the blade from the opening. NOTE: Discon-
nect electrical power supply before making any ad-
justments to the machine. (See Fig. 7)
5

Compound Sawing:
The compound sawing process involves cutting on
two or more sides of the work piece. To do this, sim-
ply layout a pattern on two adjoining surfaces. These
patterns may be identical or different. After the pat-
terns are laid out, choose which surface to saw first.
It usually will not make any difference which surface
you choose, but consider the sequence before
choosing. The side that will give the least amount
of scrap pieces after it is cut should be first. After
the first side is cut, return the scrap pieces to their
original locations so that you have a prismatic shape
to cutout the second surface. It may be helpful to
nail, tape, or glue these scraps back on the piece.
(See Fig. 8)
Inlaying:
To create inlayed projects, select two pieces of
hardwood that contrast in color (walnut and oak
work well).The two must be exactly the same thick-
ness. It is recommended to use 1/4" thick material,
but any thickness up to 1 inch will work. Draw the
selected design on one of the pieces. Nail the two
pieces together with the pattern on the top face.
Be sure the nail s do not penetrate through the bot-
tom of the project as this will scratch the saw table FIG. 7
surface. Drill a very small pilot hole (#60 drill bit) in
a corner of the pattern. Slide a #2 blade through
the drilled hole and install it in the top blade holder FIG. 8
(be sure the pattern is still facing up). Tension the
blade and tilt the table approximately 3-1/2° (tilt the
table less for thicker material). Tilting to the left will
cause the bottom cutout to be the insert. The tilt
angle must be increased when using coarser blades.
Holding down firmly on your project, begin the cut.
Always saw in the same direction from start to fin-
ish. Saw around the pattern to the pilot hole and
remove the blade. Separate the pieces and press the
insert into the outer piece. Tap insert to set firmly.
Complete the project by cutting the outside shape
and sanding for finish with tung oil, varnish, or clear
epoxy.
6

TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE _
PROBLEM
Excessiveblade
breakage
POSSIBLE CAUSE
Improper blade size
for wood thickness
Cutting too tight a
radius for blade
size
POSSIBLE SOlUTION
Select proper blade
size. Increase
blade size for thick
wood. See Blade
Selection Chart.
Increase radius
size or reduce
blade size. Refer to
Turns and Corners in
Sawing Section.
Install blade
properly. See Blade
Installation
III/IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII IIIII II IIIIIIIII IIII
Improper blade
installation.
Blade burns the
wood Wrong blade size
Cutting too small
a radius
Improper feeding
Pushing sideways on
the blade
High resin content
in wood
Feeding too fast
Increase blade size
Refer to Blade Selec-
tion Chart.
Increase radius or
decrease blade size.
Refer to Turns and
Corners in Sawing
section.
Feed material at 4
0
right to left. Refer to
Straight Line Sawing in
Sawing section.
Feed straight so
not to bend blade left
or right. Refer to Saw-
ing section.
Saw against grain
when possible, use
new blade.
Reduce feed rate.
Refer to Sawing
section.
Increase blade
tension. Refer to
Blade Installation
IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII
Increase blade
tension. Refer to
Blade Installation
Procedures.
Improper blade size Increase blade size
See Blade Selection
Chart.
Slow feed rate. Refer
to Sawing section.
1/1 I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I II I I I II I I I I I I II II I I I I I I I I I I II I II I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I II II I I II I I III I II I I I I I I I I II I I I I II I
Improper blade
tension
Blades bend back
excessively or
twist while
Improper blade
tension
sawing
Feeding too fast
Blade cutting
too large a
radius
Blade too large
Blade tension low
Improper feeding
Board splintering
on the bottom Wrong blade size
Wood grain stringy
or knotty
Use smaller blade.
See Blade
Selection Chart.
Increase blade ten-
sion. See Blade Instal-
lation Procedures.
Turn board properly
See Turns and Corners
in Sawing section.
Use smaller blade.
See Blade Selection
Chart.
Use masking tape on
the bottom at the saw
line.
I I I I /////////////////////// I ////////////////// I I III I / I /////////////// I / I fill I / I I III/II/II I / 1// I III I / I I // 1/ I 1//
Rough cut on the
bottom Blade too large Use smaller blade.
See Blade Selection
Chart.
Increase blade ten-
sion. See Blade Instal-
lation in Saw
Procedure.
Use better quality
wood.
Feeding too fast Slow feed rate. See
Sawing section.
III/II I / I // I I fill I / 11/1/1 I I // I fill I II/II I/II/IIIII III I III/II II / II I I I // I ///1 ////1 / I / II I / I I I I I /1 I I II //1 I I I I / I I I I
Blade tension low
Poor quality wood
Blade doesn't
follow pattern
line
Improper feeding.
Feed at an angle
right to left of
approximately 4
0
straight into the blade
Operator error-Not
following line
Blade dull
Practice. See
Straight Line
Sawing section.
Practice.
Replace blade. See
Blade Changing
Procedure.
Increase blade size
See Blade Selection
Chart.
Blade too small
Improper blade
tension Increase tension.
See Blade Installation
Procedure.
Forcing material Reduce feed speed.
into the blade. See Sawing section.
IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII IIIIIII IIIIIIIIII IIII IIIII IIII III III III III III IIIII
Wood jumps on Improper hold down Adjust the hold
the table adjustment down to apply pres-
sure to the board.
Install blade
properly with teeth
pointing down. See
Blade Changing
Procedure.
Blade installed
upside down
Turning too tight of
a radius Increase radius
size. See Turns and
Corners in Sawing
section.
Hold board firmly
on the table,
especially when turn-
ing. Feed properly.
See Sawing and Saw-
ing Straight Line
sections.
Reduce feed speed
Feed properly. See
Sawing section.
Turn bracket 90° or
flip bracket over
Not using hold down
and not holding
board down firmly
Bellows not blowing
dust away from
work area
Sawing too fast
Pressing sideways
on the blade
Air leakage around
bracket
Hose kinked Straighten hose,
adjust hose routing
Tension belt (see pro-
cedure)
Tighten set screw. (Be
sure screw tightens on
flat side of shaft)
Blade stops moving Belt loose
while sawing
Pulley turning on
shaft (Loose set
screw in pulley)
7

PROCEDURE FOR
CHANGING THE BLADE _
Step 1:
Release the earn-over handle (HA-74) by flipping it over. I ow
place the "L" shaped quick change hold rod (HA-65) behind
the upper blade holder (FA-45) by inserting it with the short-
est end in the vertical position and the longer end facing
the rear of the saw in the open hole on the top of the up-
per arm. (Fig. 9) This is to help hold your upper blade holder
in a stationary position. Place the 9/64" T handle allen
wrench (ES-86) into the allen head cap screw on the right
side of the upper blade holder and loosen the allen head
cap screw. Remove any pieces left of the old blade. The
blade is now ready to be removed from the lower blade
holder.
Step 2:
Located in the V notch of the lower arm is a small, barrel
shaped blade holder (FA-46) (Fig. 10). Remove it by sliding
the blade holder forward and slightly turning towards the
front of the saw. This allows the blade to slide forward out
of the notch in the arm. When the blade is free from the
lower arm notch, slide it to the left or right to remove it
from the V notch. Now place the saw blade holder on end
in the oblong notch located on the base of your saw. Using
a 5/16" open end wrench on the flats of the saw blade holder
(FA-46), loosen the saw blade holder and remove the old
blade. Insert the new blade (teeth pointing down) between
the two halves of the barrel of the blade holder (FA-46). Be
sure to touch the bottom of the blade to the top of the
center screw of the blade holder.
Step 3:
You are now ready to put the blade and holder into the
V notch of the bottom arm. Holding the blade holder (FA-46)
in your hand feed the blade through the open slot in the
table top making sure the teeth are facing the front of the
saw. Slide the blade holder in front of the lower arm until
the blade will slide between the open notch in the lower
arm. Now slide the blade holder (FA-46) back into the V
notch of the lower arm. Pull the blade tightly into the V
notch by pulling it through the hole in the table top with
the thumb and first finger of your left hand. Place the 9/64"
T handle allen wrench (ES-86) into the allen head cap screw
in the upper blade holder (FA-45) and pull down the upper
arm with pressure applied by your right hand while hold-
ing the T handle allen wrench (ES-86). Lower the upper blade
holder over the top end of the blade until the top of the
blade rests on the center of the allen head cap screw and
is touching the roll pin in the middle of the holder. (Fig. 11)
Tighten the allen head cap screw securely with the T han-
dle allen wrench (ES-86).
Step 4:
Remove the 9/64" T handle allen wrench and the "L" shaped
quick change hold rod from behind the upper blade holder
assembly. Tension the blade with the earn-over handle
(HA-74) by flipping it back to it's original position To check
the blade tension pluck the blade like a guitar string. You
should get a crisp ping sound from the blade if it is ten-
sioned correctly. If you don't receive a crisp ping, loosen
the earn-over handle (HA-74) by flipping it back to the blade
change position and turn it like a knob, making sure the ten- 8
sian rod (the metal rod that holds the two arms together
at the rear) remain stationary while you turn the earn-over
Tighten only 1/2 turn at a time. Retension the earn-over by
flipping it back to the original position. Check tension.
FIG. 9
l•. ~
.'
BLADE
<.
FIG.
if- ~
r--
L.-.....o
10
~
END VIEW
WITH SECTION
REMOVED SO
BLADE MAY BE SEEN ALLEN HEAD
SCREW
t
SIDE VIEW WITH
BLADE I STALLED
FIG.11

REMOVAL OF ES 05 TABLE
1. Disconnect electrical power supply.
2. Remove saw blade from saw (see blade changing).
3. Loosen and remove the two 1/4" countersunk socket head
screws located at the front of the table. (fig. 12)
4. Loosen and remove the 1/4" bolt connecting the table to
the CD-13 rear table support. Remove the table from saw.
5. Reverse procedure for installation.
1/4/1 SOCKET HEAD SCREWS
/'
: .. /
FIG. 12
1. Disconnect from electrical power supply.
2. Place a small 90° square on the table with the back edge
of the beam against the blade.
3Inspect blade and square. The square should fit perfectly
against the blade with no openings between them. If there
is an opening, loosen the table tilt knob (ES-42) and adjust
the table tilt. (See Fig. 13)
4. When the square fits perfectly against the blade, tighten
the table tilt knob. (Fig. 14)
FIG, 13
FIG. 14
9

ADJUSTING HA 104 HOLD DOWN FOOT _
1. Release blade tension by flipping earn-over handle up.
2. Loosen knob at the top of hold down arm.
3. Rotate foot counter-clockwise to blade. Slide blade through
cutout at end of foot and center in foot.
4. Adjust to desired height.
5. Tighten threaded knob.
6. Tension blade.
TENSIONING THE DRIVE BELT _
1. Loosen the four 1/4" lock nuts on the motor mount bolts.
(Fig. 15) They need only be loosened enough to allow the
motor to slide in the adjustment slots in the base.
2. Slide the motor back until the belt is properly tensioned.
(Fig. 16)
3. While maintaining pressure on motor, tighten the motor
mount lock nuts.
4. Check belt tension.
FIG. 15
' ....
SLIDE
MOTOR THIS
DIRECTION
TO TIGHTEN
DRIVE BELT
CHANGING SPEEDS _
FIG. 16
1. Loosen the four lock nuts on the motor bolts and slide
the motor forward. Remove drive belt.
2.
Loosen allen head set screw in ES-71dual V-pulley. Remove
pulley and turn around (end for end) so the desired pul-
ley is aligned with the motor pulley. The larger pulley (in
diameter) is the slow speed pulley. (fig. 17)
Tighten set screw in ES-71dual V-pulley when pulleys are
aligned. Be sure the screws are tightened on the flat side
of the shaft.
Install the correct belt.
NOTE: The longer belt is the slow speed belt and should
be used with the larger diameter pulley. The
shorter belt should be used with the smaller
pulley.
Tension belt (see drive belt tensioning).
3.
4.
5.
10
FIG. 17